Installing Home Network Wiring in a Friend's New Build House - An In-Depth Look
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- This video has been in the works for a long time where I install full home network wiring in a friend's new build house. We will be running CAT6 cabling to several rooms, installing access points on the ceilings and terminating everything in a rack including a full UniFi setup with UniFi 6 Lite access points, a UDM-Pro router and a USW 16 PoE switch.
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Network cabling hardware used: gist.github.com/camerongray15...
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Chapters:
00:00 - Introduction
00:55 - DOG!
01:25 - A look at the existing install
06:10 - The initial plan
12:34 - Hardware we'll be using
27:09 - Figuring out cable routes
30:37 - Slight change of plan
40:13 - Installing the conduit
50:50 - Installing pattresses and trunking
1:01:08 - Running the cables
1:07:58 - Installing faceplates and keystone jacks
1:13:31 - Dealing with the existing network cables
1:16:49 - A faulty cable
1:20:12 - Typical builder's network wiring
1:22:05 - Fitting out the cabinet
1:23:37 - First power up
1:23:56 - Completed home network tour
1:26:53 - Conclusion
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This is a super long video however there are timestamps in the description and video seek bar to help you find parts that you are interested in.
Buy the IPC-5100 Plus CCTV & Network Tester on AliExpress (Affiliate): geni.us/8kCNqG
Buy the Super Rod Mega Set on Amazon UK (Affiliate): amzn.to/3G5tSon
Network cabling hardware used: gist.github.com/camerongray1515/20dfd4a833488ddf6759ebab12990263
Thank you for this super long video Cameroon.
Did you put any pink and blue lights in his bathroom ?
Honestly struggle to find any channels which cover these kinds of setups that I am so interested in, let alone one that does it at such a good standard, with so much great information. Great job mate! Keep up the amazing content!
I love the differences between UK/ US low voltage wiring equipment. The wall boxes are the most interesting! Really enjoyed this video, great job all around on the install. You handled the unexpected challenges well and the end product is very professional.
I loved it when you opened the cabinet and then randomly a cute doggy head with extremely floppy ears just appeared 😀 I bet those tickled when they brushed against your arm!
Why new builds don't put network cables in all rooms is beyond me without the drywall it will be quick and pennies to do
You need to pay extra and quite a few builders don't even offer it
You probably wouldn't want them to tbh. I rented a new build with networking set up and they use CCA Cat5e cable and standard electrician style termination like in this video. Some of the ends were too short to do anything useful with as well. It did all work but only just.
Cost savings outweigh the pros for the new potential homeowners. Same way new homes also don’t run in alarm cables unless specked and leave homeowners having to get wireless equipment installed and in the same vein, leave too many people with Wi-Fi only households rather than running network cables
Yeah, it's really annoying. They'll often do it as an extra charge but we're talking in the region of £80-100 per port which quickly adds up. Wish it was treated as an essential requirement with new builds in a similar way to how EV charging or solar is in many areas.
Have to agree with you most developers don’t do it but then give Openreach leeway to install FTTP which is highly desirable. Persimmon don’t install either despite having their own Fibrenest ISP.
Really enjoy the home networking videos. Gave me the confidence to do my own home network, the circular chipboard access covers were a godsend. Just wish I had the money now for a UDM-Pro!
I'm thinking of just repurposing an old desktop for self hosted controller until I can save up enough for the UDM and migrate to it
UDM-Pro Se with the PoE ports is really nice
I know it has been a year, but the new Unifi XG lite is a great, lower-cost option for home networks -- replacing the ancient USG 3P. You still need a controller, but as another commenter said, self-hosted is a great budget-friendly option.
Done this in my new build property. When I was fitting my LVT flooring downstairs I pulled the skirtings off to fit the flooring underneath. When I had them off I ran the cabling behind the skirtings from the ONT box and up through the soil stack in downstairs WC, straight up into the loft. I ran additional cables too for future proofing.
Fantastic job, your planning of everything is brilliant. Just wish you’d done all these videos before I wired my house
Just moved into a new build myself and had the electrician run CAT6 throughout the property which terminate under the stairs where my cabinet is. I’m also using UDM PRO SE with one U6-LR.
Great video and gives a solid understanding to see how one would approach running some additional networking runs!
Cool. I did this in a house with dot and dab walls taking a lot of inspiration from your flat install. I did Cat6A cable for some future proofing (probably overkill). Wanted to run conduit but only 7mm cavity between the plasterboard and blockwork which is only just enough for the cable I used. Only thing I wish I did differently was use metal back boxes screwed into the blockwork instead of drywall backboxes which are more prone to breaking and give a less neat appearance.
Fun project just finishing a similar project re wire / central heating re install, managed to re use some the old copper water pipes for audio/network cable runs, result!
That's a brilliant install, nice work!
Nice work Cameron, tidy job and well thought out.
Great video as always dude. Your attention to detail always amazes me. I’m in a similar position to you where doing things like this isn’t my “day job”, but I get a good kick out of it so am more than happy to do it for friends and family. A piece of advise on the flexicon - if you use either a fish tape or rope pulled through with a bolt and magnet before installing it in the wall, it can make pulling cables through in one go possible. I appreciate that it’s not always going to work, but has helped me a few times :)
You can also use a ball of string with a small tissue tied on one end. You can then put a hoover on the other end and suck the tissue and string through the counduit very quicky and have a draw string ready to go. Also my preference for straight runs where space permits is waste plumbing pipe as its cheap, easily available and can hold a lot of cables.
Yeah, I definitely was kicking myself when I tried to get the fish wire pulled in after I'd already installed the conduit! Unfortunately in this case the run was just too long with too many tight bends to get a pull from end to end and then after cutting it the individual sections were short enough that I could just push the cables up
@@camerongray1515 The best of a tricky situation I’d say (:
For flexible conduit - wrap the end of the cable with a load of tissue so it’s tight in the conduit, then put a vacuum cleaner on the other end to suck it through. It works!
Probably would work to get an initial pull wire in or for something really thin like fibre however with 5 cables in the conduit, it's basically totally full so I imagine the friction could be too much for it - it took effort to even pull some of them by hand at times
Small piece of rag tied to string and suck that through first then use the string to pull the cables through the conduit. You might need to use the lightweight string to pull a stronger cord through first depending on how many cables you are trying to get through.
@@camerongray1515 yeah I did it with a plastic bag and pull string. Three seconds to get it across the room though the conduit, worked great!
I love your style very neat and tidy.
Great video, loved the 🐶 cameos too 😂👍
Ive just run cat 6 in my new build. What I did was drill out a 45mm hole out of the integrated garage. Ran a 45mm pipe from the outside into loft. All network cables fed through there and then from the loft they dropped down into the respective areas. Didn’t have too much destruction or disruption to the existing walls internally.
That's a good way of doing it, considered that for houses I've planned out before. Half the battle is getting something into the attic, once you're there it's pretty easy. I also tend to look for garages/integrated wardrobes that line up in such a way that you can feed surface trunking up to the attic hidden in the cupboard.
Nice to see how you’ve done this, when I fun long flexible conduit runs I put a draw wire in (some 1.5 singles work well) before pulling the conduit into the walls/floors then you don’t have to struggle with all the conduit bends.
I did eventually manage to get a draw wire throughout the whole conduit run (after a lot of swearing and wishing I'd done it before it was installed) but unfortunately the bends were just too tight to get enough cables pulled through the whole run without the force being too much for the tape holding the cables to the draw wire, hence why I ended up splitting the conduit as I was running low on time and just needed it to work.
42:10 Just as a tip I have seen people use a bit of twine with some tissue paper tied to one end and then using a vacuum to pull it all the way through the conduit so you have a pull string/tab then when you pull the cables through also pull another another bit of string with it so you have a pull string so later someone can use that to pull additional cables down the road! ❤
Just done something similar myself in a older house though, luckily we’re fully renovating, so the solid walls weren’t too much of an issue. Ran almost 700M of cable so far with another 300M or so t go. In total about 60-70 points. It’s way over kill but after only doing 8 in my last house and wishing I had more, I’ve gone overkill.
Oh and added 4 fibre runs too
To help plan where to open up floors and walls, I invested in a flexible inspection camera, which is actually very handy. Basically, it's a high resolution monitor/main unit, with a camera on a very long flexible thing! There are plenty available, but a good one will be maybe £100, but could be 1/3 of that on the you-know-where sale days. But, if you get a good one, with a decent field of view and LEDs on the end it means, if in doubt, you can drill just a few small holes, and poke the camera in first to check for pipes, mains wiring and other things you may not have anticipated.
The other tool I find useful, is a metal detectorists hand held Metal Detector Wand. It's the thing they shove into holes they have dug, to find small items like coins when still in the dirt. But this is very accurate, and a lot better than many of the pipe and stud finders. It picks up Plasterboard Nails very well, so you can predict where Studs are from them. Also picks up wires and pipes very well, and to a good depth through plaster and wooden floorboards.
I did have a USB endoscope (used to connect it to my phone) and it was super useful, irritatingly I've somehow managed to lose it despite it being 5m long! Think I need to accept that it's lost and buy another rather than keeping holding out in case I find it. Definitely very useful to have though!
Impressive job, very neat indeed!
Sadly in our house, all the ceilings/floors are concrete and the inner walls are either brick or plaster board/plaster blocks which are
Still doable - just makes more mess due to chasing. I had to chase everything in on my renovation but I wouldn't try that with a house that has carpets and so on.
Top job as always Cameron.
Thank for your video!!! I really enjoy watching this kind of content!!! Hope to see you making more videos like this!! By the way, hope to see you making a video on your home network tour of 2022 :)
Thanks, I've thought about a home network tour but it's not really changed much since my last few videos where I replaced the patch panel or when I got the new G.Fast connection so not sure what I'd really show. Suppose I'll maybe do one if I have time but can't promise that it'll be super interesting.
@@camerongray1515 that’s great!
This was great, thanks Cameron - I put an offer on an old Victorian house this week, so I've been thinking and researching on how I might install a good network and manage cables effectively given the difficulties of old lath and plaster walls, so this has been very helpful! I'm planning on getting my hands on a Ubiquiti Aggregation Switch and - using 7 of the switch's 8 ports (with the 8th being the uplink connection) - laying fibre in 4 of the rooms in the house, making use of Ubiquiti enterprise 8-port PoE switches in the individual rooms, including powering any wifi APs I want to install nearby.
As an aside, I also got myself a Ubiquiti G4 doorbell which runs on 20V DC, and I found a video here on youtube of a guy using PoE to power the doorbell - I gave that a go and it allowed me to play around with the system before installing it - not recommended by Ubiquiti, but very handy!
Great job. My new build was a nightmare to run cables as I was up against brick walls. I'm still yet to find a nice solution for the wires coming out the ceiling to run across the wall under my stairs to the cab. That black sheath maybe the nicest thing I've seen, just need to work out how to make it fit with what I have
Excellent work
Very nice job!
1:20:35 that anoyes me to. I was doing network at a school for quite the time ago redoing ther network. and where there was connections the wires where like stripped back 15cm from the jack XD, Was also gonna say thanks for the tip about the network tester cuz ive been looking for something like that for as long time
amazing work, seriously brilliant
Great video! Hopefully give some inspiration for me to try and figure out how to escape my services cupboard (under stairs) and get to my home office!
Excellent detailed video thanks
Great video that provided a really good insight into how to route the cables. I am intending to do something similar in my new build house once I've plucked up the courage to make the first hole in the wall. I would be really interested to see how you went around patching the various holes up after the installation is complete.
Keep up the good work!
I didn't have enough time to patch the holes but it's relatively easy to do - basically just need to screw a wooden batten across the back of the hole then screw the piece of plasterboard you cut out to this. Then just sand and fill until it's smooth and paint over it. It can also be helpful to sand the edges of the hole and the plasterboard that you are fitting back in to make the gap around the piece a bit wider to give more space for the filler to fit in. And after writing all that, I feel like I probably should make a video on it...
@@camerongray1515 please do!
Another good video, always enjoy watching, thanks again ! 👍
Do you have any videos on setting up home networks in terms of the software side of things ? e.g port security, VPNs, QoS. This is probably a big topic to cover and maybe limited by what network equipment people have, but wondered if it's something you would be interested in doing ?
I've done some basic "first time setup" things in the past with UniFi product reviews but it's not something I necessarily focus on - there's other channels out there that produce much better content and are much more passionate about that side of things than me (Lawrence Systems, Crosstalk Solutions, Mactelecom Networks.etc). Then as fancy as my home network is, I don't actually have much advanced config stuff - just a couple of VLANs, basic firewall rules and a VPN for remote access, nothing more than that. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy playing with the software side of things, but producing an instructional video on it is very different to just setting stuff up for myself and opens me up to a huge influx of "how do I" type comments.
@@camerongray1515 I see, no worries mate I appreciate that. I will have a look at those channels, thanks for the reply 👍
Doing multi-story homes never seems to go to plan. lol. Nice job, though! My current home was an absolute nightmare to run cables through. Like this person's home, I put my main network rack underneath the stairs, which happened to be an unfinished area accessible from within a closet, which meant I had open access to one wall cavity. However.. my home has basically no subfloor cavities and all ductwork is run inside of soffits... one happened to be blocking my easy access path. Basically got around it by cutting out huge chunks of sheetrock and snaking everything around. Running cables to my garage/front of the house (for cameras, etc.) was even more of a pain and I ended up butchering the sheetrock in my downstairs hallway and foyer area. For my living room I was fed up and just ran the cable outside... lol
This is really niche content but just like the GFast Instal video I find it very interesting
just a tip for if you are doing it again
the clips for twin and earth mains cable can hold more than one network cable which would likely have saved you time haha
Yeah, in hindsight I definitely should have done that, stupidly only took 6mm clips with me without thinking about the fact that we'd be running multiple cables.
@@camerongray1515 haha hindsight always makes it easier
I kinda regret some of the way I did the tv cabling at home lol
I should have got a cheap 8 port keystone patch panel and some f plug keystones lol
Love the curious dog !
Great video, well thought out. I was a little disappointed to miss the cables being pulled.
Thanks, unfortunately with projects like this theres always a balance of how much I can film without the video being even longer or the project taking too long due to having to wrestle cameras into places where I'm trying to pull cables which ultimately end up getting in the way.
@@camerongray1515 totally get it! I am going to start a similar project and looks for tips and learning from other peoples mistakes along the way. Your video was transparent and honest and helped greatly.
I have subscribed and watching many of your videos. Keep up the good work!
Nice tidy job that👍
Video is really informative! Is there more information on how you fix the massive chunks of drywall that got removed?
I bought a new build from StModwen nearly a year ago, the standard cabling was 1 RJ45 between the OpenReach NTE and the TV/"media" point, then 4x telephone extensions (TV point and 3 of the 4 bedrooms), a data installer came for most of a day and got more cabling to the TV point, and used the DLine trunking (to avoid bashing through dot/dab) and it looks quite good; I'd love to do a more complete install and get an upstairs AP, but I don't have the confidence to cut, let alone repair plasterboard and flooring!
If you have phone extensions to upstairs it's worth checking out how they're wired. They may be wired in CAT5e and while they'll be daisy chained in some way you can quite possibly join some of them through to get at least one continuous run to upstairs and use it for network. Once you have a connection upstairs it's relatively easy to get it up into an attic and add a switch to drop it down into various rooms. I did this on a previous project: ruclips.net/video/9bBUuDtJwKU/видео.html
Awesome, great vid
If you friend wanted a fallback network and was with Three Mobile then the Three Home Hub should connect to one of those network sockets and connected into the router and suitably configured to use Three Broadband when there is a problem with the OPENREACH network but needs a power supply maybe a POE interface would work.
Also I have heard of getting some strong magnets like fishing magnets to put on both sides of the joists/wall so you know where you are drilling through.
Tidy job. I agree with the punchdown patch panels being a pain; I struggled with a 48-port one at my "node zero". I ended up chopping it off and going with toolless keystones and never looked back. Much quicker overall as I found I could sit more comfortably fitting the jacks instead of awkwardly doing a giant IDC panel, plus being able to juggle the order of ports was handy when I realised on testing that I'd mixed up two ports in different rooms.
Irrelevant here as you already have the cabinet, but I ended up replacing my 19" cabinets with wall brackets as I realised I only needed patch panel and switch there... Reclaimed some cupboard space! Maintaining 19" server cases is a PITA in a cupboard space even with slides, and I ended up moving from 2* 4u servers to a pair of towers. Less cool to look at but easier to live with 🤣
I'd say the conduit was superfluous though; I can see the attraction but it's not necessary and as you found makes a rod for your own back. In a domestic environment you don't need cable monkeys to be able to reconfigure the network over a weekend, and any future network changes will involve opening the walls and lifting the floors anyway.
Yeah, keystone patch panels are a life saver. I've also used vertical brackets before, definitely great when all you need is a patch panel and a switch. Has we not got the cabinet for free, that would have probably been my recommendation. As for the conduit, it's definitely a bit excessive but for me it was to make it easy to get cables through walls such as the living room wall without opening it up again. If new/additional cables can be pulled without damage to the underfloor space/attic then it at least reduces the amount of damage required. I wouldn't use it everywhere but for the relatively low cost it doesn't seem like a terrible idea for routes with several different studs in the way which would make rodding difficult.
Can you make more longer videos like this please? I subbed awhile ago, very interesting channel. 🙏👍
I'd love to do more of these, just unfortunately limited by how many opportunities I have to install networks like this since it's not an everyday occurrence for me. I do have some potential stuff in the pipeline though!
yes new builds put effort into meeting the latest energy efficiency codes but are still putting in cat 5e and only in a couple of locations.
where can I get a drill bit like you used for the conduit holes?
Standard 12.5mm plasterboard in the UK is 1/2 hour fire resistant.
Hi Cameron,
Great video as always.
Do you have any tips/could you make a video about how to run cabling (ethernet) through walls and ceilings etc, for beginners? I want to do some wired runs in my house soon but need some advice on how to best go about it!
It mostly just comes down to figuring out how the building is constructed and thinking a bit outside the box as to how you can run cables. If I get another opportunity I can try and make a more beginner friendly/instructional video but it's relatively rare that I get chances to make videos such as this. I tend to do things like pop sockets off the wall and use the resulting hole to look inside the walls. I've also previously used an endoscope camera poked through the cable hole behind a light fitting to see inside a ceiling before. But realistically you almost just need to accept that you will have to make some holes in the wall/ceiling/floor as you go to figure things out.
TP-LINK PA9020P (Twice as fast as the TP-LINK AV6000) Broadband Over Mains is very good and works for me as we have mostly steel conducts we don't have much of a problem with radiation from the mains wiring.
Powerline is an acceptable option in situations where running a cable isn't possible however it is not remotely equivalent to a hardwired connection, it's more similar to WiFi than anything (and often WiFi can perform better than Powerline)
@@camerongray1515 Now that I have FIOS (Future Fibre) I have actually tested them and they can keep up with my connection and are more than enough for my SAMSUNG Blu-Ray,YAMAHA DOLBY Digital DTS Theatre system, SONY TV and SKY HD+ STB.
Love these videos, I think you should get yourself a camera for your Rods so you can see in under the floors when running cables in harder domestic environments. 😁
I have thought about it, I have a cheap USB endoscope somewhere that I could attach to rods but I've somehow managed to lose it despite it being around 5m long!
@@camerongray1515 haha these things happen, also in relation to the home alarm being plugged in it doesn’t comply with regulations 😳 would definitely be recommending to your friend they change company
Yeah, I was very surprised to see it, it was actually installed by an SSAIB registered company at build time so my mind boggles as to why they wouldn't have wired it into an FCU. It's literally next to the consumer unit which while it is a split load board (of course...) it has a couple of high integrity ways - would have been so much better to put it on an MCB/RCBO in one of those ways since as it is currently we literally had to kill power to the alarm when I turned the socket circuit off to remove one of the sockets in the office.
Awwwww cute dog ❤️❤️
I really enjoy all your home networking and diy videos. Do you have any experience of network wiring old houses circa 1920s?
Don’t think he was alive in the 1920s 🤔
I've never worked on a place that old, it'll definitely be possible but you'd need to prepare for potentially chasing out brick and dealing with things like lath and plaster walls. Just need to really look at the construction of the building and figure out if there's anywhere you can easily run cables and prepare for potentially some plastering/redecoration work.
@@camerongray1515 Thanks, appreciate your reply.
What size conduit did you use and how many cat6 cables can it fit?
I ended up taking a slightly different approach in the house I was renting. I ran a single run of flexible conduit between the basement and the top floor. opening an entry hole for each floor in the conduit and placing a grommet on the hole. I then placed a switch on the top floor and a switch on the main floor and used a cable from the link ports on each of those switches to the patch panel and then into a layer 3 switch in the ba basement n basement. I then ran a cable from each switch to the ports in each room on that floor. This meant I only had two cable runs going floor to floor. Everything else was short horizontal runs in surface-mounted conduit (Plaster and lath walls so I went with surface mount conduit just above the baseboards.).It's what they used to call a collapsed backbone. When I moved I just pulled the switches and the rack with the patch panel. Left everything else in place.
That sounds like a great way of doing it, you definitely have to get creative when renting - I used to have to run cables underneath carpets tucked into the cracks between floorboards and then over doors by nailing cable clips into the top of the frame so I wouldn't leave any visible holes.
This is probably the Best Network Setup/Installs I've seen. Have you got your own company or is this just for your RUclips Channel ?
Thanks! I'm very much just a DIYer when it comes to this sort of thing - wired up my own place when I bought it back in 2017 and since then have just done a few installs for friends and family.
@@camerongray1515 definitely looks to be at a professional standard. Very clean work, keep it up 👍
another awesome video Cameron. any advice for a decent firewall for someone fairly novice to networking.
It really comes down to what you need in it in terms of features - The UniFi UDMs are probably one of the easiest to get started with but lack advanced features when it comes to routing, VPNs.etc. If you need more advanced features then something like PFSense is a good option but you'll need some sort of x86 system to run it on. If you want a more advanced device that comes ready to use out of the box, MikroTik could also be a decent option.
Nice 👍
Been thinking if OPENREACH would source modified VERIZON Optical Network Terminals that have the PSU, ONT and APA all in one neat package and supports Ethernet as well as COAX so if you have a broadband and voice package that is what you get and your phones plug into the ONT and a router either coaxial or ethernet cable router will complete the system
PSU=Power Supply Unit
ONT=Optical Network Terminal
APA=Analogue Phone Adapter
Nice video, enjoyed it and gave me alot of ideas of how to plan mine. Is the cabinet a 9u?
Thanks, I think it's probably around 9/10U but not 100% sure
Ah yes, builders in their infinite wisdom putting things specifically where you want them NOT to be.
Great result and v satisfying to watch your progress through the video. That trunking + cable braiding is ideal!
Out of interest, how did you route the conduit to the TV points inside the void?
Thanks! Behind the TV was a massive open void so it was simply a case of cutting out both back boxes, using cable rods to feed a string between the two holes then tying the conduit to the string to pull it through.
@@camerongray1515 Nice, thank you - need to get myself some of those cable rods!
Hey Cameron, I got a question:
I'm also currently in the planning process of upgrading our home with a propper network structure and when I came across your video I was a little confused; Why are you using Cat6 and not Cat7 cabeling? Wouldn't it be better for the future to use cable with a lot more overhead, so you don't have to upgrade too fast again..? I'm very interested to hear your reasoning behind it.
Cheers!
Luca
Realistically CAT6 is fine for almost all domestic stuff going forward for many years - it'll handle 10gbit over shorter distances (under 35m or so) which is what we have here. CAT7 is a bit of an oddball standard that uses different connectors to normal RJ45 ones so it's almost never used. You'll probably find cheap "CAT7" patch leads on places like Amazon but these are almost certainly fake and purely advertised for people who think "higher number means faster" The next step up from CAT6 is CAT6a (which is actually a newer standard than CAT7) but this is more expensive (you'd need to use CAT6a rated jacks and faceplates in addition to the cables) and over the distances involved wouldn't give a huge benefit for a domestic install like this. The higher ratings of cables are also significantly thicker and therefore harder to run, bend and terminate.
Did you and your friend patch up all of the holes or did you guys pay to have someone fix all of the holes?
Do you think it would be easier to have the cabinet in the loft and running all the cables up there?
It's definitely an option but wouldn't have been that much easier here as we'd still have needed to run cables to downstairs to serve the TV and to bring a connection up from the ONT. Some people freak out about the idea of having a rack in a loft due to the temperatures involved, it's not something I'm particularly worried about but you do need to be mindful of the temperature and make sure the equipment you are using is suitable for use in an environment that can get pretty hot. I also wouldn't install anything unless the loft was floored - otherwise it becomes a nightmare to access for maintenance and moving around will kick up a tonne of insulation dust which could block fans.
Hey Cameron I’ve been watching your videos and I was wondering if you can help me you seem to know quite a lot my problem is I want to get 1440p on my monitor from the ps5 at a 120hz is there anything I can buy to downscale the ps5 4k 120hz signal to display 1440p 120hz on my monitor I got a hmdi to display port converter /adapter and that didn’t work any idea’s ? I would be most grateful for any help thank you
Great video! Do you have any advice for running Ethernet down a wall full of loose insulation?
Insulation always makes things "fun" - I've found the best way is to angle the rods so that they are touching the plasterboard on one side of the wall and run between the plasterboard and insulation - you'll never get a rod to run through the middle of the insulation. There are also magnetic tools where you attach a piece of metal to the cable and then use a magnetic "roller" on the outside of the wall to pull the cable down, although I've never used these.
@@camerongray1515 that’s really helpful. Thank you
Best upgrade I did when spec'ing a new build out was to get cabling throughout. Builders charged £35 per network point
That's a pretty fair price for it which is nice to see - where I've seen it offered the builders are often charging upwards of £85 a port which gets very expensive very quickly.
Were the terminations good, and did they use 5e CCA? The RJ45 terminations in my new build weren't as bad as the sparky does data example here, but they were NOT to specification.
how much power draw is this server?
I wish, here in germany, we would also have just dry-wall. But in my apartment most walls are solid brick walls. Even putting a nail in it is quite hard. :(
Yeah, people complain about it as it's not as "solid" but it's excellent for when it comes to making alterations! I'd much rather have a plasterboard wall than solid brick/block/concrete everywhere.
2:53 Is this device your endpoint till the provider should work? After this do you can install all own products? Why your provider write "Do not remove" on the plug? He pay the power for the endpoint?
that plug was for the alarm
That is the ONT which connects to the GPON optical network managed by Openreach (the company that operates the UK's main physical copper/fibre network) and presents a regular ethernet connection. You would then connect either your own router or a router provided by your ISP to this port. Depending on your ISP you would either use PPPoE to connect or you would just get an IP address assigned over DHCP. The "Do not remove" plug is for the alarm system which in my opinion is totally unacceptable and it should absolutely be hard wired, however as it is under warranty/support from the company that installed it, I don't want to mess with it. The ONT is powered by the white power brick in the socket next to the alarm.
@@camerongray1515 Yeah then it is same here in Schleswig-Holstein, Federal Republic of Germany at my provider SWN Glasfaser. Our ONT is the provider end but my provider offer me a free router too. They starts with AVM 7390, 7490, 7590, and now 5530. First three router need 15m Cat7 copper cable between, last only fiber. Here all installation are FTTH (private houses) or in my issue FTTB (rented apartment). All router offer 2 analogue phone lines, ISDN, WiFi-4/5/6, 6 DECT devices, and WiFi phone devices.
Since some years I use my own two mesh router AVM 7490 and 7590. It handle my second provider Deutsche Tekekom over VDSL2 (145m) too. This provider give me three phone number over VoIP, the first only one phone number over VoIP. I use since years an Agfeo AS 35 for my home phones. Typical LAN2LTE-devices are forbidden here in Germany.
Your UK electrician install fire alarm and intruder alarm hard wired over an extra RCBO/MCB device only. So only a fault in this power line crash the system.
1:24:00 Why do you use the old unmanageable switch? Would do you not install unifi switches only?
It is a unifi switch
It's a UniFi Switch Lite 8 PoE, we could have just about fit everything on the main switch and the UDM ports but my friend wanted that switch there to serve the attic ports (which required PoE) and some other hardware in the cupboard such as the printer and alarm panel. Equally, there's no real issue using a non-UniFi switch in a UniFi environment.
@@camerongray1515 Why all Unifi stuff is named but this small switch not have PoE lamp or be named with this product name? I use other big brand but all of them from 5port till 48port switches are named with the brand name.
@@camerongray1515 At 0:01 and at 1:23:02 I not see cdn03.plentymarkets.com/a3572c0uie7d/item/images/14209/full/us-8-1.png
how is clear marked as unifi brand in opposite to your switch in video. Clear marked PoE ports.
@@OldLordSpeedy The switch you linked is the US-8, the switch in the video is the USW-Lite-8-PoE, they are different models. It does have a UniFi logo on the top (which is just about visible at 20:34) however it is a grey logo on a white switch that is being filmed in a relatively dark environment with a bright light shining off the top of the switch, as a result it is a bit overexposed and the logo doesn't show up on camera that well. At any rate, even if it weren't a UniFi switch, there would be absolutely nothing wrong with that!
Next time you use that cable sock use a lighter to melt the ends to stop the ends fraying
Is this install still viable without a super cute good boy dog assistant?
Hmm, not sure, he definitely helped out with inspecting (sniffing) all my tools and equipment and stealing offcuts of the flexible conduit
How can the cable tester know which end is the problem?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time-domain_reflectometer
@@aaronmdjones cool!
You should have patched that Openreach ONT into that spare cable in the trunking. Then you wouldn't need that extra cable coming in.
That would have been my plan, but my friend said he'd rather have it as a separate cable so I went with that option.
@@camerongray1515 That makes sense, otherwise excellent install.
Stupid question, but why did you mess with the conduit? Is that UK code or something?
It's not required but I just wanted to try it out since in theory it would make replacing/adding cables much easier in the future. Based on the experience I probably wouldn't use it absolutely everywhere again but I'd definitely be inclined to use it in locations where I'm likely to want to pull in new cables in the future without having to open up walls again.
Pine sol is your friend. Coat the cable as you feed it into to conduit. Reduced the friction and allows you to pull more cables in a single conduit.
My theory says the builders knew that cable was defective, and they wrote it off as a phone cable. 🤔 It's odd that they'd have just one phone line running to the living room behind the TV of all places.
new builds are easier to work on but i wouldn't swap for a proper brick made house from the 60s. it reminds me of American homes.
It's a tricky one. I totally understand how an older building will feel more solid but my fear of sticking to that is that construction is never going to go back to that so it's a case of either move to a more modern construction building eventually or forever be tied to living in an older property. I think for me I'd value the ease of maintenance over anything - being able to easily swap out/add cables and plumbing with barely any damage is great vs having to chase walls and create huge amounts of damage to add a simple socket. Think my preference would be for a place that uses brick for the main structure (rather than timber framed like most new builds) but then plasterboard stud walls for most of the internal walls. However, unfortunately I can't really see this being an option without self-building which isn't really financially viable in most cases.
He is actually checking out the holes if they are fit to hide a big juicy bone.
The white cable under the floor looks like a intruder alarm cable.
I thought that however the alarm is wireless so I'm honestly pretty stumped, I've also since figured out that it's not the doorbell as the doorbell itself takes 230v over T&E then connects to the bell push using CAT5e. I'm half tempted to check next time I'm there so it stops bugging me not knowing!
@@camerongray1515 what about the bell box that can be wired?
It could be I suppose but I'd be surprised if they'd gone to that effort given they literally wired the panel into a plug
Wincing to see the ends of the braided sleeve fraying so much where you just cut them, rather than using a hot knife to seal either end...
I didn't have any sort of hot knife or lighter available. I'm hoping that cable tie should stop any sort of major fraying extending up the braid and the ends themselves shouldn't really see any sort of movement. Suppose taping it might also help given that I don't care about what the part of it that sits inside the cabinet looks like. Something to bear in mind for next time when I'm sorting out tools for a job to make sure I have something suitable to hand but I'm not too worried.
What did he say????
Where next you are going to cut
:)
1:07:20 OMG! Funny in a country how test and check every normal power cable (50 Hz!) with test-equipment but specially Cat6-cables with 250/500 MHz? Do you crashed Cat6-cables ... unbelievable. 😱
Not quite sure what you mean. The test equipment used on mains wiring has nothing to do with the frequency - it tests things such as continuity and insulation resistance, more as a safety check than anything else. For the network testing here I'm using a continuity and TDR tester. I'd love to be able to test and certify them fully but given those testers are £5000+, it's not something I can justify for what is literally a hobby/DIY project. As for the bend in the trunking, sure it's not ideal but it's not really that tight at all - that trunking is around 100mm wide and those runs are relatively short so I'd be amazed if it was to cause any sort of issue.
I was happy to watch this until one minute in, then then then!!!!!!! I got mad!!!!! DO you know why! ITS BECAUSE YOU DIDN'T LET US KNOW THE NAME OF THE DOGGO"!!!!!!!! :'(
Lmfao your just obsessed with those grommets huh? Just can’t stop talking about them. 1:26:11 was the best part “grommets still in place” lmfao yup didn’t think they grew a pair of legs and walked off. 😂😂😂😂
This was my first time doing anything in a house with metal stud walls so I was trying to figure out an approach for protecting the cables live on camera. As for them still being in place - if you've worked with rubber grommets for any length of time, you'll have experienced them popping out on their own through movement of the cable, and with this particular setup, I was worried they'd fall out and then end up sliding down into the wall and be a complete pain to get back again.
Bundy10
I literally found myself referring to the flexible conduit as "bundy10" in my head while installing it
Have you considered splitting such long videos into multiple episodes? 90 minutes can be quite long to consume in one sitting sometimes and since RUclips does not provide a good way of saving the position in a video (automated or manual) I had to put this video on "Watch Later" two days ago. Most creators on here tend to keep their videos around 30 minutes max, maybe that's something to consider for the future? Anyway brb in 90 minutes, got a home network install to watch :)
I considered it but with a video like this it can be tricky since it's not really filmed in any sort of sensible order and plans tended to change part way through. The most I could really have done here would have been just stopping part way through and telling people to wait for part 2 where I'd much rather break it up into separate sections with distinct videos. I'd have probably done it had I had more time but with this project I ended up having several days less than I had originally planned for it. Definitely something I'll bear in mind for the future though
first time i had to set the video speed to slower, dude! stop this mumbling, boAH of woAH!
It's like the house seems so old like everything used. It's like gross like the carpet, the metal, nothing's put in right nothing's like fresh. It just seems like old wood like just old, I don't know how you do it Out there in the u. K., but in America it's like brand new 2030 s***
Do you have any actual examples of what you're talking about? The house was probably around a year old at the time of making this video so of course would show some signs of having been lived in. What are you seeing in this video that is "like gross" or not "put in right?" This house is completely standard for a modern timber framed house with metal stud partition walls.
That's the longest porn video I've ever watched
Also no one buys gigabit connection in the UK. At least not of 5 June 2022
I managed to get gigabit via FTTP for £42p/m
I definitely wouldn't say "no one" - sure it's relatively uncommon and often not necessary but in FTTP areas it's usually not super expensive. Providers such as Hyperoptic are also commonplace in modern apartment buildings which offer reasonably priced Gigabit connections.
What wrong with make all that bullshit runs outside
In this house we wouldn't have been able to get cables from the understairs cupboard to outside easily as it's a semi-detached house and the cupboard is not on an external wall. In some situations yes it is possible to take cables up the outside of the building (here we could have possibly joined a single cable at the back of the media panel which was on the external wall and taken it up the outside to the attic and added a switch upstairs to serve those ports) however this can be unsightly and would require some sort of large ladder/platform to get up high enough outside. On the other hand, patching a few bits of plasterboard is trivial so running it through the internal walls isn't a huge problem.
the build quality of that house is atrocious