Tim, I'm so glad you made this video. Been trying to spread this on every forum - I used a 0 gauge welding cable. But a picture is worth a thousand words, and a video is worth a thousand pictures!
Hey old one here but still watched it. I have almost the same situation. Made mine out of 4ga jumper cables. Ran from battery to a relay to the bumper using 5/8" water hose as conduit, used the Anderson plug for connection. Works awesome. Dump trailer battery always charged/charging and gooseneck trailer with 9K winch always has power.
To fix your end cap issue, While looking in the plug, you’ll see two flat prongs, they are held in with a piece of sheet metal acting like a spring, hold that sheet metal down with a screw driver on both sides of the plug and you can pull the plug off. Slide the cover over your wires and insert them back in the plug again.
Thanks Tim for showing me the solution I’ve been looking for. I watched another video on the subject, but yours was the one I could follow (no surprise). Thanks too for the source of the kit you used. They sound like good people to work with.
We just installed the Pole Pal USA 7pc Dump Trailer Wiring Set on our PJ Dump Trailer and couldn't be happier! We have tried adding a solar panel but it still wasn't enough. We have 3 work trucks and 3 trailers (dump, equipment and enclosed) and plan to install the truck side wiring on all 3 trucks and the trailer side wiring on all 3 trailers. It is the best solution I have found by far! We will use the trucks battery and alternator to supply power to the pump on the dump trailer, winch on the equipment trailer and interior lighting, outlets and accessories on the enclosed trailer.
Hello Tim I made cable up for my dump trailer many years ago I used copper jumper cables and put ends on them like that. I got the ends from Amazon best trailer upgrade I also use that cable for the winch on my flatbed. Nice to have power to the back of the truck plus my winch goes in the back and front of the truck. I did the same thing for the tractor. You will love it. Good job.
Hey Tim . Thank you for sharing !!! It's your truck, your trailer, your wires , your channel, and your choice !!! Be safe my friend and GOD bless you all !!! In JESUS NAME !!! Christy , thanks for the Scripture !!!! Eddy
eh this is just a tough one, happy to see a different solution. honestly never knew about this . I run a solar charger and get more than 14 dumps a day per charge of deep cycle battery , cant see making that many days of repeated trips without benefit of using larger dump truck
Know what I learned today, Tim?!?!,.....that your kittens are among the cutest and sweetest helpers in the world. Now if we could just attach some flashlights and Go-Pros to them,.....(Ha!Ha!) You are a good soul Tim, to be able to handle all the comments fired at you. Between your video and all the comments, we should all be up to speed on the various ways we can do this job, and similar jobs. I learned several things. Hopefully, I can retain them in my memory banks.
I used a circuit breaker like that when I added an auxiliary battery for my freezer/fridge in the bed of my truck. I mounted it on the battery hold-down as you did. It's worked fine there and it's accessible, unlike if it was mounted on the firewall or inner fender. Concerning drilling a hole in your bed for the connector, if you decide to go that route then just commit to it. I'd had my brand new '01 GMC Sonoma for about 2 weeks before I drilled a hole in the roof for an antenna mount for Amateur Radio. I've never regretted it and wished I had done it on earlier vehicles instead of routing coax through the door openings. Don't underestimate the enjoyment of having things done 'properly', even if it means punching holes in a new vehicle, especially if you plan to keep the vehicle for any length of time.
Hi Tim, I enjoy your videos very much! I work for a trucking company that the trailers have electric over hydraulic lift gates. They make a 12 volt heavy duty pigtail connection that could be installed in your bed. It is a simple plug and play.
Hi Tim and Christy i have watched all your videos and i have never seen you do a shoddy job yet i think you done a good job and it works good job take care and stay safe
Back when I worked construction we used U-dump roll off dump trailers and they used the same connection on those trailers. Never had a problem with low battery as long as the connection was clean and made good contact.
I like the solution. I recommend mounting the first plugin under the hood and then an extended cable used at standstill outside the truck. Then you could run it to the trailer when needed to assist with the dump on both trailers and put it away otherwise. You could also use it with other projects, like powering a remote pump in a flooded basement etc. It would add the benefit of being a 30 foot jumper cable that could reach the front of a parked vehicle or remote winch. While it wouldn't provide the constant charge while driving, I suspect it could see more use.
I always worry about abrasion on wires. You might consider putting a jacket or loom over the cable just where it goes over the fuel tank. Cheap insurance. You did a great job; thanks for the tip on Polepal
There are two things I am amazed about, one is the size of trailers you have in the US, they are massive compared to what we have in the UK and the other thing is the 2" steel tube your tow bars are fitted to, I would never have thought they would be strong enough but they seem fine and I love how that same 2" fitting is used on the compact tractors for all sorts of things! Awesome ;-)
Tying your low trailer battery ~10v directly to your ~13v truck batteries creates huge inrush current that is hard on your battery. Thats why your 7 pin connector limits current to 1-2 amps. The breaker u installed is good to prevent fires from shorts but not designed to treat your battery nice A good approach with a low trailer battery given your setup is to plug in the 7 pin first for a period of time and then plug in your red cable once the trailer battery voltage has increased a bit to lower inrush current. In other words, drive to the dump site with 7 pin connected first, then plug in red wire when your ready to dump. Great channel Tim!
@@TractorTimewithTim right. How often do u attach jumper cables? Not very often. I imagine u will use your dump trailer more often in low battery situation than using jumper cables.
I use the same concept with a winch on a cradle, front and rear welding leads, Anderson plugs on both ends, and a cutoff switch, made some Jumper cables as well and a plug for a dump trailer as well. So far works great on all ends Next issue, mud and dust and rain will corrode those connections, check to make sure they are clean before u use em, the dust cover wont be enough, I positioned mine in the rear through a hole i made between the replacement steel bumper and the tailgate and have solved the soiled plug issue for the most part and in the front above the tow hooks On replacement bumper
Thank you for this video! Had 4 tons of class 2 road base on my new Carson with a dead battery! Felt bad for my two workers having to unload it by hand. BTW I love the Scripture you shared toward the end of the video. New sub here!
Yup. I do a lot of four wheeling and lots of people use this set up for rear temporary hitch mount winches and remote winches and remote welders. It works great. Those connectors also come in screw on so you can cut the wire short, same with the battery terminal connectors so you could trim that excess wire off of there to clean it up. You just have to make sure you have a two gauge crimper and then use some shrink wrap over it. A lot of four wheelers will also put multiple battery set ups with batteries in the truck bed or a toolbox that charge off of the alternator but you could also connect them there with short wires if you had that set up and not have to go all the way under the whole truck. You can also make extension cables so you don’t have to roll it up. also another hint about the mouse. Throw bounce dryer sheets in there, they don’t like the smell at all. Whenever I do any kind of construction in my house and open up a wall I always stick a couple in there and we packed our house to move from Illinois to Tennessee and I knew that the stuff might sit in the garage for a while and we had mice in the garage before so I bought a huge box of bounce dryer sheets and stuck them in all of my boxes and they ended up sitting in the garage for 14 months before we sold the house and when we got to Tennessee there wasn’t A single mouse in anything, we had packed clothes and pretty much everything you have in a house end it seem to keep the mice out. I wish I would’ve done it for the rest of our garage because we were in central Illinois and a while after they mowed the fields in the corn was gone they kind of found their way and everything. :/ I think you’ll love this connection on your truck and you’ll find a lot of uses for it, you can get welders to runoff of it you can put a large winch on the trailer hitch mount plate, it’s great for jumpstarting people on the trails, you can get some heavy gauge jumper cables and put a connector on the end and not even have to open your hood to jumpstart people now and it’s high voltage so it works great and fast. You may also want to put another connector on the front. A lot of four wheeler’s have them front and back and they’re incredibly useful on the trails, it’s very common to deal with dead batteries and running tools and compressors and welders and power jacks and it’s just really nice to have those external connectors so you don’t have to wire everything directly to a battery, you can also do 24 V set ups for some pretty powerful welders. I’ve got a 40 foot extension cable I can run my 40 amp 220 welder off of. They also have those types of connectors for different power ratings, you can get some that are twice that size or some that are half that size. You could even put a switch box in your house power and use your truck as a back up power generator to keep your essentials running. If you have a solar system on your house your truck could charge it pretty quickly if it’s set up correctly, if you live in an area with power issues it’s a great set up.
Those power connections you found have been used on electric forklifts for decades. They are really the only way to charge and maintain your battery(s) on your trailer. They are also used on some snowplows. Good recommendation by you. We have a guy who delivers firewood to us and his trailer's battery never has enough charge to dump the load. He ends up running jumper cables to his truck to finish dumping every time. He has done this for years. Funny part is he also delivers to tons of other customers doing the same thing.
Getting more than usual "You dun it wrong, or You shoulda dun it this way..." comments on this episode. I'm kinda surprised at this, because I thought this was a good idea, a good solution, and an inexpsnsive solution. Let me summarize so far: 1. Shoulda used black zip ties instead of white zip ties because the bright sunlight under the truck will destroy those white zip ties. 2. Forgot to mention that the kit includes a set of jumper cables with the Anderson connector on one end. Already used them...tremendous feature. 3. I failed to put the rubber 'pads' on the lift points when lifting the truck. Yes, this was an error. 4. Apparently, connecting a dead/weak battery to the truck will cause all kinds of serious damage. Never mind that we have been jump-starting vehicles with dead batteries ever since cars existed. 5. Our audio is horrible. Need a new microphone. Yes, we hear the crackling. First time we have heard this. Not sure what caused it. update: just ordered nearly $3000 worth of audio equipment today. Hopefully this will help. 6. Could have taken the Anderson connector apart to get the end cap on. ...I looked at it...didn't seem obvious how to take it apart. 7. Rather than getting a ladder to put my hood down, I should have lowered the lift. 8. Shoulda used a "snow plow relay" so that I won't drain the truck batteries. 9. Could have slid the end cap over the Anderson connector rather than using a zip tie. 10. I ran the cable over the fuel tank. it won't be long until my truck explodes in flames, generating a huge mushroom cloud! 11. This entire effort was stupid, as I should run electricity underground to the trailer parking area so that I could plug in the battery tenders to each trailer. 12. I could have used a solar panel to charge/maintain the batteries (I actually mention this one in the video.) 13. I apparently coiled the cable improperly. I should have used some over/under approach to keep from introducing twist in the cable. 14. The wire between the battery and the circuit breaker is too long. Gonna cause my truck to burn up. Not sure if the video was executed this poorly, or if we're all having a bad day today.
If it works for you it's good enough and a fine job completed. "Suggestions" can be irritating at times. Read or not but in the end what you did works.
I understand what you are saying with the comment "Apparently, connecting a dead/weak battery to the truck will cause all kinds of serious damage. Never mind that we have been jump-starting vehicles with dead batteries ever since cars existed." But... and this is a big BUT... vehicles of yesteryear are not the same as vehicles of today which, have little computers on everything from the engine ECU to your remote mirror/camera module. Jump starting things with today's modern computer controlled vehicles CAN lead to problems. That's why "jump boxes" are so popular.
It's a good thing you were put here to do you and yours the way you want to. I didn't see anyone that was bashing helping you or doing it for you. Human nature seems to be for everyone to focus on negativity instead of positivity.
Nice Tim, I have begun looking at dump trailers, I ran into a job this past weekend where I really needed one. Now I'm negotiating with the finace dept. on why I need a 3rd trailer. I borrowed a small one and spent more time working on it than it took for the job. Thanks for the video.
Sweet setup with the hoist in the shop. Your cable woes were solved by others before you brother. Here I am MI we run double trailers with lights and tarp winches. That calls for multiple cables between tractor and trailers. Check out some stuff on google you may get an idea for your truck.
I had this feature on my truck for years now. I ended up removing the battery all together, why maintain a extra battery. Lol my problem started with the connectors, it was so hard to plug them together after about 6months. Yes I bought spray to lubricate it with but nothing seemed to work. I ended up putting jumper cable ends on it and hooked it up. I still never liked that so I found a male and female round connector, looks about like a pencil shape and size works great. I hope you have better luck with yours!
Your lift looks like it has a metal landing pad on your frame rail. Generally, there is a rubber pad with 2 metal lips to capture the frame rail so it can’t slip. Might want to look into that for the future.
I'm old and been towing trailers for over 4 decades now. Probably don't need to now with modern vehicles but I always unplug a 7 way connector if hooked to an R.V. or dump trailer. Waking up to a dead truck battery after leaving it plugged into a travel trailer overnight taught me that. The truck battery discharged into the R.V. batteries..... On my dump trailer battery I just keep it in the shop on a trickle charger and install it when I need the trailer. 10 minutes and battery is always 100% charged.
Good morning Tim just getting my morning started here in south Alabama. Those cats are something else man lol 😆 I’m not sure if you know but they also make jumper cables that plugs right into that . Great video man thanks for sharing keep them videos rolling
i have a 16 foot dump, have never not had enough power yet to dump, but I do see this being a lifesaver. I do agree with you on the plug ends, they need a system that can mount on a truck much like trailer wiring so its a clean install, not just dangling. (honestly a deal breaker for me on my brand new truck,a older truck sure) I have looked online though and dont see anything so maybe they are working with what is available.
I have had no battery charge happen more than I want to admit. I added a plug in trickle charger to my battery box that I keep plugged in all the time. It is sometimes months between when I use my trailer and so far the majority of the trips I've made are less than 20 miles one way. Not much time for charging. I do like this solution. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Tim two tings the hole in the plug are for mounting it look at tow truck you need circuit breakers at all batters ,have a jumper wire to go from back of truck to in truck bed hope it helps
Hi Tim Always enjoy your videos! I had ordered the Lube Shuttle Safe Lock and tried it out............IT IS JUNK..........Now I ordered the Lock and Lube, jury is still out hasn't got here yet, should've listened to you Thanks ..........Oh yea, had the same wiring on one of my trucks, worked good, had a front and rear connection for a winch and also have jumper cables with those connectors, can jump front or rear, switch in cab to turn it on and off.
I have used a lift for the past fifteen years being a full time mechanic and you need the pads for the lift arms metal on metal slides and that's a good way to get hurt or even lose that nice new truck
all good. just dont wanna see something happen to you or that beauty ford. I dropped a truck off a 2 post hoist. when I first started the trade cause I was miss informed. and I enjoy watching all your videos
@@TractorTimewithTim I apologise i was not pounding at all just trying to emphasize the safety factor because we all know that if your down for the count we can't get any more videos lol
Nice mod to save you some headaches. I’ve been really pleased with my interstate battery. I’ll charge it about every 6mo and has not let me down for monthly use and any extra I do. That does remind me that It’s about that time to recharge.
Cole the Cornstar just did this on a semi to run the mixer on their sprayer trailer. Ford surely knows people are doing this all the time. Would be nice if they added an accessory power connection in the back somewhere. I guess that's why we have PolePal huh?!
If you have the outfitter switches on the F2 5350 and above they have pre-terminated under hood in cabinet and under bed wiring connections of different amperage is available I think his truck actually has this already saved him some wiring but then again got a cool sponsorship that he deserves it he’s a hard worker!!
I've been using Anderson connectors for years instead of buying batteries for my dump trailers and brush chipper. which sit more than they are used. Batteries don't last long these days if the don't get enough exercise. I just buy 50 foot of #2 cable and run only a Hot+ cable from the battery to the rear of the truck. My negative cable is about 2 feet long and grounds to the frame at the rear of the truck. Then a + & - cable to the battery cables of the dump or chipper.
Hay tim. Did you forget something. Isnt your gooseneck flatbed a hydraulic dovetail. You should bolt the plug to your back bumper. Also maybe look into protecting trl batteries with circuit breaker there also I want to get belly toolboxes mounted on my trk and put onboard air and my 1000 watt pure sine inverter in the passenger side one with 4 gauge minimum running through a snow solenoid feeding a deep cycle or 2 to run them when trk is off. I want train horn on trk lol but mainly at 2 tractor events i needed air and then i plan to get a pickup camper and put on my flatbed. Most campers now days dont have a 3 way fridge so no 12v option. Oh but ill have 1000w on trk so when driving no worries but also for my tractor show i got 200w of solar to charge my inverters battery so i can run a fan and charge my phone
Here’s another tip for memorizing your lift points on different vehicles. Paint them. It doesn’t even have to be obvious you could use a dark gray or something but if you just paint all of your lift points you won’t have to memorize them. I’ve seen a lot of guys who do custom cars and Corvettes and they’ll actually replace those lift points with an anodized aluminum billet piece. But if you just go under there with some implement paint and clean it well and put a little yellow or gray circle, something that’s just easier to see then you won’t have to check the manual every time. You could even write the puck size,or whatever you call that little riser you put on the end of the arm, on there. You can also label those different lift pieces and just put the different vehicle names on there for quick reference.
Hi Tim , I bought this wire kit . I’m confused on how to wire the fuse box. Thank you for the video. Is there any way you can help me with more instructions on the wiring connecting the fuse box to the battery . Thank you
Tim, those connectors are available online. They come according to the gauge cable and amp rating. The Red Anderson connectors you have appear to be 175 amp. We use those connectors on electric forklifts. I highly recommend die-electric grease on the connector lugs. You may also want to use armor wrap (spiral Wrap) anywhere you tie your cable to the truck. Highly abrasion resistant and an added layer of insulation. You can use heat shrink tubing on your truck side cable ends rather than electrical tape.
Lots of devoted fishermen use a similar hook up to charge their trolling motor batteries while towing their boat. Awesome addition Tim. Just remember, We are only human. Mistakes happen.
If you don’t have this set up and your trailer battery is dead, what is the best way to get the trailer to dump? (Without a shovel) Can you use long jumper cables from your truck to trailer to help or a booster pack on the trailer battery?
My dad and I bought the connectors and made our own cables using welding lead cables and bolted the connector to the bumper. It looks factory. We use it for the Jack, winch, and lift. Used melted lead to secure the stranded cables to the connector terminals.
It's funny because I just purchased this kit from the same company before seeing this video, you can slip the cover for plug on after you run the wires lol. I was laughing while you zip tied it 🤣
Tim I found a "panel mount" Anderson connector I sent you a screenshot of it to your Facebook account. Also I feel that if you take a heatgun and heat that dust cover sleeve it will stretch around the connector and you can lose the zip tie.
@Ttwt a good way to bring that connector back to the bed hitches run another short set of cord up there. I'm sure the company you bought the cord can make you a nine foot double connector. "Please head this advise" if you plant on long term connection please invest in an battery isolator, they can be bought at major auto parts store & will allow the trailer to charge but will not allow the trailer to drain your trucks batteries.
Those Anderson Power Pole connectors' end caps will stretch to go around the connector, at least in the summer. I've got the connectors on my truck's winch, trailer's winch, and the winch on my wife's Trailblazer, as well as on a 25ft set of bumper cables I made, which also power the winch/trailer battery like you're doing.
You did a great job maybe check out a shop that does custom truck beds they maybe able to slit that wire and install one in the bed for the gooseneck . But you did a better job then the guys at my old job and we used those plugs on a semi trailer. Aging great video sir . Ps cats are the stars ⭐️ lol 😂
I've got the same set up on my truck but I came under the truck then up between the cab an bed then under the edge of the bed rails to the back works great for my winch an I just carry a longer pigtail for the bumper pull
Check out purkeys charger. boosts the trickle charger to quickly charge and regenerate. Been using for about 2 years with dump trailer and have not had failure to dump yet
Hi Tim. I think you may be able to save the dust cover issue. If you want to. Usually those plastic cover/connectors have an internal lock of sorts. Look down the back side. Typically there is a tab on the swaged metal end that once it passes by a mating tab of the housing locks the wire in place. If you can get a pick or small screwdriver down in there to bend the metal tang out of the way, the wire will pull out. You will probably have to bend it back slightly before you put the wire back in the housing.
That's a great product for AUX power to the trailers and many other things. That hump on your yard looks like several hundred trailer loads. I hope the dump site is very close.
You could make another short 6-8 foot jumper to run from under the bumper over the tailgate and to the gooseneck? Is the endcap loop rubber? Mine I could stretch over the end of the connector. After a few years the rubber has degraded and the rubber snapped anyways. Now I have short loops of wire through the Anderson connector to hold the rubber caps on.
Put an insulated post on the frame near the bumper. It would allow you to "split" positive and have one in the bed and one on the bumper. Try feeding the cap through the loop after wrapping it around the cables?
I just junked my emergency breakaway system battery, hooked it up to my big battery, and used the breakaway charging wiring and diode to hook to the regular battery.
We used to run cables for tailgate lifts and we used to cover wires with plastic wire loom to cables as we would run them to help protect them from wear
Hi Tim! Just bought my 1st dump trailer on Thursday and absolutely love it. I remembered this episode and watched it again. I definitely plan on doing this seeing that I've almost killed the battery already. I was wondering if you would have done anything different? Now that it's been on for a few months. Do you like the quality and overall performance? Maybe do an update video! Thank you, I would definitely appreciate any input
8:30 you should have lifting pads that keep the metal to metal away. That way there is no slipping... it should be in your parts with the lift every one comes with it. Much safer to use them and no rust since you won’t be a scratching up the frame rails.
Tim just a heads up when lifting your truck metal on metal is slippery you should put some wood or rubber between the truck and the lifting point I have had a vehicle slip off a twin post before !
Spray paint the lift spots so you can find them easier next time as you don't use often. A cheap endoscope that plugs into or just links to a phone is a good tool for investigating spots you can't see into normally. I have a little 5mm camera with the lights I can fit into some very small holes to get a look behind the surface without any teardown needed. Can even look inside an engine when doing a oil change or into a cylinder by entering the spark plug or fuel injector holes. Also works for fishing screws and pins out of spots as it comes with a magnet attachment so can see where you are aiming as you try to stick it.
Hi Tim, Great video as always. For running the heavy cables through the underside of the truck, I recommend that you at least double the amount of wire ties. From the video, yours didn't look very large, and it won't be long before you see some start to break. You also commented about adding steel wool to plug the holes to prevent mice. Instead try the metal kitchen pot scrubbers. They can be cut smaller with shears, and won't rust like steel wool. One last comment, I wonder about the practicality of having a dump trailer use a small engine driven hydraulic pump instead of electric.Especially these days, small engines are pretty reliable, and it eliminates all the battery charging issues. I've never seen one, but it would be interesting to try it. The reservoir wouldn't need to be very large, as the pump doesn't run continuously.
Great video! I like what you have done to fix this dump trailer problem, however, I have more than 1 truck that I tow my trailer with. I fixed the problem for me with heavy duty jumper cable from Polar Wire products from Anchorage Alaska. This way no matter which truck I pull trailer with I can dump it without running out on power. But I do like the video very much Thank You.
Does your F-350 have holes with plastic covers (maybe 4" across) like my F-150? That might be an option for getting the power cable into the bed without making an additional hole. I used them for the snorkels on my bed cover (of course I broke the clips on both, I've had new ones laying in a cabinet in the garage for 2 years. I might get them installed some day....)
Hi Tim, I would recommend you mount a 300 amp relay under the hood and control the power to the relay using one of your overhead auxiliary switches that way there is not power running in the positive battery cable when the truck is not in use. You would be surprised what gets on top of the gas tank as far as rocks when you travel gravel back roads. I use 2" split loom over battery cables that go into areas that I cannot see or reach for some extra protection. The end plug where the two cables connect has two hoes that you can use to bolt the end of the plug down to the bumper so it is easier to plug the other cable into and it won't bang around.
Sorry Tim , I did not mean to offend you. Just offering some suggestions as I do this kind of work every day. If it works for you that works for us. Keep on making great videos.
I have something similar on a truck and had corrosion issue on plug at rear of Truck. Trip circuit breaker off when not in use and it prevents corrosion at rear plug. No Current no corrosion. Little lesson I learned the hard way.
On my Peterbilt I have a two pole connector for charging batteries on a specialized trailer I use. Looks the same as a seven way but is for hot and ground. That should work well in the bed of the truck.
I always run an anderson connector to the front and rear bumpers of every truck I've owned. Perfect for jumping other trucks, winches, or whatever you want to power.
Tim, I'm so glad you made this video. Been trying to spread this on every forum - I used a 0 gauge welding cable. But a picture is worth a thousand words, and a video is worth a thousand pictures!
I did this right away on my truck when I bought my dump trailer and it works good. Have a great day be safe.
Hey old one here but still watched it. I have almost the same situation. Made mine out of 4ga jumper cables. Ran from battery to a relay to the bumper using 5/8" water hose as conduit, used the Anderson plug for connection. Works awesome. Dump trailer battery always charged/charging and gooseneck trailer with 9K winch always has power.
To fix your end cap issue,
While looking in the plug, you’ll see two flat prongs, they are held in with a piece of sheet metal acting like a spring, hold that sheet metal down with a screw driver on both sides of the plug and you can pull the plug off. Slide the cover over your wires and insert them back in the plug again.
Thanks Tim for showing me the solution I’ve been looking for. I watched another video on the subject, but yours was the one I could follow (no surprise). Thanks too for the source of the kit you used. They sound like good people to work with.
We just installed the Pole Pal USA 7pc Dump Trailer Wiring Set on our PJ Dump Trailer and couldn't be happier! We have tried adding a solar panel but it still wasn't enough. We have 3 work trucks and 3 trailers (dump, equipment and enclosed) and plan to install the truck side wiring on all 3 trucks and the trailer side wiring on all 3 trailers. It is the best solution I have found by far! We will use the trucks battery and alternator to supply power to the pump on the dump trailer, winch on the equipment trailer and interior lighting, outlets and accessories on the enclosed trailer.
I think the star of this video was the cat catching and playing with the field mouse in the background. Sorry Tim your out. Lol
Oh absolutely.
That's why actors don't want to work in a production involving animals because they steal the show everytime.
Hello Tim I made cable up for my dump trailer many years ago I used copper jumper cables and put ends on them like that. I got the ends from Amazon best trailer upgrade I also use that cable for the winch on my flatbed. Nice to have power to the back of the truck plus my winch goes in the back and front of the truck. I did the same thing for the tractor. You will love it. Good job.
Glad you finally took my advice....been the best thing I ever done on any trailer with a wench or my dump
Excellent video. Great points presented with a real life install. So glad you kept the little mistakes so most of use won’t repeat them.
I like your simple solution. Giving yourself time and the ability to research more options, but still solving the problem short term is great.
Hey Tim . Thank you for sharing !!! It's your truck, your trailer, your wires , your channel, and your choice !!! Be safe my friend and GOD bless you all !!! In JESUS NAME !!! Christy , thanks for the Scripture !!!! Eddy
eh this is just a tough one, happy to see a different solution. honestly never knew about this . I run a solar charger and get more than 14 dumps a day per charge of deep cycle battery , cant see making that many days of repeated trips without benefit of using larger dump truck
Know what I learned today, Tim?!?!,.....that your kittens are among the cutest and sweetest helpers in the world. Now if we could just attach some flashlights and Go-Pros to them,.....(Ha!Ha!) You are a good soul Tim, to be able to handle all the comments fired at you. Between your video and all the comments, we should all be up to speed on the various ways we can do this job, and similar jobs. I learned several things. Hopefully, I can retain them in my memory banks.
It was good to see the supervisor (cat) double checking your work😂
I used a circuit breaker like that when I added an auxiliary battery for my freezer/fridge in the bed of my truck. I mounted it on the battery hold-down as you did. It's worked fine there and it's accessible, unlike if it was mounted on the firewall or inner fender.
Concerning drilling a hole in your bed for the connector, if you decide to go that route then just commit to it. I'd had my brand new '01 GMC Sonoma for about 2 weeks before I drilled a hole in the roof for an antenna mount for Amateur Radio. I've never regretted it and wished I had done it on earlier vehicles instead of routing coax through the door openings. Don't underestimate the enjoyment of having things done 'properly', even if it means punching holes in a new vehicle, especially if you plan to keep the vehicle for any length of time.
Thanks for the encouragement. I think you are right...I need to mount it in the bed. I'll get the courage at some point :-)
Hi Tim, I enjoy your videos very much! I work for a trucking company that the trailers have electric over hydraulic lift gates. They make a 12 volt heavy duty pigtail connection that could be installed in your bed. It is a simple plug and play.
I have to stop watching your channel, lol, first a new 1025r a few weeks back and now the trailer power cables! Thanks for the discount codes!
Hi Tim and Christy i have watched all your videos and i have never seen you do a shoddy job yet i think you done a good job and it works good job take care and stay safe
Thanks Mike. Appreciate you sticking with us all these years!
@@TractorTimewithTim Its a pleasure Tim
Back when I worked construction we used U-dump roll off dump trailers and they used the same connection on those trailers. Never had a problem with low battery as long as the connection was clean and made good contact.
I like the solution. I recommend mounting the first plugin under the hood and then an extended cable used at standstill outside the truck. Then you could run it to the trailer when needed to assist with the dump on both trailers and put it away otherwise. You could also use it with other projects, like powering a remote pump in a flooded basement etc. It would add the benefit of being a 30 foot jumper cable that could reach the front of a parked vehicle or remote winch. While it wouldn't provide the constant charge while driving, I suspect it could see more use.
I always worry about abrasion on wires. You might consider putting a jacket or loom over the cable just where it goes over the fuel tank. Cheap insurance. You did a great job; thanks for the tip on Polepal
There are two things I am amazed about, one is the size of trailers you have in the US, they are massive compared to what we have in the UK and the other thing is the 2" steel tube your tow bars are fitted to, I would never have thought they would be strong enough but they seem fine and I love how that same 2" fitting is used on the compact tractors for all sorts of things! Awesome ;-)
Tying your low trailer battery ~10v directly to your ~13v truck batteries creates huge inrush current that is hard on your battery. Thats why your 7 pin connector limits current to 1-2 amps. The breaker u installed is good to prevent fires from shorts but not designed to treat your battery nice
A good approach with a low trailer battery given your setup is to plug in the 7 pin first for a period of time and then plug in your red cable once the trailer battery voltage has increased a bit to lower inrush current. In other words, drive to the dump site with 7 pin connected first, then plug in red wire when your ready to dump.
Great channel Tim!
No different than attaching jumper cables.
@@TractorTimewithTim right. How often do u attach jumper cables? Not very often. I imagine u will use your dump trailer more often in low battery situation than using jumper cables.
I use the same concept with a winch on a cradle, front and rear welding leads, Anderson plugs on both ends, and a cutoff switch, made some
Jumper cables as well and a plug for a dump trailer as well. So far works great on all ends
Next issue, mud and dust and rain will corrode those connections, check to make sure they are clean before u use em, the dust cover wont be enough,
I positioned mine in the rear through a hole i made between the replacement steel bumper and the tailgate and have solved the soiled plug issue for the most part and in the front above the tow hooks
On replacement bumper
Thank you for this video! Had 4 tons of class 2 road base on my new Carson with a dead battery! Felt bad for my two workers having to unload it by hand. BTW I love the Scripture you shared toward the end of the video. New sub here!
Welcome! Thanks for watching!
Yup. I do a lot of four wheeling and lots of people use this set up for rear temporary hitch mount winches and remote winches and remote welders. It works great. Those connectors also come in screw on so you can cut the wire short, same with the battery terminal connectors so you could trim that excess wire off of there to clean it up. You just have to make sure you have a two gauge crimper and then use some shrink wrap over it. A lot of four wheelers will also put multiple battery set ups with batteries in the truck bed or a toolbox that charge off of the alternator but you could also connect them there with short wires if you had that set up and not have to go all the way under the whole truck. You can also make extension cables so you don’t have to roll it up.
also another hint about the mouse. Throw bounce dryer sheets in there, they don’t like the smell at all. Whenever I do any kind of construction in my house and open up a wall I always stick a couple in there and we packed our house to move from Illinois to Tennessee and I knew that the stuff might sit in the garage for a while and we had mice in the garage before so I bought a huge box of bounce dryer sheets and stuck them in all of my boxes and they ended up sitting in the garage for 14 months before we sold the house and when we got to Tennessee there wasn’t A single mouse in anything, we had packed clothes and pretty much everything you have in a house end it seem to keep the mice out. I wish I would’ve done it for the rest of our garage because we were in central Illinois and a while after they mowed the fields in the corn was gone they kind of found their way and everything. :/
I think you’ll love this connection on your truck and you’ll find a lot of uses for it, you can get welders to runoff of it you can put a large winch on the trailer hitch mount plate, it’s great for jumpstarting people on the trails, you can get some heavy gauge jumper cables and put a connector on the end and not even have to open your hood to jumpstart people now and it’s high voltage so it works great and fast. You may also want to put another connector on the front. A lot of four wheeler’s have them front and back and they’re incredibly useful on the trails, it’s very common to deal with dead batteries and running tools and compressors and welders and power jacks and it’s just really nice to have those external connectors so you don’t have to wire everything directly to a battery, you can also do 24 V set ups for some pretty powerful welders. I’ve got a 40 foot extension cable I can run my 40 amp 220 welder off of. They also have those types of connectors for different power ratings, you can get some that are twice that size or some that are half that size. You could even put a switch box in your house power and use your truck as a back up power generator to keep your essentials running. If you have a solar system on your house your truck could charge it pretty quickly if it’s set up correctly, if you live in an area with power issues it’s a great set up.
Those power connections you found have been used on electric forklifts for decades. They are really the only way to charge and maintain your battery(s) on your trailer. They are also used on some snowplows. Good recommendation by you. We have a guy who delivers firewood to us and his trailer's battery never has enough charge to dump the load. He ends up running jumper cables to his truck to finish dumping every time. He has done this for years. Funny part is he also delivers to tons of other customers doing the same thing.
Getting more than usual "You dun it wrong, or You shoulda dun it this way..." comments on this episode. I'm kinda surprised at this, because I thought this was a good idea, a good solution, and an inexpsnsive solution.
Let me summarize so far:
1. Shoulda used black zip ties instead of white zip ties because the bright sunlight under the truck will destroy those white zip ties.
2. Forgot to mention that the kit includes a set of jumper cables with the Anderson connector on one end. Already used them...tremendous feature.
3. I failed to put the rubber 'pads' on the lift points when lifting the truck. Yes, this was an error.
4. Apparently, connecting a dead/weak battery to the truck will cause all kinds of serious damage. Never mind that we have been jump-starting vehicles with dead batteries ever since cars existed.
5. Our audio is horrible. Need a new microphone. Yes, we hear the crackling. First time we have heard this. Not sure what caused it. update: just ordered nearly $3000 worth of audio equipment today. Hopefully this will help.
6. Could have taken the Anderson connector apart to get the end cap on. ...I looked at it...didn't seem obvious how to take it apart.
7. Rather than getting a ladder to put my hood down, I should have lowered the lift.
8. Shoulda used a "snow plow relay" so that I won't drain the truck batteries.
9. Could have slid the end cap over the Anderson connector rather than using a zip tie.
10. I ran the cable over the fuel tank. it won't be long until my truck explodes in flames, generating a huge mushroom cloud!
11. This entire effort was stupid, as I should run electricity underground to the trailer parking area so that I could plug in the battery tenders to each trailer.
12. I could have used a solar panel to charge/maintain the batteries (I actually mention this one in the video.)
13. I apparently coiled the cable improperly. I should have used some over/under approach to keep from introducing twist in the cable.
14. The wire between the battery and the circuit breaker is too long. Gonna cause my truck to burn up.
Not sure if the video was executed this poorly, or if we're all having a bad day today.
If it works for you it's good enough and a fine job completed. "Suggestions" can be irritating at times. Read or not but in the end what you did works.
I understand what you are saying with the comment "Apparently, connecting a dead/weak battery to the truck will cause all kinds of serious damage. Never mind that we have been jump-starting vehicles with dead batteries ever since cars existed." But... and this is a big BUT... vehicles of yesteryear are not the same as vehicles of today which, have little computers on everything from the engine ECU to your remote mirror/camera module. Jump starting things with today's modern computer controlled vehicles CAN lead to problems. That's why "jump boxes" are so popular.
Dont ya know you shoulda just ran it on the exhaust🤣🤣!!
All good. In the end channel is getting plenty of engagement activity and you have a solution for your needs lol
It's a good thing you were put here to do you and yours the way you want to. I didn't see anyone that was bashing helping you or doing it for you. Human nature seems to be for everyone to focus on negativity instead of positivity.
Nice Tim, I have begun looking at dump trailers, I ran into a job this past weekend where I really needed one. Now I'm negotiating with the finace dept. on why I need a 3rd trailer. I borrowed a small one and spent more time working on it than it took for the job. Thanks for the video.
Sweet setup with the hoist in the shop. Your cable woes were solved by others before you brother. Here I am MI we run double trailers with lights and tarp winches. That calls for multiple cables between tractor and trailers. Check out some stuff on google you may get an idea for your truck.
Check out some stuff on google....is really not that helpful. If you have prodicts in mind, please tell me more.
I have a similar set, with jumper cable ends and I can confirm the little "trinkets" were part of both of my orders. I like doing business with them.
I had this feature on my truck for years now. I ended up removing the battery all together, why maintain a extra battery. Lol my problem started with the connectors, it was so hard to plug them together after about 6months. Yes I bought spray to lubricate it with but nothing seemed to work. I ended up putting jumper cable ends on it and hooked it up. I still never liked that so I found a male and female round connector, looks about like a pencil shape and size works great. I hope you have better luck with yours!
I use the Purkeys Boss battery charging system. Works great! Works with your trailer plug and steps up the charging voltage.
great video... Your cats stole the show.
Your lift looks like it has a metal landing pad on your frame rail. Generally, there is a rubber pad with 2 metal lips to capture the frame rail so it can’t slip. Might want to look into that for the future.
Saw that too
i was thinking the same thing sketchy
Yes, it was an error. Sorry.
@@TractorTimewithTim no need to be sorry, just want you to be alive to create more great content.
Tractor Time with Tim just want you to be safe so you can keep us informed 😀😀
I'm old and been towing trailers for over 4 decades now. Probably don't need to now with modern vehicles but I always unplug a 7 way connector if hooked to an R.V. or dump trailer. Waking up to a dead truck battery after leaving it plugged into a travel trailer overnight taught me that. The truck battery discharged into the R.V. batteries..... On my dump trailer battery I just keep it in the shop on a trickle charger and install it when I need the trailer. 10 minutes and battery is always 100% charged.
Good morning Tim just getting my morning started here in south Alabama. Those cats are something else man lol 😆 I’m not sure if you know but they also make jumper cables that plugs right into that . Great video man thanks for sharing keep them videos rolling
Ugh. Forgot to mention that. I have a set ...came in the package deal!!
Tractor Time with Tim looking forward to the next video
Very interesting solution for my dump trailer that drains the battery in one dump! Thanks again!
You may have the black plugs in your bed which you could run the cable through.
Great job with the videos!
i have a 16 foot dump, have never not had enough power yet to dump, but I do see this being a lifesaver. I do agree with you on the plug ends, they need a system that can mount on a truck much like trailer wiring so its a clean install, not just dangling. (honestly a deal breaker for me on my brand new truck,a older truck sure) I have looked online though and dont see anything so maybe they are working with what is available.
I have had no battery charge happen more than I want to admit. I added a plug in trickle charger to my battery box that I keep plugged in all the time. It is sometimes months between when I use my trailer and so far the majority of the trips I've made are less than 20 miles one way. Not much time for charging. I do like this solution. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Tim two tings the hole in the plug are for mounting it look at tow truck you need circuit breakers at all batters ,have a jumper wire to go from back of truck to in truck bed hope it helps
Love the cats being involved in all your recent videos
Another informative and great video. Thank You.
Hi Tim Always enjoy your videos! I had ordered the Lube Shuttle Safe Lock and tried it out............IT IS JUNK..........Now I ordered the Lock and Lube, jury is still out hasn't got here yet, should've listened to you Thanks ..........Oh yea, had the same wiring on one of my trucks, worked good, had a front and rear connection for a winch and also have jumper cables with those connectors, can jump front or rear, switch in cab to turn it on and off.
Yea...but the lube shuttle gun system is great!
Remember to get the metric to sae adapter to get the lock n lube to fit the lube shuttle gun.
Yep, lube shuttle is great and I ordered the adapter from you too. Thanks
does that hoist not have pads to go ontop of the risers? I see that falling off one day. I've used those hoist for 15 years
I think maybe it does. I’ll look. Wow. Hard for me to keep everything straight!
I have used a lift for the past fifteen years being a full time mechanic and you need the pads for the lift arms metal on metal slides and that's a good way to get hurt or even lose that nice new truck
all good. just dont wanna see something happen to you or that beauty ford. I dropped a truck off a 2 post hoist. when I first started the trade cause I was miss informed. and I enjoy watching all your videos
David Odette penalty on the play. Personal foul. Late Hit! Dude, I already humbly admitted that I missed that. Why keep pounding me?
@@TractorTimewithTim I apologise i was not pounding at all just trying to emphasize the safety factor because we all know that if your down for the count we can't get any more videos lol
Nice mod to save you some headaches. I’ve been really pleased with my interstate battery. I’ll charge it about every 6mo and has not let me down for monthly use and any extra I do. That does remind me that It’s about that time to recharge.
Great video! I might have to share this for my landscape buds! Great solution!
Cole the Cornstar just did this on a semi to run the mixer on their sprayer trailer. Ford surely knows people are doing this all the time. Would be nice if they added an accessory power connection in the back somewhere. I guess that's why we have PolePal huh?!
If you have the outfitter switches on the F2 5350 and above they have pre-terminated under hood in cabinet and under bed wiring connections of different amperage is available I think his truck actually has this already saved him some wiring but then again got a cool sponsorship that he deserves it he’s a hard worker!!
I've been using Anderson connectors for years instead of buying batteries for my dump trailers and brush chipper. which sit more than they are used. Batteries don't last long these days if the don't get enough exercise. I just buy 50 foot of #2 cable and run only a Hot+ cable from the battery to the rear of the truck. My negative cable is about 2 feet long and grounds to the frame at the rear of the truck. Then a + & - cable to the battery cables of the dump or chipper.
Great Job Tim 👍
Hay tim. Did you forget something. Isnt your gooseneck flatbed a hydraulic dovetail. You should bolt the plug to your back bumper. Also maybe look into protecting trl batteries with circuit breaker there also
I want to get belly toolboxes mounted on my trk and put onboard air and my 1000 watt pure sine inverter in the passenger side one with 4 gauge minimum running through a snow solenoid feeding a deep cycle or 2 to run them when trk is off. I want train horn on trk lol but mainly at 2 tractor events i needed air and then i plan to get a pickup camper and put on my flatbed. Most campers now days dont have a 3 way fridge so no 12v option. Oh but ill have 1000w on trk so when driving no worries but also for my tractor show i got 200w of solar to charge my inverters battery so i can run a fan and charge my phone
Here’s another tip for memorizing your lift points on different vehicles. Paint them. It doesn’t even have to be obvious you could use a dark gray or something but if you just paint all of your lift points you won’t have to memorize them. I’ve seen a lot of guys who do custom cars and Corvettes and they’ll actually replace those lift points with an anodized aluminum billet piece. But if you just go under there with some implement paint and clean it well and put a little yellow or gray circle, something that’s just easier to see then you won’t have to check the manual every time. You could even write the puck size,or whatever you call that little riser you put on the end of the arm, on there. You can also label those different lift pieces and just put the different vehicle names on there for quick reference.
Hi Tim , I bought this wire kit . I’m confused on how to wire the fuse box. Thank you for the video. Is there any way you can help me with more instructions on the wiring connecting the fuse box to the battery . Thank you
Great video tim and nice job ,and with a running engine you have always enough power for the trailer
Katz have not missed one shot of you in video, little hams. Good idea with wiring.
Cat is playing with a mouse in the background!! Good work kitty cat!!!
Tim, those connectors are available online. They come according to the gauge cable and amp rating. The Red Anderson connectors you have appear to be 175 amp. We use those connectors on electric forklifts. I highly recommend die-electric grease on the connector lugs. You may also want to use armor wrap (spiral Wrap) anywhere you tie your cable to the truck. Highly abrasion resistant and an added layer of insulation. You can use heat shrink tubing on your truck side cable ends rather than electrical tape.
For securing the wiring on the trailer side to the gooseneck look into adel clamps. The are made to secure wiring and hydraulic hoses to the frame.
Lots of devoted fishermen use a similar hook up to charge their trolling motor batteries while towing their boat. Awesome addition Tim. Just remember, We are only human. Mistakes happen.
If you don’t have this set up and your trailer battery is dead, what is the best way to get the trailer to dump? (Without a shovel) Can you use long jumper cables from your truck to trailer to help or a booster pack on the trailer battery?
Booster cables will work.
Thanks Tim! Enjoy watching from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada!
My dad and I bought the connectors and made our own cables using welding lead cables and bolted the connector to the bumper. It looks factory. We use it for the Jack, winch, and lift. Used melted lead to secure the stranded cables to the connector terminals.
What size circuit breaker did you use?
I’m looking to wire my truck just like you did but not sure what size breaker to use. Can you tell me please ?
It's funny because I just purchased this kit from the same company before seeing this video, you can slip the cover for plug on after you run the wires lol. I was laughing while you zip tied it 🤣
Tim I found a "panel mount" Anderson connector I sent you a screenshot of it to your Facebook account. Also I feel that if you take a heatgun and heat that dust cover sleeve it will stretch around the connector and you can lose the zip tie.
@Ttwt a good way to bring that connector back to the bed hitches run another short set of cord up there. I'm sure the company you bought the cord can make you a nine foot double connector. "Please head this advise" if you plant on long term connection please invest in an battery isolator, they can be bought at major auto parts store & will allow the trailer to charge but will not allow the trailer to drain your trucks batteries.
What size or Volt DC to DC battery charger would you need to charge those 2 deep cell batteries?
25 amps? 40 amps?
Those Anderson Power Pole connectors' end caps will stretch to go around the connector, at least in the summer. I've got the connectors on my truck's winch, trailer's winch, and the winch on my wife's Trailblazer, as well as on a 25ft set of bumper cables I made, which also power the winch/trailer battery like you're doing.
16:20 I believe you can disassemble the connector and place the cover over the wire then.
2 observations down, 8 to go. (or you can just read the pinned comment to save some time :-) )
You did a great job maybe check out a shop that does custom truck beds they maybe able to slit that wire and install one in the bed for the gooseneck . But you did a better job then the guys at my old job and we used those plugs on a semi trailer. Aging great video sir . Ps cats are the stars ⭐️ lol 😂
I've got the same set up on my truck but I came under the truck then up between the cab an bed then under the edge of the bed rails to the back works great for my winch an I just carry a longer pigtail for the bumper pull
Tim, will this polepal setup work with an f250, gas truck? I only have 1 battery and alternator.
Yes. I think discount code is gone now. Sorry
Check out purkeys charger. boosts the trickle charger to quickly charge and regenerate. Been using for about 2 years with dump trailer and have not had failure to dump yet
Hi Tim. I think you may be able to save the dust cover issue. If you want to. Usually those plastic cover/connectors have an internal lock of sorts. Look down the back side. Typically there is a tab on the swaged metal end that once it passes by a mating tab of the housing locks the wire in place. If you can get a pick or small screwdriver down in there to bend the metal tang out of the way, the wire will pull out. You will probably have to bend it back slightly before you put the wire back in the housing.
That's a great product for AUX power to the trailers and many other things. That hump on your yard looks like several hundred trailer loads. I hope the dump site is very close.
Good ideal for the battery, nice trailers especially the flat bed
You could make another short 6-8 foot jumper to run from under the bumper over the tailgate and to the gooseneck? Is the endcap loop rubber? Mine I could stretch over the end of the connector. After a few years the rubber has degraded and the rubber snapped anyways. Now I have short loops of wire through the Anderson connector to hold the rubber caps on.
Put an insulated post on the frame near the bumper. It would allow you to "split" positive and have one in the bed and one on the bumper.
Try feeding the cap through the loop after wrapping it around the cables?
I just junked my emergency breakaway system battery, hooked it up to my big battery, and used the breakaway charging wiring and diode to hook to the regular battery.
We used to run cables for tailgate lifts and we used to cover wires with plastic wire loom to cables as we would run them to help protect them from wear
Shouldn’t there be some fuse protection on the trailer battery as well?
Nice job Tim!!
Hi Tim! Just bought my 1st dump trailer on Thursday and absolutely love it. I remembered this episode and watched it again. I definitely plan on doing this seeing that I've almost killed the battery already. I was wondering if you would have done anything different? Now that it's been on for a few months. Do you like the quality and overall performance? Maybe do an update video! Thank you, I would definitely appreciate any input
Absolutely love it!
8:30 you should have lifting pads that keep the metal to metal away. That way there is no slipping... it should be in your parts with the lift every one comes with it. Much safer to use them and no rust since you won’t be a scratching up the frame rails.
That rubber loop won't stretch enough to go over the connector?
Tim just a heads up when lifting your truck metal on metal is slippery you should put some wood or rubber between the truck and the lifting point I have had a vehicle slip off a twin post before !
Yes, error on my part.
Spray paint the lift spots so you can find them easier next time as you don't use often.
A cheap endoscope that plugs into or just links to a phone is a good tool for investigating spots you can't see into normally. I have a little 5mm camera with the lights I can fit into some very small holes to get a look behind the surface without any teardown needed. Can even look inside an engine when doing a oil change or into a cylinder by entering the spark plug or fuel injector holes. Also works for fishing screws and pins out of spots as it comes with a magnet attachment so can see where you are aiming as you try to stick it.
I bought the kit but I don't know how to connect the circuit breaker wire on the truck battery. Would you explain how to do it? I'll appreciate that.
Hi Tim,
Great video as always.
For running the heavy cables through the underside of the truck, I recommend that you at least double the amount of wire ties. From the video, yours didn't look very large, and it won't be long before you see some start to break.
You also commented about adding steel wool to plug the holes to prevent mice. Instead try the metal kitchen pot scrubbers. They can be cut smaller with shears, and won't rust like steel wool.
One last comment, I wonder about the practicality of having a dump trailer use a small engine driven hydraulic pump instead of electric.Especially these days, small engines are pretty reliable, and it eliminates all the battery charging issues. I've never seen one, but it would be interesting to try it. The reservoir wouldn't need to be very large, as the pump doesn't run continuously.
What about the fuse. What Circuit breaker do you use. Breaker doesn't come with that wiring set up
Hey Tim I’m looking for the wording kit for my trailer where did you buy yours??
Listed in the video.
polepalusa.com
Used to be a ttwt discount. Not sure anymore.
Great video! I like what you have done to fix this dump trailer problem, however, I have more than 1 truck that I tow my trailer with. I fixed the problem for me with heavy duty jumper cable from Polar Wire products from Anchorage Alaska. This way no matter which truck I pull trailer with I can dump it without running out on power. But I do like the video very much Thank You.
Does your F-350 have holes with plastic covers (maybe 4" across) like my F-150? That might be an option for getting the power cable into the bed without making an additional hole. I used them for the snorkels on my bed cover (of course I broke the clips on both, I've had new ones laying in a cabinet in the garage for 2 years. I might get them installed some day....)
Always enjoy your vids
Hi Tim, I would recommend you mount a 300 amp relay under the hood and control the power to the relay using one of your overhead auxiliary switches that way there is not power running in the positive battery cable when the truck is not in use. You would be surprised what gets on top of the gas tank as far as rocks when you travel gravel back roads. I use 2" split loom over battery cables that go into areas that I cannot see or reach for some extra protection. The end plug where the two cables connect has two hoes that you can use to bolt the end of the plug down to the bumper so it is easier to plug the other cable into and it won't bang around.
Sorry Tim , I did not mean to offend you. Just offering some suggestions as I do this kind of work every day. If it works for you that works for us. Keep on making great videos.
I have something similar on a truck and had corrosion issue on plug at rear of Truck. Trip circuit breaker off when not in use and it prevents corrosion at rear plug. No Current no corrosion. Little lesson I learned the hard way.
On my Peterbilt I have a two pole connector for charging batteries on a specialized trailer I use. Looks the same as a seven way but is for hot and ground. That should work well in the bed of the truck.
Hello Tim, what is the model of the Challenger Lifts you are using with your F350 and are you happy with it?
I always run an anderson connector to the front and rear bumpers of every truck I've owned. Perfect for jumping other trucks, winches, or whatever you want to power.