Tim, one thing to consider when buying a "car trailer" to haul tractors or other equipment, is floor construction. When I was shopping for an aluminum trailer like this, I had 3 manufacturers tell me that their floors were not meant for the type of load that I wanted to haul. They told me that my compact tractor ( 3700 lbs ) with filled tires and weights was too much weight in a small area on the floor and to look at their equipment duty trailers. By talking to the manufacturers , I was able to avoid some common mistakes that people make, and purchase the right trailer the first time. Some of the dealers that I talked to were only interested in selling what they had on hand and never said anything about my intended use, so I would recommend calling the trailer manufacturer if you have any questions on which model would suit your needs.
Good Comment, I remember Messicks Equipment posted up a video of a skid loader theft, the thieves loaded it into an unsuitable box trailer which they had also stolen. Your comment is a reminder that just because a trailer is physically big enough it certainly doesn't mean it can handle the overall weight or weight distribution of a specific load.
I ordered my enclosed trailer above with extra crossmembers under the floor. This was after one manufacturer said their enclosed trailer was not good for my X738, maybe 1500 Lbs. loaded.
That is a nice light weight car hauler. I bought a steel 18 foot car hauler to tow my tractor. If I had it to do over, I would buy a dump trailer for Supreme versatility. Nice to see another Truck and Trailer Tuesday on Tractor Time With Tim!
IF you have a truck big enough to pull it safely. Edit: A relative has a 1-ton dump truck and a utility trailer for the small tractor. That combination works well.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD true, and i do have a sufficient truck, but I guess the dump trailer is the antithesis of this video - a light weight option for those with a smaller tow vehicle.
Good topic Tim (and team), you're definitely good at finding subjects that will interest your audience. I have both an aluminum trailer and a steel trailer, and both have their place. Aluminum: -Won't rust apart in the ~5 months of salted roads in my area of New England - just keep galvanic corrosion in mind (use stainless for d-rings, hardware, etc.) -Lighter (my 2990-rated 4.5x10 aluminum trailer weighs 400lbs empty, or 650 with spare, jack, and solid 32" wooden sides)-500-600lbs less than comparable steel trailers -Lighter=more payload: without the sides I can easily haul 2500lbs -Did I mention it'll look great in 25 years? A well-maintained steel trailer in my area will last 10-15 years before requiring significant work to repair rust...less if driven in salt often, more if parked for half the year Steel: -Cheaper (aluminum is roughly +25% compared to a quality steel trailer...not a huge difference) -More likely to bend instead of crack when used hard -More easily welded (D-rings, modifications, repairs) -More common and more easily built, so more options available In Europe I see a lot of galvanized steel trailers (and more dual-axle trailers pulled by small vehicles). Galvanized isn't too common in North America outside of boat trailers, but does seem to be getting more popular in Northern New England.
I've been running a 7K 16+2 landscape style trailer with a heavy duty ramp for 3 year's now! Weights around 2,200 lbs. The ramp has built-in feet verses the jacks plus I mounted a 6' truck chest to the front for all my storage. Works out perfect for what I need. Plus I haul my JD multiple times a week in different configurations. The key is to get something that works for you
Don’t forget to apply Thompson clear deck seal. Once a year their about. It’s gonna take more than one application. Wood if dry will soak 🛁 it in like a sponge. As that dries apply next coat. It saves the wood decking from rotting. Even if your trailer is stored under a shed wet tires mud, hose off. Make sure in the off season get some tire covers. Uv from the sun will rot the sun tires causing dry rot. Be sure to clean your tires and apply uv protection. Tire pressure must be correct to. Lube the bearings. Just my tip.
I agree with all the commenters welcoming return of TTT. I also second the one commenter's request for a video on enclosed trailers. Being short of storage space, I think the enclosed trailer may double-duty as equipment garage for many of us viewers.
Only issue with an enclosed trailer puling double duty as a garage you will find it often super full and no good place to store the stuff when you need the trailer. My sister borrowed my enclosed trailer and has had it for almost 3 years now as a garage. She has no place to unload it and store the stuff so I can actually use it as a trailer so essentially its a useless trailer and a easily stolen storage shed
@@mesanders1113 I was thinking of only using it to garage compact tractor and whichever attachments comfortably fit. I hear what you're saying about the danger of it filling up with other "junk." The issue of it being stolen together with all its contents does worry me. Any suggested solutions?
Totally agree. I have a 14 ft aluminum trailer that is 600 lbs, single axle with brakes. It can take about 2800 lbs to be under a max 3500. Tow it with my SUV which maxes out at 3500 lbs. That gives me enough for the BX23S - just - but is a cost effective option. Cheers.
My brother towed his 24 foot travel trailer all over with a smaller gmc suv. It did have the larger engine, and towing package that gave it more towing capacity. It did have lots of other issues that I figured developed because of the extreme usage in pulling the travel trailer thousands of miles. That is a very nice trailer. He could add more of the d-rings very easily.
I have an eighteen foot steel car hauler rated for 9990 GVW and the title says its scale weight is 2350. I think you might have over estimated a 7000 GVW steel trailer's weight a little. I verifies the weigh at a roadside scale. One thing I would encourage anyone to consider is not necessarily what you want to haul now, but consider also what you might want to haul later. I went with as much trailer as I could haul and still be under the commercial weight rating of #10,000. Above that weight in this state there is a grey area regarding scales and CDLs etc.
An Acadia can be rated at up to 5200 lbs, but I wouldn't come close to that lol. I had an S10 years ago, got rid of it for a small car that doubled my mpgs. Bought a small 6x10 trailer and can tow it behind my wife's Rav4. I don't need to take my tractor anywhere, so it's fine for me! Great for hauling household stuff, dirt, mulch, gravel, etc.
Mine is the same size but steal. Also it has spring loaded ramps on the back all the way across. Did it that way since Im getting older and dont want to mess with lifting them and moving them from under the trailer. Also, I dont have to worry about tipping the tractor. Buddy of mine had one ramp break as he was unloading his tractor due to bad welds.
Not a detail talked about, but it also looks like that trailer has spring axles instead of the torsion axles most aluminum trailers come with. I know torsion axles have a smoother ride, but I prefer the rebuildability of spring suspensions.
Dual torsion axles aren't always a great idea, especially if they'll be loaded near limit (they can't share load like a slipper or equalizer spring dual setup), so you don't see them too often.
@@TractorTimewithTim It does have spring axles. Although choice between spring or torsion bar wasn't one of my concerns. I was more concerned with the lighter weight aluminum frame which would maximize how much I could carry. 18 foot including dovetail was a must-have to make loading and unloading easier for a 1025R and attachments without being too long for my comfort level. Rub rails were a "want' that I was able to attain and a toolbox was must have to keep tie down straps and trailer together.
To me, spring axles or torsion axles don't matter as much as the GVW. If a trailer is used correctly and within its limits either suspension is fine. I'm more concerned with the lighter weight aluminum frame and the 7000 GVW which would maximize how much I could carry because not only do you have to stay within the trailer GVW you have to stay with the tow vehicles limits.
Tim, you were talking about need for more D rings, they make a D ring that goes into the stake pocket on the side. I have not found them at a 3rd party accessories retailer, but the dealer where I bought my PJ trailer can get them. I need to get 4 for my self to help with tying down my Honda Pioneer. That is a nice looking trailer. But I don't thing my Oliver will fit on it.
My enclosed trailer weight is 2550 lbs. I can haul my X738 or 2025R but tying down is a pain. Using the back jacks allows me to load not connected to a tow vehicle (probably not recommended). I no longer need this trailer and I have been looking for an all aluminum car hauler similar to what you showed here.
I bought an Aluma 20' trailer and I opted for the 5200# axles to get the GVW yo 9900 pounds. I have a JD2038R and putting the tractor with loader, tiller, and stump grinder on it put me right at 7000# GVW. I wanted some margin so I got the larger axles increasing the GVW. Also, the fenders come off so when you load a car on it you can open the door.
If you look at Diamond C trailers with their engineered beam construction, they are usually close to the weight of an aluminum trailer but with the strength of steel.
That's a good looking trailer. The only thing I don't like about a dovetail trailer is you have to be careful with ground clearance. The back end drags if you get on some uneven ground. But that's a nice trailer.
Well done, informative video once again Tim. Not sure if you are seeking video ideas, but I am researching for a future purchase of a enclosed trailer. The reason to go open vs enclosed is all about the intended application, isn’t it? With me already owning one trailer for my boat, my goal is to buy one and only one more trailer. Use would be hauling a sub-compact tractor and some implements, on separate trips a side-by-side, and hauling stuff including helping family and friends move. Occasionally fireplace wood hauling, but I’d line the walls and floor with something to protect it. The “stuff” lauding, such as helping people move, I believe would be the most frequent trailer typical use. I also like capability of using the enclosed trailer space for short term stuff storage with the stuff protected from the environment. To balance needs, space, and cost, I’m thinking a 16’ long + 18” Vee x 7’ wide x 6 1/2’ , twin 3,500 lb axels, steel, hopefully around $5,000 for new. Looking through Facebook marketplace, I’m seeing better prices on new then used. If a used trailer is well off the new cost, the pictures show a trailer unfit for use, which I am finding surprising. Thoughts?
@@TractorTimewithTim wow, you just verified what I am seeing. If used cost is so close to new, I may as well get exactly what I want and get new. This is incredibly opposite of, for example, a camper who’s value drops off a cliff as you drive off the dealers lot.
@@DougAlesUSA we spent a year looking at used before we bought this trailer. Any good deal on used would get bought up right away and the rest we found were not worth (in my opinion) the price being asked compared to just buying a new trailer.
@@TractorTimewithTim I also was guessing at 1500 for this trailer it could be a little heavier. It's a 7K label states max load capacity of 5080 pounds.
I just sold my 20 ft aluminum car hauler. waiting on 28 ft gooseneck, can not haul any thing more than kubota L6060 w/loader and one attachment.. needed more room for various implements.
One thing I haven’t really seen much but on a utility trailer I would love a big rock in the front. Old race trailer is used to be like that and a big rack on front where you can put eight tires up there. Having a rack to throw your handtools on and you can put your loader grappler up on there and a couple other thin implements or maybe even carry your mower deck on one of the shelves just in case you need that camera you could just carry a couple extra implements with you and some handtools and just get them up and out of the way with the weight forward and still have room for your backhoe and tractor without having to add 4 more feet to your trailer.
I wish there was an objective way to determine load balance. My 'expert" said just center the tractor on the trailer. That resulted in a significant trailer whip event (luckily I remembered to NOT brake). So much fun.
You want to put some weight on the tongue. Make sure the loaded trailer is always tongue heavy. ...but not overly so. I hope that makes sense. The 'whipping' is very dangerous, and is caused by the trailer be 'back heavy', removing weight from the rear of the towing vehicle.
@@TractorTimewithTim Understand. One issue is its difficult to figure out the tractor weight distribution with various attachments. I ended up putting the FEL bucket up against the trailer's front wall.Still lucky that I watched the Uhaul trailer video to NOT brake. Otherwise the almost automatic response would be to brake.
Just drive tractor forward until towing vehicle begins to squat...you can use that as a visual indicator of the load placed on the tongue. You can also buy a scale tongue which shows the weight being applied to the tongue if you are really concerned
Tim Dave gave me some good ideas my son and me are looking to punching a trailer I have 150 Ford 26 years old in perfect shape had it redone and have owned it from New 5 K is a lot buts cheaper than 60 K for a new truck thank you God Bless All PaK
Honestly my new 2019 F150 supercrew STX was $36,000 new and it has the 10spd auto and the 5.0 v8 it gets slightly over 20mpg has lots of creature comforts and can tow a bit over 9,000lbs with zero issues. Has a backup camera and everything. Also makes a decent family hauler for my wife and I with our daughter. A new truck was kinda a no brainer with as far as they come with technology like ABS brakes, back up camera, android auto, 100% integration of the trailer brakes, auto dimming headlights, advanced trac stability system. Its truly a nicely equipped cheaper truck. The 10spd auto has a gear for every situation and the 395hp v8 pulls like a champ. I was worried that it would not make a good truck motor as it loves to rev but it pulls my 30ft 8700lb RV trailer at a lower rpm than my 2010 gmc sierra 5.3 6spd auto does and gets better mileage.
I always watch TTWT. This is off base a little from this video but I’ve never seen one with storage of the Backhoe on the 1025 R or the 2038R I think I may have figured out an easier way to store my new 2038R Backhoe just wondering about your thoughts.
Interested too. I've been waiting for grass to stop growing so I can remove my rear finish mower and reinstall the backhoe. It's currently hogging up a parking space in front of my workshop.
On the deere instructions on the back of the Backhoe it says to put dipper stick straight up and down with bucket teeth parallel to the ground. I found that this way hydraulic cylinders bleed off when you go back to hook it up later one week or two you can’t hook it up. So I open bucket all the way close the cylinder and lean dip or stick off center and it’s seems to hold up longer. I think I need to make a brace between dipstick and lift arm maybe for long storage periods. A work in progress.
I think it’s definitely a good idea to use those jacks on the back of the trailer. Very important that the rear end of the tow vehicle doesn’t lift up lol
If his vehicle with out towing package it will tow 3000 and if it has with tow package it will tow 5000 . Make sure you have a trailer braking capability for safety. You suppose to back load and tow the 1025R .
Don't know if this link to a Facebook pic will let you see it or not: scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/107095152_10220718584626688_5983979521719698555_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=drgzcni_I_YAX9U9OoF&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.xx&oh=fd380325969304e2c263b1925832416e&oe=5FBF3D4A
I have an aluma trailer 7712H single axle, I wish I bought one bigger, but I bought it before I got my tractor, rated a 3K which is ok for just the tractor, but the loader puts me over....they are worth their wight in gold and save your back a thousand times over....
Tim great topic and video. Can you tell me what the make of the trailer is. I am in the market now for a aluminum trailer to tow with my F150. This is better for moving around and lighter. thanks
YAAAYYYY, Truck and Trailer Tuesdays on Tractor Time with Tim is back! Nice looking trailer, but since watching your videos (and others) I think I want a dump trailer to haul my MF 1742M. I'm not sure my 1/2 ton Silverado truck can haul it though. Where do you start the decision making process, with the trailer, or the tow vehicle?
How important are trailer brakes when dealing with this size trailer? Lets say you are getting loading closer to the GVWR rating, I would think that additional braking force would come in handy.
Anything over 5K requires brakes! I have 2 trailer's and have found that they are a necessity for stopping in time. I've been cut off multiple times and without those brakes, the outcome would have been different.
Towing anything like this with an Acadia/Traverse is a mistake!! Those were originally designed to tow 3000#, and when they decided to not bring the redesigned trailblazer to the US in 2009, they needed to fill that niche of a midsize that can tow, so after it was already designed, they decided to give it a 4000# tow rating. So really, it's only designed to tow 3000#, and those have big-time transmission and AWD issues even if you don't tow. Towing with a midsize is fine, like a triailblazer, grand cherokee, or a well optioned passport/Ridgeline, but that specific vehicle, the GM Lambda platform, is a problem with anything more than a couple dirt bikes or a quad on a trailer.
It's an incremental process. Like someone mentioned above about deciding whether to get a truck first or a trailer, I decided on the trailer so I could at least haul my tractor for short distances in order to help others out. Future plans will be be to replace the Acadia with a pickup truck that has higher towing capacity.
@@wingersww I'm just saying, those vehicles are not designed to tow more than 3k reliably. Safely, yes, because they have plenty of brakes and weight, but the chassis and power train wasn't designed for more than 3k. A 1025R with loader and attachment, you're probably at 5k behind it, just a wild guess.
While I wouldn't tow 5000 with one, I highly doubt GM would rate the tow rating higher than necessary for legal reasons. Is there evidence to support your statement?
@@valleytractorservices9310 a guy I've known from the trailblazer forums for about 13-14 years was a test engineer on the gmt360 platform and the lambda platform. I've heard the same thing from 2 other people who worked at GM Truck, as well. Other than on forums and stuff, it's not in an actual publication or anything that I've ever seen.
@@valleytractorservices9310 and as I said above, it's not that it's not safe (weight, length, brakes, etc), it's thst the power train wasn't designed for it. Basically, they figured it was cheaper to pay a little more warranty by stretching the limits of the transmission than it was to have a whole other platform that was stealing sales from the more profitable full-size SUVs.
Great subject Tim. Dave that’s a beautiful trailer. It looks like you have all the bells and whistles. Did you custom order the trailer and how long was the wait?
No, I bought it off the lot. The dealer had a good variety to look over and this is what I went with after comparing several brands from different local dealers. Some only could order what I wanted and the wait time was 8+ weeks.
I may have missed the comments for manufacturer and deck options. If so, can you re-state? It looks like a pretty good trailer for a half ton truck. Always good stuff on your channel......
We really weren’t trying to ‘sell’ the trailer. Look through the rest of the comments....I believe Dave has mentioned the manufacturer in reply to another such query.
I like seeing the trailer vids. & like that trailer (what brand trailer is it?). I'm thinking about an enclosed trailer to save the loading/unloading time & not need to keep the tractor/attachments inside plus can use the trailer to haul a car the couple times/year that I need. And then a dump bed insert w/salt spreader for the truck. The issue I see w/a dump trailer is once loaded, how do you haul the tractor?
Dump trailer: you haul the tractor to the job site, load the material, haul off the material, then return to the job site to pick up the tractor. Quite efficient, actually.
@@TractorTimewithTim Figured - Depends on where the job/home/disposal sites are in relation & then the space in the truck isn't really being utilized although I certainly wouldn't put a dump insert into a brand new truck like yours. Thx. for the insight - You obviously have the experience most of us don't. I'm just thinking it all through incl. what tractor to start out w/. What brand was that trailer? It looked every bit as nice or nicer than a Featherlite but less expensive. I liked the ramp & rear stabilizer setup (I've had a steel car trailer before) as well as the rub rail & removable fenders (at least driver's side - Don't usually see them on the pass. side). Thx. for all your help & great vids. I really learn a lot from them. BTW, on the way to my shop, I pass an old/abandoned Ventrac Dealer - Until watching your vids I never knew what Ventrac was. I'll have to stop and take a pic of the old sign that's still on the building and send it to you.
I've been looking at a similar trailer (10k#, though...), but it has the flip up ramps. With the flip up ramps, you don't really need the stabilizers in the rear, right?
@@wingersww The one I'm looking at has a 'foot' near the hinge of the ramp that looks like it would support that end of the trailer when weight would be put on it. I was just wondering if there was any reason to also have the drop-down stabilizers with this config?
@@lmychajluk there might other reasons but I believe the main reason for them is to support a heavier load that you would be putting on the trailer. My 1025r isn’t heavy enough even with attachments to worry about using them. But if I had fluid in the tires, wheel weights, a larger tractor, etc. I would probably be using them when loading and unloading.
What trailer where does this trailer come from? I live in South Alabama and have been looking for an aluminum trailer and haven't really found anything to compare to this.
You should have shown the tags on the trailer that shows empty weight and max GTW.. IMHO, unless he's loading on nothing heavier than a bare JD 1025 he shouldn't be towing that with the current vehicle... Again, JMHO..
no don't acid wash that makes it look old use shark hide i work at a local garbage pick up place here in Lewiston new york. they had every truck known from 18 wheel3ers to rear packers. for the different holiday parades we as the body shop would get the task of cleaning them up. we always used castle classic wheels acid wash. than one day a salesman brought a thing of shark hide by what a difference. it works the best on new clean aluminum o if not clean metal you need to clean before applying shark hide n
Hi Tim, I have a 1025R with attachments and I'm looking for a trailer, thank you for reviewing this model. It looks like a great trailer, what brand is it? I live in MI so I imagine I can find a dealer for this trailer in my area. Thank you for you and your videos. Go Green!
Thanks Tim, I found the brand name and was able to find a dealer close bye in MI. I will be looking for a new trailer in the spring and will be looking at this model. I love that it's Aluminum.
Only if you get exactly what you want at a price which is better than through the dealer. There is no ‘service’ of sorts necessary from a trailer dealer, so not much advantage there.
I have a 18ft 7k steel deck car hauler, weighs 2300 lbs. I don’t know of any 7-10k steel trailer that weighs 3k lbs...I think you exaggerated a bit there. You can save yourself a few hundred lbs with an aluminum trailer, but they sure are expensive!
When you go gooseneck, then you're getting into that kinda weight. I had a Lamar 20 ft gooseneck equipment trailer steel floor with 7k axles and weighed 3800 lbs.
@@wingersww that’s closer then I expected for payload. I did have to look out for heavy trailers when I was shopping, I have a truck and didn’t want to tow a sledge when I only needed 3000-3500 capacity. I like my built in ramps 99% of the time, but not today when they were sucking wind and the guy in the slow lane kept speed matching from 70-80 repeatedly, and 67 when I was behind them. It sounds like road rage but it was a q-tip that got on the highway well ahead of me and I changed lanes a couple hundred feet back so it’s not like I tailgated.........anyway I’m glad you like your trailer, that really is the only thing that matters.
@@TractorTimewithTim I will check it out. Thank you. Branson seems to be like a mix between Massey and maybe John Deere to me. I just haven't went down to Georgia to check them out.
Great video Tim. When I bought my Johnny the first thing I did was ditch my lightweight trailer to give home the ride he deserves. I landed on a trailer made by Rice which I bought from Kates in Illinois (just a few hours west of you I think - www.kateskars.com). The trailers are made with real attention to detail. I bought the 20+2 with ramps and although a bit heavy, I rides well behind my Dodge 3500. I like that I can haul Johnny and my side by side at the same time. It is a 16K with the optional running gear so can easily carry most equipment. The price point of these trailers can’t be beat either which was about $4500 for mine. Thanks again for the great videos and hope your health is still good.
Just pointed out to a friend the other day, now that owning a tractor has caused me to care about things like towing capacity, I’m starting to view the half-ton pickup category as basically, a harder-to-park, midsize truck with more leg-room. LOL Been on the fence about getting a trailer but not sure I can justify it. I’ve only had four instances in the past two years in which I *really* needed one, and those were ‘laying up treasure in heaven’ type jobs. For those of us who wouldn’t put many miles on a trailer, this option makes more sense than upgrading to a bigger truck that will always be less fuel efficient, even when not towing.
Lol. The age old aluminum versus steel debate. 😂😂 I like aluminum but it’s the precision version. It’s great it’s rust proof it’ll get the job done and it’s much more lighter and efficient, but once you bend it you got a throw it away and buy another one pretty much or have it completely chopped up and repaired because aluminum doesn’t do bending very well and old steel trailer been until it breaks and then you just throw some straps on it and squeeze it straight with a couple of straps of steel on the crack and you’re good to go for another 25 years years. I like aluminum for small trailers but I don’t know that I would get one Porten equipment trailer for ATVs or lawn tractor sure but I think if I’m gonna make a large investment I’m gonna go with steel, it’s heavier but as long as you hit it with some touch up paint every three or four years it’s going to be around 20 ears even if you overload it and bend it a little and if it bends and breaks you just twist it back weld it back up maybe throw a couple of gussets on there and some spray paint and you’re good for another 20 years. I had a friend spend $6000 on a small aluminum trailer and he came out in the parking lot and somebody backed into it and bent it, trying to repair it was a nightmare and it was still never straight again and for an equipment trailer I don’t want to be careful Farris Holly classic cars or something sure but for equipment trailer moving skid steer‘s and stuff like that then I wanna big D flea steel trailer and if you’re out on a job in Ben’s oh well it’s still going to get home aluminum doesn’t do that. When you bend it even if it’s not cracked that metal so weak at that point it’s just a matter of time before it cracks and it’s just not gonna be safe to toe anymore. I also don’t like dovetails under equipment trailers, they’re great for cars but I feel horrible tearing up parking lots all the time leaving gouges in the road and who knows what I’ve done to the bottom of the trailer at that point and especiallyIf I’m gonna be dragging it I want a big hunk of steel there because aluminum drains down way easier as well. Now if I was getting an ATV trailer and could afford it I would love the aluminum being able to hook it up to the hitch without even having to back the car up because I can pull it with my hands caring that light load it’s gonna be a nice easy ride and you’re not putting enough weight on it to really mess it up. It’s just kind of one of those situations where it depends on what’s the right tool for the right job. If he’s just taking his tractor from one place to the other every now and again it is staying on relatively flat ground then that’s perfect if he’s putting a big track loader or something on there every day that things not gonna last much more than a year if he’s lucky going in and out of huge ruts in construction sites and going over rocks with all that weight on it. That’s why it’s important to watch shows like this and do your research before you put the money into something so you really know what you need and what you’re getting is going to work for what you need to do. For me I think this aluminum trailer would be the best fit, I’m not doing skid steer’s or any of that stuff anymore timer for that I’d have to have steel but for a lot of people this will be a much better option with almost no maintenance and you get rid of the rust problems. For an aluminum trailer that looks great. :)
@@TractorTimewithTim he is friends with some other youtubers. you should see him on with logger wade or lets dig 18 when the uniform comes off the fun comes out
@@TractorTimewithTim 16′2400 lbs 18′2500 lbs 20′2600 lbs Off the pj website for th tilt. For the lighter car hauler pj 16′1800 lbs 20′2000 lbs I looked at a aluminum trailer myself and I didn't see the savings vs cost.
What a beautiful trailer. I truly love many of the attributes of this trailer. Weight being my number one favorite. Let us remember that aluminum corrodes, just not in the rust color in which steel will. Still have to keep it clean and maintain the decking boards. Very nice trailer and I certainly appreciate sharing.
@@wingersww The wood lasts longer than you think. My landscape trailer sits out in the PA weather 24x7 and has a wooden plank flooring. Each summer I clean the deck with a pressure washer and treat it with Thompson's Weather Seal. The trailer is going on 10 years old and the floor still looks like new.
@@eosjoe565 I plan similar upkeep for the floor on this one. But as long as I have space in the barn, keeping it out of the elements will extend it's life even more. I like keeping my new stuff looking new as long as possible.
@@SimonTekConley I would say an aluminum is fine for every other weekend use. I have a little 12footer aluminum single axle and it’s great for quick an easy tasks. It’s light enough I can push it through my yard by myself to where I store it behind my garage. But I agree that I wouldn’t want to use one for everyday use, I don’t think it would survive as well as a steel.
Well, one might need to know what grade aluminum is used before concluding it has "no flex". They make semi trailer flat decks to settle less more flat under load. Just like steel, aluminum has grades for flex and strength. The right choice gives the needed strength and flex. Now whether or not those grades are inexpensive enough for trailer manufacturers to choose...
I have found that when you take anything aluminum to the truck wash and acid wash it it looks really good when you drive away but a day or two later it begins to develop a crusty haze. Then try and get that cleaned up. 😒 I would never let them wash the aluminum parts of my truck with acid.
Tim, one thing to consider when buying a "car trailer" to haul tractors or other equipment, is floor construction. When I was shopping for an aluminum trailer like this, I had 3 manufacturers tell me that their floors were not meant for the type of load that I wanted to haul. They told me that my compact tractor ( 3700 lbs ) with filled tires and weights was too much weight in a small area on the floor and to look at their equipment duty trailers. By talking to the manufacturers , I was able to avoid some common mistakes that people make, and purchase the right trailer the first time. Some of the dealers that I talked to were only interested in selling what they had on hand and never said anything about my intended use, so I would recommend calling the trailer manufacturer if you have any questions on which model would suit your needs.
Good Comment, I remember Messicks Equipment posted up a video of a skid loader theft, the thieves loaded it into an unsuitable box trailer which they had also stolen. Your comment is a reminder that just because a trailer is physically big enough it certainly doesn't mean it can handle the overall weight or weight distribution of a specific load.
I ordered my enclosed trailer above with extra crossmembers under the floor. This was after one manufacturer said their enclosed trailer was not good for my X738, maybe 1500 Lbs. loaded.
Put this trailer is listed as an Equipment or car trailer on the company web site and using 2x6 decking qualitysteel-aluminum.com/equipment-haulers
That is a nice light weight car hauler. I bought a steel 18 foot car hauler to tow my tractor. If I had it to do over, I would buy a dump trailer for Supreme versatility.
Nice to see another Truck and Trailer Tuesday on Tractor Time With Tim!
IF you have a truck big enough to pull it safely.
Edit: A relative has a 1-ton dump truck and a utility trailer for the small tractor. That combination works well.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD true, and i do have a sufficient truck, but I guess the dump trailer is the antithesis of this video - a light weight option for those with a smaller tow vehicle.
I don’t know who doesn’t like this video they just need to leave the site this is the awesome site and I appreciate y’all doing the videos
Good topic Tim (and team), you're definitely good at finding subjects that will interest your audience. I have both an aluminum trailer and a steel trailer, and both have their place.
Aluminum:
-Won't rust apart in the ~5 months of salted roads in my area of New England - just keep galvanic corrosion in mind (use stainless for d-rings, hardware, etc.)
-Lighter (my 2990-rated 4.5x10 aluminum trailer weighs 400lbs empty, or 650 with spare, jack, and solid 32" wooden sides)-500-600lbs less than comparable steel trailers
-Lighter=more payload: without the sides I can easily haul 2500lbs
-Did I mention it'll look great in 25 years? A well-maintained steel trailer in my area will last 10-15 years before requiring significant work to repair rust...less if driven in salt often, more if parked for half the year
Steel:
-Cheaper (aluminum is roughly +25% compared to a quality steel trailer...not a huge difference)
-More likely to bend instead of crack when used hard
-More easily welded (D-rings, modifications, repairs)
-More common and more easily built, so more options available
In Europe I see a lot of galvanized steel trailers (and more dual-axle trailers pulled by small vehicles). Galvanized isn't too common in North America outside of boat trailers, but does seem to be getting more popular in Northern New England.
One reason for the removable fenders is the ability to load a car and be able to open the door to exit the vehicle.
1025R TLB I believe is right around 2880lbs. That is according to what I came up with on my 2015 model. More than enough capacity. Looks good!
I've been running a 7K 16+2 landscape style trailer with a heavy duty ramp for 3 year's now! Weights around 2,200 lbs. The ramp has built-in feet verses the jacks plus I mounted a 6' truck chest to the front for all my storage. Works out perfect for what I need. Plus I haul my JD multiple times a week in different configurations. The key is to get something that works for you
Nice to see T&TT back. I liked those segments, and missed them.
Don’t forget to apply Thompson clear deck seal. Once a year their about. It’s gonna take more than one application. Wood if dry will soak 🛁 it in like a sponge. As that dries apply next coat. It saves the wood decking from rotting. Even if your trailer is stored under a shed wet tires mud, hose off. Make sure in the off season get some tire covers. Uv from the sun will rot the sun tires causing dry rot. Be sure to clean your tires and apply uv protection. Tire pressure must be correct to. Lube the bearings. Just my tip.
Thanks for the tips!
I agree with all the commenters welcoming return of TTT. I also second the one commenter's request for a video on enclosed trailers. Being short of storage space, I think the enclosed trailer may double-duty as equipment garage for many of us viewers.
Only issue with an enclosed trailer puling double duty as a garage you will find it often super full and no good place to store the stuff when you need the trailer. My sister borrowed my enclosed trailer and has had it for almost 3 years now as a garage. She has no place to unload it and store the stuff so I can actually use it as a trailer so essentially its a useless trailer and a easily stolen storage shed
@@mesanders1113 I was thinking of only using it to garage compact tractor and whichever attachments comfortably fit. I hear what you're saying about the danger of it filling up with other "junk." The issue of it being stolen together with all its contents does worry me. Any suggested solutions?
Totally agree. I have a 14 ft aluminum trailer that is 600 lbs, single axle with brakes. It can take about 2800 lbs to be under a max 3500. Tow it with my SUV which maxes out at 3500 lbs. That gives me enough for the BX23S - just - but is a cost effective option. Cheers.
The 18' steel trailer that we haul our 3046R with is only 2200 pounds. But it's right on the edge of being over loaded.
My brother towed his 24 foot travel trailer all over with a smaller gmc suv. It did have the larger engine, and towing package that gave it more towing capacity. It did have lots of other issues that I figured developed because of the extreme usage in pulling the travel trailer thousands of miles. That is a very nice trailer. He could add more of the d-rings very easily.
I really like the trailer Tuesday’s. Very informative and gives me items to think about. Thanks!
One thing I like about steel is I can weld my own modifications/repairs. I never learned how to weld aluminum.
Gotta tell the finance committee that you need a TIG welder and some material to learn on. 🙃
I have an eighteen foot steel car hauler rated for 9990 GVW and the title says its scale weight is 2350. I think you might have over estimated a 7000 GVW steel trailer's weight a little. I verifies the weigh at a roadside scale.
One thing I would encourage anyone to consider is not necessarily what you want to haul now, but consider also what you might want to haul later. I went with as much trailer as I could haul and still be under the commercial weight rating of #10,000. Above that weight in this state there is a grey area regarding scales and CDLs etc.
An Acadia can be rated at up to 5200 lbs, but I wouldn't come close to that lol.
I had an S10 years ago, got rid of it for a small car that doubled my mpgs. Bought a small 6x10 trailer and can tow it behind my wife's Rav4. I don't need to take my tractor anywhere, so it's fine for me! Great for hauling household stuff, dirt, mulch, gravel, etc.
My brother and I have the trainer with the aluminum floor on it and we love it
Mine is the same size but steal. Also it has spring loaded ramps on the back all the way across. Did it that way since Im getting older and dont want to mess with lifting them and moving them from under the trailer. Also, I dont have to worry about tipping the tractor. Buddy of mine had one ramp break as he was unloading his tractor due to bad welds.
Not a detail talked about, but it also looks like that trailer has spring axles instead of the torsion axles most aluminum trailers come with. I know torsion axles have a smoother ride, but I prefer the rebuildability of spring suspensions.
It did look like spring axles.
I wanted to focus on the lightweight aluminum.
Dual torsion axles aren't always a great idea, especially if they'll be loaded near limit (they can't share load like a slipper or equalizer spring dual setup), so you don't see them too often.
@@TractorTimewithTim It does have spring axles. Although choice between spring or torsion bar wasn't one of my concerns. I was more concerned with the lighter weight aluminum frame which would maximize how much I could carry. 18 foot including dovetail was a must-have to make loading and unloading easier for a 1025R and attachments without being too long for my comfort level. Rub rails were a "want' that I was able to attain and a toolbox was must have to keep tie down straps and trailer together.
To me, spring axles or torsion axles don't matter as much as the GVW. If a trailer is used correctly and within its limits either suspension is fine. I'm more concerned with the lighter weight aluminum frame and the 7000 GVW which would maximize how much I could carry because not only do you have to stay within the trailer GVW you have to stay with the tow vehicles limits.
Nice trailer and a good review.
Tim, you were talking about need for more D rings, they make a D ring that goes into the stake pocket on the side. I have not found them at a 3rd party accessories retailer, but the dealer where I bought my PJ trailer can get them. I need to get 4 for my self to help with tying down my Honda Pioneer. That is a nice looking trailer. But I don't thing my Oliver will fit on it.
Those stake pocket D rings are the best ive been using them for 5 years now I need to add more stake pockets though.
I've got those Stake Pocket D rings on a short want list. :)
Stake pocket d rings are awesome. Ebay has them but I ended up just fabbing my own up. If you can do a little welding, they're very simple to make
My enclosed trailer weight is 2550 lbs. I can haul my X738 or 2025R but tying down is a pain. Using the back jacks allows me to load not connected to a tow vehicle (probably not recommended). I no longer need this trailer and I have been looking for an all aluminum car hauler similar to what you showed here.
I bought an Aluma 20' trailer and I opted for the 5200# axles to get the GVW yo 9900 pounds. I have a JD2038R and putting the tractor with loader, tiller, and stump grinder on it put me right at 7000# GVW. I wanted some margin so I got the larger axles increasing the GVW.
Also, the fenders come off so when you load a car on it you can open the door.
If you look at Diamond C trailers with their engineered beam construction, they are usually close to the weight of an aluminum trailer but with the strength of steel.
That's a good looking trailer. The only thing I don't like about a dovetail trailer is you have to be careful with ground clearance. The back end drags if you get on some uneven ground. But that's a nice trailer.
I've been wanting to get a decent trailer, that could haul motorcars and other things. Looks like a good option.
Fuel saving trailer.!!! NICE.!!!
Well done, informative video once again Tim.
Not sure if you are seeking video ideas, but I am researching for a future purchase of a enclosed trailer.
The reason to go open vs enclosed is all about the intended application, isn’t it?
With me already owning one trailer for my boat, my goal is to buy one and only one more trailer. Use would be hauling a sub-compact tractor and some implements, on separate trips a side-by-side, and hauling stuff including helping family and friends move. Occasionally fireplace wood hauling, but I’d line the walls and floor with something to protect it.
The “stuff” lauding, such as helping people move, I believe would be the most frequent trailer typical use. I also like capability of using the enclosed trailer space for short term stuff storage with the stuff protected from the environment.
To balance needs, space, and cost, I’m thinking a 16’ long + 18” Vee x 7’ wide x 6 1/2’ , twin 3,500 lb axels, steel, hopefully around $5,000 for new. Looking through Facebook marketplace, I’m seeing better prices on new then used. If a used trailer is well off the new cost, the pictures show a trailer unfit for use, which I am finding surprising.
Thoughts?
Trailers retain value very well. I think buying new is usually best because you can get EXACTLY what you need. Including specifying options, etc.
@@TractorTimewithTim wow, you just verified what I am seeing. If used cost is so close to new, I may as well get exactly what I want and get new. This is incredibly opposite of, for example, a camper who’s value drops off a cliff as you drive off the dealers lot.
@@DougAlesUSA we spent a year looking at used before we bought this trailer. Any good deal on used would get bought up right away and the rest we found were not worth (in my opinion) the price being asked compared to just buying a new trailer.
@@wingersww thank you. And thank you for making this video with Tim.
@@DougAlesUSA It was my pleasure getting to meet and work with Tim and Christie
💥 That is a beautiful trailer! I sure like the removable fenders. Left me wondering if it’s legal to haul without fenders.
*Keep on tractoring!*
I have a bad case of trailer envy ! It’s a really nice piece of kit. I live in south of France, have not seen one as nice as this down here.
That is a very nice trailer. It is looking great.
Time, a Big Tex spec'd out identically in steel is 2,250# without rub rails, I am going with a PJ T5 for a whole slew of reasons.
He was just guessing at the weight. My 16’ aluminum was 1100lbs.
@@TractorTimewithTim I also was guessing at 1500 for this trailer it could be a little heavier. It's a 7K label states max load capacity of 5080 pounds.
I still suspect 1500 lbs or even less.
They might not what you carrying a full 7000lb gvw.
I just sold my 20 ft aluminum car hauler. waiting on 28 ft gooseneck, can not haul any thing more than kubota L6060 w/loader and one attachment.. needed more room for various implements.
One thing I haven’t really seen much but on a utility trailer I would love a big rock in the front. Old race trailer is used to be like that and a big rack on front where you can put eight tires up there. Having a rack to throw your handtools on and you can put your loader grappler up on there and a couple other thin implements or maybe even carry your mower deck on one of the shelves just in case you need that camera you could just carry a couple extra implements with you and some handtools and just get them up and out of the way with the weight forward and still have room for your backhoe and tractor without having to add 4 more feet to your trailer.
My 2008 GMC Acadia with the tow package was rated for 4500#.
Tim I believe they sell the 2" straps that self retract now.
I wish there was an objective way to determine load balance. My 'expert" said just center the tractor on the trailer. That resulted in a significant trailer whip event (luckily I remembered to NOT brake). So much fun.
You want to put some weight on the tongue. Make sure the loaded trailer is always tongue heavy. ...but not overly so. I hope that makes sense.
The 'whipping' is very dangerous, and is caused by the trailer be 'back heavy', removing weight from the rear of the towing vehicle.
@@TractorTimewithTim Understand. One issue is its difficult to figure out the tractor weight distribution with various attachments. I ended up putting the FEL bucket up against the trailer's front wall.Still lucky that I watched the Uhaul trailer video to NOT brake. Otherwise the almost automatic response would be to brake.
Just drive tractor forward until towing vehicle begins to squat...you can use that as a visual indicator of the load placed on the tongue.
You can also buy a scale tongue which shows the weight being applied to the tongue if you are really concerned
Don’t forget also check lug nuts periodically.
Tim Dave gave me some good ideas my son and me are looking to punching a trailer I have 150 Ford 26 years old in perfect shape had it redone and have owned it from New 5 K is a lot buts cheaper than 60 K for a new truck thank you
God Bless All
PaK
Honestly my new 2019 F150 supercrew STX was $36,000 new and it has the 10spd auto and the 5.0 v8 it gets slightly over 20mpg has lots of creature comforts and can tow a bit over 9,000lbs with zero issues. Has a backup camera and everything. Also makes a decent family hauler for my wife and I with our daughter. A new truck was kinda a no brainer with as far as they come with technology like ABS brakes, back up camera, android auto, 100% integration of the trailer brakes, auto dimming headlights, advanced trac stability system. Its truly a nicely equipped cheaper truck. The 10spd auto has a gear for every situation and the 395hp v8 pulls like a champ. I was worried that it would not make a good truck motor as it loves to rev but it pulls my 30ft 8700lb RV trailer at a lower rpm than my 2010 gmc sierra 5.3 6spd auto does and gets better mileage.
That's a sweet set up Dave have a day love from TEXAS
Thanks Tina!
I always watch TTWT. This is off base a little from this video but I’ve never seen one with storage of the Backhoe on the 1025 R or the 2038R I think I may have figured out an easier way to store my new 2038R Backhoe just wondering about your thoughts.
I would love to hear your thoughts on the 2038r backhoe. I do not have a good solution.
Interested too. I've been waiting for grass to stop growing so I can remove my rear finish mower and reinstall the backhoe. It's currently hogging up a parking space in front of my workshop.
On the deere instructions on the back of the Backhoe it says to put dipper stick straight up and down with bucket teeth parallel to the ground. I found that this way hydraulic cylinders bleed off when you go back to hook it up later one week or two you can’t hook it up. So I open bucket all the way close the cylinder and lean dip or stick off center and it’s seems to hold up longer. I think I need to make a brace between dipstick and lift arm maybe for long storage periods. A work in progress.
@@TractorTimewithTim m
I think it’s definitely a good idea to use those jacks on the back of the trailer. Very important that the rear end of the tow vehicle doesn’t lift up lol
If his vehicle with out towing package it will tow 3000 and if it has with tow package it will tow 5000 . Make sure you have a trailer braking capability for safety. You suppose to back load and tow the 1025R .
I rent trailers, I also have a 1025R. The best trailer I have found for hauling it is Aluma Brand Trailers! All different sizes and set ups.
Good vid as always May have been better if it showed the tractor loaded on the trailer . Just saying . Your doing a great Job.
Don't know if this link to a Facebook pic will let you see it or not:
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I have an aluma trailer 7712H single axle, I wish I bought one bigger, but I bought it before I got my tractor, rated a 3K which is ok for just the tractor, but the loader puts me over....they are worth their wight in gold and save your back a thousand times over....
Tim
great topic and video. Can you tell me what the make of the trailer is. I am in the market now for a aluminum trailer to tow with my F150. This is better for moving around and lighter. thanks
I'm not sure.
Manufactured by: Quality Steel and Aluminum Products
They sell stake pocket D Rings on amazon .
Wonderful video as always Timmy
I don't know how you do it, but you seem to read my mind. I just started researching trailers for my 1025R. You're scary!
Nice trailer I like it
Tim when are we going to see the finish product of the new shelter logic garage you erected?
We’ll get there Roy. We arern’t completely finished yet. Lots of stuff going on here!
Totally understand. Always enjoy seeing what you have next.
YAAAYYYY, Truck and Trailer Tuesdays on Tractor Time with Tim is back! Nice looking trailer, but since watching your videos (and others) I think I want a dump trailer to haul my MF 1742M. I'm not sure my 1/2 ton Silverado truck can haul it though. Where do you start the decision making process, with the trailer, or the tow vehicle?
Nice video tim and kristie and a really nice trailer specially with the wood I like that 👌
What brand trailer is this? Thank you.
Manufactured by Quality Steel and Alluminum Products
Sold by T-C Trailers near Frankfort, IN
David Herrmann Thankyou!
Great vlog Tim 🚜🇺🇲 I really appreciate you sharing this information 🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
How important are trailer brakes when dealing with this size trailer? Lets say you are getting loading closer to the GVWR rating, I would think that additional braking force would come in handy.
The difference can be rear ending somebody or not.
Anything over 5K requires brakes! I have 2 trailer's and have found that they are a necessity for stopping in time. I've been cut off multiple times and without those brakes, the outcome would have been different.
This trailer has brakes on both axles.
Is there electric brakes on the trailer? What is the axles rating?
Towing anything like this with an Acadia/Traverse is a mistake!! Those were originally designed to tow 3000#, and when they decided to not bring the redesigned trailblazer to the US in 2009, they needed to fill that niche of a midsize that can tow, so after it was already designed, they decided to give it a 4000# tow rating. So really, it's only designed to tow 3000#, and those have big-time transmission and AWD issues even if you don't tow. Towing with a midsize is fine, like a triailblazer, grand cherokee, or a well optioned passport/Ridgeline, but that specific vehicle, the GM Lambda platform, is a problem with anything more than a couple dirt bikes or a quad on a trailer.
It's an incremental process. Like someone mentioned above about deciding whether to get a truck first or a trailer, I decided on the trailer so I could at least haul my tractor for short distances in order to help others out. Future plans will be be to replace the Acadia with a pickup truck that has higher towing capacity.
@@wingersww I'm just saying, those vehicles are not designed to tow more than 3k reliably. Safely, yes, because they have plenty of brakes and weight, but the chassis and power train wasn't designed for more than 3k. A 1025R with loader and attachment, you're probably at 5k behind it, just a wild guess.
While I wouldn't tow 5000 with one, I highly doubt GM would rate the tow rating higher than necessary for legal reasons. Is there evidence to support your statement?
@@valleytractorservices9310 a guy I've known from the trailblazer forums for about 13-14 years was a test engineer on the gmt360 platform and the lambda platform. I've heard the same thing from 2 other people who worked at GM Truck, as well. Other than on forums and stuff, it's not in an actual publication or anything that I've ever seen.
@@valleytractorservices9310 and as I said above, it's not that it's not safe (weight, length, brakes, etc), it's thst the power train wasn't designed for it. Basically, they figured it was cheaper to pay a little more warranty by stretching the limits of the transmission than it was to have a whole other platform that was stealing sales from the more profitable full-size SUVs.
Great subject Tim. Dave that’s a beautiful trailer. It looks like you have all the bells and whistles. Did you custom order the trailer and how long was the wait?
No, I bought it off the lot. The dealer had a good variety to look over and this is what I went with after comparing several brands from different local dealers. Some only could order what I wanted and the wait time was 8+ weeks.
I may have missed the comments for manufacturer and deck options. If so, can you re-state? It looks like a pretty good trailer for a half ton truck. Always good stuff on your channel......
We really weren’t trying to ‘sell’ the trailer. Look through the rest of the comments....I believe Dave has mentioned the manufacturer in reply to another such query.
I didn’t catch anything about the brakes. I assume they are electric but no battery box to apply the brakes for a runaway trailer?
Could have been hiding under the spare tire or the drivers side A frame.
We didn't cover it in the video, but it does have brakes on both axles and a battery to apply them.
Nice trailer 👍
I like seeing the trailer vids. & like that trailer (what brand trailer is it?). I'm thinking about an enclosed trailer to save the loading/unloading time & not need to keep the tractor/attachments inside plus can use the trailer to haul a car the couple times/year that I need. And then a dump bed insert w/salt spreader for the truck. The issue I see w/a dump trailer is once loaded, how do you haul the tractor?
Dump trailer: you haul the tractor to the job site, load the material, haul off the material, then return to the job site to pick up the tractor. Quite efficient, actually.
@@TractorTimewithTim Figured - Depends on where the job/home/disposal sites are in relation & then the space in the truck isn't really being utilized although I certainly wouldn't put a dump insert into a brand new truck like yours. Thx. for the insight - You obviously have the experience most of us don't. I'm just thinking it all through incl. what tractor to start out w/.
What brand was that trailer? It looked every bit as nice or nicer than a Featherlite but less expensive. I liked the ramp & rear stabilizer setup (I've had a steel car trailer before) as well as the rub rail & removable fenders (at least driver's side - Don't usually see them on the pass. side).
Thx. for all your help & great vids. I really learn a lot from them. BTW, on the way to my shop, I pass an old/abandoned Ventrac Dealer - Until watching your vids I never knew what Ventrac was. I'll have to stop and take a pic of the old sign that's still on the building and send it to you.
Wonder how they keep the treated wood from reacting with the aluminum. Or maybe it’s not treated wood ?
Nice Trailer
Where did you buy the trailer?
Nice trailer. My truck is about wore out. This may be my next option. 65000.00 on a truck is not a option.
I've been looking at a similar trailer (10k#, though...), but it has the flip up ramps. With the flip up ramps, you don't really need the stabilizers in the rear, right?
Wouldn't that depend on whether the flip up ramps have a stabilizer framework built on the bottom of them or not?
@@wingersww The one I'm looking at has a 'foot' near the hinge of the ramp that looks like it would support that end of the trailer when weight would be put on it. I was just wondering if there was any reason to also have the drop-down stabilizers with this config?
@@lmychajluk there might other reasons but I believe the main reason for them is to support a heavier load that you would be putting on the trailer. My 1025r isn’t heavy enough even with attachments to worry about using them. But if I had fluid in the tires, wheel weights, a larger tractor, etc. I would probably be using them when loading and unloading.
What trailer where does this trailer come from? I live in South Alabama and have been looking for an aluminum trailer and haven't really found anything to compare to this.
Manufactured by Quality Steel and Alluminum Products
Sold by T-C Trailers near Frankfort, IN
Very nice trailer, who is the manufacture?
Manufactured by Quality Steel and Alluminum Products
Sold by T-C Trailers near Frankfort, IN
You should have shown the tags on the trailer that shows empty weight and max GTW.. IMHO, unless he's loading on nothing heavier than a bare JD 1025 he shouldn't be towing that with the current vehicle... Again, JMHO..
no don't acid wash that makes it look old use shark hide i work at a local garbage pick up place here in Lewiston new york. they had every truck known from 18 wheel3ers to rear packers. for the different holiday parades we as the body shop would get the task of cleaning them up. we always used castle classic wheels acid wash. than one day a salesman brought a thing of shark hide by what a difference. it works the best on new clean aluminum o if not clean metal you need to clean before applying shark hide n
Very interesting!
How did your Toyota Tacoma handle your trailer? That's what I have.
Nice trailer!
im shopping for ramps, about what weight rating do i need for ramps on a 1025r. would 2000lb rating work?
I don’t think so.
Hi Tim, I have a 1025R with attachments and I'm looking for a trailer, thank you for reviewing this model. It looks like a great trailer, what brand is it? I live in MI so I imagine I can find a dealer for this trailer in my area. Thank you for you and your videos. Go Green!
Dave mentioned the brand in other comments.
Thanks Tim, I found the brand name and was able to find a dealer close bye in MI. I will be looking for a new trailer in the spring and will be looking at this model. I love that it's Aluminum.
If I have a trailer manufacturer and can buy directly from them, is it a better financial decision compared to a buying from a dealer?
Only if you get exactly what you want at a price which is better than through the dealer.
There is no ‘service’ of sorts necessary from a trailer dealer, so not much advantage there.
I have a 18ft 7k steel deck car hauler, weighs 2300 lbs. I don’t know of any 7-10k steel trailer that weighs 3k lbs...I think you exaggerated a bit there. You can save yourself a few hundred lbs with an aluminum trailer, but they sure are expensive!
When you go gooseneck, then you're getting into that kinda weight. I had a Lamar 20 ft gooseneck equipment trailer steel floor with 7k axles and weighed 3800 lbs.
My 16’ steel trailer is 2200 lbs. it’s rated for 7k (trailer + 4800)
Max load capacity for this one is 5080 lb. I didn't find info on the exact weight of the trailer though.
@@wingersww that’s closer then I expected for payload. I did have to look out for heavy trailers when I was shopping, I have a truck and didn’t want to tow a sledge when I only needed 3000-3500 capacity. I like my built in ramps 99% of the time, but not today when they were sucking wind and the guy in the slow lane kept speed matching from 70-80 repeatedly, and 67 when I was behind them. It sounds like road rage but it was a q-tip that got on the highway well ahead of me and I changed lanes a couple hundred feet back so it’s not like I tailgated.........anyway I’m glad you like your trailer, that really is the only thing that matters.
What’s the specifics of the trailer? Where did he get it? Price?
We were specifically trying to avoid ‘selling’ you the trailer. He bought it at TC Trailers in Frankfort IN. Somewhere around $5000 I think.
@@TractorTimewithTim it’s a great looking trailer.
TC is a good trailer dealer , corner of 29(421) and 28.
dooman700 They have a very large inventory.
@@Alanschmalzried yes I have purchased a couple from them. They are about 30 minutes from me.
What is the brand of the trailer?
Is was manufactured by: Quality Steel and Aluminum Products. I purchased at a local trailer dealer near Frankfort, IN
@@wingersww Thank you!
Random question. Have you ever reviewed Branson or LS Tractors?
I have shown LS a time or two. Search ‘Philip’ on our channel.
Have not spent any time with Branson.
@@TractorTimewithTim I will check it out. Thank you. Branson seems to be like a mix between Massey and maybe John Deere to me. I just haven't went down to Georgia to check them out.
Does this trailer have its own brakes🤔
yes on both axles.
I live in sullivan county Indiana can you recommend a dealership to find this trailor?
TC Trailers - Michigantown, IN.
They said that trailer came from Clinton County. TC trailers 421/28 Frankfort
@@doomman700 thanks! I know Clinton indiana but I don't know Clinton county.
@@roybaughman306 couple hours north of you. 421 is Michigan road out of Indy’s north side. 28 will meet 65 just south of Lafayette
www.tc-trailers.com
@@doomman700 thanks
I believe a 3/4 ton truck.
Great video Tim. When I bought my Johnny the first thing I did was ditch my lightweight trailer to give home the ride he deserves. I landed on a trailer made by Rice which I bought from Kates in Illinois (just a few hours west of you I think - www.kateskars.com). The trailers are made with real attention to detail. I bought the 20+2 with ramps and although a bit heavy, I rides well behind my Dodge 3500. I like that I can haul Johnny and my side by side at the same time. It is a 16K with the optional running gear so can easily carry most equipment. The price point of these trailers can’t be beat either which was about $4500 for mine. Thanks again for the great videos and hope your health is still good.
My youngest brother works at Kate's kars
16k. Hope you have a CDL! Make sure your GVWR is under 26k!
That’s not a problem in KY with farm tags. I can haul up to 30K.
Kates is awesome. They do everything right and what a selection. Well worth the drive from where I live.
Just pointed out to a friend the other day, now that owning a tractor has caused me to care about things like towing capacity, I’m starting to view the half-ton pickup category as basically, a harder-to-park, midsize truck with more leg-room. LOL
Been on the fence about getting a trailer but not sure I can justify it. I’ve only had four instances in the past two years in which I *really* needed one, and those were ‘laying up treasure in heaven’ type jobs. For those of us who wouldn’t put many miles on a trailer, this option makes more sense than upgrading to a bigger truck that will always be less fuel efficient, even when not towing.
Lol. The age old aluminum versus steel debate. 😂😂 I like aluminum but it’s the precision version. It’s great it’s rust proof it’ll get the job done and it’s much more lighter and efficient, but once you bend it you got a throw it away and buy another one pretty much or have it completely chopped up and repaired because aluminum doesn’t do bending very well and old steel trailer been until it breaks and then you just throw some straps on it and squeeze it straight with a couple of straps of steel on the crack and you’re good to go for another 25 years years. I like aluminum for small trailers but I don’t know that I would get one Porten equipment trailer for ATVs or lawn tractor sure but I think if I’m gonna make a large investment I’m gonna go with steel, it’s heavier but as long as you hit it with some touch up paint every three or four years it’s going to be around 20 ears even if you overload it and bend it a little and if it bends and breaks you just twist it back weld it back up maybe throw a couple of gussets on there and some spray paint and you’re good for another 20 years. I had a friend spend $6000 on a small aluminum trailer and he came out in the parking lot and somebody backed into it and bent it, trying to repair it was a nightmare and it was still never straight again and for an equipment trailer I don’t want to be careful Farris Holly classic cars or something sure but for equipment trailer moving skid steer‘s and stuff like that then I wanna big D flea steel trailer and if you’re out on a job in Ben’s oh well it’s still going to get home aluminum doesn’t do that. When you bend it even if it’s not cracked that metal so weak at that point it’s just a matter of time before it cracks and it’s just not gonna be safe to toe anymore. I also don’t like dovetails under equipment trailers, they’re great for cars but I feel horrible tearing up parking lots all the time leaving gouges in the road and who knows what I’ve done to the bottom of the trailer at that point and especiallyIf I’m gonna be dragging it I want a big hunk of steel there because aluminum drains down way easier as well. Now if I was getting an ATV trailer and could afford it I would love the aluminum being able to hook it up to the hitch without even having to back the car up because I can pull it with my hands caring that light load it’s gonna be a nice easy ride and you’re not putting enough weight on it to really mess it up. It’s just kind of one of those situations where it depends on what’s the right tool for the right job. If he’s just taking his tractor from one place to the other every now and again it is staying on relatively flat ground then that’s perfect if he’s putting a big track loader or something on there every day that things not gonna last much more than a year if he’s lucky going in and out of huge ruts in construction sites and going over rocks with all that weight on it. That’s why it’s important to watch shows like this and do your research before you put the money into something so you really know what you need and what you’re getting is going to work for what you need to do. For me I think this aluminum trailer would be the best fit, I’m not doing skid steer’s or any of that stuff anymore timer for that I’d have to have steel but for a lot of people this will be a much better option with almost no maintenance and you get rid of the rust problems. For an aluminum trailer that looks great. :)
My heavy built diamond c 22ft equipment hualer weighs 2,000lbs and has 5200lb axles. Aluminum evidently did not save much weight
its not truck and trailer Tuesday without Tropper Hoover
Guess we should do another episode or two with him.
@@TractorTimewithTim he is friends with some other youtubers. you should see him on with logger wade or lets dig 18 when the uniform comes off the fun comes out
I‘be been to his house. :-)
Where do I find a sexy trailer like that? And can it be had under 10k?
This one came from a dealer near Frankfort, IN and was right around the $5k mark.
Not much of a savings with aluminum my 20ft steel tilt 5200lb axles is only 2500lbs
Hmm...I suggest you weigh it. Not sure I would be comfortable with a 20’. 10k trailer weighing only 2500 lbs!!!
@@TractorTimewithTim
16′2400 lbs
18′2500 lbs
20′2600 lbs
Off the pj website for th tilt.
For the lighter car hauler pj
16′1800 lbs
20′2000 lbs
I looked at a aluminum trailer myself and I didn't see the savings vs cost.
What a beautiful trailer. I truly love many of the attributes of this trailer. Weight being my number one favorite. Let us remember that aluminum corrodes, just not in the rust color in which steel will. Still have to keep it clean and maintain the decking boards. Very nice trailer and I certainly appreciate sharing.
I see postings from so many folks with aluminum trailers that have issues with cracking in various places.
It's got a good home in the barn which will minimize corrosion of the frame and breakdown of the wood. But each can be dealt with when needed.
@@wingersww The wood lasts longer than you think. My landscape trailer sits out in the PA weather 24x7 and has a wooden plank flooring. Each summer I clean the deck with a pressure washer and treat it with Thompson's Weather Seal. The trailer is going on 10 years old and the floor still looks like new.
@@eosjoe565 I'm hoping not to be one of those...
@@eosjoe565 I plan similar upkeep for the floor on this one. But as long as I have space in the barn, keeping it out of the elements will extend it's life even more. I like keeping my new stuff looking new as long as possible.
Not know it’s back there with that crap suv my butt. Otherwise nice trailer. Can clearly afford a better set up
And working on it. Have to clear it with the finance committee (and live with her too).
Aluminum trailer are nice but they do not hold up in the long run when used on a daily basis.
How so?
@@SimonTekConley Aluminum has No tolerance for flexing. heavy loads on a daily basis the weld become the weak point !
@@inthewoods5640 ahh. Didn't think about that. So what's a good light weight trailer for every other weekend use?
@@SimonTekConley I would say an aluminum is fine for every other weekend use. I have a little 12footer aluminum single axle and it’s great for quick an easy tasks. It’s light enough I can push it through my yard by myself to where I store it behind my garage.
But I agree that I wouldn’t want to use one for everyday use, I don’t think it would survive as well as a steel.
Well, one might need to know what grade aluminum is used before concluding it has "no flex". They make semi trailer flat decks to settle less more flat under load. Just like steel, aluminum has grades for flex and strength. The right choice gives the needed strength and flex. Now whether or not those grades are inexpensive enough for trailer manufacturers to choose...
Aluminum trailer without aluminum wheels. Real shame.
Might fix that one day. The shiny aluminum looks nice and the same in wheels would really set it off!
I have found that when you take anything aluminum to the truck wash and acid wash it it looks really good when you drive away but a day or two later it begins to develop a crusty haze. Then try and get that cleaned up. 😒 I would never let them wash the aluminum parts of my truck with acid.