Speaking as a marine engineer: Your problem is that the free surface effect of the oil creates a fundamentally imbalanced system. Once it gets a little bit off, the oil flows to that side and exacerbates the problem. This is not how marine fuel centrifuges are built; They have a system of concentric cones that he oil has to flow past on its way through, and the system is completely oil filled with no entrapped air. I looked into building my own for filtering vegetable oil for my car, but given the amount of precise sheet metal work that needs to be perfectly balanced, it is by far cost effective to just buy a salvaged unit from a shipbreaker.
Yeah but there's nothing wrong with the basic design of his centrifuge. There are thousands such open bowl centrifuges running perfectly well. I'm sure it's just a question of rigidity here. The bowl is usually turned from a large aluminum billet and the shaft and bearings much beefier.
@@skunkjobb Show me a consumer grade juicer with a bowl machined from billet aluminum, I want to see that price tag lol They generally use a process called metal spinning, same way pop cans are made just different shape and thickness. If you're saying people modified them by machining a bowl out of aluminum and making a more rigid mounting then the juicer is flawed to start with as the OP stated. You could run the oil through a multi stage filter setup with a very fine micron filter as the last stage since those filters cost more. But all this work to burn about a gallon of oil from his car then thinned with gasoline in an old pickup is not worth it.
We have an old Belarus farm tractor that has a centrifuge oil filter installed from the factory. When we went to clean it the walls inside of the centrifuge would have a dry layer of dirt and soot we would scrape and wipe off. Definitely different than the paper oil filaments of today.
Когда инженеры Минского тракторного завода проектировали Беларусь, у них было понимание что в стране, где трактор может просто с фермы до поля ехать 20-30 километров, потенциальная поездка за бумажным фильтром машины-технички, которая сопровождает трактор в поле - это потенциальная потеря рабочего времени трактора и тракториста. Хотя и тогда в местных мастерских нередко добавляли обычный бумажный в качестве пост-фильтра, так лучше для двигателя.
That's a really cool idea. Makes me think about how I used to run my grandfather's mower on propane, and that's when I learned propane never puts soot into the oil. Had that same oil for 12 years now.
Check out the hydrogen water fuel cell cars they never dirty the oil either. Imagine the resources saved and environmental aspect if this tech was allowed!
@@GodAlwaysWins7 yea there's also plasma ignition and magnetic resonance for massive gain what Nikola Tesla was doing. Sympathetic resonance = unlimited gain
Just remember that there’s more to motor oil than just oil. Rust inhibitors. Friction modifiers. Stuff that gets used/worn out over time. Even if it looks clean it might still need to be changed.
My high school teacher told us he had a grease barrel filled with sawdust. He had a tap at the bottom and would pour his used oil in there. After a while it would start flowing out the bottom and he used it in his mower and other small engines. He claimed it came out looking like new!
At first reading this, I felt it would be BS, but after some "advanced" thinking I wonder if it could act like a simple water filter you make in nature with charcoal, sand and such. But instead of sawdust, iy most likely have to be shavings from wood, and also some kind of screen. Or else it should still come some shavings out with the oil. The great thing with this idea is that when you need to exchange the wood shavings you could use them for easier making a fire.
@@sykoteddy The idea of oil impregnated wood shavings or sawdust has already been experimented with and works great! Think about a hydraulically pressed sausage stuffer that oozes out a continuous long solid "turd" or brick that can then be cut to any length and thrown directly in a fire box.
It's very good you show what didn't work so well also, saves someone else from trying it. I wouldn't dare running it in my workshop. What if it goes ballistic, then the whole place will be a Jackson Pollock oil painting.
@@skunkjobb And I am starting to think that a good copy of a Jackson Pollock might actually add some serious unexpected value to that workshop...You never know what people will buy when it comes to "Art"..
Those older motors will run on almost anything that a diesel can burn. But, in the winter, it's better to have tw tanks, on for diesel and the main for homemade. Start on clean diesel, switch to main, switch back to diesel for shutdown. If you use vegi oil, it helps to have a heater in that the tank. My buddy has a small motorbike radiator in the tank that runs off the motor. He's got a bit of a Frankenstein setup, but only buys about 80 liters of diesel a year for his truck to go about 30,000 kilometers a year, and the temp does get down to -25C , older Toyota fj landcruiser
Хитрые польские дальнобойщики - причина почему в Германии литр растительного масла в магазине никогда не будет дешевле литра дизельного топлива. Вы понимаете о чём я.
When you drilled the cap, it reminds me of when a old school mechanic taught me "when pouring brake fluid, or just opening the bottle, one screw driver hole in the safety seal will help you keep from dripping brake fluid. Which (hopefully) we all know, brake fluid eats paint. 😊😊😊😊😊😊
I knew a guy that ran an 6x6 Army truck off used motor oil. He would pick up totes for free at oil change shops around town every 3 months or so. I think he just filtered it a few times if I remember right. The Truck could run on diesel, kerosene, gasoline or motor oil, engine was designed to run on almost anything and had different settings for the engine that you could switch depending on what you wanted to use. It had good power with the motor oil, that truck could push down big trees and was a blast in the bush.
I have both a m35a2 deuce and half and m925 5 ton, 6x6's military trucks, one has a multi fuel engine that was designed to run on anything flammable and the other has a Cummins 855, I run used oil threw centrifuge, then add 10% regular pump gas to thin out and ability to run in winter. I've been running these trucks of wmo for decades, I heat my house and shop with it also. I run 2 military diesel generators off of wmo and gas also. Those trucks actually run smoother and more power running wmo in them.
@@staym925 We had so much fun with that 6x6 truck, it was a beast. I think he mixed the oil with something but I can't remember. That thing was reliable and it would start in any weather. It could go through 2 feet of snow no problem.
@@staym925 Hey are you using a centrifuge to get it really clean? And how do you heat the house? Is that just a diesel burner or did you get a burner specific for waste oil? I'm thinking of getting a diesel burner and adding a preheater to the fuel line.
@thedillestpickle I use a spinner II centrifuge that's normally used on heavy trucks, and I used a fuel oil (diesel) oil burner and converted it to run on waste oil, it uses a different style nozzle, air from a air compressor or air pump. I only preheat the oil by using stainless lines that are in a zigzag pattern up against the stove side, so it gets heated up before it gets injected.
Nice!! Anyone else doing this. A good way to hold the aluminum out to the sides while the glue dries. Put a lawn mower or wheel barrow tire tube in it and pump it up. It holds them perfectly while the glue dries.
@@sixtyfiveford Лучше использовать керосин. В моей стране зимнее дизельное топливо на четверть состоит из керосина, позволяет технике работать при -40 С за бортом.
Very entertaining Moe. My brother in law collects used cooking oil from the local restaurants and heats his home and hot water with his home made burner. He looked at making a centrifuge but decided to stick with the gravity method. It’s slow but works well as all the gunky sludge, bits of fried food and water settles to the bottom of the 20 litre cans. He lets them sit for a couple of months and strains and pours the clean oil off the top. This gets transferred to a large 250 litre oil tank that used to hold heating oil where further settlement occurs. He’s got a funny set up where he has a 10’ length of 6” steel pipe with a 1/2” copper tube coiled around the outside of it and the whole lot is wrapped in insulation. This was then buried in the ground at a slightly upward angle and the burner placed at the low end. The burner is home made and used an old VW oil pump driven through bicycle sprockets and chain to a small electric motor so the pump runs slowly to drip feeds the burner. He’s also fitted automatic cutouts so if the flame goes out the pump shuts off and if the whole thing catches fire the pump shuts off. Of course all this is outside with the burner in a little shed. It a burns very clean with virtually no smoke but the whole area smells like a fish n chip shop. He’s fitted old school radiators throughout his home and it’s a closed system he has set up with two pipes, the first delivers hot water to a radiator and a second is a seperate return line so every radiator gets the same temperature hot water and he can control the flow of hot water to each radiator individually without effecting the others. He’s a clever bugger but you can tell he’s single by the amount of junk everywhere. Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
Some tractors have centrifugal oil filter installed from the factory. They use oil pressure itself and 2 small jets to spin the thing. You may want to look around for these.
Great video! I laughed so hard when you first fired it up and the imbalance got out of control, because it's ALL part of "experimenting" with a new system! I have been making my own fuels from absolute "junk" since the 1990's and was delighted to see your Volkswagen truck at the very end. I had restored a super lightweight '82 with a turbo eco-diesel I swapped in, along with a long legged 5 speed. It was like driving a go cart and got way over 50 miles per gallon on all the CRAP I fed it. I collected EVERYTHING I could get my hands on, to use as fuel. Including waste oils from engines, transmission fluid, vegetable oils, contaminated ag fuels, furnace oil, etc. I had more than I could ever burn. The key to long injector life and smooth clean running is making as pure a "fuel product" as possible. Centrifuge is GREAT idea but I would pre-purify the oil a little bit more, before doing that step. Let gravity do it's job for a month or 2 in a cone bottom tank, and get out most all of the heavy stuff. Siphon off the top and run through a 5 or 10 micron gravity filter and then centrifuge it. Run that product through a final 1 micron pressure filter system to make it perfect. If you pre "cut" the raw waste oil with a 10 percent solvent like kerosene or gasoline, along with heating it from the sun, it will lower the initial viscosity, and every stage will filter much more efficiently. Take care of that old truck, and feed her the "good stuff" !!
I like watching all 65's videos to learn what new thing he has figured out. This was the first one I recall getting to see the process of figuring it out. I think it was vastly more educational in the demonstrated challenges and methods he used to overcome them. It definitely had more in the way of entertainment value too, starting with that first "NOPE!" that sounded so familiar to the ones I usually hear coming from my own mouth as an experiment goes sideways in a unexpected hurry. I would have liked to see the one that got cut out, I imagine due to his tourette's that got triggered by the chaos that likely transpired with a quickness. This is already one of my favorite videos from him and I'm only half through. I just had to stop and say this when I saw the comments you made about the experimenting process.
@@KilSmiley Lol, you would have laughed your ass off following me around with a video camera 35 years ago. Before there was Internet, and interest groups, and free easy ways to share information about what works (and more importantly) what doesn't. I was living way off grid making my own power with a trusty old generator in the middle of the woods, with "vague theories" about Rudolph Diesel and his early patent designs and fuels. My early "experiments" with trying to get my expensive diesel generator to run on vegetable oils I was digging out from a dumpster, were "amusing" but eventually successful. I think I had at least 25 jars of various fuel "recipes" going at any given time in various extreme temperature conditions. Once I knew how to reliably make my generator "happy", I made my little antique Volkswagen pickup truck and Jetta happy too. It was a long learning curve, with a LOT of "humorous and labor intensive mistakes" along the way. But this shit WORKS, and I sleep a lot better at night knowing that if the conventional fuel infrastructure of the world fails or disappears, I Don't GIVE A FUCK!
@David-f2j4b that's incredible. I remember hearing stories about a couple different people back then who would go around to different restaurants grease dumpster to get the fuel for their car on some cross country trips, but eventually the stories just kinda fizzled out. It's inspiring to know it wasn't just a fad that disappeared. I believe there are many different alternatives to the socially accepted "way it's done" that just need some creative thinking skills backed up by a lack of fear of failure. I heard it said before that failure doesn't have to exist if you learn something from the experience and those lessons are the ones that stick with you the longest cause you remember the embarrassing mistake. I know from personal experience the truth of that. It's always good to be able to laugh at harmless errors so you don't take things so seriously that disappointment doesn't prevent the lesson from being learned.
@@KilSmiley you made me laugh so hard I literally choked on my coffee. You mention "Creative thinking skills backed up by a lack of fear of failure" Sounds really good on paper.. I was once a young man, living in the woods on a 40 acre nature preserve. No way in, except on foot or snowmobile. My cabin ran on self generated power, which I used to make, every 3 or 4 days to feed my large battery banks. (This was long before solar was economical to put in.) So I relied 100 percent on my little diesel generator for actual survival. (If that gen set went down for any reason, I got a real life problem real fast.) I had a library of many wise men who had gone before me, men like Tesla and Rudolph Diesel. So I knew quite a bit of stuff about quite a bit of "stuff". And old Rudolph designed his engine and patent theory around vegetable oil fuels. Which interested me quite a bit, because I knew where endless quantities of this waste junk was just being dumped in a big green dumpster about 5 miles away. So I went and got me some of that stinky liquid gold, and put it in some plastic jugs and brought it home. And then I just thought for a few days on how I was going to put it in my precious and expensive generator. So I filtered, and filtered, and filtered some more, until I got it to pass through 1 micron socks. And I kept thinking about Diesel's theory and why this "should" or " might" work. And I had welded up a simple heat exchanger that used the generator exhaust heat to preheat my dumpster oils, and make it thin like water. So after a couple days of just thinking, I was making my usual 2 hour generator run, and all the veg oil stuff was hooked up. And the temp gauge for the oil got over 120F and I had about 5 beers and a little smoke in me trying to get the courage to throw that very last valve. Because turning the last valve cut off the "diesel fuel' and diverted "free dumpster shit" squeezed from vegetables directly into my gen set. Yes there was fear!! Fucking dulled by large amounts of alcohol.. But I did it, because I had already put a lot of stinking effort into this stupid project, and I had to know.. 1 minute 2 minutes 3 minutes Nothing is happening. But I can smell it.. The engine doesn't seem to care that I have completely changed it's diet. It's just fucking stupid.. It doesn't even know... I drink another beer, smoke another smoke, waiting for it to puke, or SOMETHING. But it never does, for another 2 hours. After that, it was testing in Volkswagen's, and those engines were stupid too. They just ate that shit right up as long as it was prepared right. And now here we are on this thing called an "Internet", passing down these "secrets and techniques" to young folk, just like they have been passed down generations before...
Centrifugal separators were originally used to purify oil on ships. The separators were later adapted for use in the dairy industry. Yes, old milk and cream separators can be converted into used oil centrifuges because they both use centrifugal force to separate liquids.
I had one of those juices in the 90s. Thy sold filter paper filters to make clean up easier. If I remember correctly, the unit cost 600 or 800 dollars. When you over fed them they got squirrelly, as seen in this video.
Back in the 90's they used to sell recycled oil for 1 dollar a quart, if you had beater that leaked or used oil it seemed a logical buy. It smelled like death and your vehicle soon followed.
Back in the late 90's/early 2000's I used to do mail in rebates for oil and would pay sub $1.00/qt. If I recall msrp was around $3 which felt like a lot. Most autoparts stores would sell a new quart for 0.89cents after mail in rebate and always had rebate under half a dozen family members names. I would buy a few cases/rebate limit every year. Then one day those rebates just stopped and never came back.
Good morning! If you cut a strip of construction paper, you can use it to line the wall of the centrifuge and trap all the debris. Makes cleaning out the bowl a lot easier.
I love how you said," i just put a wade of tape on one side, i just guess" 😂If you knew the amount of guess work that i have went through life doing without fancy equipment youd be astonished 😂 i never ever in my life have used a level besides to check my work and so far i have never EVER been off. Most of the time i just know its perfect level and send someone else to set a level on whatever it is i hung or built.Its CRAZY how my brain just levels shit. Also i almost NEVER do math. I guestimate. Even shopping. If i have $300 to spend my brain just guesses and im ALWAYS litterally 1 cent MAYBE 2 cents off. I have no idea how it happens i guess after you do something for so long its just part of your chemical make up 😊
On a slightly different note. Years ago I used to use an old milk bottle (from UK) to bleed the brakes and most times it was black as hell where it was old and had obviously been contaminated by the seals. Anyway I just used to leave it on the floor inside the shed meaning to throw it out later. I noticed after a few days it had seperated and looked like brand new fluid and all the black contaminated fluid and water had sunk to the bottom of the bottle. In the end I used to reuse it in my own cars. Probably still had a bit of water in it as it's hygroscopic but looked new and I never had any trouble or brake fade with it.
Here's an idea that may be worth looking into. The bowl holds a large amount of oil and that causes the machine to become off balance. What if you were to put material into the bowl to fill that space up. My thought is something like a 3M floor buffing pad material. The oil could migrate through the pad to the outer wall and the up and out of the bowl. Since the buffer pad would fill a majority of the space, similar to the fruit pulp when running as a juicer, that could prevent the large amount of liquid to collect in the bowl and cause it to become unstable. This means you wouldn't have to drill holes into the top of the bowl. Just a thought.
OK, time for class about oil. It doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty and the additives evaporate or bake out. At least that's what I was taught back in the 1960's when I was an engineman on diesel submarines in the USN. We didn't change oil except during major overhauls. I was on boats that had both 16 278A's (GM Diesels) and 38D 8 1/8 Fairbanks Morris Engines. We ran Sharples purifiers 4 hrs out of every 12 hrs. Sharples spin at 40,000 RPM and we had 2 of them in each engine room, one for fuel oil that ran continuously when the engines were running and one for the engine oil. The oil always looked like new oil. However, when cleaning out the canister of the purifier at the end of the 4 hr shift there would be anywhere from 1/2" to 1" of carbon slung against the sides of the canister which was about 4" in diameter and about 2' long. It reminded me of really thick tar paper and the carbon particles were so fine that it was literally months until it all came out of my hands and fingerprints (no examination gloves in those days). We sent in oil samples on a regular basis (SOS) and would add different chemicals to keep up ph balances etc. About the black carbon oil you are mixing in your fuel....think about how long the bearings in your engine would last if you never changed oil. Carbon is what nature makes diamonds from, very hard and if not abrasive then good at cutting and scraping. How fast will it wear down the polished, close tolerances of your injectors or injection pumps depends totally upon the richness of your mixture, but it will over time cause a loss in pressure output. In other words, If I had a brand new diesel pickup or highway tractor, I wouldn't even consider mixing it in, BUT...I run a lot of older Cat, Cummins and Detroit Diesel motors in my mining equipment and run 1 gal. of well filtered used oil to 100 gal. of No.1 or No.2 diesel and have been doing it for many years. So far no problems except that there is a bit more horsepower due to there being more btu's in motor oil, so its not your imagination that your little pick up runs better. A friend of mine runs 50/50 mix after pumping warm used oil thru a Luberfiner filter in a D7E and at 1200 hrs all is still ok. Too risky for my blood tho. BTW, Sharples and De Lavals are still available but last I checked ran from $20,000 to $40,000 for a reconditioned unit.
The reason why it is running a bit better is because there is a bit more energy in a liter (or gallon) of motoroil compared to diesel. The smoother running is also noticeable when running vegerable oil mixes, cheers
Just buy a pa biodiesel small centrifuge and use a small pump and run it threw that, they sell cheap kits, its worth it. Ive tried many things to do this exact filtering and it doesn't do the job you need to filter oil, especially if thicker or cold. I use two spinner II centrifuges and filter 7000 gals of oil in a year, i run it in a m35a2 and m925 military trucks, i run in 2 military trucks, and heat house and shop with wmo. Ive been running in everything for decades. Also helps if add 10% regular pump gas.
You can get inline centrifugal oil filters for around $300 (Spincraft and others). You'll need a pump to drive them. I used a power steering pump driven by an electric motor years ago to use my setup to filter used oil to burn in an oil heater. Periodically you unscrew the filter housing and scoop out the accumulated sludge with a spatula.
I don't know if it would work for used engine oil, but gelatin mixed with warm water and gelled, and then mixed with used cooking oil binds with the particulates of the used cooking oil. You let it sit for a day, and then pour off the clarified oil. It may work with the used motor oil, but if you really wanted to be on the safe side, you could make a final filter with a combo of SS mesh screen (or cotton fabric) and activated carbon/charcoal and some clean sand.
In days gone by used engine was filtered, slowly, by having 1 container with dirty oil, a manilla rope, and a 2nd container to catch the cleanish oil. The rope simply looped out the top of both containers. I always figured a wider lower catch container would work quicker. There are lots of examples of his on line. Good luck. Btw, I have access to crude oil. It appears to have the consistency of home heating oil. It would be interesting to try it in a similar diesel or an oil furnace. I get nat gas for heating and sell the oil.
A quick Google search will lead you to countless forums of guys that do this all the time. I'm sure there's countless Blackstone before and after testing with a centrifuge.
@sixtyfiveford with a real centrifuge, not with an old juicer and pop can. Im curious to see how the diy method compares numbers wise to an expensive one.
@@TheOneTrueHeavyI know but you can just do the math really fast like I did. It spins at a confirmed 3,560 RPM with a 7-in diameter hopper. The charts I looked up show that that spins about 1300 g's which is right on par with all of the commercial ones. So they do the exact same thing. This just does it on roughly 1/4 of the scale.
@7:20 My wife saw and I said dont worry about it cracked me up 🤣 Now I need a juicer like that all on ebay are in the USA and different voltage and 60Hz here were 240v 50Hz Hmm. Love the video
I have been fascinated with those centrifugal creme separators since I was a kid and used to hand crank the one my grandmother had. Very cool machines with a high spin rate, even if you do it by hand. They are very common and easy to buy if you are from a "dairy state" like Wisconsin or probably all over the Midwest. 50 to 300 dollars will easily buy a nice working antique. They have about a 6 inch stainless centrifuge, perfectly balanced and mounted on heavy weighted cast iron fixture. Your kids would love it.
You can clean motor oil with plant gelatine, add hot water to gelotine then to motor oil mix let it settle and go hard. It capturing particals, removes clean oil, and removes gelatine disc from bottom of container with contaminants in it.
Been doin this for years, 7.3 powerstrokes and T444Es love waste oils, I burn trans, brake, hydraulic, any kind of petro oil. I don't have a high pressure fuel pump but rather my injectors get powered by high pressure oil so I can feed it dirty fuel, sometimes I've not even bothered to filter it lol.
For a predrain of the oil , i put a quart of cheapo trans fluid to thin the oil and get the detergents to clean engine of crud.then run it for a week. I would use kero (diesel 1) As the thinner mix , and do that before centrifuge to help the particles drop out
I've had good luck sealing up gasoline tanks with "PC-7". It's a two part epoxy and it's a miserable pain in the ass because it's a sticky putty mess, but it holds up to every chemical I've exposed it to.
I used Por 15 tank sealer. It's liquid like paint, not a putty and used on the inside of the tank. After four years in diesel, it still looks like the day I applied it. The mess came when the hose popped off my sprayer so I painted the roof above the tank too.
This would be useful for someone to run a oil furnace for heating their home in winter. If you are going to try that my friend gets his used oil from the transmission shops as it is much cleaner usually. He then just runs it through several filters. But the addition of a centrifuge would be even better.
The problem is you can't filter well with filter media. Maybe you can get down to 2 microns with expensive filters but that will quickly clog and you'll have to change out filters constantly. . The centrifuge by itself in this setup will clean under one micron indefinitely.
when oil is used, there is more than physical contaminants that present problems. The oil actually breaks down. The only way I know to investigate it for molecular degradation is to send a sample out for testing. it isn't terribly expensive, and it can really matter when one is looking at fleets and hydraulics. But most of us just toss it. I mix it with kero and sawdust and it is my fire starter. a cup of the stuff will start a fire. no kindling needed.
The reason it's running smoother with oil, is usually due to reduced ignition speed of thil fuel mix. Your injectors opening pressure most likely have dropped to around 100 bar due to the normal spring aging, which means your engine runs with excessive advanced timing (Injectors open earlier than they should) Therefore this hard sound and the improvement with the oil mixture.
For next video we want to see a scaled up version!! Do a washing machine on ultra spin cycle, filled with concentric layers of different kinds of "filter material". (maybe take suggestions from your audience) A course grade inner circle of 100 microns where the oil is dripped in, and proceeding through various reduction sizes until it gets to 1 micron (or less if you can do it) at the high speed outer ring. Rig up a variable voltage transformer off your 240v mains, and keep cranking up the input voltage and consequential spin rate, to observe the resulting flow and filtering characteristics and efficiencies, as it relates to increased RPM's and centrifugal forces. Keep pushing, keep pushing, until you find the precise point of failure, and the whole thing blows apart under extreme load!!! The rest of us can learn exactly WHERE the critical "point of no return" occurs, as it relates to common household centrifuges. (Be sure to Wear safety googles in case of RUclips rules, and to set a good example for the "young folk" who may be watching)
Part of the problem for the vibration is the metal you added. It has thrown the balance off. The fluid is supposed move throw the little holes you covered. A home made filter of some sort placed around and have the centrifugal force move the oil and filter it that way. It might have been easier with less problems. Oh and using rubber mounts to along with the screws would also help with the vibrations.
😂😂😂 Dad dad its running way bouncing of the walls oil everywhere looking like a crime scene ,wife walks up bowl hits her in the head... and she just stares at you as your life flashes before your eyes and you start contemplating your mortality. Yeah I want this😊
Heh heh cold start, here in Michigan we got gale force winds and feels like single digits and my ginormous Willow tree is still holding half its leafs .. I don't know why but it always refuses to give em up until 2nd week in Dec.
The issue with filters is the clog easily and the cost generally offsets the savings. The centrifuge filters to a much greater degree and aren't a consumable. Generally a filter will go down to 10 micron or if you pay a lot more maybe 2 micron. A centrifuge is known to filter under 1 micron.
@samstone2007 it's not a fail, it's "Let's try domething else." Moe is a real to life "Edison Renaissance" man. The idea is dound, so let's make it work. As always, GREAT video, especially since Ginger makes a cameo appearance.
13:46 My personal opinion firstly you mast putting drop by drop, second and most importantly is that stainless steel part inside which is spinning is weak, can't holding that amount of weight... must be straightening with some rings, thick sheet of plate on bottom and well balanced too.
The entire rotating must be dynamically balanced! If this cannot be done the rotating mass should be statically balanced before adding the oil. The spinning members are cantilever mounted placing large amounts of stress on the bearing.
"I warmed up a bit of oil on the kitchen stove" You'll probably need an in memoriam section at the end of the next video for those that tried this with less understanding women in the household 😢.
I used to run used motor oil as fuel in my Bobcat 320 mini excavator. It did quiet the engine down and it did run smoother. Never thought about using a centrifuge to filter it thought. We have almost 100 gallons of used oil laying around here. I'd like to use it as heat in a drip oil feed wood burner. Be careful about using gasoline in your diesels. The seals are not rated for gasoline.
Tried running well filtered WMO thru a common rail 5.9 Cummins w/a CP3 injection pump 15yrs & and it, unfortunately, created an insane amount of smoke, which drew wayyy too much attention & also made the truck smell like an oil refinery.
Pretty cool never thought about using a juicer i threw on away last year wasnt quit like that one thoe it had a cone screen never used it so dint even no it would have spinned ill have to look around storage i might not have theown it out but kinda think i did lol cats pussed on it
I would of lined the screen with some more stainless steel screen mesh with the tighest weave I could get, instead of trying it to go over the top. Amazon has the screen. .026 holes look for 500 mesh. Maybe even just screen the top inside 1 inch and have the lower solid so it has to climb, but wouldnt have to climb over the lip. But I like the thinking on this. Getting a diesel heater, and would be nice to incorporate some of the used oil, ive had sitting around. Been looking at ways to filter it.
That's filtering. A centrifuge beats filtering and doesn't clog. It forces the particles to settle out rather than filtering. The best oil filters generally only filter down to 20 micron. A centrifuge like here will filter to under 1 micron.
You always seem to cover interesting topics. I think I already watched the VW Truck video but it came up so I'll give it another watch. I have an 84 Mitsubishi turbo diesel and about 25 gal of used vegetable oil that I'm going to run 50/50 with diesel. Any thoughts, experience or concerns using veg oil. I've used the used veg oil and it is true that it smells like French Fries! Thanks for the video and ideas and keep up the good work. Oh yeah, I think I seen you do the air valve to spray can mod - I did that and it worked fine. Just avoid the brass colored cheap Chinese valve stems that aren't really brass at all - not good... Thanks!
No personal experience, only stuff I've researched. Waste Vegetable Oil or as the forums call it WVO is way stickier, gummier, and has glycerin's that like to gum up stuff. You can actually convert it to a way cleaner product with some lye and a little ethanol if I recall. Ends up removing all the glycerin and costing under a $1 to make very usable fuel. Of course every diesel engine is a little different and some don't ever care what they ingest. Personally I would feel comfortable at maybe up to 20-25% without doing anything and only in warmer months. Yes I found out about the brass colored not brass valves. I had no idea they did this until a year or so ago.
centrifuges can spin the carbon out. Look at centrifuge bypass filter. Most of them are powered by oil pressure. Maybe try one of those with a pump. Not sure how many passes through it would take to come out clear, but it does turn it clear and you can reuse the oil if it tests good. It leaves a ring of "cake" in the filter drum.
Yes, but those have the filter media as a consumable. They are just using the G force to press the oil through the filter. They're not really using the centrifuge like their intended. Your talking a $10,000+ investment for a setup like this and really only pays off on huge scale.
Wonder if the lid can be modified, and modify an oil filter to bolt down on the inside under that nylon nut... to filter under the centrifugal force.. or maybe the filter will throw it off balance even more.. Or use micro screen instead of soda cans to filter it under centrifugal force.. the ideas are flowing now..
The oil will only find it's level in the centrifuge, the drum has to be balanced still. I think if you ran many batches of wmo through it then you'd notice a lot more gunk left over.
I loved how you saved that old VW truck. It will probably be running when most others are junk. People need to watch that video series. Glad you linked it.
It's only become more worth over time as well. Over in Sweden we used to have many some 20 years back, now I rarely see one at all. If you can find one they are expensive like hell, not as expensive as the baybus but not far from it.
@@sykoteddy still have mine trying to sort out the injection pump Uggg....let it sit too long and the primary pump veins got stuck. Now after several times rebuilding it It wont rev over like 2000 rpm. Cant figure it out.
@Mikefngarage I have several old injection pumps that I have no need for, if you are anywhere near the STL area maybe we can get together and you can have them.
I am still impressed with how you took the warp out of the head of that diesel engine because it now sure sounds perfect. Yoda says Ginger deserves an extra treat because she is so cute 😍. Thanks for the video 👍
@@Mikefngarage I'm sorry to hear that, I'm not great at car mechanic stuff, I've only filtered veggie oil for my friend. You must make sure to heat up the veggie oil when it gets too cold. Many say you need to have 2 tanks, one with regular diesel and one with veggie oil so you can start up the car on regular and change when it's warm. Try to use a ultrasonic cleaner and be sure to use hot water or some solvent that is preheated. I sadly don't have any other idea's.
If you are having balance issues just reduce the centrifugal mass... AKA use a shorter spin disk, to do this cut the wall half way down cut a slit in the discarded piece fit back in place (On the inside if done to outside of spinning rotor it will detonate) jb weld or use desired glue. I would jb weld those holes and thin it out by pressing a piece of paper against the holes and that slit you made then rebalance again after it dries of course. Only reason why you would be slinging that much oil around will be if you are seperating literal pounds of insoluble solids. Remember you are only separating different densities with that gravity separator.
The reason they use clap boards is to have a visual and audible que for aligning sound. You should do this as well, to make sure your audio and visual is in sync. None of your problem that people like me get triggered heavily by such small discrepancies, but it just makes for much higher quality content. Anyway. Not a bad start for filtering old oil.
If you don't get the carbon out, it will eventually stick to the injector tips (from the combustion - not from passing through the injectors) and cause a poor spray pattern. It will start to smoke. As long as you are OK with pulling your injectors and cleaning them every 500-1000 miles or so, it's not a problem. Some vehicles are easier to do it with than others.
Not true at all. You won't get the carbon out no matter what you try. Literally thousands of guys have documented experiences running WMO well over 100,000 mi upwards of half a million without ever having to worry about coking the injectors. Many of the guys don't do anything besides pour straight into the fuel tank directly after draining it from the motor.
Here are my 2 cents. If you put some small ball bearings in the juicer like they use to self balance a tire would it work better? I would also have started by running it as a juicer and then measure the weight of the contents of the juicer(pulp) and see how much oil in volume would be a similar weight. That calculation might give you a better idea of the max weight volume the machine can handle. The manufacturer might have used this calculation in the designing of the juicer. You could then try and strengthen the bearing holders in the base. My other thought was to manufacture a nut to replace the nylon one with a shaft out the top of it which could be held by the lid as an extra bearing surface add a cheap bearing to inside of the lid for it to seat in. You would probably need to machine that new nut so it is in balance. You might be able to design it in software to print in a 3d printer.?
If only you had released this video 4-5 days ago! I found a big Centrifuge in a dumpster but it was too heavy for me alone to lift out of the dumpster. It was like 30” x 30” x 14” probably 160-180lbs. I was going to have a buddy go help grab it but got busy with family. Ps. I'm here in Salt Lake City
Dang, that would have been a score. I cracked a rib years ago trying to lean over and extract something from a dumpster that was way too heavy. Love a good dumpster find.
I would have cut up a pair of jeans and lined the inside up with that instead blocking the holes with the tin can. The denim is going to filter quite well
Sir, I'm in the middle of watching your video and have paused it to share an idea... maybe adding some of those small porcelain balancing beads that balance tires would do the trick.
3:03 I got that same disc, didn't know what it was for. It came with a hyper tough angled die grinder. Appreciate ya. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
Common rail injector tolerances are so incredibly tight, might be more trouble than what it's worth. One thing's for sure, don't run this through any truck with a DPF.....lol
I will also add that running these types of "fuels" are more tolerant in older, fully mechanical type injection systems with no computers and sensors involved to complain about what you are feeding it. OLD TECHNOLOGY IS RELIABLE and more simple to maintain!
Speaking as a marine engineer: Your problem is that the free surface effect of the oil creates a fundamentally imbalanced system. Once it gets a little bit off, the oil flows to that side and exacerbates the problem. This is not how marine fuel centrifuges are built; They have a system of concentric cones that he oil has to flow past on its way through, and the system is completely oil filled with no entrapped air. I looked into building my own for filtering vegetable oil for my car, but given the amount of precise sheet metal work that needs to be perfectly balanced, it is by far cost effective to just buy a salvaged unit from a shipbreaker.
that kind of sounds like how the old milk & cream separators where built.
@@seenithere Exactly and that's how marine oil centrifuges are still made. Actually by the same company that invented the milk separator Alfa-Laval.
Yeah but there's nothing wrong with the basic design of his centrifuge. There are thousands such open bowl centrifuges running perfectly well. I'm sure it's just a question of rigidity here. The bowl is usually turned from a large aluminum billet and the shaft and bearings much beefier.
Whats the easiest way to make biod? From what Ive seen I just need lye and methanol.
@@skunkjobb Show me a consumer grade juicer with a bowl machined from billet aluminum, I want to see that price tag lol They generally use a process called metal spinning, same way pop cans are made just different shape and thickness. If you're saying people modified them by machining a bowl out of aluminum and making a more rigid mounting then the juicer is flawed to start with as the OP stated.
You could run the oil through a multi stage filter setup with a very fine micron filter as the last stage since those filters cost more. But all this work to burn about a gallon of oil from his car then thinned with gasoline in an old pickup is not worth it.
We have an old Belarus farm tractor that has a centrifuge oil filter installed from the factory. When we went to clean it the walls inside of the centrifuge would have a dry layer of dirt and soot we would scrape and wipe off. Definitely different than the paper oil filaments of today.
Когда инженеры Минского тракторного завода проектировали Беларусь, у них было понимание что в стране, где трактор может просто с фермы до поля ехать 20-30 километров, потенциальная поездка за бумажным фильтром машины-технички, которая сопровождает трактор в поле - это потенциальная потеря рабочего времени трактора и тракториста. Хотя и тогда в местных мастерских нередко добавляли обычный бумажный в качестве пост-фильтра, так лучше для двигателя.
@@JustOneFeather Thank you for telling me this as we always liked the system. We did change the oil reularly. We still have the tractor.
That's a really cool idea.
Makes me think about how I used to run my grandfather's mower on propane, and that's when I learned propane never puts soot into the oil. Had that same oil for 12 years now.
Check out the hydrogen water fuel cell cars they never dirty the oil either. Imagine the resources saved and environmental aspect if this tech was allowed!
Stan Meyer water powered car is a good one
@@GodAlwaysWins7 careful mate I think your tin foil hat fell off
@@GodAlwaysWins7 yea there's also plasma ignition and magnetic resonance for massive gain what Nikola Tesla was doing. Sympathetic resonance = unlimited gain
Just remember that there’s more to motor oil than just oil. Rust inhibitors. Friction modifiers. Stuff that gets used/worn out over time. Even if it looks clean it might still need to be changed.
My high school teacher told us he had a grease barrel filled with sawdust. He had a tap at the bottom and would pour his used oil in there. After a while it would start flowing out the bottom and he used it in his mower and other small engines. He claimed it came out looking like new!
Interesting.
Famous last words, I need to overflow the top😅
Shi
At first reading this, I felt it would be BS, but after some "advanced" thinking I wonder if it could act like a simple water filter you make in nature with charcoal, sand and such. But instead of sawdust, iy most likely have to be shavings from wood, and also some kind of screen. Or else it should still come some shavings out with the oil. The great thing with this idea is that when you need to exchange the wood shavings you could use them for easier making a fire.
@@sykoteddy The idea of oil impregnated wood shavings or sawdust has already been experimented with and works great! Think about a hydraulically pressed sausage stuffer that oozes out a continuous long solid "turd" or brick that can then be cut to any length and thrown directly in a fire box.
It's very good you show what didn't work so well also, saves someone else from trying it. I wouldn't dare running it in my workshop. What if it goes ballistic, then the whole place will be a Jackson Pollock oil painting.
Or just put it in a 5 gallon bucket with lid as safety backup, lol
You could then add a little colour to the arrangement with Mr Bean accelerated deployment.
@@skunkjobb And I am starting to think that a good copy of a Jackson Pollock might actually add some serious unexpected value to that workshop...You never know what people will buy when it comes to "Art"..
Those older motors will run on almost anything that a diesel can burn. But, in the winter, it's better to have tw tanks, on for diesel and the main for homemade. Start on clean diesel, switch to main, switch back to diesel for shutdown. If you use vegi oil, it helps to have a heater in that the tank. My buddy has a small motorbike radiator in the tank that runs off the motor. He's got a bit of a Frankenstein setup, but only buys about 80 liters of diesel a year for his truck to go about 30,000 kilometers a year, and the temp does get down to -25C , older Toyota fj landcruiser
The veggie oil has a completely different beast. A lot of the worries completely go away when you mess with old motor oil.
Хитрые польские дальнобойщики - причина почему в Германии литр растительного масла в магазине никогда не будет дешевле литра дизельного топлива. Вы понимаете о чём я.
When you drilled the cap, it reminds me of when a old school mechanic taught me "when pouring brake fluid, or just opening the bottle, one screw driver hole in the safety seal will help you keep from dripping brake fluid.
Which (hopefully) we all know, brake fluid eats paint.
😊😊😊😊😊😊
I knew a guy that ran an 6x6 Army truck off used motor oil. He would pick up totes for free at oil change shops around town every 3 months or so. I think he just filtered it a few times if I remember right. The Truck could run on diesel, kerosene, gasoline or motor oil, engine was designed to run on almost anything and had different settings for the engine that you could switch depending on what you wanted to use. It had good power with the motor oil, that truck could push down big trees and was a blast in the bush.
I have both a m35a2 deuce and half and m925 5 ton, 6x6's military trucks, one has a multi fuel engine that was designed to run on anything flammable and the other has a Cummins 855, I run used oil threw centrifuge, then add 10% regular pump gas to thin out and ability to run in winter. I've been running these trucks of wmo for decades, I heat my house and shop with it also. I run 2 military diesel generators off of wmo and gas also. Those trucks actually run smoother and more power running wmo in them.
@@staym925 We had so much fun with that 6x6 truck, it was a beast. I think he mixed the oil with something but I can't remember. That thing was reliable and it would start in any weather. It could go through 2 feet of snow no problem.
@@staym925 Hey are you using a centrifuge to get it really clean? And how do you heat the house? Is that just a diesel burner or did you get a burner specific for waste oil? I'm thinking of getting a diesel burner and adding a preheater to the fuel line.
@thedillestpickle I use a spinner II centrifuge that's normally used on heavy trucks, and I used a fuel oil (diesel) oil burner and converted it to run on waste oil, it uses a different style nozzle, air from a air compressor or air pump. I only preheat the oil by using stainless lines that are in a zigzag pattern up against the stove side, so it gets heated up before it gets injected.
I tried this out. Works great!!! But my wife is complaining her carrot juice tastes funny.
@@hosocat1410 😂
Wait...your wife needs a reason to complain 😂
*She won't complain sixtyfiveford makes one that sluices out gold from black sand :-)*
Boomer humor folks
She'll get used to it ....
Nice!! Anyone else doing this. A good way to hold the aluminum out to the sides while the glue dries. Put a lawn mower or wheel barrow tire tube in it and pump it up. It holds them perfectly while the glue dries.
I think the owner manual for my 1980’s diesel Land Cruiser has instructions for making emergency fuel. 30W oil mixed with gasoline.
Make sense. The owner's manual for the VW says to mix 25% gas with diesel in the winter time.
Ah yes the good old days.before this modern garbage they have forced upon us
@@sixtyfivefordWhat about a Suitmate, bathing suit centrifugal spinner. I've seen them, used, on Fakebook Marketplace
@@sixtyfiveford Лучше использовать керосин. В моей стране зимнее дизельное топливо на четверть состоит из керосина, позволяет технике работать при -40 С за бортом.
@@JustOneFeatherkerosene is very expensive here. 12 dollars a gallon
The force is strong in this one
Very entertaining Moe. My brother in law collects used cooking oil from the local restaurants and heats his home and hot water with his home made burner. He looked at making a centrifuge but decided to stick with the gravity method. It’s slow but works well as all the gunky sludge, bits of fried food and water settles to the bottom of the 20 litre cans. He lets them sit for a couple of months and strains and pours the clean oil off the top. This gets transferred to a large 250 litre oil tank that used to hold heating oil where further settlement occurs. He’s got a funny set up where he has a 10’ length of 6” steel pipe with a 1/2” copper tube coiled around the outside of it and the whole lot is wrapped in insulation. This was then buried in the ground at a slightly upward angle and the burner placed at the low end. The burner is home made and used an old VW oil pump driven through bicycle sprockets and chain to a small electric motor so the pump runs slowly to drip feeds the burner. He’s also fitted automatic cutouts so if the flame goes out the pump shuts off and if the whole thing catches fire the pump shuts off. Of course all this is outside with the burner in a little shed. It a burns very clean with virtually no smoke but the whole area smells like a fish n chip shop. He’s fitted old school radiators throughout his home and it’s a closed system he has set up with two pipes, the first delivers hot water to a radiator and a second is a seperate return line so every radiator gets the same temperature hot water and he can control the flow of hot water to each radiator individually without effecting the others. He’s a clever bugger but you can tell he’s single by the amount of junk everywhere.
Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
That's an impressive setup!
I absolutely love this channel! You're a smart guy and you do things that very very few youtubers or DIYers are doing.
I love that truck, dogs alright too
Some tractors have centrifugal oil filter installed from the factory. They use oil pressure itself and 2 small jets to spin the thing. You may want to look around for these.
They use centrifuge filters in mercedes diesel engines as well, i hated them as they had a high failure rate
Old SCANIA motors have centrifugal filters, an works awesome and last more than one million miles 😊
Very interesting to see you work through some challenges on this. Great proof of concept.
If anyone is planning on doing this definitely make sure your using ethanol free gas with your mixture
Great video! I laughed so hard when you first fired it up and the imbalance got out of control, because it's ALL part of "experimenting" with a new system!
I have been making my own fuels from absolute "junk" since the 1990's and was delighted to see your Volkswagen truck at the very end. I had restored a super lightweight '82 with a turbo eco-diesel I swapped in, along with a long legged 5 speed. It was like driving a go cart and got way over 50 miles per gallon on all the CRAP I fed it.
I collected EVERYTHING I could get my hands on, to use as fuel. Including waste oils from engines, transmission fluid, vegetable oils, contaminated ag fuels, furnace oil, etc. I had more than I could ever burn.
The key to long injector life and smooth clean running is making as pure a "fuel product" as possible. Centrifuge is GREAT idea but I would pre-purify the oil a little bit more, before doing that step. Let gravity do it's job for a month or 2 in a cone bottom tank, and get out most all of the heavy stuff. Siphon off the top and run through a 5 or 10 micron gravity filter and then centrifuge it. Run that product through a final 1 micron pressure filter system to make it perfect.
If you pre "cut" the raw waste oil with a 10 percent solvent like kerosene or gasoline, along with heating it from the sun, it will lower the initial viscosity, and every stage will filter much more efficiently.
Take care of that old truck, and feed her the "good stuff" !!
I like watching all 65's videos to learn what new thing he has figured out. This was the first one I recall getting to see the process of figuring it out. I think it was vastly more educational in the demonstrated challenges and methods he used to overcome them.
It definitely had more in the way of entertainment value too, starting with that first "NOPE!" that sounded so familiar to the ones I usually hear coming from my own mouth as an experiment goes sideways in a unexpected hurry.
I would have liked to see the one that got cut out, I imagine due to his tourette's that got triggered by the chaos that likely transpired with a quickness.
This is already one of my favorite videos from him and I'm only half through. I just had to stop and say this when I saw the comments you made about the experimenting process.
@@KilSmiley Lol, you would have laughed your ass off following me around with a video camera 35 years ago.
Before there was Internet, and interest groups, and free easy ways to share information about what works (and more importantly) what doesn't. I was living way off grid making my own power with a trusty old generator in the middle of the woods, with "vague theories" about Rudolph Diesel and his early patent designs and fuels.
My early "experiments" with trying to get my expensive diesel generator to run on vegetable oils I was digging out from a dumpster, were "amusing" but eventually successful. I think I had at least 25 jars of various fuel "recipes" going at any given time in various extreme temperature conditions. Once I knew how to reliably make my generator "happy", I made my little antique Volkswagen pickup truck and Jetta happy too. It was a long learning curve, with a LOT of "humorous and labor intensive mistakes" along the way.
But this shit WORKS, and I sleep a lot better at night knowing that if the conventional fuel infrastructure of the world fails or disappears, I Don't GIVE A FUCK!
@David-f2j4b that's incredible. I remember hearing stories about a couple different people back then who would go around to different restaurants grease dumpster to get the fuel for their car on some cross country trips, but eventually the stories just kinda fizzled out. It's inspiring to know it wasn't just a fad that disappeared. I believe there are many different alternatives to the socially accepted "way it's done" that just need some creative thinking skills backed up by a lack of fear of failure. I heard it said before that failure doesn't have to exist if you learn something from the experience and those lessons are the ones that stick with you the longest cause you remember the embarrassing mistake. I know from personal experience the truth of that. It's always good to be able to laugh at harmless errors so you don't take things so seriously that disappointment doesn't prevent the lesson from being learned.
@@KilSmiley you made me laugh so hard I literally choked on my coffee.
You mention "Creative thinking skills backed up by a lack of fear of failure"
Sounds really good on paper..
I was once a young man, living in the woods on a 40 acre nature preserve. No way in, except on foot or snowmobile. My cabin ran on self generated power, which I used to make, every 3 or 4 days to feed my large battery banks. (This was long before solar was economical to put in.) So I relied 100 percent on my little diesel generator for actual survival. (If that gen set went down for any reason, I got a real life problem real fast.)
I had a library of many wise men who had gone before me, men like Tesla and Rudolph Diesel. So I knew quite a bit of stuff about quite a bit of "stuff".
And old Rudolph designed his engine and patent theory around vegetable oil fuels. Which interested me quite a bit, because I knew where endless quantities of this waste junk was just being dumped in a big green dumpster about 5 miles away.
So I went and got me some of that stinky liquid gold, and put it in some plastic jugs and brought it home. And then I just thought for a few days on how I was going to put it in my precious and expensive generator.
So I filtered, and filtered, and filtered some more, until I got it to pass through 1 micron socks. And I kept thinking about Diesel's theory and why this "should" or " might" work.
And I had welded up a simple heat exchanger that used the generator exhaust heat to preheat my dumpster oils, and make it thin like water.
So after a couple days of just thinking, I was making my usual 2 hour generator run, and all the veg oil stuff was hooked up. And the temp gauge for the oil got over 120F and I had about 5 beers and a little smoke in me trying to get the courage to throw that very last valve. Because turning the last valve cut off the "diesel fuel' and diverted "free dumpster shit" squeezed from vegetables directly into my gen set.
Yes there was fear!!
Fucking dulled by large amounts of alcohol..
But I did it, because I had already put a lot of stinking effort into this stupid project, and I had to know..
1 minute
2 minutes
3 minutes
Nothing is happening.
But I can smell it..
The engine doesn't seem to care that I have completely changed it's diet.
It's just fucking stupid..
It doesn't even know...
I drink another beer, smoke another smoke, waiting for it to puke, or SOMETHING.
But it never does, for another 2 hours.
After that, it was testing in Volkswagen's, and those engines were stupid too. They just ate that shit right up as long as it was prepared right.
And now here we are on this thing called an "Internet", passing down these "secrets and techniques" to young folk, just like they have been passed down generations before...
Centrifugal separators were originally used to purify oil on ships. The separators were later adapted for use in the dairy industry.
Yes, old milk and cream separators can be converted into used oil centrifuges because they both use centrifugal force to separate liquids.
I had one of those juices in the 90s. Thy sold filter paper filters to make clean up easier. If I remember correctly, the unit cost 600 or 800 dollars. When you over fed them they got squirrelly, as seen in this video.
Back in the 90's they used to sell recycled oil for 1 dollar a quart, if you had beater that leaked or used oil it seemed a logical buy. It smelled like death and your vehicle soon followed.
I remember that crap, LOL
Back in 1963 rerun oil was 10¢ a quart, new oil was 30¢
Used to run that stuff. Truck burned and leaked a quart a week, no sense running new stuff and no sense changing the oil either.
We used to get it here in the UK and it was 99p (under a £) for a gallon (imperial gallon / 4.546 litres).
Back in the late 90's/early 2000's I used to do mail in rebates for oil and would pay sub $1.00/qt. If I recall msrp was around $3 which felt like a lot. Most autoparts stores would sell a new quart for 0.89cents after mail in rebate and always had rebate under half a dozen family members names. I would buy a few cases/rebate limit every year. Then one day those rebates just stopped and never came back.
Good morning! If you cut a strip of construction paper, you can use it to line the wall of the centrifuge and trap all the debris. Makes cleaning out the bowl a lot easier.
Soooooooo goooood I love the process and all your problemsolving along the way
I love how you said," i just put a wade of tape on one side, i just guess" 😂If you knew the amount of guess work that i have went through life doing without fancy equipment youd be astonished 😂 i never ever in my life have used a level besides to check my work and so far i have never EVER been off. Most of the time i just know its perfect level and send someone else to set a level on whatever it is i hung or built.Its CRAZY how my brain just levels shit. Also i almost NEVER do math. I guestimate. Even shopping. If i have $300 to spend my brain just guesses and im ALWAYS litterally 1 cent MAYBE 2 cents off. I have no idea how it happens i guess after you do something for so long its just part of your chemical make up 😊
Please make another video, cutting out all the failures and "learnings" and show what modifications work.
That little disc sander was sweet. Im get'n me one for Christmas
On a slightly different note. Years ago I used to use an old milk bottle (from UK) to bleed the brakes and most times it was black as hell where it was old and had obviously been contaminated by the seals. Anyway I just used to leave it on the floor inside the shed meaning to throw it out later. I noticed after a few days it had seperated and looked like brand new fluid and all the black contaminated fluid and water had sunk to the bottom of the bottle. In the end I used to reuse it in my own cars. Probably still had a bit of water in it as it's hygroscopic but looked new and I never had any trouble or brake fade with it.
Thank you for the video. Very informative and entertaining.
Here's an idea that may be worth looking into. The bowl holds a large amount of oil and that causes the machine to become off balance. What if you were to put material into the bowl to fill that space up. My thought is something like a 3M floor buffing pad material. The oil could migrate through the pad to the outer wall and the up and out of the bowl. Since the buffer pad would fill a majority of the space, similar to the fruit pulp when running as a juicer, that could prevent the large amount of liquid to collect in the bowl and cause it to become unstable. This means you wouldn't have to drill holes into the top of the bowl. Just a thought.
OK, time for class about oil. It doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty and the additives evaporate or bake out. At least that's what I was taught back in the 1960's when I was an engineman on diesel submarines in the USN. We didn't change oil except during major overhauls. I was on boats that had both 16 278A's (GM Diesels) and 38D 8 1/8 Fairbanks Morris Engines. We ran Sharples purifiers 4 hrs out of every 12 hrs. Sharples spin at 40,000 RPM and we had 2 of them in each engine room, one for fuel oil that ran continuously when the engines were running and one for the engine oil. The oil always looked like new oil. However, when cleaning out the canister of the purifier at the end of the 4 hr shift there would be anywhere from 1/2" to 1" of carbon slung against the sides of the canister which was about 4" in diameter and about 2' long. It reminded me of really thick tar paper and the carbon particles were so fine that it was literally months until it all came out of my hands and fingerprints (no examination gloves in those days). We sent in oil samples on a regular basis (SOS) and would add different chemicals to keep up ph balances etc. About the black carbon oil you are mixing in your fuel....think about how long the bearings in your engine would last if you never changed oil. Carbon is what nature makes diamonds from, very hard and if not abrasive then good at cutting and scraping. How fast will it wear down the polished, close tolerances of your injectors or injection pumps depends totally upon the richness of your mixture, but it will over time cause a loss in pressure output. In other words, If I had a brand new diesel pickup or highway tractor, I wouldn't even consider mixing it in, BUT...I run a lot of older Cat, Cummins and Detroit Diesel motors in my mining equipment and run 1 gal. of well filtered used oil to 100 gal. of No.1 or No.2 diesel and have been doing it for many years. So far no problems except that there is a bit more horsepower due to there being more btu's in motor oil, so its not your imagination that your little pick up runs better. A friend of mine runs 50/50 mix after pumping warm used oil thru a Luberfiner filter in a D7E and at 1200 hrs all is still ok. Too risky for my blood tho. BTW, Sharples and De Lavals are still available but last I checked ran from $20,000 to $40,000 for a reconditioned unit.
genius idea. I love your video. excellent show and tell !!!
The reason why it is running a bit better is because there is a bit more energy in a liter (or gallon) of motoroil compared to diesel. The smoother running is also noticeable when running vegerable oil mixes, cheers
Just buy a pa biodiesel small centrifuge and use a small pump and run it threw that, they sell cheap kits, its worth it. Ive tried many things to do this exact filtering and it doesn't do the job you need to filter oil, especially if thicker or cold. I use two spinner II centrifuges and filter 7000 gals of oil in a year, i run it in a m35a2 and m925 military trucks, i run in 2 military trucks, and heat house and shop with wmo. Ive been running in everything for decades. Also helps if add 10% regular pump gas.
Interesting right to the end.
Stay well, Joe Z
i really enjoyed the video and really thought it was quite informative. Thanks for taking the time to make it. Best Prayers & Blessings. Keith Noneya
You can get inline centrifugal oil filters for around $300 (Spincraft and others). You'll need a pump to drive them. I used a power steering pump driven by an electric motor years ago to use my setup to filter used oil to burn in an oil heater. Periodically you unscrew the filter housing and scoop out the accumulated sludge with a spatula.
I don't know if it would work for used engine oil, but gelatin mixed with warm water and gelled, and then mixed with used cooking oil binds with the particulates of the used cooking oil. You let it sit for a day, and then pour off the clarified oil.
It may work with the used motor oil, but if you really wanted to be on the safe side, you could make a final filter with a combo of SS mesh screen (or cotton fabric) and activated carbon/charcoal and some clean sand.
In days gone by used engine was filtered, slowly, by having 1 container with dirty oil, a manilla rope, and a 2nd container to catch the cleanish oil. The rope simply looped out the top of both containers. I always figured a wider lower catch container would work quicker. There are lots of examples of his on line. Good luck.
Btw, I have access to crude oil. It appears to have the consistency of home heating oil. It would be interesting to try it in a similar diesel or an oil furnace. I get nat gas for heating and sell the oil.
could you send in an oil sample to blackstone before and after filtering to see how much it reduced the trace metals? Id be interested to see it.
A quick Google search will lead you to countless forums of guys that do this all the time. I'm sure there's countless Blackstone before and after testing with a centrifuge.
@sixtyfiveford with a real centrifuge, not with an old juicer and pop can. Im curious to see how the diy method compares numbers wise to an expensive one.
@@TheOneTrueHeavyI know but you can just do the math really fast like I did. It spins at a confirmed 3,560 RPM with a 7-in diameter hopper. The charts I looked up show that that spins about 1300 g's which is right on par with all of the commercial ones. So they do the exact same thing. This just does it on roughly 1/4 of the scale.
Probly has something to do with that loose bearing lol
@7:20 My wife saw and I said dont worry about it cracked me up 🤣 Now I need a juicer like that all on ebay are in the USA and different voltage and 60Hz here were 240v 50Hz Hmm. Love the video
Others have said that a milk/cream separator does something like this. Not sure how common those are.
I have been fascinated with those centrifugal creme separators since I was a kid and used to hand crank the one my grandmother had. Very cool machines with a high spin rate, even if you do it by hand. They are very common and easy to buy if you are from a "dairy state" like Wisconsin or probably all over the Midwest. 50 to 300 dollars will easily buy a nice working antique. They have about a 6 inch stainless centrifuge, perfectly balanced and mounted on heavy weighted cast iron fixture. Your kids would love it.
Can't wait to see more on the machine and how it does
You can clean motor oil with plant gelatine, add hot water to gelotine then to motor oil mix let it settle and go hard. It capturing particals, removes clean oil, and removes gelatine disc from bottom of container with contaminants in it.
Been doin this for years, 7.3 powerstrokes and T444Es love waste oils, I burn trans, brake, hydraulic, any kind of petro oil. I don't have a high pressure fuel pump but rather my injectors get powered by high pressure oil so I can feed it dirty fuel, sometimes I've not even bothered to filter it lol.
Love your truck and your dog
Getting the hankering for a 5W 30W smoothie
Add a banana and some crunchy peanut butter and I’m there in a heartbeat! 😂👨🏻🍳👍
For a predrain of the oil , i put a quart of cheapo trans fluid to thin the oil and get the detergents to clean engine of crud.then run it for a week.
I would use kero (diesel 1)
As the thinner mix , and do that before centrifuge to help the particles drop out
I've had good luck sealing up gasoline tanks with "PC-7". It's a two part epoxy and it's a miserable pain in the ass because it's a sticky putty mess, but it holds up to every chemical I've exposed it to.
I used Por 15 tank sealer. It's liquid like paint, not a putty and used on the inside of the tank. After four years in diesel, it still looks like the day I applied it. The mess came when the hose popped off my sprayer so I painted the roof above the tank too.
Philadelphia experiment? Great Scott! could open a portal man. cool idea though
This would be useful for someone to run a oil furnace for heating their home in winter. If you are going to try that my friend gets his used oil from the transmission shops as it is much cleaner usually. He then just runs it through several filters. But the addition of a centrifuge would be even better.
I would have thought, you would have just lined the strainer with some nice industrial 1-ply to make a centrifugal version of a Frantz oil filter.
The problem is you can't filter well with filter media. Maybe you can get down to 2 microns with expensive filters but that will quickly clog and you'll have to change out filters constantly. . The centrifuge by itself in this setup will clean under one micron indefinitely.
when oil is used, there is more than physical contaminants that present problems. The oil actually breaks down. The only way I know to investigate it for molecular degradation is to send a sample out for testing.
it isn't terribly expensive, and it can really matter when one is looking at fleets and hydraulics. But most of us just toss it.
I mix it with kero and sawdust and it is my fire starter. a cup of the stuff will start a fire. no kindling needed.
Love that old diesel.
I used Seal-All inside of a cracked float bowl on my dune buggy.......I cannot believe it is STILL holding after 3 years!
The reason it's running smoother with oil, is usually due to reduced ignition speed of thil fuel mix.
Your injectors opening pressure most likely have dropped to around 100 bar due to the normal spring aging, which means your engine runs with excessive advanced timing (Injectors open earlier than they should) Therefore this hard sound and the improvement with the oil mixture.
For next video we want to see a scaled up version!! Do a washing machine on ultra spin cycle, filled with concentric layers of different kinds of "filter material". (maybe take suggestions from your audience)
A course grade inner circle of 100 microns where the oil is dripped in, and proceeding through various reduction sizes until it gets to 1 micron (or less if you can do it) at the high speed outer ring.
Rig up a variable voltage transformer off your 240v mains, and keep cranking up the input voltage and consequential spin rate, to observe the resulting flow and filtering characteristics and efficiencies, as it relates to increased RPM's and centrifugal forces.
Keep pushing, keep pushing, until you find the precise point of failure, and the whole thing blows apart under extreme load!!!
The rest of us can learn exactly WHERE the critical "point of no return" occurs, as it relates to common household centrifuges.
(Be sure to Wear safety googles in case of RUclips rules, and to set a good example for the "young folk" who may be watching)
Some of the over the road truck 30-40 years ago had something like that and they just used heavy paper to catch the impurities.
Some used toilet paper rolls.
Part of the problem for the vibration is the metal you added. It has thrown the balance off. The fluid is supposed move throw the little holes you covered. A home made filter of some sort placed around and have the centrifugal force move the oil and filter it that way. It might have been easier with less problems. Oh and using rubber mounts to along with the screws would also help with the vibrations.
I'm surprised it spun up while open unless you bypassed any safety system. great idea pretty much ready to go.
😂😂😂 Dad dad its running way bouncing of the walls oil everywhere looking like a crime scene ,wife walks up bowl hits her in the head... and she just stares at you as your life flashes before your eyes and you start contemplating your mortality. Yeah I want this😊
Heh heh cold start, here in Michigan we got gale force winds and feels like single digits and my ginormous Willow tree is still holding half its leafs .. I don't know why but it always refuses to give em up until 2nd week in Dec.
I saw a video where supposedly, a water filter cleaned used oil. Something such as a pitcher filter like a pure pitcher filter. Worth trying.
The issue with filters is the clog easily and the cost generally offsets the savings. The centrifuge filters to a much greater degree and aren't a consumable. Generally a filter will go down to 10 micron or if you pay a lot more maybe 2 micron. A centrifuge is known to filter under 1 micron.
21:15 After removing the grit I wonder if the oil can just be reused in your car?
...Smartest dude on youtube
Loved the fails man, makes me feel so much better about my own fails.
@samstone2007 it's not a fail, it's "Let's try domething else."
Moe is a real to life "Edison Renaissance" man. The idea is dound, so let's make it work.
As always, GREAT video, especially since Ginger makes a cameo appearance.
@samstone2007 right, nice to see the flaws shown. He's a professional tinkerer haha. Knows his stuff for sure
13:46 My personal opinion firstly you mast putting drop by drop, second and most importantly is that stainless steel part inside which is spinning is weak, can't holding that amount of weight... must be straightening with some rings, thick sheet of plate on bottom and well balanced too.
The entire rotating must be dynamically balanced! If this cannot be done the rotating mass should be statically balanced before adding the oil. The spinning members are cantilever mounted placing large amounts of stress on the bearing.
"I warmed up a bit of oil on the kitchen stove" You'll probably need an in memoriam section at the end of the next video for those that tried this with less understanding women in the household 😢.
My mom came home early one day and found my dad working on his Harley in the living room,
she was not impressed.
You could also push the panels against the wall with a small inner tube
@@walterrobbins4470 That is a good idea.
I used to run used motor oil as fuel in my Bobcat 320 mini excavator. It did quiet the engine down and it did run smoother. Never thought about using a centrifuge to filter it thought. We have almost 100 gallons of used oil laying around here. I'd like to use it as heat in a drip oil feed wood burner. Be careful about using gasoline in your diesels. The seals are not rated for gasoline.
Tried running well filtered WMO thru a common rail 5.9 Cummins w/a CP3 injection pump 15yrs & and it, unfortunately, created an insane amount of smoke, which drew wayyy too much attention & also made the truck smell like an oil refinery.
Pretty cool never thought about using a juicer i threw on away last year wasnt quit like that one thoe it had a cone screen never used it so dint even no it would have spinned ill have to look around storage i might not have theown it out but kinda think i did lol cats pussed on it
I would of lined the screen with some more stainless steel screen mesh with the tighest weave I could get, instead of trying it to go over the top. Amazon has the screen. .026 holes look for 500 mesh. Maybe even just screen the top inside 1 inch and have the lower solid so it has to climb, but wouldnt have to climb over the lip. But I like the thinking on this. Getting a diesel heater, and would be nice to incorporate some of the used oil, ive had sitting around. Been looking at ways to filter it.
That's filtering. A centrifuge beats filtering and doesn't clog. It forces the particles to settle out rather than filtering. The best oil filters generally only filter down to 20 micron. A centrifuge like here will filter to under 1 micron.
You need data on beginning oil and after juicer.
Could you do the same thing running through a polishing syster? Thanks
You always seem to cover interesting topics. I think I already watched the VW Truck video but it came up so I'll give it another watch. I have an 84 Mitsubishi turbo diesel and about 25 gal of used vegetable oil that I'm going to run 50/50 with diesel. Any thoughts, experience or concerns using veg oil. I've used the used veg oil and it is true that it smells like French Fries! Thanks for the video and ideas and keep up the good work. Oh yeah, I think I seen you do the air valve to spray can mod - I did that and it worked fine. Just avoid the brass colored cheap Chinese valve stems that aren't really brass at all - not good... Thanks!
No personal experience, only stuff I've researched. Waste Vegetable Oil or as the forums call it WVO is way stickier, gummier, and has glycerin's that like to gum up stuff. You can actually convert it to a way cleaner product with some lye and a little ethanol if I recall. Ends up removing all the glycerin and costing under a $1 to make very usable fuel. Of course every diesel engine is a little different and some don't ever care what they ingest. Personally I would feel comfortable at maybe up to 20-25% without doing anything and only in warmer months.
Yes I found out about the brass colored not brass valves. I had no idea they did this until a year or so ago.
centrifuges can spin the carbon out. Look at centrifuge bypass filter. Most of them are powered by oil pressure. Maybe try one of those with a pump. Not sure how many passes through it would take to come out clear, but it does turn it clear and you can reuse the oil if it tests good. It leaves a ring of "cake" in the filter drum.
Yes, but those have the filter media as a consumable. They are just using the G force to press the oil through the filter. They're not really using the centrifuge like their intended. Your talking a $10,000+ investment for a setup like this and really only pays off on huge scale.
Wonder if the lid can be modified, and modify an oil filter to bolt down on the inside under that nylon nut... to filter under the centrifugal force.. or maybe the filter will throw it off balance even more..
Or use micro screen instead of soda cans to filter it under centrifugal force.. the ideas are flowing now..
@@TimSpaw1leg A centrifuge filters better than any filter by itself and never clogs.
The oil will only find it's level in the centrifuge, the drum has to be balanced still. I think if you ran many batches of wmo through it then you'd notice a lot more gunk left over.
I loved how you saved that old VW truck. It will probably be running when most others are junk. People need to watch that video series. Glad you linked it.
It's only become more worth over time as well. Over in Sweden we used to have many some 20 years back, now I rarely see one at all. If you can find one they are expensive like hell, not as expensive as the baybus but not far from it.
@@sykoteddy still have mine trying to sort out the injection pump Uggg....let it sit too long and the primary pump veins got stuck. Now after several times rebuilding it It wont rev over like 2000 rpm. Cant figure it out.
@Mikefngarage I have several old injection pumps that I have no need for, if you are anywhere near the STL area maybe we can get together and you can have them.
I am still impressed with how you took the warp out of the head of that diesel engine because it now sure sounds perfect.
Yoda says Ginger deserves an extra treat because she is so cute 😍.
Thanks for the video 👍
@@Mikefngarage I'm sorry to hear that, I'm not great at car mechanic stuff, I've only filtered veggie oil for my friend. You must make sure to heat up the veggie oil when it gets too cold. Many say you need to have 2 tanks, one with regular diesel and one with veggie oil so you can start up the car on regular and change when it's warm. Try to use a ultrasonic cleaner and be sure to use hot water or some solvent that is preheated. I sadly don't have any other idea's.
If you are having balance issues just reduce the centrifugal mass... AKA use a shorter spin disk, to do this cut the wall half way down cut a slit in the discarded piece fit back in place (On the inside if done to outside of spinning rotor it will detonate) jb weld or use desired glue. I would jb weld those holes and thin it out by pressing a piece of paper against the holes and that slit you made then rebalance again after it dries of course. Only reason why you would be slinging that much oil around will be if you are seperating literal pounds of insoluble solids. Remember you are only separating different densities with that gravity separator.
that’s little rabbit diesel is awesome!!
Nice pup! and good idea, but to much work for me! maybe when the mad max happens
The reason they use clap boards is to have a visual and audible que for aligning sound. You should do this as well, to make sure your audio and visual is in sync. None of your problem that people like me get triggered heavily by such small discrepancies, but it just makes for much higher quality content. Anyway. Not a bad start for filtering old oil.
I've read that the carbon that makes it into the oil doesnt get trapped in the filter
I agree the bottom of the hopper may be flexing!
If you don't get the carbon out, it will eventually stick to the injector tips (from the combustion - not from passing through the injectors) and cause a poor spray pattern. It will start to smoke. As long as you are OK with pulling your injectors and cleaning them every 500-1000 miles or so, it's not a problem. Some vehicles are easier to do it with than others.
Not true at all. You won't get the carbon out no matter what you try. Literally thousands of guys have documented experiences running WMO well over 100,000 mi upwards of half a million without ever having to worry about coking the injectors. Many of the guys don't do anything besides pour straight into the fuel tank directly after draining it from the motor.
It's not from the carbon it's from long chain hydrocarbons that don't burn well it is called coking
Here are my 2 cents. If you put some small ball bearings in the juicer like they use to self balance a tire would it work better? I would also have started by running it as a juicer and then measure the weight of the contents of the juicer(pulp) and see how much oil in volume would be a similar weight. That calculation might give you a better idea of the max weight volume the machine can handle. The manufacturer might have used this calculation in the designing of the juicer. You could then try and strengthen the bearing holders in the base. My other thought was to manufacture a nut to replace the nylon one with a shaft out the top of it which could be held by the lid as an extra bearing surface add a cheap bearing to inside of the lid for it to seat in. You would probably need to machine that new nut so it is in balance. You might be able to design it in software to print in a 3d printer.?
You had a few failures but kept at it and finally succeeded, well done.
If only you had released this video 4-5 days ago! I found a big Centrifuge in a dumpster but it was too heavy for me alone to lift out of the dumpster. It was like 30” x 30” x 14” probably 160-180lbs. I was going to have a buddy go help grab it but got busy with family. Ps. I'm here in Salt Lake City
Dang, that would have been a score. I cracked a rib years ago trying to lean over and extract something from a dumpster that was way too heavy. Love a good dumpster find.
I would have cut up a pair of jeans and lined the inside up with that instead blocking the holes with the tin can. The denim is going to filter quite well
It won't. The centrifuge by itself filters better than any paper, cloth, etc. filter you can buy. It is the filter and never clogs.
Sir, I'm in the middle of watching your video and have paused it to share an idea... maybe adding some of those small porcelain balancing beads that balance tires would do the trick.
Thank you
For grit test you should taste it
What if you mixed the solvent (gas/diesel) into the oil before filtering?
3:03 I got that same disc, didn't know what it was for. It came with a hyper tough angled die grinder.
Appreciate ya. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
Interesting video as always...will this work in a common rail diesel fuel system..
Common rail injector tolerances are so incredibly tight, might be more trouble than what it's worth. One thing's for sure, don't run this through any truck with a DPF.....lol
I will also add that running these types of "fuels" are more tolerant in older, fully mechanical type injection systems with no computers and sensors involved to complain about what you are feeding it.
OLD TECHNOLOGY IS RELIABLE and more simple to maintain!
Very cool. I know version two will be better!
Why wouldn’t it flow out the bottom of the can wall you made?
Hand full of BB's. The way balance beads work in a tire?
Possibly. I'm thinking the oil gets a wave, like the ocean. This amplifies and it went berserk.
you are supposed to have a metering valve and trickle the oil in as its running