I agree with you. I currently own 14 (I think) push and riding mowers. Of the ones I currently have, all but four of them came out of someone's trash. All but one of them are currently running, and the other one will when I can find a parts machine. I love taking them out of someone's trash and putting them back to work. Most mowers end up in the trash due to ignorance, lack of maintenance, or both. Most of the time it is just a minor issue.
I recently acquired a Toro with the same Briggs engine as the Troy Bilt in this video. The choke was jammed shut when I got it. I forced it open with a screwdriver and removed the plate, then reinstalled it. Now it doesn't close completely. Is that a common issue with this engine?
I picked up a 2008 Craftsman self propelled mower recently. Despite it's age, this mower has only been used once or twice. The paint on the underside of the deck is near perfect. It has dust guards on the front wheels that are identical to the mower that you showed at the beginning of this video. The guards are very loose. They are loose enough that there was a big chunk of wood jammed between one of the guards and the wheel when I got it. They rattle around when it is running, and I can't really determine what is causing it or how to deal with it. The chunk of wood that was stuck in the wheel was about an inch in diameter, so I would be hesitant to sell it without addressing this issue, since that could cause problems for the new owner when I do sell it. What causes it, and is there anything I can do to tighten them up? I have never run into this before.
to get a better understanding of what you're dealing with, I'd like to get the model number of the mower, otherwise the answers will be quite general. I'm guessing but the "guards" you're talking about the plastic piece the overs over the drive gears on the back of the wheels? If so, I would take off the wheel and compare what you see with the parts diagrams. There might be something missing or broken. Also have you confirmed that the noise you're hearing is from that wheel or someplace else?
I really enjoyed this video. I hope to see more like this. I value your opinions and I also like it when content creators take the time to address comments. Keep up the good work.
I recently made a deal with a scrapper that is paying off big time. He sells me push mowers for $6. He has brought me five in the last month, and I was able to get three of them running for less than $10 each. The other two need work, but they are valuable enough to make it worthwhile to repair them, at least in my opinion.
I can’t get non ethanol fuel within 80 miles, so I use 94 octane with stabil marine. I don’t keep fuel more than four months, when it hits that I pour what’s left in my Jeep. Then replace. For storage I empty tanks and run them dry and remove carb bowl and make sure it’s dry.
In my part of Australia at least old lawnmowers are recycled. There's also a recycling centre where aged pensioners or retirees repair unwanted old lawnmowers then they sell them to the general public !
I’m pretty sure that the John Deere trimmer is an Echo so it should be fairly easy to get parts for. You can look at the engine size and and cross reference it to an SRM or GT. If you want the plastics it’s a different story.
Hello what you said battery powered mowers is true they are useful if your project is small but for bigger areas it's a waste I have a 80 volt kobalt mower and I can cut for at least 30mins on a full charge and for that it all depends on how well you keep up your lawn I have a side jobs cutting grass and I tried BP instead of a gas mower and boy I hate I did. So my question is what ever BP mower you get is it best to purchase more batteries ? Just to let you know I sold it and going back to gas cause like you mentioned it depends on the brand .your videos are very easy to get information because you explain every detail so your videos are great I had a mower that I fixed watching your repairs thanks your the best Alfred and to clear up what I said you mentioned is if I can get a BP mower for a good price I will buy another
thank you very much I appreciate the comment. If the batteries are "affordable" then yes, I'd consider buying spares. However, mowers with decent power, will have expensive batteries and they're never worth replacing them. They want you to buy a new mower with the battery and charger.
Changed out fuel lines and filter on my Poulan Pro 200LE blower vac. Starts and runs then it bogs down like its out of girl. I also can't find the recommended valve clearances for my 2013 Bolens 500e. Any ideas?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE haven't found anything. Not listed on b & s engine for 500e anywhere. I saw a RUclips stating the same problem in trying to find the specs. His was .004-.008 for both intake an exhaust. I've tried several variations. I will consider replacing carb on blower but think it's a loose fuel line.
3:13 I understand why it’s hated… why does a weedwacker have to be 4 stroke??? It’s just more complicated for something that could easily be 2 stroke. Honestly as a clumsy person that would just be 1 more thing for me to forget to change the oil 😂😂😂
@ that kinda makes sense but if you don’t wanna mix fuel than you sound like the type of person that doesn’t like getting dirty so then I’d recommend electric tools because anything with an engine will make you smell like exhaust lol 😂 You don’t wanna know how often I came home just for my mom to tell me “you stink like 2 stroke” I don’t know why she doesn’t like that smell because if there was a perfume with 2 stroke smell I’d rock it all day every day 😂😂😂
And a generator has got to run a certain speed to get their voltage and 60-cycles right and THAT is where your gas goes. You can't slow it down to save gas and expect your voltage not to be low and burn stuff up. It'll happen. Appliances are designed to run on 110 volts, 60 cycles. Low voltage won't get it AT all.
using aviation fuel/avgas is not a good idea in modern engines due to the amount of lead in it also you the user would be directly exposed to lead since the exhaust is in close proximity to the user
I've never messed with an electric mower. If it is on a 12 volt system, I would just rig it to run of a battery with a larger capacity than these overpriced batteries that they come with, but then again, it's a moot point since I will never own a battery powered mower.
I know this might sound off coming from me, but If you get a chance, give the battery jobs a try. It's not going to replace gas, but there "is" something about them that's quite convenient.
Hey bro what's up? From all the different topics on those various equipment, my choice would also be the battery powered mower however my choice would be fossil fuel equipment.
good choice, it also worries me mainly because they're not built to last or to be serviceable. They're cheap and when the break, they want you to buy a new one. More money for them
you're right, I can explain it now. it's like the expiration date on your milk. It's better if you drink it before then and if you don't make it in time, the milk will sour. The EPA 50 hour compliance is the same thing. It's basically stating that the machine will meet the standards set by them for at least 50 hours. After that, it should get dirtier. Most consumers won't care about this number, but if they see it, and realize that a more expensive machine has a rating of 250 or even 300 hours, they typically assume that means it'll last longer. It really doesn't mean that though .
@ gotcha. Does this include the “durability sticker also?” My hyper tough blower has a sticker saying “durabilty period: 50 hours” is this the same thing?
The battery jobs are all we have now but we went with gas till we had to switch or hire someone else to do our yard and THAT is a fortune in itself. We would also use other brands than our preferred but all we really needed was to get the job done and poverty is a great contributing factor. And maintenance is still a big factor and will always be unless you like buying new stuff all the time. Happy week.
totally understand about the money aspect, a lot of people aren't rich. I like battery it's super convenient but I'm hoping it'll get better performance
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE What are your thoughts on this? I believe if the manufacturers would abandon lithium ion and go with lithium iron phosphate, batteries, which have a much higher cycle count up to 4000 which would give you an average of 10+ years. Also, I believe they are tougher in general when it comes to the elements. I might be sold on a battery powered mower in that scenario. Correct where I’m wrong.
wow, you're asking for an entire video to answer this, because is a complex question to answer. In my opinion, they don't want them to last more than a handful of years. They expect the batteries to be left in the machines, over the winter and loose capacity if not die, during long term cold storage. Also, if you look up replacement parts, aside from bumps stops, blades, and batteries, they don't seem to want to support a "repair" mentality, only a "replacement one". Remember this is my opinion, I have zero facts to support this. Like I mentioned though, I really like using my battery mower, to bad the replacement batteries cost as much as a new mower. otherwise I'd buy a new pair so I can get a full 45 minute run time out off them instead of 15 minutes.
I will say John Deere trimmers are very rare but if I had one that stoped working I would just completely replace the trimmer witch sucks bc of house rare they are and yes I always try to save a old machine on the side of the road every time I can and when I can’t it’s just too bad
@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I was that way for a while, but I realized I was spending more fixing them than I would if I spent a few extra bucks up front. There are a lot of deals to be had this time of year, they get Christmas money and I get... stuff.
Electric 'tools' have their place. Cordless drill or cordless circular saw is the only way to go. Especially the saw. That cord can be a hazard. An electric mower, for me depends on the size of the lawn and or my location. It still should always be one's choice. None of these items should be mandated.
I am concerned about battery equipment overtaking the market; however, at the present time, I am more concerned about the possibility of upcoming political actions driving up prices and lowering the availability of what has become an affordable source of parts to keep my older/existing equipment running. I don’t appreciate being forced to give up on my older, good quality, well maintained equipment just to purchase new, lower quality machines that are not only overpriced but that I have little faith in their durability because of someone else’s choices about what I can purchase based on it’s origin of manufacture.
I agree with you. I currently own 14 (I think) push and riding mowers. Of the ones I currently have, all but four of them came out of someone's trash. All but one of them are currently running, and the other one will when I can find a parts machine. I love taking them out of someone's trash and putting them back to work. Most mowers end up in the trash due to ignorance, lack of maintenance, or both. Most of the time it is just a minor issue.
you got that right, that means you're doing a service, getting them back in working order.
I recently acquired a Toro with the same Briggs engine as the Troy Bilt in this video. The choke was jammed shut when I got it. I forced it open with a screwdriver and removed the plate, then reinstalled it. Now it doesn't close completely. Is that a common issue with this engine?
no it is not common, I would check the linkages and levers on top of the carb for a problem
I picked up a 2008 Craftsman self propelled mower recently. Despite it's age, this mower has only been used once or twice. The paint on the underside of the deck is near perfect. It has dust guards on the front wheels that are identical to the mower that you showed at the beginning of this video. The guards are very loose. They are loose enough that there was a big chunk of wood jammed between one of the guards and the wheel when I got it. They rattle around when it is running, and I can't really determine what is causing it or how to deal with it. The chunk of wood that was stuck in the wheel was about an inch in diameter, so I would be hesitant to sell it without addressing this issue, since that could cause problems for the new owner when I do sell it. What causes it, and is there anything I can do to tighten them up? I have never run into this before.
to get a better understanding of what you're dealing with, I'd like to get the model number of the mower, otherwise the answers will be quite general. I'm guessing but the "guards" you're talking about the plastic piece the overs over the drive gears on the back of the wheels? If so, I would take off the wheel and compare what you see with the parts diagrams. There might be something missing or broken. Also have you confirmed that the noise you're hearing is from that wheel or someplace else?
I really enjoyed this video. I hope to see more like this. I value your opinions and I also like it when content creators take the time to address comments. Keep up the good work.
I appreciate that!
I recently made a deal with a scrapper that is paying off big time. He sells me push mowers for $6. He has brought me five in the last month, and I was able to get three of them running for less than $10 each. The other two need work, but they are valuable enough to make it worthwhile to repair them, at least in my opinion.
you found yourself a golden goose!!!! You're extremely fortunate
Keep up the good work, one of or if not, the best channel ever ....
Thank you, I appreciate that a lot!
I can’t get non ethanol fuel within 80 miles, so I use 94 octane with stabil marine. I don’t keep fuel more than four months, when it hits that I pour what’s left in my Jeep. Then replace. For storage I empty tanks and run them dry and remove carb bowl and make sure it’s dry.
I like you method! Have you ever considered trying to separate the the ethanol?
In my part of Australia at least old lawnmowers are recycled.
There's also a recycling centre where aged pensioners or retirees repair unwanted old lawnmowers then they sell them to the general public !
ah nice!
I’m pretty sure that the John Deere trimmer is an Echo so it should be fairly easy to get parts for. You can look at the engine size and and cross reference it to an SRM or GT. If you want the plastics it’s a different story.
I think you're right, but there's still a problem, you'll then be looking for older echo parts, which is also, not easy to find at a decent price.
I got a john deere trimmer like that I could use a gas cap
I think you'll have luck with the gas cap, I think they used them on other machines
Hello what you said battery powered mowers is true they are useful if your project is small but for bigger areas it's a waste I have a 80 volt kobalt mower and I can cut for at least 30mins on a full charge and for that it all depends on how well you keep up your lawn I have a side jobs cutting grass and I tried BP instead of a gas mower and boy I hate I did. So my question is what ever BP mower you get is it best to purchase more batteries ? Just to let you know I sold it and going back to gas cause like you mentioned it depends on the brand .your videos are very easy to get information because you explain every detail so your videos are great I had a mower that I fixed watching your repairs thanks your the best Alfred and to clear up what I said you mentioned is if I can get a BP mower for a good price I will buy another
thank you very much I appreciate the comment. If the batteries are "affordable" then yes, I'd consider buying spares. However, mowers with decent power, will have expensive batteries and they're never worth replacing them. They want you to buy a new mower with the battery and charger.
Changed out fuel lines and filter on my Poulan Pro 200LE blower vac. Starts and runs then it bogs down like its out of girl. I also can't find the recommended valve clearances for my 2013 Bolens 500e. Any ideas?
@timtweet8149 maybe adjust the carb ?
Have you considered replacing the carb on the blower? On the mower, I would use .005" for both as a compromise to the range they state
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE haven't found anything. Not listed on b & s engine for 500e anywhere. I saw a RUclips stating the same problem in trying to find the specs. His was .004-.008 for both intake an exhaust. I've tried several variations. I will consider replacing carb on blower but think it's a loose fuel line.
I hope you find what you're looking for and good luck
3:13 I understand why it’s hated… why does a weedwacker have to be 4 stroke??? It’s just more complicated for something that could easily be 2 stroke. Honestly as a clumsy person that would just be 1 more thing for me to forget to change the oil 😂😂😂
I know what you mean, but for some, mixing fuel is something they do not want to do.
@ that kinda makes sense but if you don’t wanna mix fuel than you sound like the type of person that doesn’t like getting dirty so then I’d recommend electric tools because anything with an engine will make you smell like exhaust lol 😂
You don’t wanna know how often I came home just for my mom to tell me “you stink like 2 stroke” I don’t know why she doesn’t like that smell because if there was a perfume with 2 stroke smell I’d rock it all day every day 😂😂😂
LOL!!! I really like this comment a lot! In fact, "you stink like 2 stroke" should be on a T-shirt!
@ well, I can’t agree more🤣 I’d buy 7 of them so I can wear one every day
LOL!!!
i like jondeer mowers better than weed trimmers
agreed
And a generator has got to run a certain speed to get their voltage and 60-cycles right and THAT is where your gas goes. You can't slow it down to save gas and expect your voltage not to be low and burn stuff up. It'll happen. Appliances are designed to run on 110 volts, 60 cycles. Low voltage won't get it AT all.
so very true
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Bloodshot eyeballs again you know.
using aviation fuel/avgas is not a good idea in modern engines due to the amount of lead in it also you the user would be directly exposed to lead since the exhaust is in close proximity to the user
Aviation fuel? Do people actually use that in their power equipment? why?
ah yes, I forgot about the lead content
you'd have to ask them, I'm going to guess they think it's better.
I've never messed with an electric mower. If it is on a 12 volt system, I would just rig it to run of a battery with a larger capacity than these overpriced batteries that they come with, but then again, it's a moot point since I will never own a battery powered mower.
I know this might sound off coming from me, but If you get a chance, give the battery jobs a try. It's not going to replace gas, but there "is" something about them that's quite convenient.
Hey bro what's up? From all the different topics on those various equipment, my choice would also be the battery powered mower however my choice would be fossil fuel equipment.
good choice, it also worries me mainly because they're not built to last or to be serviceable. They're cheap and when the break, they want you to buy a new one. More money for them
@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE it's probably cheaper in USA but in the Caribbean here it'll cost you an arm and a leg.
oh yeah I keep forgetting about regional cost differences
I have an echo pb2520 Where can I get parts for it
I would use Ereplacementparts dot com .
You didn’t explain the 50 hour thing printed on machines or the durability period. Can you please explain that in a video?
you're right, I can explain it now. it's like the expiration date on your milk. It's better if you drink it before then and if you don't make it in time, the milk will sour. The EPA 50 hour compliance is the same thing. It's basically stating that the machine will meet the standards set by them for at least 50 hours. After that, it should get dirtier. Most consumers won't care about this number, but if they see it, and realize that a more expensive machine has a rating of 250 or even 300 hours, they typically assume that means it'll last longer. It really doesn't mean that though .
@ gotcha. Does this include the “durability sticker also?” My hyper tough blower has a sticker saying “durabilty period: 50 hours” is this the same thing?
I've never seen a "durability" sticker, but If I had to guess, I would say Yes, it's the same thing.
The battery jobs are all we have now but we went with gas till we had to switch or hire someone else to do our yard and THAT is a fortune in itself. We would also use other brands than our preferred but all we really needed was to get the job done and poverty is a great contributing factor. And maintenance is still a big factor and will always be unless you like buying new stuff all the time. Happy week.
Do you live in California or an area that has banned all gas mowers? We still have new battery and new gas mowers available.
@@UhBuddy1976 Not yet. Our switch was because of health reasons, or lack thereof.
totally understand about the money aspect, a lot of people aren't rich. I like battery it's super convenient but I'm hoping it'll get better performance
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE What are your thoughts on this? I believe if the manufacturers would abandon lithium ion and go with lithium iron phosphate, batteries, which have a much higher cycle count up to 4000 which would give you an average of 10+ years. Also, I believe they are tougher in general when it comes to the elements. I might be sold on a battery powered mower in that scenario. Correct where I’m wrong.
wow, you're asking for an entire video to answer this, because is a complex question to answer. In my opinion, they don't want them to last more than a handful of years. They expect the batteries to be left in the machines, over the winter and loose capacity if not die, during long term cold storage. Also, if you look up replacement parts, aside from bumps stops, blades, and batteries, they don't seem to want to support a "repair" mentality, only a "replacement one". Remember this is my opinion, I have zero facts to support this. Like I mentioned though, I really like using my battery mower, to bad the replacement batteries cost as much as a new mower.
otherwise I'd buy a new pair so I can get a full 45 minute run time out off them instead of 15 minutes.
I will say John Deere trimmers are very rare but if I had one that stoped working I would just completely replace the trimmer witch sucks bc of house rare they are and yes I always try to save a old machine on the side of the road every time I can and when I can’t it’s just too bad
you and me both!
4 cycle trimmers are too much work for something that won't run on its side. When I see one. I walk. Even if it's free and new.
I like your standards! Like a fool, I grab most anything for free and then it's my problem to deal with.
@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I was that way for a while, but I realized I was spending more fixing them than I would if I spent a few extra bucks up front.
There are a lot of deals to be had this time of year, they get Christmas money and I get... stuff.
I like the way you put that.
Electric 'tools' have their place. Cordless drill or cordless circular saw is the only way to go. Especially the saw. That cord can be a hazard. An electric mower, for me depends on the size of the lawn and or my location. It still should always be one's choice. None of these items should be mandated.
I like the way you put it.
I am concerned about battery equipment overtaking the market; however, at the present time, I am more concerned about the possibility of upcoming political actions driving up prices and lowering the availability of what has become an affordable source of parts to keep my older/existing equipment running. I don’t appreciate being forced to give up on my older, good quality, well maintained equipment just to purchase new, lower quality machines that are not only overpriced but that I have little faith in their durability because of someone else’s choices about what I can purchase based on it’s origin of manufacture.
I see your point, don't worry, when money Is on the line, it won't go away, the prices might go up, but I don't think they'll disappear
Hello
hey what's up