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Ohhh my goodness! I have a Kubota MX5000 and one of my hydraulic connections was loose and leaking, so I tightened it. Instantly it fixed the leak, but then my bucket wouldn't curl, but would go up and down. I thought something broke inside of my control box. I was so frustrated thinking that maybe the pressure broke something in the controller. Watch your video and you said 90% of the time the snap connection is loose and not connected. I kid you not, THAT WAS THE PROBLEM! I must have knocked it loose when I was tightening the hose connection with my wrench. I didn't notice that it was snapped off. Thanks Tim and Ken!
Thanks Tim for the advise! My loader would only go up half way so I came in and RUclipsd you and found the problem was a loose line at the coupler. You did it again. Thanks a lot.
I've always cleaned off/out both male & female coupler connections before re-connecting them back together & ive never had any leaks drip on the floor. . . that I can recall. . .!!! On the spring loaded "poppets" ball, in these connections, after I have cycled the loader control joystick valve to relieve the pressure, for the female side, ive gently used a small nut driver to push in the poppet ball to relieve the pressure & on the male side, ive used a rag to cover the end as mentioned & used my gloved fingers to push that poppet in. Thankya Tim & Ken for sharing this awesome video!
WOW!... GREAT video guys!...It answered so many of my questions and connected the "dots" of information I've read & seen on the web over the past 5 years. This video is getting bookmarked! The info on all the important specs for the O ring was so helpful Maybe you could talk about backhoe storage & the leak down of the stabilizer legs while storedThanks!
Tim and Ken thanks for some great tips. Personal experience, the hydraulic pressure relief tool is a super solution for pressure relief. And, I thought I was the only one who can hardly tell the hydraulic level on the dipstick….the dye is a clever solution. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience. Blessings.
Tim and Ken I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Recently I experienced what seemed like a major leak on one of my tractors. Your advice not to panic and a little leak seems like a lot was spot on. After checking my connections, I found that an O-ring and connector was bad. Your video helped me diagnose the problem and get up and running again. Never knew John Deere made a red dye for the hydraulic fluid. It definitely makes checking the sight glass for fluid easy and confirms that the leak has been repaired. Thanks again and keep up the great videos!
Great video. One thing I didn’t hear mentioned in the discussion of O-rings is how heat builds up during use, especially around couplings and fittings, which will deteriorate the rings over time. Heat does as much damage as re-coupling.
Great, great video! Thanks so very much for your very informative video on hydraulic problems! You addressed exactly the problem I was having with my front loader. I followed Ken’s clear instructions and used wd40 to clean my hydraulic connectors before and after disconnecting them.From now on that will be my primary use for WD40. After cleaning and reattaching the connectors my bucket performed flawlessly! I greatly appreciate what you guys do and the ways in which you gently show where your true priorities are!
Learned something from the video about using WD-40. Thank you. Seeing fluid level on the dip stick was mentioned, something I learned a long time ago was to take a 3 cornered file and put a small notch in the side of the dip stick at the full level and anywhere else, such as 1/2 or 1/4 or so, makes it a lot easier to tell where the level is.
My goodness what great timing. I had the exact scenario 2 days ago with my grapple. I ended up having to loosen the line and it dumped a tablespoon of oil to relieve pressure. When I parked it it was about 50°, and 90° when I was trying to hook it up.
Thanks gents for sharing the knowledge about the hydrologic connections. Very informative. I just signed up for Tractor Universe. I can't wait to see what this new addition offers.
Yep done that, couplers can be a problem even on a Kioti! And my John Deere. Another way is to take your time and make sure no pressure is on your attachment by level and then before you disconnecting it Shut the tractor off, move your controls around with the engine off and key on to relief pressure in your 3 rd.function. Great job Tim and Ken. Cheers from ID.
Thank You for another great video, Tim! I have been dealing with a chronic issue ever since the first time that I removed and then re-installed the FEL on my 2008 John Deere 2305 TLB. From what i saw in this video, I suspect that I need to clean the female quick-disconnects on the tractor with WD-40. Hopefully that will alleviate the issue... God Bless You and your family!
You guys were spot on about the loader valve connections! Thanks so much!! Problem fixed without hauling it to the dealer for A fix! Save me several hundred there! Looking fo that waite tool now for 1/2" coupling on my JD! Seems to be out of stock!
Hi Tim and Kenny, Good to see you both and giving some good tips on how to solve some of the hydraulic issues that come up from time to time. Kenny, what did you thing about the Ventrac? LOL.
They are hydraulics, they have to leak to work properly! Although very very minimal leakage. Every time a cylinder runs in or out there are minute quantities of oils on the cylinder rods. Our job as owners is to keep the oil loss to an minimal acceptable level. Besides small amounts of oil works great as a rust preventative! Great content Tim!
Master Tim, you know this already I am sure but for others out there some third function valves allow you to manually relieve pressure at the valve without having to power the valve up and do so with the switch. I do this all the time with my W.R. Long third function valve. There are two indents at the top and bottom of the valve where you push them in with a screwdriver to relieve pressure. 🙂
Jhon deere dose not make there own fittings. I found out that they are made by a company called Parker Hannifin. They make the parts and hoses and fittings for john deere and you can get the tool and fittings from them and they make the parts of more than john deere. They are pretty much at cost to.
Great video! I learned that a tool can be purchased to relieve the pressure in attachment's side of hydraulic lines. I've got flat face couplers on my Kubota. What's the best way to determine the correct size flat face coupler so I can purchase the right tool from Ken? Thanks you you both, Tim and Ken!
Tim! It was just what you guys said. I was dragging my field, and a few branches we're getting beneath the tractor, and uncoupled one my lines. I cleaned the area of mud and debris, and disconnected all four couplings to see which one was loose. When I got to the last one, it just fell off from being disconnected already. I cleaned all of them with Wd40, and coupled them back, and wallah! 🕺🏽 But on another note, I was disappointed with my John Deere service department: when I called and explained the problem, the mechanic said he never heard of such a problem, and I should bring it in. Thanks to you and your friend, I was able to remedy the problem myself, and very quickly. Thank a million!
I had a stick pop up and remove a coupler on the loader. I could not lower the loader and my super human strength failed me and I could not get the coupler on 🥺. I put a log under the bucket tipped down until I could relieve the pressure on the loader arm. Only then could I connect the coupler 😊
You guys Rock! John Deere 2720 loader would only lift half way. ThIs just occurred during a heavy brushing session. Cleaned loader quick connects thoroughly and BINGO! Cheers and Thank You! Best Regards
RUclips for the win again. Had a stick break both my forward and reverse pedals yesterday. Got that fixed or at least semi-fixed and now my bucket wouldn't dump. Look down. I guess when the pedals got demolished they pulled one of the quick connectors apart
I really do believe you are a very unique family God bless you I really do believe you are a very unique family God bless you and your family have a good summer Thank you again from the south eastern Minnesota
Great video Tim. Ken is very informative of tractor mechanics as you are. Martha is looking good and healthy. How is Katriel doing? Is she still overseas? Do you think she'll pop home with her flip flops to help you out? BTW I don't mean any disrespect about flip flops. I wear them all summer.
Story time...check your o rings, the struggle is real! I just recently did the 200 hour hydraulic service on my 2018 1025R, and I didn’t check the o ring on the aluminum “fitting” that holds the mesh filter with the magnet inside the reservoir. The outer o ring that seals between the fitting and the reservoir orifice was compressed (but not visibly damaged...I checked after the fact😕) so it hemorrhaged oil about 15 minutes after I thought I was done. I had to buy a new oil drain container as to not contaminate the $120 worth of hygard low viscosity hydraulic oil (stuff’s expensive here in Canada)...all because I didn’t replace a 40 cent o ring!
Hey Tim and Christy, did you see you got a thank you article in the latest issue of "The Seeing Eye Guide" magazine. How awesome that the TTWT community donated over $5,000, including your generous match.
I just went to Ken's site and he no longer deals with the 'Waite' tools to decompress hydraulic lines. Would love to see another video of some existing and available tools to decompress lines that have built up pressure.?. Thanks, Tim!
great content!! Wondering, can you explain how to bleed a hydraulic system? also any input on running larger I.D hoses for faster controls? I have a old hydrostatic JD400 and having issues with the system filling with air and bleeding it out
@@TractorTimewithTim I have a old 1975 JohnDeere400 hydrostatic. Learning a lot but this system is all new to me. Fluid always seems to over flow from the breather and I know when I drop the fluid to change it, it’s all airy and full of bubbles. Still need to pressure test the system and can only think it must have a leak in the system and pulling air in not sure how it’s pushing fluid from the breather though.
@@TractorTimewithTim not a problem at all. You did help with making sure to set attachments down and 3pt down before checking the levels. I will do that. Like I said grateful for your content and will continue to follow
I had this pressure problem with my grapple. Once I figured out what was going on, I was able to loosen one of the hose connections on the grapple with a wrench to relieve the pressure. I never take my loader off and the grapple is the first implement I have that has hydraulics... That little pressure relief tool would have been handy!
What is the proper way to get air out of the loader hydraulic system? My dump and curl function for my 2305 seems to have air in it. Back story, last year the loader had one line that the male fitting was leaking oil when unhooked from the tractor. I didn’t bother to see were that line went just replaced the fitting. Now a lot of the time when I try to back drag with the bucket it will not hold its position. As soon as I start backing up and the bucket makes contact with something, it will curl back 5”-6” before starting to hold position. If I put the bucket on the surface I am back dragging and then dump the bucket down to the position I want to back drag it will stay put.
The system purges air automatically, no need for you to try to do it. Also read the sticky thread about "REGEN" in the hydraulics forum on GTT, that will help explain it too.
@@TractorTimewithTim the bucket did not flop around before the loss of fluid and the fitting change. The loaders and tractor front end loaders that I use to run growing up on the farm did not move very much, less than an 1.5”. This thing is floppy most of the time trying to back drag up to 6”. It definitely not the same as before.
Thank you Tim. I fix my tractor thank you very much. That was a problem. A loose hydraulihose. By the way enjoy your videos great job keep up the good work
I just had to replace one of the male couplers last week @ 125 hrs. I was able to find a set of 4 from your friends at Summit Hydraulics for just under $30: John Deere AW32184 Replacement Male Hydraulic Quick Coupler Plug (SKU#AW32184). Threaded on like the OEM.
Great Vid Tim and Ken, Having recently installed a FEL after market on my tractor. I found that when lifting a substantial load which the FEL has no problem lifting, the steering (power) seems to lock up. My question, the reason I found this vid is that, is there a separate pump to feed the steering cylinder or is this fed from the main hydraulic system and, uses some way the steering wheel linkage to control that steering cylinder? The fact that I can lift the load indicates to me that the system pressure may be ok but, I am having a flow issue . Your thoughts are appreciated. I have a CT235 Bobcat with a factory installed joystick/valve. Loader and tractor work fine when lifting lighter loads. Just not quite sure how the steering function works Curious to know if any buddy in this community has run into a similar situation. Thanks in advance
The John Deere hydraulic oil dye is P/N MT3668, and cost me $11.17 as a non-stocked part at my local dealership. Note: The first time you buy this, and open the small glass jar with the Teflon tape around the threads and look down in it, you are going to think that you have been sent a faulty jar of this dye, maybe it evaporated, or have been ripped off. When in fact, that is not the case. The dye only fills up the jar about one eighth of its depth, maybe one quarter of its depth. I think that they put it a jar that is too big, so that you can pour in a little hydraulic oil and mix it up to get the most dye out and into the oil reservoir.
thanks for teaching. i can't help but wonder if storing the tool in cat litter would run the risk of introducing contaminant to your hydro circuit "next time" you use that tool. silica is the last thing in the world you want on hydraulic tools like that...
Any thoughts on a video showing how to add shims to the hydraulic system to increase pressure? I know I would like a walk though as mine is lower than factory spec and it struggles to lift implements in the three point.
I have a 2009 5105 compact tractor that my front loader will not raise bucket, and the lever shows signs of hydraulic leak. Do I need to replace the levers for th bucket lift
AG couplers are designed to leak oil when coupling or de coupling as a cleaning feature. The idea is to flush the dust and dirt from the couplers and prevent damage. Something you should discuss and demonstrate is the fact the oil in the hoses and cylinders does not circulate through the system. The cylinders are basically a dead end street for the fluid and the hoses should be disconnected at the cylinders and flushed when changing your hydraulic fluid. For front end loaders, a typical complaint is "floppy bucket" which is caused by air accumulating in the hose or cylinder. Again, the hose should be disconnected and flushed to remove the air. It is that air that causes the increase in pressure in the line which makes the coupler impossible to re connect. Last, a pair of 8" adjustable wrenches kept on the tractor is the safest way to relieve the pressure in the hoses when the couplers won't re connect. They fit all sizes and are a fraction of the price of the Waite tool.
Thank you so much foe this video! My dad had been working on the hydraulic fluid for hours, I watched this and in 5 minutes we found a coupling out of place. Ha!
I have found, as long as it is dry out, that opening the 4 in one or grapple and letting it hang open before disconnecting will draw air in when gravity coses the bucket. This keeps the pressure from building back up. Disadvantage is vacuum is retained if weather seals are good. My weather seals are weeping oil, so no vacuum after a few minutes.
Tim, I have a 120R loader on my 2019 2025R. One cylinder does not seem to want to retract all the way. So, when I put the bucket or forks one, I can't get the pin in one the bottom all the way without a lot of force an if I do it's very hard to remove. The front attachment arms also are hard to keep in sync. I saw something about the lower bar between the two sometimes having slop in the pins. That doesn't seem to be the issue. This seemed to happen for no reason and I have cycled the cylinders many times to try to relieve any possible air in it. Nothing appears to be bent. Thoughts?
The front attachment arms out of sync is not an issue. Ignore it…you can easily push one to line them up when connecting to bucket. To get the boom cylinders in sync, raise all the way, then lower all the way a few times. Should get them lined up.
@@TractorTimewithTim It's one of the tilt cylinders that won't pull back all the way. It also will weep forward a bit when no attachment is on and the tractor is shut down. I don't have any leaking fluids.
@@Paint1970 once connected to the bucket, can you get them in sync? Again, there is no need to be concerned about them being out of sync when not connected. It is simple ‘T’, oil will push the side of least resistance.
@@TractorTimewithTim One side still won't retract all the way to be in sync. That being said, I cant pin the one side in and the bucket/loader are not bent. Can it be air? That side will creep forward a bit with no attachment while shut down.
I have a issue with my tractors front loaders bucket. When I go to curl it it doesn’t really want to but when I do the curl up function it corks properly and I don’t know if it’s the loader control or the hydraulic system. Do you have any idea what it could be?
Hey Tim, have you ,had to replace the timing bar on Johnny? I just purchased a new one. Looking at it, it seems it should slide in from one side or the other. I don't want to damage or mushroom the end of it. I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find information on replacing this bar. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
45 years ago, the Air Force drill into us the dangers of hydraulic fluid pressures. I have always wore gloves when dealing with hydraulic hoses and fittings after seeing the films back then.
I have a question about a JD 4100. Basically my bucket won't curl either way it goes up and down and when i switch the hoses it will curl. It seems like the joy Stick won't go side to side just up and down. Am i doing something wrong?
@@TractorTimewithTim the up and down are on left stick and the pull in is on right hand .. I'm used to cat where the up and down is usually on right hand ect
Hi Tim. So I watched this video buy I am still having trouble with my 1023E front loader not wanting to go down when the engine is running. I have disconnected all couplers and cleaned them with wd40. Reconnected and it still won't go down when engine is running. It will allow me to lower it slowly down when the engine is off. Anything else I can check?
Do all other functions work well? Lift, tilt, curl? Try plugging the lift/lower hoses into the tilt/curl plugs. And try the reverse…tilt curl hoses into lift/lower plugs. Do all 4 functions work then? This will help you isolate the issue.
@TractorTimewithTim yes, all other functions work. I'll try changing ports and see what happens. Maybe it's a bad quick connect? Any way to free it up if it is a frozen/defective quick connect or does it have to be changed?
Only have 15 hours on my 1025R. I viewed this video when it first came out. Today I was having problem with my bucket only raising half way and thought I broke something. Checked the couplers and sure enough one had slipped out, but still sitting in the connector. Saved me a lot of time looking for a solution. Thank you for your videos.
Tim, on my Kubota it happens every time i put my hydraulic snow plow on. I just crack a connection on the hose line on loader arm. Drips three drops & bingo on.
Visit simplisafe.com/TTWT to check out SimpliSafe’s award-winning home security that keeps your home safe around the clock! It’s reliable, easy to use, and there are no contracts.
Tim Ken this something non farmers don't know we thank you we put this video in the library
God Bless All
PaK
Ohhh my goodness! I have a Kubota MX5000 and one of my hydraulic connections was loose and leaking, so I tightened it. Instantly it fixed the leak, but then my bucket wouldn't curl, but would go up and down. I thought something broke inside of my control box. I was so frustrated thinking that maybe the pressure broke something in the controller. Watch your video and you said 90% of the time the snap connection is loose and not connected. I kid you not, THAT WAS THE PROBLEM! I must have knocked it loose when I was tightening the hose connection with my wrench. I didn't notice that it was snapped off. Thanks Tim and Ken!
Thanks Tim for the advise! My loader would only go up half way so I came in and RUclipsd you and found the problem was a loose line at the coupler. You did it again. Thanks a lot.
Glad it helped
I've always cleaned off/out both male & female coupler connections before re-connecting them back together & ive never had any leaks drip on the floor. . . that I can recall. . .!!!
On the spring loaded "poppets" ball, in these connections, after I have cycled the loader control joystick valve to relieve the pressure, for the female side, ive gently used a small nut driver to push in the poppet ball to relieve the pressure & on the male side, ive used a rag to cover the end as mentioned & used my gloved fingers to push that poppet in. Thankya Tim & Ken for sharing this awesome video!
WOW!... GREAT video guys!...It answered so many of my questions and connected the "dots" of information I've read & seen on the web over the past 5 years. This video is getting bookmarked! The info on all the important specs for the O ring was so helpful Maybe you could talk about backhoe storage & the leak down of the stabilizer legs while storedThanks!
Great series with Ken. Have him on again. I learned a lot.
Tim and Ken thanks for some great tips. Personal experience, the hydraulic pressure relief tool is a super solution for pressure relief. And, I thought I was the only one who can hardly tell the hydraulic level on the dipstick….the dye is a clever solution. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience. Blessings.
Tim and Ken I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Recently I experienced what seemed like a major leak on one of my tractors. Your advice not to panic and a little leak seems like a lot was spot on. After checking my connections, I found that an O-ring and connector was bad. Your video helped me diagnose the problem and get up and running again. Never knew John Deere made a red dye for the hydraulic fluid. It definitely makes checking the sight glass for fluid easy and confirms that the leak has been repaired. Thanks again and keep up the great videos!
Great video. One thing I didn’t hear mentioned in the discussion of O-rings is how heat builds up during use, especially around couplings and fittings, which will deteriorate the rings over time. Heat does as much damage as re-coupling.
Great, great video! Thanks so very much for your very informative video on hydraulic problems! You addressed exactly the problem I was having with my front loader. I followed Ken’s clear instructions and used wd40 to clean my hydraulic connectors before and after disconnecting them.From now on that will be my primary use for WD40. After cleaning and reattaching the connectors my bucket performed flawlessly! I greatly appreciate what you guys do and the ways in which you gently show where your true priorities are!
You just had to show me crashing into the grapple with Vinnie!! LOL!
You threw up your hands like a rodeo cowboy who just tied a steer. "Done!!" haha, Thanks for your the great tips Ken.
@@HuserHelpers I was thinking more like "unsafe at any speed" LOL...It definitely takes some getting used too!
Those Ventrac articulated tractors do take some getting used to. Plus you had a pretty wide front mower deck there.
@@frankponte4031 It was an 8' mower.
Learned something from the video about using WD-40. Thank you. Seeing fluid level on the dip stick was mentioned, something I learned a long time ago was to take a 3 cornered file and put a small notch in the side of the dip stick at the full level and anywhere else, such as 1/2 or 1/4 or so, makes it a lot easier to tell where the level is.
That was it! Our bucket wouldn't work properly so we cleaned the connectors, and reattached and now we are in business. Thank you!
My goodness what great timing. I had the exact scenario 2 days ago with my grapple. I ended up having to loosen the line and it dumped a tablespoon of oil to relieve pressure. When I parked it it was about 50°, and 90° when I was trying to hook it up.
Thanks gents for sharing the knowledge about the hydrologic connections. Very informative. I just signed up for Tractor Universe. I can't wait to see what this new addition offers.
It will only be as good as you make it! Add your questions to the forum section!
Great video! I just ordered the dye, orange of course for my Kubota, and 100 Buna-N 70-a o-rings from Amazon. $15 for everything! Thank you!
Yep done that, couplers can be a problem even on a Kioti!
And my John Deere.
Another way is to take your time and make sure no pressure is on your attachment by level and then before you disconnecting it
Shut the tractor off, move your controls around with the engine off and key on to relief pressure in your 3 rd.function.
Great job Tim and Ken.
Cheers from ID.
Well, pressure can develop because of temperature changes even when disconnected
Your instruction fixed my Honda 6522!! Thank you so much!!
Thanks for the info about the Waite tool. I haven't heard of that before and will check it out.
A very relaxed and informative program. Your guest knew how to keep it simple.
Thanks
Bob
Thank You for another great video, Tim! I have been dealing with a chronic issue ever since the first time that I removed and then re-installed the FEL on my 2008 John Deere 2305 TLB. From what i saw in this video, I suspect that I need to clean the female quick-disconnects on the tractor with WD-40. Hopefully that will alleviate the issue... God Bless You and your family!
You guys were spot on about the loader valve connections! Thanks so much!! Problem fixed without hauling it to the dealer for
A fix! Save me several hundred there!
Looking fo that waite tool now for 1/2" coupling on my JD! Seems to be out of stock!
Tim and Ken, thanks a ton for providing great information.
Hi Tim and Kenny,
Good to see you both and giving some good tips on how to solve some of the hydraulic issues that come up from time to time.
Kenny, what did you thing about the Ventrac? LOL.
It was Tim's fault! LOL
Great Review!....the "Tim & Ken Show" never disappoints!
They are hydraulics, they have to leak to work properly! Although very very minimal leakage. Every time a cylinder runs in or out there are minute quantities of oils on the cylinder rods. Our job as owners is to keep the oil loss to an minimal acceptable level. Besides small amounts of oil works great as a rust preventative! Great content Tim!
Master Tim, you know this already I am sure but for others out there some third function valves allow you to manually relieve pressure at the valve without having to power the valve up and do so with the switch. I do this all the time with my W.R. Long third function valve. There are two indents at the top and bottom of the valve where you push them in with a screwdriver to relieve pressure. 🙂
Excellent discussion of the hydraulics for a tractor. Tractor Universe should be an excellent source of information.
Very informative video. Thank you Tim and Ken. You guys are great together. The whole series with Ken and hydraulic has been great.
More to come :-)
Jhon deere dose not make there own fittings. I found out that they are made by a company called Parker Hannifin. They make the parts and hoses and fittings for john deere and you can get the tool and fittings from them and they make the parts of more than john deere. They are pretty much at cost to.
I've been using starting fluid to clean the hyd fittings as we did years ago on the farm. I'm sure the ole WD works just as well.
I’m with you Randal. Starting fluid is a great cleaner/degreaser for such applications.
Great video! I learned that a tool can be purchased to relieve the pressure in attachment's side of hydraulic lines. I've got flat face couplers on my Kubota. What's the best way to determine the correct size flat face coupler so I can purchase the right tool from Ken? Thanks you you both, Tim and Ken!
Love this series... Thanks to you and Ken for putting it on!
Very very helpful! I just experienced a malfunction with my bucket not curling all the way. I'm going to go back out and check my connections.
Tim! It was just what you guys said. I was dragging my field, and a few branches we're getting beneath the tractor, and uncoupled one my lines. I cleaned the area of mud and debris, and disconnected all four couplings to see which one was loose. When I got to the last one, it just fell off from being disconnected already. I cleaned all of them with Wd40, and coupled them back, and wallah! 🕺🏽
But on another note, I was disappointed with my John Deere service department: when I called and explained the problem, the mechanic said he never heard of such a problem, and I should bring it in. Thanks to you and your friend, I was able to remedy the problem myself, and very quickly. Thank a million!
You solved my hydraulic problem in the first 5 minutes of the video. Thank you!!
Glad we could help.
Several very good tips along with the discussion.
Tim and Ken, thanks a bunch. Much answered questions. Thanks again!
Very well done video with a lot of good information
I had a stick pop up and remove a coupler on the loader. I could not lower the loader and my super human strength failed me and I could not get the coupler on 🥺. I put a log under the bucket tipped down until I could relieve the pressure on the loader arm. Only then could I connect the coupler 😊
You guys Rock! John Deere 2720 loader would only lift half way. ThIs just occurred during a heavy brushing session. Cleaned loader quick connects thoroughly and BINGO! Cheers and Thank You!
Best Regards
Glad it worked for you!
I would have never thought about that wonderful information thanks.
Very informative especially for a first time tractor 🚜 owner. Thank you.
Couldn’t figure out what was wrong and in 1 minute you solved it. Awesome video
RUclips for the win again. Had a stick break both my forward and reverse pedals yesterday. Got that fixed or at least semi-fixed and now my bucket wouldn't dump. Look down. I guess when the pedals got demolished they pulled one of the quick connectors apart
Always a great informative video when you and Ken get together. Love his bolt on hooks. Thanks.
This was a fantastic and informative video, thank you.
I really do believe you are a very unique family God bless you I really do believe you are a very unique family God bless you and your family have a good summer Thank you again from the south eastern Minnesota
Great video Tim. Ken is very informative of tractor mechanics as you are.
Martha is looking good and healthy.
How is Katriel doing? Is she still overseas? Do you think she'll pop home with her flip flops to help you out? BTW I don't mean any disrespect about flip flops. I wear them all summer.
She'll be back soon, after 10 months in Italy!
@@TractorTimewithTim Awesome! She has a great sense of humor.
Story time...check your o rings, the struggle is real! I just recently did the 200 hour hydraulic service on my 2018 1025R, and I didn’t check the o ring on the aluminum “fitting” that holds the mesh filter with the magnet inside the reservoir. The outer o ring that seals between the fitting and the reservoir orifice was compressed (but not visibly damaged...I checked after the fact😕) so it hemorrhaged oil about 15 minutes after I thought I was done. I had to buy a new oil drain container as to not contaminate the $120 worth of hygard low viscosity hydraulic oil (stuff’s expensive here in Canada)...all because I didn’t replace a 40 cent o ring!
Is there a diagnosis for chatter in the loader operation ? Thanks !
Thanks Tim, Truly appreciate this video. Resolved my problem.
Hey Tim and Christy, did you see you got a thank you article in the latest issue of "The Seeing Eye Guide" magazine. How awesome that the TTWT community donated over $5,000, including your generous match.
Yes! Very generous viewers! Very nice article from the Seeing Eye!
The verse at the end gave me a chuckle 🤭…love them👍
I just went to Ken's site and he no longer deals with the 'Waite' tools to decompress hydraulic lines. Would love to see another video of some existing and available tools to decompress lines that have built up pressure.?. Thanks, Tim!
Sorry. He could not get supply from them.
great content!! Wondering, can you explain how to bleed a hydraulic system? also any input on running larger I.D hoses for faster controls? I have a old hydrostatic JD400 and having issues with the system filling with air and bleeding it out
Should not need to bleed hydraulic system.
I wonder if you need more oil in reservoir?
Larger hoses will not make lift faster.
@@TractorTimewithTim I have a old 1975 JohnDeere400 hydrostatic. Learning a lot but this system is all new to me. Fluid always seems to over flow from the breather and I know when I drop the fluid to change it, it’s all airy and full of bubbles.
Still need to pressure test the system and can only think it must have a leak in the system and pulling air in not sure how it’s pushing fluid from the breather though.
There is a problem. Unfortunately, I am not experienced enough to diagnose. Sorry!
@@TractorTimewithTim not a problem at all. You did help with making sure to set attachments down and 3pt down before checking the levels. I will do that. Like I said grateful for your content and will continue to follow
I had this pressure problem with my grapple. Once I figured out what was going on, I was able to loosen one of the hose connections on the grapple with a wrench to relieve the pressure.
I never take my loader off and the grapple is the first implement I have that has hydraulics... That little pressure relief tool would have been handy!
This video saved me a bunch of money. Thank you!
Glad we could help. Subscribe to our channel :-)
I appreciate the video. The first 1 minute gave the solution to my problem.
What is the proper way to get air out of the loader hydraulic system? My dump and curl function for my 2305 seems to have air in it. Back story, last year the loader had one line that the male fitting was leaking oil when unhooked from the tractor. I didn’t bother to see were that line went just replaced the fitting. Now a lot of the time when I try to back drag with the bucket it will not hold its position. As soon as I start backing up and the bucket makes contact with something, it will curl back 5”-6” before starting to hold position. If I put the bucket on the surface I am back dragging and then dump the bucket down to the position I want to back drag it will stay put.
This is not ‘air’ in the system. The bucket will move until it encounters enough pressure to keep it from curling. It is normal...but frustrating.
The system purges air automatically, no need for you to try to do it. Also read the sticky thread about "REGEN" in the hydraulics forum on GTT, that will help explain it too.
@@TractorTimewithTim the bucket did not flop around before the loss of fluid and the fitting change. The loaders and tractor front end loaders that I use to run growing up on the farm did not move very much, less than an 1.5”. This thing is floppy most of the time trying to back drag up to 6”. It definitely not the same as before.
@@boltonhooks2149 so if I read that correctly, I just need to hold it in the dump position to allow time for the air to be pushed out of the cylinder?
@@briannelson2818 yup, that should do it.
Thank you Tim. I fix my tractor thank you very much. That was a problem. A loose hydraulihose. By the way enjoy your videos great job keep up the good work
Hey, that's great stuff guys! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks very much! answered my question at the beginning 👍👍
Happy to help!
I just had to replace one of the male couplers last week @ 125 hrs. I was able to find a set of 4 from your friends at Summit Hydraulics for just under $30: John Deere AW32184 Replacement Male Hydraulic Quick Coupler Plug (SKU#AW32184). Threaded on like the OEM.
I feel like I'm loader isn't lifting up good with weigh I installed a third function diverter on my JD 1025r any suggestions
I assume you mean that it has reduced lift capacity? If so, get a pressure gauge from boltonhooks.com to check the hydraulic pressure.
Great Vid Tim and Ken, Having recently installed a FEL after market on my tractor. I found that when lifting a substantial load which the FEL has no problem lifting, the steering (power) seems to lock up.
My question, the reason I found this vid is that, is there a separate pump to feed the steering cylinder or is this fed from the main hydraulic system and, uses some way the steering wheel linkage to control that steering cylinder?
The fact that I can lift the load indicates to me that the system pressure may be ok but, I am having a flow issue . Your thoughts are appreciated. I have a CT235 Bobcat with a factory installed joystick/valve.
Loader and tractor work fine when lifting lighter loads. Just not quite sure how the steering function works
Curious to know if any buddy in this community has run into a similar situation. Thanks in advance
Some small machines share a pump. Check the specs of your tractor.
The John Deere hydraulic oil dye is P/N MT3668, and cost me $11.17 as a non-stocked part at my local dealership.
Note: The first time you buy this, and open the small glass jar with the Teflon tape around the threads and look down in it, you are going to think that you have been sent a faulty jar of this dye, maybe it evaporated, or have been ripped off. When in fact, that is not the case. The dye only fills up the jar about one eighth of its depth, maybe one quarter of its depth. I think that they put it a jar that is too big, so that you can pour in a little hydraulic oil and mix it up to get the most dye out and into the oil reservoir.
greenpartstore.com/ttwt
Tim, appreciate you and Ken for putting this series of hydraulics together.
thanks for teaching. i can't help but wonder if storing the tool in cat litter would run the risk of introducing contaminant to your hydro circuit "next time" you use that tool. silica is the last thing in the world you want on hydraulic tools like that...
Long time since we did this video. What tool did we store in cat litter???
@@TractorTimewithTim The waite one
Any thoughts on a video showing how to add shims to the hydraulic system to increase pressure? I know I would like a walk though as mine is lower than factory spec and it struggles to lift implements in the three point.
Deere doesn’t use ‘shims’. Tech support manual shows how to adjust.
We are a bit reluctant to show this for a variety of reasons.
It’s on an x758. And I understand why you wouldn’t want the liability. Doesn’t take much to take one of these systems past the point of no return.
Ok, in that case, I think you DO have shims.
Really great content, as always. Thanks Tim
I have a 2009 5105 compact tractor that my front loader will not raise bucket, and the lever shows signs of hydraulic leak. Do I need to replace the levers for th bucket lift
AG couplers are designed to leak oil when coupling or de coupling as a cleaning feature. The idea is to flush the dust and dirt from the couplers and prevent damage.
Something you should discuss and demonstrate is the fact the oil in the hoses and cylinders does not circulate through the system. The cylinders are basically a dead end street for the fluid and the hoses should be disconnected at the cylinders and flushed when changing your hydraulic fluid. For front end loaders, a typical complaint is "floppy bucket" which is caused by air accumulating in the hose or cylinder. Again, the hose should be disconnected and flushed to remove the air. It is that air that causes the increase in pressure in the line which makes the coupler impossible to re connect. Last, a pair of 8" adjustable wrenches kept on the tractor is the safest way to relieve the pressure in the hoses when the couplers won't re connect. They fit all sizes and are a fraction of the price of the Waite tool.
Thank you so much foe this video! My dad had been working on the hydraulic fluid for hours, I watched this and in 5 minutes we found a coupling out of place. Ha!
I have found, as long as it is dry out, that opening the 4 in one or grapple and letting it hang open before disconnecting will draw air in when gravity coses the bucket. This keeps the pressure from building back up. Disadvantage is vacuum is retained if weather seals are good. My weather seals are weeping oil, so no vacuum after a few minutes.
Tim, I have a 120R loader on my 2019 2025R. One cylinder does not seem to want to retract all the way. So, when I put the bucket or forks one, I can't get the pin in one the bottom all the way without a lot of force an if I do it's very hard to remove. The front attachment arms also are hard to keep in sync. I saw something about the lower bar between the two sometimes having slop in the pins. That doesn't seem to be the issue. This seemed to happen for no reason and I have cycled the cylinders many times to try to relieve any possible air in it. Nothing appears to be bent. Thoughts?
The front attachment arms out of sync is not an issue. Ignore it…you can easily push one to line them up when connecting to bucket.
To get the boom cylinders in sync, raise all the way, then lower all the way a few times. Should get them lined up.
@@TractorTimewithTim It's one of the tilt cylinders that won't pull back all the way. It also will weep forward a bit when no attachment is on and the tractor is shut down. I don't have any leaking fluids.
@@Paint1970 once connected to the bucket, can you get them in sync?
Again, there is no need to be concerned about them being out of sync when not connected. It is simple ‘T’, oil will push the side of least resistance.
@@TractorTimewithTim One side still won't retract all the way to be in sync. That being said, I cant pin the one side in and the bucket/loader are not bent. Can it be air? That side will creep forward a bit with no attachment while shut down.
I have a issue with my tractors front loaders bucket. When I go to curl it it doesn’t really want to but when I do the curl up function it corks properly and I don’t know if it’s the loader control or the hydraulic system. Do you have any idea what it could be?
Hey Tim, have you ,had to replace the timing bar on Johnny? I just purchased a new one. Looking at it, it seems it should slide in from one side or the other. I don't want to damage or mushroom the end of it. I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find information on replacing this bar. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The timing bar??
@@TractorTimewithTim the timing bar is the silver bar that rqualizes the curl on the FEL.
👍 Good Information. Thank you.
Great information thank you for sharing do appreciate
Great info. This one will be one of those saved for reference videos.
i use a die in my hydraulics on my crane helps to find oil leaks on the cylinders when the seals are wearing out
WD-40 was never intended to be a lubricant, but great info for JD stuff. Trying to help my uncles widow fix my uncles fave toy.
45 years ago, the Air Force drill into us the dangers of hydraulic fluid pressures. I have always wore gloves when dealing with hydraulic hoses and fittings after seeing the films back then.
I have a question about a JD 4100. Basically my bucket won't curl either way it goes up and down and when i switch the hoses it will curl. It seems like the joy Stick won't go side to side just up and down. Am i doing something wrong?
Sounds like the valve (scv) might be bad.
I use brake cleaner to clean the hydraulic coupler, then followup with silicon spray
Great Video! Great information!
What is the repair for the 3 point bouncing on my 1025r.
I’m not sure. I need to check on that.
Hello tim show a video about backhoe hydraulic lines for the controls 👌 mine are backwards
I responded to your comment yesterday. How are they ‘backwards’? There are two standards.
@@TractorTimewithTim the up and down are on left stick and the pull in is on right hand .. I'm used to cat where the up and down is usually on right hand ect
Hi Tim. So I watched this video buy I am still having trouble with my 1023E front loader not wanting to go down when the engine is running. I have disconnected all couplers and cleaned them with wd40. Reconnected and it still won't go down when engine is running. It will allow me to lower it slowly down when the engine is off. Anything else I can check?
Do all other functions work well? Lift, tilt, curl?
Try plugging the lift/lower hoses into the tilt/curl plugs.
And try the reverse…tilt curl hoses into lift/lower plugs. Do all 4 functions work then?
This will help you isolate the issue.
@TractorTimewithTim yes, all other functions work. I'll try changing ports and see what happens. Maybe it's a bad quick connect? Any way to free it up if it is a frozen/defective quick connect or does it have to be changed?
@@paulcorsetto6047 if just a quick coupler, that is easy! Just replace it. Especially if on the loader side. Cheap:-)
@@TractorTimewithTim do you have a video on that?
Only have 15 hours on my 1025R. I viewed this video when it first came out. Today I was having problem with my bucket only raising half way and thought I broke something. Checked the couplers and sure enough one had slipped out, but still sitting in the connector. Saved me a lot of time looking for a solution. Thank you for your videos.
This was an awesome video thanks Larry
Tim, on my Kubota it happens every time i put my hydraulic snow plow on. I just crack a connection on the hose line on loader arm. Drips three drops & bingo on.
You should get the Waite tool.
Great series Tim. I learned a lot!
Wonderful video. Great job Tim!
The verse at the end makes me wonder how much trouble you are in. lol
We’re all in a lot of trouble....without the grace of Jesus!
Yes yes we are Tim thank you for the proverbs.
The leaking when connecting/disconnecting the couplers, I just consider them "self lubricating".
Nice video. Thanks. I have the Waite tool. Works great, stays with the 1025r in a ziploc bag with a rag.
Bill
Great info, Tim and Ken. I was pronouncing "Waite" wrong :)
Ha! Or maybe WE are!!??
Great info!!!!