I know this is old, but would like to mention. Cast iron is very porous and holds moisture. After degreasing I always hit my cast parts with a propane torch or heat gun. You'd be surprised the amount of moisture that can come out of a part you assume to be dry. That moisture, if not removed, can cause the paint to flake off when the part is heated up while running. That moisture has to escape somewhere. This is all especially true if you are receiving parts back from a machine shop that put your parts through a wash tank. Never assume they put those parts in an oven, or put them in long enough to remove that moisture. All the time you spend properly painting will be wasted.
Hey Pete great videos. I'm the guy who developed most of the paints and coatings at EW, including the ceramic engine paints. Prop 65 is not what determines where it can be shipped, it's VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that are governed state to state and Canada is very difficult, not only on VOCs, but labeling. Anyway CA makes manufacturers put P65 on everything, I bought a garden hose the other day it has the warning. Glad you like the 2K, we worked very hard to get the formulas and colors correct. I'm not longer at EW, but proud of what we accomplished.
Having worked in a dealership and been the one opening up components for the first time since the vehicle rolled off the assembly line, you’d cry a little if you saw how much casting debris I’ve seen in cooling systems of relatively new vehicles.
I believe it. I was an engineer for GM Powertrain and saw hundreds of thousands of those engines being built. I you only could see what went on in the factory.
Im building my first engine, a gm v6 , and was quite surprised how the block is full of ”clay”. Couldnt understand what it was until my machine shop said its casting sand left from production. So strange that gm just left it like that. Going to have it bored out so the shop is going to bathe it in acid. I assume that will sort it out.
Great video, Painting and or mechanic restoration one of the best means of therapy. I always told suicidal patients when they were discharged either paint your bedroom or build engine model.
I saw a great cast iron engine component tip the other day. Once the part has been completely cleaned, degreased, and allowed to dry, get a propane torch and go over the whole piece gently heating it up to further drive off any moisture from the pores of the metal. It also burns off any remaining oil as well. Then it's ready to paint once it cools.
Love your videos, thanks so much for all you do, I’m in Chattanooga Tn, and I’m just learning on my 1963 Oldsmobile Cutlass, again thanks and keep up the good work.
I’ve recently started using tractor paint and it holds up well to heat and has a smooth glossy powder coat finish I would not use it on exhaust manifolds but I’ve used on turbo compressor housings valve covers and other engine pieces and I love it also have done a diesel bed stack and traction bars for trucks
I live Ontario Canada about 30 minutes to US boarder. It is true that the auto suppliers will not ship paints and things like that to Canada. The way I gat around it is to have them shipped to a UPS store and then I go across pick them up and bring back home. At the boarder I just declare that I'm bring back spray paint and depending on the dollar value it will determine if I have to pay tax on these items. Long story short it's no problem bring paints and things like that back across. I hope this helps.
Somerset, United kingdom I use Hb Body 989 epoxy but have used red oxide from hammerite All paint (chevy orange) is from etech Going to go see a auto paint shop I've just found to maybe learn more as I'm just starting out Currently restoring a 1984 chevy 305 but cannot get chevy corporate blue on line Other projects are 74 pontiac formula 400 and have a 69 ford 250 on its way from Houston Texas. Love the videos Pete really helpful keep it up cheers mate
Hey Pete, new subscriber to your channel all the way from South Africa, great videos man, thanks for explaining every step & taking time to cover all details... I do paintwork over here and busy with a 78 1275 GT Mini, your guidelines are helping a load. Keep it up man! 👊
Hello I live in Sweden and have used a lot of different paint methods. Eastwood products we got and that brand is the absolutely best product for engines and chassis.
In regard to what you said in the beginning about not painting it wrong, if there’s paint on the gasket surfaces and on the valves, would you say that’s wrong? I just recently had an engine rebuilt and they didn’t use ANY masking tape, or really try to avoid overspray in any way whatsoever.
I'm from Australia. Hard to get good paint here. I worked in the aero engineering trade a while ago. I think we used a semi gloss black on some of the engines. That is aircraft paint. Some of their colors may suit you. They are very durable. Spray cans.
I had to get dupli color Chevrolet orange DE1620 because in Melbourne Victoria Australia For some reason VHT is no longer on the shelves here . Can only find vht paint on maybe eBay
Just wanted to say, first time I’ve watched your videos, which was good info but I’ve also been reading through the comments for close to 45 minutes. Theres a great deal of info there thanks to your interaction so thanks for all the info left here for us, I’ve learned several things👍 If I stick around too much longer I’ll start expected a paycheck. Lol Oh and that water pump turned out top notch!
@@PetesGarage Anytime. Not sure if I asked but is there a zinc chromate in an aerosol can you would recommend? I’m building a buggy and plan on using on engine parts… thanks for any feedback. Not sure about temperature it’ll withstand.
Leaving bolt holes untreated will get you rust creap out of them . thin coat of antiseize or atf on a q tip will stop it. Clear hair spray on gasket surfaces to keep rust from creeping out .
We can get VHT / Duplicolor etc. at Repco here in Western Australia. (Repco are super expensive for most things but they do carry a large range) Some of the more exotic stuff may be harder to source obviously. Shipping is and logistics is clearly terrible anyway at the moment. The most dangerous stuff is that rattle-can clear coat (two part with hardener), you MUST wear a respirator with it or you risk damaging / scarring up your lungs for (a presumably shortened) life.
After trying numerous times with VHT rattle cans (flame coat and engine enamels), I finally gave up. I would blast all my parts with glass bead, primer them and cure the VHT in an oven and it just wouldn't last. Last year I tried Cerakote and that stuff is the bomb!
I'm going to try something on exhaust manifolds. Firearms and the bolts under your hood are Parkerized Magnesium Black and it's durable and easy to do. My plan is to parkerize my manifolds black and then put an exhaust coating over it. In case the coating comes off, it will still be protected and still look good.
If I forgot to put primer on my engine before putting the high temp engine paint did I mess up...if so what do I do to rectify the issue...and do you need to bake an engine after painting...thats just something I heard.
Like your videos Pete. I'm a old time resident of Akron ny , now in Florida. Still turning a wrench now and then, as a kid went to Harkness back in the early 60s, lol. You remind me a lot of Ed Seifert who also attended Harkness along with Hans Schmidt ( Cobra ), anyway just reminiscing. Keep up the great Vids.
I am from PERTH ,Australia.I bought some Dupli-Color Engine Chevrolet Orange to paint a 81 Air cooled Honda CR450R 2 stroke engine.Some other rebuilder said he tried it & when some fuel leaked out onto the paint is washed off.He just said don't use Ceramic paints.Now I am confused.Also it says nothing about using a primer first on the can.I am going to use Etch Primer but now dont know how soon to paint the color paint over it.do you do both within the hour of leave the primer for a week first ?
Hi Pete, Thank you for you tip about sand blasting cabinets, I must admit I have used it to clean up my alternator housing this week :-( Looks like I will pull that apart again and give it a very good clean. By the way I live in Perth WA and yes we can get Eastwood products from PPC in East Cannington and also e bay.
Thanks Vaughn. It's so tempting to blast everything, but you really have to make sure it's clean. One grain in the bearing on your alternator will cause it to smoke pretty quick.
Hey Pete I'm in Queensland Australia and I'm pretty sure I can get anything really we even have eastwood distributors and I've got proper 2k epoxys and clears from my local auto paint supplies
is it true that it is not advisable to paint over a motorcycle engine also the cooling fins. because it holds heat it and makes the cooling fins purpose useless.
What are your tips on preparing a engine block for a new head gasket? (when it is still in the car). I've seen many people clean it with plastic scrapers and solvant. But they dont do anything to prevent gasket material to fall into the coolant or oil passages while they are scraping. It doesnt seem to matter, because their engines runs fine afterwards. I would think it could potentially clog the radiator or termostat, or get into the bearings or clog tight oil passages.
For what its worth what i do is i put towels in the cylinders so nothing gets all up in the rings. Like pete i follow with a vaccum. Could twist some up and put it in the passages. Just be careful and slow. I spray some carb cleaner and use a razor blade scraper and scrape away from the passages so you get minimal stuff in them. Change the blade if you get any burrs on it so you dont gouge the engine of its aluminum. Dont use scotch bright or abrasive wheels because they can drop abrasive dust and grit into your engine and bed in your bearings. Wire wheels arnt good either because they can chuck wires everywhere and they will find the coolant jackets or any oil passages. Then i run the cheapest oil and a good filter for a day or 2 and do a oil change. Ive heard of people putting shaving cream in the passages to block them but ive never done that.
Precleaning cast is extremely important. earplugs in threaded holes and masking parts like that and precision cutting tape takes longer imho. Stuff the holes like you would do on intake ports when you’re replacing the gasket, paint the damn thing and once it’s dry but not fully cure you wipe off the gasket surface with a rag with solvent and that takes MAYBE 30 seconds.
Great video and 100% rightht on the blast media, also on any of the scotch brite disks, you'll find the silica imbedded in the bearing babbit later on.
I have subscribed sometime ago and hit like as well. Here I am, watching it again. With many paint technologies being similar, I noticed Nason hardener going into your Eastwood base. No problems I would guess
OK, what is you recommendation for paint on cylinder heads that have part of the exhaust manifold cast in, like Pontiacs, and that Studebaker? Is there engine paint that will withstand that kind of heat without burning? You always see cars at shows where the paint has burned off and the area has rusted.
Lebanon (the country), little is banned here but shipping from the States is generally costly, still, I have to admit, AMAZING videos, my personal favorite is the GM 350 rebuild with EFI, considering a 72 Vette and that's just what the doctor ordered, however I may just end up contacting Pete and having the engine block bought and engine rebuilt in the States then shipped over rather than worked here (not doing it myself), there's an abundance of GM blocks in junkyards here but people willing to do a OHV rebuild or any type of rebuild for that matter are few and far between if any , more European in terms of how cars are viewed here, don't modify it ...
@@PetesGarage you'd be most welcome :) ,people with a different mindset are needed here, a friend of mine had to make an arrangement with a garage owner to use just the tools to be able to rebuild a 351 Ford for his 72 Pantera, because even with money reassurance, garage owner just didn't want to dabble into the unknown and do the rebuild, took my friend a long time as well, but now ... what a car !! does stand out when the average joe has either a Korean or European hatch, and the richer Joe has any form of German or British SUV ... and sounds deliciously mechanical. We're both subbed to Pete's Garage :)
On my 77 F250, I want to spray clear on parts before installing to give kind of a wet bare metal natural look. And on the engine too. What's the best way since no gray primer or anything? Just wet bare metal look
Hi Pete, I would like to paint my SBC engine with a nice shiny chevy orange that lasts. I live in Puerto Rico, and eastwood, summit, and any other company that I tried to buy from don’t send paints to PR. What product out of the shelf from AutoZone or Home Depot do you recommend to me?
Hey Pete, love your videos. I am rebuilding the engine out of an old forklift I have. Nothing high performance or anything but I’m putting a lot of work into it and doing everything so I want to paint it with a good epoxy engine paint in an industrial color like grey. Anyway, my shop isn’t really set up to paint (I have paint equip, but I don’t want to spray in my shop right now), its very busy in there and worried about overspray getting on things. My question is; have you ever brushed on an engine enamel paint? If so, do you have any tips or recommendations? Thanks, keep on the good work on your channel!
Well Chris, let's start with the fact that the oil filter was an option on this engine. That's right, it didn't come with one. As a matter of fact, I added this one on like the dealer would have done. Secondly, the filter is passive, it's not in the pressure system like engines today. This filter takes oil from a plug in the end of the head and returns it through the fill spout. I use Wix on my engines, but a Fram will do just fine in this application.
Great vid. Besides using the Eastwood product you chose in your video, you shared other rattle cans. My waterpump on my '65 289 lost all the paint on it over the years. I have some Dupli-Color DE1612 Engine Enamel Gray Primer and some Dupli-Color DE1635 Engine Enamel Spray Paint with Ceramic - Semi-Gloss Black. In your opinion, after proper cleaning, how will applying those hold up? How many coats of each would you recommend? Thanks!
I’ve been using duplicolor cde1615 engine enamel for most of my aluminum parts. Easy to find in Canada. For the good stuff I go to a local bodyshop supply that sells ppg.
Hi, I'm preparing to paint an old Mercedes Benz OM 352 diesel engine for a Unimog. I want to paint it matte black. I live in Argentina and I have problems to get the right paint. In the paint shop they tell me that epoxy paints do not withstand the high temperature, and that the high temperature paint they have does not withstand spills of oil or fuel. Could you recommend me what kind of paint to use? Thank you
I live in Mexico and we don't have any Eastwood here!!! Not even POR15 :(, we have VHT, Rustoleum (a few) and Duplicolor, but only in Autozone (of course, they import the products). Trying to get (for example) POR15 shipped from Ebay or something like that gets really expensive really fast.
Hi Pete, thanks for the great video. I called Eastman for Cat yellow an they don't offer it. I've looked for a comparable product in Cat yellow and can't seem to find it. Can you give me any help with this? Thank you!
I'm in the middle of doing a gasket kit on my engine and plan to repaint since I got it all apart anyways. It isn't show or anything just to keep the rust away. What rattle can brand do you reccomend? I used VHT before but it didnt really work before.
I really try to respond to everyone. I've had good results with Plasti-Coat. VHT is more for headers and exhaust parts. You can buy the Eastwood paints in a rattle can.
Pretty much in all of Australia, you can buy the white knight branded paint. Max temp 300c or 570f. painted my bbq with it this weekend. I Can’t really find anything that’s higher temp tho
How long did you wait in between primer & topcoat? Also, it looks like you just did one good top coat? Is that what you always do on engine when using 2K?
Saying something is wrong is a must. People have to learn somehow. Not saying that something is wrong is just as bad as believing in blinker fluid needs changed.
For decades, engines did not use an oil pump as we think of it today. Oil filter kits were add on items. The rod cap had a scoop bolted on an threw oil up into the cylinders. Seems strange to think this is how they done it but it seem strange to think I worked on these. Many inline 6 cylinders had open blocks and no direction for the coolant to be directed. Buick had a brass tube that fit behind the water pump, but had slots of different sizes that forced coolant in between the cylinders as the back would run hotter. We have came a long way. I would say that even OBD-2 made engines even better on many ways.
Hi, Frase here in Melbourne Australia, I'm mainly PISSED OFF with the price we pay to get CERAKOTE paints & Hardeners here, - Q: if you were painting an engine block with a bright color, would you give it a WHITE base coat ? Years ago I sprayed a 350ci block & heads with enamel then when engine finally fires up it bakes on
I work for a freight company here in Sydney Australia, we deal with dangerous goods all the time you just need the right qtine, customs permits and import pwk, thats about it.
Have you sprayed small rough parts like that cast iron water pump outside with decent results? I’ve only got a small garage and I’d have overspray on everything.
I noticed you mentioned that you have repainted parts the have already been painted before. Any suggestions on prep before painting. Besides cleaning of course
Actually I think thats a well balanced view. Most other videos promote their own methods and call everything else shit. The number of people who own a spray gun who go all “anti rattle can nazi” because they forget where they started out...
Hello. Question regarding high temp paint and aluminium engine block/parts. I am in the process of restoring an old Rover V8. If I paint it with hight temp paint that needs 200celsius plus to harden. Does it mean that it stays wet until I bake it.. I was planning to paint it prior to put it in my land rover series 3.. But that will be a mess if it is not hardened. Also. What paints is recommended for alu parts. Both inlet manifold but also rocker covers. Engine clock etc.
Hi Pete, im from Johannesburg South Africa, i build custom bikes (show bikes) im doing an old Triumph Bonnieville, im wanting to do the motor white, covers chrome ect, please could you recommend the primer, paint and do i clear it, it gets pretty hot, will the white last and not go dull, thanx a million, always learning from your show
Air cooled engines are really tough. On aluminum you need a zinc chromate primer and I'd use a high temp epoxy. It may take some searching to see what you can get there. Good luck
Hello!! Thanks for this video! Im about to open the engine manifold of my mercedes E class with the M156 engine. The manifold is made.of magnesium and after cleaning it up I thought of painting the throttle plate and the inside of the manfold chamber to prevent it from corrosion (these magnesium manifolds are notorious). Any tips on the best product and technique to paint this particular part made of magnesium? I live in the united arab emirates
@@PetesGarage That's what I thought, or maybe I did not explain myself correctly. It's kind of a long video but this is the process. Same engine and manifold. Thank you. ruclips.net/video/nZGKskqhHNU/видео.html
Would there be a header paint out there that's bright green ? I have a Kawasaki bike and have grit blasted the pipe clean and wanted to repaint the pipe about the same colour as the rest of the bike .
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I know this is old, but would like to mention. Cast iron is very porous and holds moisture. After degreasing I always hit my cast parts with a propane torch or heat gun. You'd be surprised the amount of moisture that can come out of a part you assume to be dry. That moisture, if not removed, can cause the paint to flake off when the part is heated up while running. That moisture has to escape somewhere. This is all especially true if you are receiving parts back from a machine shop that put your parts through a wash tank. Never assume they put those parts in an oven, or put them in long enough to remove that moisture. All the time you spend properly painting will be wasted.
Great comment, thank you!
Uhh don't water pumps have rubber or synthetic seals inside them tho?
was just about to paint my first cast iron suspension arm thanks for this 👍
I just saw the RUclips video this guy stole his info from...smh
Hey Pete great videos. I'm the guy who developed most of the paints and coatings at EW, including the ceramic engine paints. Prop 65 is not what determines where it can be shipped, it's VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that are governed state to state and Canada is very difficult, not only on VOCs, but labeling. Anyway CA makes manufacturers put P65 on everything, I bought a garden hose the other day it has the warning. Glad you like the 2K, we worked very hard to get the formulas and colors correct. I'm not longer at EW, but proud of what we accomplished.
Thank you very much John...great products!
Legendary dev
Pete, your the fastest prepper, painter I've ever seen, you rock. God Bless, brother.
Thanks my friend....lots of years of practice. God bless you as well.
Having worked in a dealership and been the one opening up components for the first time since the vehicle rolled off the assembly line, you’d cry a little if you saw how much casting debris I’ve seen in cooling systems of relatively new vehicles.
I believe it. I was an engineer for GM Powertrain and saw hundreds of thousands of those engines being built. I you only could see what went on in the factory.
Im building my first engine, a gm v6 , and was quite surprised how the block is full of ”clay”. Couldnt understand what it was until my machine shop said its casting sand left from production.
So strange that gm just left it like that.
Going to have it bored out so the shop is going to bathe it in acid. I assume that will sort it out.
@@PetesGarage a
Sadly we gets old, but ur stuff never. And it feels like we got more to do...
Thanks a lot for doing what you got to do and sharing with us
Thanks my friend
Great video, Painting and or mechanic restoration one of the best means of therapy. I always told suicidal patients when they were discharged either paint your bedroom or build engine model.
It's my therapy
I saw a great cast iron engine component tip the other day. Once the part has been completely cleaned, degreased, and allowed to dry, get a propane torch and go over the whole piece gently heating it up to further drive off any moisture from the pores of the metal. It also burns off any remaining oil as well. Then it's ready to paint once it cools.
Great idea, thanks
I saw Uncle Tony talking about that. Great tip.
Love your videos, thanks so much for all you do, I’m in Chattanooga Tn, and I’m just learning on my 1963 Oldsmobile Cutlass, again thanks and keep up the good work.
Thanks Kevin, awesome car!
I’ve recently started using tractor paint and it holds up well to heat and has a smooth glossy powder coat finish I would not use it on exhaust manifolds but I’ve used on turbo compressor housings valve covers and other engine pieces and I love it also have done a diesel bed stack and traction bars for trucks
I've heard that, thank you
Thanks Pete. Perfect timing. New to me engine in a few months. Winter work to us in the NE.
Awesome....have fun Jake!
Thanks Pete for another great video! Keep up the good work!
Thanks James
I live Ontario Canada about 30 minutes to US boarder. It is true that the auto suppliers will not ship paints and things like that to Canada. The way I gat around it is to have them shipped to a UPS store and then I go across pick them up and bring back home. At the boarder I just declare that I'm bring back spray paint and depending on the dollar value it will determine if I have to pay tax on these items. Long story short it's no problem bring paints and things like that back across. I hope this helps.
Awesome! Thanks Dan
I setup a mailbox at CBI USA niagara falls yet to use it but will do the same thing coming from toronto
I've been happy over many years with the Eastwood gray stuff on manifolds and their ceramic engine paint .
I like it too
Somerset, United kingdom
I use Hb Body 989 epoxy but have used red oxide from hammerite
All paint (chevy orange) is from etech
Going to go see a auto paint shop I've just found to maybe learn more as I'm just starting out
Currently restoring a 1984 chevy 305 but cannot get chevy corporate blue on line
Other projects are 74 pontiac formula 400 and have a 69 ford 250 on its way from Houston Texas.
Love the videos Pete really helpful keep it up cheers mate
That's awesome Stuart, thanks for sharing that information.
Hey Pete, new subscriber to your channel all the way from South Africa, great videos man, thanks for explaining every step & taking time to cover all details... I do paintwork over here and busy with a 78 1275 GT Mini, your guidelines are helping a load. Keep it up man! 👊
Greetings Wayne, cool car you have there
Hello I live in Sweden and have used a lot of different paint methods. Eastwood products we got and that brand is the absolutely best product for engines and chassis.
Thank you for the comment. Some countries are really strict on what they let the average guy buy. 👍
Very professional, as always.
It’s June - hope it’s finally warming up there in N. NY!
Thanks my friend, June 3rd and it's a balmy 52.
Also I liked the way you use aluminum foil for taping off your engine. That’s a great idea.
Glad you liked it!
I liked it too, pretty brilliant idea👍
In regard to what you said in the beginning about not painting it wrong, if there’s paint on the gasket surfaces and on the valves, would you say that’s wrong? I just recently had an engine rebuilt and they didn’t use ANY masking tape, or really try to avoid overspray in any way whatsoever.
I think there is a difference between wrong and just plain poor workmanship
I painted my engine block with the copper and the accessory brackets, covers, pans, ect with silver it looks BADASS.
I can imagine how nice it looks
That sounds like a great combo
Hey, great video. Love the Stude. I live in Texas where Prop 65 is just a suggestion or in most cases a FYI.
Thanks Clayton
Cambridge uk, you can buy 2k from ebay as well as etch primers etc and eastwoods products from frosts too.
Great info, thanks for sharing Michael
One trick I always use for the threaded holes is foam earplugs. They're cheap, and the confirm to just about any size hole you come across.
Great idea, thanks
I'm from Australia. Hard to get good paint here. I worked in the aero engineering trade a while ago. I think we used a semi gloss black on some of the engines. That is aircraft paint.
Some of their colors may suit you. They are very durable. Spray cans.
I hear that a lot, thanks for the comment
I had to get dupli color Chevrolet orange DE1620 because in Melbourne Victoria Australia For some reason VHT is no longer on the shelves here . Can only find vht paint on maybe eBay
Wow, that sucks
Just wanted to say, first time I’ve watched your videos, which was good info but I’ve also been reading through the comments for close to 45 minutes. Theres a great deal of info there thanks to your interaction so thanks for all the info left here for us, I’ve learned several things👍 If I stick around too much longer I’ll start expected a paycheck. Lol
Oh and that water pump turned out top notch!
Thanks my friend
@@PetesGarage Anytime. Not sure if I asked but is there a zinc chromate in an aerosol can you would recommend? I’m building a buggy and plan on using on engine parts… thanks for any feedback. Not sure about temperature it’ll withstand.
Leaving bolt holes untreated will get you rust creap out of them . thin coat of antiseize or atf on a q tip will stop it. Clear hair spray on gasket surfaces to keep rust from creeping out .
Interesting, great tip, thank you
We can get VHT / Duplicolor etc. at Repco here in Western Australia. (Repco are super expensive for most things but they do carry a large range) Some of the more exotic stuff may be harder to source obviously. Shipping is and logistics is clearly terrible anyway at the moment. The most dangerous stuff is that rattle-can clear coat (two part with hardener), you MUST wear a respirator with it or you risk damaging / scarring up your lungs for (a presumably shortened) life.
Thanks for sharing that. I wish you luck, I hope you guys get your freedom back soon.
After trying numerous times with VHT rattle cans (flame coat and engine enamels), I finally gave up. I would blast all my parts with glass bead, primer them and cure the VHT in an oven and it just wouldn't last. Last year I tried Cerakote and that stuff is the bomb!
I will look into that
When I did my sm blk chevy pump, I deburred and flap disced the whole thing before, in my case, powder coating. I turned some heads for sure.
Sounds awesome!
Pete, I see the flourescent lighting in your garage. I switched to LEDs. More light, less $. Give it a try.
Thanks, I'm working on that
I'm going to try something on exhaust manifolds. Firearms and the bolts under your hood are Parkerized Magnesium Black and it's durable and easy to do. My plan is to parkerize my manifolds black and then put an exhaust coating over it. In case the coating comes off, it will still be protected and still look good.
Alberta, Canada, got the Eastwood flat black engine paint shipped here. Took about 6 weeks though.
Thanka Marc
If I forgot to put primer on my engine before putting the high temp engine paint did I mess up...if so what do I do to rectify the issue...and do you need to bake an engine after painting...thats just something I heard.
If you did not use primer, but used high temp paint, you will be ok. You only have to bake paint that requires it, not all do.
I used a graphite spray for my manifolds. Works really well.
I gotta check that out
@@PetesGarage I've got some Pontiac RAIII repop manifolds I need to spray. I'll do a video on it. Might be of some service to some folks in the hobby.
@@superduty4556 Excellent, thanks
Like your videos Pete. I'm a old time resident of Akron ny , now in Florida. Still turning a wrench now and then, as a kid went to Harkness back in the early 60s, lol. You remind me a lot of Ed Seifert who also attended Harkness along with Hans Schmidt ( Cobra ), anyway just reminiscing. Keep up the great Vids.
I'd love to join you Sam!
I am from PERTH ,Australia.I bought some Dupli-Color Engine Chevrolet Orange to paint a 81 Air cooled Honda CR450R 2 stroke engine.Some other rebuilder said he tried it & when some fuel leaked out onto the paint is washed off.He just said don't use Ceramic paints.Now I am confused.Also it says nothing about using a primer first on the can.I am going to use Etch Primer but now dont know how soon to paint the color paint over it.do you do both within the hour of leave the primer for a week first ?
Dupli color will come off easier then a 2k ceramic. Just let the primer dry a couple hours
All the VHT and Duplicolour Engine enamels are available in New Zealand.
Thanks for sharing Leonard
Hi Pete, Thank you for you tip about sand blasting cabinets, I must admit I have used it to clean up my alternator housing this week :-( Looks like I will pull that apart again and give it a very good clean. By the way I live in Perth WA and yes we can get Eastwood products from PPC in East Cannington and also e bay.
Thanks Vaughn. It's so tempting to blast everything, but you really have to make sure it's clean. One grain in the bearing on your alternator will cause it to smoke pretty quick.
Agree with Vaughn. PPCCO here in Australia stock everything Eastwood related. They also stock PO5-15 and Bill Hirsh products.
Do you notice a difference in durability between the Eastwood coating and the rattle can stuff?
Absolutely! No comparison whatsoever.
Hey Pete I'm in Queensland Australia and I'm pretty sure I can get anything really we even have eastwood distributors and I've got proper 2k epoxys and clears from my local auto paint supplies
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing with everyone. I've had so many conflicting stories about what you guys can get.
is it true that it is not advisable to paint over a motorcycle engine also the cooling fins. because it holds heat it and makes the cooling fins purpose useless.
Yes, that is true
@@PetesGarage No it is not true, many motorcycles have painted fins
What are your tips on preparing a engine block for a new head gasket? (when it is still in the car). I've seen many people clean it with plastic scrapers and solvant. But they dont do anything to prevent gasket material to fall into the coolant or oil passages while they are scraping. It doesnt seem to matter, because their engines runs fine afterwards. I would think it could potentially clog the radiator or termostat, or get into the bearings or clog tight oil passages.
When I do that kind of job I use a vacuum as I'm scraping and cleaning. Drain as much coolant as possible and vacuum it out when you're done.
For what its worth what i do is i put towels in the cylinders so nothing gets all up in the rings. Like pete i follow with a vaccum. Could twist some up and put it in the passages. Just be careful and slow. I spray some carb cleaner and use a razor blade scraper and scrape away from the passages so you get minimal stuff in them. Change the blade if you get any burrs on it so you dont gouge the engine of its aluminum. Dont use scotch bright or abrasive wheels because they can drop abrasive dust and grit into your engine and bed in your bearings. Wire wheels arnt good either because they can chuck wires everywhere and they will find the coolant jackets or any oil passages. Then i run the cheapest oil and a good filter for a day or 2 and do a oil change. Ive heard of people putting shaving cream in the passages to block them but ive never done that.
Great comment Edward!
Precleaning cast is extremely important. earplugs in threaded holes and masking parts like that and precision cutting tape takes longer imho. Stuff the holes like you would do on intake ports when you’re replacing the gasket, paint the damn thing and once it’s dry but not fully cure you wipe off the gasket surface with a rag with solvent and that takes MAYBE 30 seconds.
Thanks for the tip
Hi Pete did I see you added some clear to the paint?
Thank you Bob Mahaney
No, not with this paint
UTG (Uncle Tony) likes to pre-cook all cast metals with map gas to open the pores for cleaning... your take?
It could bake out oil
UTG does that to sweat out the moisture first, followed by an acetone wipe. He also did that after the engine was hot tanked.
Great video and 100% rightht on the blast media, also on any of the scotch brite disks, you'll find the silica imbedded in the bearing babbit later on.
Great tip, thanks Bruce
For high temp, does the paint need to be baked to properly cure?
It depends on the paint
I have subscribed sometime ago and hit like as well. Here I am, watching it again. With many paint technologies being similar, I noticed Nason hardener going into your Eastwood base. No problems I would guess
I've had to use it in emergencies and have had no problems
OK, what is you recommendation for paint on cylinder heads that have part of the exhaust manifold cast in, like Pontiacs, and that Studebaker? Is there engine paint that will withstand that kind of heat without burning? You always see cars at shows where the paint has burned off and the area has rusted.
Great question. I've used the Eastwood paints there with success.
Lebanon (the country), little is banned here but shipping from the States is generally costly, still, I have to admit, AMAZING videos, my personal favorite is the GM 350 rebuild with EFI, considering a 72 Vette and that's just what the doctor ordered, however I may just end up contacting Pete and having the engine block bought and engine rebuilt in the States then shipped over rather than worked here (not doing it myself), there's an abundance of GM blocks in junkyards here but people willing to do a OHV rebuild or any type of rebuild for that matter are few and far between if any , more European in terms of how cars are viewed here, don't modify it ...
I should move there and open a shop.....lol
@@PetesGarage you'd be most welcome :) ,people with a different mindset are needed here, a friend of mine had to make an arrangement with a garage owner to use just the tools to be able to rebuild a 351 Ford for his 72 Pantera, because even with money reassurance, garage owner just didn't want to dabble into the unknown and do the rebuild, took my friend a long time as well, but now ... what a car !! does stand out when the average joe has either a Korean or European hatch, and the richer Joe has any form of German or British SUV ... and sounds deliciously mechanical.
We're both subbed to Pete's Garage :)
It's a tempting idea
On my 77 F250, I want to spray clear on parts before installing to give kind of a wet bare metal natural look. And on the engine too. What's the best way since no gray primer or anything? Just wet bare metal look
Plasticoat makes a clear
Hi Pete, I would like to paint my SBC engine with a nice shiny chevy orange that lasts. I live in Puerto Rico, and eastwood, summit, and any other company that I tried to buy from don’t send paints to PR. What product out of the shelf from AutoZone or Home Depot do you recommend to me?
I like Plasti-Coat
Prep is key to a good job
Absolutely
Thanks helpful video. I have a tip coming from being a painter. Get rid of your aluminum foil and buy some glad press and seal at the grocery store.
Thanks Tim, that's a great idea
@@PetesGarage your very welcome I hope you find it as useful as I have.
Hey Pete, love your videos. I am rebuilding the engine out of an old forklift I have. Nothing high performance or anything but I’m putting a lot of work into it and doing everything so I want to paint it with a good epoxy engine paint in an industrial color like grey. Anyway, my shop isn’t really set up to paint (I have paint equip, but I don’t want to spray in my shop right now), its very busy in there and worried about overspray getting on things. My question is; have you ever brushed on an engine enamel paint? If so, do you have any tips or recommendations? Thanks, keep on the good work on your channel!
Thanks Nick, yes, I have brushed it on with ok results. You can spray outside and bring it in.
Paint job looks sweet but....a FRAM oil filter on that Studebaker? :(
Ive ran fram since the mid 90s. What gives?
@@lonestarlows Read/watch the reviews about the quality of Fram's "standard" oil filters...they don't inspire much confidence
Well Chris, let's start with the fact that the oil filter was an option on this engine. That's right, it didn't come with one. As a matter of fact, I added this one on like the dealer would have done. Secondly, the filter is passive, it's not in the pressure system like engines today. This filter takes oil from a plug in the end of the head and returns it through the fill spout. I use Wix on my engines, but a Fram will do just fine in this application.
what primer brand name please....ur the greatest
PPG
Why not just put block plates on the pump temporary to blast it clean in the bladt machine??? Just a way i do it and keeps it clean
I've learned the hard way, so I don't do it anymore
Great vid. Besides using the Eastwood product you chose in your video, you shared other rattle cans. My waterpump on my '65 289 lost all the paint on it over the years. I have some Dupli-Color DE1612 Engine Enamel Gray Primer and some Dupli-Color DE1635 Engine Enamel Spray Paint with Ceramic - Semi-Gloss Black. In your opinion, after proper cleaning, how will applying those hold up? How many coats of each would you recommend? Thanks!
I should have included that I'm pretty sure it is a cast-iron pump, not aluminum.
Those can last for years on a water pump.
I’ve been using duplicolor cde1615 engine enamel for most of my aluminum parts. Easy to find in Canada. For the good stuff I go to a local bodyshop supply that sells ppg.
Thanks for the info!
Hi man
U need to make video on “how and when car 🚗 starts burning oil ? Thnx
I'll add that to the list
I’m getting ready to paint my motorcycle engine after I rebuild it any tips for paint it’s a liquid cooled engine
Same as a car engine
Hi, I'm preparing to paint an old Mercedes Benz OM 352 diesel engine for a Unimog. I want to paint it matte black. I live in Argentina and I have problems to get the right paint. In the paint shop they tell me that epoxy paints do not withstand the high temperature, and that the high temperature paint they have does not withstand spills of oil or fuel. Could you recommend me what kind of paint to use?
Thank you
You could use and automotive base/clear coat.
I live in Mexico and we don't have any Eastwood here!!! Not even POR15 :(, we have VHT, Rustoleum (a few) and Duplicolor, but only in Autozone (of course, they import the products). Trying to get (for example) POR15 shipped from Ebay or something like that gets really expensive really fast.
Wow, that sucks. It's difficult to do anything when you can't get good products. Thanks for the comment!
Hi Pete, thanks for the great video. I called Eastman for Cat yellow an they don't offer it. I've looked for a comparable product in Cat yellow and can't seem to find it. Can you give me any help with this? Thank you!
I'm pretty sure Cat yellow is a standard color. You can buy it at Home Depot of online, Rustoleum makes it
Do you scuff it or just clean and spray
Just clean and spray
I'm in the middle of doing a gasket kit on my engine and plan to repaint since I got it all apart anyways. It isn't show or anything just to keep the rust away. What rattle can brand do you reccomend? I used VHT before but it didnt really work before.
If he doesn't respond go through his videos and find the one where he paints the block. He says in that video. There's more than one video
@@johnd5805 Alright man I will. Thanks man.
@@nerysalguero3956 your welcome. Hope your project is a success. I have a dream to build my own engine one day.
I really try to respond to everyone. I've had good results with Plasti-Coat. VHT is more for headers and exhaust parts. You can buy the Eastwood paints in a rattle can.
@@PetesGarage I know ya do bit your also a busy man Haha. Appreciate the info man. Ill try to find some around me
Pretty much in all of Australia, you can buy the white knight branded paint. Max temp 300c or 570f. painted my bbq with it this weekend. I Can’t really find anything that’s higher temp tho
That's unfortunate
Hi Pete. Any recommendations on what to do with a unpainted aluminium engine? Anyone sell a engine clearcoat..?
There are clears for it, but it will make the aluminum look milky white. You could use just an automotive 2k clear
Pete, what product did you use in this video for your primer?
I used a metal etch epoxy primer, Amercoat
Can you brush Eastwood paint on the parts
Yes
I live in Sydney Australia and PPCco have the paints available thru out the states in Australia.
Awesome, thanks
How long did you wait in between primer & topcoat? Also, it looks like you just did one good top coat? Is that what you always do on engine when using 2K?
About 30 minutes for the primer and 2 top coats
Saying something is wrong is a must. People have to learn somehow. Not saying that something is wrong is just as bad as believing in blinker fluid needs changed.
I always do
Did I just see a Fram filter on that Stude?! Any advice on painting aluminum parts? Especially machined parts like heads, chain covers, etc?
That filter is an option. It's passive, not in the pressure system. Use zinc chromate primer on aluminum
@@PetesGarage I see. Thanks for the tip. Where did I find that primer at?
From a Sherwin Williams store
For decades, engines did not use an oil pump as we think of it today. Oil filter kits were add on items. The rod cap had a scoop bolted on an threw oil up into the cylinders. Seems strange to think this is how they done it but it seem strange to think I worked on these. Many inline 6 cylinders had open blocks and no direction for the coolant to be directed. Buick had a brass tube that fit behind the water pump, but had slots of different sizes that forced coolant in between the cylinders as the back would run hotter. We have came a long way. I would say that even OBD-2 made engines even better on many ways.
Hi, Frase here in Melbourne Australia, I'm mainly PISSED OFF with the price we pay to get CERAKOTE paints & Hardeners here, - Q: if you were painting an engine block with a bright color, would you give it a WHITE base coat ?
Years ago I sprayed a 350ci block & heads with enamel then when engine finally fires up it bakes on
By the way... I'm a big RUSH fan
(Which is rare for an Aussie)
Hi Brendan, yes, a white base coat would help. Seems like prices are getting ridiculous all over.
I've seen Rush in concert a few times, they were awesome!
@@PetesGarage Because Rush never toured Australia, I had to fly to London (twice) to see the Time Machine Tour & Clockwork Angels tour
You're lucky to get to see them...that's awesome
Saw a tip to use a small file and scrape the edges to get perfect lines of the masking tape.
Any tip on how I should clean corroded aluminium?
Corroded aluminum is tough, I would grind or sand it
Try a wire brush wheel on an electric drill. Not too aggressive.
could i paint the engine and the engine part without removing them from engine?
Sure
@@PetesGarage should i also add a gloss coat on enamel ceramic paint of the engine?
You can, but not necessary
Paint the fender wells radiator support
I work for a freight company here in Sydney Australia, we deal with dangerous goods all the time you just need the right qtine, customs permits and import pwk, thats about it.
Awesome comment, thank you.
Should I use primer if I will paint over old paint?
I would clean off as much of the old paint as possible and just paint right on the metal
Have you sprayed small rough parts like that cast iron water pump outside with decent results? I’ve only got a small garage and I’d have overspray on everything.
Yes I have, you can do it with good air flow and cover everything up
I noticed you mentioned that you have repainted parts the have already been painted before. Any suggestions on prep before painting. Besides cleaning of course
Depending on the part, scuffing up the surface with a pad or steel wool
Awesome video. Subscribed!
I appreciate the subscribe!
Where do I get the hole plugs
Those are silicone plugs I use for powder coating. Eastwood sells them
I just saw a video someone using those squishy earplugs also.
What are you using to clean your spray gun after using epoxy paint and primer?
i use lacquer thinner
New Zealand, Engine Enamel and high temp spray cans. Repco and bunnings and resene
Thank you
Hi Pete. What kind of paint you used before you painted with the orange top coat. Was it a primer? If yes, what kind of primer suites for the job? Thx
Yes, it was epoxy primer PPG Amercoat
"You can't do something wrong, but steps you go through yields different results."
Savage
Well....not all results are desirable....lol
Actually I think thats a well balanced view. Most other videos promote their own methods and call everything else shit.
The number of people who own a spray gun who go all “anti rattle can nazi” because they forget where they started out...
Hello. Question regarding high temp paint and aluminium engine block/parts. I am in the process of restoring an old Rover V8. If I paint it with hight temp paint that needs 200celsius plus to harden. Does it mean that it stays wet until I bake it.. I was planning to paint it prior to put it in my land rover series 3.. But that will be a mess if it is not hardened. Also. What paints is recommended for alu parts. Both inlet manifold but also rocker covers. Engine clock etc.
It needs heat to harden, but it will be dry. Aluminum primer is zinc chromate. Any paint will go over that
Hi PETE'S GARAGE - what kit did you use to plug off the WATERPUMP (to keep paint out of the bolt holes ect)... GREAT VIDEO - 👍
Thanks Aris! There are many silicone plug kits available for powder coating. I think I got this set from Eastwood as well.
@@PetesGarage THANKS!! will order me some - also great for working on engines ect.. keep dirt out and/or when cleaning during work
Any recommendations for high-temp additives / process / products to paint an engine & transmission a custom paint color
I use Eastwood 2k engine paints
I'm gonna paint my engine Chevy orange which primer should I use and the stuff you are spraying in this video do you have to bake ?
Any etching epoxy primer will work. It does not bake, it is a 2k paint.
How about soda blasting engine parts? Medium will dissolve when contact with oil/water and are very very fine particles. Would you do that?
That can work depending on the part. That is a good option
Hi Pete, im from Johannesburg South Africa, i build custom bikes (show bikes) im doing an old Triumph Bonnieville, im wanting to do the motor white, covers chrome ect, please could you recommend the primer, paint and do i clear it, it gets pretty hot, will the white last and not go dull, thanx a million, always learning from your show
Air cooled engines are really tough. On aluminum you need a zinc chromate primer and I'd use a high temp epoxy. It may take some searching to see what you can get there. Good luck
Pete lots of thanks for all your tips. But have one question. Will you ever do a jam tip on those axes you have on the wall?
I should do that shouldn't I....
@@PetesGarage you bet!
Hello!!
Thanks for this video!
Im about to open the engine manifold of my mercedes E class with the M156 engine.
The manifold is made.of magnesium and after cleaning it up I thought of painting the throttle plate and the inside of the manfold chamber to prevent it from corrosion (these magnesium manifolds are notorious).
Any tips on the best product and technique to paint this particular part made of magnesium?
I live in the united arab emirates
I honestly would not paint the inside of a manifold
@@PetesGarage That's what I thought, or maybe I did not explain myself correctly.
It's kind of a long video but this is the process. Same engine and manifold. Thank you.
ruclips.net/video/nZGKskqhHNU/видео.html
Would there be a header paint out there that's bright green ? I have a Kawasaki bike and have grit blasted the pipe clean and wanted to repaint the pipe about the same colour as the rest of the bike .
Jet-hot has a green they will coat for you
Is it okay to get paint inside the water pump?
It is best not to
Perhaps I missed it but what was the primer you used? It looked like maybe it was tinted.
It was a PPG epoxy primer