Put Ohlins coilovers on your Evo X!
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- Опубликовано: 24 фев 2018
- This is a quick how to assemble and install Ohlins R&T coilovers for an Evo X. I purchased these from MAPerformance.com and installed them myself.
Music: Small Losses by CMA, download here ruclips.net/user/redirect?q=ht... 
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Nice video!! Thanks for sharing.
Get Swift 10k springs front and back. Re-valve the rears for stiffer settings. Will get excellent response!
I hope you got paid for this lol. By far the best video ive used for doing this on my evo. Cant thank you enough.
Haha I wish but no, I just did it because I couldn’t find any clear directions. I appreciate it and am glad that it helped you out
Good informative video man, on the front shocks assembly you didn't install the lower plastic spring spacer (no3) and the upper elastic spacer (no5) and in the rear shock assembly you also didn't install the top spacer as illustrated on both instruction sheets.
thanks man :D really appreciate it. i dont even have a car (yet?), just to cure the curiosity @ 1am XD hahaha
What did you do with the white plastic brackets for the front wheel sensors? I just finished installing first front side. They don’t snap into the shock body like the Tein flex Z that I’ve had before. Great explanations on the assembling! Thank you!
I put them in the same spot even though they didn’t snap into place. I have not had an issue with them moving around but you could try loosely zip tying them.
This was a very well put together video! How have they been holding up? Thinking about getting a set of these for my Evo. I don't plan on tracking my Evo ever, but I hear that the Whiteline Rear Lower Control Arms and Front Roll Center Adjustment kit are great additions to have. Would you recommend also purchasing these things out the gate?
Thank you. I highly recommend these even if you do not track your Evo. I was trying to think of a way to measure daily driving with these but I couldn't think of a good way to do that. Both my wife and I think they feel better on the road compared to my eibach springs, not as harsh on bumps. I have the Front Roll Center Adjustment kit but different Rear Lower Control Arms. I recommend getting both of those if you plan to lower/aggressively align your car. If you keep it at stock height then you will be fine without them.
If you are looking for a less expensive option you should check out Yellow Speed Racing, they offer 2 way adjustable (compression & rebound) coilovers for the same or less price. You could then adjust them to however hard or soft you want them to feel.
How do you tighten the top lock nut on the rears without spinning the threaded shaft inside the shock body?
you have to remove the adjustment cap on the threaded portion (small allen lock key on the side), once that is off you can use an allen wrench to hold the threads while using a "crows foot" on a torque wrench. 3:44 in the video
Hi, thanks for the video. Question about torqueing down the top nut in the front assembly, did you use the wrench to hold the nut and torque it down with the Allen key ? I'm trying to figure out if I can do this with the tools I have at home or if I need to buy something else. Thank you
Yes at 2:05 in the video you can see that I used an allen socket on my torque wrench and held the nut with a wrench to torque the front. If you go to 3:43, I did the opposite on the rear to show the two different options. I used a crowsfoot socket on my torque wrench and held the center with a normal allen wrench.
Nice!! Does the Ohlin's kit comes with camber plates or was that optional?
It comes with camber plates standard, not an option that you have to pay extra for. Heads up, they do not adjust caster.
You can get more camber adjustment by spinning the eccentric bolt (mentioned at 4:52). I run -2.7 camber and am almost maxed out.
Hi. do you remember if you had problems lining up the brake line brackets with the ohlins? i installed mine yesterday and it seems that the bracket is too short to hook up on the strut
No I don’t remember having an issue with the brake line brackets. I have aftermarket flexible stainless steel lines so I don’t know if that changes anything
Are you having issues with your brake line brackets (the ones bolted onto the back of the front coilovers) contacting the brake hardlines or inner fender? My brake hardlines are almost ruptured due to the contact from the bracket hitting them since this coilover places the bracket much higher and closer to the inner fender than stock.
Matt Gustafson I have stainless brake lines that let me flex them out of the way. I remember the brackets moved the brake lines from the stock location, I’m not sure if the stock brake line bracket would fit?
@@cspencern7473 The stock brake line bracket bolts up to the back of the coilover but the top of the bracket hits the inside of the fender as well as the hardline that bolts to the inside of the fender and goes into the engine bay. I think I figured it out though, I was running too much camber.
So your braided lines eliminated the bracket that bolts to the coilover? I may need to look into this.
Why trim the dust boot??? You left it uncovered the strut might get cold
Hugo SonofGod that is what the instructions told me to do. I’m guessing it has something to do with the amount of travel that this shock has. It’s most likely the same dust boot for all of their shocks
I’m having issues getting the rear coilovers to fit. It seems the clearance is off about .22 mm. (New coils with bushings are too thick.)
Any advice?
Do you mean the lower part of the rear coilover, where the long bolt goes through? If so I would guess maybe tap it with a rubber mallet (not a hammer otherwise that might damage something). 6:43 shows the factory service manual. Worst case, maybe pry on the mount to try opening it up just a little bit
@@cspencern7473 I was about to get it in by putting a little sander bit on a dremel and cleaning the surface area. I think there was just a lot of crud.
Thanks!
What dampening settings do you recommend for the evo ?
I have my car set up for HPDE track days on 200 treadwear tires at the middle setting in the front (I think 10 clicks from the stiffest setting). For the rear I wanted it to oversteer to help rotate the car so it is 7 clicks from the stiffest setting.
Since 1 click is not a huge difference I recommend only adjusting the front or rear by 2 clicks at a time. This will help you see if you like the change or if it was too much then you can try one click back. I originally went softer in the front but it was too soft when I hit the curbs on track.
Thank you for the info! I'd adjusted the dampening settings and it feels way better now.
Did you not put dust boots on purpose?
I put the rubber dust boots on (see 1:10 and 2:40). I have seen optional dust covers that go over the outside of the entire coilover, if that’s what you are asking about? I didn’t put those on since I do track days on paved tracks and don’t plan on off-roading this car. It also makes pre/post event inspections easier to see if there is a leak or damage.
@@cspencern7473 apologies I was referring to the plastic/elastic spring spacer
@@pherdarico all good, I know this kit has a lot of small parts without a name. For the plastic spring space, are you talking about the piece on the bottom of the top hats that holds the spring? There is a rubber isolator built into them. I used all of the parts that came with the kit and didn’t transfer over any stock parts since the Ohlins spring is so much smaller.
Are you happy with the standard spring rates that you chose? Nice video by the way.
Yes I am very happy with the standard spring rates. I road race my car about once a month and drive it once a week on the weekends. On the road I have a smoother ride than stock shocks with lowering springs, then at the track I have a more predictable weight transfer in the turns.
I read on forums from companies that race (CBRD) on slick r compound tires that you will want harder springs in that case. I am running a 200 tread wear tire (265/35 size) and am really glad that I didn’t go with a stiffer setup. Without r compound grip then the turning/braking force will not be strong enough to warrant stiffer suspension, from what I understand. Thank you I hope this answered your question.
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