I second that Lucas. I've been looking for a while for some information about maximising build strength and this covered everything relating to design strength in just 11 minutes with perfect clarity. There are other considerations like material(s), printing temp and post processing (like epoxy or acetone vapour etc.) but this is really the entire remaining area that no-one else seems to have covered though. Excellent! :-)
Tempering a print in the oven is another post processing trick to be aware of, although you have to plan for the shrinkage. Thomas Sanladerer touches on this in one of his strength testing vids...
HI Christoph, This is hands down the best and most useful tutorial on mechanical design and 3D printing I have ever seen. I believe this should be a template on how to teach in every area. Kudos....
I like the modular approach taken in designing the mechanism in this tutorial -- easy to swap components, for either upgrading or repairing purposes. Thanks for sharing!
I Hate this thing not the Video but the Vise because I tried to print this two Times and both times it doesn't work and All this shit cost me nearly 10€! Only as information, I've printed this on my Creality Ender 5, which can print relatively good!
I managed to explode your vise with some of my abusive use, and god damn it went out with a bang :P Surprisingly it was one of the base halves that went first - It was just torn apart right across the middle section, where it should be really strong. I imagine there was quite a lot of force involved in this failure, but I'm very surprised the screws didn't fail first.
Good point. It's based on experience with my 3d-printers. For a tight fit between two 3d-printed parts I'm designing a gap of 0.15mm, for a loose fit like a bearing I'm designing a gap of 0.25mm (or more). The accuracy variation of 3d-printers out in the field is still huge, but compared with the past, things got already much better..
Fully agreed. Just trial and error. And the tolerances you measure are a good guideline; personally I always use 0.15 - 0.2 mm for a tight fit and also around 0.25mm for a loose fit. Depending on the application. If I want a really smooth loose fit then I generally use 0 to 0.1mm spacing and then finish the hole / part with a drill / sanding paper.
I have found that many variables exist for this. For instance infill percentage will make hole sizes change. At 70% infill I use 5.4mm for 5mm holes and it is a close fit (not a tight fit) but at 20% infill they became a loose fit and was no longer good as a bearing holder as the bearing just slipped out (this was a larger hole of course). Now I changed my nozzle size in S3D from auto (0.42mm) to the actual size (0.35mm) and had to increase my flow rate from 1.01 to 1.02 and all of my sizing had to have an extra 0.1-0.15 added to be the same size. Infill, flow rate, infill pattern, and wall layer count (I use 6 so I can drill out a hole on my drill press if needed) all effect hole sizes. Oh, and lets not forget shrinkage too (look up the amount of normal shrinkage for your material type you are printing in on the net) that must be accounted for and it changes depending on room temp + rh (reason Stratasys uses a heated chamber to help control this variable).
Sorry if this is a dumb question: but by a gap of eg .25mm for a loose fit, do you refer to .25mm difference in the radius (--> on both sides, so .5mm less diameter for a round object that should have a loose fit in a hole) or in the diameter? I ask because I'm in the process of properly fine-tuning my diy printer, while actually having access to my brother's ultimaker: with the ultimaker, .25mm gap over the diameter would currently be far from a loose fit. But maybe I have just been using bad slicer settings ... What should I aim for with my printer?
Yes, for a loose fit, the diameter of two objects needs to be is 2*0.25mm different. You also need to consider how accurate the two parts are. E.g. if you design a hole for a ball-bearing: because a BB is very accurate, a gap of 0.125mm is sufficient for a loose fit (half of 0.25).
Fantastic! I love that you explain the thinking behind your design, instead of just showing us the design. That is the best teaching -- now, I can follow you into other domains and apply this knowledge on other projects, because you've taught me the "why" behind your design. I wish this style was common among maker videos. But, alas, it is not. Thank you for being such a wonderful outlier.
I think this is a bit misleading, however. When printing vertically, you're not using 100% infill, so there's not as much material "available" holding the lasers together. Would love to see a 10x10x100 with 100% vertically.
I'm currently printing this vise out and thought I should share my experience so far. I first printed the sliding piece with the two screws. The bottom (face) of it had some layers that warped slightly. I probably could have done the first few layers at a lower temperature but with a little sanding, it'll work perfectly fine. Also had some messy parts on the screws but they were easy to clean up. I printed the gears second and I'm amazed how well they came out. They mesh together perfectly straight off the printer. Only needed to clean up the threads very slightly. The two halves of the base are printing now (60% so far) but they look absolutely fantastic. That's as far as I've gotten but I don't forsee any problems in finishing a working vise. Anyway, thanks for uploading the files to this! It's going to come in extremely handy.
I thoroughly enjoyed watching this video, printing the parts and putting the vise together! I have one question: The gears have some undesirable play and they tend to get unsynchronized, resulting in de vise going offset. Also, the gears slip if I try to clamp something in the vise. Everything else fits perfectly. Is there any way to fix this?
Maybe you should've switch the places of the jaw plates. The design would be stronger. The C-bracket it's needed more on the opposite side where can hold better the 2 parts of the base. :) Great design by the way. I am assembling it right now. Still hot from the printer:)
Like wood, what would be the recommended parameters; maximum pressures, etc.? (also fm,k: E0,mean: ρmean: ρk: ft;0;k: ft;90;k: fc;0;k: fc;90;k: fv;k: E0,05: E90,mean: Gmean: G0,05) usw. Wood is most easy to engineer.
Outstanding work, outstanding design. I'm printing this now! I do a lot of PCB soldering, and this awesome vice is precisely what I need, I'm tired of having to use blue painters tape to tape my work to the bench to hold it steady! Great work man, subbed!
Actually it's not thaaat well designed. Tolerances are pretty tight even at spots where it's absolutely not needed. I have quite a few problems due to needless tight fittings and a not 1000€-printer. I think I'll use the basic design ideas and make it a much easier to print version.
The 'spruce' wood comparison it very interesting. Do anybody have a video to compare filament composition (PC, ABS, PLA), % filling VS Wood, acrylic, etc. ?
Hide threaded rod for protection, the threaded rods usually are hidden in the handle. static.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/920x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/7/475090_xl.jpg
I agree, Christoph if you are not a Teacher please think to become it!! This is the right way for any Engineer to think and explain. Straight to important things, use a simple language so anybody can understand, don't rush, don't waste time for unimportant though, be precise as much as you can but always remember the final scope of the object you are making. PLease make more videos like this and open a school! Roberto
I was hoping that you'd have also included a wood bar that was cut against the grain rather than the grain going through the length of the bar. I believe that most wood is far more anisotropic than 3D printed plastic. Possible exceptions would be things like Mulberry wood and the type that Indians used for bows (Osage Orange?) due to the grain structure not being straight-line as in most other wood. Anyway, I'm pretty sure that a wood bar with the grains aligned in the short dimension would have snapped at a tiny fraction of the pressure required to snap the similarly aligned printed plastic. Still, it'd be interesting to have it tested for confirmation. If this _is_ the case, it might lay to rest much of the concern over printed material anisotropy. One other thing that IMO could have a dramatic effect on the "angular strength" of things like the vice jaws would be for printer software (firmware?) that would have the lines curve around each corner rather than printing "raster style" with the long part of the piece having long runs of plastic, but the short parts having short runs. I am assuming this is how the printers operate. (I have built a printer my son purchased but we have not yet fired it up other than to verify that the motors work and the head will melt -- and eject -- plastic filament.)
AWESOME video. You were so thorough, it blew me away! By the end, I was thinking, "Huh. I feel like this is the best possible design for this sort of tool!" Thank you!
It is a very nice presentation and I like all your videos. Regarding printing the screw, did you consider putting a flat by removing a portion of the thread with a plane parallel to the axis, on one side only to touch the build plate? You will not have a complete thread around 360 degrees on the screw but the nut will have a thread all the way around. Thus, the motion will be continuous. This will allow a higher tensile load capacity because of the continuous fiber direction as you illustrated.
It probably doesn't matter. I made the 2 pushing gears larger, so they can also be used like a handle and moved directly by hand. If they are smaller, they "disappear" behind the base frame, and accessing them by finger gets more difficult. Maybe this secondary feature is obsolete with a larger center gear.
Hi Christoph, I want you know that I am having a Snapmaker 2.0 A350 delivered Monday, and your vise is the first thing I'll print. The reason is, beyond its usefulness, you are a very intelligent, giving, and admirable person. I really appreciate what you're doing. Thank you. Best, Tim.
Thanks for the excellent video. This video made me realise why my last print had a failed clip joint. It was a complicated LED Strip Light design in 5 parts with rotating joints and wall bracket. The clips I designed that 'should have' slipped into place and locked, just broke as they didn't have enough strength, while the small test part I printed first worked well. They were aligned differently during printing, so had different weak points! Thanks for providing your vice design as well, as it will be very useful. :)
I don't understand what do you mean by saying printed horizontally or printed vertically. In your drawings there is no note whether I am looking at the thing from the top or from the side. Sorry, just trying to understand.
I very much liked your explanation of the forces acting upon the print layers, and the correct way to orientate the part on the print bed. A square thread would make the rods much stronger (although probably not needed to hold a pcb)😊 Thank you for sharing
This is the most functional vise I ever seen on thingiverse, and so far the only robust one. The explanation is very clear. Can't understand what are those thumbs down....if don't understand the mechanics..don't vote....
Still waiting a 3d printed hand watch ;-). Even if it is going to be 80 mm in diameter. That thing will be very cool. I would try to make one myself but I don't have a 3d printer :-)
I'm seeing this video just as I'm printing a mechanical part... and realized that the layers are in fact not orientated correctly in order to have optimal strength! Thankfully the part won't suffer any great strain, though. Thanks for the well-made tutorial!
Very good video! Good explanations and a nicely designed vice! i am very interested in "upgrades" like annealing the base for even better layer-adhesion, jaws printed from flexible material and reinforcement with screws (even though the last might be overkill as your all-3d-printed design seems more than strong enough for the application!) Thanks for uploading the STL-files to thingiverse :)
Hi Chris, excellent video !!! I tried to print the vise but the two gears are too tight and do not rotate properly on the threaded bars. Do you think I can scale the gears up a bit to solve the problem ?
Great design and excellent explanation, Christoph! Very often, the "why" is more important than the "what".. you've really nailed it :) Thanks for making the STLs openly available!!
this is great experiment but you should have told us parameters of your testing tubes.. infill and other stuff just to know the ground parameters for given results..
Well done. One thing that I did on the screw on a bench vise that I did was to leave the center hollow so that after printing I could insert a threaded rod. One end has an embedded nut to thread into and the other I use a nylock nut. Once tightened down I can apply considerable force without damaging the printed threads.
I would suggest using a larger gear in the center and 2 small gears for the sides as that would significantly increase the speed of the vice. Great tutorial though!
very well thought and good told video. i really enjoyed it. the coloring does make it look like a toy, but a vice like this really helpful in the shop.
Thank you for this wonderful video, this is exactly what I and many others need! Could you make a video about your ideas/experience with joining two printed parts? For example with bolts or printed screws. And maybe general design of printed screws would be insightful!
Thank you. I bought a Creality Ender 3v2 a feww days ago and it is currently making this vice for my pillar drill. It is a lovely piece of work, and should be finnished in a day or so.
As a Mechanical engineer student and a 3d printer owner, this video is just clear as glass. Great Work.
I second that Lucas. I've been looking for a while for some information about maximising build strength and this covered everything relating to design strength in just 11 minutes with perfect clarity.
There are other considerations like material(s), printing temp and post processing (like epoxy or acetone vapour etc.) but this is really the entire remaining area that no-one else seems to have covered though.
Excellent! :-)
Tempering a print in the oven is another post processing trick to be aware of, although you have to plan for the shrinkage. Thomas Sanladerer touches on this in one of his strength testing vids...
May I suggest replacing the guiding hole with a protruding ball or a line? I hate places that germs can hide.
HI Christoph, This is hands down the best and most useful tutorial on mechanical design and 3D printing I have ever seen. I believe this should be a template on how to teach in every area. Kudos....
Spruce Wood (Not printed)
Amazing example of designing for 3D printing
I like the modular approach taken in designing the mechanism in this tutorial -- easy to swap components, for either upgrading or repairing purposes. Thanks for sharing!
You are right - he is amazing. You can also see his work here: www.makesea.com/web/claimer
I Hate this thing not the Video but the Vise because I tried to print this two Times and both times it doesn't work and
All this shit cost me nearly 10€!
Only as information, I've printed this on my Creality Ender 5, which can print relatively good!
I managed to explode your vise with some of my abusive use, and god damn it went out with a bang :P
Surprisingly it was one of the base halves that went first - It was just torn apart right across the middle section, where it should be really strong.
I imagine there was quite a lot of force involved in this failure, but I'm very surprised the screws didn't fail first.
How do you know what tolerances to use when designing a part?
Good point. It's based on experience with my 3d-printers. For a tight fit between two 3d-printed parts I'm designing a gap of 0.15mm, for a loose fit like a bearing I'm designing a gap of 0.25mm (or more). The accuracy variation of 3d-printers out in the field is still huge, but compared with the past, things got already much better..
Fully agreed. Just trial and error. And the tolerances you measure are a good guideline; personally I always use 0.15 - 0.2 mm for a tight fit and also around 0.25mm for a loose fit. Depending on the application. If I want a really smooth loose fit then I generally use 0 to 0.1mm spacing and then finish the hole / part with a drill / sanding paper.
I have found that many variables exist for this. For instance infill percentage will make hole sizes change. At 70% infill I use 5.4mm for 5mm holes and it is a close fit (not a tight fit) but at 20% infill they became a loose fit and was no longer good as a bearing holder as the bearing just slipped out (this was a larger hole of course). Now I changed my nozzle size in S3D from auto (0.42mm) to the actual size (0.35mm) and had to increase my flow rate from 1.01 to 1.02 and all of my sizing had to have an extra 0.1-0.15 added to be the same size.
Infill, flow rate, infill pattern, and wall layer count (I use 6 so I can drill out a hole on my drill press if needed) all effect hole sizes. Oh, and lets not forget shrinkage too (look up the amount of normal shrinkage for your material type you are printing in on the net) that must be accounted for and it changes depending on room temp + rh (reason Stratasys uses a heated chamber to help control this variable).
Sorry if this is a dumb question: but by a gap of eg .25mm for a loose fit, do you refer to .25mm difference in the radius (--> on both sides, so .5mm less diameter for a round object that should have a loose fit in a hole) or in the diameter? I ask because I'm in the process of properly fine-tuning my diy printer, while actually having access to my brother's ultimaker: with the ultimaker, .25mm gap over the diameter would currently be far from a loose fit. But maybe I have just been using bad slicer settings ... What should I aim for with my printer?
Yes, for a loose fit, the diameter of two objects needs to be is 2*0.25mm different. You also need to consider how accurate the two parts are. E.g. if you design a hole for a ball-bearing: because a BB is very accurate, a gap of 0.125mm is sufficient for a loose fit (half of 0.25).
this is so cool.
You are a great man. All that effort designing and making, an let us download the files for free, kudos for you. Brillant design. You are the best.
I love this video! It's great how you talk about the theory and then build an actual vice. Nice design!
Beautiful design and very good video. I LOVE the "click" when your pieces push together!
That is absolutely beautiful work! This is a very useful clamp that is a real reflection of the craftsmanship you have displayed. Well done!
Great Video, thank you. It would be great to see how you build the device in Fusion360.
Fantastic! I love that you explain the thinking behind your design, instead of just showing us the design. That is the best teaching -- now, I can follow you into other domains and apply this knowledge on other projects, because you've taught me the "why" behind your design. I wish this style was common among maker videos. But, alas, it is not. Thank you for being such a wonderful outlier.
Masterful. Thank you for sharing your research! This is brilliant. :-)
Great model. I added a little Super Lube to the screws and I had to file the plate shown at 9:34 a little too make it fit.
Great design!
I think this is a bit misleading, however. When printing vertically, you're not using 100% infill, so there's not as much material "available" holding the lasers together. Would love to see a 10x10x100 with 100% vertically.
I'm currently printing this vise out and thought I should share my experience so far. I first printed the sliding piece with the two screws. The bottom (face) of it had some layers that warped slightly. I probably could have done the first few layers at a lower temperature but with a little sanding, it'll work perfectly fine. Also had some messy parts on the screws but they were easy to clean up.
I printed the gears second and I'm amazed how well they came out. They mesh together perfectly straight off the printer. Only needed to clean up the threads very slightly.
The two halves of the base are printing now (60% so far) but they look absolutely fantastic.
That's as far as I've gotten but I don't forsee any problems in finishing a working vise.
Anyway, thanks for uploading the files to this! It's going to come in extremely handy.
I thoroughly enjoyed watching this video, printing the parts and putting the vise together!
I have one question:
The gears have some undesirable play and they tend to get unsynchronized, resulting in de vise going offset.
Also, the gears slip if I try to clamp something in the vise.
Everything else fits perfectly.
Is there any way to fix this?
Maybe you should've switch the places of the jaw plates. The design would be stronger. The C-bracket it's needed more on the opposite side where can hold better the 2 parts of the base. :) Great design by the way. I am assembling it right now. Still hot from the printer:)
Wow .. kudos for a solid design and great planning process :)
Like wood, what would be the recommended parameters; maximum pressures, etc.?
(also fm,k: E0,mean: ρmean: ρk: ft;0;k: ft;90;k: fc;0;k: fc;90;k: fv;k: E0,05: E90,mean: Gmean: G0,05) usw.
Wood is most easy to engineer.
only flaw i see is there is no table clamp.the vise is light
Outstanding work, outstanding design. I'm printing this now! I do a lot of PCB soldering, and this awesome vice is precisely what I need, I'm tired of having to use blue painters tape to tape my work to the bench to hold it steady! Great work man, subbed!
Actually it's not thaaat well designed. Tolerances are pretty tight even at spots where it's absolutely not needed. I have quite a few problems due to needless tight fittings and a not 1000€-printer.
I think I'll use the basic design ideas and make it a much easier to print version.
Thank you for making the file directly available to Fusion 360. That make it SO easy to work with!
Thanks. It was a very good explanation. However, your video made me curious about clip design.
Great video. You are the first one i see that actually did some tests on the stability with pressure. Very nice.
How much force can this vise handle? I know he mentions the point of failure, but I need to know the vise's total grip force.
really great design, fantastic work! thanks for talking us through it.
thanks for sharing it ! great explanation as well ! I'll try to print it and using it...
How do you stop the screw shafts from breaking? This is before placing the screw shaft into the vice.
Keşke herkes sizin gibi cömert olsa. Teşekkürler.
This vise would be so awesome if it also had a desk clamp modification... impressive nonetheless!
Thank you for this awesome design and video!
The 'spruce' wood comparison it very interesting. Do anybody have a video to compare filament composition (PC, ABS, PLA), % filling VS Wood, acrylic, etc. ?
I've sold just over my 500th one of these. I re-drew it on fusion360.
Awesome, let me share your great work!
Big like and new subscriber.
Hide threaded rod for protection, the threaded rods usually are hidden in the handle.
static.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/920x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/7/475090_xl.jpg
I agree, Christoph if you are not a Teacher please think to become it!! This is the right way for any Engineer to think and explain. Straight to important things, use a simple language so anybody can understand, don't rush, don't waste time for unimportant though, be precise as much as you can but always remember the final scope of the object you are making. PLease make more videos like this and open a school! Roberto
Or get a normal vise and a torque wrench and clamp it with 1-2 n.m. ?
why wouldn you design the vise grip plate so it keeps the body together instead of prying it apart?
I was hoping that you'd have also included a wood bar that was cut against the grain rather than the grain going through the length of the bar. I believe that most wood is far more anisotropic than 3D printed plastic. Possible exceptions would be things like Mulberry wood and the type that Indians used for bows (Osage Orange?) due to the grain structure not being straight-line as in most other wood.
Anyway, I'm pretty sure that a wood bar with the grains aligned in the short dimension would have snapped at a tiny fraction of the pressure required to snap the similarly aligned printed plastic. Still, it'd be interesting to have it tested for confirmation. If this _is_ the case, it might lay to rest much of the concern over printed material anisotropy.
One other thing that IMO could have a dramatic effect on the "angular strength" of things like the vice jaws would be for printer software (firmware?) that would have the lines curve around each corner rather than printing "raster style" with the long part of the piece having long runs of plastic, but the short parts having short runs.
I am assuming this is how the printers operate. (I have built a printer my son purchased but we have not yet fired it up other than to verify that the motors work and the head will melt -- and eject -- plastic filament.)
AWESOME video. You were so thorough, it blew me away! By the end, I was thinking, "Huh. I feel like this is the best possible design for this sort of tool!" Thank you!
ty man for the good job i already made and use that vice ( from thingsverse)
It is a very nice presentation and I like all your videos. Regarding printing the screw, did you consider putting a flat by removing a portion of the thread with a plane parallel to the axis, on one side only to touch the build plate? You will not have a complete thread around 360 degrees on the screw but the nut will have a thread all the way around. Thus, the motion will be continuous. This will allow a higher tensile load capacity because of the continuous fiber direction as you illustrated.
great work!! what if the main gear is larger in diameter, so you can move the clamp faster?
is there a big drawback?
It probably doesn't matter. I made the 2 pushing gears larger, so they can also be used like a handle and moved directly by hand. If they are smaller, they "disappear" behind the base frame, and accessing them by finger gets more difficult. Maybe this secondary feature is obsolete with a larger center gear.
Christoph Laimer thanks for the reply, love all your work on this channel! left me excited to design and print a 3 (at least 2) axis vise now!
Beautiful work. I'd love to see the design process. Did you use Fusion360?
Hi sir,what is the maximum length this clamp can be opened?
Hi Christoph,
I want you know that I am having a Snapmaker 2.0 A350 delivered Monday, and your vise is the first thing I'll print. The reason is, beyond its usefulness, you are a very intelligent, giving, and admirable person. I really appreciate what you're doing. Thank you. Best, Tim.
Just IMO. But I think it would be better to have helicoidal gears. Also, why base jaw plate mounted by dovetail?
Thanks for the excellent video.
This video made me realise why my last print had a failed clip joint.
It was a complicated LED Strip Light design in 5 parts with rotating joints and wall bracket.
The clips I designed that 'should have' slipped into place and locked, just broke as they didn't have enough strength, while the small test part I printed first worked well.
They were aligned differently during printing, so had different weak points!
Thanks for providing your vice design as well, as it will be very useful.
:)
I don't understand what do you mean by saying printed horizontally or printed vertically. In your drawings there is no note whether I am looking at the thing from the top or from the side. Sorry, just trying to understand.
This is a great explanation, and gets me jazzed to make this, and other mechanical tools this way!
I especially appreciate you showing the tests.
Nice video, I am stealing that clip design. Thanks.
Seeing them just clip in like that... There's white stuff all over my laptop now
I very much liked your explanation of the forces acting upon the print layers, and the correct way to orientate the part on the print bed. A square thread would make the rods much stronger (although probably not needed to hold a pcb)😊 Thank you for sharing
This is the most functional vise I ever seen on thingiverse, and so far the only robust one. The explanation is very clear. Can't understand what are those thumbs down....if don't understand the mechanics..don't vote....
Still waiting a 3d printed hand watch ;-). Even if it is going to be 80 mm in diameter. That thing will be very cool. I would try to make one myself but I don't have a 3d printer :-)
I'm sure it's been said, but why not utilize herringbone gears for the red gears?
SUPERB presentation - excellent work, clearly described, generously shared; KUDOS!!!
If I print this on my Resin printer I wonder how much Resin it would take, has anyone tried?
Smart and beautiful design. Congratulations!
u must print the screws horizontaly! :-(
I'm seeing this video just as I'm printing a mechanical part... and realized that the layers are in fact not orientated correctly in order to have optimal strength! Thankfully the part won't suffer any great strain, though. Thanks for the well-made tutorial!
great video. thanks and subcribe
Very good video! Good explanations and a nicely designed vice! i am very interested in "upgrades" like annealing the base for even better layer-adhesion, jaws printed from flexible material and reinforcement with screws (even though the last might be overkill as your all-3d-printed design seems more than strong enough for the application!)
Thanks for uploading the STL-files to thingiverse :)
This is very nice with a great explanation, well done 👍
Hi Chris, excellent video !!! I tried to print the vise but the two gears are too tight and do not rotate properly on the threaded bars. Do you think I can scale the gears up a bit to solve the problem ?
Great design and excellent explanation, Christoph! Very often, the "why" is more important than the "what".. you've really nailed it :) Thanks for making the STLs openly available!!
Can you heat the part to melt and fuse the part in hope that the gaps will be filled ?
they didint work together specially gears :/
very nice design. I am going to print this in PETG.
Technical, video production, voice over,... Absolutly brilliant. I am blown away and humbled. Was a pleasure to watch and obviously subscribed.
this is great experiment but you should have told us parameters of your testing tubes.. infill and other stuff just to know the ground parameters for given results..
Exellent video, thank you so much!
Really good explanation not only for 3d printing but also Strength of Materials. Thank you.
Great Design and Very Good video! Thanks!
Well done. One thing that I did on the screw on a bench vise that I did was to leave the center hollow so that after printing I could insert a threaded rod. One end has an embedded nut to thread into and the other I use a nylock nut. Once tightened down I can apply considerable force without damaging the printed threads.
Thank you for this comprehensive and educational video ... that's an example why I love online videoa !!!
I would suggest using a larger gear in the center and 2 small gears for the sides as that would significantly increase the speed of the vice. Great tutorial though!
Great Video about the features and constraints of FDM-Printing and also an awesome Design. Thanks!
do you know how much force can you apply with this tool?
Hi ! it's pretty cool !
What software do you use for modeling ?
Thank you for reply :)
which 3d printer are you using can i know it please
very well thought and good told video. i really enjoyed it. the coloring does make it look like a toy, but a vice like this really helpful in the shop.
Isn't it strange, you instinctively know when someone is on the right track. I was hooked the moment the video started.
Doesn't it melt when used for soldering work ?
Fantastic video! Really like your style of breaking down and analyzing the problem.
Thank you very much for this information!
newb question: would a properly setup Maker Ultimate 3D Printer be able to print this?
Thank-you.
Thank you for this wonderful video, this is exactly what I and many others need! Could you make a video about your ideas/experience with joining two printed parts? For example with bolts or printed screws. And maybe general design of printed screws would be insightful!
Not only is this a very nice project, your piece on the strength properties of 3D-printed objects is very well done and I'm glad I found this video.
Well thought out and presented. Thanks!
Thank you!
I just started mine now with tough pla.
An idea to add to this clamp, add a philips screwdriver head to the end of the handle, then you could screw it tight.
Thank you. I bought a Creality Ender 3v2 a feww days ago and it is currently making this vice for my pillar drill. It is a lovely piece of work, and should be finnished in a day or so.
Great work, Christoph. Great channel too.