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No I don’t remember having an issue with the brake line brackets. I have aftermarket flexible stainless steel lines so I don’t know if that changes anything

I put them in the same spot even though they didn’t snap into place. I have not had an issue with them moving around but you could try loosely zip tying them.

Thank you. No I still have the stock fpr and I did not do a retune (I had a DW65c 265lph before that when it was tuned). I am most likely running a little rich with the bigger fuel pump with a tune but I have not had any issues with that. I am surprised that you made it 3 sessions and only got down to 1/2 tank. I normally add 5 gallons after my second session.

Haha I wish but no, I just did it because I couldn’t find any clear directions. I appreciate it and am glad that it helped you out

Do you mean the lower part of the rear coilover, where the long bolt goes through? If so I would guess maybe tap it with a rubber mallet (not a hammer otherwise that might damage something). 6:43 shows the factory service manual. Worst case, maybe pry on the mount to try opening it up just a little bit

@@cspencern7473 I was about to get it in by putting a little sander bit on a dremel and cleaning the surface area. I think there was just a lot of crud. Thanks!

I put the rubber dust boots on (see 1:10 and 2:40). I have seen optional dust covers that go over the outside of the entire coilover, if that’s what you are asking about? I didn’t put those on since I do track days on paved tracks and don’t plan on off-roading this car. It also makes pre/post event inspections easier to see if there is a leak or damage.

@@cspencern7473 apologies I was referring to the plastic/elastic spring spacer

@@pherdarico all good, I know this kit has a lot of small parts without a name. For the plastic spring space, are you talking about the piece on the bottom of the top hats that holds the spring? There is a rubber isolator built into them. I used all of the parts that came with the kit and didn’t transfer over any stock parts since the Ohlins spring is so much smaller.

Yes at 2:05 in the video you can see that I used an allen socket on my torque wrench and held the nut with a wrench to torque the front. If you go to 3:43, I did the opposite on the rear to show the two different options. I used a crowsfoot socket on my torque wrench and held the center with a normal allen wrench.

I’m not sure which hose you are asking about but the pressure hose is 3/8” for the -6AN fitting and the syphon line is 1/4” for the -4AN fitting. Hopefully that helps, the kit comes with plenty of each size hose.

@@cspencern7473 ty sir it’s weird cause my multi surge didn’t come with any hoses.

It comes with camber plates standard, not an option that you have to pay extra for. Heads up, they do not adjust caster. You can get more camber adjustment by spinning the eccentric bolt (mentioned at 4:52). I run -2.7 camber and am almost maxed out.

I have my car set up for HPDE track days on 200 treadwear tires at the middle setting in the front (I think 10 clicks from the stiffest setting). For the rear I wanted it to oversteer to help rotate the car so it is 7 clicks from the stiffest setting. Since 1 click is not a huge difference I recommend only adjusting the front or rear by 2 clicks at a time. This will help you see if you like the change or if it was too much then you can try one click back. I originally went softer in the front but it was too soft when I hit the curbs on track.

Thank you for the info! I'd adjusted the dampening settings and it feels way better now.

Thank you. I highly recommend these even if you do not track your Evo. I was trying to think of a way to measure daily driving with these but I couldn't think of a good way to do that. Both my wife and I think they feel better on the road compared to my eibach springs, not as harsh on bumps. I have the Front Roll Center Adjustment kit but different Rear Lower Control Arms. I recommend getting both of those if you plan to lower/aggressively align your car. If you keep it at stock height then you will be fine without them. If you are looking for a less expensive option you should check out Yellow Speed Racing, they offer 2 way adjustable (compression & rebound) coilovers for the same or less price. You could then adjust them to however hard or soft you want them to feel.

Thank you. This was my first track day on the Federal 595RS-RR in 265/35-18 size. They felt great the first couple of track days but then started to fall off after about 5 days (20 sessions). Yes, I have a GoPro Hero 4 Silver mounted to the side of my helmet and then the phone mounted on the windshield is running TrackAddict. I just use Race Render to overlay the data from my phone onto my video. I have not tried to connect it through the app yet.

@@cspencern7473 20 sessions seems like a decent amount to get out of a set of track tires. I only have 4 sessions on my NT-01s and hoping to get at least 20. The current version of Track Addict does have a feature to operate the GoPro and quickly download video from it. I use my phone to capture video and its not nearly as smooth as the GoPro. It'd be cool to mount the phone elsewhere and still capture quality video that'd be easy to use with Track Addict and not have to go thru many extra steps.

@@cfournier4 I'm sticking with 200tw tires because of how long they last. I figure my lap times are still getting better so I am learning how to drive and get the most out of my setup, once I plateau I will upgrade. I hear the NT-01's are great tires. I wish that I could mount my phone somewhere else, out of my line of sight but the GPS doesn't work as good anywhere else.

Is your corvette a Z51? What size NT-01s do you run on it?

@@cspencern7473 Yes, its a 2014 Z51. I'm using 275/35/r18 front and 305/35/r18 rear. The rear tire's overall diameter is very close to the stock 285/30/r20. These tires gave me a lot more confidence especially in the rear where I could more easily control the slide. At some point I hope to improve enough to where I can run w/o any nannies.

Matt Gustafson I have stainless brake lines that let me flex them out of the way. I remember the brackets moved the brake lines from the stock location, I’m not sure if the stock brake line bracket would fit?

@@cspencern7473 The stock brake line bracket bolts up to the back of the coilover but the top of the bracket hits the inside of the fender as well as the hardline that bolts to the inside of the fender and goes into the engine bay. I think I figured it out though, I was running too much camber.

So your braided lines eliminated the bracket that bolts to the coilover? I may need to look into this.

24xcar7 that’s awesome that you are starting to track your Evo too, it’s a lot of fun. Yes I ran into fuel starvation issues early on too, anything below 3/4 tank of fuel would cause it. I worked with MAP to piece together the surge tank kit, which took a year to sort all out, but I love it now. I run my car at 1/2 tank for less weight and have had no issues even when I get down to 1/8 tank. The only thing you will have to plan is where to mount the surge tank (it is meant to replace the EVAP canister but that throws a code). I fabbed up a bracket to mount it next to the EVAP canister. I make just under 390hp/370tq at the wheels on 91oct.

CspencerN Awesome and thanks for the feedback again!

CspencerN Hey, so I finally got my surge tank kit installed. Did you add a fuel pump controller to your setup to run the surge tank pump? I don't have one on mine so wondering if one is really required at all?

24xcar7 no I do not have one and I have not had any issues. I talked with my tuner to get his advice, he had me send him a data log and said everything was good. I recommend getting with your tuner.

Hugo SonofGod that is what the instructions told me to do. I’m guessing it has something to do with the amount of travel that this shock has. It’s most likely the same dust boot for all of their shocks

you have to remove the adjustment cap on the threaded portion (small allen lock key on the side), once that is off you can use an allen wrench to hold the threads while using a "crows foot" on a torque wrench. 3:44 in the video

Instgram at ye11owbee I really like these coilovers and highly recommend them for daily driver and light track use. What I mean by light track use is that I am still on street tires (200 treadwear) and am fine with less adjustability (one knob for compression/rebound adjustment).

Yes I am very happy with the standard spring rates. I road race my car about once a month and drive it once a week on the weekends. On the road I have a smoother ride than stock shocks with lowering springs, then at the track I have a more predictable weight transfer in the turns. I read on forums from companies that race (CBRD) on slick r compound tires that you will want harder springs in that case. I am running a 200 tread wear tire (265/35 size) and am really glad that I didn’t go with a stiffer setup. Without r compound grip then the turning/braking force will not be strong enough to warrant stiffer suspension, from what I understand. Thank you I hope this answered your question.