I've been modeling for 50+ years, and have never seen a decal with "carrier film" on it. Pretty interesting. I have actually gotten into using stencils for my markings, as much as possible. With the markings painted on, they look very authentic!
Yes, I agree masking stencils give you a better finish as they are literally painted on. I have a set for my Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire that is in the build queue.
Par excellence in this remarkable achievement in resolving what has been a vexing problem with these new era Eduard decals. I've been successful using a variety of techniques, all now seem a tad sketchy to this marvellous outcome you have posted. Real model-making "hall of fame" stuff mate. As for Eduard themselves providing such a definitive technique and their general "haziness" and lack of information about this, the mind boggles lol. Kudos and much respect to you sir. Warmest regards from Tuckombil via Alstonville and East Ballina 800km north of Sydney, MATE 🤙
The water was room temperature, I didn’t use warm water incase it damaged the transfer itself. I think the water acts a bit like a lubricant or a softener for the carrier film.
Nice to hear 'transfers' as we used to call them. American kits, like Revell, always said, decals, or deesals as i thought it, deckals, no, transfers for us Brit modelers of a certain age (61). Beautiful work on those Spits, Sir . Subbed.
Great technique! I haven't tried using the water and brush technique, but I have used micro Sol and a nice glossy finish (GTX Super Clear III) with excellent results. I love the Eduard transfers!
Wow, thank you for the information! I tried to remove these carrier films, but they kept tearing the decals, so I just put a dull coat over the top of them like you do on any normal decal, but this looks so much better
I recently tried them for the first time; they 50/50 either worked well or started tearing the decal off. I put them over a Tamiya semi-gloss surface, using Mr setter and softer. It seemed that the smaller decals were the worst for wanting to lift off with the film. I'd love to be able to use them 100% reliably -will try your method soon as I like the idea of them. Thanks for your vid.
Nice one. I haven't used any of their decals/transfers/sticky things yet and was resolved to go for cartograph but I get it. It seems as long as the adhesive is good and stuck, the carrier film should let go. Thanks, less worried about giving them a go to be fair
Great tutorial, see a few still to try them, lol , what colours and manufacturers did you use on the High Altitude spit please, thier both lovely. Well done 👍
Watching the video over again, I noticed that the water that was left on the lettering sat there for a bit longer, while you removed the roundel carrier film. I wonder if it's simply a matter of letting the water set on the decal (transfer) for a bit and then using the wet brush ro lift the edge of the carrier film.
Thank you for the video. I tried it on some spare decals from 1/72 Bf-109F and Hurristory. Worked really well. But what about stencils. There's so little paint compared to the carrier film, that I'm afraid removing the film will remove everything.
Are the stencils on a different sheet? If so check the date on them and if they are a few years old they will be the older type of ‘normal’ transfer. Otherwise if you get them set down nicely then if they look ok I would possibly leave them and just varnish over them. Let me know your thoughts.
@@creativetimewasting good point, sometimes stencils might be older, and so called "normal" decals. But this new Bf 109 is very new, and the stencils are definitely new style. When I tested the decals, after applying setting solution, the edge of the carrier half vanished. So trimming the stencils, and leaving the film is a good option too, I think. After a coat of matt varnish it probably looks ok.
But have they changed them back? Last week I received the new Eduard/Zvesda Hrabe Su-25, and the decals display none of the mottling that characterized the "new" decals with the carrier film on the top. The Su-25 decals are perfectly glossy on the sheets with no mottling whatsoever. So now what's going on?
Yes, Eduard have moved the game on a bit regarding the nice painted on finish that can be achieved. It does take a bit of effort to get the full benefit but it would have been nice for Eduard to let everybody know about the change so modellers frustration would have been kept to a minimum.
Having spoken to Eduard reps at shows they never designed their decals to do this, it's just a happy accident that was discovered. Beware though it only applies to their more modern kits, not all their decals do this trick.
I've never used them. Is there a way of telling what type they are before trying to apply them? For instance, do the instructions tell you, can you tell by the transfers themselves? I'd worry about just cutting them and dunking them in water to apply them 'as normal' without realising. All that said, in my experience when I've applied transfers when I overspray with Humbrol (boo hiss) Satin Cote the transfer's carrier film 'disappears' anyway.
I’m sure they are only on the newer releases but if you look at the decal sheet you can see the carrier film is larger and not very neat and the transfer looks mottled in appearance. As you can see in my video the transfer can be very settled on the model without removing the carrier film and I’m sure a coat of varnish on the spitfire would have hidden any carrier film. I just think the colour would look a little washed out under the transfer.👍
@@zacklewis342 Actually i was talking about my mate who's name is Life and he's not very tall, in fact he`s not tall enough to reach the work bench to do the decals 😉👍
Great video and must helpful. I still can only ask why Eduard have changed an age old approach to decal application. In my opinion, this is not an improvement as using their decals just creates extra work for the same result, so I just don't get it.
That's part of the human adventure. Try. Discover. Invent. Create. Eduard took a chance on breaking a paradigm. I think they failed in the introduction, marketing, and tutorial department, but this video shows that with proper preparation and patient technique, the end result is a fabulous painted-on look with zero silvering.
I can only speak about their 1/48 spitfire Mk viii as I don’t have any other Eduard kits in my stash but it’s only the main markings in the new ‘style’ while all the stencils are on another sheet and they are the standard type of transfer.
It’s not too much hassle in my opinion as I’m very happy with the result but you build your model how you wish, it’s your model and it’s all about enjoying the hobby and being happy. 👍
Of all the methods I’ve seen online this is the one I’m most comfortable trying. Thanks for the tip and very well done video.
Thx for the tutorial. Seeing is believing.
You're doing Eduard's work. They should thank you...
Great result, I'll defo give the water technique a try, the film lifted beautifully. Thanks.
Let me know if it’s successful for you. 👍
I've been modeling for 50+ years, and have never seen a decal with "carrier film" on it. Pretty interesting. I have actually gotten into using stencils for my markings, as much as possible. With the markings painted on, they look very authentic!
Yes, I agree masking stencils give you a better finish as they are literally painted on. I have a set for my Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire that is in the build queue.
That’s amazing👍 I’ve used enamel thinner but I’ll definitely try this less aggressive technique.
Thanks for the tip😀
I’m not sure if the water does anything but it’s not going to cause any damage that thinners could do if work too much.
This seems like a great technique. Thank you for sharing this with us. Excellent video
That's incredible!!!
Thanks for showing this technique.
Par excellence in this remarkable achievement in resolving what has been a vexing problem with these new era Eduard decals. I've been successful using a variety of techniques, all now seem a tad sketchy to this marvellous outcome you have posted. Real model-making "hall of fame" stuff mate. As for Eduard themselves providing such a definitive technique and their general "haziness" and lack of information about this, the mind boggles lol.
Kudos and much respect to you sir.
Warmest regards from Tuckombil via Alstonville and East Ballina 800km north of Sydney, MATE 🤙
Thank you very much, I hope this helps lots of modellers who got a bit stumped by Eduard’s transfers.
Subbed because a) you nailed the pronounciation first time b) you called them transfers anyway.
"...try on a corner..." on a _round_ decal! LOL.
Yes, I did realise it sound a bit daft, but you get the gist. 👍
I wonder if water temp makes a difference. Maybe warm water would make it easier.
The water was room temperature, I didn’t use warm water incase it damaged the transfer itself. I think the water acts a bit like a lubricant or a softener for the carrier film.
Thanks mate great video happy modelling old boy 👍
Nice to hear 'transfers' as we used to call them. American kits, like Revell, always said, decals, or deesals as i thought it, deckals, no, transfers for us Brit modelers of a certain age (61). Beautiful work on those Spits, Sir . Subbed.
Yes, I’ve always called them transfers, ‘decals’ sounds too American.
Great technique! I haven't tried using the water and brush technique, but I have used micro Sol and a nice glossy finish (GTX Super Clear III) with excellent results. I love the Eduard transfers!
Yep, once you get to gripes with the transfers there is nothing to stop you building Eduard kits. 👍
Wow, thank you for the information! I tried to remove these carrier films, but they kept tearing the decals, so I just put a dull coat over the top of them like you do on any normal decal, but this looks so much better
I recently tried them for the first time; they 50/50 either worked well or started tearing the decal off. I put them over a Tamiya semi-gloss surface, using Mr setter and softer. It seemed that the smaller decals were the worst for wanting to lift off with the film. I'd love to be able to use them 100% reliably -will try your method soon as I like the idea of them. Thanks for your vid.
Brilliant! Thank you for this tip.
Excellent explanation.
Wait some time before starting to lift the carrier flm?? Minutes, hours, days??
I left them 24 hours.
Nice one. I haven't used any of their decals/transfers/sticky things yet and was resolved to go for cartograph but I get it. It seems as long as the adhesive is good and stuck, the carrier film should let go.
Thanks, less worried about giving them a go to be fair
All you can do is give it a go, the way I do it seems to work and it would be a shame to have to buy alternative transfers for every Eduard kit.
True. I quite fancy some of the Polish schemes on their Vb's as it goes.
Great tutorial, see a few still to try them, lol , what colours and manufacturers did you use on the High Altitude spit please, thier both lovely. Well done 👍
Yes, the upper colour is Tamiya XF-83 medium sea grey. Underside is a 50/50 mix of the Tamiya XF-83 and AK Real Colours RAF Azure Blue, thanks 👍
Watching the video over again, I noticed that the water that was left on the lettering sat there for a bit longer, while you removed the roundel carrier film. I wonder if it's simply a matter of letting the water set on the decal (transfer) for a bit and then using the wet brush ro lift the edge of the carrier film.
I just used the water as a softener to make the carrier film less brittle. So far it seems to have a positive benefit.
Great tutorial thank you. Just a thought have you tried this with sol and set, wondering if the Daco solution could be the magic solution?
Yes, I did use micro sol/set but I used Daco once every grub was settled. Seems to work on this kit anyway.
Thank you for the video. I tried it on some spare decals from 1/72 Bf-109F and Hurristory. Worked really well. But what about stencils. There's so little paint compared to the carrier film, that I'm afraid removing the film will remove everything.
Are the stencils on a different sheet? If so check the date on them and if they are a few years old they will be the older type of ‘normal’ transfer. Otherwise if you get them set down nicely then if they look ok I would possibly leave them and just varnish over them. Let me know your thoughts.
@@creativetimewasting good point, sometimes stencils might be older, and so called "normal" decals. But this new Bf 109 is very new, and the stencils are definitely new style. When I tested the decals, after applying setting solution, the edge of the carrier half vanished. So trimming the stencils, and leaving the film is a good option too, I think. After a coat of matt varnish it probably looks ok.
I always call them transfers to since I was about 7 and I'm 57 now
Yes, you are a little further along the timeline than me but not by much but I see no reason not to call them transfers. Always have and always will.
But have they changed them back? Last week I received the new Eduard/Zvesda Hrabe Su-25, and the decals display none of the mottling that characterized the "new" decals with the carrier film on the top. The Su-25 decals are perfectly glossy on the sheets with no mottling whatsoever. So now what's going on?
So they're different to the well known waterslide decals used for decades by all brands?
Yes, Eduard have moved the game on a bit regarding the nice painted on finish that can be achieved. It does take a bit of effort to get the full benefit but it would have been nice for Eduard to let everybody know about the change so modellers frustration would have been kept to a minimum.
Having spoken to Eduard reps at shows they never designed their decals to do this, it's just a happy accident that was discovered. Beware though it only applies to their more modern kits, not all their decals do this trick.
Yes, I should have mentioned it’s only on the newer kits but looking at the decal sheet it’s quite easy to identify the larger carrier film.
I've never used them. Is there a way of telling what type they are before trying to apply them? For instance, do the instructions tell you, can you tell by the transfers themselves? I'd worry about just cutting them and dunking them in water to apply them 'as normal' without realising.
All that said, in my experience when I've applied transfers when I overspray with Humbrol (boo hiss) Satin Cote the transfer's carrier film 'disappears' anyway.
I’m sure they are only on the newer releases but if you look at the decal sheet you can see the carrier film is larger and not very neat and the transfer looks mottled in appearance.
As you can see in my video the transfer can be very settled on the model without removing the carrier film and I’m sure a coat of varnish on the spitfire would have hidden any carrier film. I just think the colour would look a little washed out under the transfer.👍
@@creativetimewasting Thank you.
Life's to short for this shenanigans
And grammar, evidently.
@@zacklewis342 Actually i was talking about my mate who's name is Life and he's not very tall, in fact he`s not tall enough to reach the work bench to do the decals 😉👍
Nice work, I don't mind removing the film it's the print quality I don't like. Look at how patchy that roundel is.
Yep, I’m going to do a little video over the weekend addressing that issue.
Great video and must helpful. I still can only ask why Eduard have changed an age old approach to decal application. In my opinion, this is not an improvement as using their decals just creates extra work for the same result, so I just don't get it.
I agree, they tried something it’s not been a success, admit defeat and return to the old style decals, everybody will be happy. 👍
That's part of the human adventure. Try. Discover. Invent. Create. Eduard took a chance on breaking a paradigm. I think they failed in the introduction, marketing, and tutorial department, but this video shows that with proper preparation and patient technique, the end result is a fabulous painted-on look with zero silvering.
How long did you leave the decals on the model before removing the carrier film?
Probably overnight, so no more than 24 hours.
Question: The decal is completely dried for 24 hrs before you do this process correct?
Yes, the decal was left overnight before attempting to remove the carrier film. 👍
Интересное видео!❤
But I thought the whole point of Eduard's new decals was that you weren't meant to take the carrier film off?
That's what I thought as well ...they even said that the film wasn't supposed to be removed...🤷
It’s your model so it’s your choice. 👍
Stockholm syndrome... 😏
Be honest pal still a massive faff compared to the old ones imagine doing a modern jet with loads of decals on it good luck with that 😂😂😂😂
I can only speak about their 1/48 spitfire Mk viii as I don’t have any other Eduard kits in my stash but it’s only the main markings in the new ‘style’ while all the stencils are on another sheet and they are the standard type of transfer.
@creativetimewasting fair enough pal 👍
But what is the time gap between applying the decal and removing the film?? You guys are so inconsistent!
I left them overnight. What other people do I have no idea but this worked for me 👍
Still too much hassle though.
It’s not too much hassle in my opinion as I’m very happy with the result but you build your model how you wish, it’s your model and it’s all about enjoying the hobby and being happy. 👍
Why would eduard over complicate something? 🙄
Jman