Using & Reviewing Powercast Burn castable resin with my Elegoo Mars - detailed home castings! VOGMAN
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Powercast Burn castable resin + my Elegoo Mars printer = probably the most detailed home casting I've ever done. I was thrilled to be able to review Powercast Burn. Let's face it, castable resin isn't cheap. But does it work? Does it print? Does it produce good quality castings? And what settings are needed for the Elegoo Mars? All of this is covered here, along with commonly quoted complaints about castable resin.
POWERCAST BURN RESIN INFORMATION:
powerresins.com
ELEGOO MARS INFORMATION:
For more information on this excellent printer, visit this link:
ow.ly/qonL50vGFiT
** EQUIPMENT & PRODUCTS USED **
I often get asked where I buy my investment powder, what type of oven do I use, etc, so to make life easy I’ve made a list with links on my website here vegoilguy.co.uk...
** GREAT RINGS & MORE **
These guys make excellent rings, pendants and more bit.ly/3dHl2P8
Get 20% discount with the coupon code VOG20
** DISCLAIMER **
This video is for and educational and entertainment purposes. Do not try and replicate what you see here without proper equipment, safety gear and a thorough understanding of the processes involved. It is a VERY dangerous.
This resin was given to me, free of charge and without obligation. No money has changed hands and the only agreement made was that I video an INDEPENDENT review, expressing my own personal and above all honest thoughts on the product.
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OMG I HAVE NEVER EVER SEEN SO PERFECT CASTING.... Great job...
Many thanks : )
I know it's crazy. Wish I had one.
Good...🇬🇧👍
Thanks Glenn : )
Wow.. Does it get better? Where from here.. I bet the Mint will be keeping an eye on you.
Shhh... don't tell them ; )
With this information you have given me, I will be able to manufacture my own arcade tokens.
Yes, quite easily : )
You could buy A LOT of tokens for the cost of the printer, resin, investment, various tools, and of course your time. I hope you are thinking of doing it for other than financial reasons.
TangoDeltaDelta I guess it's just for the achievement and the feeling of tricking a machine, even if it's not worth it. I felt so great when I once put a round piece of wood into one of those old chewing gum machines and it actually worked, although it wasn't worth the time getting a piece of wood into the shape of a small coin.
@@TangoDeltaDelta he'd only need to print a single master..then make a mold for wax from that...i understand they have a wax filament now
@@imperialpresence3331 In this, VOG was burning out the master printed piece. If you use another generation of molding or a filament instead of resin, you are going to lose some resolution / fidelity. The quality and crispness of what VOG did is what's impressive.
Wow, your casts were mint!
That's the resin doing its job : )
that's the highest detail metal casting i've seen on youtube! do you think there's a limit to the level of detail that can be achieved by casting though? maybe the shrinkage of the metal while it's cooling or its viscosity while molten would prevent you from getting micrometre wide grooves?
A tip: you can roughen the plate with sand paper to make castable resin stick better instead of "priming" it.
You have your gold medal at the 3D Olympics 💟
Many thanks : )
@@vogman Now you should cast an olympic medal in aluminium bronze!
Hi VOG. I've been waiting for this success from you. I'm venturing in to the world of casting and I've watched your vids with great interest. It's got to be said that not every attempt you've done came out great (not a criticism). I've been waiting for that day to come where you can finally say "it came out really well" and I agree it did. Now we need consistency for it to be successful.
I have to say mostly everything I'm going to do I've learned from your vids so thanks for that.
Great job 👌👌
I'm my own biggest critic Mark so I understand what you mean. Casting has been a fun self-taught journey for me and I believe I still have a long way to go. There are so many variables to nail perfectly to obtain high quality and consistency. I may never achieve it, but I'll keep trying : )
How many of those coins and plaques can you get from a $100 bottle? You've really come a long way those small details are almost beyond belief. It's an achievement to see this quality in investment you should be proud, I'm proud for watching you do it! Well done man. On leaving the casting raw, I've made patterns for sand castings and I like to get the part back as unmolested as possible. It's not lazy, what if he wants to do more work then the extra metal will make it easier to clamp and stronger around the edges plus he should finish it. Leave him some metal. Foundries often charge by the pound on delivery so the customer is paying for the extra metal and you're getting paid for scrap.
Thanks Brian : )
I have to say I haven't a clue how many... a fair few I'd imagine. I think for multiple castings of the same pattern I'd stick with silicone moulding. That would make more sense. But one-off pieces are better suited to this resin... after all silicone moulding isn't cheap. I do mainly one-offs, so for me a resin like this makes sense : )
Will you keep testing other burnable resins as they become available?
Yes, Kieran, that's the plan. There's a wide variety on the market and the price puts folks off "trying" them. If I can take away some of that guesswork (as I hope I did here with Powercast Burn) then hopefully people will be more confident about trying. After all, those failed prints were technically very costly... but hopefully others can now avoid them : )
I have got two other companies making encouraging noises... but not Formlabs ; )
Hi VOG, those results look great! Thank you for sharing.
Some ANICUBIC Photon users sand their build plate carefully to get better adhesion (and to make it more even).
Regarding castable resins I could recommend to try HarzLabs (Russian company, maybe you have a distributor in th UK other wise edv-3d-druck(dot)de is a German distributor) or Druckwege(dot)de resins (German company). They are a little cheaper if I recall correctly. Both should ship to the UK. Good luck.
Thanks Gerrit. I'll drop both companies a line : )
What amazing detail! It looks like there is faint vertical 'banding' on these prints that unfortunately is faithfully reproduced in the cast. Is this an issue with the printer, or just something that has to be lived with using the current MSLA technology? Either way, very impressive results.
You're absolutely right John. I can see it to. As I said in the video, I'm new to resin printing... I'm sure better positioning, reduced layer heights and tweaked setting could produce better results. But please remember one thing... unlike many casting channels, I ZOOOOOOOM in on the castings. So the view you have is better than the one I have. In the hand these things look amazing. Zoomed in the quality obviously drops a little. But for home casting and largely homemade equipment, it's not bad : )
Wonderful casts, VOG !
I'm sad you didn't do a vid with "regular" resin, since i was reaaaally expecting it from you :-)
Will you try it ? Soon ?
It's on the to-do list : )
@@vogman Do you know DIY ? DO IT YESTERDAY :p
I'm about to try it : my print is in the plaster, waiting for the plaster to dry. Then i'll put it in furnace. But i want to see what it does when YOU do it the perfect way.
Me and Perfect have never met : )
Sébastien C how’d it go I’m debating on burning out with elegoos grey resin but I’m not sure if I should the castable resin is really expensive
Way to go VegOil that is truly a successful casting . You are getting really quite good at it .
Have a wonderful weekend and get some rest you truly deserved it .
Many thanks : )
Thank you. I will use this to create counterfeit $1 coins.
Good luck with that : )
I guarantee you could make something that LOOKS identical, but it would feel all wrong. The weight would never match. Most vending machines are pretty well tuned to spot even tiny variations.
The general rule of the Mint, which I think is very clever, is that it always costs more to counterfeit : )
AHAHAHA !!! XD
100$ divided by 250grams of resin is 0.4$ per gram. One single dollar coin weighs about 8.75 grams, meaning that you need to spend 3.5 REAL DOLLARS to make a fake one...
Couldn't you do the math BEFORE ? XD
Meh...
I'll have to look into this printer, that is fantastic detail, I didn't know that was possible, Great vid, got me excited and made my day.
Excellent. Glad to hear it : )
One thing no one mentions is the funky background music. It's also at the perfect volume level in my opinion. :-D
That's very kind, thanks 😁
Heck yeah! It is very enjoyable!
Thank you so much for your videos! What is your favourite of the castable wax resins you have used so far? Im using a Creality LD-002r. struggling to find the best resin to buy to lost wax cast jewellery.
Hi Vog, i hope you be fine, first of all i thank you for all you share, you help a lot! i have a doubt about your burn out cycle with powerResins, i´m kinda lost... i' ve seen in your videos an image where you show the burning ramps for the casting but at this video you say you place the flask button-down one hour and then you flipped button-side up one eighty to release the gases (produced by resin), may i ask you what time and temperature did you set at each ramp? i know some providers suggest a method but the clearly differ! :( thanks for all!
You didn't mention the investment used so I'll assume it's mentioned in your other videos. I'll also assume you used an investment not designed for resin. What you'll find is the investment used is extremely important for obtaining perfect surfaces. Probably the most popular among jewelers right now using castable resins is Prestige Optima. I've never tried it though, I'm currently using Ti-Research's Hi-Speed RP Investment, which works great, but you need a hammer and chisel or pressure washer to break it up. Quenching only somewhat improves this, with this investment.
I've tried numerous castable resins of over the years and the best I've found is Bluecast. It's all about getting those surfaces coming out perfect! I look forward to seeing your future videos on these castable resins. Subscribing.
Thanks for the input.
This is the plaster I'm using - www.hswalsh.com/product/pioneer-smoothcast-investment-powder-tc0451 - it's suiting well for the moment. I'm still learning and have a long way to go. Sharing ideas and reading feedback is all part of that journey : )
Hi VOG, I've been using the same resin and never primed the build plate, and I made maybe 25 prints or so without having any of them no adhere to the build plate. All of a sudden though, nothing is adhering. I had a file in chitubox I printed successfully, then did it again and one of the molds fell off, then in later attempts more started falling until now they all fall. The only variables that changed were that it had gotten colder now. I tried heating the resin up but I got the same result. Now I'm wondering if perhaps the resin has gotten old or changed in some way? I will keep trying, but I'll have to start priming the build plate I guess. What do you do to clean the primer off the plate?
I've not used castable resin before but pre priming the plate seems unnecessary.
Set you initial base layer cure time to something large. The 80s you are using is insufficient. Go no less than 100s. 120-140 for peace of mind. Then your base layers will be properly cooked and secure to your print plate. It adds a couple of minutes to the print but much less than dicking about pre priming the build plate. The only negative to a longer base layer other than a few minutes of time is a loss of detail due to such a long exposure time, but because it's the base layer and there is no detail to lose it's irrelevant.
Also that just seems a terrible idea, if your properly leveled all that resin cured on the plate will cause high spots and not leave clearance for the initial layer. It would push into the FEP causing more rapid deterioration of the FEP and possibly puncture it.
You can also increase the amount of base layers to 10 or 12 to increase the strength of the base. The main cause of a print coming away from the build plate I have found is due to a support being too close to the edge of it's platform and peels the base up, eventually peeling the whole print off. A thicker base with a longer cure time does not flex as easily and therefore does not peel at the edge.
Another thing you can do is increase the raft size to 130% which will give a larger surface area for the print to overcome before it can fall off.
Hopefully that helps you in future so you don't need to much around with multiple priming layers etc.
Can you share with me your burnout cycle for this product and your casting temperature as well?
Those came out perfect 👌🏻 well done Geoff! 🍻🍻
Thanks mate : )
i bought powerresin burn after watching your video. even i did priming the build plate before printing i cant print any models. could you let me know why this happend . im anycubic photon user and setted it powerresins recommended.
$100 for 250mL?! Holy hell, and I thought it was expensive when I see specialty resins that are $100 for 1L. 😨 250mL won't even fill a Mars or Photon's resin vat... Darn fine results though! 👍
I know what you mean. There's probably enough to do the resin tank 3 or 4 times, but it's still pricey for the quantity. But as a castable resin, it works very well : )
@VOG have you printed a wax injection mold?
for smoother castings, without the minor layer lines, consider curing your prints while they are slightly damp with resin. The surface tension of the resin will just fill the layer lines and give nice glossy surface finish. i use this method to finish prints with transparent resins, giving the models an optically clear coloured glass effect. i think this would compliment your casting process nicely. great video! keep up the good work!
Nice suggestion. Thanks : )
I'm new and I bought this resin, does it require any special type of investment or can I use the same investment used for regular wax models?
Great, which kind of investment powder do you use?
Have you used Fun To Do castable red yet? I just got some, it prints very very nicely, but I can't seem to get it all to burn out
I love this. U have inspired me VOG. I wasn’t sure about u at first, but I keep watching and love you now! Thanks for the info and inspiration! Also, with the train items, it is better if the guy from AK finishes it bc they have to fit his trains, so he can sand them to fit instead of you doing it and potentially messing it up.
Awesome! Thank you!
Hell yeah! This is awesome VOG! I'd be super hyped to see if this can get such amazing results for a mini.... :D
It looks even better in your hand : )
So what was the total cost of these parts then ?
The resin cost according to the slicer software was around £7 for the 6 parts I cast : )
coins are amazing, maybe "straight" knurl on one like our dimes (.10 cents) in USA...
Many thanks : )
Sand the build plate, really helps with adhesion.
That detail on your second go around was amazing--congratulations! I have been chasing the casting coin goal myself and while I'm past hockey pucks, I'm not at "like a real coin" level just yet! Good job and keep the vids coming!
I wouldn't say I'm there yet, but at least I've taken a step closer and so can anyone using these techniques and similar equipment : )
What settings did you use for the Elegoo Mars?
Very nice prints. The cast turned out even better. I'm going to look at a kiln setup tomorrow, to serve as a burn out oven and such. Might Finally be on my way to a little lost wax/pla casting now.
That's a decision you won't regret. The extra control makes things so much easier : )
Absolutely stunning casts. I see you didn't do your usual over flow cast vent. Any particular reason. Thanks for sharing with. Bloody brilliant quality.
Trust me I'm missing that basin. Did you see the small debris falling from the crucible?
I didn't want to introduce PLA into the equation. Wax is know to be ash free and is regularly mixed with castable resin. I'll be finding a way to bring my basin back : )
@@vogman I got a sample sized spool of TPU filament, which is somewhat flexible. I was going to print a copy of your basin type sprue base without the center taper on my filament printer. That way it could be reused like the commercial rubber bases. With a hole in it like the commercial bases it could be married to a PLA or wax sprue. My fiber printer is pretty low end and wasn't happy trying to print the TPU filament. It just plugged the nozzle, but this should be worth pursuing if one had the correct printer for one of the more flexible filaments.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE MAKE A COMPARISON VIDEO!!!!
Compare other castable resins .vs. normal SLA/MSLA uv resins just to see if normal resins compare to the "castable" type
That will come my friend. I'm still gathering data.
What type of investment are you using?
Very nice congratulations.
Thanks from Italy
Thanks Madda : )
Really good looking castings. the price of the resin though.. owch!
Unfortunately that's the old supply and demand thing... they're never going to sell millions, so the price can't come down. But maybe as these resins become more popular - and I really think they will - the price may half. We can but hope : )
@@vogman ISupply and demand goes both ways, if they lowered the price they would sell more units... and make more money.
Don't get me on my soapbox Peter. You're preaching to the converted here mate : D
@@vogman I haven't looked at castable resin prices, but have to wonder it the only maker that was willing to donate a bottle of resin to you was also the one most able to afford it because of they charge higher prices???
By priming (times 4) what you did was change the Z zero value by the thickness of the 4 coats. Perhaps you lost your original Z zero point during normal use??? Maybe it needs to be re-zeroed after every few uses? Or maybe it needs a 0.5 mm base pad in the design?
I found it made absolutely no difference at all : )
As the use of this product becomes more mainstream, the price will come down. It's just the way things work. ^_*
Agreed 😁
This makes me wonder how the Royal Mint, for example, produces millions of coins all identical.
I believe most coins are stamped 😁
For those of y'all wondering what "methylated spirits" are, in the USA they're called "denatured alcohol", and you can pick it up cheaply at hardware stores all over the country. It will generally be clear, rather than purple, as the purple comes from a dye they're required to use overseas so that people know that the alcohol is not safe for human consumption.
Thanks for sharing that : D
Very nice video thanks. When you pour in your investment are you using a vibrating and/or vaccuum to remove the air bubbles that stick to the resin, in particular between the letters? If you do not have a vacuum bell, try using vibrating pad to remove trapped bubbles.
Hi Ken. At that time, I was using a homemade vacuum system. It works great ruclips.net/video/EGNnH_xbjR4/видео.html
Awesome video from Ace Bullion. I have received a link to your video and glad I did
Many thanks : )
which is the best cheap castable resin ?
I want a Nobel prize for myself. Think you can cast one?
I scaled down one, no worries : D
It worked perfectly and you can afford to use it. You can try cheaper resins but when you find something that works perfectly and you can actually afford it's hard to justify getting something else unless you are cutting costs and aiming for a profit.
I know what you mean. When you find the one that works for you, price becomes less important... it still matters, but if it makes working easier, it makes the price more bearable. Do you see my review of Powercast Wax? I thought I loved Burn until I tried Wax... ruclips.net/video/xNipIFMKta4/видео.html
I literally exclaimed oh my god when I saw the details captured in the second casting
I was the same : )
I bought the power cast dark. Any suggestions on profile settings? For the elegoo Mars. & what type of alcohol should I use ?
Start with the same setting I used here. It seems a sensible starting point. After that you can tweak if you feel it's necessary 😊
I added your settings to the community resin setting doc for the Elegoo Mars. Hope you don't mind. Feel free to make any changes to it. You can find it here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dV-mvE8IojXSNiUHf8fHf_eHJGAQzbeFEalcP4bdnsg/edit#gid=0
Mind? I'm thrilled. What a fabulous resource. Thanks for doing that : )
Amazing video!! I really enjoy watching them. Hey what do you use to polish the coins?
Thanks Lucas. There's lots of methods to polish, but these days I tend to use a Foredom - ruclips.net/video/oyI1HwwUVqE/видео.html
HELP!! What Temp/ Process did you use to yield such a great burn out ?
Be guided by your investment powder and metal pour temperatures 😁
First time 3D printing and I used that resin. Nothing was on the build plate my piece was floating in the resin half way done. I didn’t know what to do being so new and hearing about adhesion the first time. After about 2 hours of searching I found you video. I hope the setting and Prepping the build plate works! Thank you sir.
You are a life saver thank you for your knowledge in the 3d printer business that priming trick works to perfection.
Glad to help 😁
you are brilliant !!! but why you dont use CNC for this project
To be honest Robert, I don't have a CNC and I think most people are the same. Resin printers might not be very common, but they're becoming more popular all the time : )
Don't know if its any good for burn out but it's biodegradable and a plant based resin bud heres the link,
www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-plant-based-uv-resin?KOL-myfordboy&
I'm not sure it's castable, but it's nice to see more natural alternatives. The beauty of PLA is that is soya based.
Let's hope they reduce the price a bit though : )
Thanks for the share 👍😁
What burn cycle did you use for this resin? Is the investment special for resin or can one be used for metals such as silver and gold? Greetings and good video.
Hi Eduardo. I used the same burnout cycle that I typically use for my plaster. I will be describing that in this weeks video but if you look at any of my Lost PLA videos, I usually mention it there : )
This might be a very novice question, but is it advised to prime the build plate for every print or would it suffice to prime it before the first print and then you're set? I'm assuming the first but would be interesting to hear anyone's thoughts.
Hello Good video, could you please tell me where to buy the casting flask you use!!
Hi John... head here - ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html - I think it's in the list of products I use shown in the description. If not, look for the Plaster and that's the place I buy from : )
You are killing it brother! Keep it up!
The resin's doing all the hard work : )
@@vogman oh well, in that case, keep standing idly by. 😆
I remember you deleted my comment about formlabs... haha :)
It's normally me saying nasty things about Formlabs 😁
The casts look great. Have you tried BlueCast?
I haven't tried Bluecast yet. I've written to them but heard nothing yet. Fingers crossed : )
My powerrein wont stick to the build plate. Does that mean it needs to be primed?
It could be Peter. have a look at today video which covers this topic - ruclips.net/video/zfNATNOfojA/видео.html
what printer yoiu are using? that is amazing, keep going boss.
It's just an ordinary Elegoo Mars. Great printers.
Is there any way to vent the bottom so you can avoid the flip? I expected that wax would need to be vented, anyway.
I don't know in honesty. It's not something I'd thought on yet. The wax seems to drip out nicely : )
Great video, the casts look amazing. What time and temperature did you use to burnt the resin out?
Too bad its so expensive :( maybe if it was the price of normal resin i would use it
Yes... quality comes with a cost. I do have a few budget resins that I'll hopefully be testing and sharing soon : )
Planetary gear. When?
The prints are great but I gotta admit that I do not enjoy being reminded how great that printer is when I do not have one myself.
I'll just keep nagging about the planetary gear until you are too fed up to ignore me :P.
But seriously if you like resin casting right now, do your thing.
You've lost me with the planetary gears... I did do one of those a while back.
I'm always pushing for better. I don't try to alienate anyone. I hate that. As someone of limited means I hate watching videos where they say, "All you need to make this is a laser assisted CNC cutter, a programmable lathe and several ton of gold ore." I find it insulting. But here I've been handed a chance to try a printer that makes my FDM look antique and of course I immediately realised the implications for my casting.
For instance, gears would now be sooooo much better. No annoying hours of sanding to fit.
@@vogman sry. Didn't mean to annoy you. You said you were going to build something with the gears and I thought maybe you could do that.
I was more joking with the envy than actually being serious.
Mate, you didn't annoy me... I was concerned I'd let you down : )
I've got more projects spinning in my head than I have time to deal with them. I'll get there one day...,
I have that printer, but none of the rest of his gear. But I still like the videos nonetheless
Now he can make his own money! Machines maybe won't recognise it.
If only I could cast bank transfers ; )
Stunningly good casts. And with no vacuum assist?
Thanks Gordon, but there is a vacuum... it's a very low budget vacuum but it works : )
ruclips.net/video/EGNnH_xbjR4/видео.html
Grandeeeeee!
Many thanks
So in your opinion is this the best castable resin? Or is there a better option out there. Also could you just use the regular resin in a burnout oven
I like the Powercast Wax. It's my favourite so far. Is there better? Possibly... I won't know until I've tried them all : )
I got worried when you said castable resin was £100 ... then i realised it was for burning off that would have scuppered me ☺.
And priming the build plate with resin was a brilliant idea gives you a larger scrapping area for the removal tool as well as adherence 👍.
Results perfect
It is expensive, but how much are you using? In this example, I had 5 castings on the plate with an estimated resin value of around £7. How much would I have paid someone else to make such high quality metal items : )
@@vogman i totally agree, my goal is to cast in silicone to make resin copys, i got worried you needed a different printer resin to do that. I been reading too much into the subject and getting my terminology all muddled... probably how you felt when you first got started 👍 .... you cannot skimp on quality materials rule 1
I like silicone moulds but I think you lose a little definition. After all you're casting a copy of a copy. But if I was doing several of the same thing, that's what I'd do. A nice crisp resin print made into a silicone mould.
For one-off castings, which is mostly what I do, it makes sense to use castable resin. After all silicone isn't cheap either : )
@@vogman i am just too scared of burning my house down 😊.
This is very exciting news.
I think you should level your build plate instead of "priming" your build plate. Additional you should sand your buildplate a bit. And please increase the curing time of your first layers. That ensures that they stick better to your build plate :-)
Thanks, I do enjoy suggestions as I'm happy to learn. In this instance I can assure you than the plate was levelled. I have since also scratched the build plate a little and with this resin it didn't help. In fact the manufacturer actually recommends priming. I like the idea of the curing time though - thanks : )
Why can't regular resin be used? Does it not burn out?
I haven't tested it yet... but I will : )
Hi, does it have to be spacial plaster? or can you use any plaster of paris?
It's special plaster. Plaster of Paris doesn't work in the same way. If you look at this video - ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html - it covers the whole process, though in that case it's looking at PLA casting rather than resin, but everything else is the same. In the description I placed links to the plaster I use so you can see the sort of thing you're looking for : )
Adding that extra wax as a sprue seemed like a pit of a pain when it came to removing it, stand it up to let the gases out then upside down to let the material run out. What are your thoughts on that? The resins expensive so printing large sprues would be a waste for sure.
Hi VOG! How do you remove the primed layer on the build plate? I've gone through every comment lol. Light sanding?
Just a nice sharp metal scraper. If you check out more of my casting videos, you often see me using this technique : )
@@vogman thank you worked great!
Wonderfull video thanks for the share and the info
Thanks Justin : )
Uh excellent results. Happy to see you managed to get it working. Awesome, even after years of (mostly fdm) 3d printing i'm still learning new tricks 😃👍
We all learn all the time. That's the beauty of this hobby : )
Talk about a clean casting. Excellent job 👍
Thanks James : )
Start minting dollars, nobody gonna stop ya, only if you start minting pounds
Where does the air go, when you pour in the molten metal?
The vacuum pulls the air away : )
Really nice...! what is the thinest you can go?
As thin as you can print I guess : )
If only we could get beyond the experimental with this. As much as it's damn good fun messing about, it would be great to plug it in and let it do its biz while you put your feet up. No pain no gain, I suppose!
Keep struggling on our behalf, fella! 😎
Actually Geordie this stuff is getting pretty close. With the priming sorted, is was pretty easy to do : )
@@vogman Always appreciate your efforts, mate! Simply the best on any media platform. Rock on! 😎
What is that priming in build platform name
It's just the same resin painted on cured : )
Holy cow this stuff is expensive.
It is. But have you seen this? ruclips.net/video/mdHpgwGPzcE/видео.html
Glad you got it all sorted in the end! Looks amazing with that level of detail :) Try some true 3d models with lots of curves and 0.01mm layers to really push it if you can with that powercast? :)
I see you're still having power issues from the furnace. With my 3kg one it regularly tripped the RCD from the power demand of it running at full power for so long to melt bronze. To stop that, as it was getting pretty frustrating, I run an extension from the mains socket next to the cooker, which is on the same ring main as the cooker itself, and plug the furnace into that. Not tripped yet! :) If you've not got a socket next to cooker for that purpose, you can wire in an extension cable directly into the cookers connection that'll be hiding behind the cooker! Hope that helps stop the power outages for you too.
I've pretty much come to the same conclusions, though ironically it wasn't either furnace that tripped. It was the vacuum pump. I've rearranged the power supplies now so I'm hoping it won't happen again : )
@@vogman off topic question. Have you looked into ceramic shell casting as opposed to investment powder casting? I've got quite an excess of most the materials I need, I'd be happy to chuck some in the post next week if you wanted to give it a go for a future video? :)
Am I guessing you're not in the UK? I've actually looked for some and couldn't find any. I'm sure it's available but nowhere that I've seen yet. Yes, I've been very tempted. I understand it's useful for larger items (as is anything I can't fit in a flask). I'm sure postage would cost you a fortune and I'd hate to do that to you...
@@vogman nah man, I'm in the UK, up in Lancashire! :) Postage wouldn't cost much for me, courier shipping is so cheap xD It's useful for larger items, but you can also do small items too, I've done a few bits and bobs with it so far that have worked really well and to a good degree of accuracy. I could do with improving my process, like working out how to make a plate with adjustable holes in to go on vacuum chamber so I can get parts (with a lip added on to fit over the holes) to be done in a vacuum. Not actually needed that yet, but I'm thinking for larger parts I might.
What's your email, I'll send over a hello to ya and you can give me your addy, I'll make up a bundle of what you'll need to do at least a good few parts and post it over next Friday for ya!
I bought most of what I got in bulk, as it works out tons cheaper in the end, and so very much more than investment powder, which is just dreadful for how much material is wasted in comparison.
Wow, really great job and demonstration!
I wonder if normal sla resin can also be used..?
I didn't quite understand the difference.
Is it about that the resin used melts better, or is it about avoiding toxic gases that would be produced when normal sla resin is burned?
I hope someone knows the answer, or has tested it with normal sla resin.
Some folks claim ordinary resins can work, but some resins produce toxic gases when burned away, plus they can leave behind ash, etc. Casting resin generally burns cleanly and safely : )
@@vogman okay thank you. :)
These Elegoo Mars printers look awesome! I saw your review and Crafsman Steadycraftin's review. He did one with the Elegoo vs the Anycubic Photon S. This one looks very affordable and seems to do a good job. I should save up for one. I went to school for Engineering, Drafting, and Design. I was trained how to use Solidworks and worked with Startasys 3D printers. I have used the Creality CR-10S and liked it, when I modified stuff to make it better. This would be great though for creating characters and such. I have been playing around with Autodesk Mudbox because it allows me to sculpt more organic objects and save them as STL's. I really want to sculpt something in Mudbox, Print in resin, then silicone mold it, and then cast with resin. I need to make a video on that in the future. Great video though, this would be great for casting in metal! I will have to keep this resin in mind. Oh! and holding a grudge against Formlabs I see! LOL HA HA HA
A grudge? Me? Never... it's great being ignored by companies that look down on you ; )
In dental lab school they taught us to roughen the top of the flask to allow gas to escape. Been doing it for 14 years and never had to rotate the flask during burnout. For rough castings typically it is due to a improper burn out procedure or too loose of investment (too much water). That said, They look great!
Thanks Karlan. I've had others tell me the investment is porous enough to allow the gases through and you may well be right. Roughing the surface would increase the surface area so that's a logical idea. For the moment (as I'm new to it) I'll stick with the rotate technique. In a few weeks I might do a few experiments and see if I can spot differences. But I suspect I'll be bowing to your superior knowledge in the end : )
Hi again Karlan. I removed your second comment as it contained your email address, though I'm VERY grateful and have made a note of it. I'm always happy to those with more knowledge than me - and that's a LOT of people : )
Thanks again.
Great video Vog!! I'd like to ask you if the burnout cycle is too costly? I mean, in terms of energy consumption
Eduardo, I never look at the bill... it would scare me too much : )
@@vogman :)
Sorry to bother you with this, just asking because after watching your videos, I'm really excited to get started with my own castings, however if burnout process is too costly, I couldn't handle it. Would you say it reaches 100£ por cycle?