I can't thank you enough for this excellent explanation and video. I have a 23 Norden 901 and have been struggling to understand the Owners Manual and stick on the rear swing arm - there are lots of opinions out there, and this really helped me sort it out - thank you!
Thanks for your kind words! Glad it was useful. I spent quite a bit of time fiddling with this one morning trying to figure it out so thought I might as well share what I learned. This chain likes to run loose and the adjustment process is so strange I keep second guessing myself. Ride on! Great bike you have!
Thank you for your video, mine was too tight and probably as a result of it I’m quite close to the max 272mm on the 18 chain rollers. Luckily the chain didn’t snapped but it will have a short milage. Anyway now I have adjusted my chain correctly. 👌
So true, very easy to over-tighten a chain! I did trade it in, seems like 9-10K was trade in value a year ago with around 5K miles on the bike. Not a great deal, but was nice to get into new bike with that credit easily applied to new bike. Drove one bike there and another bike home, nothing like instant gratification to reinforce a bad habit. ;)
Thank your great tutorial - I was second guessing myself on a Norden 901 Epedition, this confirmed how to do it - quite different to the prior husky 701 I owned and also the chain runs a lot more loose. I found a 5/32 allen key fits in there nicely and measures 4.5mm on my vernier so works well. Thanks again.
My KTM Duke 690 requires a similar chain adjustment. I use an old feeler guage to determine the 5mm chain to swingarm gap. Not too hard to do, but fiddly like you say. Thanks for the video.
Nice video. I use Allen wrench 4 mm for measuring. A 5 lb plastic hammer from Harbor freight to persuade the tire to move forward when I adjust to far back Thanks
Good eye! You are exactly correct, I went through that whole process and ended up barely, if any, tighter than before. Just what I thought when I basically put it back almost to where it was initially. It really takes some getting used to and not to compulsivley want to tighten it up.
Id rather just run it slightly loose. I already had one countershaft seal replaced under warranty. Chain tension on these KTM 790/890 bikes is like a mystery to even the dealerships.
I also notice the chain clatter on low speed acceleration. I guess it's like you said, something we just need to get used to. Do you think the standard loose chains on these bikes will mean the sprockets will wear faster?
Hi Rob! I think you are right, it seems to be a characteristic of these bikes and I noticed it on my bike on the last ride intermittently upon low speed acceleration. I asked a mechanically inclined friend about it who runs a lot of chains and sprockets on his farm equipment and he thinks it is a good system and that there is nothing to worry about as his equipment runs on the loose side of the spectrum and they run for years. As we have heard before, with chains loose is better than too tight. So I have decided to keep it in spec and just ride and rattle! 😉 Have 1k miles on bike and they look good so far but time will tell. Thanks for commenting, good thoughts and feedback!
@@oregonmotojohn good to know John. Rattle and ride, nice phrase! I had a chat with a mate who owns a tenere 700. He said his chain rattle is exactly the same. Perhaps an adv trait. 👍 Thanks for the video!
I use wd 40 to clean and wd roller grease to lubricant and I do it every ride I do off-road. I know that's excessive but it's what I do and I haven't had to adjust my chain in 3000 miles. I also try not to jerk the throttle and apply smooth constant power when accelerating. Is that normal or do I have a unicorn 🦄 chain ⛓️?
John - awesome videos … super clean chain! Whoa! Question … where do you find those awesome orange bobbins on your rear swing arm? I’m looking for the correct diameter & pitch that will fit in the 890, but have been unsuccessful in finding the correct specs and a vendor that sells the right ones. Any advice here? Thanks very much.
Hi Scott! Thanks for your kind words and for watching! Sorry for the delayed response but I have been searching for where I got thise spools for weeks. But I finally found them and here is where I got them: aomc.mx/KTM-PADDOCK-STAND-ADAPTERS-ORANGE.html, I used blue locklite on them which helped them screw in easier and also prevents them from backing out.
Great question for sure. KTM suggests doing it with the bike lifted, but honestly it doesn't seem like it would change the outcome enough to matter. Next time I check tension I'll try it both ways to see if it changes the outcome any. If anyone else has any suggestions on this topic hopefully they will chime in.
Thank you for making this video. As for Adventure bike... KTM could have done it easier to keep proper chain slack... and while on the road, with no jack or central stand... ech, not easy... Cheers!
Thanks for the tips! Can you please tell me how to get the swing arm mounts for the rear stand? I looked when I got my 890 and everyone said they didn’t exist. Sheesh. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! I had the same problem. I could be wrong, but I believe I had these left over from my ktm 690 enduro R or maybe 790 Adenture. Maybe see if it is easier to find some for the 690. Isn't it crazy how hard it is to find something as swingarm spools for rear. In the past I have good luck for spools at ktmtwins.com, AOMC and amazon and rockymountainatv.com. I cant remember where I got these it was so long ago. I just found these for 790 but they fit fine. www.ebay.com/itm/174320488484
When I tighten up my rear axle nut to torque specification, the left hand adjuster block keeps wanting to spin out of alignment. You can clearly see it, and the gap it creates between adjuster block face and the adjuster nut. No matter how gently or quickly torque is applied, or how hard I push against the wheel to try and counter. It's as if the machined channel in the swingarm is too wide. I eventually used a flat bladed screwdriver to wedge the left adjuster block firmly in position while the axle nut was tightened. Your experience? Any insight? Thanks.
That is so frustrating! I didn't have that problem with this bike, but I sure have with other bikes that I have owned. Once I adjusted and readjusted a chain about 5 times before I got it because adjustment changed when tightening axle nut! After chain is adjusted, does a rag in between the sprocket and chain help to keep it from changing adjustment? It always drives me nuts when a simple task goes South and becomes hard. I have been there many times!
Handy trick I learned for this is putting a screwdriver between the chain/sprocket (it will fall between the sprocket teeth) to create extra tension and pull the rear wheel up into the adjusters. After you torque the rear wheel axle just roll the wheel forward to remove the screwdriver. As far as the chain tightening when tightening up the axle, it happens every bike I've had (many manufactures) - so I always leave a touch of extra slack than I want when adjusting. A quick double-check after tightening down the axle and you're good to go.
No, the manual says to "raise the motorcycle with rear lifting gear." I just double checked the manual as I have to admit I didn't double check this before making this video. Good question.
No, filming a procedure is difficult, not enough hands. :) I am making it look like I am pushing harder than I am. To push with less force, would mean the chain would have been looser yet, and the chain is plenty loose at end of adjustment and within spec as per KTM manual.
The chain link as way more than 2-5 mm from top to bottom so by that math it would be impossible to achieve that spec even if the chain was touching the bottom of the swingarm
Couple thoughts; 1. instead of pencil might consider allen keys. 2. Is it ‘proper’ to check chain on a lift/center stand (allowing swingarm to sag) or while bike is on side stand?
I can't thank you enough for this excellent explanation and video. I have a 23 Norden 901 and have been struggling to understand the Owners Manual and stick on the rear swing arm - there are lots of opinions out there, and this really helped me sort it out - thank you!
Thanks for your kind words! Glad it was useful. I spent quite a bit of time fiddling with this one morning trying to figure it out so thought I might as well share what I learned. This chain likes to run loose and the adjustment process is so strange I keep second guessing myself. Ride on! Great bike you have!
I think we all appreciate your experience and transparency in your instruction.
You are very welcome! Glad to be able to pass it on. 🙌 Thanks for your kind words, much appreciated!
Thank you for your video, mine was too tight and probably as a result of it I’m quite close to the max 272mm on the 18 chain rollers. Luckily the chain didn’t snapped but it will have a short milage. Anyway now I have adjusted my chain correctly. 👌
So true, very easy to over-tighten a chain! I did trade it in, seems like 9-10K was trade in value a year ago with around 5K miles on the bike. Not a great deal, but was nice to get into new bike with that credit easily applied to new bike. Drove one bike there and another bike home, nothing like instant gratification to reinforce a bad habit. ;)
Thank your great tutorial - I was second guessing myself on a Norden 901 Epedition, this confirmed how to do it - quite different to the prior husky 701 I owned and also the chain runs a lot more loose. I found a 5/32 allen key fits in there nicely and measures 4.5mm on my vernier so works well. Thanks again.
My KTM Duke 690 requires a similar chain adjustment. I use an old feeler guage to determine the 5mm chain to swingarm gap. Not too hard to do, but fiddly like you say. Thanks for the video.
Nice video. I use Allen wrench 4 mm for measuring. A 5 lb plastic hammer from Harbor freight to persuade the tire to move forward when I adjust to far back Thanks
good video! is wd-40 good for cleaning chain? I've used it to dry chain after getting caught in rain before putting bike away...
Thank you for this very informative and helpful video! I'm aiming to get 890 adventure R next year:)
Chain looked about right at the start of your video. Just the way it is with WP Xplor suspension.
Good eye! You are exactly correct, I went through that whole process and ended up barely, if any, tighter than before. Just what I thought when I basically put it back almost to where it was initially. It really takes some getting used to and not to compulsivley want to tighten it up.
Id rather just run it slightly loose. I already had one countershaft seal replaced under warranty. Chain tension on these KTM 790/890 bikes is like a mystery to even the dealerships.
A 5mm hex key is 5mm thick
John, Good stuff thanks. I have a 1290 Super S. The manual is not very helpful.
You're welcome! Yes, I puzzled over the manual quite a while trying to understand what we were supposed to do! 😊 Thanks for watching!
Most people tend to over tighten chains, did you trade in your 790 for the 890? If you don't mind me asking how much did you get for your 790R?
I also notice the chain clatter on low speed acceleration. I guess it's like you said, something we just need to get used to. Do you think the standard loose chains on these bikes will mean the sprockets will wear faster?
Hi Rob! I think you are right, it seems to be a characteristic of these bikes and I noticed it on my bike on the last ride intermittently upon low speed acceleration. I asked a mechanically inclined friend about it who runs a lot of chains and sprockets on his farm equipment and he thinks it is a good system and that there is nothing to worry about as his equipment runs on the loose side of the spectrum and they run for years. As we have heard before, with chains loose is better than too tight. So I have decided to keep it in spec and just ride and rattle! 😉 Have 1k miles on bike and they look good so far but time will tell. Thanks for commenting, good thoughts and feedback!
@@oregonmotojohn good to know John. Rattle and ride, nice phrase! I had a chat with a mate who owns a tenere 700. He said his chain rattle is exactly the same. Perhaps an adv trait. 👍 Thanks for the video!
@@robinroma6285 You're welcome! Like you said, it probably has to do with the extra travel in suspension of an adventure bike.
FYI: A chain that is too tight will create excessive sprocket wear, not too loose.
@@SFCRen both.
Thank you a lot , your videos are amazing focused on the task and so clear info for us🙌,
Saludos desde Nuevo leon Mexico
I use wd 40 to clean and wd roller grease to lubricant and I do it every ride I do off-road. I know that's excessive but it's what I do and I haven't had to adjust my chain in 3000 miles. I also try not to jerk the throttle and apply smooth constant power when accelerating. Is that normal or do I have a unicorn 🦄 chain ⛓️?
John - awesome videos … super clean chain! Whoa! Question … where do you find those awesome orange bobbins on your rear swing arm? I’m looking for the correct diameter & pitch that will fit in the 890, but have been unsuccessful in finding the correct specs and a vendor that sells the right ones. Any advice here? Thanks very much.
Hi Scott! Thanks for your kind words and for watching! Sorry for the delayed response but I have been searching for where I got thise spools for weeks. But I finally found them and here is where I got them: aomc.mx/KTM-PADDOCK-STAND-ADAPTERS-ORANGE.html, I used blue locklite on them which helped them screw in easier and also prevents them from backing out.
Does it matter if you do this on the side stand or do you need to adjust this on a paddock stand?
Great question for sure. KTM suggests doing it with the bike lifted, but honestly it doesn't seem like it would change the outcome enough to matter. Next time I check tension I'll try it both ways to see if it changes the outcome any. If anyone else has any suggestions on this topic hopefully they will chime in.
Thank you for making this video.
As for Adventure bike... KTM could have done it easier to keep proper chain slack... and while on the road, with no jack or central stand... ech, not easy... Cheers!
Thanks for the tips! Can you please tell me how to get the swing arm mounts for the rear stand? I looked when I got my 890 and everyone said they didn’t exist. Sheesh. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! I had the same problem. I could be wrong, but I believe I had these left over from my ktm 690 enduro R or maybe 790 Adenture. Maybe see if it is easier to find some for the 690. Isn't it crazy how hard it is to find something as swingarm spools for rear. In the past I have good luck for spools at ktmtwins.com, AOMC and amazon and rockymountainatv.com. I cant remember where I got these it was so long ago. I just found these for 790 but they fit fine. www.ebay.com/itm/174320488484
They look like mine which are a KTM Powerpart accessory (in UK). Listed under 890 accessories.
Bit late but may help somebody else. My old KTM 890 Duke spools fit the adventure.
BTW, How do you like your bike?
Eric, Black Swan Odysseys.
The chain chatter is horrendous off road
When I tighten up my rear axle nut to torque specification, the left hand adjuster block keeps wanting to spin out of alignment. You can clearly see it, and the gap it creates between adjuster block face and the adjuster nut. No matter how gently or quickly torque is applied, or how hard I push against the wheel to try and counter. It's as if the machined channel in the swingarm is too wide. I eventually used a flat bladed screwdriver to wedge the left adjuster block firmly in position while the axle nut was tightened. Your experience? Any insight? Thanks.
That is so frustrating! I didn't have that problem with this bike, but I sure have with other bikes that I have owned. Once I adjusted and readjusted a chain about 5 times before I got it because adjustment changed when tightening axle nut! After chain is adjusted, does a rag in between the sprocket and chain help to keep it from changing adjustment? It always drives me nuts when a simple task goes South and becomes hard. I have been there many times!
Handy trick I learned for this is putting a screwdriver between the chain/sprocket (it will fall between the sprocket teeth) to create extra tension and pull the rear wheel up into the adjusters. After you torque the rear wheel axle just roll the wheel forward to remove the screwdriver.
As far as the chain tightening when tightening up the axle, it happens every bike I've had (many manufactures) - so I always leave a touch of extra slack than I want when adjusting. A quick double-check after tightening down the axle and you're good to go.
@@Matt43 and @Oregon Moto John. Thanks, these tricks make sense. I'll certainly give them a try...
@@Matt43 Great tip! Thanks for commenting Matt! That will help get it right and so true, always recheck after tightening, well done.
Shouldn't the chain be adjusted with the wheel on ground?
No, the manual says to "raise the motorcycle with rear lifting gear." I just double checked the manual as I have to admit I didn't double check this before making this video. Good question.
@@oregonmotojohn cool, thanks for clarifying.
@@Navillus2273 Anytime! I wasn't sure either until you asked. 🤔
It suppose that the wheel must be in the air not on the rear stand
Ah, got it, the wheel stand or the center stand would work just fine. Either way is ok, just do which is easiest for you.
@Oregon Moto John you must adjust the chain with the suspension fully extended
@@pierogillio Yes, that is exactly correct. 💯
Get those cams made from cheese out of your heads on those long rides .. I’m sure it will never happen. 😂
5:20 aren't you pushing too hard on the chain?
No, filming a procedure is difficult, not enough hands. :) I am making it look like I am pushing harder than I am. To push with less force, would mean the chain would have been looser yet, and the chain is plenty loose at end of adjustment and within spec as per KTM manual.
@@oregonmotojohn It just that in the manual it says top part of chain must be taut
It looks like the diagram indicates 2-5 mm to the BOTTOM of the chain link, not the top…. This is really confusing….
You are so correct, it is one of the most confusing chain adjustment diagrams I have ever seen.
The chain link as way more than 2-5 mm from top to bottom so by that math it would be impossible to achieve that spec even if the chain was touching the bottom of the swingarm
Couple thoughts;
1. instead of pencil might consider allen keys.
2. Is it ‘proper’ to check chain on a lift/center stand (allowing swingarm to sag) or while bike is on side stand?
Seems to loose to me but I guess ktm knows more than me
A torque wrench isn't that expensive. Go buy one.
Your too lose fella comin from a ktm mech