One of the best examples of a how-to video I've seen. The right combination of talking, filming and editing. Makes me almost wish I had a Lancia. (jk about the Lancia part)
This guy is a pro. I watched all his videos. I like that he uses different tools like the Bambu for where there is good use for them. He is also a good teacher.
That cutaway at 7:50 where you put on your respirator and in the background the Darth Vader poster was revealed had me rolling on the floor. Hillarious.
Catching up on a backlog of RUclips videos. There are so many. This one is as massively satisfying as usual. Your channel is on the subscription list of the living room RUclips account. Strebel works demand a big screen presentation. Cranked up loud with a subwoofer. And lots of rewinding and reviewing. Even the spowess thinks it's okay. It's "comforting"
Man, Eric! You have ALL the best Toys! I mean tools... I learned many little tricks here and there on this video alone! It was a meditation watching you work. Thank you!
this is amazing, i watch a lot of maker channels, and i don't think any of them have the same level of skill and give me the same feeling as watching a very talented artist making something.
The Hat Trick! Awesome and very instructional as usual. Thanks for taking the time to produce these and spreading your knowledge and experience, Eric. Greatly appreciated.
beeeeeeaaaauutiful work....lancias are works of art...these lights shells are works of art.....thanks for taking us on the journey.....i purchased one of your hangers...thanks for the awesome content from a fledgling fellow maker...
Phenomenal work Eric! This video is such a great example of the process and the challenges of making replica parts. Showing the wins and set backs will help everyone looking to learn how to make similar parts. Thank you for showing how to use our products correctly, including the safety aspect of using PPE when working around resins. Kudos 👍
Hi Eric, Great video, really enjoyed watching your process! I'd really like to see a video on how you'd go about costing a job like this. (Especially with the extra time + materials due to the unforeseen parts). And also about how you'd manage client expectations when a job scope changes/ gets drawn out! I'm a self-employed Product Designer from the UK. I mainly focus is on 3D design and technical drawings, but rapid prototyping and model making is a field that I really want to branch out into. it's difficult to know how to break down and cost a job accurately when there are multiple factors involved! (IE: Design time, materials, preparation, mold-making, casting, allowing for rejects, wear and tear on machines, ETC!) Would love to hear what you think! :D
They ARE also used on the Bitter SC, and last I checked, which is some time ago, they were still available from the Monte Hospital in the UK. Has that inventory been depleted or ? If so, they might be interested in restocking from you, as well as some other suppliers stateside. BJB "5150" always cracks me up- 5150 is the code for a psychiatric hold. Great job on the molds!
I own a handful of vintage Bimmers and after 40+ years quality spare parts are getting harder and harder to find (assuming you could ever find them in the first place!) Ive been thinking about how to do this for a while but figured the retroreflectors/diffusers would be a nightmare to recreate but this looks super handy!
Really good job. You probably could add some discussion about design considerations regarding the splitter piece and generally how you define how the mold is going to be. Also, that Bitter Parts website is something else. Couldn't even post their address.
Thanks for the awesome video, this is perfect. The good thing is that Tali lights were separate pieces for different colours. I think I will split my tail light by colour and cast them. Thanks for the tip. I am missing the pressure pot though.
Your videos are very interesting (that's why I subscribed a while ago) and I find it amazing that you mix up the exact amout of resin you need. Is there a formula you use or a calculator to determine how much resin a casting will take? It's probably second nature to you because you've been doing it so long and many times. Thank you for your videos.
I have been replicating similar parts for an interest group here in the UK. Usually indicator units, lights and even plastic body parts that are so rare now that the prices were becoming eye wateringly expensive. I love the splitter board idea and must invest some time into that. Also the use of syringes as you do is ace. Just out of interest is there a standard way of pricing your parts? I am a little all over the place with my pricing but my parts are best around when you compare to others attempts of recreating. I would love to have a proper chat with you about everything but your help through the videos you post has been invaluable. Keep up posting the good work, its awesome 🙂👍
Wonderfully supportive and inspirational as always, thank you, Eric! 🙂 How do you remove the resin that gets stuck in the vent holes?... just poke them out with a copper rod?
Great video about your process, that was a lot of work! I am doing a lot of silicone and resin casts, I can't get the BJB resins in Europe unfortunately. I liked how you used copper wire as your vents - I don't get it how the superglue glues them on the plastic. I've used wooden toothpicks as vents (after trying many other things that did not glue with superglue) Your results are amazing. And clever pour funnel by the way. Cheers!
@@EricStrebelthanks .inwas lucky to get away with brushing them with lightened Vaseline after I glued them. Where I am at, they never heard of accelerator!
Do the replicated reflectors actually work? IE if you shine light from varying angles does it get reflected back to where it came from? In order for them to work in that manner, the angles have to be very precise as the light isn't just being reflected once but several times internally and the material needs to have a suitable refraction index - i'm assuming you might already know this but you don't seem to mention any testing of the final product. It looks as though the refraction might be fine as when you move it around it seems smooth and shiny enough. Much like optical lenses however, they are very simplistic devices but require high precision to function correctly - i'm curious if the molding process retained this precision adequately or not. Other than that they look great and i really like how you explained not just what you were doing but the why, very informative!
I was at the last show Motörhead did here in Austin. Love that sprue with the syringe. Great way to do that. Are you able to get the resin back out of the syringes when you leave em in for pressurizing, or are they considered consumables?
Excellent guide. How long did the whole process take? Also, what will happen if you subject the resin to a vacuum/low pressure in order to get rid of the bubbles? Or is that not an option?
Fantastic videos as usual 👌. Eric, I cast a 60s beaker using a vacuum chamber & pressure pot, however, I noticed when preparing for part two of the silicone the rim of the silicone on part A was coming away from the rim of the beaker, allowing air down the side. This in turn allowed silicone to seep in when I placed the liquid silicone ontop and in the pressure tank. How can I avoid this?
You must take great care to ensure that the master parts stays secure in the first half of the mold, there is no way to undue this if it comes away from the mold, redoing the mold is often the only solution
@@EricStrebel I secured the master to a clay base with the keys pressed in. I unfortunately have to remove the clay first. I also use foamboard as the walls. Is this probably too weak?
How Do, Eric! I spoke to my suppliers of clear polyurethane and they told me that I should be getting nearly 50 cast from my mould which is crazy! They did mention using release agent to prolong the mould lifespan but I'm not sure if that'll effect the mould finish. Something else they mentioned was to polish the matt mould surface with silicone fluid which I've never heard of. He said this may replenish the silicone surface restoring the glass finish but I'm skeptical...
Eric, why do you not ever pressure cure the molds. Especially if you’re pressure casting urethane, any possible bubbles suspended in the silicone will collapse under pressure even if they are tiny. However, fine detailed items and such will form much better without having to vibrate or brush on ribbed details.
Hello Erik. I'm having trouble finding silver/metalic grey pigment/tint for PU rubber. I've tried Mica power, alcohol inks... Everything causes cure inhibition so far. I'm getting desperate. What would you recommand ? Almost all PU pigments I find only works for PU resin, not rubber. And for only rubber, I only found a few "regular" primary colors, such as red, white, black etc.
51056 purple polish from 3M, I have added a link in the description. Not cheap, but it's the best polish I have ever used and I get excellent results with it on a variety of materials.
Eric, one more question. If I degas the silicone and leave it in the chamber for an hour and there's no more bubbles then do I really need to put it in the pressure pot for the rest of its curing time or do you think i can get away with casting in the pressure pot after it's cured without pressure? After all there should be no bubbles for the pressure pot to crush and there's no risk of the silicone seeping into part A of the mould.
@@EricStrebel No no, I mean the Silicone not the resin. I'll still pressurise the resin when casting but can I use a Silicone mould in a pressure pot that's only been degassed when it was initially moulded.
@@EricStrebel ah! I was told if you don't cure it under pressure then when you put it under pressure when casting clear resin I can cause bubbles on the surface of your cast. I'll not pressurise it next time. Thanks Eric!
Yet another quick question. I've just cast the third water clear polyurethane resin beaker in my mould and the glass shiny surface of the silicone has gone matt already. Is three casts before the mould is useless normal or have I gone wrong again?
Awesome! I've even seen people make casts and scans of the exterior of the real deal and then print inner sections themself to make new shapes for LED upgrades. Can lead to awesome results on projects that want to give 80s cars the cyberpunk treatment (like the extra visual oomph for EV conversions). BTW: What's your long-time experience on using a drill press as a poor man's milling machine? I've always felt the urge for similar plastic work, but at the same times there's that talk online about motors/bearings like that not being designed to handle such sideways forces.
The drill press has variable speed from a treadmill motor, long term it's been fantastic and a great option for milling wood and plastic and occasionally some sort of aluminum. I have a video about the upgrade actually.
the irony here is that someone sent him old parts to make new parts but the process to make the old parts actually made them look new LOL so if he only needed one set he overpaid!
Americans are in shock about danish forrest kindergardens, and you are cutting wood an a table saw, using just your hands to guid the wood..... OMG,- be a role model,- safety first.... Nice project though
@@EricStrebel That would make me very nervouse to trust a marketing blurb. Not sure I could put all that labor into an item, and charge a customer up the wazoo only for it to fail and feel good about myself. But maybe that's just me.
@@GeorgeGraves Hi, manufacturer here. We have 50+ years of making aliphatic based polyurethane resins. We don't make a claim on UV resistance unless it has the chemistry appropriate for the application. Most resins won't do what BJB's Water Clear systems will do (we have plenty of those resins for different applications). We have many aftermarket automotive brands that use our products specifically due to how they weather outdoors compared to many DIY hobby resin systems. We have also provided material systems for countless outdoor art projects and theme parks using this type of chemistry. No marketing blurb, we have the parts in the real world to back it up!
One of the best examples of a how-to video I've seen. The right combination of talking, filming and editing. Makes me almost wish I had a Lancia. (jk about the Lancia part)
As an Industrial Designer myself, I find this video mentally satisfying and wholesome, Nice Voiceover Eric
Thanks!
this is a masterclass in resin casting best practices
This guy is a pro. I watched all his videos. I like that he uses different tools like the Bambu for where there is good use for them. He is also a good teacher.
I will more than likely never use any of these techniques but it great to understand how it's done.
That cutaway at 7:50 where you put on your respirator and in the background the Darth Vader poster was revealed had me rolling on the floor. Hillarious.
😀🤘
Love that it is possible to create replicas of old out of production parts.
Catching up on a backlog of RUclips videos. There are so many.
This one is as massively satisfying as usual. Your channel is on the subscription list of the living room RUclips account. Strebel works demand a big screen presentation. Cranked up loud with a subwoofer. And lots of rewinding and reviewing. Even the spowess thinks it's okay. It's "comforting"
Nice
Man, Eric! You have ALL the best Toys! I mean tools...
I learned many little tricks here and there on this video alone!
It was a meditation watching you work.
Thank you!
this is amazing, i watch a lot of maker channels, and i don't think any of them have the same level of skill and give me the same feeling as watching a very talented artist making something.
The Hat Trick! Awesome and very instructional as usual. Thanks for taking the time to produce these and spreading your knowledge and experience, Eric. Greatly appreciated.
5150, my top 5 fave VH songs.
Very nice work, as usual.
wow okay using the printer scanner......damn now that is a great idea for future projects in fusion 360!!!!
beeeeeeaaaauutiful work....lancias are works of art...these lights shells are works of art.....thanks for taking us on the journey.....i purchased one of your hangers...thanks for the awesome content from a fledgling fellow maker...
Rock on!
Phenomenal work Eric! This video is such a great example of the process and the challenges of making replica parts. Showing the wins and set backs will help everyone looking to learn how to make similar parts. Thank you for showing how to use our products correctly, including the safety aspect of using PPE when working around resins. Kudos 👍
Thanks, great resins make it that much easier!
I always learn something from your videos, thank you for taking the time to make them.
Your welcome
Very impressive, it’s obvious that you have been perfecting your skills and techniques for many years. Thank you for sharing!
Your welcome
I really like your content, I'm learning so much from you. I really appreciate all the closeup shots!
holy crap man. This is IMPRESSIVE! Good job sir!
Hi Eric, Great video, really enjoyed watching your process!
I'd really like to see a video on how you'd go about costing a job like this. (Especially with the extra time + materials due to the unforeseen parts).
And also about how you'd manage client expectations when a job scope changes/ gets drawn out!
I'm a self-employed Product Designer from the UK. I mainly focus is on 3D design and technical drawings, but rapid prototyping and model making is a field that I really want to branch out into.
it's difficult to know how to break down and cost a job accurately when there are multiple factors involved! (IE: Design time, materials, preparation, mold-making, casting, allowing for rejects, wear and tear on machines, ETC!)
Would love to hear what you think! :D
They ARE also used on the Bitter SC, and last I checked, which is some time ago, they were still available from the Monte Hospital in the UK. Has that inventory been depleted or ? If so, they might be interested in restocking from you, as well as some other suppliers stateside.
BJB "5150" always cracks me up- 5150 is the code for a psychiatric hold.
Great job on the molds!
I own a handful of vintage Bimmers and after 40+ years quality spare parts are getting harder and harder to find (assuming you could ever find them in the first place!) Ive been thinking about how to do this for a while but figured the retroreflectors/diffusers would be a nightmare to recreate but this looks super handy!
Really good job. You probably could add some discussion about design considerations regarding the splitter piece and generally how you define how the mold is going to be.
Also, that Bitter Parts website is something else. Couldn't even post their address.
Thanks for the awesome video, this is perfect. The good thing is that Tali lights were separate pieces for different colours. I think I will split my tail light by colour and cast them. Thanks for the tip. I am missing the pressure pot though.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Excellent work. And explanation thx Eric.
Thanks and your welcome
this gives me so much anxiety. I'm so glad that i'm not the only one who goes through so many steps with failure tho
😀
Your videos are very interesting (that's why I subscribed a while ago) and I find it amazing that you mix up the exact amout of resin you need. Is there a formula you use or a calculator to determine how much resin a casting will take? It's probably second nature to you because you've been doing it so long and many times. Thank you for your videos.
Just basic math, and I use the metric scale, so everything is super easy
I have been replicating similar parts for an interest group here in the UK. Usually indicator units, lights and even plastic body parts that are so rare now that the prices were becoming eye wateringly expensive. I love the splitter board idea and must invest some time into that. Also the use of syringes as you do is ace. Just out of interest is there a standard way of pricing your parts? I am a little all over the place with my pricing but my parts are best around when you compare to others attempts of recreating. I would love to have a proper chat with you about everything but your help through the videos you post has been invaluable. Keep up posting the good work, its awesome 🙂👍
These look amazing, but will the resin withstand the UV exposure and wear and tear?
Yes
Wonderfully supportive and inspirational as always, thank you, Eric! 🙂
How do you remove the resin that gets stuck in the vent holes?... just poke them out with a copper rod?
Yes, I use a tool made with piano wire
Great work💯
Great video about your process, that was a lot of work! I am doing a lot of silicone and resin casts, I can't get the BJB resins in Europe unfortunately. I liked how you used copper wire as your vents - I don't get it how the superglue glues them on the plastic. I've used wooden toothpicks as vents (after trying many other things that did not glue with superglue) Your results are amazing. And clever pour funnel by the way. Cheers!
Wood is to absorbant, use and accelerant to set the super glue instantly
@@EricStrebelthanks .inwas lucky to get away with brushing them with lightened Vaseline after I glued them. Where I am at, they never heard of accelerator!
It's called kicker some times or insta set, it cures the cyanoacrylate very quickly, works great.
@@EricStrebel Thank you Eric, I will check it out!
Do the replicated reflectors actually work? IE if you shine light from varying angles does it get reflected back to where it came from?
In order for them to work in that manner, the angles have to be very precise as the light isn't just being reflected once but several times internally and the material needs to have a suitable refraction index - i'm assuming you might already know this but you don't seem to mention any testing of the final product.
It looks as though the refraction might be fine as when you move it around it seems smooth and shiny enough.
Much like optical lenses however, they are very simplistic devices but require high precision to function correctly - i'm curious if the molding process retained this precision adequately or not.
Other than that they look great and i really like how you explained not just what you were doing but the why, very informative!
Yes, they work
That is my question too.
I learn so much from your videos, thanks for sharing ^_^
Great job! Nice. 👏👏👏👍
Great video! I’m hoping you might have an answer on this, how would you go about casting new lenses that have two colors on one piece?
Mate, these look amazing!
Nice job man!
This is amazing!!!
Very nice work.
Thanks
Amazing molds, every time I see your molds It makes me realize how bad mine actually are.
Keep failing, they will get better.
AMAZING JOB !!! ... instantly subscribed
Thanks! Rock on!
Eric, did you say you were going to add a link where to order a set of these beautifully reproduced lenses? I couldn’t find it. Thanks
Apologies, I've added that!
@@EricStrebel 👍👍
WOW! That looks great!
I have no word!
Excellent !
I was at the last show Motörhead did here in Austin. Love that sprue with the syringe. Great way to do that. Are you able to get the resin back out of the syringes when you leave em in for pressurizing, or are they considered consumables?
Resin pops right out, reusable. Rock on brother 🤘
Excellent guide. How long did the whole process take?
Also, what will happen if you subject the resin to a vacuum/low pressure in order to get rid of the bubbles? Or is that not an option?
Fantastic videos as usual 👌. Eric, I cast a 60s beaker using a vacuum chamber & pressure pot, however, I noticed when preparing for part two of the silicone the rim of the silicone on part A was coming away from the rim of the beaker, allowing air down the side. This in turn allowed silicone to seep in when I placed the liquid silicone ontop and in the pressure tank. How can I avoid this?
You must take great care to ensure that the master parts stays secure in the first half of the mold, there is no way to undue this if it comes away from the mold, redoing the mold is often the only solution
@@EricStrebel I secured the master to a clay base with the keys pressed in. I unfortunately have to remove the clay first. I also use foamboard as the walls. Is this probably too weak?
Possibly, yes, I don't think I have ever used foamcore to make mold walls, but I do see a lot of people do this on RUclips
Great video and nice Amsterdam vlag!
This is great! Do you know any alternatives for BJB WC-753 in Europe?
Nope
How Do, Eric!
I spoke to my suppliers of clear polyurethane and they told me that I should be getting nearly 50 cast from my mould which is crazy! They did mention using release agent to prolong the mould lifespan but I'm not sure if that'll effect the mould finish. Something else they mentioned was to polish the matt mould surface with silicone fluid which I've never heard of. He said this may replenish the silicone surface restoring the glass finish but I'm skeptical...
Yeah I've never heard of that before either
Great video, Eric. How many tests did it take you to arrive at the right ratio of colorant to resin to color match the original parts?
A few
Nicely done man!
Impressive work. How do your remove leftover from strong glue at the original part? Polish and sand it?
Yes, it can be sanded carefully and polished
Is such resin on the same level as the original part, material wise? Since i heard even the thougher ones tend to yellow after some years.
According to the manufacturer it is
@@EricStrebel ok interesting 🤔 thx for the answer
Great video. Oh man, what a ton of work. Cool tips. Mahalo for sharing! : )
what heater on your pressure chamber are you using?
Custom heater band, you can get them on eBay
Eric, why do you not ever pressure cure the molds. Especially if you’re pressure casting urethane, any possible bubbles suspended in the silicone will collapse under pressure even if they are tiny. However, fine detailed items and such will form much better without having to vibrate or brush on ribbed details.
Hi, I wonder what tinting pigment do you use for the orange, and if it is UV resistant? Thank you
Yes, it's available on the BJB website
@@EricStrebelThank You ⭐️
Hello Erik. I'm having trouble finding silver/metalic grey pigment/tint for PU rubber. I've tried Mica power, alcohol inks... Everything causes cure inhibition so far. I'm getting desperate. What would you recommand ? Almost all PU pigments I find only works for PU resin, not rubber. And for only rubber, I only found a few "regular" primary colors, such as red, white, black etc.
Try aluminum powder
You can make back lights witch have 2 color (red and white or transparent) in the same casting mold?
What kind of polish do you use for the plastic?
51056 purple polish from 3M, I have added a link in the description. Not cheap, but it's the best polish I have ever used and I get excellent results with it on a variety of materials.
@@EricStrebel thank you! Missed that in the description. Cheers.
Good job
I didn't realize that fasteners were colored until the end!
What size wire did you use for your vents? 5:30
1mm
did you make the base as well?
No
Eric, one more question. If I degas the silicone and leave it in the chamber for an hour and there's no more bubbles then do I really need to put it in the pressure pot for the rest of its curing time or do you think i can get away with casting in the pressure pot after it's cured without pressure? After all there should be no bubbles for the pressure pot to crush and there's no risk of the silicone seeping into part A of the mould.
You will get bubbles just from pouring the resin and it will react with the moisture in the air, pressure pot is needed for most resins
@@EricStrebel No no, I mean the Silicone not the resin. I'll still pressurise the resin when casting but can I use a Silicone mould in a pressure pot that's only been degassed when it was initially moulded.
Silicone is not normally cured under pressure
@@EricStrebel ah! I was told if you don't cure it under pressure then when you put it under pressure when casting clear resin I can cause bubbles on the surface of your cast. I'll not pressurise it next time. Thanks Eric!
Yet another quick question. I've just cast the third water clear polyurethane resin beaker in my mould and the glass shiny surface of the silicone has gone matt already. Is three casts before the mould is useless normal or have I gone wrong again?
Im planning on doing this but wouldn't resin 3d printing the molds be way easier?
Sure it would, but your final part surface quality would be terrible.
@@EricStrebel I mean resin prints are smooth but if you want them to be even more you can sand them
Try, see how it goes
on the red part of the tail light how did you get the pattern it almost looked like it was in the middle my brain cant figure it out
Good job🙂🤪
Hello sir. May I know what kind of Resin using in this Video? Is it Polyester Resin?
Can you duplicate 2 bladed rc propeller
In theory anything is possible it's just a matter of money
Would you do a lens for my classic car
Contact me through www.botzen.vom
@@EricStrebel emailed you
Awesome
Sir if this resin is non yellowing ??
UV stable
What do you do with your used moulds?
Not much
I believe you are more than capable of making a better product than the backpacker hanger and boost your sales
I design all kinds of hand held and table top products.
Hi Eric,
I think your work with resin is absolutely brilliant. I also have a question for you. How can I contact you?
Link in the description
@@EricStrebel OK, I sent you an email
👍👍👍👍👍
That was good.
Thanks
WOW 🎉
wHATS A SPLITER BOARD?
How don't they get yellowed under the sun?
Beautiful to watch!
Are you never tempted to change the date markers or add a makers mark? :)
Eh, if I was making something custom for myself, then I would sand all the marks off and maybe ad my own.
Awesome!
I've even seen people make casts and scans of the exterior of the real deal and then print inner sections themself to make new shapes for LED upgrades. Can lead to awesome results on projects that want to give 80s cars the cyberpunk treatment (like the extra visual oomph for EV conversions).
BTW: What's your long-time experience on using a drill press as a poor man's milling machine? I've always felt the urge for similar plastic work, but at the same times there's that talk online about motors/bearings like that not being designed to handle such sideways forces.
The drill press has variable speed from a treadmill motor, long term it's been fantastic and a great option for milling wood and plastic and occasionally some sort of aluminum. I have a video about the upgrade actually.
why didn't you remachine a pocket on the molded part and opted instead for destroying the good part any special reason?
Replication error, plus it would not factory
Молодцом!
Is there a link to the final product?
Forgot to add that, thanks for reminding me. It's in place now.
I know you're American when u use a Powertool for the smallest Screw.... ;-)
And you would suggest?
the irony here is that someone sent him old parts to make new parts but the process to make the old parts actually made them look new LOL so if he only needed one set he overpaid!
I don't mean to be foul....but my reaction when you removed the first clear lens..."FUCK ME". they are the best reproduction lenses i have seen.
Lol, thanks
Americans are in shock about danish forrest kindergardens, and you are cutting wood an a table saw, using just your hands to guid the wood..... OMG,- be a role model,- safety first.... Nice project though
You really should do a set of these and put them out in the sun for a while. Otherwise all this work is for not.
Uv stable resin, mfg has already done that work
@@EricStrebel That would make me very nervouse to trust a marketing blurb. Not sure I could put all that labor into an item, and charge a customer up the wazoo only for it to fail and feel good about myself. But maybe that's just me.
@@GeorgeGraves Hi, manufacturer here. We have 50+ years of making aliphatic based polyurethane resins. We don't make a claim on UV resistance unless it has the chemistry appropriate for the application. Most resins won't do what BJB's Water Clear systems will do (we have plenty of those resins for different applications). We have many aftermarket automotive brands that use our products specifically due to how they weather outdoors compared to many DIY hobby resin systems. We have also provided material systems for countless outdoor art projects and theme parks using this type of chemistry. No marketing blurb, we have the parts in the real world to back it up!
They make an excellent product, that's why I use it, they stand by tier claims and they are valid. No need to reinvent the wheel here.
Totally far-out