Engine Case Painting: Honda XL185 Part 4
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2023
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In this video (PART 4) of the Honda XL185s project bike we took on. With the engine completely torn down and it is officially ready for paint.
With some products from @Kbscoatings-us we should be able to do a pretty decent job... Or at least I hope.
If you are in need of some engine painting supplies. Be sure to check them out! www.kbs-coatings.com/motor-co...
You can also pick up some of the spray paint I used in the video HERE-
amzn.to/3QSposq
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Miss the old XL's wished Honda still made them today! Japan has quality down pat.
Re: case bearings. The last refresh I did (XV920), I put the case halves in the oven, heated it to 225°, removed after heating, flipped over on a board and the bearings literally fell out. I used the same process to install ice cold replacements that dropped in with no assistance..
I was amazed at how effortless it was.
Nice vidéo ! You did not waste time or material, you SPENT it to have a first experience...and WE ALL LEARNED A LOT : Thank you !
It could have been a good idea to start with a junk part, rather than a preciously refurbished engine case, though.
Looking at the operation it was obvious to me, from the beginning, you applied WAY TOO thick coat. This is something I learned from my grandpa and true for any type of painting (except DIPPING)
To ease your feeling (if needed) I can tell the 1970's original engine paints were even worse than your restoration attemp. I did completly strip my Suzuki top engine paint while pressure whashing it and I was not a too agressive pressure washing ...
I will be doing a similar job in the next weeks and I will have a little thought for you when the painting operation will start !
If we learn something new it's not a waste of time.. I am looking forward to this bike running again
Well said! So am I!
You always have to waste time to learn something new. Therefore, it wasn't a waste of time. This has been a great series so far..
That's s great way to think about it, I'm gonna remember that 👍
Don't be hard yourself, we all like to try new ways of doing things. It's the only way to learn. Keep up the good work.😊😊
Thanks man!!
Nice to see an open and transparent video. I have OCD level perfectionism too so I know where you are at man but I wouldn’t be too hard on yourself because the end results look like you did a good save.
Interesting and informative. Glad I'm not the only one that catches stuff on fire!
EXCELLENT Pal......Looks great.......This is real life experience........The benefit is learning.
When I painted my C95E Honda Benly engine I used the high heat spray paint . I stripped off the old paint etc with paint stripper then wash it doen with paint thinners and it all turned out just great !!
Nice man!
You learned a lot, a dabing motion with any brush coat is a challenge. Thin coats spray can, this helps everyone showing real bike painting plus the issues, thx for sharing Cody.
I certainly did learn a lot lol . I hope others can avoid this venture with a better method!
We need a wheel bearing video 😊
I think it looks great. Once it gets a little dusty nobody is going to notice. Good job. 👍
Love your videos, keep up the good work!!!
Great going
Question Motorcycle MD what brush is better for the paint ? Thinking I will get the spray can paint as well.
Nice tips painting the engine parts. 👍
I have a Yamaha RX 135cc with a 2 stroke motor, lying in storage for nearly 4 years now. The piston is seized. I need to unseize it.
As about the cylinder head, the metallic coating / painting has chipped off in a few places. Do I need to get it painted with heat resistive special paint or any other procedure to get this back to its original stock condition? Thanks
It's okay, you can have runs using a spray can.
Maybe I missed something but was this for the adhesion or this was the top coat? I wasn't sure if the black material was going to be recoated or that was ir? Can you please respond? Thx
Don't you hate when you spend hundreds and they give you a brush that cost them twelve cents in bulk to buy.
😂 You’re not wrong
Did you use soda as media for blasting? Or some other Media?
I want to rebuild and repaint my old yamaha motor and was thinking of blasting it with glass beads.
But not sure how to make sure all media is washed afterwards.
Spraying over the old paint will probably not give as good as a result?
hey MD, ive been trying to diagnose a weird bumpy feeling in the rear of my yamaha r6 2001.
the tyre is new the tyre pressure is 2,5bars and i cant for the love figure out where the bumpy feelings comes from... Its not consistent but it seems like theres something stuck on the tyre while there clearly is not.
Could you help me in the right direction?
What color is the Swimgarm?
dude where is part 5?
QUESTION...........
99 honda magna.
If I straight pipe it without rejetting the carbs, what will be the results and issues?
Probably backfire like crazy
@TheMotorcycleMD Thanks for the quick response 👍
What if I took the baffle out? I've been wanting to try that, but had people say I would have to rejet.
Is that true? I'm just looking for an easy, more aggressive sound change.
I've just discovered your channel. I have subscribed. If you have a video showing taking the baffles out of a 99 honda magna and talking about how it would do without rejetting it I will watch if you have a link. I would just hate to drill and take out to see it not work, then try to replace. Thank you
Never buy those cheap chip brushes for critical work. Buy the good brush. When you’re in between coats or just done for the day- you don’t have to clean the brush. Just load it up with paint then wrap it tight with Saran Wrap then bag it real good in airtight bags then put it in the freezer.
You can come back months later, let it thaw, and it’ll be just like you used it a minute ago.
But bag it good and airtight or your food will taste funny.
As others have said, those chip brushes are crap. Get a good synthetic Purdy and treat it well. I would also recommend cleaning brush well after use and hanging up, bristles down to dry. Storing a wrapped brush will give you dried residue in the bristles. Only dip the brush halfway up the bristles to keep paint from getting irretrievably lodged in the ferrule.
Cynical me would say part of your problem with the finnish is partly down to poor quality brush, best to buy good quality and clean properly after use and reuse. People that paint for a living do it that way, good quality brush will not be cheap, also needs a rub on a rough surface initally, bricks are good just before 1st use. Hagerty use proper spray gun/compressor as it works best, for home/DIY use rattle can is probably simplest option.
Too much money to make the engine look cheap :) Let's see the resut when the paint will start to burn off. And it defginitely will!