I put 10w-30 in everything. My Ford 5.0 V8 calls for 5w-20 but I don’t care. I want my engine to be lubricated well and have a long life. Ford wants the 20w so it will meet the advertised MPG range. Mine would make noises like marbles are rolling around in the engine with the 20w. I went 10w-30 and never looked back. No more rolling marbles
This ended up being true about the weight and cylinder deactivation problems. Also you were on your way to going into the VVT it seemed like which we now know causes problems if too heavy in Direct Injection Engines.
The EU has come out with a directive(remember a directive is not an order just a direction) that the oil viscosity at running temperature must be thin. It is a fuel economy thing. They say the thicker the oil the more the engine has to burn more fuel to run the oil pump so they want the oil pump to use less energy to pump oil. Using 20 oil means the engine tolerances are much much tighter so if you up to 30 or 40 the pressure release valve opens up at lower revs. Thermostats used to open at around 90'c but now in the UK new cars thermostats open around 75'c
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 Normally, when a thermostat gets older and weak, there is no big problem other than your heater will be a little cold and your mileage may be off a little. From the video, it sounds like the oil needs to be thinned down just right for the AFM parts to work properly. 160F oil will be a little thicker than 220F oil.
It's probably the extra friction in the un-used cylinders creating too much resistance for the cylinders that are working. I am guessing the European auto industry that produces the more expensive vehicles are running tighter clearances for higher performance applications. I bet they engineer the oil parameters on the thin red line of performance capability.
Not against Ams-Oil certainly PAOs with Ester to bind the additive package is better than most off the shelf oils, but while Signature series may be best for an engine it may foul the catalyst not having proper “modern”API ratings hence the API SN and SM set limits on certain daditives. Not sure Signatures Series is best overall for the entire vehicle. Ironically, certain European oil demands additives that conflict with API modern categories. Also the Resource Conserving part of API tends to make oils have lower viscosity for a grade. I.e. an SAE 30 may have a 9.8 cSTat 100c where a non Resourse Conserving SAE 30 oil may have a cSt of possibly as high as 12 at 100C. Both are 30 weight, but one is behaving closer to a 40 than a 20 and the other closer to a 20 than a 40. CAFE standards then reduce viscocitoes recommended in some engines in North America... Where a vehicle may call for 5W-30 if operated in Europe, the same vehicle in the same temperatures may call for a 0W-20 in the United States
First let me set the record straight, all Signature Series oils are API SN+ rated. These oils have the lowest volatility ratings in the industry and will absolutely not affect the exhaust systems. The Euro category for LOW SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulfur) will not be covered by any Signature Series (limits SAPS to 400 PPM). Resource Conserving can be achieved by using synthetic base stocks with a naturally lower coefficient of friction, with staying in the mid range of the viscosity band. Signature Series oils usually increase fuel economy when replacing most other standard engine oils.
My Highlander Hybrid 2021 me live in Saudi Arabia and temperatures reach 50° and the manufacturer recommends 0w16 and I'm putting 0w20 is it enough to protect the engine?
Mr. Dan thank you for great info. What do you think about who says the engine oil intervals is by car design not by what the oil company suggests. For example, in Saudi Arabia the Owner Manual says to change oil & filter every 3100 miles severe condition. If that is true Amsoil will be so expensive compared to MotorCraft; SP standard and cost $5 Full Synthetic.
Good question! Manufacturers rely on Lubrication Engineers to establish oil change intervals. The criteria given to the LE's requires intervals be set for the latest API classification (SM / SN / SP) and for petroleum base oils. Some companies, Toyota have established intervals on using synthetic oils sine they require synthetic in all Toyotas. Now the LEs have to assume the worst possible conditions and the least quality oil to be sure to have lubrication integrity. Toyota recommends 10,000 mile oil changes when using approved synthetic oil. Amsoil engineers the Signature Series oil to achieve 25,000 miles or 1year whichever comes first. The technology is simple, use high quality chemical basestocks (PAO/Esters) and install a robust additive package which will not be depleted over the 25,000 miles. Amsoil warrants the long drain intervals standing behind the use of Amsoil for extended drain that has been proven sine 1971. Recently, Mobil introduced the annual change oils recommended for 20,000 miles or 1 year (confirming Amsoil's position on long drains for engine oils). Most lower quality synthetics will only recommend the drain intervals consistent with the manufacturer (they use the SAME ADDITIVE PACKAGE in the synthetic they use in their conventional oils). You are right, if you don't take advantage of the long drain intervals you will pay more for the premium Amsoil than for the lower quality synthetics. Remember the Amsoil is not only good for longer drains but you get much higher protection in all measured categories. In your climate protection in high temp conditions should be a high priority and for that Amsoil is number one.
@@thelubepage Thank you so much I appreciated I am using Singanure serise 5W20. Do you recommend 5W30 in extreme weather 130F degrees? Also, is 0W better than 5W, or no difference?
0w-20 vs 0w-30 do you think it would be an issue with viscosity being thicker for newer engines? I don't think 0w-20 will be able to handle stop and go as long and provide engine protection. I'm going with signature series 0w-30 but the vehicle use to run on Pennzoil 0w20
If you purchase a superior synthetic like Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 you will have complete protection. I agree that I would use the Amsoil 0W-30 for a little extra protection. The claim is that you will get better fuel economy with the 0W-20, I don't think the little increase in fuel economy is worth the loss of the better protection with the 0W-30. Email me for how to purchase Amsoil at wholesale prices danwatswon#thelubepage.com.
here in oman our climate between 20C to 55C (68F - 131F) and nissan dealer use 5w30 for my altima my drive is very harsh (every day 5-6 RPM and high speed in some times it reach 220KM/h) should I change the viscosity ?? or it is ok?. q2/ what is the best viscosity for land cruiser here in middle east ? owners manual put it open from 0w20 to 20W50?? I prefere full synthetic and best acceleration until top speed but i’m confused and don’t know what should i took ...please help last question ....why i read in some sources that 0W40 for (performance)and 5W40 for (well protection) and they are same in 40 grade in 212F !!?
I like how well you know your oils. Quick question: I have a 05 impala 3.8L w/145,000 miles. Can I use a 10w40 or even amsoil's 20w50 in summer season?
Jim, don't know how I missed this comment. Sorry for the late answer. You can go with the 10W-40 without any detrimental affects, you might lose a little fuel economy with the more viscous oil. If you are using a 5W-30 or 10W-30 and you don't have any excessive oil consumption I wouldn't bother with going to a thicker oil for the summer. Amsoil synthetics maintain viscosity ratings in all climates and unless you have a cooling system problem you will never get the oil hot enough to have it lose viscosity.
@@thelubepage Sir. I am so thankful for the knowledge that you you have shared with all of us. I hope you've got the time to answer my question. I have an F150 2007 with the 5.4L v8 triton, in the owners manual it says, use SAE 5w30. Now, The truck doesn't burn oil and the cooling system is working as it should, I have 100k miles on the engine. I've used amsoil xl since first oil change, should I change the sae grade to a 5w40 in summer? Because here, where I live in Mexico in the summer heat it might reach 114 fahrenheit. I don't tow with the truck, I qualify as a severe use driving style because I drive short distance to work and use the truck for overall daily commuting and occasionally, 2 a year I take long 7 hours highway trips to a beach, but specifically. Do the 5w30 xl can withstand 114 fahrenheit weather temperatures and maintain it's viscosity at operating engine temperature without the need to change to a higher grade of oil such as 5w40 in summer?. Should I stay at 5w30 xl?, my engine has one of those VVT systems by the way. *I change the xl oil every 7months or 3500 miles whichever comes first. Thanks for your time.
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 If you are using the 5W-30 XL and you are using very little oil between oil changes then there is no reason to change. For more extreme conditions like 114*F, personally, I would use the Amsoil Signature Series oil. The SS oil is PAO and Ester based and is capable of handling more extreme conditions. Assuming your cooling system systems continues to work well then you should never have an exceptional severe situation but I like the reserve protection just in case. If you move to the SS oil you could at least double your drain interval to 7000 miles (SS is good for 15,000 miles in severe duty). Since you live in Mexico, where do you buy Amsoil?
Hey Dan, I have a serious doubt regarding the correct oil viscosity on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 3.0 ecodiesel engine. The initial recommendation was for 5w30 ACEA C3, MS-11106. In Europe the ecodiesel is being integrated since 2011 with the NAG1/ 722.6 MB transmission. Then in 2016, FCA release a TSB 18-078-16 REV. A changing the oil viscosity to 5w40/ ACEA E9/ API CJ-4/ MS- 10902 due to crankshaft bearing issues that many reported in their RAMs and some WK2. I would like to know, whether 5w30 is ok for my 2011 EXF engine, or I should change to 5w40 as per FCA recommendations. I know that they changed the engine coolant temperature in the 2014 facelift raising if around 10C degrees. Mine is running at around 84-89C degrees and the newer around 96 degrees. But is this the only reason 5w30 oil won't stand the pressure and spun bearings so FCA recommended HD Diesel oil for the VM engine? Now I'm pouring the 5w30 AEL oil with 11.6 cSt at 100C, so I wonder whether the engine will really be working with 5w40 ADO or DEO oil with 15.4 cSt at 100C and protecting the main parts and bearings where needed. Or I can go with the 5w40 AFL ACEA C3 with 14.3 cSt at 100C? I have a DPF filter.
Very well thought out question! The problem is being caught between manufacturer's rec's. This is not the first or the last time conflicting rec's are specified by different authorities. My practice is to go with the stronger oil and in this case it would be the 5W-40 CJ-4 diesel oil. The CJ-4 diesel oil will not meet ACEA C3 ratings but if the choice is crankshaft bearings vs a 'potential' problem with the Cat Converter I will go with protecting the bearings. I don't think you will have a problem with the Cat when using Amsoil 5W-40 CK-4 (supersedes CJ-4) diesel oil due to the very low volatility of the Amsoil.
Thanks Dan for your reply. Is there really big difference between CJ-4/ ACEA E9 Amsoil and the SN/ ACEA C3 engine oils? I was thinking about pouring the Amsoil 5w40 AFL C3 as it seems a bit thinner 14.3cSt compared to the HD Amsoil 5w40 15.4 cSt. I am thinking whether it will be ok during cold winters and flow to the critical areas as 5w30 does. On the other hand I read a review/ test claiming that lower viscosity oil is much better than viscous one as the viscosity shows only the flow and not the "strenght" of it. The strength is measured by NTHS and the pressure that the oil can handle. So FCA going with 5w40 oil on initially engineered 5w30 engine (italian VM motori, mounted also in Maserati Ghibli) sounds interesting and if I'm sure 5w40 will work better, I will switch to it for sure. I know many russians switch to it and it runs just fine, but will it be ok for the long run.
Sorry for the delay in answering your question, busy , busy , busy! The MS11106 spec requires a higher level of High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) Than standard 5W-30 oils typically have. The Amsoil Euro 5W-30 (AEL) was enhanced to meet this higher requirement. All being said, I would use the Amsoil AFL Euro 5W-40 if it was my Jeep. This oil meets the SAPS levels required and also provides even higher HTHS performance. You might lose 1/4 to 1/2 MPG but I go with the better protection.
Sorry for the late reply. You can use a variety of diesel oils but he best match for you would be a CI-4+ engine oil. this is a robust additive package. In the USA you would have to use a CK-4 rated diesel oil. The pollution control systems required in the USA are not in effect in the Philippines so the more robust CI-4+ is the better choice.
I put 10w-30 in everything. My Ford 5.0 V8 calls for 5w-20 but I don’t care. I want my engine to be lubricated well and have a long life. Ford wants the 20w so it will meet the advertised MPG range. Mine would make noises like marbles are rolling around in the engine with the 20w. I went 10w-30 and never looked back. No more rolling marbles
This ended up being true about the weight and cylinder deactivation problems. Also you were on your way to going into the VVT it seemed like which we now know causes problems if too heavy in Direct Injection Engines.
The EU has come out with a directive(remember a directive is not an order just a direction) that the oil viscosity at running temperature must be thin. It is a fuel economy thing. They say the thicker the oil the more the engine has to burn more fuel to run the oil pump so they want the oil pump to use less energy to pump oil.
Using 20 oil means the engine tolerances are much much tighter so if you up to 30 or 40 the pressure release valve opens up at lower revs.
Thermostats used to open at around 90'c but now in the UK new cars thermostats open around 75'c
Your right, thinner oil is being pushed to save on fuel. If protection was the priority then there would be no 20 weight oils in use.
Sounds like those pickups with Active Fuel Management (AFM) Cylinder Deactivation should make sure and keep a good thermostat in these engines.
Why do you think that's important?
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 Normally, when a thermostat gets older and weak, there is no big problem other than your heater will be a little cold and your mileage may be off a little. From the video, it sounds like the oil needs to be thinned down just right for the AFM parts to work properly. 160F oil will be a little thicker than 220F oil.
Thanks Mr.Watson, regards from Serbia.
Does the oil thicken gradually from 32 to operating temperature? Or does it happen instantly at a specific temperature?
It's probably the extra friction in the un-used cylinders creating too much resistance for the cylinders that are working. I am guessing the European auto industry that produces the more expensive vehicles are running tighter clearances for higher performance applications. I bet they engineer the oil parameters on the thin red line of performance capability.
Hi Dan thanks.
Not against Ams-Oil certainly PAOs with Ester to bind the additive package is better than most off the shelf oils, but while Signature series may be best for an engine it may foul the catalyst not having proper “modern”API ratings hence the API SN and SM set limits on certain daditives. Not sure Signatures Series is best overall for the entire vehicle. Ironically, certain European oil demands additives that conflict with API modern categories. Also the Resource Conserving part of API tends to make oils have lower viscosity for a grade. I.e. an SAE 30 may have a 9.8 cSTat 100c where a non Resourse Conserving SAE 30 oil may have a cSt of possibly as high as 12 at 100C. Both are 30 weight, but one is behaving closer to a 40 than a 20 and the other closer to a 20 than a 40. CAFE standards then reduce viscocitoes recommended in some engines in North America... Where a vehicle may call for 5W-30 if operated in Europe, the same vehicle in the same temperatures may call for a 0W-20 in the United States
First let me set the record straight, all Signature Series oils are API SN+ rated. These oils have the lowest volatility ratings in the industry and will absolutely not affect the exhaust systems. The Euro category for LOW SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulfur) will not be covered by any Signature Series (limits SAPS to 400 PPM). Resource Conserving can be achieved by using synthetic base stocks with a naturally lower coefficient of friction, with staying in the mid range of the viscosity band. Signature Series oils usually increase fuel economy when replacing most other standard engine oils.
My Highlander Hybrid 2021 me live in Saudi Arabia and temperatures reach 50° and the manufacturer recommends 0w16 and I'm putting 0w20 is it enough to protect the engine?
The manufacturer says that using oil worth more than 0w20 leads to damage to the oil pump!
So my question is, can you go the other way? Say in a gm push rod motor can you safely run the 0w20 even though it call for 5w30?
You can run it but it may thin out quickly and damage the engine.
Mr. Dan thank you for great info.
What do you think about who says the engine oil intervals is by car design not by what the oil company suggests.
For example, in Saudi Arabia the Owner Manual says to change oil & filter every 3100 miles severe condition.
If that is true Amsoil will be so expensive compared to MotorCraft; SP standard and cost $5 Full Synthetic.
Good question! Manufacturers rely on Lubrication Engineers to establish oil change intervals. The criteria given to the LE's requires intervals be set for the latest API classification (SM / SN / SP) and for petroleum base oils. Some companies, Toyota have established intervals on using synthetic oils sine they require synthetic in all Toyotas. Now the LEs have to assume the worst possible conditions and the least quality oil to be sure to have lubrication integrity. Toyota recommends 10,000 mile oil changes when using approved synthetic oil. Amsoil
engineers the Signature Series oil to achieve 25,000 miles or 1year whichever comes first. The technology is simple, use high quality chemical basestocks (PAO/Esters) and install a robust additive package which will not be depleted over the 25,000 miles. Amsoil warrants the long drain intervals standing behind the use of Amsoil for extended drain that has been
proven sine 1971. Recently, Mobil introduced the annual change oils recommended for 20,000 miles or 1 year (confirming Amsoil's position on long drains for engine oils). Most lower quality synthetics will only recommend the drain intervals consistent with the manufacturer (they use the SAME ADDITIVE PACKAGE in the synthetic they use in their conventional oils).
You are right, if you don't take advantage of the long drain intervals you will pay more for the premium Amsoil than for the lower quality synthetics. Remember the Amsoil is not only good for longer drains but you get much higher protection in all measured categories. In your climate protection in high temp conditions should be a high priority and for that Amsoil is number one.
@@thelubepage Thank you so much I appreciated
I am using Singanure serise 5W20. Do you recommend 5W30 in extreme weather 130F degrees?
Also, is 0W better than 5W, or no difference?
how does ambient temperatures outside affect the cooilg system and by extension the choice of oil viscosity used
Just run what the owners manual tells you and be done.
0w-20 vs 0w-30 do you think it would be an issue with viscosity being thicker for newer engines? I don't think 0w-20 will be able to handle stop and go as long and provide engine protection. I'm going with signature series 0w-30 but the vehicle use to run on Pennzoil 0w20
If you purchase a superior synthetic like Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 you will have complete protection. I agree that I would use the Amsoil 0W-30 for a little extra protection. The claim is that you will get better fuel economy with the 0W-20, I don't think the little increase in fuel economy is worth the loss of the better protection with the 0W-30. Email me for how to purchase Amsoil at wholesale prices danwatswon#thelubepage.com.
Cilinder deactivation system
here in oman our climate between 20C to 55C (68F - 131F) and nissan dealer use 5w30 for my altima
my drive is very harsh (every day 5-6 RPM and high speed in some times it reach 220KM/h) should I change the viscosity ?? or it is ok?.
q2/ what is the best viscosity for land cruiser here in middle east ? owners manual put it open from 0w20 to 20W50?? I prefere full synthetic and best acceleration until top speed but i’m confused and don’t know what should i took ...please help
last question ....why i read in some sources that 0W40 for (performance)and 5W40 for (well protection) and they are same in 40 grade in 212F !!?
I like how well you know your oils. Quick question: I have a 05 impala 3.8L w/145,000 miles. Can I use a 10w40 or even amsoil's 20w50 in summer season?
Jim, don't know how I missed this comment. Sorry for the late answer. You can go with the 10W-40 without any detrimental affects, you might lose a little fuel economy with the more viscous oil. If you are using a 5W-30 or 10W-30 and you don't have any excessive oil consumption I wouldn't bother with going to a thicker oil for the summer. Amsoil synthetics maintain viscosity ratings in all climates and unless you have a cooling system problem you will never get the oil hot enough to have it lose viscosity.
@@thelubepage Sir. I am so thankful for the knowledge that you you have shared with all of us. I hope you've got the time to answer my question. I have an F150 2007 with the 5.4L v8 triton, in the owners manual it says, use SAE 5w30. Now, The truck doesn't burn oil and the cooling system is working as it should, I have 100k miles on the engine. I've used amsoil xl since first oil change, should I change the sae grade to a 5w40 in summer? Because here, where I live in Mexico in the summer heat it might reach 114 fahrenheit. I don't tow with the truck, I qualify as a severe use driving style because I drive short distance to work and use the truck for overall daily commuting and occasionally, 2 a year I take long 7 hours highway trips to a beach, but specifically. Do the 5w30 xl can withstand 114 fahrenheit weather temperatures and maintain it's viscosity at operating engine temperature without the need to change to a higher grade of oil such as 5w40 in summer?. Should I stay at 5w30 xl?, my engine has one of those VVT systems by the way.
*I change the xl oil every 7months or 3500 miles whichever comes first.
Thanks for your time.
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 If you are using the 5W-30 XL and you are using very little oil between oil changes then there is no reason to change. For more extreme conditions like 114*F, personally, I would use the Amsoil Signature Series oil. The SS oil is PAO and Ester based and is capable of handling more extreme conditions. Assuming your cooling system systems continues to work well then you should never have an exceptional severe situation but I like the reserve protection just in case. If you move to the SS oil you could at least double your drain interval to 7000 miles (SS is good for 15,000 miles in severe duty).
Since you live in Mexico, where do you buy Amsoil?
Hey Dan, I have a serious doubt regarding the correct oil viscosity on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 3.0 ecodiesel engine. The initial recommendation was for 5w30 ACEA C3, MS-11106. In Europe the ecodiesel is being integrated since 2011 with the NAG1/ 722.6 MB transmission. Then in 2016, FCA release a TSB 18-078-16 REV. A changing the oil viscosity to 5w40/ ACEA E9/ API CJ-4/ MS- 10902 due to crankshaft bearing issues that many reported in their RAMs and some WK2. I would like to know, whether 5w30 is ok for my 2011 EXF engine, or I should change to 5w40 as per FCA recommendations. I know that they changed the engine coolant temperature in the 2014 facelift raising if around 10C degrees. Mine is running at around 84-89C degrees and the newer around 96 degrees. But is this the only reason 5w30 oil won't stand the pressure and spun bearings so FCA recommended HD Diesel oil for the VM engine? Now I'm pouring the 5w30 AEL oil with 11.6 cSt at 100C, so I wonder whether the engine will really be working with 5w40 ADO or DEO oil with 15.4 cSt at 100C and protecting the main parts and bearings where needed. Or I can go with the 5w40 AFL ACEA C3 with 14.3 cSt at 100C? I have a DPF filter.
Very well thought out question! The problem is being caught between manufacturer's rec's. This is not the first or the last time conflicting rec's are specified by different
authorities. My practice is to go with the stronger oil and in this case it would be the 5W-40 CJ-4 diesel oil. The CJ-4 diesel oil will not meet ACEA C3 ratings but if the choice is crankshaft bearings vs a 'potential' problem with the Cat Converter I will go with protecting the bearings. I don't think you will have a problem with the Cat when using Amsoil 5W-40 CK-4 (supersedes CJ-4) diesel oil due to the very low volatility of the Amsoil.
Thanks Dan for your reply. Is there really big difference between CJ-4/ ACEA E9 Amsoil and the SN/ ACEA C3 engine oils? I was thinking about pouring the Amsoil 5w40 AFL C3 as it seems a bit thinner 14.3cSt compared to the HD Amsoil 5w40 15.4 cSt. I am thinking whether it will be ok during cold winters and flow to the critical areas as 5w30 does. On the other hand I read a review/ test claiming that lower viscosity oil is much better than viscous one as the viscosity shows only the flow and not the "strenght" of it. The strength is measured by NTHS and the pressure that the oil can handle. So FCA going with 5w40 oil on initially engineered 5w30 engine (italian VM motori, mounted also in Maserati Ghibli) sounds interesting and if I'm sure 5w40 will work better, I will switch to it for sure. I know many russians switch to it and it runs just fine, but will it be ok for the long run.
Sorry for the delay in answering your question, busy , busy , busy! The MS11106 spec requires a higher level of High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) Than standard 5W-30 oils typically have. The Amsoil Euro 5W-30 (AEL) was enhanced to meet this higher requirement. All being said, I would use the Amsoil AFL Euro 5W-40 if it was my Jeep. This oil meets the SAPS levels required and also provides even higher HTHS performance. You might lose 1/4 to 1/2 MPG but I go with the better protection.
Im from philippines , my car is toyota innova 2.8 liters diesel engine . What oil should i use for my car .
Sorry for the late reply. You can use a variety of diesel oils but he best match for you would be a CI-4+ engine oil. this is a robust additive package. In the USA you would have to use a CK-4 rated diesel oil. The pollution control systems required in the USA are not in effect in the Philippines so the more robust CI-4+ is the better choice.