Siraya Tech Cast castable resin HONEST review + How to use - by VOGMAN
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- Опубликовано: 27 май 2021
- Siraya Tech Cast castable resin - my HONEST review and instructions HOW TO USE. I was lucky enough to be the first person outside of Siraya Tech to test this resin, so here I share my thoughts and findings, plus a few useful tips on how to get the most when printing and metal casting with this wonderful, bargain priced resin.
🔹 SIRAYA TECH 'CAST' RESIN 🔹
Amazon UK ▶ amzn.to/3GKRVaW
Amazon US ▶ amzn.to/33O7622
Amazon CA ▶ amzn.to/3PqIjqc
Amazon DE ▶ amzn.to/40W7pEr
I also STRONGLY RECOMMEND you buy this glycerine
Amazon UK ▶ amzn.to/3gBvZ7w
Amazon US ▶ amzn.to/3QuZE2i
Amazon CA ▶ amzn.to/3Ca3Twb
Amazon DE ▶ amzn.to/3DXU843
or similar. It's a one-off purchase, but trust me, you'll need it for this resin.
And remember, DON'T buy this resin if you're not into metal casting! It's a speciality resin!
🔹 PRINTER SETTINGS 🔹
Siraya Techs recommended printer settings - bit.ly/3QmaEPD
🔹 EQUIPMENT & PRODUCTS USED 🔹
I often get asked where I buy my investment powder, what type of oven do I use, etc, so to make life easy I’ve made a list with links on my website here vegoilguy.co.uk/equipment.php
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The price of a cup of coffee can really help me grow my channel. If, and only IF, you can spare a little, please consider becoming one of my Patrons. You can read more about this here:
🟢 / vegoilguy 😃
Or if you prefer to make a PayPal donation, you can do that here
🟢 www.vegoilguy.co.uk/donations 😁
🔹 ETSY STORE 🔹
I sell a few castings and 3D designs on Etsy. Proceeds help me maintain my channel.
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🔹 MY LINKS 🔹
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🔹 DISCLAIMER 🔹
This video is for and educational and entertainment purposes. Do not try and replicate what you see here without proper equipment, safety gear and a thorough understanding of the processes involved. It is a VERY dangerous. 
Хобби
![Liqcreate Wax Castable 3D Printer Resin [HONEST REVIEW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qq79uaNOI1E/mqdefault.jpg)
Got a bottle finally. Woo hoo! So here's my scoop so far. The exposure time listed for my printer was way under exposed. Still printing amerilabs and xp2's to get it dialed in. I clicked on the instructions from their website and it appears they have revised their cleaning protocol since you posted this video. Water is never mentioned. Quick ethanol or IPA. if there are any shiny spots (instead of matte finish), clean it again. Very dry before curing. Glycerin for UV. They don't mention how to clean the glycerin off, but alcohol works fantastic. Looks like in general they want no water, very dry, and a long hard cure.
Terrific review as usual Geoff! Really looking forward to getting the Siraya Tech resin here in Oz.
Thanks Dan. I always appreciate hearing from you 😁
Incredibly informative, thanks VOG
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video as usual, i just got my elegoo saturn a couple of weeks ago and will probably get some of this resin once i make a forge. Cheers
Sounds great! Best of luck 😁
Definitely look forward to grabbing some of this.. 😎
Hope you enjoy it! 😁
Great Review as always!! 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Finished casting my first piece with the new resin last night! Pretty good stuff
That is awesome! 😁
The notorious VOG NEVER DISAPPOINTS!!! god show brother
Thanks Jacob 😁😁😁
Great video as always, Many Thanks
Thanks Joe 😁👍👍👍
Got myself a bottle of this resign delivered promptly down her in Australia the price is amazing for a 1 kg bottle it’s hard to get castable resign down here so thanks for the heads up jumped on it straight away so thanks again Jeff 🙏
Excellent. You'll love it. Works great 😁
Thanks for the video VOG! Looking forward to trying these new settings. The cleaning schedule is unusual. Mine appeared to clean up just fine with a 3 minute wash in the wash and cure.
The trick is to experiment and improve... that's part of casting 😁
Hopefully these instructions will get everyone started.
Hi Daniel, how is your casting turn out with 3 minutes wash in the wash and cure?
Great video as usual
Glad you enjoyed it
i dont even know what resin casting is but this is just nice to watch :) Great videos.
Thank you! Cheers!
I finally find the time to use this resin for casting a piece. the problem that showed up was having some cracks during the burnout cycle in the mold. what I understood is that resins made for casting tend to expand during the burnout.
I would like have your opinion about this problem
thanks :)
Hello! I've watched like all of this series. You have a recommendation for what I should use? Printing small pieces with tiny .75mm or larger prong settings.
I took all the parts that have consistently failed recently on my cheap resin tests, and cast them with siraya. After many tests with different low-budget resins, i about gave up and was very skeptical of these youtubers that get free products to review. Here's my synopsis: Siraya Cast is freaking AWESOME!!! Every "tough" part cast without any flaws and i pushed it hard. Thick heavy and solid parts. Dainty and fine lettering and debossing. Prints great. Cleans up great. Sands and finishes great. Only about 2.1% shrinkage. No noticeable expansion causing investment breakage/displacement. Zero porosity or ash remnants. Wierd color and i wish it was grey but oh well. Prior to this resin, the only resin that would cast these parts was X-One (very pricey!). As soon as i took the sprue trees out of the pickle pot, I put another couple bottles on order. I knew this was a winner.
Glad to hear that. As I was responsible for testing ST Cast and giving it the 'ok' as it were, I'm always pleased to hear from others who share me enthusiasm for the product. 😁
@@vogman i'll be pushing that resin even harder in the next week. I have a couple STL files that apparently will only cast with X-One or molded solid wax parts. Decided to do some side by side tests to see what it's "really" capable of.
Did my first castings with it. Printing had no issues. Skipped all the water thing and used denaturated spirit before and after curing in glycerine. Castings came out perfect using normal burnout. To quote one of my favourite games - "This is Captain Shepard and this is my favourite resin in Citadel"
Doesn't surprise me at all. It's very good stuff 😁
Great review. I really enjoy your videos! One thing to note about using a glass container for the cure in glycerin is that borosilicate glass (pyrex) will pass ~90% of UV light at the 405nm wavelength, so a lab beaker should work fine for curing in an Anycubic Wash and Cure. At least, that is what I am hoping since I have ordered one for my curing needs :)
I've gone through about 1-1/2 liters of Resinworks violet and after a learning curve I'm quite happy with the way it prints and casts. However, the initial price for Cast was set at less than half the cost of Resinworks (and Amazon paid the shipping!). Based on Geoff's recommendations and experience with it I bought a couple of liters when he let us know it was available. Amazon says it should get here it in the first week of June and I'll finally be able to give "mystery resin" a try.
Resinworks also suggests glycerin curing, but the regimen isn't so elaborate. For the savings involved, I can live with the extra work for curing and cleaning.
I've been curing in a clear plastic container for the glycerin in an Elegoo washing and curing station. It works fine. I'll do the same with Cast and experiment to see if additional curing time is needed to make up for UV losses as it passes through the container. Glycerin is slimy stuff, but rinses off with water. It's cheap enough and benign enough that I don't worry about some of it going down the drain when I rinse the parts. I made a simple tray from course screen (hardware cloth in the U.S.) to support prints and lift them from the glycerin and drain them. I lay a circle of hardware cloth on top of the prints to sink them into the glycerin.
Thanks for the insight Dick. It will be good to hear your comparison 😁😁😁
Can you do a video on how to burn out a castable resin and make the plaster mold? You skimmed over it in this video, do you have it already in another video?
I love your content! Keep up the great work!-Tyler
The Best company for resin . And as always Follow the directions there there for a reason. Happy casting
Keep it simple... that way lies happiness 😁😁😁
Hello! Thanks so much for the video. Do you have any guidance on converting resin weight to metals? I'm used to certain conversion formulas for silver and casting bronze but I can't find any formula or even a good breakdown of density or anything to calculate it out myself. Thank you!
Thanks VOG for all your Great videos, I'm looking this Resin on your link on amazon since some weeks ago, and is not available, any news when will be on sale again?
Great video, crazy curing process. Will be ordering some of this resin as soon as its restocked! I work with a professional caster, so lets see how he gets on! I'm hoping this will be the answer to the custom one-offs I've been looking for. No dogs, but cheeky jugs, so 4/5.
Honestly once you've done it a couple of times, you don't even notice the steps 😁
@@vogman I'm seriously psyched, Annoyed I hesitated on the first batch, got ideas that are virtually impossible through moulding/wax injection. Lets see if they work.
Taking advantage of that stock video subscription in this video! 😁
Stock videos? Stock images? Me?!!!!!
Never... 😏😉😁😁😁
Please make a video or time-lapse of the process start to finish of casting. Please.
Going all out with the stock clips...
Me? Stock clips? Never... 😏😉😁🤣🤣👍👍👍
Hey thanks I love your videos. How long is the burn out cycle I use a old Cress kiln high fire and with regular wax 2.5 hours is the sweet spot on medium iv found. How long with purple siriya tech castable resin?
amazing content!
straight to the point, no time wasted
very honest
very informative
amazing voice ;3
sucks that so few ppl get to see this because of RUclips's dumb algorithm
That's very kind 😁😁😁
hey VOG, first of all, thank you for all of your informative videos. Is it possible for you to test EasyCast series 400 and 200? They offer samples so I'm sure they are going to send you some if you ask them. Lots of thanks
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Hey, thanks for your video! Do you know if you can use this resin in the Anycubic Photon Ultra?
"Faucet"? Here in Birmingham, UK, I call it a tap :)
Love your videos. Just became debt free (still have mortgage, etc..) and will be getting well involved with resin printing, then eventually, casting. Your videos are a bible for anyone wanting to start out.
Lol we also call Blm British lives Matter ... Americanism at its best
I have quite an international mix of viewers, so I try to make understanding as easy as possible. So yes, "faucet" but followed, you'll note, by two proper brummy taps 😁😁😁
@@vogman I did! I was commenting whilst watching! 🤣 Have a good weekend 👍
Thank you for the review. I was about to pay $120+ for castable wax. Looking forward to it coming back in stock. I'm Siraya Tech's website now and it's not even listed.
It really is VERY new and I don't think Siraya Tech were prepared for how successful it was going to be 😁
It's very typical for companies to produce a limited run to "test the market" and that's exactly what they did. After all, why produce a million if no one buys any? That makes no sense. So they produced a limited number, whatever that was, placed them on Amazon and watched. These sold out in two days proving there's demand for the product.
They're probably now frantically running around getting everything set up. When they have enough to meet demand, they'll be advertised everywhere I should think. So keep the faith and hang in there. It will be worth the short wait.
Can't wait to get mine. I think it was supposed to ship on the 4th.
Nice one. Happy printing! 😁😁😁
I really wanted to try out this material, but missed the first wave. I emailed Siraya and they said it sold out quickly but had no projected date for the second batch. I was finally able to place an order on Amazon for delivery on 5-7 July in case anyone else missed the boat the first time around. You can order it there now using VOG's link above. Can't wait to give it a try, I've had a lot of problems with "castable" resins and have even resorted to using engineering resin prints to create galvanized rubber molds and then inject jewelry wax to get my casts to where I want to be. It is a lot of extra work so I'm hoping to skip a few steps here with Siraya tech resin.
Thanks for sharing that Scott 😁😁😁
can you advise how to install creality halot one brand 3d printer for resin siraya purple, thank you very much.
Nice review
Thank you 🙂
You're far too honest! This is RUclips.
Great, informative video as usual.
Thanks Paul 😁
6:46 god damn, wow that looks incredible.
I'm getting into larger casting but small/resin stuff would be nice too and I figured I'd try just regular resin, but with these results I might just jump to this stuff.
I haven't done much research but I heard that regular resin doesn't really melt or turn to carbon well in a high temp burnout.
My little marine? Yes, he got his own video ruclips.net/video/-2rgrIumxc8/видео.html
Regular resin is unlikely to give you good results. It just doesn't burn away cleanly. But ST Cast works very well 😁
As for research, have a look at this video I did comparing normal resin, castable, wax and PLA ruclips.net/video/8p7I8IVmpSo/видео.html
@@vogman Unfortunately seems like for resin I'd have to order something about double the price, Siraya is only selling cast in the US for now according to their support, so anyone else is out of luck. Bummer since I needed some more tenacious and blu and they have free shipping in Canada which is rare.
Actually just found it on amazon but marked up unfortunately.
Hi there,could you tell please where i can get settings for this resin , printer Mars 3
On their user settings it says not to submerge it in alcohol for longer than 30 seconds and to not use a wash and cure station, or let it contact with water. I have 2 kilos of it and a wash and cure station, so im curious how long you washed it for? Thank you for the great video as always!
Personally I used my Wash n Cure on a 2 minute cycle without any problems. 😁
I bought some of the resin but I am having issues where the supports break away from the print causing a failure and when I use heavy supports to prevent this it causes sagging at the supports, have you come across this issue with castable resins? and if you have how did you resolve it?
when trying to cut supports they popped off leaving large holes all over my ring, am I supposed to remove supports before curing? this resin seems particularly soft before curing.
Anyone have any suggested settings for the Epax x1 printers. I want to do jewelry with it and my Printer arrives this week
Hi! Does anybody know the temperature required for the resin to vaporize? And whether it is achievable by using a torch or not? TIA
Excellent video. I bought this resin recently and I have a question I have tried with different exposure times and when I remove the supports from the print it causes a lot of damage. Why is that?
i have the same problem, you ever find out why?
I couldn't read your print settings on my small phone screen. Has anyone came up with ideal settings for the Mars 2Pro?
Great detailed review.
I am not sure what the hot and cold water washing is supposed to do. The IPA will have evaporated by the time you dunk it in water. Alcohol dissolves both fatty and aqueous residues so I am not sure what the water could do. At the same time, I don't think a company would suggest a more involved cleaning process than necessary. Any chemists can shed some light on this?
I'm aware this isn't the only resin to do this, but I haven't a clue either. I wondered whether the hot and cold treatment helped 'set' the resin in some way, a little like quenching steel to harden it, but less dramatic. The alternative is the the guys a Siraya Tech either, 1) Have shares in all the water companies or, 2) Enjoy taking the pee out of a gullible VOG. The smart money could well be on no.2, but I guess we'll see 😁😁😁
@@vogman hehe, thank you for your reply. I didn't know other resins recommend that as well. Tried to google it, but found nothing that really explains what is going on there.
Hi im using this resin after your review but i see a problem meltdown efect on some area espcialy support connecting area nova3d bene4 mono is my printer and anycubic photon ultra i try in both printer littie bit better in ultra becouse its dlp can you review pionext high wax resin pls thank you form Kuwait
Is it a must to use vegetable glycerin?
Or can you use machine industrial grade glycerin?
Also, great detaild review!! Can't wait to get my bottle already!
I guess it probably would. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. It's worth a try 😁
Could you do a photocentric castable resin review please. Thanks
It's on the list my friend 😁
I left this comment on another vid but I don’t think you saw it. This isn’t related but i need to know the answer. In the Angelo Saxon ring video you turned a flat object into the ring shape. I have scoured the internet for how you did it but could not find anything. So I’m just asking how did you do it
I would be really curious of the melting point of the already printed, and cured resin. Im thinking about to use this for 3d printing a negative mold, wich will be filled with epoxy, then melt off the resin mold around it. Did anyone tried something like this?
Thank you so much for the video I subscribe to your videos are amazing I just want to know if anybody has the settings for the elegoo 2mars pro
Many thanks. I'm sorry to say I haven't tried it in my Mars 2Pro yet 😁
Do you ever use clear resin for your rings without the intention of casting? I’m wondering if I can use mica powders in 3D prints similar to how I would in a river table
I've never used clear resins David. I often print test subjects using ordinary resins, so that I can get a 'real' idea of how the design works. Your idea sound fun though 😁
What happens to the resin during the burnout cycle? Does it melt or vaporize (toxic fumes?)? I am using an electric kiln and wondering if I need to have proper air vents (for vaporization) or a collector plate (for melting) so as to ruin my kiln. Or am I missing something?
Really appreciate your honest and detailed guide!
The resin burns away, so a little smoke is likely. I'd always recommend having ventilation during the casting process, even if it's just an open window. 😁
@@vogman Makes sense, thank you! Its amazing how you respond to every comment.
I went back and checked out more of your videos and its funny how my approach was so similar to what you had in your videos of DIY electric kiln. I used a microwave kiln (amzn.com/B012EV9LES) and made my own nichrome spiral spring and wired it to an an arduino, K-type thermocouple and a relay module with a simple bang-bang control. Its a lot smaller than yours, but a lot easier to make, took me a few hours.
Will update back here with any issues I faced in casting with this unconventional DIY setup :)
Resins will soften, then expand a little as they get hot and mushy, then begin to burn and vaporize. If you are ever curious, put a piece of printed resin somewhere you can see through the vent hole, or give it a quick peek occasionally. You do not need a collector plate. There will be literally nothing left at the end of the burnout cycle. Not even ash or residue. Put a couple fire brick squares under the flask so air can move around (I use a couple old 3/8 inch drill bits). You must have some air movement in the kiln, even if its a half inch hole in the bottom and near the top. Some way of vapors and smoke to leave. In most kilns, the gaps between bricks are fine as long as there is a exit vent hole. If your kiln is super sealed tight, you might have issues, and may consider cracking the door a tiny bit.
Good evening. The surfaces to which the connectors are attached. After printing, they turn out to be thicker than it was modeled in the exocad. For example, the wall should be 1 mm thick and 2 mm comes out of the print. The remaining walls without connectors are normal. What could it be? What settings to tweak?
That shouldn't happen. It might be over exposure. Try reducing your Normal Layer times 😁
Anyone know the good settings on a anycubic mono??
can you help me to configure the printer
Excellent video and I'm on the journey to figure out lost resin casting with the Siraya Cast resin. My goal is to make a goblet ( using dragon chalice from thingiverse) shot glass, I figured this would be a great test. I'm following yor directions but the two attempts I have had failed. The failure both times has been in the cup portion. When poring in metal (I'm using pewter to start, just to get the process down) it partially fills in the cup. My questions are... Could you take on this challenge can Siraya cast resin be used for larger castings than rings? If not, could you provide some guidance. Should I try to blow out residue after bake out? Maybe the goblet expands too much during burnout and cracks the investment? Or maybe I'm taking the wrong approach all together for larger items.
Large pieces with thin sections may well need extra sprues to ensure the get enough metal 😁
@@vogman I'm getting the whole shape, the problem I have is the cup part is partially filing with metal when I cast and I'm not sure what could be causing this.
When I fist saw your settings I thought that your exposure time is likely high, when you mentioned that the resin was brittle while cleaning supports that's likely the cause. You should be able to get better results at a much lower exposure. Since I haven't seen their suggested settings I'm not sure where it should be, but to give you an example blu is considered to have a long exposure, and it works at 3.5 seconds at a 50um layer height, since you're using a 25um height you would cut your exposure by 25%.
You could well be right. I encourage folks to tinker with settings themselves. I'm a bit lazy and tend to stop the moment something works. 😁😁😁
I'm finding the same thing on my Sonic Mini 4K, which is a pretty "UV hot" machine. I have a plate with an amerilabs test, a harz test, and the xp2. Siraya recommended 3sec at 050. I started at 3s with 035 layers. grossly underexposed and wet. Tried 3.7s very slight improvement but still super soft and underexposed. Also tried 4.6 and now i'm printing at 5.5s. It's all part of the dialing in game and every resin is different.
How long do you hold 1350F/730C during burnout?
What are your slicer settings? The link won't work
I’ll tell you something about this stuff the first bottle 7/8 print jobs were no good. I’m on my third 2kg bottle now my failure rate is like 1/100 I think they changed the recipe
Alguém pode enviar essa resina para o Brasil ?
Would be interesting to see if I can use this stuff to cast firearm frames.
If it's something you could print, then it's something you can cast 😁
Hows it smell?
Would anyone know the settings for this resin on the Elegoo Mars Pro? I’m having it shipped, and would love to not have to go through several tests 👍🏼.
I need them to if I find them first I’ll send you them.and if you find the settings please send them my way thank you
Have you found the settings?
Hi VOG can not get this resin to print well have tried your settings siryra tech settings to no real luck if i use phrozon cast no problem at all i have the mars pro any help would be great also i am a patron member Gary Morrison
I'll send you a message via Patreon buddy 😁
Do you know if I have to use vegetable glycerine? Is not possible to use the natural one or other?
I know a lot of people that don't bother with glycerine at all... they have no troubles.
@@vogman thanks a lot
The last time I ordered from SirayanTech, after a few weeks they cancelled my order. It turned out they cancelled ALL ORDERS TO THE UK, because of LOGISTICAL CARRIER PROBLEMS. I'm not sure I trust them to deliver to the UK.
Expensive hobby but I must admit that this is much cheaper than most castable resins. On a side note. I lined the inside of my cure station with aluminium tape. It more than doubles the quality of finish. I also use warm water to wash my prints after IPA. It gets rid of that dusty look.
Excellent tip Tony, thanks for sharing 😁
do you think this will work with white metal? I really want to figure out how to make 1/35 tank tracks.
I don't see why it wouldn't work great 😁
Burnout should probably be the same as with bronze, etc. It needs to be that hot to clean out the mold. It will take some experimentation on the temperature of the flask when you pour. The pouring temperature of the flask for pouring bronze is higher than the melting temperature of white metal. You may find that investment casting of white metal isn't cost effective due to the cost of the investment compared to the cost of using a reusable flexible mold.
@@dickmorris6310 thanks for the advice mr morris... sorta makes sense the track are quite small flexible mould sounds like a plan...any ideas on the material for the mould ?
but it does not print the complete file
Are there companies that would be able to cast for me? I don’t have issues printing and going thru all the steps for cleaning.
It depends where you are John. I don't have great knowledge of this but "yes" is the answer. You just have to research your area. But in the US try www.riogrande.com and if you're in Europe, you could approach my buddy Alexandre at www.bellum.fr
Mr. Veg Oil Guy: Sorry to bother you but if you have time could you please give the sttings you used for Siraya Tech Cast (purple from hell) resin? I have downloaded the anycubic sheet, and several other sites. I have an AnyCubic photon 4k and I have tried several of these setting with some success but it seems every other print becomes a moisprint. I am sorry to bother you but I am still in the novice stage of 3D printing. I am a hobbist bench jeweler and thought if I could do lost 3D print models instead of lost wax, that I could eliminate the steps of making a mold, and injecting wax. I would also appreciate any help you can give with the "Advance Settings" on my Photon 4k as in bottom layer controls and normal controls. I am sorry to bug you but would appreciate your advice. Thank you
What is touch diameter you are using for supports?
I use the standard support in Lychee and vary these according to my needs 😁
Coolcool
Thanks 👍😁
hello when will it be on sale?
This week I hear. Keep a close eye out amzn.to/33O7622
@@vogman I say not available
Hi
3:05 - I wonder if just displacing the air with a dry gas blanket would work. Less mess.
Interesting thought 😁
Elegí Saturn
One question, why should the resin be cured if it is to burn it? Can't you just put it in the cylinder and burn it like that?
Because the uncured resin doesn't burn away cleanly 😁😁😁
@@vogman ok 🙌🏻
did you burn out button up or down?
Both. Down to begin and after max soak, as the temperature comes down I flip 😁
Is anyone else having real trouble getting this resin to print properly? Both with Geoff's and the official instructions? It doesn't stick to supports very well at all in my several attempts at many different models!
What printer have you got their Daniel?
@@vogman I've got the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro like you. I've tried everything, varying the exposure time, the supports, even tightening and loosening the FEP film and nothing seems to work. Even for simple prints, it's like the resin isn't strong enough to stick to itself and just fails mid print. Which isn't a problem I've had with any other resin i've used. Do you warm your resin? Or do anything special you don't have to do for more standard resins?
@@vogman I've only gone and got a successful print and you were right on the money Geoff. As a last ditch effort I set the exposure to 6s and slowed down everything else and it worked like a charm! Think Siraya Cast didn't fully test everything. You just end up with a goop of artifacts if you print at 2.5s exposure!
Sorry for the delay... I'm glad it's worked for you. I make sure the resin is above 20C which is typical room temperature for me, but that's honestly it. I may overexpose a little, but the prints are successful and nicely detailed 😁😁😁
Their settings for the Sonic Mini 4K were horrendously low. I can imagine some of their other settings were junk also. Always to some tests for yourself and get it dialed in. Every printer and age of the light source is different. FEP's get old and block light. Recommended settings should be used only as a starting point.
Interesting that they don't even show this on their website, not even the settings for it. This is the US site.
It's very early days Paul. It's literally just a few days since it was placed on sale. Personally I would have dotted the i's and crossed the t's beforehand, but we're all different I guess 😁
This is my Friday night viewing
Salty snack and a beer...? 😁😁😁🍺🍺🍺
I’ve bought but I have no way to cast anything... yet!
But you'll be ready when you do 😁
So far, I made 1 cast and have VERY bad surface finish. I've had much better with their Fast resin. I've also been struggling a lot with print failures with this resin.
Printing is all about dialling in the settings and getting the supports right. Casting is pretty much the same 😁
@@vogman absolutely. I was just letting others know this resin is not very straightforward to use, and better results can sometimes be obtained with cheaper resins.
Hi. I don't like Siray Cast. A lot of posority even after 5 hours of uv curing. I will run other tests.
Interesting. Have you been curing in glycerine? I've not had any issues with porosity so far.
.. wait.. what.. jugs?
Really? Never noticed 😏😉😁😁😁
You did get money from every amazon sale though.
If I was doing it for profit, then I shot myself in the foot. Personally I have no doubt the pennies I get from Amazon (thanks to those kind enough to use the link) won't cover the costs of electricity, plaster and metal used. If we factor in time... well, let's not. So anyone who wants to swap with me the Amazon earnings for the costs I've incurred is welcome.
I do what I do for the love of it. I won't recommend a product just because someone pays me to, so I won't take money. You'll have to visit other Channels for that approach. But please don't begrudge me trying to claw back some of the money I've spent informing others. It's the only way I can appease my wife 😁😁😁
It really isn't a matter of amount earned. In this video you said that you where unbiased because you didn't earn anything on this resin. In the previous video you stated the opposite. The descripency is there regardless of amount earned.
I believe I said "no money has changed hands. I volunteered for this task and other than a free bottle of resin, Siraya Tech has given me nothing and made no demands upon me." That remains true. I openly admitted to folks in the previous video that the link would earn me a little from Amazon.
"if you want to be amongst the first to buy and try this resin, I’d be grateful if the link to order as I’ll get a few pennies from Amazon if you do, and that helps me maintain my channel."
Some kindly used it. Some may have just searched for the product themselves and not clicked the link. Still other purchasers came via Siraya Tech advertising and never saw my video or link.
The cleaning and curing procedures are far to much drama!
Honestly Jeff, once you've done it a couple of times, it becomes the norm and no great hassle. And when you compare the price of this resin which is 3, 4 and 5 times cheaper than some others, a couple of minutes extra cleaning makes everything so much more worthwhile 😁
@@vogman Thank you for doing awesome reviews and taking the time to answer questions even when we give you a difficult time! Have a most awesome evening!