I have a 2015 Grand Caravan that had the oil pump problem Had the oil pump and sensor replaced this past January at dealership for 1800.00. They found the oil cooler leaking and wanted an additional 1300.00 to change it. Didn't let them replace it. Last week the PO520 code popped up, dealership wants 1400.00 to replace the oil cooler and the sensor. The engine also has a valve train tick that will eventually cost as much as 3000.00 plus. Before the van started having these issues we were looking to get a newer Pacifica, but with the history of this engine and talking with the dealership service manager this is the last Chrysler product I will buy. My daughters friend had a Ram with this same engine and had to replace both heads at a cost of 8000.00. I still have my 2004 Ram which has been a good truck that is now mostly only used on the farm. I have owned Chrysler products since 1976.
Hello friend, thanks for sharing your story. Sorry to hear the rough time you've been having. I avoid dealer repair shops, use as an absolute LAST resort. The caravan shown in the video is the second caravan I've owned, and both caravans I owned for over 10 years each and used very heavily. They have been good vehicles, with their occasional issues. I probably won't buy the Pacifica either, not because of any bad issues, but because we no longer need such a big passenger vehicle now that the kids have grown up. In fact, I drove a Pacifica Hybrid for one week on a long-distance trip across the country about a year ago, and absolutely loved it. I loved it so much that I would have definitely bought one, if I needed it. It was very pleasant, spacious, and fun to drive on a long trip, with good gas mileage, 36 mpg average. Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our channel! By the way, I still have my 2011 caravan, drive it to work everyday. I wouldn't take it on a trip though, too old now, 225,000 miles now. But still working strong.
Thank you sooo much for posting! The only other video I watched showed a guy removing the entire intake manifold to get to it! This is going to save so much time and work!!
Torque Spec for sensor : 177 INCH pounds ,,,do not guess,, this what breaks the oil cooler housing ,, BTW torque spec for oil filter cap is 18 FOOT pounds,,, over tightening can also crack plastic oil cooler housing call Chrysler dealer if you want/need to verify,,,,
Excellent video, just completed the repair and the code is gone. It was difficult to get socket on as the hose clamp was right against it. I had sent away for the thin walled socket but it wasn't thin enough. So I ground the outside of the socket to make it even thinner. Also bought the Mopar sensor as recommended. Thanks for the excellent video especially getting good shots with the lighting to see exactly what was going on down there.
So those oil filter housings/oil coolers are prone to leaking, cracking & failures on the 3.6L. Much better off to replace the entire assembly with aftermarket aluminum housing. The sensor & socket alone are more than 1/2 the cost of the $120-130 assembly complete. Just a thought
the Dodge dealer Dodge and Chrysler in Visalia wants $2,000 to do that another mechanic wants $600 to do that and he said it was on the inside the engine so thank you
🤣🤣 What? You never heard of a 1" and 1 and 1/16th socket? At the store you can usually find them next to the left-handed screwdrivers, the metric hammers, the doorbell fluid, the buckets of compressed air, or the tubes of adhesive lubricant. 😂 Check out the other videos on our channel. Thanks for watching!
Could this be the reason I'm loosing power it's throwing my computer off keeping me at kinda hi rpms but very little excelleration, not to high but stays at over 2 k even when cruising
Hello there. I doubt that high rpm's while cruising is being caused by an oil sensor. Do you have any engine trouble codes? A quick tune-up might be in order to get the car running right again. You can change the spark plugs, swap out the air filter and possibly add a fuel injector cleaner to see what happens. However, some of the other problems are tough to diagnose and more difficult to repair. Here are the most common reasons for high rpm's while driving: 1. Defective Transmission The transmission handles all of the gear shifting. If there’s a problem with the automatic transmission, the shifting could become irregular or delayed. It’s also possible that there’s a transmission leak. When the fluid levels fall below normal, the engine could rev at higher levels because the torque converter will not function properly. 2. Malfunctioning Crankshaft Position Sensor A faulty crankshaft sensor affects the engine timing negatively. As it controls the timing, the RPMs will fluctuate. Also, the engine control module and the tachometer (RPM) on your dashboard use the crankshaft position sensor to measure the engine speed. If there is something wrong with the engine crankshaft position sensor or the wirings, you can see a fluctuating RPM speed. You might also notice that the bad crankshaft sensor causes stalling, trouble starting and added vibration. Get this problem repaired before you are left stranded. Some car models use the camshaft position sensor, so it shouldn’t be overlooked. Use an OBD2 scanner and look for any related trouble codes. 3. Fouled Spark Plugs or Coils The spark plugs are used to ignite the air and fuel mixture entering the combustion chamber. Once the plugs are worn, engine misfires can occur, leading to engine vibration. This vibration can cause RPM fluctuations and it will feel like the engine has a mind of its own. You may also notice poor acceleration, a drop in fuel economy and jerking. Spark plugs may need to be replaced as early as 30,000 miles, depending on what type you choose. You also want to take a look at the ignition coils, as these ignite the spark plugs and are known to fail quite often due to the engine heat. If you have an older car, you want to check the distributor cap and the spark plug wires instead. 4. Vacuum Leak It’s always possible that the fluctuation has to do with an engine vacuum leak, especially if it occurs while accelerating. When there’s a vacuum leak, the engine’s air supply gets interrupted. You might notice RPM fluctuation, as well as reduced fuel efficiency, the Check Engine Light, a rough idle and a hissing noise. A vacuum leak can cause the vehicle to stall, leaving you stranded, so don’t wait to get it looked at. Vacuum leaks are normally found around the intake manifold and are often caused by cracked vacuum hoses. It can also be a leaking intake manifold gasket between the cylinder head and the intake manifold. 5. Dirty Fuel Injectors Fuel injectors allow the engine to receive the fuel needed to run properly. However, over time, debris and dirt can clog the injectors. When this happens, the fuel delivery is obstructed, leading to starvation of the engine. Not only will clogged injectors cause fluctuating RPMs, but the car can also become jerky. It may also not accelerate the way you expect it to. However, bad spark plugs and vacuum leaks create many of the same symptoms, making it difficult to diagnose. 6. Bad Throttle Position Sensor If you have a bad TPS, the car can accelerate on its own with an electric throttle body, whether you are pushing on the gas pedal or not. This creates an RPM fluctuation that becomes noticeable. Additional symptoms include misfiring and trouble starting the engine. As the problem gets worse, you might not be able to get the car moving, so don’t overlook problems. It can also be the throttle body itself that is damaged, or just dirty so it can often be cleaned without replacing it. Another reason may be the pedal position sensor, which sends electrical signals to the throttle control on how much acceleration to apply. However, it is not very common, but should not be overlooked. 7. Dirty Air Filter The fuel inside the combustion chamber must mix with the appropriate amount of air to create power. The air filter traps contaminants, ensuring that the air entering the engine is clean. If the filter isn’t changed, it can become clogged, which stops air from entering the engine. Not only will this cause engine RPM fluctuations, but it can also lead to a delay in accelerating. Thankfully, it’s one of the easiest fixes to perform. 8. Bad tachometer (RPM meter) Although it is quite rare for the tachometer to be damaged, it can happen on some car models so it should not be overlooked. The tachometer is integrated into the instrument cluster of modern cars, so if it is damaged, you may need to replace the entire cluster. But since it is so rare that the tachometer is bad and a new cluster is quite expensive, you should look at the wirings and look for other problems with a code scanner first. How to Fix RPM Fluctuation At the first sign of RPM fluctuation, you want to have the problem looked at. If you are mechanically inclined, there’s no need to visit a shop unless you can’t complete the repair. If the Check Engine Light is on, you want to start by reading the diagnostic trouble codes to see if that shows you the problem. You will need special tools to diagnose and repair a vacuum leak, transmission problems and issues with the sensors. In these cases, it might be best to visit your local auto repair shop. Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our channel!
Hello I have grand caravan 2013 Crew I changed the oil and (everything is OEM from dodge) i hear brief rattle about 1-2 seconds on cold start and on 15 minutes sitting after shopping (warm start) almost like grinding noise no leak from drain plug or dash lights please help. Thank you!
Did you have any trouble getting the socket to fit over the plastic part of the sensor? I bought the Amazon 1 1/16" deep well socket. It looks just like the one you have, but getting the socket over the plastic part and onto the six sided metal part of the sensor isn't working too well. It almost seems like there's not enough room inside the socket for the plastic part.
Hello there! So no, we have not had any issues getting the socket to fit over the plastic part of the sensor. Sounds like ours is slightly deeper. Sorry to hear, but what I love about Amazon is... returns are easy. Look up oil pressure sensor socket on Amazon, and a deep enough one should pop up in the search results. I hope you got it on! Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our channel!
Thank you for the reply. I actually bought the deep well socket which Amazon recommended and said "is often bought" with the sensor. I ended up slightly modifying the plastic part with a file to get it to fit into the socket. Sensor replaced, all is well. Thank you again. And Happy Thanksgiving !@@mikesbackyardmechanic
I found this on an Amazon review. Hope this helps. “bought this for a '16 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6L - worked great - no issues - had to get a LISLE 13200 equivalent for install - LISLE 13250 is too long - very little room to work with for the '16 Grand Caravan...”
Hello... Other day i had check engine light came on..checked and showed code p06dd .. but I had another thing happened which I noticed is that normally on highway going 100 km /hr my rpm were around 1600 and after the engine light and code they are sitting around 2200 ...can that oil pressure make the rpm affected by it.. ?? Any suggestions will be appreciated
Certainly! Let’s explore the relationship between oil pressure and engine RPM. Oil pressure does indeed change with RPM. It’s created by the oil pump, which circulates oil through the engine to lubricate its components. As the RPM increases, the oil pump operates faster, resulting in higher oil pressure. Now, regarding your specific situation, the increase in RPM you’ve noticed could be due to various factors, including the engine management system adjusting parameters in response to the check engine light. However, oil pressure alone typically doesn’t directly affect RPM. Instead, it’s more related to engine load, throttle position, and other factors. The P06DD diagnostic trouble code (DTC) stands for “Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Stuck Off.” It indicates a detected issue in the engine oil pressure control system. Specifically, the engine oil pressure sensor is sending a message to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) that the oil pressure is below the acceptable level, affecting the normal operation of the oil pump. To rectify, you could follow the suggestions in our video, start with an oil and filter change with the correct oil type. Change the oil pressure sensor switch. And finally, if that doesn't work, you may need to change the other oil pressure sensor in the oil pump as shown at the end of our video. However, I would not wait too long to get it serviced, ignoring this code and continuing to drive the vehicle can potentially lead to serious engine damage. Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our RUclips channel!
My grand caravan 2008 turn on the oil light (it is red color in dashboard), after some minutes when it warms up it turn off. Can someone here tell what happen there? Thank you
Hello there. The following can be the reasons why the oil light is on when the engine is cold: Low level of oil Using oil of the wrong viscosity Old and worn-out oil Faulty oil pressure sensor Clogged air filter Old and worn-out oil pump Hope it helps! Thanks for watching our RUclips channel!
why replace either sensor ? especially the pump sensor. what does the pump sensor tell you ? I guess not enough pressure ? but the oil pressure sensor does the same ? I don't get it
Hello there! I ASKED THE SAME QUESTION! And you know what the answer was??? It was the ONLY way to get the engine light off so I could pass inspection, and in my state, if you don't pass inspection, you lose your license plates. SOOO there you go! The car runs fine, but we have to replace the ridiculous sensor in order to drive the car legally. Talk about the tail wagging the dog!! Yes, I'm frustrated too bud. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@mikesbackyardmechanicthe pentastar has a dual stage oil pump. The solenoid on the pump controls the pump going from high to low stage. you can change just the solenoid without changing the whole oil pump
@mackamericanbullies2806 Please post us a video on how to replace just the solenoid. Because the dealership sure won't do it that way for you, they said the only solution was to replace the entire oil pump. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello there! Make sure the socket is firmly seated properly all the way on to the metal base of the sensor. It is a very tight fit because of adjacent hoses. Did you get the thinner walled special sensor socket I mentioned in the video and in the description of the RUclips page? I hope you get it off. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello there! Were you able to view the bonus information at the end of this video? If not, I encourage you to watch it. There is a sensor on the oil pump that causes error codes P06DA and P06DE when it malfunctions. This sensor is integral with the oil pump and can only be replaced by replacing the entire oil pump. 😩 (Thanks Dodge) Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have a 2015 Grand Caravan that had the oil pump problem Had the oil pump and sensor replaced this past January at dealership for 1800.00. They found the oil cooler leaking and wanted an additional 1300.00 to change it. Didn't let them replace it. Last week the PO520 code popped up, dealership wants 1400.00 to replace the oil cooler and the sensor. The engine also has a valve train tick that will eventually cost as much as 3000.00 plus. Before the van started having these issues we were looking to get a newer Pacifica, but with the history of this engine and talking with the dealership service manager this is the last Chrysler product I will buy. My daughters friend had a Ram with this same engine and had to replace both heads at a cost of 8000.00. I still have my 2004 Ram which has been a good truck that is now mostly only used on the farm. I have owned Chrysler products since 1976.
Hello friend, thanks for sharing your story. Sorry to hear the rough time you've been having. I avoid dealer repair shops, use as an absolute LAST resort. The caravan shown in the video is the second caravan I've owned, and both caravans I owned for over 10 years each and used very heavily. They have been good vehicles, with their occasional issues. I probably won't buy the Pacifica either, not because of any bad issues, but because we no longer need such a big passenger vehicle now that the kids have grown up. In fact, I drove a Pacifica Hybrid for one week on a long-distance trip across the country about a year ago, and absolutely loved it. I loved it so much that I would have definitely bought one, if I needed it. It was very pleasant, spacious, and fun to drive on a long trip, with good gas mileage, 36 mpg average. Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our channel!
By the way, I still have my 2011 caravan, drive it to work everyday. I wouldn't take it on a trip though, too old now, 225,000 miles now. But still working strong.
Thank you sooo much for posting! The only other video I watched showed a guy removing the entire intake manifold to get to it! This is going to save so much time and work!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing to our channel!
Bruhhhhhhh I seen the same one and it was time lapse!!! This video is gold
Torque Spec for sensor : 177 INCH pounds ,,,do not guess,, this what breaks the oil cooler housing ,, BTW torque spec for oil filter cap is 18 FOOT pounds,,, over tightening can also crack plastic oil cooler housing call Chrysler dealer if you want/need to verify,,,,
I normally dislike music, but yours was compatible. Nice
Excellent video, just completed the repair and the code is gone. It was difficult to get socket on as the hose clamp was right against it. I had sent away for the thin walled socket but it wasn't thin enough. So I ground the outside of the socket to make it even thinner. Also bought the Mopar sensor as recommended. Thanks for the excellent video especially getting good shots with the lighting to see exactly what was going on down there.
Glad it helped and got you rolling again! Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our channel!
So those oil filter housings/oil coolers are prone to leaking, cracking & failures on the 3.6L. Much better off to replace the entire assembly with aftermarket aluminum housing. The sensor & socket alone are more than 1/2 the cost of the $120-130 assembly complete. Just a thought
the Dodge dealer Dodge and Chrysler in Visalia wants $2,000 to do that another mechanic wants $600 to do that and he said it was on the inside the engine so thank you
Would you say P06DD can also be fixed by changing the sensor?
I love how you say the size of the socket
🤣🤣 What? You never heard of a 1" and 1 and 1/16th socket? At the store you can usually find them next to the left-handed screwdrivers, the metric hammers, the doorbell fluid, the buckets of compressed air, or the tubes of adhesive lubricant. 😂 Check out the other videos on our channel. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the guidance!!!
Could this be the reason I'm loosing power it's throwing my computer off keeping me at kinda hi rpms but very little excelleration, not to high but stays at over 2 k even when cruising
Hello there. I doubt that high rpm's while cruising is being caused by an oil sensor. Do you have any engine trouble codes? A quick tune-up might be in order to get the car running right again. You can change the spark plugs, swap out the air filter and possibly add a fuel injector cleaner to see what happens. However, some of the other problems are tough to diagnose and more difficult to repair. Here are the most common reasons for high rpm's while driving:
1. Defective Transmission
The transmission handles all of the gear shifting. If there’s a problem with the automatic transmission, the shifting could become irregular or delayed. It’s also possible that there’s a transmission leak. When the fluid levels fall below normal, the engine could rev at higher levels because the torque converter will not function properly.
2. Malfunctioning Crankshaft Position Sensor
A faulty crankshaft sensor affects the engine timing negatively. As it controls the timing, the RPMs will fluctuate. Also, the engine control module and the tachometer (RPM) on your dashboard use the crankshaft position sensor to measure the engine speed. If there is something wrong with the engine crankshaft position sensor or the wirings, you can see a fluctuating RPM speed.
You might also notice that the bad crankshaft sensor causes stalling, trouble starting and added vibration. Get this problem repaired before you are left stranded. Some car models use the camshaft position sensor, so it shouldn’t be overlooked. Use an OBD2 scanner and look for any related trouble codes.
3. Fouled Spark Plugs or Coils
The spark plugs are used to ignite the air and fuel mixture entering the combustion chamber. Once the plugs are worn, engine misfires can occur, leading to engine vibration.
This vibration can cause RPM fluctuations and it will feel like the engine has a mind of its own. You may also notice poor acceleration, a drop in fuel economy and jerking. Spark plugs may need to be replaced as early as 30,000 miles, depending on what type you choose.
You also want to take a look at the ignition coils, as these ignite the spark plugs and are known to fail quite often due to the engine heat. If you have an older car, you want to check the distributor cap and the spark plug wires instead.
4. Vacuum Leak
It’s always possible that the fluctuation has to do with an engine vacuum leak, especially if it occurs while accelerating. When there’s a vacuum leak, the engine’s air supply gets interrupted.
You might notice RPM fluctuation, as well as reduced fuel efficiency, the Check Engine Light, a rough idle and a hissing noise. A vacuum leak can cause the vehicle to stall, leaving you stranded, so don’t wait to get it looked at.
Vacuum leaks are normally found around the intake manifold and are often caused by cracked vacuum hoses. It can also be a leaking intake manifold gasket between the cylinder head and the intake manifold.
5. Dirty Fuel Injectors
Fuel injectors allow the engine to receive the fuel needed to run properly. However, over time, debris and dirt can clog the injectors. When this happens, the fuel delivery is obstructed, leading to starvation of the engine.
Not only will clogged injectors cause fluctuating RPMs, but the car can also become jerky. It may also not accelerate the way you expect it to. However, bad spark plugs and vacuum leaks create many of the same symptoms, making it difficult to diagnose.
6. Bad Throttle Position Sensor
If you have a bad TPS, the car can accelerate on its own with an electric throttle body, whether you are pushing on the gas pedal or not. This creates an RPM fluctuation that becomes noticeable.
Additional symptoms include misfiring and trouble starting the engine. As the problem gets worse, you might not be able to get the car moving, so don’t overlook problems.
It can also be the throttle body itself that is damaged, or just dirty so it can often be cleaned without replacing it. Another reason may be the pedal position sensor, which sends electrical signals to the throttle control on how much acceleration to apply. However, it is not very common, but should not be overlooked.
7. Dirty Air Filter
The fuel inside the combustion chamber must mix with the appropriate amount of air to create power. The air filter traps contaminants, ensuring that the air entering the engine is clean.
If the filter isn’t changed, it can become clogged, which stops air from entering the engine. Not only will this cause engine RPM fluctuations, but it can also lead to a delay in accelerating. Thankfully, it’s one of the easiest fixes to perform.
8. Bad tachometer (RPM meter)
Although it is quite rare for the tachometer to be damaged, it can happen on some car models so it should not be overlooked. The tachometer is integrated into the instrument cluster of modern cars, so if it is damaged, you may need to replace the entire cluster.
But since it is so rare that the tachometer is bad and a new cluster is quite expensive, you should look at the wirings and look for other problems with a code scanner first.
How to Fix RPM Fluctuation
At the first sign of RPM fluctuation, you want to have the problem looked at. If you are mechanically inclined, there’s no need to visit a shop unless you can’t complete the repair. If the Check Engine Light is on, you want to start by reading the diagnostic trouble codes to see if that shows you the problem.
You will need special tools to diagnose and repair a vacuum leak, transmission problems and issues with the sensors. In these cases, it might be best to visit your local auto repair shop.
Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our channel!
Thank you!!!
Hello I have grand caravan 2013 Crew I changed the oil and (everything is OEM from dodge) i hear brief rattle about 1-2 seconds on cold start and on 15 minutes sitting after shopping (warm start) almost like grinding noise no leak from drain plug or dash lights please help.
Thank you!
Did you have any trouble getting the socket to fit over the plastic part of the sensor? I bought the Amazon 1 1/16" deep well socket. It looks just like the one you have, but getting the socket over the plastic part and onto the six sided metal part of the sensor isn't working too well. It almost seems like there's not enough room inside the socket for the plastic part.
Hello there! So no, we have not had any issues getting the socket to fit over the plastic part of the sensor. Sounds like ours is slightly deeper. Sorry to hear, but what I love about Amazon is... returns are easy. Look up oil pressure sensor socket on Amazon, and a deep enough one should pop up in the search results. I hope you got it on! Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our channel!
Thank you for the reply. I actually bought the deep well socket which Amazon recommended and said "is often bought" with the sensor. I ended up slightly modifying the plastic part with a file to get it to fit into the socket. Sensor replaced, all is well.
Thank you again. And Happy Thanksgiving !@@mikesbackyardmechanic
I found this on an Amazon review. Hope this helps.
“bought this for a '16 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6L - worked great - no issues - had to get a LISLE 13200 equivalent for install - LISLE 13250 is too long - very little room to work with for the '16 Grand Caravan...”
Hello... Other day i had check engine light came on..checked and showed code p06dd .. but I had another thing happened which I noticed is that normally on highway going 100 km /hr my rpm were around 1600 and after the engine light and code they are sitting around 2200 ...can that oil pressure make the rpm affected by it.. ?? Any suggestions will be appreciated
Certainly! Let’s explore the relationship between oil pressure and engine RPM.
Oil pressure does indeed change with RPM. It’s created by the oil pump, which circulates oil through the engine to lubricate its components. As the RPM increases, the oil pump operates faster, resulting in higher oil pressure.
Now, regarding your specific situation, the increase in RPM you’ve noticed could be due to various factors, including the engine management system adjusting parameters in response to the check engine light. However, oil pressure alone typically doesn’t directly affect RPM. Instead, it’s more related to engine load, throttle position, and other factors.
The P06DD diagnostic trouble code (DTC) stands for “Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Stuck Off.” It indicates a detected issue in the engine oil pressure control system. Specifically, the engine oil pressure sensor is sending a message to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) that the oil pressure is below the acceptable level, affecting the normal operation of the oil pump.
To rectify, you could follow the suggestions in our video, start with an oil and filter change with the correct oil type. Change the oil pressure sensor switch. And finally, if that doesn't work, you may need to change the other oil pressure sensor in the oil pump as shown at the end of our video. However, I would not wait too long to get it serviced, ignoring this code and continuing to drive the vehicle can potentially lead to serious engine damage.
Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our RUclips channel!
Do you have any link for socket in Amazon. Thank you
Hi do you have the link for the socket
My grand caravan 2008 turn on the oil light (it is red color in dashboard), after some minutes when it warms up it turn off. Can someone here tell what happen there? Thank you
Hello there. The following can be the reasons why the oil light is on when the engine is cold:
Low level of oil
Using oil of the wrong viscosity
Old and worn-out oil
Faulty oil pressure sensor
Clogged air filter
Old and worn-out oil pump
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching our RUclips channel!
Do you have a link.for the socket on Amazon
When installing the sensor, did you mean parallel to the hose, not perpendicular?
Hello there! YES, PARALLEL, LOL! Good catch! Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing to our channel.
why replace either sensor ? especially the pump sensor. what does the pump sensor tell you ? I guess not enough pressure ? but the oil pressure sensor does the same ? I don't get it
Hello there! I ASKED THE SAME QUESTION! And you know what the answer was??? It was the ONLY way to get the engine light off so I could pass inspection, and in my state, if you don't pass inspection, you lose your license plates. SOOO there you go! The car runs fine, but we have to replace the ridiculous sensor in order to drive the car legally. Talk about the tail wagging the dog!! Yes, I'm frustrated too bud. Thanks for watching and commenting!
In Texas if that check engine light is on you can't register your vehicle
@@mikesbackyardmechanicthe pentastar has a dual stage oil pump. The solenoid on the pump controls the pump going from high to low stage.
you can change just the solenoid without changing the whole oil pump
@mackamericanbullies2806 Please post us a video on how to replace just the solenoid. Because the dealership sure won't do it that way for you, they said the only solution was to replace the entire oil pump. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I’m unscrewing the sensor but it just spins and spins, it won’t come off
Hello there! Make sure the socket is firmly seated properly all the way on to the metal base of the sensor. It is a very tight fit because of adjacent hoses. Did you get the thinner walled special sensor socket I mentioned in the video and in the description of the RUclips page? I hope you get it off. Thanks for watching and commenting!
there isn't another sensor on the oil pump is there?
Hello there! Were you able to view the bonus information at the end of this video? If not, I encourage you to watch it. There is a sensor on the oil pump that causes error codes P06DA and P06DE when it malfunctions. This sensor is integral with the oil pump and can only be replaced by replacing the entire oil pump. 😩 (Thanks Dodge) Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@mikesbackyardmechanic yes I did after I made my comment first I didn't wait for the end I got a little head of myself
Forget testing. Let's just replace parts until it's fixed...LOL
It’s a 100 percent known failure