I made a tapered leg jig this weekend, it turned out great! I seen this video and it took me two days to watch it. I was very skeptical, I followed your instructions and even though it was nerve racking in the beginning, they turned out great! Thanks for sharing. I now have a new trick in my bag.
@@Tinker1950 Thanks for worrying about my spelling. I said "genius" (noun 1. exceptional intellectual or creative power or other natural ability. "she was a teacher of genius"), not "ingenious" (adjective 1. (of a person) clever, original, and inventive. "he was ingenious enough to overcome the limited budget"). You did miss an error, though. I wrote "Is" with a capital "I. Furthermore, your use of quotation marks is incorrect. Single quotes are used when used inside of another quote. And the period after "ingenious" should be placed inside the quote.
@@tinycuisine6544 Nope, the correct word is 'ingenious'. You have a worryingly low standard for that which you think worthy of the term 'genius'. But then, it's an online affectation, absolutely everything is described as such - you're simply following the trend of online idiocy - and trying too hard to justify it. The fact that you also find it necessary to couple your remark with a puerile and incorrect attempt at correcting my grammar rather than attend to my original point does effectively demonstrate the fundamental problem with the online world - vacuousness.
Love the videos, have learned a lot so thanks! Question… Why taper two sides only? Is that a style choice or the inability to apply pressure to the fence on the tapered side? Thanks in advance.
You're right, the finish the jointer leaves on the taper really is outstanding. I used it last year to cut tapered table legs, but instead of using marks on the jointer fence, I marked the length of my first cut with a stop block clamped to the jointer fence. Either way, the result is the same - a super easy taper! As usual, you put together a video clearly explaining the technique!
Holy smokes I love this. Never seen this done before. I know this video is two years old but I’m still working my way through all your older content since I just got into woodworking a year ago. Thanks for all the great content, and shoutout to Hans on the Green Suitors 😂
I have a 8” HH Jet and have done this method a few times now after seeing a video a year or so ago. It really is amazing how great they come off the tool. A bit of card scraper blending and they’re ready to go quickly. Great video!
Jason I built some similar tables years ago. I had heard of this technique but I was too lazy to investigate and used a tapering jig instead. I learned something to day
Great video! I just did this earlier this week for a pair of matching end tables. My only recommended additional step would be to add a stop block on the fence after the first cut to the midpoint line. It makes the following cuts (in my case - 15 more cuts to taper 2 sides each on 8 legs) MUCH more repeatable and accurate. Keep up the great content!
Thanks. I'm starting a set of small nested tables with legs that taper from 7/8" to 7/16' over 33". Because the stock is so narrow, I thought the traditional table saw jig method might be a problem. The method you demonstrate here looks like a much better method. Thank you.
Somehow, I missed what was shown to be made here but drooling over the tools like I used to do when watching Norm in those the New Yankee Workshop episodes.
Beautifully presented Jason! I really enjoy seeing new videos you post, as you always give a great explanation of the processes required to get to the final result. Keep up the great work! 👌🏻
you'd make a great teacher jason, you explain things perfectly. thanks for the video. forgive my ignorance as I've never made a table, how do you go about fitting the top of the table to the legs and railings
Great video. You have a gift for both woodworking and teaching! I will give this a shot. I may have to take smaller bites given my old jointer with blades. Thanks.
@@bentswoodworking I did it today and the legs came out spectacular. A little sanding will be needed to clean up a few spots but overall I couldn't be happier with how it turned out.
Thanks for the technique. Best video I’ve seen so far! Liked for the super wide shot. Allowed me to see the big picture with the two sided taper. P.S. I’m considering purchasing the 8” in lieu of the the six. You sold me on the Powermatic brand/quality. Beautiful cuts. Thanks for sharing
Happy to hear you found it useful. If you can swing the additional money for the 8” I definitely recommend it. If you buy the six you will wish you bought an 8”. Powermatic is outstanding quality and I always feel like I can depend on my tools.
Robert many of the rough lumber boards you’ll find are in the 6-8” range. If you do go with 6”, make sure you can remove the piece on the side of the jointer that would allow you to overhang the wider board ( >6” wide). There is a technique that allows you to then use that flat edge on a flat sled that you run through the planer flattening the opposite side. Once that is done, you can flip it to run the side originally run on the jointer t rid of the excess the jointer couldn’t reach.
Fantastic tip here. thank you. would think its a good idea to set your table to 5/16 first, and then you can run the taper through at 1/16 depth for a final pass?
I saw where you had the depth of cut set before you started. I usually only take that deep of a cut (maybe even less) and I never change the depth. Would you have any reservations with this technique if you had straight knives? 3/8" is a big bite from my perspective.
Bent's Woodworking I’ll check it out. The only other video I have seen of this technique is the mahogany and maple sofa table Jay Bates built. But he has a helical head jointer as well
Question... what if my starting leg is say 4" square and I want to get to a 1" tapered foot. How would you do this using a jointer (or can you?). The depth of cut would be too much for any jointer I am aware of...
This is a good idea for repeatable tapers. I however prefer to make the initial cut on the band saw and clean up the face with a hand plane. I feel like i get a better surface. I also get a bunch of little shop made shims that i use all over the place.
Another great video! Since you are working on your jointer and yours is able to do it I have to ask. Do you prefer doing rabbets on the jointer or table saw?
So once you flip it over and start the taper on other end, do you start applying pressure as 3" mark lines up with the fence starting point or does the geometry of the angle you're holding it at take care of it automatically? ...After 5 years, i finally figured out how to word that question... HAHA
I just saw that old video you referenced before youtube served me up your video. I do think it’s clever, but honestly isn’t it much faster and more efficient on a table saw with a tapering jig? I also wonder have you ever used your jointer to do a rebate?
I would do the depth of cut double check BEFORE marking the start of the cut position. Your relative position to the round cutter head would change if you had to adjust the infeed table.
You are a teacher. Great explanation and camera work. I understand you are just showing a different way to skin a cat. But, I believe a jig with a table saw is probably more accurate (pencil marks on fence), repeatable and safer. Your way is definitely not for the amateur. Thanks for the video. Your are awesome !!! Keep the vids coming.....
I have been looking for a bandsaw for last two days. I have planer, jointer and tons of other tools but not a band saw. I have $100 into the four legs and am going to try this. Am super nervous! Going for it though thanks for posting
I'll have to do the math but....what if you wanted a 4" flat section on the top of the leg? I normally use a tapering jig that I built from watching an old Yankee's Workshop show with Norm A many years ago. I do like this approach but I'll need to do some testing to figure out how it works with different lengths of flat sections at the top of the leg. I've built several different table and desks and depending on what the client was looking for, the flat section often changes from project to project. Good clear video though. Nice work.
I just figured it out in my shop. The important point is the halfway point. So, in your case, if you wanted 4" on top instead of 3" your center point would have been 7-1/2" instead of 8". Got it! Will definitely try this technique on my next project. Thx
Yes it doesn’t change anything when adjusting the size of your flat portion. The only thing that would change is your centerpoint of the taper which means you would just stop the cut at a different location. The taper it self is dictated off the finished size you want the bottom to be
You were right to feel nervous about this process. Yes is an option however in my opinion it is not the best option from a safety respect especially for a new woodworker. You have explained the process very well; however this would not be my first choice for making tapers. Check out Steve Latta Leg Tapering Jig article from Fine Woodworking Magazine. In my opinion this is a better option from a safety respect especially for the newer person to woodworking. I enjoy your presentations Very detailed and very clear.
So I'm considering using this technique, however, I have a jointer with straight blades... 3/8" seems drastic for the machine. Thoughts? Love your content, keep it up!
I wouldn’t be concerned. There is a older video here on RUclips that a guy does it with straight knives. It’s actually the video that I learned the technique from.
Nice table, Personally I’d use a tapering jig, can make one in a few minutes, only issue with a tapering jig is that you are limited by the depth of cut from your table saw
Thank you for posting. I watched Glen Huey's post years ago. I have several questions and observations. That initial cut, taking 3/8" off half the legs is a heavy cut and prone to tear out to those of us without helical heads. Try leaving the jointer set up at 3/8", put a start mark at half the cut on the fence, and make a pass with the leg in the same position you use for your second cut, top forward and bottom on the line. Then make the second cut with the leg in the same position and it will complete the taper. A second suggestion is to not try to taper right to the bottom of the apron. Allow 1/2" or maybe an inch for sanding and smoothing. I have done hundreds of legs like this. Much less prone to tear out. For those who fear variations in the legs, this is accurate enough to produce legs that are visually identical once they are installed. And you should try doing this with the planer and a sled, you can do four at a time. Then you can run them through a drum sander on the same sled.
I’m doing a taper now on a desk. This was perfect timing and excellent information. Thank you.
I made a tapered leg jig this weekend, it turned out great! I seen this video and it took me two days to watch it. I was very skeptical, I followed your instructions and even though it was nerve racking in the beginning, they turned out great! Thanks for sharing. I now have a new trick in my bag.
I never even used the jig.
Glad it helped!
I agree, your explanations are so clear and efficient. A true instructor
Glad it was helpful
Whoever came up with this Is a genius. Thanks for sharing
The spelling is 'ingenious'.
@@Tinker1950 Thanks for worrying about my spelling. I said "genius" (noun 1.
exceptional intellectual or creative power or other natural ability.
"she was a teacher of genius"), not "ingenious" (adjective 1.
(of a person) clever, original, and inventive.
"he was ingenious enough to overcome the limited budget"). You did miss an error, though. I wrote "Is" with a capital "I.
Furthermore, your use of quotation marks is incorrect. Single quotes are used when used inside of another quote. And the period after "ingenious" should be placed inside the quote.
@@tinycuisine6544 Nope, the correct word is 'ingenious'.
You have a worryingly low standard for that which you think worthy of the term 'genius'. But then, it's an online affectation, absolutely everything is described as such - you're simply following the trend of online idiocy - and trying too hard to justify it. The fact that you also find it necessary to couple your remark with a puerile and incorrect attempt at correcting my grammar rather than attend to my original point does effectively demonstrate the fundamental problem with the online world - vacuousness.
@@tinycuisine6544 Still wrong - it's ingenious.
Really nice technique. Love the video👍
Thanks brother
Love the videos, have learned a lot so thanks! Question… Why taper two sides only? Is that a style choice or the inability to apply pressure to the fence on the tapered side? Thanks in advance.
In this scenario I only wanted 2 sides tapered
I've seen another video on this and didn't get it, now I do, thank you!
Glad you found it helpful
Jason, the way you simplify and explain things gives anyone hope to becoming an excellent woodworker! Great job and video!
Well thank you. I’m glad you are enjoying the videos 👍
You're right, the finish the jointer leaves on the taper really is outstanding. I used it last year to cut tapered table legs, but instead of using marks on the jointer fence, I marked the length of my first cut with a stop block clamped to the jointer fence. Either way, the result is the same - a super easy taper! As usual, you put together a video clearly explaining the technique!
I like the stop block idea as well!! Thanks 👍👊🏼
Holy smokes I love this. Never seen this done before. I know this video is two years old but I’m still working my way through all your older content since I just got into woodworking a year ago. Thanks for all the great content, and shoutout to Hans on the Green Suitors 😂
🤣🤣 glad you found it helpful
Never seen this method used for leg tapers. Thanks for the showing us this method I will give it a try.
Definitely do!
I have a 8” HH Jet and have done this method a few times now after seeing a video a year or so ago. It really is amazing how great they come off the tool. A bit of card scraper blending and they’re ready to go quickly. Great video!
Thank you!!
Excellent video Jason! Simple, clear and that table looks great!
Thank you!
@@bentswoodworking I don't currently own a full size jointer, but just another reason to get one lol
It’s a good technique, I’ve been using my jointer for tapered legs for 20+ years. ☺️👍
Great video. You are an incredible teacher!
Thank you!
Excellent job teaching us.
Thank you!
Very precise description. Thank you. I had seen this process shown before but this was definitely better.
Thank you, happy you enjoyed it!
Wow. That was way easier than I thought it would be. That made it look super simple. Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to try this.
It’s very simple and really turns out great!
Jason I built some similar tables years ago. I had heard of this technique but I was too lazy to investigate and used a tapering jig instead. I learned something to day
That’s awesome!
Great video! I just did this earlier this week for a pair of matching end tables. My only recommended additional step would be to add a stop block on the fence after the first cut to the midpoint line. It makes the following cuts (in my case - 15 more cuts to taper 2 sides each on 8 legs) MUCH more repeatable and accurate. Keep up the great content!
Thank you. I like the stop block idea
I was thinking the same thing.
Great video! Thanks for sharing this technique!
You’re welcome
Great video, love it!!! Very clearly explained
Thank you!
Thank you for the info.
You are the best.
This weekends project.
Hey Jason, this is a great technic, thanks so much for this tutorial.
You’re very welcome
Thanks. I'm starting a set of small nested tables with legs that taper from 7/8" to 7/16' over 33". Because the stock is so narrow, I thought the traditional table saw jig method might be a problem. The method you demonstrate here looks like a much better method. Thank you.
Glad to help
Great lesson Jason! Thank You! ~ Bill
Thank you!
I've seen this before but I needed a reminder and refresher. Thanks Jason.
Glad you found it helpful!
Somehow, I missed what was shown to be made here but drooling over the tools like I used to do when watching Norm in those the New Yankee Workshop episodes.
Very clever and well explained.
Thank you
This is freaking awesome... thanks for the tip!
You’re very welcome!
Clever way to do that. Thanks for explaining this so clearly.
You’re very welcome
Great video and explanation Thank you
You’re welcome
Thanks. Nice job, clear and concise vid and sweeet jointer.
That 8" powermatic has always been the envy of me
Thank you. Yes, this jointer has been a great investment
Thanks for this great video! I was looking for a clean and reapeatable way to make a taper and this technique worked really well.
Great job Jason! That @powermatic helical head is a smooth cutting machine!
Thanks buddy!
Exceptional video and demonstration. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Great video I will try this technique when I make my next table. Thank you !
Awesome!!
This is awesome!
Thanks for sharing this awesome technique Jason. Cant wait to see some finish on this table.
I can’t wait to have it done 👍
Beautifully presented Jason! I really enjoy seeing new videos you post, as you always give a great explanation of the processes required to get to the final result. Keep up the great work! 👌🏻
Thank you 😊
first for me this method thanks for sharing
You’re welcome
Brother this is amazing. Thank you for sharing. I have now subscribed, liked, and commented because this is great information!!
Thank you. I happy to hear you enjoyed it
Thanks for sharing, brilliant idea
You’re welcome
you'd make a great teacher jason, you explain things perfectly. thanks for the video.
forgive my ignorance as I've never made a table, how do you go about fitting the top of the table to the legs and railings
Thank you! For the table assembly I used dominos.
Definitely going to try this technique for the next table I build.
Awesome!
Great video. You have a gift for both woodworking and teaching! I will give this a shot. I may have to take smaller bites given my old jointer with blades. Thanks.
Thank you so much
Great technique!
Works so well!!
That was nuts, nice tip
Thanks!!
Great video! Thanks.
Thank you!
Working on my first table. I was going to attempt a table saw jig but this seems a lot simpler. Thanks for the clear step by step!
You’re welcome!
@@bentswoodworking I did it today and the legs came out spectacular. A little sanding will be needed to clean up a few spots but overall I couldn't be happier with how it turned out.
@@age234 that’s great!!
Great Video certainly learned something today. I will be trying this out just hope my Jointer will cope
It’s now my favorite way to do it
That is pretty darn cool!
👍👍
Awsome video.. I need to step my game up😂😂😂
Thanks! 😉
Brilliant! About to go out and try it!
Do it! Let me know how it goes!!
thank you
You’re welcome!
Does the edge of the leg without the taper face the outside of the corner of the table?
That’s what I did
Awesomely scary!! Love it!!
I was nervous at first but after the first cut I was good to go 🙂
Saved. That seems scary, but looked fine when you made the cut. Very cool technique.
Nice! Give it a try sometime
Would this work with 4 sided tapers?
Very cool
👍
Holy crap, it worked.
Lol it works great
Man. If I took a cut that deep with my jointer I think it would probably burst into flames and run screaming from the shop.
😂
Thanks for the technique. Best video I’ve seen so far! Liked for the super wide shot. Allowed me to see the big picture with the two sided taper.
P.S. I’m considering purchasing the 8” in lieu of the the six. You sold me on the Powermatic brand/quality. Beautiful cuts. Thanks for sharing
Happy to hear you found it useful. If you can swing the additional money for the 8” I definitely recommend it. If you buy the six you will wish you bought an 8”. Powermatic is outstanding quality and I always feel like I can depend on my tools.
Thanks for that tip. With that, I’m curious what applications you find the 8” most beneficial for vs. the six?
Thanks 👍
Robert many of the rough lumber boards you’ll find are in the 6-8” range. If you do go with 6”, make sure you can remove the piece on the side of the jointer that would allow you to overhang the wider board ( >6” wide). There is a technique that allows you to then use that flat edge on a flat sled that you run through the planer flattening the opposite side. Once that is done, you can flip it to run the side originally run on the jointer t rid of the excess the jointer couldn’t reach.
If you wanted even tapers all the way around, would that work? Just do 1/4 per pass instead of half?
Very nice!
Thank you!
I keep watching this video. Would you consider this method for legs from 4x4 stock?
I don’t see why not. The legs I made for my table were 3.25 x 3.25
Fantastic tip here. thank you. would think its a good idea to set your table to 5/16 first, and then you can run the taper through at 1/16 depth for a final pass?
Good question but I haven’t done it so I can’t say unfortunately
@@bentswoodworking Well I just tried this out exactly the way you showed, and it worked as good as in your video, so my suggestion was probably moot
That's magic!
👍👍
That’s awesome!
👍
Good video bud!
Thanks brother
Thank you for the great video I have to try that. The best part for me is no sanding the saw marks that's always a plus.
You’re welcome!!
Sweet!
👍
This is great but the scribed line should be made after checking the depth right?
Scribed line?
@@bentswoodworking The line you put on jointer as the stop must be moved if you adjust the depth I think?
Oh, yes. Once you set your depth, you would then scrub the line to determine the location that the cutter head just begins to cut
Great video Jason, do you suppose you could cut at half that depth and run the board through twice to achieve the same results?
I’m not sir if it would work the same but I haven’t tried it.
Ok this is absolute genius!!!
Luckily I have a jointer with some oomph to hog off that much wood
Is there a multiple pass method?
Great idea and well explained! 👍 but can I do this with a 6’’ table top jointer? Will the jointer kick me in the balls for trying to cut that deep?
So cool. Satisfying video. Although unless you have that ridiculously expensive machine you could never re-create this so "easily" lol
Not true. The video that I watched to learn this technique did the same depth with a straight knifed jointer
I saw where you had the depth of cut set before you started. I usually only take that deep of a cut (maybe even less) and I never change the depth. Would you have any reservations with this technique if you had straight knives? 3/8" is a big bite from my perspective.
No, if you take a look at the video I linked in the description, which is where I learned this technique, he uses straight knives.
Bent's Woodworking I’ll check it out. The only other video I have seen of this technique is the mahogany and maple sofa table Jay Bates built. But he has a helical head jointer as well
Nice!
Thank you! 👍
Question... what if my starting leg is say 4" square and I want to get to a 1" tapered foot. How would you do this using a jointer (or can you?). The depth of cut would be too much for any jointer I am aware of...
I’m not sure as I have never tried myself
This is a good idea for repeatable tapers. I however prefer to make the initial cut on the band saw and clean up the face with a hand plane. I feel like i get a better surface. I also get a bunch of little shop made shims that i use all over the place.
Good technique and you get the shims out of it. 👍
Another great video! Since you are working on your jointer and yours is able to do it I have to ask. Do you prefer doing rabbets on the jointer or table saw?
I have actually never done them on the jointer. Only table saw and router
@@bentswoodworking thank you for replying. Keep making great videos
So sweet dude
👊🏼👊🏼
So once you flip it over and start the taper on other end, do you start applying pressure as 3" mark lines up with the fence starting point or does the geometry of the angle you're holding it at take care of it automatically? ...After 5 years, i finally figured out how to word that question... HAHA
I just saw that old video you referenced before youtube served me up your video. I do think it’s clever, but honestly isn’t it much faster and more efficient on a table saw with a tapering jig? I also wonder have you ever used your jointer to do a rebate?
This is just another one of the many techniques to accomplish a task. And no, I have not used it for a rabbet
I would do the depth of cut double check BEFORE marking the start of the cut position. Your relative position to the round cutter head would change if you had to adjust the infeed table.
Great tip. Got one for sweaty palms, too?
talc
Unfortunately no
Wow
If you have any questions about the video be sure to leave them below!
You are a teacher. Great explanation and camera work. I understand you are just showing a different way to skin a cat. But, I believe a jig with a table saw is probably more accurate (pencil marks on fence), repeatable and safer. Your way is definitely not for the amateur. Thanks for the video. Your are awesome !!! Keep the vids coming.....
Thanks. This is definitely my preferred way. I would only use a table saw if I needed to make a drastic taper now.
I have been looking for a bandsaw for last two days. I have planer, jointer and tons of other tools but not a band saw. I have $100 into the four legs and am going to try this. Am super nervous! Going for it though thanks for posting
Just finished and worked perfectly!! Definitely would prefer to have a helical set to taking a huge cut a lam 4x4 but came out amazing. Thank you !!
You’re welcome!!
@@watchguy79 did you do it with straight blades or a HH?
I did with straight blades. Want to get a helical head soon. It worked great sorry for the late reply
I'll have to do the math but....what if you wanted a 4" flat section on the top of the leg? I normally use a tapering jig that I built from watching an old Yankee's Workshop show with Norm A many years ago. I do like this approach but I'll need to do some testing to figure out how it works with different lengths of flat sections at the top of the leg. I've built several different table and desks and depending on what the client was looking for, the flat section often changes from project to project. Good clear video though. Nice work.
I just figured it out in my shop. The important point is the halfway point. So, in your case, if you wanted 4" on top instead of 3" your center point would have been 7-1/2" instead of 8". Got it! Will definitely try this technique on my next project. Thx
Yes it doesn’t change anything when adjusting the size of your flat portion. The only thing that would change is your centerpoint of the taper which means you would just stop the cut at a different location. The taper it self is dictated off the finished size you want the bottom to be
Wow!! What kind of sorcery is this?
You were right to feel nervous about this process. Yes is an option however in my opinion it is not the best option from a safety respect especially for a new woodworker. You have explained the process very well; however this would not be my first choice for making tapers. Check out Steve Latta Leg Tapering Jig article from Fine Woodworking Magazine. In my opinion this is a better option from a safety respect especially for the newer person to woodworking. I enjoy your presentations Very detailed and very clear.
Thank you
So I'm considering using this technique, however, I have a jointer with straight blades... 3/8" seems drastic for the machine. Thoughts? Love your content, keep it up!
I wouldn’t be concerned. There is a older video here on RUclips that a guy does it with straight knives. It’s actually the video that I learned the technique from.
@@bentswoodworking thanks for the motivation. I've purchased your table plans... I'll let you know!
Thank you so much!!!! Let me know if you have any questions
nice job. but looks more dangerous and more steps involved, then using a taper jig on the table saw?
Keep in mind that the blade guard wouldn’t be removed in your own shop bit was just for visibility purposes
Nice table, Personally I’d use a tapering jig, can make one in a few minutes, only issue with a tapering jig is that you are limited by the depth of cut from your table saw
That’s the main reason why I was looking for another technique. I really enjoyed using the jointer.
I love your apron. Who made it?
I’m a new subscriber and really like your content!
-Ben
My apron is from www.leatherbydragonfly.com
Thank you for posting. I watched Glen Huey's post years ago. I have several questions and observations. That initial cut, taking 3/8" off half the legs is a heavy cut and prone to tear out to those of us without helical heads. Try leaving the jointer set up at 3/8", put a start mark at half the cut on the fence, and make a pass with the leg in the same position you use for your second cut, top forward and bottom on the line. Then make the second cut with the leg in the same position and it will complete the taper. A second suggestion is to not try to taper right to the bottom of the apron. Allow 1/2" or maybe an inch for sanding and smoothing. I have done hundreds of legs like this. Much less prone to tear out. For those who fear variations in the legs, this is accurate enough to produce legs that are visually identical once they are installed. And you should try doing this with the planer and a sled, you can do four at a time. Then you can run them through a drum sander on the same sled.
Interesting idea with using a planer. Another idea I wouldn’t have considered.
I bet a rough pass on the bandsaw would make the planer sled step go by quickly!
This is some witchcraft right here! 😂 What a cool technique! Thanks for the great video, dude. 👍🏻
Thank you