2.5 million miles of long haul Trucking. These are my five top suggestions. 1. Deck top and bottom mop on used motor oil use a paint roller. Keeps all the equipment you haul from dripping oil stains. Never let it weather. 2. Air bags that you have to inflate and check with a gauge on the truck . Not self balancing one's. 3. Swing wide 4. Grease hitches and bearings regularly. If you can't remember when you did it last do it NOW. 5. Know before you go ! Know the height, width, tire pressure, pins locked, load securely tied down, and that your well rested. And if I were to add a sixth it would be G.O.A.L get out and look before you back. Stay safe.
Owned a small trucking company for 25 years. 100% of new hires experienced or not looked at me puzzled when I told them to use the GOAL method. Good advice there people.
GOAL means go completely around the entire rig and actually look & think not just walk back & then return to driver seat. COMPLETE 360 all the way around the rig!
As an old flat bedder in a big rig and a guy that hauls his 4320 around the area with a pick-up I had to watch this twice to take notes. Nothing I say is in malice, just experience and I love your channel. 1: if running singles then go to a tri-axle to balance the load. (takes weight off the drives and center the engine close to the trailer axles). 2: used oil is your friend, had a 60 year old manure spreader that had the original floor and sold it 20 years ago and still the same floor to this day!. 3: No cheap Chinese tires, you get what you pay for, along with west Nile Mosquitoes. 4: Chains rule. Used to haul New Holland Tractors from Baltimore into Canada. 80hp and 3 at a time. Shop rags under chains saves the paint. Straps are for lumber or drywall. 5: Rub rail, is just that. Not a tie down. Stake pockets are with chains. D rings are preferred and the slide in ones you have are the cats ass! Wish I had that option. 6: 8 D rings at $360 a bit expensive. Look at the diameter of the quick drop D's vs the welded D's. 7: If you truck needs airbags then you need a bigger truck, simple as that. Once you add aftermarket bags to a factory suspension, you disrupt the spring rate and pinion angle on rebound and now are wearing out U joints and drive shafts are skidding down the highway. Just my two Loonies as two cents don't go too far these days. Cudos
That's great advice!! Been wondering what to use and didn't wanna fork out the bucks for sealers. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Troy. Just saved me bunch of money!! God bless you, sir.
I highly appreciate the “Sealing the trailer boards with motor oil” comment, as well! Superb! First-time owner of a heavy equipment trailer here. I bought it last year, and I just want to make sure it is good years and years down the road. Again, thank you!
Do the same with my trailer deck. 50/50 oil and diesel fuel. Last more than a year here. I prob don't load more than 50 times a year tho. Other than that I try to keep it under roof.
Strong dump trailers offer the best of both worlds. Moving machinery and carrying a lot of materials serving dual purpose. Our contractors switched from open carry to dumps and have never regretted the change. 2500 Ram with Cummins diesel helps.
From a guy that spent years pulling a flat bed tractor and trailer. First have a twist in your straps. That stops them from flapping in the wind. Don't cross or "X" your straps. If one strap breaks you really loose both. Check them for tightness often. Specially within the first few miles. And my fav, you really can't use too many straps and that spreads the load, reduces damage. Chains would be best for what you are hauling. But you have weight to consider and damage to paint etc. As for the deck, they're pressure treated boards; replace before you fall through.
Black Hawk International Security thanks for the tip. I’ve been making an X with my straps for loads in the bed of my truck for years. Never realized that’s not the optimum way of doing it. I’ll discontinue that practice right away. So glad I read your comment.
@@davidr3246 That one I learned the hard way. With the "X" you got one pulling across to the other side. Then you have the other one pulling against it. If one breaks or comes unhooked, the other strap doesn't have anything to counter it. Next time try this. When you're crossing it out, as your tightening down the first strap, watch your load shift. Then imagine the other strap has broken and you're going into a curve that is worse than you thought. If the strap is pulling the right direction you're good. If it's not, then you have a strap helping the load come off. Be safe
Look into super springs for your tow rig. With air you need an air source. Super springs are added to the leaf pack. I have them on my tow rig and will never go back to airbags.
Treat your wooden decks with Linseed oil and Turpentine mixed 50 /50. You can use in on fences, and concrete too. To apply you can spray, roll, brush . I've been in the Ready mix business for 30 yrs now this is the best sealer I have ever used. Grampa taught me this many years ago.
I use a 60% turps and boiled linseed mix for the first coat and 40%turps 60%linseed for the final coats. I believe it penetrates further dries faster and lasts longer. Apply coats add long as the wood is absorbing it. And your done!
There was an extensive study done in Canada on concrete with boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. It out performed ALL the super expensive sealers. Some things are right in front of us and we never see them.
@@TYMWLTL Been in the manufacture and delivery of Concrete for 30 yrs now. Never have a problem, and people love the fact they can use it on their wood decks, fences, trailer decks as well.
My trailer tires are only 6 ply and my toilet paper is only 2 ply! Something seems backwards here...🤔 Great information on trailers though! Thanks for taking the time to do it.
I have installed air bags on two of my Ram trucks and I would not tow without them. My third Ram came with factory air bags and they are awesome. I would recommend getting an on board air compressor with the wireless control system. That gives you more adjustability for the different weights you will be hauling. For deck treatment I use a sealer that comes with a color tint to it. I prefer the dark red color. You dont see that very often on trailer decks and it makes the deck look really custom.
I have cut old firehose in half to place as a barrier between a tractor and the tie down chains. Keeps paint from taking a hit, but the added security of chain binders.
I run a nonprofit equine therapy program for kids and adults with disabilities and AirLift is one of our sponsors. They sent us 7500 pound airbags, compressor and remote for our 2017 f250, we absolutely love it. We run four different trailers from horse trailers, enclosed trailers to flatbeds and the bags are a must and the ride is amazing.
On an equipment hauler 24' and over, always pay the extra and get tandem duels and higher capacity axles.. Not that much higher but 200 times safer and more useful.
Listen to this guy if you are looking for a trailer for a Tractor. I have a Branson full frame 40 hp tractor and with brush hog and front end bucket it is 19 feet 7 inches. I just purchased my fourth trailer. Finally got a 32 foot gooseneck..
If you don't have D rings on your trailer then I would consider the stake pocket D rings. I moved a car on a flatbed trailer on a trip of over 2K miles. When I stopped to fuel up I went back to check the trailer and found that one of the straps I had used to secure the car had almost abraded through as it was rubbing on the rail. The J hook would not fit down trough the stake pocket so I had to attach it from the outside. I didn't know about stake pocket D rings. The bottom line is you don't want any part of the strap rubbing on any metal anywhere. I have air bags on my F250 Superduty diesel truck and use them to level out when hauling my 28' goose neck 5th wheel. They work great and not had any trouble with them in the 8 years they have been installed.
You did a great job on this video. You covered a lot of ground, and I especially appreciate sharing your experiences. As for keeping paint looking fresh, try to keep them shedded. But even your PJ paint will dull and fade. No getting around that unless you understand why cars and trucks do not show weathering as fast. The difference is in the coat exposed to the weather - Clear Coat over your final paint layer keeps the UV rays under control. If you want to fix up your faded enclosed trailer neck, repaint then add Clear Coat.
I made my trailer, tires were same as my tow vehicle (235-85-16 with 16x7 rims on 6.5" 8 lug single). Decking (full width, 16') is pressure treated full length lumber, just pressure washed, and reapply Thompson water seal, same as my deck at home. I needed a trailer to haul my tow truck, and now use it to haul my tractor. 6 Roblees for spring hangers, lights etc, chopped dana 60 axles, surge brakes, and a hand brake on the tongue. Have fun
Boiled linseed oil. First application you can thin with mineral spirits for deeper penetrate. Then follow up with a second application with a less thin down or not thin down at all. Remember to becareful with your rags as they can catch fire. I've used used motor oil for protecting wood. It's works well and has a good price tag. Helper Leaf Springs. Air bags can blow out if over loaded and they have to be aired up.
I've fabricated custom gooseneck & pull-b-hind trailers for 47 years. When the customer want's wood decking instead of steel, I've tried many different finish's. What I have found to work the best (Hands Down) is one part "Boiled Linseed Oil" mixed with 3 parts "Rust-O-leum" paint. (What ever color the trailer is painted). The Boiled linseed oil lets the paint go on extremely easy and penetrates the deep into the wood. Lasts year's and look's great. also not as slippery as straight paint on the deck.
Finally someone mentioning to use thinned paint. I have done this to wood used outside and it has outlasted 'ground contact' pressure treated wood. Usually do a more 50/50 mix and at least 2 coats. Looks like a semi-transparent stain, but lasts forever. Best part is if you want a solid color, you just paint on a final unthinned coat.
To treat my trailer deck i used Thompsons Timber Oil (clear or natural ). I f your trailer is new wait 6 months for the treated lumber to dry out. Then apply with a roller or paint pad. It is a wood preservative so it will absorb into the deck and not be greasy, slick or attract dirt after it drys. It's a bit expensive but it will last for years.
OK I have owned many trailers also. I'm up in the North East where there is lots of bad weather in all four seasons. I found after many decks of all kinds of wood both soft woods and hard woods that a mixture of boiled linseed oil with mineral spirits mixed 50/50 is economical. It soaks in beautifully. It dries to touch (because that is what the mineral spirits does to linseed oil). You mix up five gallons and you can get up on the deck with a big soft roller and coat the deck quickly. By the time you work your way to the end you can start over on a second coat. Depending on your wood type you might see it soak in enough for a quick third coat. You'll figure that out. I try to do it in warm weather every other year or three. It will turn your deck dark almost black but anything I can do to get ten years or better out of a deck is cheap in my book. I hate tearing off old decks and putting new wood on trailers. And old guy told me this and now I,m old and telling you. Boiled linseed oil in 5 gallon pail and 5 gallons of mineral spirits will do a twenty footer twice. That's six years and a perfectly sealed no slip deck. God bless America.
Used motor oil on all my wood deck trailer, my 1991 Landscapping still has original 2x10s that are solid. Also all of my trailers are stored outside year around with coating there decks every 3 to 5 years. Thanks for the videos
I have a half ton pickup and pull a 24 ft 5th wheel camper. I put air bags on and love them. It levels out the pickup and smoothes out the bumps. They make kits specific to your truck and can install them yourself.
I use Firestone airbags that are specific for a vehicle. I order them from SD Springs, (South Dakota Springs) as a kit. They are a couple hour job to install yourself. I drive Ram trucks with Cummins for towing. Even though the kits are advertised as NO DRILL, I have found that you still need to do some minor drilling and may have to move a shock to get the drill and bolts aligned. I inflate each bag separately rather than in a T with one line for inflation. I have never had a problem with the Firestone Bags going back at least 12 years.
Firestone was going to be my recommendation too. Also look into the on-board air compressor. You can use it to air up tires and run small air tools if necessary. I get my stuff from Summit Racing Equipment out of Akron, Ohio but, Firestone kits are widely available.
Im a professional painter and what I would suggest for sealing your deck is this. 1. Use Benjamin Moore Deck Cleaner/Stipper (radish-pink label) to clean and open the wood pores. 2. Use Benjamin Moore Deck Brightener (yellowish-white label) to neutralize the chemicals and pressure treatment chemicals of the wood. 3. Use a Stain Product called "Ready Seal" to stain/seal the wood in whichever color you choose. These are the only products I use from BM because they are very good for decks. Other than that, I'm a Sherwin Williams man.
Thanks for sharing your lessons learned. I've done the same thing and it sometimes feels like throwing money away until you find the right combination for your needs. But, I'm with you on keeping the "not quite rights" because they are a tool. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it!
I will be shopping for a bigger trailer soon. Great advice. Regarding air bags, I decided not to do it. I added a leaf spring on one of my F250's and it made a huge difference and did not effect the handling at all. Great video!
I don't use nylon straps. Almost dumped a Cushman utility truck in the middle of Pioneer Parkway.during rush hour after a nylon straps got cut and ripped. Fortunately a single safety chain prevented disaster. Have used chains ever since. Really like PJ Trailers. Have also had them all. Try used diesel engine oil strained to remove metal particles and diluted with diesel fuel. Ranchers in Texas use it on their wood fences with great success. I'm one of them.
Used motor oil with diesel half/half in a sprayer. I've got farm equipment that is in its 4th generation of use with original wood and metal. Don't try to soak it just a light mist after every wash or clean up.
I have had three trucks myself that I have put air bags on. They are a great way to make your truck handle a load a lot better than stock. Takes the sag out. I have installed at least ten sets on other vehicles. They are easy to put on, but I will say if your pocket book can handle it get the cab controls and on board air system. I always use Firestone ride rite set ups. Never had any problems with them. Iam a logger from northern California, I put my truck through it. I sell firewood in the winter, I deliver a cord at a time on my truck and the bags have never let me down.
I use old motor oil on our trailers which work really well but the downside is, the oil will darken your boards up quite a bit and you lose the look of your bright beautiful boards. Using mine on the farm I don't care what they look like but for hauling customers' equipment you might want to check into something else. Great video...
I used stain. Trailer stored under roof. Undercoated with fluid film. Appalachian gooseneck. 20,000#. Tandem Singles with 14 ply as you have. Ratchet straps may not be legal for certain loads as I understand. I purchased ratchet binders and chains rated for more than my load. You are better off over doing vs undergoing this...especially if something bad happens. Thanks for the video!
Really enjoyed watching your video. So, I have a 2015 bought new BigTex 40 foot GN22 with tandem duals and hydraulic dovetail. I love it, I have a kubota m7040 with fel and a batwing rc2512 mower. Never had any issues as of yet. As far as the deck, I have not treated it at all. The price and time to treat it verses every 10 years to replace the wood as needed evens out. Don't use old oil, seems good but no, eventually the oil seems out and if the wrong DOT cop checks you out and see it, it goes down hill fast. ..... The D rings sounds good idea but just use a chain with ratchet binder thru the chain spools. As far as chain marking up equipment, just slide an old fire hose over the chain and no issues at all. The hose is tough and follows the chain in any direction it goes. Also, when DOT passes you and see gold chain they know you are good to go. Straps can rub and tear in the long run. ...... Good looking trailer over all. I live in Florida so no rust really on my trailer yet. Little fading but it lives outside. ....... I have sides as needed as well. Best way I've found is use the stake pockets and use a steel channel with a stop welded in it and 2x4 wood for the horizontal pieces. ......... Never had wire issues yet either on mine. Warning lights on rear is a great idea as well. I ran a 14 gauge extension cord, cut off both ends, ran one end to the warning lights in rear, other end to a 2 way flat plug to a matching plug on truck to a switch. Works awesome!! Use it when you want and off when you don't need it. ..... I pull it with a 3500 silverado crew cab and can't see hitch either when hooking up. Make a C out of 2x4 and place it just cab side of the gooseneck ball, when backing up radio and ac off and windows down, when you hear the wood knock over, your there. Hooks up first time every time. ..... I have battery for hydraulic dove tail so powers winch as well. Get a solor charger and will always be ready to go.
All great responses and comments to a good trailer video review. Several additional thoughts from my personal trailering experiences. I either prefer a triple axle trailer with premium tires underneath or twin axle dually to ensure I’ve got more than sufficient trailering capabilities with the loads I know I’ll be hauling. Like the idea of movable d-ring stake pockets over numerous welded fixed d-rings that seldom ever align correctly with where you end up placing the load on the trailer. Would suggest getting the trailer deck and front end treated with Line X box liner. It adds additional cost to the trailer, but stuff is virtually indestructible and protects wood from ever rotting, trailer front end from rock chips, and added grip getting on and off the trailer. Lastly prefer a dually truck with good quality airbags for adjustable ride each time with specific cargo you’re planning to hall.
We always use oil to seal trailers on the farm but if your worried about it discoloring the boards, we have used old hydraulic oil that we have drained out of equipment as well. Works just as good but doesn’t darken the wood, and chances are if you do any service work on them before resale you have plenty around taking up space
Hello Courtney I like your videos because they are always informative and honest. Not alot of guys would be that upfront about their bad purchases. I use diesel fuel and used motor oil solution in a garden sprayer I spray the top and underside once a year. It takes 15 minutes. The wood soaks it right in and doesn't leave my deck slippery.
I have been using clean unused motor oil on wood trailer and wagen beds, and wooden fences for over 40 years, works great. On new treated wood, wait one year then apply. I slop it on with a big brush.
Great video. I like the stake pocket D-Rings. Appreciate you sharing lessons learned. For the wood, farmers have been using used motor oil for ages. You can cut it with little diesel if you want, if the wood is dry, it will drink. Doing something as often as the wood needs it is key. I've also used regular deck stain. Over 15 years with original wood on my wood deck trailer stored mostly in the open. I think storing it under a tree or in a shaded area gives you other issues with mold, moss etc. A light pressure washing before helps with even application.
Started using used motor oil with my current trailer. So far I like it. Yeah discolored the wood, but no more “oil stain” spots from something leaking. Yes, it’s messy at first but after a few months of it soaking in, it’s like a tongue oil. Only way I wouldn’t use it now is if I had a purple heartwood deck.
For a little more rust protection on the top side of the trailer they sell clear vinyl in rolls that can be cut and stuck on around areas that get sprayed with rocks/grit, road salt, and sand from the tires. Say the front lower part of the trailer.. As well as they help a lot with around the wheel wells on the truck too, preventing paint chips. As for the underbelly of the trailer(and truck), if its pristine and clean with not a spec of dust on it you can apply (LPS 3) out of any regular automotive paint gun, spray everything on the underside its a 2 year coating for external parts, and your Ford truck actually comes with LPS 3 inside the doors from the factory its a great product.. Another one is Fluid film, but alot of dirt and debris sticks to it, and its a 6 month coating but protects and absorbs into already rusty surfaces very well.. once you put it on it freezes the metal in time. I love both products, both of them are environmentally friendly/made in the USA/ and do not harm rubber bushings or electrical. Wich brings me to the FINAL product, (LPS 1) is excellent for protection electrical, it displaces water just like WD40 but doesnt leave a sticky or wet residue. In fact its so good people use LPS 1 as a gun lubricant/ rust preventative as it will NOT allow any water inside anything it is sprayed on. Applicators are as follows: (LPS 1 in a spray can/ LPS 3 in a 1 gallon can, sprayed from paint gun/ Fluid film in 1 gallon paint can, sprayed with a fluid film specific spray gun) this is coming from years and years of testing 100's of differn't products including the famous POR 15 and martin senour paints/conversion coatings/rubber coatings/truck bed liners/etc etc etc... What I've found is fluid film/LPS 3/ vinyl wrap is the best way to protect equiptment/vehicls/trailers by far. I will never bother with paint/undercoat again after the results I've seen with those products. They are the best of the best.
I've used the Timbren SES on all my trucks from pickups,NPRs,LCWs W4,international ramp truck and box trucks. They are super easy to install and the trucks never look like you may be running heavy. The engineer's at Timbren were really helpful for some custom needs I had on a cutaway chevy I lifted a bit.
When purchasing a trailer, if your using it frequently, don't ever expect it to be your one an only trailer. As mentioned, what seems good at first, while still fine for most things, can not always meet your needs. Getting a large gooseneck trailer is a great purchase, but there will be times when a small single axle tag trailer often times is all that's needed. It's nice to own several sizes! I have several, and still find that I need one more style. I like using web straps, for items less than around 2000 lbs. Anything over that, I use chains. I like the extra safety, and more importantly, it will hopefully minimize second looks from local law enforcement, even when the straps are withing their load rating. Thanks for the information on the D-Ring stake pocket assembly. Haven't seen them before!!
I wish I had a trailer for each individual thing I do. lol My single most used trailer is a 16 foot tandem utility trailer. Light and small and can haul a few pieces of lumber to a fairly big compact tractor with loaded tires. I also prefer ratchet straps. 4 inch are my usual go to straps. About 5,500 pound work load strength and 20,000 pound rating before they break. Four of them work good on a piece of equipment up to around 15,000 pounds. Good point on the law taking notice though. A chain is a chain but they can't tell if you have "good" straps or not without stopping you to look. Haven't been stopped before though.
Thank you. New RAM 2500 4x4 crew cab long bed diesel with gooseneck in the bed. I don't tow more than 6 times per year but I'm done worrying about whether I'm overloaded with my previous setup. I'll buy a gooseneck flatbed in the next month or two to be ready for a couple of long hauls. I like your confirmation that the gooseneck setup is more comfortable to tow than a bumper pull. I assumed that was the case when I bought my truck so now I'm ready. My next decision is 26 or 32 ft trailer.
My trailer combination that works for me, owning a small construction company, is a 16' enclosed trailer with ramp door and 6 lug axles. A 20' flat bed equipment trailer with manual ramps and 7k axles and 16 ply tires, and lastly a 24' gn deck over trailer with 7k axles and 16 ply tires. Pop up dove tail with pull out ramps. The enclosed is great for a job trailer and hauling loose items and not worry about the wind or weather. The gn is great for material hauling. The bumper pull equipment trailer is great for hauling skid steer and mini excavator. The gn is a titan at 28 years old. The enclosed is a pace at 20 years old. The BP is a maxxed at 5 years old.
Firestone makes Ride Rite air bag kits for about $400 for the new SD trucks. Takes about 3 hours to install. I have put them in the last 4 trucks and have never had an issue.
Air bags - I have 5,000 lbs Firestone Ride-Rite air bags on my 2005 Ford F350 and they are the best. I have been using them for 10 years without an issue. I have the on-board air compressor and manual controller. I tow a 40' 5th wheel and the bag help with everything from rear end sagging to rear end bounce. Its an easy install.
Though I’m a subscriber, I’m just now getting to this video. Answers to your questions about treating your trailer decking. Yes, you should wait a few months to apply any topcoat to pressure treated lumber so that the chemicals can properly dry. You’ll know they’re ready when the boards turn slightly gray. My recommended topcoat is paint, since it protects best against UV. If using paint, oil-based or epoxy is the most durable. Have the store mix in ~ 1/3 - 1/2 cup of clean sand. It will add a bit of grip to the finish. Put on at least 2 coats, ideally 3, then let the paint fully dry (takes about 7 days depending on humidity) before using the trailer. If you’re storing your trailer out of the weather, you could also use an oil-based stain to get a more natural finish. Stain won’t be as durable/ long-lasting as paint. You should reapply stain every 2 years for maximum protection. If using stain, skip the sand, since it won’t stick like it does when using paint.
As far as airbags, it can be fairly straight forward. You can get ones that you fill manually, which lets you not need an air compressor, lines, or tank, but you have to be near the shop to fill them up for towing. If you're driving empty most people air down. If that's too inconvenient there's tons of kits out there, but it takes some time to install.
To seal the wood decks I do what the old farmers do, spray used engine oil, not synthetic or brake fluid. Their wood beds would last until they stopped spraying them. Air bags are great. They have come a long way in the past 20 years. Even the auto level and air compressors are so much better. DYI just order the correct kit for your application, calling the dealer is best to get exactly what you need. If you follow how the flatbed truckers do to safely hook their straps you don't need the extra weight of the extra steel to hook to. Tires are very important. You get what you pay for. If you blow a tire and don't catch it you can burn down your trailer and your load. Great explaining your questions and showing your options.
I simply use used motor oil after they dry out for about 3 months. I apply at least 3 coats and re-apply an additional two coats every other year. Currently have a 38'+5' dovetail gooseneck flatbed, a 53' enclosed "race" trailer w/ living quarters and a 24' 18.5k dump trailer. I have had MANY trailers for SO many different things over the years, probably like 20 or so. I have always used old motoroil. Just make sure you re-apply every other year and you shouldn't ever have any issues with your wood deck. Good luck!
I decided to put air bags on my 2018 F350, as I haul a 40' 5th wheel. Best money I have spent for an upgrade to my truck. Spend the extra money and wire in the onboard compressor that can be adjusted in the cab with a remote. A lot easier if you have the built in power switches....I ran the wires thru the frame on the drivers side and wired the compressor to my #1 switch. If you are mechanically inclined you can absolutely do it yourself. I decided to go with an Air Lift System
When run my landoll trailer I use a both chain and straps. Chain holds the majority of the loads and straps are for the lighter stuff and things I dont want potentially damage. Old fire hose is a good "strap saver" or for chain around corners and paint. You can never have enough tie down locations. For the truck Firestone air bags rated for class 7 or 8 semi will be the best and longest lasting. I would go with the on board air style with cab controls, you can always use on board air to clean the cab out or inflate tires. If you want to really go crazy kelderman I believe might make a kit to replace the factory leaf springs with a 4 link air ride setup like you would see on the larger semi truck with a semi truck auto leveler.
Check out ShockStraps. Traditional straps loosen up because they slowly stretch after you tightened them up. ShockStraps have a “spring” so that when strap webbing stretches, the urethane spring keeps the strap tight. Made in the USA and used by our Armed Forces.
I use 2" ratcheting straps with a short chain with a G70 grab hook on each end for strapping mine down. I do the same thing with the stake pockets, loop it down through and over. The other thing about trailer weight is check your state laws! I live in CT and any trailer 10,000lb or more requires an endorsement, YES a CDL endorsement. Campers are exempt but manufactures make a 9,990lb trailer for those areas for that reason
@@TheMatthewKline I've had a few friends that didn't know either and had to change plans! The old licenses actually had it written on the back. But of you look up the wonderful trailer law's for CT, you'll find out quick how stupid they are
Much like paying for better tires, you won't regret getting air bags. The ride is greatly improved! Also I hook my straps the way you do. My brother drives a semi and he said that's the way he was shown to do it as well. Having gravity hold the hook down just makes sense to me.
On the spring issue. Go find a spring shop and show them your problem. Let them upgrade your spring capacity. try to stay away from air bags they tend to have some issues and maintenance to deal with.
I had the Firestone air bags installed on a truck I used to have. They worked great to level heavy loads. If you want to air them manually they are fairly inexpensive. If you add on board air, then thats more money. You may want to consider on board air considering your business. You will use it more than you might think. Being able to air up in the woods or on a delivery from the truck is nice plus using your air bags! I too had blowouts on cheap stock trailer tires on my 5th wheel. I upgraded and zero problems since. As always, thanks for always trying to help us make better decisions. Chris
I've been shopping for a trailer - this video was very helpful! Thank you for all these tips - and for showing us the cost of your trailer. I have a Ram 2500 with factory air suspension ($1,705). I never knew what I was missing before - the auto-leveling and 'squat' feature is crazy helpful. Glad to know about the priming option with the trailers - really hate the fact that most trailers look used at the point of sale. Your trailer looks great! Thanks again for all the good info.
Get hooks with a safety latch for attachment to your d-rings. Same experience as others with Firestone air bags, no problems after 10 years. Truck never looks overloaded.
I've been doing a lot of research on this topic. The best answer I've gotten was to use very heavy duty straps with hooks that have snaps so they don't come off. I trailer my Jeep, so I don't want it sliding off. Watch the TV show on the weather channel called "Highway from Hell"; it's about tow truck operators and how they recover trucks and trailers from accidents or weather issues. Very informative and you can get better ideas about fastening your equipment so you are safe!
I did not see it mentioned but when I replaced my wood deck trailer, I gave each 2x10 3 coats with copper green and every 3-4 years I roll another coat on the wood. I like the green tint with the white trailer. I have had over 8 years of good service, from the coast of California to the mountains of Colorado. I have air-rite Goodyear 7500 bags on my 3500 and it is nice when the gooseneck has a load greater than 4k but it does make for a harder ride empty and this is my daily driver.
Boiled Linseed Oil. I have used it for years. Trailers, shovel handles, any wood that is exposed to the elements. The trailer will rust away and the wood will still be good.
That's exactly what I have found to work. I cut the boiled linseed with about a 50% add of mineral spirits. The spirits make it suck right down deep and help it to dry quickly.
@@TYMWLTL hadn't thought about cutting it, might give it a try thanks for the tip. My last maintenance coating I got some mistinted deck sealer @ Lowes marked down 1/2 price.
I like your trailer, and think it will give you many years of good service. I definitely recommend air bags, they're worth what you pay for them. I only use chains when hauling any type of equipment, straps are to easy to get cut. Each corner of the tractor should be tied down. I have seen some people run one chain from side to side and tie it to the draw bar. that's very wrong.
As for the air bags question and other options. My F250 has the camper package with the extra over load spring, my dad has the same truck without the overloads. His truck would squat down a lot more with a load. I found some rubber cushions that go in place of the bump stops. They only hit with a load so empty ride quality is the same. Works great and I also have a set on a 1993 Dodge with a tool bed. Easy to install and functions great!
I have all steel trailers with paint. The next one I buy will be gooseneck rated for a lot more coated with a bed liner of some sort. I grew up with tail pullers as well most of witch home made without working trailer brakes. More exciting scares than profitable hauls. After having to purchase new lumber for many years on my father's car trailer he decided to cut down one of his big ash trees. We milled it down and treat with used motor oil. This was many years ago. So far so good.
Ive had the Ride Rite Firestone air bags on my Ram 3500 4x4 truck for 3 yrs with no issues, I installed myself in a couple of hours and just have the manual air valve at my bumper to raise/lower and set air pressure, I’ll never have another truck without air bags it improves the ride and handling when hauling loads like u wouldn’t believe.
I second the Marine Grade Penofin, it’s wonderful stuff! Just remember to remove your boards and seal all six sides of each board, no matter which product you choose. Growing up, we always used BLO and turpentine at a 50/50 mix. Our horse trailers always had 1/4 sawn white oak with this mix. We removed the boards yearly and treated after we saw some Palominos go through the floor on the freeway. I’ve used Thompson’s and have never been really impressed much at all. If it was a choice between Thompson’s and the BLO mix, I’d stick with the BLO. When soaking your ends, the US forestry service did a study and a 3 minute soak is all it takes. The old type of treated lumber lasted much, much longer and folks can still get it with certain Ag license, I forget which one but you’d have to find a supplier in your area. For rusted metal, I’ve had excellent results with Rustoleum Rust Restorer, for the stuff that’s out in the field or too thick to really clean down to bare metal. (Also read some research on that product done by the Forestry Department.)
Good info thanks. You can consider treating the boards like the old timer farmers did on fencing, diesel and oil. You can spray it on with tank sprayer.
Appreciate your humility! I’ve been researching trailers for a while. I have a 2016 ram 2500 cummins. First diesel. Yay! Looking for my first gooseneck flat top. DiamondC are nice. Great video! Thanks! Safety first.
I have always used motor oil to treat boards. That’s how many farmers have treated hay wagons for years. The only down side is that it is a little slick for a couple weeks especially when it rains.
Not sure about a trailer deck, but I have used motor oil on maple fence posts I made from tree's on our place, and use linseed oil for raised veggie garden beds and for 15 plus years on our outdoor dining table and garden benches. I think a couple of coats of linseed oil a day apart would be great. I apply the oils with a 3 inch paint roller.
I got a hitch place in Apex, NC to install manual air bags on my F-150. I love them. I did have a leak on the passenger side but I tightened the connection and it works great. I recommend something to lower to squat. There are also overload springs that can be installed as well from a hitch place. Good luck!
Definitely recommend Firestone air bags. I run them on my 2500 dodge and it's a night and day difference when towing. Easy install. I've had no issues with them
I have had air bags on my 2012 F350 for 8 years with no issues. I use them primarily with my truck camper but also use them when I pull my L3200. I have stained the bed twice since 2015 when I got the trailer. I use TWP-1500 stain which i the same stain I use on my decks. Has worked fine for the last 5 years.
I had a car hauler years ago. I also had a stair company. I went to a truck tarp company and had a custom sized rack and tarp kit made to fit. Its removable and light weight. I therefore had a car hauler or an enclosed trailer to haul stairs to a customers home for install. It was a very affordable option that took less than 15 minutes in my case to install.
I use air lifter remote and compressor 7500 xl on my 2019 3500 dually and rides like a dream. Level your truck out for better wear on your tires as well as better steering bc it brings the front back down.
If you're going with single tires, go with 17.5s. you can get 18 ply I believe is heaviest. I like chains, and chain anchor straps. There are times we use traditional straps, as you shown also.
A powder job is only as good as the prep put into it. Nice to see they sandblast the frame first. The absolute best thing for a trailer is if it can be stored indoors. Just like a car, it will look better, longer. Obviously that is rarely an option for most people. second best is always park it on concrete. I see a lot of trailers backed off into the yard which the grass is then left to grow up around which attracts bugs and rodents, both of which are hard on wiring and decking. Ive had several trailers as well. Seems like the powder coat never lasts very long. I think its a combo of chains and such being banged against them and the extra road spray and rock chips from the towing vehicle. Good video as always!
I realize this is an older video, but regarding the air bags. I installed the Firestone on my 2500HD in about 2 hours. It is easy and one of the best upgrades you will make to your truck. Initially I just ran a line to the bumper so I could change the pressure with an air hose. That was fine until you don't have an air hose around. I eventually installed a small 12VDC pump and a small 4 gallon tank with controls in the cab. The only way to go. The other thing is you can add an air bib to the tank so if you need to inflate a tire you can. A larger tank would be required to run an air tool but for general things you might need while on the road, they are great. Thanks for sharing your video.
I have had a Ram 3500 with airbags and one currently without. My next one will have airbags on it. They made a difference in the ride and I liked that they leveled the truck when you had a load on. I only had one issue with them and it was with the pump, which turned out to be a quick fix.
Chain slots and load binders (rachet or over center type). Makes a nice clean deck. Epoxy paint over pressure treated wood, last for years. Good video thanks.
I pulled a 14k trailer w a (custom) 1/2 ton with adjustable saddle mount overloads springs (1.75 ton). Rides normal with unloaded. Bed dropped 1-1.5" w full load from unladen and maxed out rear 3" drum brake upgrade. 1500 mile runs.
I had good luck with Rustoleum industrial enamel on a wood deck trailer. We had it leftover from a job (it's intended for metal) and decided to try it. The wood lasted 20+ years until it finally rotted from below. The top was still 90+% painted when we replaced it. The (now over 30yr old) trailer now sports pressure treat with barn red solid stain (same story, it was setting around, so on it went). I can't say as I would spend the big money for rustoleum if I needed a deck finish for a nice new 13k trailer, but I probably would, knowing it's past durability. It looks great as well - mine happened to be a light blue metallic and it looked great on the blue frame trailer. If I did it again, I would make sure the bottom gets painted as well, at least with undercoat or a good waterproof sealer. I believe you could see 30+ years with a rustoluem painted deck if the bottom were treated, my mistake was leaving it bare, and the bottom gets a fair amount of weathering, if not the UV and physical wear. Good video. Looking for a tractor hauler myself, waiting for a used one to find me...
Airbags are the best thing I ever done to my truck. I’m using maxxair 5000 bags on my f250 single rear wheel. I have a 28 foot gooseneck and haul a lot of hay and farming equipment. As for the ratchet straps I found this summer that ratchet straps are perfectly fine for strapping heavy equipment. I flipped my truck after being ran out of the road. I was hauling my Kubota 7040 on my gooseneck and had hay and my round baler on the trailer. When I flipped it back on its wheels everything was exactly how it was before flipping. I run one strap through the front wheels and one strap through the rear wheels pulling in opposite directions. One strap across the front end loader arms and one strap on each side of the baler. The front of the baler is hooked to the tractor. I was satisfied to see that everything had stayed in place after the worst possible thing had happened.
RickyBobby….. I've used the hook style but I learned to understand the limitations. The ratchet straps do stretch a little bit in the first few miles of travel. When the stretch occurs, the hook may slip off, which means your tractor or whatever is no longer attached. You are better off with straps which have a chain type hook with a snap so it will stay in place. I've had the hook type come undone so it's always a good idea to know if the strap is still attached and will stay attached.
I am a cabinet maker by trade and I personally haven't found any product yet that works good for wooden beds. I am over here in WI so basically the same climate as you. Unless you have the ability to store your trailer inside I think our weather goes from one extreme to another to much for most products. I think maybe if you have the ability to find the time to put a coat on every year you can probably make any of the products work, but again if you don't have a place to pull your trailer into find a window of time to put a new coat on every year sucks. Also just FYI that style of hook that you like is called a flat hook, the wire style you don't like that is what a J hook is.
Featherlite out of Iowa, Best ever including 10 year warranty with .040 aluminum skin. Best dump, flat bed, etc is MIDSOTA out of Avon MN, great trailers!!
Just found this video and your channel. WHAT A GREAT VIDEO! Love your no-nonsense, unbiased information and approach. Comments are LOADED with great info, too - awesome subscribers here. We are prepping and loading for a huge move from Vegas to Ohio, and then eventually Tennessee to start a new life. If what I read down there is correct, I hope to see you in Tennessee =) Thumbs up and subbed.
I made some short 2-3' HD chain adapters (grade 70?) with a standard grab hook on one end and a clevis on the other. You can then drop the grab hook end down through the stake pocket, bring it back up around the pocket, and let the hook drop back down onto the pocket. That gives you the "gravity assist" to keep the chain in place on the pocket. The clevis end of the chain can be used to connect a j-hook, wire-hook, or snap-hook ratchet strap, or whatever else you can think of to attach with a clevis at the end of the chain. 'Course, that was before I knew about those handy dandy stake pocket D-ring adapters you mentioned!
Air bags will NOT improve the ride in the sense that it will make it ride more rough(stiff). It will however level your truck/trailer/load which means it will TOW better, and you will have fewer problems with the trailer dragging going over uneven surfaces, etc. I would suggest NOT installing them your self. Most of the custom shops sell them at an installed price that is hard to beat. I had 3000' air bags installed with an on-board compressor and bluetooth remote for $1,200.00 and the same shop sold them uninstalled for like $1,000.00. I did find the parts on Amazon for under $1,000.00, but i figured even spending $400.00 was well worth it for me as some guys in the reviews said it took them an entire weekend to get everything installed. The brand I went with is Air Lift. Good luck!
2.5 million miles of long haul Trucking. These are my five top suggestions.
1. Deck top and bottom mop on used motor oil use a paint roller. Keeps all the equipment you haul from dripping oil stains. Never let it weather.
2. Air bags that you have to inflate and check with a gauge on the truck . Not self balancing one's.
3. Swing wide
4. Grease hitches and bearings regularly. If you can't remember when you did it last do it NOW.
5. Know before you go !
Know the height, width, tire pressure, pins locked, load securely tied down, and that your well rested. And if I were to add a sixth it would be G.O.A.L get out and look before you back. Stay safe.
Great information sir, thanks for taking the time to share!
Owned a small trucking company for 25 years. 100% of new hires experienced or not looked at me puzzled when I told them to use the GOAL method. Good advice there people.
GOAL means go completely around the entire rig and actually look & think not just walk back & then return to driver seat.
COMPLETE 360 all the way around the rig!
As an old flat bedder in a big rig and a guy that hauls his 4320 around the area with a pick-up I had to watch this twice to take notes. Nothing I say is in malice, just experience and I love your channel. 1: if running singles then go to a tri-axle to balance the load. (takes weight off the drives and center the engine close to the trailer axles). 2: used oil is your friend, had a 60 year old manure spreader that had the original floor and sold it 20 years ago and still the same floor to this day!. 3: No cheap Chinese tires, you get what you pay for, along with west Nile Mosquitoes. 4: Chains rule. Used to haul New Holland Tractors from Baltimore into Canada. 80hp and 3 at a time. Shop rags under chains saves the paint. Straps are for lumber or drywall. 5: Rub rail, is just that. Not a tie down. Stake pockets are with chains. D rings are preferred and the slide in ones you have are the cats ass! Wish I had that option. 6: 8 D rings at $360 a bit expensive. Look at the diameter of the quick drop D's vs the welded D's. 7: If you truck needs airbags then you need a bigger truck, simple as that. Once you add aftermarket bags to a factory suspension, you disrupt the spring rate and pinion angle on rebound and now are wearing out U joints and drive shafts are skidding down the highway. Just my two Loonies as two cents don't go too far these days. Cudos
I'm in Arizona, to seal the lumber we use used motor oil. Doesn't cost a thing. I've got 15 year old trailers and the lumber is prefect.
That's great advice!! Been wondering what to use and didn't wanna fork out the bucks for sealers. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Troy. Just saved me bunch of money!! God bless you, sir.
I highly appreciate the “Sealing the trailer boards with motor oil” comment, as well! Superb! First-time owner of a heavy equipment trailer here. I bought it last year, and I just want to make sure it is good years and years down the road. Again, thank you!
3 quarts of diesel and 1 quart of automatic transmission fluid in a 1 gallon pump sprayer, repeat as needed.
Does the motor oil not make it slippery when wet?
@@Tomn2hdit soaks in
I put used motor oil on all my outdoor stuff. You need to re-apply it every year.
I like the color it adds and it’s free. Which is a plus.
Do the same with my trailer deck. 50/50 oil and diesel fuel. Last more than a year here. I prob don't load more than 50 times a year tho. Other than that I try to keep it under roof.
Strong dump trailers offer the best of both worlds. Moving machinery and carrying a lot of materials serving dual purpose. Our contractors switched from open carry to dumps and have never regretted the change. 2500 Ram with Cummins diesel helps.
From a guy that spent years pulling a flat bed tractor and trailer.
First have a twist in your straps. That stops them from flapping in the wind.
Don't cross or "X" your straps. If one strap breaks you really loose both.
Check them for tightness often. Specially within the first few miles.
And my fav, you really can't use too many straps and that spreads the load, reduces damage.
Chains would be best for what you are hauling. But you have weight to consider and damage to paint etc.
As for the deck, they're pressure treated boards; replace before you fall through.
Black Hawk International Security you hit it square on the head. Great advice
Thanks for sharing sir, great advice!
+1 for what he said.
Black Hawk International Security thanks for the tip. I’ve been making an X with my straps for loads in the bed of my truck for years. Never realized that’s not the optimum way of doing it. I’ll discontinue that practice right away. So glad I read your comment.
@@davidr3246 That one I learned the hard way. With the "X" you got one pulling across to the other side. Then you have the other one pulling against it. If one breaks or comes unhooked, the other strap doesn't have anything to counter it.
Next time try this. When you're crossing it out, as your tightening down the first strap, watch your load shift. Then imagine the other strap has broken and you're going into a curve that is worse than you thought. If the strap is pulling the right direction you're good. If it's not, then you have a strap helping the load come off.
Be safe
Look into super springs for your tow rig. With air you need an air source. Super springs are added to the leaf pack. I have them on my tow rig and will never go back to airbags.
I second that, and they pick up the extra weight. So unloaded they don’t affect the ride.
Airbags ride much nicer, yes you need to manually inflate them but the ride quality is great
Treat your wooden decks with Linseed oil and Turpentine mixed 50 /50. You can use in on fences, and concrete too. To apply you can spray, roll, brush . I've been in the Ready mix business for 30 yrs now this is the best sealer I have ever used. Grampa taught me this many years ago.
I use a 60% turps and boiled linseed mix for the first coat and 40%turps 60%linseed for the final coats. I believe it penetrates further dries faster and lasts longer. Apply coats add long as the wood is absorbing it. And your done!
There was an extensive study done in Canada on concrete with boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. It out performed ALL the super expensive sealers. Some things are right in front of us and we never see them.
@@TYMWLTL Been in the manufacture and delivery of Concrete for 30 yrs now. Never have a problem, and people love the fact they can use it on their wood decks, fences, trailer decks as well.
My trailer tires are only 6 ply and my toilet paper is only 2 ply! Something seems backwards here...🤔
Great information on trailers though! Thanks for taking the time to do it.
I have installed air bags on two of my Ram trucks and I would not tow without them. My third Ram came with factory air bags and they are awesome.
I would recommend getting an on board air compressor with the wireless control system. That gives you more adjustability for the different weights you will be hauling.
For deck treatment I use a sealer that comes with a color tint to it. I prefer the dark red color. You dont see that very often on trailer decks and it makes the deck look really custom.
I have cut old firehose in half to place as a barrier between a tractor and the tie down chains. Keeps paint from taking a hit, but the added security of chain binders.
I run a nonprofit equine therapy program for kids and adults with disabilities and AirLift is one of our sponsors. They sent us 7500 pound airbags, compressor and remote for our 2017 f250, we absolutely love it. We run four different trailers from horse trailers, enclosed trailers to flatbeds and the bags are a must and the ride is amazing.
Wow, awesome!
On an equipment hauler 24' and over, always pay the extra and get tandem duels and higher capacity axles.. Not that much higher but 200 times safer and more useful.
Trailer weight then goes way up. Quality tires and the tools to change a flat on the road is all you need.
Listen to this guy if you are looking for a trailer for a Tractor. I have a Branson full frame 40 hp tractor and with brush hog and front end bucket it is 19 feet 7 inches. I just purchased my fourth trailer. Finally got a 32 foot gooseneck..
If you don't have D rings on your trailer then I would consider the stake pocket D rings. I moved a car on a flatbed trailer on a trip of over 2K miles. When I stopped to fuel up I went back to check the trailer and found that one of the straps I had used to secure the car had almost abraded through as it was rubbing on the rail. The J hook would not fit down trough the stake pocket so I had to attach it from the outside. I didn't know about stake pocket D rings. The bottom line is you don't want any part of the strap rubbing on any metal anywhere.
I have air bags on my F250 Superduty diesel truck and use them to level out when hauling my 28' goose neck 5th wheel. They work great and not had any trouble with them in the 8 years they have been installed.
You did a great job on this video. You covered a lot of ground, and I especially appreciate sharing your experiences. As for keeping paint looking fresh, try to keep them shedded. But even your PJ paint will dull and fade. No getting around that unless you understand why cars and trucks do not show weathering as fast. The difference is in the coat exposed to the weather - Clear Coat over your final paint layer keeps the UV rays under control. If you want to fix up your faded enclosed trailer neck, repaint then add Clear Coat.
I made my trailer, tires were same as my tow vehicle (235-85-16 with 16x7 rims on 6.5" 8 lug single). Decking (full width, 16') is pressure treated full length lumber, just pressure washed, and reapply Thompson water seal, same as my deck at home. I needed a trailer to haul my tow truck, and now use it to haul my tractor. 6 Roblees for spring hangers, lights etc, chopped dana 60 axles, surge brakes, and a hand brake on the tongue. Have fun
Boiled linseed oil. First application you can thin with mineral spirits for deeper penetrate. Then follow up with a second application with a less thin down or not thin down at all. Remember to becareful with your rags as they can catch fire. I've used used motor oil for protecting wood. It's works well and has a good price tag.
Helper Leaf Springs. Air bags can blow out if over loaded and they have to be aired up.
I've fabricated custom gooseneck & pull-b-hind trailers for 47 years. When the customer want's wood decking instead of steel, I've tried many different finish's. What I have found to work the best (Hands Down) is one part "Boiled Linseed Oil" mixed with 3 parts "Rust-O-leum" paint. (What ever color the trailer is painted). The Boiled linseed oil lets the paint go on extremely easy and penetrates the deep into the wood. Lasts year's and look's great. also not as slippery as straight paint on the deck.
Have you tried the used motor oil? I hear about it often
Finally someone mentioning to use thinned paint. I have done this to wood used outside and it has outlasted 'ground contact' pressure treated wood. Usually do a more 50/50 mix and at least 2 coats. Looks like a semi-transparent stain, but lasts forever. Best part is if you want a solid color, you just paint on a final unthinned coat.
To treat my trailer deck i used Thompsons Timber Oil (clear or natural ). I f your trailer is new wait 6 months for the treated lumber to dry out. Then apply with a roller or paint pad. It is a wood preservative so it will absorb into the deck and not be greasy, slick or attract dirt after it drys. It's a bit expensive but it will last for years.
OK I have owned many trailers also. I'm up in the North East where there is lots of bad weather in all four seasons. I found after many decks of all kinds of wood both soft woods and hard woods that a mixture of boiled linseed oil with mineral spirits mixed 50/50 is economical. It soaks in beautifully. It dries to touch (because that is what the mineral spirits does to linseed oil). You mix up five gallons and you can get up on the deck with a big soft roller and coat the deck quickly. By the time you work your way to the end you can start over on a second coat. Depending on your wood type you might see it soak in enough for a quick third coat. You'll figure that out. I try to do it in warm weather every other year or three. It will turn your deck dark almost black but anything I can do to get ten years or better out of a deck is cheap in my book. I hate tearing off old decks and putting new wood on trailers. And old guy told me this and now I,m old and telling you. Boiled linseed oil in 5 gallon pail and 5 gallons of mineral spirits will do a twenty footer twice. That's six years and a perfectly sealed no slip deck. God bless America.
Very cool, thank you for taking the time to share!
Used diesel oil cut with diesel fuel. 1to1 ratio. Works wonders. Have a trailer with boards that are 20 years old still look perfect
Used motor oil on all my wood deck trailer, my 1991 Landscapping still has original 2x10s that are solid. Also all of my trailers are stored outside year around with coating there decks every 3 to 5 years. Thanks for the videos
I have a half ton pickup and pull a 24 ft 5th wheel camper. I put air bags on and love them. It levels out the pickup and smoothes out the bumps. They make kits specific to your truck and can install them yourself.
Nice, thank you for sharing!
I use Firestone airbags that are specific for a vehicle. I order them from SD Springs, (South Dakota Springs) as a kit. They are a couple hour job to install yourself. I drive Ram trucks with Cummins for towing. Even though the kits are advertised as NO DRILL, I have found that you still need to do some minor drilling and may have to move a shock to get the drill and bolts aligned. I inflate each bag separately rather than in a T with one line for inflation. I have never had a problem with the Firestone Bags going back at least 12 years.
Thanks so much for sharing Gary!
Firestone was going to be my recommendation too. Also look into the on-board air compressor. You can use it to air up tires and run small air tools if necessary. I get my stuff from Summit Racing Equipment out of Akron, Ohio but, Firestone kits are widely available.
Im a professional painter and what I would suggest for sealing your deck is this. 1. Use Benjamin Moore Deck Cleaner/Stipper (radish-pink label) to clean and open the wood pores. 2. Use Benjamin Moore Deck Brightener (yellowish-white label) to neutralize the chemicals and pressure treatment chemicals of the wood. 3. Use a Stain Product called "Ready Seal" to stain/seal the wood in whichever color you choose. These are the only products I use from BM because they are very good for decks. Other than that, I'm a Sherwin Williams man.
Thanks for sharing your lessons learned. I've done the same thing and it sometimes feels like throwing money away until you find the right combination for your needs. But, I'm with you on keeping the "not quite rights" because they are a tool. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it!
I will be shopping for a bigger trailer soon. Great advice. Regarding air bags, I decided not to do it. I added a leaf spring on one of my F250's and it made a huge difference and did not effect the handling at all. Great video!
Use deck sealer throw some beach sand down when still wet paint. Adds a little grip.
I don't use nylon straps. Almost dumped a Cushman utility truck in the middle of Pioneer Parkway.during rush hour after a nylon straps got cut and ripped. Fortunately a single safety chain prevented disaster. Have used chains ever since. Really like PJ Trailers. Have also had them all. Try used diesel engine oil strained to remove metal particles and diluted with diesel fuel. Ranchers in Texas use it on their wood fences with great success. I'm one of them.
Used motor oil with diesel half/half in a sprayer. I've got farm equipment that is in its 4th generation of use with original wood and metal. Don't try to soak it just a light mist after every wash or clean up.
Exactly... Works like a champ!
I have had three trucks myself that I have put air bags on. They are a great way to make your truck handle a load a lot better than stock. Takes the sag out. I have installed at least ten sets on other vehicles. They are easy to put on, but I will say if your pocket book can handle it get the cab controls and on board air system. I always use Firestone ride rite set ups. Never had any problems with them. Iam a logger from northern California, I put my truck through it. I sell firewood in the winter, I deliver a cord at a time on my truck and the bags have never let me down.
I use old motor oil on our trailers which work really well but the downside is, the oil will darken your boards up quite a bit and you lose the look of your bright beautiful boards. Using mine on the farm I don't care what they look like but for hauling customers' equipment you might want to check into something else. Great video...
Seems like using oil motor oil is pretty common?
Yes it is, can't beat the price number one and it really does work well. Just doesn't keep boards looking nice.
I used stain. Trailer stored under roof. Undercoated with fluid film. Appalachian gooseneck. 20,000#. Tandem Singles with 14 ply as you have.
Ratchet straps may not be legal for certain loads as I understand. I purchased ratchet binders and chains rated for more than my load. You are better off over doing vs undergoing this...especially if something bad happens. Thanks for the video!
Really enjoyed watching your video. So, I have a 2015 bought new BigTex 40 foot GN22 with tandem duals and hydraulic dovetail. I love it, I have a kubota m7040 with fel and a batwing rc2512 mower. Never had any issues as of yet. As far as the deck, I have not treated it at all. The price and time to treat it verses every 10 years to replace the wood as needed evens out. Don't use old oil, seems good but no, eventually the oil seems out and if the wrong DOT cop checks you out and see it, it goes down hill fast. ..... The D rings sounds good idea but just use a chain with ratchet binder thru the chain spools. As far as chain marking up equipment, just slide an old fire hose over the chain and no issues at all. The hose is tough and follows the chain in any direction it goes. Also, when DOT passes you and see gold chain they know you are good to go. Straps can rub and tear in the long run. ...... Good looking trailer over all. I live in Florida so no rust really on my trailer yet. Little fading but it lives outside. ....... I have sides as needed as well. Best way I've found is use the stake pockets and use a steel channel with a stop welded in it and 2x4 wood for the horizontal pieces. ......... Never had wire issues yet either on mine. Warning lights on rear is a great idea as well. I ran a 14 gauge extension cord, cut off both ends, ran one end to the warning lights in rear, other end to a 2 way flat plug to a matching plug on truck to a switch. Works awesome!! Use it when you want and off when you don't need it. ..... I pull it with a 3500 silverado crew cab and can't see hitch either when hooking up. Make a C out of 2x4 and place it just cab side of the gooseneck ball, when backing up radio and ac off and windows down, when you hear the wood knock over, your there. Hooks up first time every time. ..... I have battery for hydraulic dove tail so powers winch as well. Get a solor charger and will always be ready to go.
Hey what do you mean make a c with a2x4?
All great responses and comments to a good trailer video review. Several additional thoughts from my personal trailering experiences. I either prefer a triple axle trailer with premium tires underneath or twin axle dually to ensure I’ve got more than sufficient trailering capabilities with the loads I know I’ll be hauling. Like the idea of movable d-ring stake pockets over numerous welded fixed d-rings that seldom ever align correctly with where you end up placing the load on the trailer. Would suggest getting the trailer deck and front end treated with Line X box liner. It adds additional cost to the trailer, but stuff is virtually indestructible and protects wood from ever rotting, trailer front end from rock chips, and added grip getting on and off the trailer. Lastly prefer a dually truck with good quality airbags for adjustable ride each time with specific cargo you’re planning to hall.
Thanks for the good additions!
We always use oil to seal trailers on the farm but if your worried about it discoloring the boards, we have used old hydraulic oil that we have drained out of equipment as well. Works just as good but doesn’t darken the wood, and chances are if you do any service work on them before resale you have plenty around taking up space
Hello Courtney I like your videos because they are always informative and honest. Not alot of guys would be that upfront about their bad purchases. I use diesel fuel and used motor oil solution in a garden sprayer I spray the top and underside once a year. It takes 15 minutes. The wood soaks it right in and doesn't leave my deck slippery.
I have been using clean unused motor oil on wood trailer and wagen beds, and wooden fences for over 40 years, works great. On new treated wood, wait one year then apply. I slop it on with a big brush.
Great video. I like the stake pocket D-Rings. Appreciate you sharing lessons learned. For the wood, farmers have been using used motor oil for ages. You can cut it with little diesel if you want, if the wood is dry, it will drink. Doing something as often as the wood needs it is key. I've also used regular deck stain. Over 15 years with original wood on my wood deck trailer stored mostly in the open. I think storing it under a tree or in a shaded area gives you other issues with mold, moss etc. A light pressure washing before helps with even application.
Started using used motor oil with my current trailer. So far I like it. Yeah discolored the wood, but no more “oil stain” spots from something leaking. Yes, it’s messy at first but after a few months of it soaking in, it’s like a tongue oil. Only way I wouldn’t use it now is if I had a purple heartwood deck.
For a little more rust protection on the top side of the trailer they sell clear vinyl in rolls that can be cut and stuck on around areas that get sprayed with rocks/grit, road salt, and sand from the tires. Say the front lower part of the trailer.. As well as they help a lot with around the wheel wells on the truck too, preventing paint chips. As for the underbelly of the trailer(and truck), if its pristine and clean with not a spec of dust on it you can apply (LPS 3) out of any regular automotive paint gun, spray everything on the underside its a 2 year coating for external parts, and your Ford truck actually comes with LPS 3 inside the doors from the factory its a great product.. Another one is Fluid film, but alot of dirt and debris sticks to it, and its a 6 month coating but protects and absorbs into already rusty surfaces very well.. once you put it on it freezes the metal in time. I love both products, both of them are environmentally friendly/made in the USA/ and do not harm rubber bushings or electrical. Wich brings me to the FINAL product, (LPS 1) is excellent for protection electrical, it displaces water just like WD40 but doesnt leave a sticky or wet residue. In fact its so good people use LPS 1 as a gun lubricant/ rust preventative as it will NOT allow any water inside anything it is sprayed on. Applicators are as follows: (LPS 1 in a spray can/ LPS 3 in a 1 gallon can, sprayed from paint gun/ Fluid film in 1 gallon paint can, sprayed with a fluid film specific spray gun) this is coming from years and years of testing 100's of differn't products including the famous POR 15 and martin senour paints/conversion coatings/rubber coatings/truck bed liners/etc etc etc... What I've found is fluid film/LPS 3/ vinyl wrap is the best way to protect equiptment/vehicls/trailers by far. I will never bother with paint/undercoat again after the results I've seen with those products. They are the best of the best.
I've used the Timbren SES on all my trucks from pickups,NPRs,LCWs W4,international ramp truck and box trucks. They are super easy to install and the trucks never look like you may be running heavy. The engineer's at Timbren were really helpful for some custom needs I had on a cutaway chevy I lifted a bit.
I have some on the way and am very much looking forward to trying them out. I've only ever heard positive things about them.
Use chains and as far as the paint get some old fire hose to cover the chains where the chains contact the paint
When purchasing a trailer, if your using it frequently, don't ever expect it to be your one an only trailer. As mentioned, what seems good at first, while still fine for most things, can not always meet your needs. Getting a large gooseneck trailer is a great purchase, but there will be times when a small single axle tag trailer often times is all that's needed. It's nice to own several sizes! I have several, and still find that I need one more style.
I like using web straps, for items less than around 2000 lbs. Anything over that, I use chains. I like the extra safety, and more importantly, it will hopefully minimize second looks from local law enforcement, even when the straps are withing their load rating.
Thanks for the information on the D-Ring stake pocket assembly. Haven't seen them before!!
I wish I had a trailer for each individual thing I do. lol My single most used trailer is a 16 foot tandem utility trailer. Light and small and can haul a few pieces of lumber to a fairly big compact tractor with loaded tires. I also prefer ratchet straps. 4 inch are my usual go to straps. About 5,500 pound work load strength and 20,000 pound rating before they break. Four of them work good on a piece of equipment up to around 15,000 pounds. Good point on the law taking notice though. A chain is a chain but they can't tell if you have "good" straps or not without stopping you to look. Haven't been stopped before though.
Thank you. New RAM 2500 4x4 crew cab long bed diesel with gooseneck in the bed. I don't tow more than 6 times per year but I'm done worrying about whether I'm overloaded with my previous setup. I'll buy a gooseneck flatbed in the next month or two to be ready for a couple of long hauls. I like your confirmation that the gooseneck setup is more comfortable to tow than a bumper pull. I assumed that was the case when I bought my truck so now I'm ready. My next decision is 26 or 32 ft trailer.
My trailer combination that works for me, owning a small construction company, is a 16' enclosed trailer with ramp door and 6 lug axles. A 20' flat bed equipment trailer with manual ramps and 7k axles and 16 ply tires, and lastly a 24' gn deck over trailer with 7k axles and 16 ply tires. Pop up dove tail with pull out ramps. The enclosed is great for a job trailer and hauling loose items and not worry about the wind or weather. The gn is great for material hauling. The bumper pull equipment trailer is great for hauling skid steer and mini excavator. The gn is a titan at 28 years old. The enclosed is a pace at 20 years old. The BP is a maxxed at 5 years old.
Firestone makes Ride Rite air bag kits for about $400 for the new SD trucks. Takes about 3 hours to install. I have put them in the last 4 trucks and have never had an issue.
Make sure you remove your spare tire First, before you start your install. You will need the room to get up in there!
Air bags - I have 5,000 lbs Firestone Ride-Rite air bags on my 2005 Ford F350 and they are the best. I have been using them for 10 years without an issue. I have the on-board air compressor and manual controller. I tow a 40' 5th wheel and the bag help with everything from rear end sagging to rear end bounce. Its an easy install.
Thanks for sharing!
Though I’m a subscriber, I’m just now getting to this video. Answers to your questions about treating your trailer decking. Yes, you should wait a few months to apply any topcoat to pressure treated lumber so that the chemicals can properly dry. You’ll know they’re ready when the boards turn slightly gray. My recommended topcoat is paint, since it protects best against UV. If using paint, oil-based or epoxy is the most durable. Have the store mix in ~ 1/3 - 1/2 cup of clean sand. It will add a bit of grip to the finish. Put on at least 2 coats, ideally 3, then let the paint fully dry (takes about 7 days depending on humidity) before using the trailer. If you’re storing your trailer out of the weather, you could also use an oil-based stain to get a more natural finish. Stain won’t be as durable/ long-lasting as paint. You should reapply stain every 2 years for maximum protection. If using stain, skip the sand, since it won’t stick like it does when using paint.
As far as airbags, it can be fairly straight forward. You can get ones that you fill manually, which lets you not need an air compressor, lines, or tank, but you have to be near the shop to fill them up for towing. If you're driving empty most people air down. If that's too inconvenient there's tons of kits out there, but it takes some time to install.
To seal the wood decks I do what the old farmers do, spray used engine oil, not synthetic or brake fluid. Their wood beds would last until they stopped spraying them.
Air bags are great. They have come a long way in the past 20 years. Even the auto level and air compressors are so much better. DYI just order the correct kit for your application, calling the dealer is best to get exactly what you need.
If you follow how the flatbed truckers do to safely hook their straps you don't need the extra weight of the extra steel to hook to.
Tires are very important. You get what you pay for. If you blow a tire and don't catch it you can burn down your trailer and your load.
Great explaining your questions and showing your options.
You did a nice job explaining your tractor experiences.
Thank you
Love the ramps had them but wait till the spring breaks it is heavy as H
I simply use used motor oil after they dry out for about 3 months. I apply at least 3 coats and re-apply an additional two coats every other year. Currently have a 38'+5' dovetail gooseneck flatbed, a 53' enclosed "race" trailer w/ living quarters and a 24' 18.5k dump trailer. I have had MANY trailers for SO many different things over the years, probably like 20 or so. I have always used old motoroil. Just make sure you re-apply every other year and you shouldn't ever have any issues with your wood deck. Good luck!
I decided to put air bags on my 2018 F350, as I haul a 40' 5th wheel. Best money I have spent for an upgrade to my truck. Spend the extra money and wire in the onboard compressor that can be adjusted in the cab with a remote. A lot easier if you have the built in power switches....I ran the wires thru the frame on the drivers side and wired the compressor to my #1 switch. If you are mechanically inclined you can absolutely do it yourself. I decided to go with an Air Lift System
When run my landoll trailer I use a both chain and straps. Chain holds the majority of the loads and straps are for the lighter stuff and things I dont want potentially damage. Old fire hose is a good "strap saver" or for chain around corners and paint. You can never have enough tie down locations. For the truck Firestone air bags rated for class 7 or 8 semi will be the best and longest lasting. I would go with the on board air style with cab controls, you can always use on board air to clean the cab out or inflate tires. If you want to really go crazy kelderman I believe might make a kit to replace the factory leaf springs with a 4 link air ride setup like you would see on the larger semi truck with a semi truck auto leveler.
Check out ShockStraps. Traditional straps loosen up because they slowly stretch after you tightened them up. ShockStraps have a “spring” so that when strap webbing stretches, the urethane spring keeps the strap tight. Made in the USA and used by our Armed Forces.
I use 2" ratcheting straps with a short chain with a G70 grab hook on each end for strapping mine down. I do the same thing with the stake pockets, loop it down through and over. The other thing about trailer weight is check your state laws! I live in CT and any trailer 10,000lb or more requires an endorsement, YES a CDL endorsement. Campers are exempt but manufactures make a 9,990lb trailer for those areas for that reason
I’m in CT and researching trailers - never knew!
@@TheMatthewKline I've had a few friends that didn't know either and had to change plans! The old licenses actually had it written on the back. But of you look up the wonderful trailer law's for CT, you'll find out quick how stupid they are
Much like paying for better tires, you won't regret getting air bags. The ride is greatly improved! Also I hook my straps the way you do. My brother drives a semi and he said that's the way he was shown to do it as well. Having gravity hold the hook down just makes sense to me.
Thanks for watching sir, good stuff!
On the spring issue. Go find a spring shop and show them your problem. Let them upgrade your spring capacity. try to stay away from air bags they tend to have some issues and maintenance to deal with.
I had the Firestone air bags installed on a truck I used to have. They worked great to level heavy loads. If you want to air them manually they are fairly inexpensive. If you add on board air, then thats more money. You may want to consider on board air considering your business. You will use it more than you might think. Being able to air up in the woods or on a delivery from the truck is nice plus using your air bags! I too had blowouts on cheap stock trailer tires on my 5th wheel. I upgraded and zero problems since. As always, thanks for always trying to help us make better decisions. Chris
Thanks for sharing and have a great day!
I've been shopping for a trailer - this video was very helpful! Thank you for all these tips - and for showing us the cost of your trailer. I have a Ram 2500 with factory air suspension ($1,705). I never knew what I was missing before - the auto-leveling and 'squat' feature is crazy helpful. Glad to know about the priming option with the trailers - really hate the fact that most trailers look used at the point of sale. Your trailer looks great! Thanks again for all the good info.
I'm in the market for a 10 to 20 ton 20ft TriAxle trailer Deck over
Get hooks with a safety latch for attachment to your d-rings. Same experience as others with Firestone air bags, no problems after 10 years. Truck never looks overloaded.
I've been doing a lot of research on this topic. The best answer I've gotten was to use very heavy duty straps with hooks that have snaps so they don't come off. I trailer my Jeep, so I don't want it sliding off. Watch the TV show on the weather channel called "Highway from Hell"; it's about tow truck operators and how they recover trucks and trailers from accidents or weather issues. Very informative and you can get better ideas about fastening your equipment so you are safe!
I did not see it mentioned but when I replaced my wood deck trailer, I gave each 2x10 3 coats with copper green and every 3-4 years I roll another coat on the wood. I like the green tint with the white trailer. I have had over 8 years of good service, from the coast of California to the mountains of Colorado.
I have air-rite Goodyear 7500 bags on my 3500 and it is nice when the gooseneck has a load greater than 4k but it does make for a harder ride empty and this is my daily driver.
Appreciate you doing this video. Very helpful. Didn’t even know the d-ring stake pockets existed.
Boiled Linseed Oil. I have used it for years. Trailers, shovel handles, any wood that is exposed to the elements. The trailer will rust away and the wood will still be good.
That's exactly what I have found to work. I cut the boiled linseed with about a 50% add of mineral spirits. The spirits make it suck right down deep and help it to dry quickly.
@@TYMWLTL hadn't thought about cutting it, might give it a try thanks for the tip.
My last maintenance coating I got some mistinted deck sealer @ Lowes marked down 1/2 price.
I like your trailer, and think it will give you many years of good service. I definitely recommend air bags, they're worth what you pay for them. I only use chains when hauling any type of equipment, straps are to easy to get cut. Each corner of the tractor should be tied down. I have seen some people run one chain from side to side and tie it to the draw bar. that's very wrong.
As for the air bags question and other options. My F250 has the camper package with the extra over load spring, my dad has the same truck without the overloads. His truck would squat down a lot more with a load. I found some rubber cushions that go in place of the bump stops. They only hit with a load so empty ride quality is the same. Works great and I also have a set on a 1993 Dodge with a tool bed. Easy to install and functions great!
Thanks for the info!
I have all steel trailers with paint. The next one I buy will be gooseneck rated for a lot more coated with a bed liner of some sort. I grew up with tail pullers as well most of witch home made without working trailer brakes. More exciting scares than profitable hauls.
After having to purchase new lumber for many years on my father's car trailer he decided to cut down one of his big ash trees. We milled it down and treat with used motor oil. This was many years ago. So far so good.
Nice, thank you for sharing!
Ive had the Ride Rite Firestone air bags on my Ram 3500 4x4 truck for 3 yrs with no issues, I installed myself in a couple of hours and just have the manual air valve at my bumper to raise/lower and set air pressure, I’ll never have another truck without air bags it improves the ride and handling when hauling loads like u wouldn’t believe.
I second the Marine Grade Penofin, it’s wonderful stuff! Just remember to remove your boards and seal all six sides of each board, no matter which product you choose. Growing up, we always used BLO and turpentine at a 50/50 mix. Our horse trailers always had 1/4 sawn white oak with this mix. We removed the boards yearly and treated after we saw some Palominos go through the floor on the freeway. I’ve used Thompson’s and have never been really impressed much at all. If it was a choice between Thompson’s and the BLO mix, I’d stick with the BLO. When soaking your ends, the US forestry service did a study and a 3 minute soak is all it takes. The old type of treated lumber lasted much, much longer and folks can still get it with certain Ag license, I forget which one but you’d have to find a supplier in your area. For rusted metal, I’ve had excellent results with Rustoleum Rust Restorer, for the stuff that’s out in the field or too thick to really clean down to bare metal. (Also read some research on that product done by the Forestry Department.)
Good info thanks. You can consider treating the boards like the old timer farmers did on fencing, diesel and oil. You can spray it on with tank sprayer.
Yeah, seems to be a very popular solution!
Appreciate your humility! I’ve been researching trailers for a while. I have a 2016 ram 2500 cummins. First diesel. Yay! Looking for my first gooseneck flat top. DiamondC are nice. Great video! Thanks! Safety first.
Jason Goble, watch “Trailer review!! Diamond C vs Gatormade😎The results” by Hotshot Haven.
I have always used motor oil to treat boards. That’s how many farmers have treated hay wagons for years. The only down side is that it is a little slick for a couple weeks especially when it rains.
And manure spreaders as well
Seems to be a popular option!
Not sure about a trailer deck, but I have used motor oil on maple fence posts I made from tree's on our place, and use linseed oil for raised veggie garden beds and for 15 plus years on our outdoor dining table and garden benches. I think a couple of coats of linseed oil a day apart would be great. I apply the oils with a 3 inch paint roller.
I got a hitch place in Apex, NC to install manual air bags on my F-150. I love them. I did have a leak on the passenger side but I tightened the connection and it works great. I recommend something to lower to squat. There are also overload springs that can be installed as well from a hitch place. Good luck!
Thanks for sharing!
Definitely recommend Firestone air bags. I run them on my 2500 dodge and it's a night and day difference when towing. Easy install. I've had no issues with them
I have had air bags on my 2012 F350 for 8 years with no issues. I use them primarily with my truck camper but also use them when I pull my L3200. I have stained the bed twice since 2015 when I got the trailer. I use TWP-1500 stain which i the same stain I use on my decks. Has worked fine for the last 5 years.
I had a car hauler years ago. I also had a stair company. I went to a truck tarp company and had a custom sized rack and tarp kit made to fit. Its removable and light weight. I therefore had a car hauler or an enclosed trailer to haul stairs to a customers home for install. It was a very affordable option that took less than 15 minutes in my case to install.
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!
Is that like the Conestoga tarps I see on 48' commercial trailers?
I use air lifter remote and compressor 7500 xl on my 2019 3500 dually and rides like a dream. Level your truck out for better wear on your tires as well as better steering bc it brings the front back down.
If you're going with single tires, go with 17.5s. you can get 18 ply I believe is heaviest. I like chains, and chain anchor straps. There are times we use traditional straps, as you shown also.
A powder job is only as good as the prep put into it. Nice to see they sandblast the frame first. The absolute best thing for a trailer is if it can be stored indoors. Just like a car, it will look better, longer. Obviously that is rarely an option for most people. second best is always park it on concrete. I see a lot of trailers backed off into the yard which the grass is then left to grow up around which attracts bugs and rodents, both of which are hard on wiring and decking. Ive had several trailers as well. Seems like the powder coat never lasts very long. I think its a combo of chains and such being banged against them and the extra road spray and rock chips from the towing vehicle. Good video as always!
I realize this is an older video, but regarding the air bags. I installed the Firestone on my 2500HD in about 2 hours. It is easy and one of the best upgrades you will make to your truck. Initially I just ran a line to the bumper so I could change the pressure with an air hose. That was fine until you don't have an air hose around. I eventually installed a small 12VDC pump and a small 4 gallon tank with controls in the cab. The only way to go. The other thing is you can add an air bib to the tank so if you need to inflate a tire you can. A larger tank would be required to run an air tool but for general things you might need while on the road, they are great. Thanks for sharing your video.
I used Thompson water seal timber oil on my gooseneck so far so good and it gave it a nice darker color
I have had a Ram 3500 with airbags and one currently without. My next one will have airbags on it. They made a difference in the ride and I liked that they leveled the truck when you had a load on. I only had one issue with them and it was with the pump, which turned out to be a quick fix.
Good to know, thanks for sharing!
As far as treating the trailer floor goes, I use used motor oil. The price can't be beat and it works great 👍
Great video. Always good to hear from someone who has tried a few things and can pass on some personal experiences.
Thank you sir!
Buying my first gooseneck trailer ,
Great video,
Thanks!
Chain slots and load binders (rachet or over center type). Makes a nice clean deck. Epoxy paint over pressure treated wood, last for years. Good video thanks.
Spotted the SS Spartan, Ludington Mi.
P.S. check out Mac’s tie down straps, they use a closed loop system that can’t come undone.
I pulled a 14k trailer w a (custom) 1/2 ton with adjustable saddle mount overloads springs (1.75 ton). Rides normal with unloaded. Bed dropped 1-1.5" w full load from unladen and maxed out rear 3" drum brake upgrade. 1500 mile runs.
I had good luck with Rustoleum industrial enamel on a wood deck trailer. We had it leftover from a job (it's intended for metal) and decided to try it. The wood lasted 20+ years until it finally rotted from below. The top was still 90+% painted when we replaced it. The (now over 30yr old) trailer now sports pressure treat with barn red solid stain (same story, it was setting around, so on it went). I can't say as I would spend the big money for rustoleum if I needed a deck finish for a nice new 13k trailer, but I probably would, knowing it's past durability. It looks great as well - mine happened to be a light blue metallic and it looked great on the blue frame trailer. If I did it again, I would make sure the bottom gets painted as well, at least with undercoat or a good waterproof sealer. I believe you could see 30+ years with a rustoluem painted deck if the bottom were treated, my mistake was leaving it bare, and the bottom gets a fair amount of weathering, if not the UV and physical wear.
Good video. Looking for a tractor hauler myself, waiting for a used one to find me...
Airbags are the best thing I ever done to my truck. I’m using maxxair 5000 bags on my f250 single rear wheel. I have a 28 foot gooseneck and haul a lot of hay and farming equipment. As for the ratchet straps I found this summer that ratchet straps are perfectly fine for strapping heavy equipment. I flipped my truck after being ran out of the road. I was hauling my Kubota 7040 on my gooseneck and had hay and my round baler on the trailer. When I flipped it back on its wheels everything was exactly how it was before flipping. I run one strap through the front wheels and one strap through the rear wheels pulling in opposite directions. One strap across the front end loader arms and one strap on each side of the baler. The front of the baler is hooked to the tractor. I was satisfied to see that everything had stayed in place after the worst possible thing had happened.
I use the heavy duty hook style. Home Depots brand has them for $9-$10 apiece. Super cheap but good quality.
Thanks for watching sir!
RickyBobby….. I've used the hook style but I learned to understand the limitations. The ratchet straps do stretch a little bit in the first few miles of travel. When the stretch occurs, the hook may slip off, which means your tractor or whatever is no longer attached. You are better off with straps which have a chain type hook with a snap so it will stay in place. I've had the hook type come undone so it's always a good idea to know if the strap is still attached and will stay attached.
I am a cabinet maker by trade and I personally haven't found any product yet that works good for wooden beds. I am over here in WI so basically the same climate as you. Unless you have the ability to store your trailer inside I think our weather goes from one extreme to another to much for most products. I think maybe if you have the ability to find the time to put a coat on every year you can probably make any of the products work, but again if you don't have a place to pull your trailer into find a window of time to put a new coat on every year sucks. Also just FYI that style of hook that you like is called a flat hook, the wire style you don't like that is what a J hook is.
Featherlite out of Iowa, Best ever including 10 year warranty with .040 aluminum skin. Best dump, flat bed, etc is MIDSOTA out of Avon MN, great trailers!!
Just found this video and your channel. WHAT A GREAT VIDEO! Love your no-nonsense, unbiased information and approach. Comments are LOADED with great info, too - awesome subscribers here. We are prepping and loading for a huge move from Vegas to Ohio, and then eventually Tennessee to start a new life. If what I read down there is correct, I hope to see you in Tennessee =) Thumbs up and subbed.
Awesome, thank you sir!
I made some short 2-3' HD chain adapters (grade 70?) with a standard grab hook on one end and a clevis on the other. You can then drop the grab hook end down through the stake pocket, bring it back up around the pocket, and let the hook drop back down onto the pocket. That gives you the "gravity assist" to keep the chain in place on the pocket. The clevis end of the chain can be used to connect a j-hook, wire-hook, or snap-hook ratchet strap, or whatever else you can think of to attach with a clevis at the end of the chain. 'Course, that was before I knew about those handy dandy stake pocket D-ring adapters you mentioned!
That's a good idea, thanks for sharing Brad!
Air bags will NOT improve the ride in the sense that it will make it ride more rough(stiff). It will however level your truck/trailer/load which means it will TOW better, and you will have fewer problems with the trailer dragging going over uneven surfaces, etc. I would suggest NOT installing them your self. Most of the custom shops sell them at an installed price that is hard to beat. I had 3000' air bags installed with an on-board compressor and bluetooth remote for $1,200.00 and the same shop sold them uninstalled for like $1,000.00. I did find the parts on Amazon for under $1,000.00, but i figured even spending $400.00 was well worth it for me as some guys in the reviews said it took them an entire weekend to get everything installed. The brand I went with is Air Lift. Good luck!