Awesome video man. Working on building an LT4, which from what it looks like is similar to LT1. Waiting to get some manuals but this gets me going. Appreciate it!
Did all this and more on my 17 C7Z 1150 wheel 416 stroker. 6 degrees offset is only to correct the LS3 cam sprocket timing. Could be the camera angle but your cam to crank sprocket marks did not line up perfectly. Degreeing the cam is still useful as not all cams are cut perfectly. Also when installing a larger fuel lobe on your cam you want to check lash on your HPFP. Make sure it doesn’t bottom out. Can destroy a $2k pump instantly. The billet timing chain dampener works great it’s not for keeping tension. I held 1150 wheel for almost 1.5 years now with zero issues. Katech HPFP you should push up a bit as gravity pulls down on the inner gears. Base idle pressure on that pump is around 28 to 34 psi. I ran a stock oil cooler delete kit with a front mount oil cooler. Pump kept pressure fine even with 13.5 quarts flowing. Kind of funny the stock oil pump is purple and looks identical to a Katech minus the red and logo. But yeah the internals are billet that’s where your beauty is. Also make sure your cam sensor is seated perfectly down. Don’t use RTV. If it’s a mm or two high it won’t register correctly off the cam and will throw codes or not run well. Good luck.
The one thing I need to add….. hold the handle of the torque wrench on the handle. Your torque specs are off when you’re holding it half way up the tool. Otherwise great video. I’ve subscribed
Wondering when and how you figured out you had the cam timing off by 1/2 a rotation and also you were using a concrete drill bit to drill that hole in the bullet cover plate. Good Video...
So technically, i could have left the cam as the cam rotates at 2 to 1 ratio with the crank. So even though i had it aiming to the sky i decided to refilm it aiming to the floor. As thats what lme suggests and i knew it would cause confusion and i would need to explain it so i reshot that piece of footage for piece of mind lol. The drill bit was a universal material bit :) (editing to add this was also my least favriote set of milwaukee bits as they are definitely more masonry then the metal and wood they claimed they were good for)
Nice , But you got the spring compressor wrong The longer stud with the handle goes above , holding the adapter , the small stud must touch the valve head , to keep the angle right and not bend the spring compressor With the handle on top, you will be able to crank it standing up
I quiet liked this one i know they make the screw down ones but have to be extra careful i have seen people strip the heads out and needing to re-tap them
I am currently building something very similar to this. I am just curious if you could help me out with a question. I have installed my crank and the bearings are for the supercharger.. I know there is a main thrust bearing for the crank but the return bearing is a standard one like the other 4? I know LS builds had a top and bottom thrust bearing. Just curious if thats how these LT builds are
Hey Rich, quick question for you just because I see that you’re very smart in this field, I plan on doing a DOD Delete to my LT4 that being said When I get the VVT delete is anything else needed besides that cover bolt and sprocket that comes in the kit? I’m going to use a DOD delete kit from BTR and valley cover just like you.
Nope just buy the btr cam, the lme timing cover kit which will also come with the nice timing chain guide. I would also recommend the upgraded katech timing chain and oil pump if you can stomach the cost, it will get more oil up into the lifters. Also im guessing you already know this but grab the gm racing non collapsing lifters or get the btr ones. Btr cam matched pushrods,springs retainers and keepers. If you want do a trunion kit to eliminate the needle bearings incase of failure it switchs them to a bushing that way you dont have needle bearings in your galleys if one fails. Hope that helps
How many engine builders will tell you , they were so excited to finish it and drive it , hear it run , they forgot to fill it up with oil ??? 😂😂 I seen someone do that one time ..
Use the Pushrod part number Specific to your Head/Head Gasket Thickness. Don't use this part number as a blind copy. Z51 or GrandSport Dry sump may have some additional parts. I know you're Canadian but Mahle is pronounce Molly. Chamfer not Chafer. Rudeness aside, great video with lots of detail. it takes time to make these for others. Well done.
Thanks, haha i drive allot of americans crazy especially when i say mazda! I consulted davenport Motorsports so we could line up the perfect combo and could cross my eyes and dot my tees on everything, lol
No need to degree cam with this cam and the lme ls3 sprocket it degrees cam by using timing markets(hope that makes sense) (lme timing cover kit) pushrods come made for this application and cam setup :) one could double check to be absolute certain of course.
You can do it in a 3 weeks tona month if the machine shop is line up and parts are ordered but some machine shops take 3-6 months so thats your main factor. Pull out in a day, disassembled in a couple hours, send block to machine shop with heads to get machined and hot tankeds. Give the machine shop your rotational assembly so they balance and do all clearances to a T (short block setup), when you get it back do your own timing and mount the heads on so forth only takes a couple hours at most, then a day or two, and shes ready to fire, off to the tuning shop which usually takes a few days to a few weeks depending on backlog. So shedule your machince shop and tuner and should be good
Can you do the DOD delete on the stock motor without doing any kind of tuning? Had a lifter fail and not sure if we are doimg stock oem or the DOD delete.
If i were you do the dod delete its hard on the whole driveline going into 4 cylinder mode and you can delete allot of rotational mass if you get rid of the vvt sprocket and go with the ls3 sprocket. Add in a nice cam to the mix and you will get not only better reliability but a nice horsepower gain. You will need a small tune but nothing major to delete dod and fully utilize the cam you wont regret it though since your already pulling it apart to swap lifter.
They do sell the 1/2 inch torque wrench as well. Could of been easier than the 3/8 . Since its longer and make it easier to turn . I know cause i work on 18 wheelers and that 1/2 inch is a life saver
Hate to be that guy but grab the tork wrench by the end of the handle you will get a wrong reading thats why you were struggling to get to 18 ft lbs on the back cover. Also thanks for the video I did learn a lot im new to lt and im about to rebuild a 6.2 myself for a c10 project.
Hey Rich, awesome video. Question I had, and assuming your cam had the 32% over fuel lobe, was whether you installed a LT4 high pressure fuel pump? And an LT4 lifter for the pump? If so, did you use a lash cap with that valley cover or not?
@@ghostlyrich Saved some money? My brother you already spent so much😂 anyway love the videos man, I haven’t watched the update ones on the twin turbo status yet. Are you planning LT4 high side pump or doing completely different fuel system and getting rid of Direct injection?
Thought about the leignfelter pump set up or there is another set up the guys have been running havent made a choice yet, just working on the fabrication for twin turbo kit. Excited man
Thats not a tensioner its a dampner to prevent the chain from breaking due whiplash its not meant to make the timing chain tight similiar to the ls2 dampner
The easy way to do that is to put a small piece of plastic over the retainer and the keepers on the end of the valve and when you compress the valve spring everything will go into place try it put the retainer on the valve and install the retainers and put the plastic over the end and compress it you will thank me later
Can't you disable AFM with a software hack alone? As long as it is still good, the pins never retracting and staying in the locked position basically prevents it from ever going bad, no? Also, I am surprised that for all the cost and effort that went into milling those pistons, they did not bead blast the tops to get rid of the sharp edges in the cutouts and dome which are generally not good for knock resistance,
Cp Carrillo engineering is pretty spot on with these systems they put together so i just go with the "flow" in this case lol. Since doing cam best to just use the gm racing non afm lifters to match so no chance of collapsing lifter failer later. Allot of people just do the software disable until they get in the motor and do a cam upgrade then best practice is to swap the lifters.
You degree cams to achieve intake and exhaust valve train timing, block imperfections are done with machining. Putting everything zeroed is quite simple crank and cam to the sky make sure block is level, confirm piston is tdc. In the case of this kit it says make sure cam and crank lines are facing each other.
Great vid explaining everything, especially updating us mid assembly on how to properly put the timing chain! For your crankshaft, did you go with something aftermarket, or did you just use the original one in the engine? Trying to make an LT1 bullet proof like yours soon!
When upgrading your cam for different lift and so on its common to delete the vvt functionality and takes allot of weight off the rotational assembly on the lt1
@ghostlyrich I'm about to preform my rebuild on my LT1 any suggestions on building it my engine. I'm going super charger so was to make sure it is built for the power. Thank you.
Since i was already getting the rotational assembly balanced they offered to put it in so the rings and bearings were in correct position. If you get your bearings and rings gapped and balanced to the block id get them to slap it in and usually you get a warranty as well
Man that's a terrible fit, I'd never use that junk... better off with a J-hook or that compressor you showed at the beginning. On the second valve you demonstrate with the "better camera angle" you're moving the valve, you can see it plain as day... doesn't take much to bend a valve dude. Terrible job bro, look how much further down the second valve is when installing its retainers compared to the first one you did. Use a pen magnet to install the retainers, when you magnetize them they fall right in place like a magnetic attraction lol... I couldn't make it much past the 13min mark ;) I wouldn't let you near any of my shit...
Engines running great, never bent a valve yet in the engines i built. Everyones got there own tricks for getting them in. I find them easier to do mine, seems you like the way you do yours. I wouldn’t want to touch your “shit”.
The best video I have ever seen as far as rebuilding, love the torque specs and such! A++++ video. Wish I could afford a rebuild like this! Great Job!
Excellent video. I love your attention to detail and no cutting corners.
I’m so grateful for these type of videos
Awesome video man. Working on building an LT4, which from what it looks like is similar to LT1. Waiting to get some manuals but this gets me going. Appreciate it!
Should be about the same just a bit different heads :)
Did all this and more on my 17 C7Z 1150 wheel 416 stroker. 6 degrees offset is only to correct the LS3 cam sprocket timing. Could be the camera angle but your cam to crank sprocket marks did not line up perfectly. Degreeing the cam is still useful as not all cams are cut perfectly. Also when installing a larger fuel lobe on your cam you want to check lash on your HPFP. Make sure it doesn’t bottom out. Can destroy a $2k pump instantly. The billet timing chain dampener works great it’s not for keeping tension. I held 1150 wheel for almost 1.5 years now with zero issues. Katech HPFP you should push up a bit as gravity pulls down on the inner gears. Base idle pressure on that pump is around 28 to 34 psi. I ran a stock oil cooler delete kit with a front mount oil cooler. Pump kept pressure fine even with 13.5 quarts flowing. Kind of funny the stock oil pump is purple and looks identical to a Katech minus the red and logo. But yeah the internals are billet that’s where your beauty is. Also make sure your cam sensor is seated perfectly down. Don’t use RTV. If it’s a mm or two high it won’t register correctly off the cam and will throw codes or not run well.
Good luck.
Thanks so much for all the info i will definitely look into the katech as a hpfp since i want to do fuel system next well twin turboing
@@ghostlyrichcontact me anytime I have done Holley Port, 416 stroker (2 of them), practically every mod imaginable for the LT platform
I can’t thank you enough for making this video, it’s very informative!!!
Glad it helped!
I was hoping you had some links in your video description of some of the tools that you’re using like that torque wrench ratchet.lol
All videos should be like this thanks.
for $600-$700 you'd think LME could put the plastic wire management clips on the inside of the cover
30:33 caught you slipping 😂 Mopar? That’s how you know that silicone was pissing you off. 😂
Lol so much silicone on the lt motor
The one thing I need to add….. hold the handle of the torque wrench on the handle. Your torque specs are off when you’re holding it half way up the tool. Otherwise great video. I’ve subscribed
Thanks for the feed back
Is this advice followed in all sizes of torque wrenches or only the long ones with big ranges ?
Wondering when and how you figured out you had the cam timing off by 1/2 a rotation and also you were using a concrete drill bit to drill that hole in the bullet cover plate. Good Video...
So technically, i could have left the cam as the cam rotates at 2 to 1 ratio with the crank. So even though i had it aiming to the sky i decided to refilm it aiming to the floor. As thats what lme suggests and i knew it would cause confusion and i would need to explain it so i reshot that piece of footage for piece of mind lol.
The drill bit was a universal material bit :) (editing to add this was also my least favriote set of milwaukee bits as they are definitely more masonry then the metal and wood they claimed they were good for)
@@ghostlyrich Ok cool still a good video. Thanks for making it..
With ARP bolts I think there are 3 steps to torque the cylinder head bolts. There is no degree with them.
You definitely can, the degrees were more to show both arp users and other bolt manufacturer users how to do the head bolts step, more universal :)
Nice ,
But you got the spring compressor wrong
The longer stud with the handle goes above , holding the adapter , the small stud must touch the valve head , to keep the angle right and not bend the spring compressor
With the handle on top, you will be able to crank it standing up
Thanks for the info im new to this kit was a quick amazon by haha
They make such better spring compression tools
I quiet liked this one i know they make the screw down ones but have to be extra careful i have seen people strip the heads out and needing to re-tap them
Great video!
How did you run your PCV system since the new valley plate doesn't include that?
If you look at my mighty mouse oil catch can video i go over the current most up to date way im running pcv system
I am currently building something very similar to this. I am just curious if you could help me out with a question. I have installed my crank and the bearings are for the supercharger.. I know there is a main thrust bearing for the crank but the return bearing is a standard one like the other 4? I know LS builds had a top and bottom thrust bearing. Just curious if thats how these LT builds are
Hey Rich, quick question for you just because I see that you’re very smart in this field, I plan on doing a DOD Delete to my LT4 that being said
When I get the VVT delete is anything else needed besides that cover bolt and sprocket that comes in the kit? I’m going to use a DOD delete kit from BTR and valley cover just like you.
Nope just buy the btr cam, the lme timing cover kit which will also come with the nice timing chain guide. I would also recommend the upgraded katech timing chain and oil pump if you can stomach the cost, it will get more oil up into the lifters. Also im guessing you already know this but grab the gm racing non collapsing lifters or get the btr ones. Btr cam matched pushrods,springs retainers and keepers. If you want do a trunion kit to eliminate the needle bearings incase of failure it switchs them to a bushing that way you dont have needle bearings in your galleys if one fails. Hope that helps
Did you upgrade your valves? If so, what did you use?
No valve upgrades just all supporting pieces. Springs, keepers, retainers, trunions, pushrods, etc
How many engine builders will tell you , they were so excited to finish it and drive it , hear it run , they forgot to fill it up with oil ??? 😂😂
I seen someone do that one time ..
Use the Pushrod part number Specific to your Head/Head Gasket Thickness. Don't use this part number as a blind copy. Z51 or GrandSport Dry sump may have some additional parts. I know you're Canadian but Mahle is pronounce Molly. Chamfer not Chafer. Rudeness aside, great video with lots of detail. it takes time to make these for others. Well done.
Thanks, haha i drive allot of americans crazy especially when i say mazda! I consulted davenport Motorsports so we could line up the perfect combo and could cross my eyes and dot my tees on everything, lol
Does the timing chain have a mark or the chain can go anywhere? I know on my v6 g8 the chains have marks. Its 3 chains lol
No timing chain marker in this case, always wanted a g8 v8 to play with lol
@ everyone thinks mines a v8 by the wheels and tails lol
wheres the cam degree install? didnt see zero lash on the rockers didnt see any measuring for proper pushrod length.
No need to degree cam with this cam and the lme ls3 sprocket it degrees cam by using timing markets(hope that makes sense) (lme timing cover kit) pushrods come made for this application and cam setup :) one could double check to be absolute certain of course.
Great video. From pulling out the engine to new start up how long did it take you?
You can do it in a 3 weeks tona month if the machine shop is line up and parts are ordered but some machine shops take 3-6 months so thats your main factor. Pull out in a day, disassembled in a couple hours, send block to machine shop with heads to get machined and hot tankeds. Give the machine shop your rotational assembly so they balance and do all clearances to a T (short block setup), when you get it back do your own timing and mount the heads on so forth only takes a couple hours at most, then a day or two, and shes ready to fire, off to the tuning shop which usually takes a few days to a few weeks depending on backlog. So shedule your machince shop and tuner and should be good
For me was close to 5-6 months from.delays
Can you do the DOD delete on the stock motor without doing any kind of tuning? Had a lifter fail and not sure if we are doimg stock oem or the DOD delete.
If i were you do the dod delete its hard on the whole driveline going into 4 cylinder mode and you can delete allot of rotational mass if you get rid of the vvt sprocket and go with the ls3 sprocket. Add in a nice cam to the mix and you will get not only better reliability but a nice horsepower gain. You will need a small tune but nothing major to delete dod and fully utilize the cam you wont regret it though since your already pulling it apart to swap lifter.
They do sell the 1/2 inch torque wrench as well. Could of been easier than the 3/8 . Since its longer and make it easier to turn . I know cause i work on 18 wheelers and that 1/2 inch is a life saver
can this engine be installed in a 2016 chevy Silverado? to replace the l86
Hate to be that guy but grab the tork wrench by the end of the handle you will get a wrong reading thats why you were struggling to get to 18 ft lbs on the back cover. Also thanks for the video I did learn a lot im new to lt and im about to rebuild a 6.2 myself for a c10 project.
Nice man have fun. They are a nice easy engine to work on
What does the wire harness behind the timing cover goto ? And what it is there for? And you not use it
I did plug it in and use it. That is your oil pump sensor harness
Wow I wish I had known about that cam. I put TSP in mine that 10lbs is probably going to make a big difference.
When assembling the valve train, do you know what "These" and "Those" are?
Are you talking about the retainers, the keepers, the valve springs the valve seats and the shimes?
Hey Rich, awesome video.
Question I had, and assuming your cam had the 32% over fuel lobe, was whether you installed a LT4 high pressure fuel pump? And an LT4 lifter for the pump?
If so, did you use a lash cap with that valley cover or not?
i did not upgrade to the lt4 fuel pump. saved the money until i do a whole new fuel system. hope that helps
@@ghostlyrich Saved some money? My brother you already spent so much😂 anyway love the videos man, I haven’t watched the update ones on the twin turbo status yet.
Are you planning LT4 high side pump or doing completely different fuel system and getting rid of Direct injection?
Thought about the leignfelter pump set up or there is another set up the guys have been running havent made a choice yet, just working on the fabrication for twin turbo kit. Excited man
What brand of torque wrench are you using?
Snap on for most of it.
Thats not a tensioner its a dampner to prevent the chain from breaking due whiplash its not meant to make the timing chain tight similiar to the ls2 dampner
What can gear did you use ?
Cam gear ? Ls3 come with lme timing cover and timing chain
thank you! great detailed video.
The easy way to do that is to put a small piece of plastic over the retainer and the keepers on the end of the valve and when you compress the valve spring everything will go into place try it put the retainer on the valve and install the retainers and put the plastic over the end and compress it you will thank me later
Can't you disable AFM with a software hack alone? As long as it is still good, the pins never retracting and staying in the locked position basically prevents it from ever going bad, no? Also, I am surprised that for all the cost and effort that went into milling those pistons, they did not bead blast the tops to get rid of the sharp edges in the cutouts and dome which are generally not good for knock resistance,
Cp Carrillo engineering is pretty spot on with these systems they put together so i just go with the "flow" in this case lol.
Since doing cam best to just use the gm racing non afm lifters to match so no chance of collapsing lifter failer later. Allot of people just do the software disable until they get in the motor and do a cam upgrade then best practice is to swap the lifters.
With all the problems these newer engine have, i think I would use an old 327 for a project engine.
Why didn’t you degree the cam?
No need. Lme timing cover kit has a cam sprocket that locks it in a 6 degree off set
The reason you degree you cam is because every block is different so you degree it to put everything on 0
You degree cams to achieve intake and exhaust valve train timing, block imperfections are done with machining. Putting everything zeroed is quite simple crank and cam to the sky make sure block is level, confirm piston is tdc. In the case of this kit it says make sure cam and crank lines are facing each other.
Struggling with 56FT Pounds... we are sooo doomed!
Great vid explaining everything, especially updating us mid assembly on how to properly put the timing chain!
For your crankshaft, did you go with something aftermarket, or did you just use the original one in the engine? Trying to make an LT1 bullet proof like yours soon!
I went with a BTR stage one cam to match the pushrods, valve springs and retainers. As they are all btr as well.
Thanks for the video
Thank you!
Why would you want to delete the VVT?
When upgrading your cam for different lift and so on its common to delete the vvt functionality and takes allot of weight off the rotational assembly on the lt1
@@ghostlyrich Ah, got it. Thanks.
@ghostlyrich
I'm about to preform my rebuild on my LT1 any suggestions on building it my engine. I'm going super charger so was to make sure it is built for the power. Thank you.
Was hoping this covered the rotating assembly from the title and length
Since i was already getting the rotational assembly balanced they offered to put it in so the rings and bearings were in correct position. If you get your bearings and rings gapped and balanced to the block id get them to slap it in and usually you get a warranty as well
Unless your balancing and gapping the rings your self then good on yea lol
Yea how about that !! 😂
Man that's a terrible fit, I'd never use that junk... better off with a J-hook or that compressor you showed at the beginning. On the second valve you demonstrate with the "better camera angle" you're moving the valve, you can see it plain as day... doesn't take much to bend a valve dude. Terrible job bro, look how much further down the second valve is when installing its retainers compared to the first one you did.
Use a pen magnet to install the retainers, when you magnetize them they fall right in place like a magnetic attraction lol... I couldn't make it much past the 13min mark ;)
I wouldn't let you near any of my shit...
Engines running great, never bent a valve yet in the engines i built. Everyones got there own tricks for getting them in. I find them easier to do mine, seems you like the way you do yours.
I wouldn’t want to touch your “shit”.
Spring retainer looks like they are installed upside down.
Gives off the illusion other side is set to hold both spring in certain position