Get more info on those stake pocket D-Rings here! BUY STAKE POCKET D-RINGS HERE! amzn.to/2Ggy2Pu Plus a couple other cool tie down products as well! BUY EZ RATCHET CHAIN BINDER HERE! amzn.to/3ifhpkd or amzn.to/2EF4daK BUY TRACTOR TIE DOWNS HERE! 5% off with discount code GWT muddscustoms.com/collections/all
I looked at PJ trailers and the one bad thing everyone said was the paint didn't hold up. I went with a Diamond C trailer and couldn't be happier. Well built and paint has not been an issue. I load logs on and off mine all summer long and hasn't seemed to affected it. Great informational video. Keep it going. Really like your channel.
I bought a pj trailer this past summer . Actually I hade it custom built . I totally agree with you on the deck . What I did was I treated mine with a paint on stain and added fine silicone sand in the mix . This turned out awesome and makes the deck allot more slip resistant. Looks awesome as well . Overall a nice trailer .
@@danandchristy No snow and ice yet . I live in eastern North Carolina . The abrasive sand I added to the stain definitely makes a difference when the deck is wet . Especially driving up on it . And also walking on it .
bought a PJ 12 foot BP dump trailer a year and a half ago it is well worth the investment. highly recommend the wireless remote so you can dump from the cab of the truck. mine hauls horse manure, rocks, fire wood, the tractor (fits a 3038E without bucket perfectly) the paint has help up pretty good overtime, at least once a year ill wire wheel any rust away and hit it with some rust-oleum high performance enamel and that seems to do the trick. looking at a roll off trailer so I can have a bigger dump trailer and a flatbed all in one, leaning towards Texas pride.
This is the exact video I needed to see. Thank you. I need to do more research on getting the dealer to “downrate” a trailer, since I’ll be pulling w/ a 1 ton truck. Thanks for your honest review of the features you liked & the issues you had. Of everything you added, the 14-ply non China bomb tires were your smartest move.
POR-15 for the rust spots, hand pack those EZLUBE wheel bearings, the gimmick doesn't always work so great and you end up greasing your brakes better than the bearings. Might also try pressure washing the deck then full dry and thompson water seal or similar.
On my 32' gooseneck I mounted a 12k winch from Harbor Freight. It doesn't get used every week but has worked everytime I needed it over the past few years. Also pick up one of their snatch blocks for double backing the cable to help unload those dead Deere. Just make sure to use a large RV style battery and wire in a solar panel to maintain it.
Good winch, great winch if you take it apart and lubricate it. It seems silly they would make such a great product and miss something as simple as proper lubrication but that's how they decided to plan it's obsolescence. +1 to a snatch block and a battery maintainer.
@@kingrpriddick good point especially if water intrusion is possible. I mounted mine on channel inside the neck chain box level with the bed rails so it never gets wet. I've rebuilt or replaced a few Warn winches from lack of lube and water intrusion on the motors and rusted solid. If left out in the weather I'd consider a winch cover.
For a trailer winch setup I use a Badlands 1200 on a receiver hitch cradle so I don't have to leave it out in the elements when not in use. The cradles are cheap on amazon and really you can add almost any brand of winch to them. You might need to weld a receiver hitch on your trailer to accept the cradle, however. The handy thing about this type of setup is that you can use it on other vehicles and trailers as well as long as they have a hitch to plug into.
Hi Courtney, I hope you and your family had a nice Thanksgiving! Thanks for a great review of your trailer. I was eyeing it when I came to pick up my tractor. A little over a month ago I also bought a 1 year old PJ Gooseneck trailer. It's not a deckover, so there are fenders that stick up, but I have 82" between them. The actual deck is 20' long. The options that mine has, are similar to yours, the special paint job meaning it had to come from Texas. The fenders were upgraded to1/4" thick so they should be very durable. Like yours, I have the 14 ply tires as well. But, the best option on mine is the electric over hydraulic disk brakes. They work extremely well, in that they are very smooth whether the trailer is loaded or not, there is no brake fade, and they will stop the trailer in a hurry without being jerky. I'm pulling it with my F250 with the onboard brake controller. As a side note, I did order a Shocker Air Adjustable Hitch, which I haven't got yet. Looking forward to trying it.
I really like my PJ dump trailer would recommend any of their dump trailer series I have played with a lot of them. I should ask my friends if they like my trailer because I think they borrow it more than I use it myself. Good luck great honest video. Stay Safe!!
The rust issue is such a disappointment with all steel trailers. Keep in mind the wood decks should be coated with a product like Thompson's Water Seal or equivalent when new. Pressure Treated wood today sucks and definitely needs additional treatment. Good luck!
Check out a 16ft deck-over dump trailer with fold down sides. Super versatile. Pick up a cheap HF Badlands winch for your trailer. Don’t spend a lot on a Warn that’s just going to sit outside.
Great video. Four years ago I looked at the bigger names in trailers and bought a "Gator" 20+5 model, only paid $9,400. It was nice and they were powder coated, never have had any rust issues and parked next to a PJ same or better quality. Good luck
Pj used to be a good quality trailer. A few years back they and big Tex were bought by a large holding company, ever since then their quality has nose dived. Pay the extra money and go with a diamond C or a Sure-trac. I have a Sure-trac 14k dump which has been absolutely flawless, gets used for my construction business every day. We also have a diamond c gn deckover which has also been a great investment. No downtime on either of these trailers. You are 100 percent on point about upgrading to the 14 ply tires. The 10 ply tires that come with the trailers are garbage.
Keep the wood oiled, even if its old motor oil to keep wood from weathering as fast. Every trailer I've owned has looked well used after 2 years(indiana weather). Just keep it cleaned up and oiled is about all you can do. Tires.......watch the speed rating. Took off for Texas to haul back a 53 ford and didn't realize the tires were max speed 65. They did not like being loaded a and running 80 on the intestate. Had to upgrade to for the next run.
Hey thanks a lot for doing this video. I am actually almost ready to place my custom order of the exact model you have except in a 32 foot. This gives me a lot more confidence in my decision.
Master C never having towed a goose neck myself do you enjoy it more then a bumper pull? I may get one someday and just wondered. You are not being picky that wood and metal should be in better shape being only 14 months old, for the cost.
It’s a nice big trailer with a lot of good options but it seems to have quite a few quality control issues. I personally would hard pass on buying another one unless they made it up to me for all the disappointments. I have a 12,000 lb Badlands winch on my trailer. Works well and I haven’t had any issues with it. (So far anyways)
I had the same winch on my trailer and it did everything I needed it to. I didnt want to spend the money for a Warn when I would only use it two or three times a year. I have the wireless remote and that is a game changer for sure!
I use old hot motor oil paint it on in the sun. Soaks in. Kind of slick after you first do it but had my little trailer outside since 84. Floor still looking great frame not so hot.
Had a PJ car hauler. Worked as it should but, it started rusting in no time. The only other issue was the lights. They wiring was not really that secure or protected. I ended up re-doing it all myself. Around here (N Illinois) PJ is considered a low to mid grade trailer. Definitely less money than a lot of others.
The biggest problem I see with a single wheel trailer that long is that it’s so heavy that you’re axles are half loaded when the trailer is empty.I know you’re concerned about the 26K GVW but you don’t have a lot of payload left with 7K axles.
I bought a Doolittle utility trailer a couple of years ago. The powder coat on it has held up really well. The wood decking is showing a little bit of age and wear. Overall i kind of wish i went a tad bit different route. I can not say anything bad about them
You probably aren't going to do anything about the deck since you waited this long, and, to be honest, you should have done something when you first got the trailer (now a lot of damage is done). However, I recommend you use Penofin for pressure treated wood. The only place I have been able to find it is online and it isn't cheap. It is great with protecting the wood from the sun, which is likely what is causing your warping and splitting. I have used it used it on wood fences, house decks and trailer decking (had it 5 years with heavy use and it is still in good shape). Even if you only put a couple of coats on it once, it will really help prevent more damage to the wood for years, and it looks good also.
Hey, I think you should just clean up the rust yourself then use a good product like POR 15 or something similiar, after that you should undercoat the entire underside every year. We all undercoat our vehicles to prevent rust right?? why not undercoat our trailers. Also treat the wood as well, like others sugested. If you want something done right, do it yourself. Keep up the great videos!!
couple things i've seen, my friends PJ came off the ball while motoring down the highway. Turns out the couple locking mechanism wore enough that it wont hold securely to the ball, we can duplicate it over and over. He has about 50k miles with it, and is a less than a year old. Probably we should all add that check to our pretrips. Also, electric brakes...some much trouble, and high cost to maintain. Both of these would be true for any brand, most use dexter axles, and the hammering of the coupler to the ball is non-stop. (all though my trailer is not a PJ and has about 150k in the 1 1/2 I've had it. Coupler lock mechanism is worn about half way through.) All be safe, and have some fun.
I found your video tonight. I have had a “new” 2024 PJ LD for less than two months and it’s loaded with issues. I have noticed that the deck boards are literally rotted and fall apart with anything that touches the wood. Also, why would they have their butt joints not over structure underneath??!!! Each point where the boards butt against another, the end of the boards is being pushed down. Paint is bad, lift axle that cannot be used, electrical problems. My Iron Bull by Norstar was actually a better trailer.
Im shopping for a trailer. Watching vids on several brands is helpful. Seems every brand has paint issues. Nevr a bad thing to over buy on weight and haul less but I just don't see a reason to hav it de-rated. If your hauling under the stickr and cdl weight limit, it shouldnt b illegal, right??? Thanks for the vid
@@GoodWorksTractors got a $200 ticket for hauling more than my tag was rated for (N.C.) Thankfully I hav cdl's so no worries ther. By derating it I'd just hav to b a lot more careful on over weighting. Thanks
Use a razor blade to pop one of those paint bubbles and see if the paint in de laminating from the primer or if it's the primer coming away from the steel if ur paying extra for primer something is wrong all bare steel must be primer for any paint to properly adhere they probably gave it a quick etch prime quick scuff on that if ur lucky and sprayed it. To do it properly raw steel 80 grit minimum then a high build primer 180 grit that back for industrial finish then 2 coats of 2k paint or sandblast 80g to remove profile a good wet on wet primer and 2 coats of paint is the 2 options to be done correctly
Courtney, how does it pull? Never dealt with a goose neck, all our experiences have been bumper pull. We were deep into drag racing some 25 years ago, & I don't remember it being an issue then, but now that I'm a little older the back & forth jerking from tar strips & other imperfections in the road are really uncomfortable. Saw a dampening style bumper hitch, are these the cure?
Hey Belinda, this pulls very well. Much better than a loaded down bumper pull. I do think the torsion hitches (Gen Y) help with the bumper pull though and I've thought about adding one to my Gooseneck as well just to improve the ride even further.
I have been on your website several times in the last week and just stopped a guy today to ask how he liked his Diamond C. I'm in the market right now, would love to talk!
Here's what Ive learned with a lot of equipment and trailer haulage.You cannot neglect that trailer deck.learn how to make your own creosote oil,or used oil,anything to protect wood.Secondly,i see no rustproffing under that trailer.You got to spray them if you want them to last and look good.Spray those trailer rims with a light coating of fluid film or rust proof clear.Painted trailers rust over time no matter what,you will inevitably have to touch it up.Lastly,if that trailer is parked outside,put some RV wheel covers on those tires,UV will kill them before anything else.And finally,if you dont like all the maintenance,go galvanize or aluminium.My old man pounded this stuff in our heads at a young age running equipment,Im damn glad he did.
As far as a winch goes, I have a 20' Bri Mar trailer with a 14000lb GVWR, that gives me about a 10000lb capacity. With that in mind I bought a Traveler winch from Tractor Supply with a 10000lb capacity (I tend to be budget minded, meaning I'm cheap). I should have gotten one with at least a 12000 lb capacity because I was winching a small IH bulldozer on and the winch handled it just fine until it got to the ramps. It just wouldn't pull it up the ramps. The dozer was almost all the way on them but that's where the winch ran out of steam. I got it all the way on with only a hand come-along to help, so it was close. I don't know anything about physics but the weight seems to multiply when pulling something up a sharp incline, 5' ramps in this case. I can hear the winch slow down even when just pulling a car up the ramps. It does it, but you can tell it's working harder. Always go oversize. Like you said, you always need more than you thought whether it's "D" rings on a trailer, the size of a garage, or a winch. I have some rust issues on my trailer so I'm thinking of replacing it in the spring. Possibly with a tilt trailer. Great video as always, thanks.
Try hammer tone paint a American paint product not cheap prepare the surface make sure it’s clean a dry and paint . If that was my trailer I would do two good coats of hammertone paint
Good afternoon. Wood possibly wasn't cured and even after it being installed is it cures hence pulling up/drawing up at width. Happens if you pay for pressure treated deck. Give and take kinda deal. I get it,like ya said, you pay X and you see a cosmetic issue/ annoyance. Did you go with crossmembers at 12,14 or 16" on center? I ask because if you park enough weight on a wooded deck in roughly the same spot and are running 16" on center crossmembers you'll get the weight making the board prematurely pull against the fastener. This will cause a response flare up "I paid x for this it should not happen " well a fix is go with 12 or 14" on center crossmembers, they're closer to one another and help in some cases keep the boards from pulling against the fastener. Live and learn/million ways to skin a buck. Warn,Smitty Built are the 2 I've used. Living N of Lansing winch speed doesn't concern me as much as fighting corrosion from the elements plus salt and chloride. Think of putting the winch in a well sealed box. Take the fare lead if using synthetic rope or roll lead if using wire and mount it to the face of the box. Also thinking about using a snatch block when winching whatever onto said trailer your d-rings will help you immensely. Sorry for lengthy comment. Spare tire that could have happened at any mount location. Nylon nuts with blue loctite help. Nylon inserts .
Being as you paid extra for pre priming, pretty disappointing really. It should have been sand/grit blasted before priming, but doesn't look like it got done. All paint work should be 2 pack industrial paint, not just normal enamel. Other wise not a bad trailer for what your build criteria is. You should also note, powder coat is not actually totally water proof, you need to overcoat it with a good 2 pack paint to completely seal it. I also noticed that where the steel overlaps steel, like on the ramps, that it wasn't sealed with something like a paintable polyurethane. If thats done straight after sand/grit blasting & the trailer is totally dry, then you will never get rust starting under those over laps. Blast, seal, prime then top coat, all done inside, trailer should never get wet between blasting to top coat. A good idea for the underside of the trailer is an under body coating, or bed liner type coatings. This will completely seal the underside. Hope that helps
I just bought a PJ 18 foot Dovetail and honestly it’s a new trailer, and there’s already spots where the paint has come off, and it’s rusting, and yeah, I haven’t even really used it yet, and the wood already looks like shit, and all 4 of the wheel bearings are loose and I literally only drove it, with no load 350 miles from the place I bought it from. It also looks like whoever did the wiring didn’t seal the butt connectors properly. Like I haven’t even used my trailer yet, and I could honestly tell you, I’m very concerned about the craftsmanship that went into building this trailer.
@@ibookgeek01 That misalignment would drive me nuts! Personally, I wouldn't have de-rated the axles (or tires) if that's what was done. They could just de-rate the trailer itself but leave the heavier duty axles and probably 17.5" tires (although 19.5" truck tires work quite well on trailers & have a higher speed rating).
I have a PJ dump i like But it doesn't have the workmanship or quality like a mortz trailer it is a 16' Tri axle gooseneck dump trailer it is a heavy bill good trailer go with the taller deck I feel that the low deck style dump trailers are too low especially for what I do off road cutting wood
I think after your review that PJ trailers are needing better quality control. You had to pay to have the trailer primed? The tires aren't centered in the openings? The spare fell off on the freeway? Rust and paint bubbling in places where the coating wasn't scraped off? Anyway, a good winch at least 12K rating with a snatch block is needed. Just wait till you pick a tractor with a dead starter or something. I worry about those stake pocket D-rings being stolen or pins tampered with. I do like the rear ramps that become part of the deck length for added cargo area and you are having good luck with your tires which is a huge thing. Believe me, I have blown off my share of trailer tires.
WHAT?!?!? You had to pay extra for primer? I'd wonder what other short cuts they were taking. AND it still rusted after a year? Salty roads or not, I'd be buying from another manufacture next time. Look for powder coating next trailer.
I don’t recommend the powder coating on a trailer in the rust belt, one scratch turns to a little rust and then turns to huge sheets of powder coat flaking off leaving huge spaces unprotected. Been there several times, I’d rather have paint that I can sand down a touch and rattle can over the top
As someone who sandblasts and paints heavy equipment powdercoat is the worst mistake owners make that's 99% of our workload is to take it off and then apply paint usually within 6 months and most time there's already quite heavy rust pitting especially near sharp edges
@@rickyhorsburgh6581 Thanks for the info. Fortunately I'm in the South East, salty roads are not an issue. What struck me funny was having to pay extra for primer. Had it been me, I'd walked away right then. I would have been thinking what other short cuts would they be taking. As for me, I build all my trailers and from a BIG oak tree, and a step ladder, I hang all my trailers then spray rust preventives, prime and paint. Yeah they might be a bug or two, pollen, leaves; but after a year or two they really don't show that bad. LOL Thanks again for that info. No powder coating for my trailers.
@@Timberland-Farms Thank you! I'm in the South East and salty roads are rare. As for me, I build all my trailers. Thanks to a BIG oak tree, wench, and a step ladder mine get well sprayed with rust preventives, primer and paint. What took me back was the "had to pay extra for primer..." I would have walked away at that point. That would make me think of what other short cuts they were taking. But I definitely see your point about rust undermining power coat. Thanks again!!!
Ever since Bain Capital (aka) Mittens Romney's company bought out #PJTRAILERS and #BIGTEX around 2019, quality control is non existent. PJ does not prime before painting (never heard of anyone not priming steel before painting) , a child could do better welding. Wiring will always be a problem (they run wiring through roughly drill holes in steel, no rubber grommets). I had axle / wheel bearing failure causing a fire. PJ refused any assistance, Dexter Axle stepped up and covered everything PJ should of. But it's been 4 weeks and I'm still waiting on PJ to ship parts. I'll never buy another PJ trailer, actually hoping it gets stolen. I'll feel extremely guilty selling it to another person.
Pj quality control is crap, apparently no one ever heard of a grinder , my brand new b5 came with incomplete weld's, lots of welding wire left on with globs of snot, break wiring rubbed through on the tire just bringing it home from the dealer, paid extra for the galvanized primer but trailer rusting already at 2 weeks from the build date, my previous 2008 pj was near perfect but this new one is horrible.
Yes, it bothers me now that I know about it. Some others already pointed it out. I still have never noticed standing next to it, only in the video. I'll have to stand broadside to it and check again in person. I'm assuming this is how all of their tractors come out of the factory, but could be wrong. No one has ever mentioned a thing in person or any other video. Maybe, it's just more pronounced because of the angles in this video. I don' really know.
@@GoodWorksTractors thanks for responding I like your videos. So many tractors, attachments etc.you have. I love learning different things. My dad I think would have liked your videos too.
It’s hard to believe this is actually a good trailer when it’s rusting to shit after a year, the Mexican wood is degrading like styrofoam and half the lights went out. After 14 months none of that should be happening especially after the extra money you paid.
Had a PJ car hauler. Worked as it should but, it started rusting in no time. The only other issue was the lights. They wiring was not really that secure or protected. I ended up re-doing it all myself. Around here (N Illinois) PJ is considered a low to mid grade trailer. Definitely less money than a lot of others.
![OhGeesy x Lefty Gunplay - What It Iz [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L0yzW9t2ixk/mqdefault.jpg)
Get more info on those stake pocket D-Rings here!
BUY STAKE POCKET D-RINGS HERE! amzn.to/2Ggy2Pu
Plus a couple other cool tie down products as well!
BUY EZ RATCHET CHAIN BINDER HERE! amzn.to/3ifhpkd or amzn.to/2EF4daK
BUY TRACTOR TIE DOWNS HERE! 5% off with discount code GWT muddscustoms.com/collections/all
I looked at PJ trailers and the one bad thing everyone said was the paint didn't hold up. I went with a Diamond C trailer and couldn't be happier. Well built and paint has not been an issue. I load logs on and off mine all summer long and hasn't seemed to affected it. Great informational video. Keep it going. Really like your channel.
The paint on y PJ came off within the first year. It really sucks.
I bought a pj trailer this past summer . Actually I hade it custom built . I totally agree with you on the deck . What I did was I treated mine with a paint on stain and added fine silicone sand in the mix . This turned out awesome and makes the deck allot more slip resistant. Looks awesome as well . Overall a nice trailer .
Have you used your trailer in the snow/ice? I am curious to the added traction in the winter. I need to do something with mine. Thanks
@@danandchristy No snow and ice yet . I live in eastern North Carolina . The abrasive sand I added to the stain definitely makes a difference when the deck is wet . Especially driving up on it . And also walking on it .
Completely agree. Paint w/ sand mixed in has served me well on utility trailers. The sand makes a noticeable difference when the deck is wet.
bought a PJ 12 foot BP dump trailer a year and a half ago it is well worth the investment. highly recommend the wireless remote so you can dump from the cab of the truck. mine hauls horse manure, rocks, fire wood, the tractor (fits a 3038E without bucket perfectly) the paint has help up pretty good overtime, at least once a year ill wire wheel any rust away and hit it with some rust-oleum high performance enamel and that seems to do the trick.
looking at a roll off trailer so I can have a bigger dump trailer and a flatbed all in one, leaning towards Texas pride.
This is the exact video I needed to see. Thank you. I need to do more research on getting the dealer to “downrate” a trailer, since I’ll be pulling w/ a 1 ton truck. Thanks for your honest review of the features you liked & the issues you had. Of everything you added, the 14-ply non China bomb tires were your smartest move.
Diamond C "Difference Maker" coating system doesn't rust like that so far that I've seen. Might want to check it out.
One advantage with the black top is snow and ice will melt off. Good work.
POR-15 for the rust spots, hand pack those EZLUBE wheel bearings, the gimmick doesn't always work so great and you end up greasing your brakes better than the bearings. Might also try pressure washing the deck then full dry and thompson water seal or similar.
On my 32' gooseneck I mounted a 12k winch from Harbor Freight. It doesn't get used every week but has worked everytime I needed it over the past few years. Also pick up one of their snatch blocks for double backing the cable to help unload those dead Deere. Just make sure to use a large RV style battery and wire in a solar panel to maintain it.
Good winch, great winch if you take it apart and lubricate it. It seems silly they would make such a great product and miss something as simple as proper lubrication but that's how they decided to plan it's obsolescence. +1 to a snatch block and a battery maintainer.
@@kingrpriddick good point especially if water intrusion is possible. I mounted mine on channel inside the neck chain box level with the bed rails so it never gets wet. I've rebuilt or replaced a few Warn winches from lack of lube and water intrusion on the motors and rusted solid. If left out in the weather I'd consider a winch cover.
@@kingrpriddick I have a HF 12000 winch. Never thought about taking it apart to lube it. How hard is that to do?
For a trailer winch setup I use a Badlands 1200 on a receiver hitch cradle so I don't have to leave it out in the elements when not in use. The cradles are cheap on amazon and really you can add almost any brand of winch to them. You might need to weld a receiver hitch on your trailer to accept the cradle, however. The handy thing about this type of setup is that you can use it on other vehicles and trailers as well as long as they have a hitch to plug into.
Hi Courtney,
I hope you and your family had a nice Thanksgiving!
Thanks for a great review of your trailer. I was eyeing it when I came to pick up my tractor.
A little over a month ago I also bought a 1 year old PJ Gooseneck trailer. It's not a deckover, so there are fenders that stick up, but I have 82" between them. The actual deck is 20' long. The options that mine has, are similar to yours, the special paint job meaning it had to come from Texas. The fenders were upgraded to1/4" thick so they should be very durable. Like yours, I have the 14 ply tires as well. But, the best option on mine is the electric over hydraulic disk brakes. They work extremely well, in that they are very smooth whether the trailer is loaded or not, there is no brake fade, and they will stop the trailer in a hurry without being jerky. I'm pulling it with my F250 with the onboard brake controller.
As a side note, I did order a Shocker Air Adjustable Hitch, which I haven't got yet. Looking forward to trying it.
I really like my PJ dump trailer would recommend any of their dump trailer series I have played with a lot of them. I should ask my friends if they like my trailer because I think they borrow it more than I use it myself. Good luck great honest video. Stay Safe!!
The rust issue is such a disappointment with all steel trailers. Keep in mind the wood decks should be coated with a product like Thompson's Water Seal or equivalent when new. Pressure Treated wood today sucks and definitely needs additional treatment. Good luck!
Check out a 16ft deck-over dump trailer with fold down sides. Super versatile. Pick up a cheap HF Badlands winch for your trailer. Don’t spend a lot on a Warn that’s just going to sit outside.
Great video. Four years ago I looked at the bigger names in trailers and bought a "Gator" 20+5 model, only paid $9,400. It was nice and they were powder coated, never have had any rust issues and parked next to a PJ same or better quality. Good luck
Pj used to be a good quality trailer. A few years back they and big Tex were bought by a large holding company, ever since then their quality has nose dived. Pay the extra money and go with a diamond C or a Sure-trac. I have a Sure-trac 14k dump which has been absolutely flawless, gets used for my construction business every day. We also have a diamond c gn deckover which has also been a great investment. No downtime on either of these trailers. You are 100 percent on point about upgrading to the 14 ply tires. The 10 ply tires that come with the trailers are garbage.
Got a 14 ft suretrac dumb trailer and love it it’s built well
I just ordered a pj car hauler and they do now come standard with primer under powder coat I hope it holds up.
Wisconsin
Keep the wood oiled, even if its old motor oil to keep wood from weathering as fast. Every trailer I've owned has looked well used after 2 years(indiana weather). Just keep it cleaned up and oiled is about all you can do. Tires.......watch the speed rating. Took off for Texas to haul back a 53 ford and didn't realize the tires were max speed 65. They did not like being loaded a and running 80 on the intestate. Had to upgrade to for the next run.
Wow that paint just made my mind up to go with a diamond c. Thanks for the review.
Purchased a H&H dump trailer. I have never had a problem with it. They are built heavier than others.
I like PJ. What length is that 25+5? Are running an F-250 or 350? Thanks in advance.
Hey thanks a lot for doing this video. I am actually almost ready to place my custom
order of the exact model you have except in a 32 foot. This gives me a lot more confidence in my decision.
Best of luck!
Look at a big tex trailer. 28ft+5 or the 30+5. 22GN or 25GN. Better price and better quality for sure!
Master C never having towed a goose neck myself do you enjoy it more then a bumper pull? I may get one someday and just wondered.
You are not being picky that wood and metal should be in better shape being only 14 months old, for the cost.
It’s a nice big trailer with a lot of good options but it seems to have quite a few quality control issues. I personally would hard pass on buying another one unless they made it up to me for all the disappointments. I have a 12,000 lb Badlands winch on my trailer. Works well and I haven’t had any issues with it. (So far anyways)
I had the same winch on my trailer and it did everything I needed it to. I didnt want to spend the money for a Warn when I would only use it two or three times a year. I have the wireless remote and that is a game changer for sure!
Thompson water seal will help with the wood issue. Rust is more difficult. Not sure there’s a really good answer for that.
I use old hot motor oil paint it on in the sun. Soaks in. Kind of slick after you first do it but had my little trailer outside since 84. Floor still looking great frame not so hot.
Thank you for providing some feedback. Everyone does reviews when new, hard to find information after people have owned and used their trailer..
Had a PJ car hauler. Worked as it should but, it started rusting in no time. The only other issue was the lights. They wiring was not really that secure or protected. I ended up re-doing it all myself. Around here (N Illinois) PJ is considered a low to mid grade trailer. Definitely less money than a lot of others.
The biggest problem I see with a single wheel trailer that long is that it’s so heavy that you’re axles are half loaded when the trailer is empty.I know you’re concerned about the 26K GVW but you don’t have a lot of payload left with 7K axles.
Which indicates , that , maybe he DIDN'T give enough thought to what size and weight of trailer he should purchase !
I bought a Doolittle utility trailer a couple of years ago. The powder coat on it has held up really well. The wood decking is showing a little bit of age and wear. Overall i kind of wish i went a tad bit different route. I can not say anything bad about them
You probably aren't going to do anything about the deck since you waited this long, and, to be honest, you should have done something when you first got the trailer (now a lot of damage is done). However, I recommend you use Penofin for pressure treated wood. The only place I have been able to find it is online and it isn't cheap. It is great with protecting the wood from the sun, which is likely what is causing your warping and splitting. I have used it used it on wood fences, house decks and trailer decking (had it 5 years with heavy use and it is still in good shape). Even if you only put a couple of coats on it once, it will really help prevent more damage to the wood for years, and it looks good also.
great video - thanks
Hey, I think you should just clean up the rust yourself then use a good product like POR 15 or something similiar, after that you should undercoat the entire underside every year. We all undercoat our vehicles to prevent rust right?? why not undercoat our trailers. Also treat the wood as well, like others sugested. If you want something done right, do it yourself. Keep up the great videos!!
Yeah, I just might need to go that route. Thanks for watching!
couple things i've seen, my friends PJ came off the ball while motoring down the highway. Turns out the couple locking mechanism wore enough that it wont hold securely to the ball, we can duplicate it over and over. He has about 50k miles with it, and is a less than a year old. Probably we should all add that check to our pretrips. Also, electric brakes...some much trouble, and high cost to maintain. Both of these would be true for any brand, most use dexter axles, and the hammering of the coupler to the ball is non-stop. (all though my trailer is not a PJ and has about 150k in the 1 1/2 I've had it. Coupler lock mechanism is worn about half way through.)
All be safe, and have some fun.
I found your video tonight. I have had a “new” 2024 PJ LD for less than two months and it’s loaded with issues. I have noticed that the deck boards are literally rotted and fall apart with anything that touches the wood. Also, why would they have their butt joints not over structure underneath??!!! Each point where the boards butt against another, the end of the boards is being pushed down. Paint is bad, lift axle that cannot be used, electrical problems. My Iron Bull by Norstar was actually a better trailer.
You need to coat your wood with a good coat of linseed oil stops splitting and cracking...
Used motor oil or ATF works just as good and is cheaper. I use a 3/4" nap paint roller.
Im shopping for a trailer. Watching vids on several brands is helpful. Seems every brand has paint issues. Nevr a bad thing to over buy on weight and haul less but I just don't see a reason to hav it de-rated. If your hauling under the stickr and cdl weight limit, it shouldnt b illegal, right??? Thanks for the vid
That's the reason to de-rate. Get under the CDL requirement. If I haul with my F-350, then I'd be over 26,000 lbs unless it was de-rated.
@@GoodWorksTractors got a $200 ticket for hauling more than my tag was rated for (N.C.) Thankfully I hav cdl's so no worries ther. By derating it I'd just hav to b a lot more careful on over weighting. Thanks
Use a razor blade to pop one of those paint bubbles and see if the paint in de laminating from the primer or if it's the primer coming away from the steel if ur paying extra for primer something is wrong all bare steel must be primer for any paint to properly adhere they probably gave it a quick etch prime quick scuff on that if ur lucky and sprayed it. To do it properly raw steel 80 grit minimum then a high build primer 180 grit that back for industrial finish then 2 coats of 2k paint or sandblast 80g to remove profile a good wet on wet primer and 2 coats of paint is the 2 options to be done correctly
Courtney, how does it pull? Never dealt with a goose neck, all our experiences have been bumper pull. We were deep into drag racing some 25 years ago, & I don't remember it being an issue then, but now that I'm a little older the back & forth jerking from tar strips & other imperfections in the road are really uncomfortable. Saw a dampening style bumper hitch, are these the cure?
Hey Belinda, this pulls very well. Much better than a loaded down bumper pull. I do think the torsion hitches (Gen Y) help with the bumper pull though and I've thought about adding one to my Gooseneck as well just to improve the ride even further.
Warranty on the primer, I call and inquire about it
Definitely. They might want the good press too if you could come back and say they took care of it.
Can extra springs be added to the ramps to help lift?
What length is this? And would you buy the same length again?
We're going to have to collab soon! 😎💪
I have been on your website several times in the last week and just stopped a guy today to ask how he liked his Diamond C. I'm in the market right now, would love to talk!
Here's what Ive learned with a lot of equipment and trailer haulage.You cannot neglect that trailer deck.learn how to make your own creosote oil,or used oil,anything to protect wood.Secondly,i see no rustproffing under that trailer.You got to spray them if you want them to last and look good.Spray those trailer rims with a light coating of fluid film or rust proof clear.Painted trailers rust over time no matter what,you will inevitably have to touch it up.Lastly,if that trailer is parked outside,put some RV wheel covers on those tires,UV will kill them before anything else.And finally,if you dont like all the maintenance,go galvanize or aluminium.My old man pounded this stuff in our heads at a young age running equipment,Im damn glad he did.
As far as a winch goes, I have a 20' Bri Mar trailer with a 14000lb GVWR, that gives me about a 10000lb capacity. With that in mind I bought a Traveler winch from Tractor Supply with a 10000lb capacity (I tend to be budget minded, meaning I'm cheap). I should have gotten one with at least a 12000 lb capacity because I was winching a small IH bulldozer on and the winch handled it just fine until it got to the ramps. It just wouldn't pull it up the ramps. The dozer was almost all the way on them but that's where the winch ran out of steam. I got it all the way on with only a hand come-along to help, so it was close. I don't know anything about physics but the weight seems to multiply when pulling something up a sharp incline, 5' ramps in this case. I can hear the winch slow down even when just pulling a car up the ramps. It does it, but you can tell it's working harder. Always go oversize. Like you said, you always need more than you thought whether it's "D" rings on a trailer, the size of a garage, or a winch. I have some rust issues on my trailer so I'm thinking of replacing it in the spring. Possibly with a tilt trailer. Great video as always, thanks.
Check out our video review on the PJ Dump trailer. Keep in mind we nit pick at the flaws as well, but overall very happy and would buy again.
Try hammer tone paint a American paint product not cheap prepare the surface make sure it’s clean a dry and paint . If that was my trailer I would do two good coats of hammertone paint
You never been around a diamond C best gooseneck on the market
Good afternoon. Wood possibly wasn't cured and even after it being installed is it cures hence pulling up/drawing up at width. Happens if you pay for pressure treated deck.
Give and take kinda deal.
I get it,like ya said, you pay X and you see a cosmetic issue/ annoyance.
Did you go with crossmembers at 12,14 or 16" on center? I ask because if you park enough weight on a wooded deck in roughly the same spot and are running 16" on center crossmembers you'll get the weight making the board prematurely pull against the fastener.
This will cause a response flare up "I paid x for this it should not happen " well a fix is go with 12 or 14" on center crossmembers, they're closer to one another and help in some cases keep the boards from pulling against the fastener.
Live and learn/million ways to skin a buck.
Warn,Smitty Built are the 2 I've used.
Living N of Lansing winch speed doesn't concern me as much as fighting corrosion from the elements plus salt and chloride.
Think of putting the winch in a well sealed box. Take the fare lead if using synthetic rope or roll lead if using wire and mount it to the face of the box. Also thinking about using a snatch block when winching whatever onto said trailer your d-rings will help you immensely.
Sorry for lengthy comment. Spare tire that could have happened at any mount location. Nylon nuts with blue loctite help. Nylon inserts .
Being as you paid extra for pre priming, pretty disappointing really. It should have been sand/grit blasted before priming, but doesn't look like it got done. All paint work should be 2 pack industrial paint, not just normal enamel. Other wise not a bad trailer for what your build criteria is.
You should also note, powder coat is not actually totally water proof, you need to overcoat it with a good 2 pack paint to completely seal it.
I also noticed that where the steel overlaps steel, like on the ramps, that it wasn't sealed with something like a paintable polyurethane. If thats done straight after sand/grit blasting & the trailer is totally dry, then you will never get rust starting under those over laps. Blast, seal, prime then top coat, all done inside, trailer should never get wet between blasting to top coat. A good idea for the underside of the trailer is an under body coating, or bed liner type coatings. This will completely seal the underside. Hope that helps
I’d look pretty hard at Diamond C. V Belt & Sons has some good videos on his.
Ditto on " D " rings ; nice.
how much insurance do you need to carry that trailer ??? I Jsu t wan t hotshot parttime
I just bought a PJ 18 foot Dovetail and honestly it’s a new trailer, and there’s already spots where the paint has come off, and it’s rusting, and yeah, I haven’t even really used it yet, and the wood already looks like shit, and all 4 of the wheel bearings are loose and I literally only drove it, with no load 350 miles from the place I bought it from. It also looks like whoever did the wiring didn’t seal the butt connectors properly. Like I haven’t even used my trailer yet, and I could honestly tell you, I’m very concerned about the craftsmanship that went into building this trailer.
what is the cost of a john deere 5075e with loader bucket and forks
Good information
8:30 The fenders don't match up with the tires...
I noticed that too! I thought it might have been the camera angle
I could be wrong, but he was saying that his trailer was de-rated, it could be a 22k trailer with 2 8k axles on it
@@ibookgeek01 That misalignment would drive me nuts! Personally, I wouldn't have de-rated the axles (or tires) if that's what was done. They could just de-rate the trailer itself but leave the heavier duty axles and probably 17.5" tires (although 19.5" truck tires work quite well on trailers & have a higher speed rating).
I have a PJ dump i like
But it doesn't have the workmanship or quality like a mortz trailer it is a 16' Tri axle gooseneck dump trailer it is a heavy bill good trailer go with the taller deck I feel that the low deck style dump trailers are too low especially for what I do off road cutting wood
Maybe mop the deck down with some linseed oil.
I've had good luck with Thompson's Water Seal!
Literally just put a down payment on a PJ dump trailer this past weekend...got atleast a 2-3 month lead time on it
Do u have link to the trailer how do I get one ?
Have you looked at galvanized trailers?
Yeah not nearly as many options
I think after your review that PJ trailers are needing better quality control. You had to pay to have the trailer primed? The tires aren't centered in the openings? The spare fell off on the freeway? Rust and paint bubbling in places where the coating wasn't scraped off?
Anyway, a good winch at least 12K rating with a snatch block is needed. Just wait till you pick a tractor with a dead starter or something. I worry about those stake pocket D-rings being stolen or pins tampered with.
I do like the rear ramps that become part of the deck length for added cargo area and you are having good luck with your tires which is a huge thing. Believe me, I have blown off my share of trailer tires.
Thanks for watching!
thanks for this. like everything else it's garbage. you have to build one yourself if you want any quality.
WHAT?!?!? You had to pay extra for primer? I'd wonder what other short cuts they were taking. AND it still rusted after a year? Salty roads or not, I'd be buying from another manufacture next time. Look for powder coating next trailer.
I don’t recommend the powder coating on a trailer in the rust belt, one scratch turns to a little rust and then turns to huge sheets of powder coat flaking off leaving huge spaces unprotected. Been there several times, I’d rather have paint that I can sand down a touch and rattle can over the top
As someone who sandblasts and paints heavy equipment powdercoat is the worst mistake owners make that's 99% of our workload is to take it off and then apply paint usually within 6 months and most time there's already quite heavy rust pitting especially near sharp edges
@@rickyhorsburgh6581 Thanks for the info. Fortunately I'm in the South East, salty roads are not an issue. What struck me funny was having to pay extra for primer. Had it been me, I'd walked away right then. I would have been thinking what other short cuts would they be taking. As for me, I build all my trailers and from a BIG oak tree, and a step ladder, I hang all my trailers then spray rust preventives, prime and paint. Yeah they might be a bug or two, pollen, leaves; but after a year or two they really don't show that bad. LOL
Thanks again for that info. No powder coating for my trailers.
@@Timberland-Farms Thank you! I'm in the South East and salty roads are rare. As for me, I build all my trailers. Thanks to a BIG oak tree, wench, and a step ladder mine get well sprayed with rust preventives, primer and paint. What took me back was the "had to pay extra for primer..." I would have walked away at that point. That would make me think of what other short cuts they were taking. But I definitely see your point about rust undermining power coat.
Thanks again!!!
You should have got it powder coated.. My trailer is six years old and stays outside no rust at all.....
Take it to Line-x. :)
You should have but a starlight trailer
What size is your PJ trailer?
sand and put a bedliner on that trailer deck!
Is the truck pulling the trailer a f350 or f250?
I think gray is f-250 and white is f-350
Check out Maxxd trailers, I bought two. 40' tilt & 16' dump both gooseneck
Check out bwise. i like our pj tilt but if we change it will be a bwise.
Ever since Bain Capital (aka) Mittens Romney's company bought out #PJTRAILERS and #BIGTEX around 2019, quality control is non existent. PJ does not prime before painting (never heard of anyone not priming steel before painting) , a child could do better welding. Wiring will always be a problem (they run wiring through roughly drill holes in steel, no rubber grommets). I had axle / wheel bearing failure causing a fire. PJ refused any assistance, Dexter Axle stepped up and covered everything PJ should of. But it's been 4 weeks and I'm still waiting on PJ to ship parts.
I'll never buy another PJ trailer, actually hoping it gets stolen. I'll feel extremely guilty selling it to another person.
Kaufman Trailers !!
Subbed. Would you sell your trailer?
Big question is did that sandblast the mill scale off before priming and paint??
I have no idea, that's a question for the manufacturer.
10 ply tires?
never mind
You should have UPgraded to 8k axles and 17.5 tires !!!
Get the #SHOCKERHITCH. Game changer, worth every penny.
Pj quality control is crap, apparently no one ever heard of a grinder , my brand new b5 came with incomplete weld's, lots of welding wire left on with globs of snot, break wiring rubbed through on the tire just bringing it home from the dealer, paid extra for the galvanized primer but trailer rusting already at 2 weeks from the build date, my previous 2008 pj was near perfect but this new one is horrible.
What is the farthest you yourself have delivered?
Not more than a long day trip, about 14 hours round trip.
What's wrong with the axles they don't look like the fender line up with tire?
Why does that mean there's something wrong with the axles?
@@GoodWorksTractors why would the axles not line up with the fenders it could just be the angle of camera at about the 8:30 mark
I would say that's more of an issue with them aligning the fenders to the axles. Axles are in good shape, no issues.
@@GoodWorksTractors ok just wondering but you paid good money for this trailer and you are ok with this? I can't believe pj let this leave the factory
Yes, it bothers me now that I know about it. Some others already pointed it out. I still have never noticed standing next to it, only in the video. I'll have to stand broadside to it and check again in person. I'm assuming this is how all of their tractors come out of the factory, but could be wrong. No one has ever mentioned a thing in person or any other video. Maybe, it's just more pronounced because of the angles in this video. I don' really know.
So what does it mean when you’re asking for donations and the blue line goes up while you’re talking., That shouldn’t of happened, right
I'm not sure. Probably a RUclips glitch.
@@GoodWorksTractors thanks for responding I like your videos. So many tractors, attachments etc.you have. I love learning different things. My dad I think would have liked your videos too.
Thats because pj copy of off star lite trailers
It’s hard to believe this is actually a good trailer when it’s rusting to shit after a year, the Mexican wood is degrading like styrofoam and half the lights went out. After 14 months none of that should be happening especially after the extra money you paid.
Had a PJ car hauler. Worked as it should but, it started rusting in no time. The only other issue was the lights. They wiring was not really that secure or protected. I ended up re-doing it all myself. Around here (N Illinois) PJ is considered a low to mid grade trailer. Definitely less money than a lot of others.