2007 suburban here. Mine did same thing decided to go with Rebuilt engine DOD delete (Jasper) cost a pretty penny but warranty is 3yr/100.000 miles and i love my truck
thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime, hopefully you have a good engine now that will last many years ,but i was trying to get out cheaper and i eventually did go ahead and fix it correctly, for less than $400 but i do everything myself of course, pulled motor and did cam bearings, delete cam and LS7 lifters n trays ,and she been running great and quiet, heres that video if wanna see the work that goes into one ruclips.net/video/cIJbEgCbxqo/видео.htmlsi=ek81jFfvPZ2cA76h
This is great info. I have an 03 Av. It's been a great rig. Now my wife's 2010 yukon has a collapsed lifter on 7. I saw your other comments about a full delete. I guess we'll see where I end up. Thanks for your time making this!
thank you for the comment, its definitely a gamble trying just a lifter or all lifters. some get lucky and i didn't, its probably just a band aid for the most part , I have so many vehicles this one just been sitting around but i really plan to get on it soon as i took it for a ride down street other day and just to dang nice to let her sit around weather i keep and drive or sell but i want it right and doing full delete and even cam bearings so i can get her right this time , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
there is a much easier way to unstick a stuck lifter we old guys been doing from the 60s up. just take off the valve cover and with the engine running take a hammer and tap on the rocker tappet over the push rod. you keep taping till you hit it while the push rod is mashed down as far as it goes. the extra pressure mashes the lifter down further than normal and the oil extra oil pressure the hydraulic lifter pushes the thing up and releases it. that way you only remove the valve cover. this also will make lifters not pumping oil up through the push rod start oiling again.
thanks for the feedback and i know exactly what your talking about but the AFM lifters are a different beast and has a whole different chamber inside and lock mechanisim to kill those cylinders when in 4cyl mode so it wont work that easy , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
Nice work. But if you're not going into the ecm and disabling active fuel management, chances are once DOD activates again the lifters will re-collapse. I used HP tuner to disable AFM.
I did unplug wire to brake booster as thats supposed to keep it from activating , but the lifters are In bad shape and didn't work. So I sent off computer to have it deactivated while im installing all new lifters in my next video. Hopefully this fixes it
I was watch that video where crazed had it on an he showed once the lifters release before you put the rocker you have tap on the end of the pushrod an snap the lifters back onto lock position before putting the rocker on .
yes thanks for the feedback and thats exactly what i did , when it popped it threw push rod out and i knew lifter released so i put pushrod back in and tapped with hammer lightly until it was locked in ,then when i put rocker on with cam on backside of lobe there was little play as lifter was set again and no oil to keep it pumped up. I made a few videos because i bought a new set as this was strictly to try and check the rest of the engine before spending real money or time on it if it needed another engine instead, but when i finally removed these i found out someone had just replaced and obviously it didn't fix and thats why they gave up and sold it , so after new lifters it runs great but still has slight tick sound and i dont trust it so im eventually gonna pull it and install new cam bearings and full delete the right way , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
I was thinking about using air, before punching it with metal. But also using some hydraulic fluid and some type of plunger. And try to hydraulically release the lifter. If all else putting a grease fitting on the hole and pumping grease into the lifter. But who knows it's just a thought. I have a 2007 Avalanche. I thinking just pull the heads and do it right. If i did the delete im not sure it would pass smog. Or maybe filling the hole up with oil before blasting air might be an ideal.
Yes I filled mine with brake clean and it helps when you push the air to it. I tried doing it right after this band aid, because I bought it this way and was so loud I thought bottom might be hurt also and didn't want to waste money and time pulling heads so was hoping to hear the engine if this worked , it didn't they were in pieces when I pulled it down and tried to replace the lifters with AFM lifters In another video. And found out someone just put new lifters before I bought it. When I replaced it has a slight tick now and oil pressure drops to 15 or so when warmed up and tick gets louder and I don't trust it so im pulling the engine and do the right way with new cam bearings and delete kit and cam. I already had it dissabled in computer
the air trick got them to pop loose but someone drove to much on them and turns out i had other issues, but i did finally get her fixed right as i got tired of half assing it. heres the real repair video ruclips.net/video/cIJbEgCbxqo/видео.htmlsi=jsG9LlMzjns5t5LR
I'm sure if you fighting this issue you been watching videos, it popped the same as hitting it thru the tower ,except mine wouldn't release with the hammer trick and you can put burs that will get lifter stuck in bore when trying to remove for replacement and seen the other guy that shows how the lifter will separate after they are out with air so I figured I just do it still in engine, it popped and pushrod flew out on floor. I stuck rod back in and pushed till it felt like it seated and tapped with hammer to make sure it locked inside, but if you seen my other videos after this it didn't work and I need to pull motor and do cam bearings and full AFM delete
Thanks and Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports, I actually put her on the back burner and been sitting outside, hopefully I get back on that one, still has a slight tick so I never put a tag on it and don't trust it. I want to pull motor this time and do the cam bearings and full delete the right way. I just wasn't lucky enough with the cheap route ,these motors don't like that haha
I make a tool exclusively designed for this. That tool has too small of a point. Having that small point risk damage to the lifter if it lands at the edge of the oil hole. The air only activates the locks. The hitting of the tool probably loosened it pryor. The air alone wont work because the locks are not the part that is stuck. If you get another you will likely find that out.
Definitely tried hitting with my tool and no luck as you seen. i know not to damage the lifter ot might never get out of the bore. as soon as i did the air ttick the push rod flew out as the lifter released. ive watched a lot of your videos prior to doing this and thats where I came up with the idea watching you make the lifters come apart on thr floor once they are out of the engine. your videos are very Is informative and i appreciate them and the feedback, if you seen any of my other videos after this one ( yes my first time with AFM) i was only trying to bandaid long enough to make sure the motor was worth putting real time and money into it as it wss making a very loud sound every so often and was afraid something in the bottom end. so next video i put all new lifters and someone right before me did the same thing and thats how i bought it with 3 bad and 2 was in peices. so after my set it ran great but had very small tick so eventually im pulling the engine to do cam bearings and full delete the right way , i did send computer to the guy you recommended and turn AFM off when i had it apart
I’m looking at a 2013 Silverado with misfire on cylinder 1. I was thinking if I get it, of taking off the valve covers and replacing all the lifters at once and then running one of those AFM disable modules that plugs into your OBD2 plug. In theory they should never collapse after that because the system just runs in “V8” mode after that. Would be cheaper than doing the full delete kit. What are your thoughts on that?
Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports, not sure is you seen my other AFM videos where I been fighting with this truck , it's not as simple as valve covers , have to remove heads to replace lifters. ,and I did what you are talking about (had my computer tuned so AFM disabled) and it still has a lite tick so I never actually put a tag on it to drive. Just kinda got parked outside my shop ,but it's to nice to let sit much longer but I have made my mind up to pull the engine so I can do cam bearings and full delete the correct way , you can try just lifters (afm style) but these engines are known for faulty cam bearings and its just a chance of luck if you try that way , I couldn't see any were on my cam lobes ,but the journals and bearings must have to much wear
i did finally pull the engine and do it right recently including cam bearings and full delete the right way. she running clean and quiet now and feels like more power. heres that video if wanna check it out. and thanks for watching Vassmotorsports ruclips.net/video/cIJbEgCbxqo/видео.htmlsi=AXbm85jvgTp6aeXj
I actually did ,plus I put valve medic in first oil change, then changed again and added Engine Restore because I had that fix a Bronco 2 I had 25 years ago lifter started ticking so bad I thought it was gone and that immediately fixed it, also this engine is actually very clean inside for the mileage, thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching Vassmotorsports, in another video I change the lifters with new set but still a slight tick i dont trust ,so it's been sitting outside the shop and put on back burner, I want to eventually pull the motor and do cam bearings and full delete the right way ,to nice of a truck not to do her right
Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports. It still has a slight tick I don't like so I never bothered putting a tag on it yet , there is definitely no gap between head and block lol, I plan on just pulling motor and putting new cam bearings and full delete with cam and lifters,with trays and plug the towers, I already have the AFM tuned out and pulled pan one day to block off the oil pressure valve and installed new oring on pick up screen
does ypur oil pressure stay decent even when the tick is happening or does it drop off ? that 05 doesn't have the AFM failure prone lifters. so one could be going bad , you could try an engine flush when you change oil next time and maybe step up the wieght to 10w40 if its high miles and if you only have 5w30 or something in it now , also ive used (engine restore) in silver bottle and its great ot even Lucas , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
Yes and I knew it needed lifters ,I just thought would be an easy fix like a good old 350 , but I learned the hard way. Hell I have so many vehicles and projects she been sitting on back burner ever since. One of the new lifters still has slight tick and I don't trust putting a tag and I drive out of state alot so can't trust like that , I plan to pull the motor and do cam bearings and full delete the right way this time , it's to nice to let sit
My gmc sonoma 4.3 keeps coming loose after adjustment is perfect earlier, why are the rocker bolts backing themselves out. It's only a few cylinders doing it, I recall. Any suggestions to keep the rockers tight and torqued ?
That is a wierd scenario, only thing comes to mind I would clean hole and bolt with brake clean and blow out with air. Then put red lock tight , maybe even new bolts and should work , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports
Wow sorry to hear that. I would hope it had some type of warranty but still not a good situation to go thru all the trouble of installing just to find out there's a problem
Bought a Running 5.3 J series Running from a Salvage yard in Des Moines Ia with 113,000 miles on it and switched them out. I checked on a reman and they wanted between 4 to 5 thousand for one.
@@charlesdeaton7112 Oh, Dang cause I was gonna say for 2450. That wouldn't be too bad for a reman I might would buy one., But I'm also a cheap guy. And I need to just fix this one myself
Exactly right. I just want to hear the engine is ok and not the bottom end as it makes a hell of a loud noise sometimes, and check trans before spending money or time on my new to me truck
🤣🤣🤣 exactly what they did. But I thought I could get out cheap replacing lifters but still has little tick so guess I'll pull the motor one day and do cam bearings and full delete the right way cause it's so nice of a vehicle
Haha. I considered doing cam and full delete but decided to take the easier less expensive route and replace stock style lifters( whole set and sent computer for afm delete) since cam still looks good and not 100% sure bottom end is ok and probably won't keep her but few months as I really wanted 4x4 but didn't want to pass this one up cause decent deal and beautiful condition
😅 I was wondering about that I have a 383 that I got a couple lifters that are done over and over tighten some other stuff so I'm going to try that are I think that'll be good
this will only work on these gen 4 LS engines with AFM. these are special lifters for those 4 cylinders so id imagine you would have a different problem with a 383 , and heads wont have to come off either. thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
Guess you didn't listen or watch all the videos on this vehicle, I bought it this way for myself and it had a terrible noise so I wasn't gonna do full cam swap without knowing the bottom end was even any good or gonna have to do an engine swap. I was just trying to band aid so I could drive her and make sure everything else was good like trans and engine before getting deep into her and spending money. Pretty simple dude. I wound up doing new lifter set and runs good but has a slight tick so I'll pull engine one day and do cam bearings and full delete swap the right way now I know Nothing wrong with bottom end and no overheating or issues and she drives so nice , I wouldn't think of selling someone a known lemon. Check out some of my other videos and you'll figure that out, that's why I have people that only beg me to work on their stuff but rarely have the time for them
2007 suburban here. Mine did same thing decided to go with Rebuilt engine DOD delete (Jasper) cost a pretty penny but warranty is 3yr/100.000 miles and i love my truck
thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime, hopefully you have a good engine now that will last many years ,but i was trying to get out cheaper and i eventually did go ahead and fix it correctly, for less than $400 but i do everything myself of course, pulled motor and did cam bearings, delete cam and LS7 lifters n trays ,and she been running great and quiet, heres that video if wanna see the work that goes into one ruclips.net/video/cIJbEgCbxqo/видео.htmlsi=ek81jFfvPZ2cA76h
This is great info. I have an 03 Av. It's been a great rig. Now my wife's 2010 yukon has a collapsed lifter on 7. I saw your other comments about a full delete. I guess we'll see where I end up.
Thanks for your time making this!
thank you for the comment, its definitely a gamble trying just a lifter or all lifters. some get lucky and i didn't, its probably just a band aid for the most part , I have so many vehicles this one just been sitting around but i really plan to get on it soon as i took it for a ride down street other day and just to dang nice to let her sit around weather i keep and drive or sell but i want it right and doing full delete and even cam bearings so i can get her right this time , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
there is a much easier way to unstick a stuck lifter we old guys been doing from the 60s up. just take off the valve cover and with the engine running take a hammer and tap on the rocker tappet over the push rod. you keep taping till you hit it while the push rod is mashed down as far as it goes. the extra pressure mashes the lifter down further than normal and the oil extra oil pressure the hydraulic lifter pushes the thing up and releases it. that way you only remove the valve cover. this also will make lifters not pumping oil up through the push rod start oiling again.
thanks for the feedback and i know exactly what your talking about but the AFM lifters are a different beast and has a whole different chamber inside and lock mechanisim to kill those cylinders when in 4cyl mode so it wont work that easy , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
The locking pawl in the lifter gets worn, or most cases, gets a small bur and then the locking mechanism gets stuck.
Nice work. But if you're not going into the ecm and disabling active fuel management, chances are once DOD activates again the lifters will re-collapse. I used HP tuner to disable AFM.
I did unplug wire to brake booster as thats supposed to keep it from activating , but the lifters are In bad shape and didn't work. So I sent off computer to have it deactivated while im installing all new lifters in my next video. Hopefully this fixes it
Can you please explain how hp tuners un collapse the lifters
@@rotsbelramos7685 it dose not uncolapse the lifters ! You can edit the tune to disable the dod so it won't activate!
Good vid kinda love my avalanche if my lifters collapse again ill give this a try.
Thanks for watching, its not a guarantee or permenant fix ,I believe once they collapse they are hurt
good luck with that man you seem to be able to do it
Thank God for wisdom and thank you for sharing
Lol thank you and Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports
I was watch that video where crazed had it on an he showed once the lifters release before you put the rocker you have tap on the end of the pushrod an snap the lifters back onto lock position before putting the rocker on .
yes thanks for the feedback and thats exactly what i did , when it popped it threw push rod out and i knew lifter released so i put pushrod back in and tapped with hammer lightly until it was locked in ,then when i put rocker on with cam on backside of lobe there was little play as lifter was set again and no oil to keep it pumped up. I made a few videos because i bought a new set as this was strictly to try and check the rest of the engine before spending real money or time on it if it needed another engine instead, but when i finally removed these i found out someone had just replaced and obviously it didn't fix and thats why they gave up and sold it , so after new lifters it runs great but still has slight tick sound and i dont trust it so im eventually gonna pull it and install new cam bearings and full delete the right way , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
I was thinking about using air, before punching it with metal. But also using some hydraulic fluid and some type of plunger. And try to hydraulically release the lifter. If all else putting a grease fitting on the hole and pumping grease into the lifter. But who knows it's just a thought. I have a 2007 Avalanche. I thinking just pull the heads and do it right. If i did the delete im not sure it would pass smog. Or maybe filling the hole up with oil before blasting air might be an ideal.
Yes I filled mine with brake clean and it helps when you push the air to it. I tried doing it right after this band aid, because I bought it this way and was so loud I thought bottom might be hurt also and didn't want to waste money and time pulling heads so was hoping to hear the engine if this worked , it didn't they were in pieces when I pulled it down and tried to replace the lifters with AFM lifters In another video. And found out someone just put new lifters before I bought it. When I replaced it has a slight tick now and oil pressure drops to 15 or so when warmed up and tick gets louder and I don't trust it so im pulling the engine and do the right way with new cam bearings and delete kit and cam. I already had it dissabled in computer
Great observation! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you and Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports
Now I wanna know if there’s any way to get the lifter to pop without taking off the heads.
the air trick got them to pop loose but someone drove to much on them and turns out i had other issues, but i did finally get her fixed right as i got tired of half assing it. heres the real repair video ruclips.net/video/cIJbEgCbxqo/видео.htmlsi=jsG9LlMzjns5t5LR
I wish you had filmed the air pop... and how you put the lifter back together
I'm sure if you fighting this issue you been watching videos, it popped the same as hitting it thru the tower ,except mine wouldn't release with the hammer trick and you can put burs that will get lifter stuck in bore when trying to remove for replacement and seen the other guy that shows how the lifter will separate after they are out with air so I figured I just do it still in engine, it popped and pushrod flew out on floor. I stuck rod back in and pushed till it felt like it seated and tapped with hammer to make sure it locked inside, but if you seen my other videos after this it didn't work and I need to pull motor and do cam bearings and full AFM delete
Very clean truck 🛻
Thanks and Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports, I actually put her on the back burner and been sitting outside, hopefully I get back on that one, still has a slight tick so I never put a tag on it and don't trust it. I want to pull motor this time and do the cam bearings and full delete the right way. I just wasn't lucky enough with the cheap route ,these motors don't like that haha
I make a tool exclusively designed for this. That tool has too small of a point. Having that small point risk damage to the lifter if it lands at the edge of the oil hole. The air only activates the locks. The hitting of the tool probably loosened it pryor. The air alone wont work because the locks are not the part that is stuck. If you get another you will likely find that out.
Definitely tried hitting with my tool and no luck as you seen. i know not to damage the lifter ot might never get out of the bore. as soon as i did the air ttick the push rod flew out as the lifter released. ive watched a lot of your videos prior to doing this and thats where I came up with the idea watching you make the lifters come apart on thr floor once they are out of the engine. your videos are very Is informative and i appreciate them and the feedback, if you seen any of my other videos after this one ( yes my first time with AFM) i was only trying to bandaid long enough to make sure the motor was worth putting real time and money into it as it wss making a very loud sound every so often and was afraid something in the bottom end. so next video i put all new lifters and someone right before me did the same thing and thats how i bought it with 3 bad and 2 was in peices. so after my set it ran great but had very small tick so eventually im pulling the engine to do cam bearings and full delete the right way , i did send computer to the guy you recommended and turn AFM off when i had it apart
I’m looking at a 2013 Silverado with misfire on cylinder 1. I was thinking if I get it, of taking off the valve covers and replacing all the lifters at once and then running one of those AFM disable modules that plugs into your OBD2 plug. In theory they should never collapse after that because the system just runs in “V8” mode after that. Would be cheaper than doing the full delete kit. What are your thoughts on that?
Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports, not sure is you seen my other AFM videos where I been fighting with this truck , it's not as simple as valve covers , have to remove heads to replace lifters. ,and I did what you are talking about (had my computer tuned so AFM disabled) and it still has a lite tick so I never actually put a tag on it to drive. Just kinda got parked outside my shop ,but it's to nice to let sit much longer but I have made my mind up to pull the engine so I can do cam bearings and full delete the correct way , you can try just lifters (afm style) but these engines are known for faulty cam bearings and its just a chance of luck if you try that way , I couldn't see any were on my cam lobes ,but the journals and bearings must have to much wear
You need to Rev it up to 10'000 RPMS for one minute for the engine to reset it's self 😂
lol. itll definitely reset itself🤣🤣
i did finally pull the engine and do it right recently including cam bearings and full delete the right way. she running clean and quiet now and feels like more power. heres that video if wanna check it out. and thanks for watching Vassmotorsports ruclips.net/video/cIJbEgCbxqo/видео.htmlsi=AXbm85jvgTp6aeXj
Have you tried an engine flush?
I actually did ,plus I put valve medic in first oil change, then changed again and added Engine Restore because I had that fix a Bronco 2 I had 25 years ago lifter started ticking so bad I thought it was gone and that immediately fixed it, also this engine is actually very clean inside for the mileage, thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching Vassmotorsports, in another video I change the lifters with new set but still a slight tick i dont trust ,so it's been sitting outside the shop and put on back burner, I want to eventually pull the motor and do cam bearings and full delete the right way ,to nice of a truck not to do her right
Thanks
good luck with your project, thanks for watching Vassmotorsports
Curious . With it still knocking did u fix it ? Looking at the motor the passenger side head had a noticeable gap between the head and block
Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports. It still has a slight tick I don't like so I never bothered putting a tag on it yet , there is definitely no gap between head and block lol, I plan on just pulling motor and putting new cam bearings and full delete with cam and lifters,with trays and plug the towers, I already have the AFM tuned out and pulled pan one day to block off the oil pressure valve and installed new oring on pick up screen
I have a 2005 avalanche . It's ticking off and on. Does oil pressure have anything to do with the ticking?
does ypur oil pressure stay decent even when the tick is happening or does it drop off ? that 05 doesn't have the AFM failure prone lifters. so one could be going bad , you could try an engine flush when you change oil next time and maybe step up the wieght to 10w40 if its high miles and if you only have 5w30 or something in it now , also ive used (engine restore) in silver bottle and its great ot even Lucas , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
Did you not test drive it before you bought it?
Yes and I knew it needed lifters ,I just thought would be an easy fix like a good old 350 , but I learned the hard way. Hell I have so many vehicles and projects she been sitting on back burner ever since. One of the new lifters still has slight tick and I don't trust putting a tag and I drive out of state alot so can't trust like that , I plan to pull the motor and do cam bearings and full delete the right way this time , it's to nice to let sit
My gmc sonoma 4.3 keeps coming loose after adjustment is perfect earlier, why are the rocker bolts backing themselves out. It's only a few cylinders doing it, I recall. Any suggestions to keep the rockers tight and torqued ?
That is a wierd scenario, only thing comes to mind I would clean hole and bolt with brake clean and blow out with air. Then put red lock tight , maybe even new bolts and should work , thanks for watching Vassmotorsports
Just bought a 5.3 for my 2009 Avalanche and it was 2450.00 with exchange. We had a lifter spun in ours. And it has 229900 miles on it.
Wow sorry to hear that. I would hope it had some type of warranty but still not a good situation to go thru all the trouble of installing just to find out there's a problem
Maybe I misunderstood, I guess your original went bad so you got a reman? How is the new motor running and who was it through?
Bought a Running 5.3 J series Running from a Salvage yard in Des Moines Ia with 113,000 miles on it and switched them out. I checked on a reman and they wanted between 4 to 5 thousand for one.
@@charlesdeaton7112 Oh, Dang cause I was gonna say for 2450. That wouldn't be too bad for a reman I might would buy one., But I'm also a cheap guy. And I need to just fix this one myself
ATF or MMO.
? Not sure what ya mean
Dude wants to make bare min repairs to get the truck going
Exactly right. I just want to hear the engine is ok and not the bottom end as it makes a hell of a loud noise sometimes, and check trans before spending money or time on my new to me truck
This dude really tring to sell somebody a lemon. 😅😅😅
Never
$1500 vehicle at auction
Dang I'd love to know where that kinda auction is , I know I paid up but it's in beautiful shape and I thought was gonna be easy lifter swap
#OperationLS
I think it has bad cam bearings and I'm gonna have to change them and do a delete cam and LS7 lifters
This could’ve been a 2 minute video you talked way too much about random stuff
Lol ,ok. Thanks for watching then and always love feedback
I thought everything was right on point after some history of the vehicle.
@class5bodyworks thank you and Thanks for watching Vassmotorsports, hope you check out some of my other videos
Some people just love to complain. Never good enough. People suck!
To sell it and its sombodys elses.problem 😂😂😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣 exactly what they did. But I thought I could get out cheap replacing lifters but still has little tick so guess I'll pull the motor one day and do cam bearings and full delete the right way cause it's so nice of a vehicle
Time for that hogg ass cam!
Haha. I considered doing cam and full delete but decided to take the easier less expensive route and replace stock style lifters( whole set and sent computer for afm delete) since cam still looks good and not 100% sure bottom end is ok and probably won't keep her but few months as I really wanted 4x4 but didn't want to pass this one up cause decent deal and beautiful condition
😅 I was wondering about that I have a 383 that I got a couple lifters that are done over and over tighten some other stuff so I'm going to try that are I think that'll be good
this will only work on these gen 4 LS engines with AFM. these are special lifters for those 4 cylinders so id imagine you would have a different problem with a 383 , and heads wont have to come off either. thanks for watching Vassmotorsports and hope ya check out some of my other videos sometime
You talk too much damit just show what you're doing
🤐
This dude a stright clown out here 🤣 this dude tring to sell somebody a lemon 🍋 lol
Guess you didn't listen or watch all the videos on this vehicle, I bought it this way for myself and it had a terrible noise so I wasn't gonna do full cam swap without knowing the bottom end was even any good or gonna have to do an engine swap. I was just trying to band aid so I could drive her and make sure everything else was good like trans and engine before getting deep into her and spending money. Pretty simple dude. I wound up doing new lifter set and runs good but has a slight tick so I'll pull engine one day and do cam bearings and full delete swap the right way now I know Nothing wrong with bottom end and no overheating or issues and she drives so nice , I wouldn't think of selling someone a known lemon. Check out some of my other videos and you'll figure that out, that's why I have people that only beg me to work on their stuff but rarely have the time for them
Yet here you are watching his video...SMH!