That's very kind : ) The truth is I have a VERY low boredom threshold. Doing the same thing more than once drives me mad. You can imagine how I struggled with this video ; )
Another good vid, thank you. It seems that a lot of pros don’t post cure their prints before burnout, this might help with support removal. Cheers, Pete
Good to have you back. Looks like you were hard at it. Difficult to choose, money or time, in some cases. It’d be cool to see some more gears, as I love gears and steampunk... 😁
been looking at the anycubic dental for a while. good to see it burnout well. at the proper temp.at the least its worth a try at the price. awesome job Geoff your a legend
dude, i can't imagine you ever losing your temper, you got a bob ross thing going on bro, merry new year and cheers!!! p.s thanks for the 3d printable sprue thing, also these settings ( layer height 0.2, bottom 3, exposure time 15 seconds, bottom ex 30 secs, bottom lift 5, lift dist 5, lift 75, retract 155) on chitubox work perfectly for me with the dental resin from anycubic. hope this helps. manual supports are worth doing yourself too, 100% success with manual support. love you man!!!
Another good honest review mate. The coins look pretty good to me, but the ring is superb! I like the smooth curves of the ring base that really matches the shape of the skull. Very nice indeed! It'll be a while before I can try to print and cast anything with the Anycubic casting resin. Hopefully by then, someone will have found a good all-round settings profile for this resin. Ultimately though, it comes down to the final casting result. Nice video mate. All the best to you and yours for 2020.
Hello, can you gently help with the right exposure time for the Anycubic castable resin? I use anycubic photon S in 0,030 mm thickness. Please, thank you so much.
Excellent video. Did you really only burn out the resin at 730 C for the top temperature? That's only 1350 in F and I thought Anycubic Dental casting resin says you should burn out at 930 C which is about 1700 F. (Which would require really good investment for that temp.). I'm about to try casting my Anycubic dental casting models and was curious if we really have to burn out at 930 C which is much higher than what most investment can stand. (I'm very experienced in casting with wax which only requires 1350 max burn out)
Hi Nikk, this video shows Lost PLA casting, which is basically the same process. There's also links to equipment, etc, in the description - ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html
Thank you for yet another review, do you have plans on trying out the bluecast castable resins series? It has the highest reputation on the jewelry market but seems to have a consistent percentage of people not getting the results they want I'd love to see your expertise and patience on it!
@@vogman I have gotten in touch with them concerning your RUclips channel via the user group, hopefully it will move things along and you might get some samples.
Wow, that's VERY kind of you. I don't like to list my email online as I already get too much spam as it is : ) Can you do me a favour and visit here - vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_me.php - and send me a brief message. After that I'll get in touch with you. Sorry for the cloak and dagger. 😆 But such kindness deserves reward. If Blucast get in touch, I'll cast YOU a little something as a thank you 👍
Happy New Year to you mate. I was starting to get VOG withdrawal symptoms! Glad to see you're all better mate and hope the in-laws and Brussel Sprouts didn't cause to much trouble for you! LOL!
The sprout danger is one we all have to face, but it's part of the festivities : ) I'm good thanks John. I hope all is well with you and yours my friend. My best to you for 2020.
@@vogman Thanks mate. all is well and had a good time let alone Santa didn't bring me the 3D printer and new crucibles I asked for. but all in all I now have a weeding to plan for in may! and all the best to you as well for 2020.
Always your casts look amazing compared to what I can do. I think you need to do a side by side comparison with resins, printers, and casting techniques. (Video series). Keep up the awesomeness Geoff.
heat the supports with a hair dryer this make them more flexible and easy to remove. you can use a small point of a cocktail stick with some uncured resin to fill and level out pockmarks then cure with a uv torch. lines in the print might be from incorrect support. if you was using chitubox to slice make sure you using the latest version. i had errors like that due to bad slicing. if you keep getting this problem with the photon-s you might need to update the firmware to the latest version and you might not need to post cure the resin. this might help with the burnout. hope this helps :)
Definitely got the latest software versions (I've checked) but I love the cocktail stick suggestion : ) I do pretty much the same thing with molten wax. The printing issues occurred on both printers which surprised me. The main problem, I think, is that I've been spoiled by Poweresins. That stuff is amazing and after using it everything else seems less impressive : )
Personally I love the Wax. Look at this video. ruclips.net/video/xNipIFMKta4/видео.html In the description there's a discount code to cheapen the expense. I assure you I get NOTHING from whatever you purchase. I was lucky enough to be given a bottle to review and it's spoiled me... I'm nearly at the end of my bottle and I know full well I'm going to have to buy a bottle or two because I've yet to try anything better : )
i think in cases like this its better just to go with a normal good quality resin that your used to, clean it up with post processing and make a master and then do wax duplicates for lost wax casting
Well, as the skull ring showed us, this resin can certainly pick up the detail - I´d have been jolly interested to see how the tiny gear came out, but I think we can assume the stuff would have done the business there too. As for your regrettable habit of picking up new vices as you progress through life - at least you´re honest with us about this character flaw.
@@vogman It´s your perfectionism again - it´s been the driving force which has fuelled your determination to get superb results for ages now. I fear, sir, that you´re an incurable "do it properly" merchant. Nothing to be done about it, I´m afraid...
I'm afraid it's true. I'm immensely forgiving in others, but when it come to myself, perfection is never really attainable as it's always just out of reach : )
I printed a few pieces about a week ago with Anycubic dental resin on a Mars printer but haven't cast them yet. I just checked them and dimensions of .812 inches, .843 inches, and .749 inches in the drawing were printed at .813, .847, and .744. I'm using the cast parts to make an operating steam locomotive, so dimensions can be fairly critical, but the tolerance of these is good enough form my purposes. I haven't printed and cast enough parts yet to see if those numbers can be improved upon or if a larger piece will have a proportionally larger error. The areas that I measured were all above the build plate, so the Z axis compression wouldn't have been an issue. The other source of shrinkage is the metal. As it cools it shrinks. Bronze is supposed to shrink about 2%. I didn't compensate for metal shrinkage on these parts and I won't know my actual shrinkage until I cast the parts.
Nice effort - sorry my gear didn't make it to the final attempt. I thought you had forgotten about me! I wonder, how does it compare (based on price) to the other resin if you factor in the added cost of electricity for the print and the extra burnout temps/time. Of course, you already accounted for your added time in prep and finishing but I'm sure that $69 price goes up when you consider other the other factors.
@@vogman just read your email - with the Christmas season about over, the rush is off to get this done. I may give this a try myself but I have a lot of catching up to do. Thanks anyway for your help. I may bug you for advice in the future. Just say'n.
It is possible and it is a worthwhile idea. It's something I've done a few times. But you'll likely need additional supports and that's where the problem lies : )
Sorry, no... but it's not the best resin in my opinion... Have you considered Siraya Tech Cast? Very good price and easily available on Amazon. ruclips.net/video/7MDl6ZeTrME/видео.html
I can tell you english isnt their primary language but they are super responsive in the Bluecast users facebook group. Ive had them respond to private messages pretty quicky
Dear, so if I understand well the burning out temperature must be above 950 C - 0,5 hour for gold and silver? I have Anycubic-3D printing UV Sensitive Resin Basic, so do you think I need something to change? I try 5 times and It looks like your first and second try. Thank you for your friendliness.
Hey vog! I've been watching your videos for quite some time now and i'm about to move forward and start metal casting some stuff. About this castable resin, is there any other castable resin that you recommend for the anycubic photon mono? Thanks
Hi Hugo. ANY castable resin should work as long as it uses the 405nm wavelength that most home printers do. Here's those that I've reviewed so far ruclips.net/p/PLOzaysTbaKi4bt4yl3WQI6rymVLknpEAG
Hi, just a quick question. I have one of these furnaces but have a wee problem, i used it once no problem but the second time around ( over a yr later) it doesnt seem to be heating properly....it is heating, but insanely slow....18 degrees c in 3 hours and counting...im wondering if the controller has reset to factory, but cant seem to find the correct settings for the furnace anywhere. Any help you can give would be amazing.
I do like your determination. And those results were quite good. But like you have mentioned it would not be my resin to go to - considering the price it is actually better to buy normal one do a print and make a mould from RTV or custom silicon and just inject wax. This way you could get few more copies. Since Grand gone (aka King of random) you are this first place to go to nowadays (your alterative - myfordboy sadly is just make me sleepy :) ). Keep up good work.
I’m doing an internship of some sort at a jewelery store and they recently got an anycubic photon and bought the basic resin. People recommend using the castable resin but is it possible to use the basic resin for casting?
The burnout schedule is long for a reason. It avoids "shocking" the plaster which can cause it to crack or even explode. I also burns away the resin (or wax) cleanly where a quick blast might not. I know there are fast burnout schedules around but personally I prefer slow and gradual. Plus I can run it overnight allowing me to get some sleep 😁
Hey what foundry are you using ? I think i recognize this model, a very affordable one, would you recommend it ? Is it durable ? Can it hold up high temps ? Thanks !
Hi Jean. Have a look for a link below this video : ) ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html&lc=UgzSKZtlrMzHHvtki654AaABAg It maxes at 1150C and seems to be doing okay so far.
@@vogman I've also noticed with "normal " and "eco" resin, if you soak the part in ipa for about 2-3 hours, the supports become very pliable, enough to be able to rip them right off and generally leaves cleaner results in my findings. Not sure how this would work for casting resins
Tricky... it's definitely available. Try searching online for jewellers suppliers or for Lost Wax Casting supplies. You can always ask at a friendly jewellers store. If they make their own, as many do, they might sell you a bag or tell you where you can get some : )
I tried this resin... its so crispy...need thick support to hold your model. Alot longer exposure time then basic resin. Any other casting resin recommend?
Hi Ivan. I like the Powercast Wax but it is expensive. Here's my review of it - along with a helpful discount code ruclips.net/video/xNipIFMKta4/видео.html
Did you mean 'polished' or 'printed' there? I did UV after printing, though someone has suggested below that it might be best not too. After sanding, etc, I never bother with more UV : )
That's a question that will have a thousand answers as folks tend to disagree. I'd tend to say follow the advice given and then perfect your own technique based on your own experiences.
Problem with castable resins is that unlike wax it expands because it goes direct from an solid to a gas the ticker the pieces the greater the problem while it expands it can damage the mould resin also reacts with water so your invesent should be dried very well before putting it in the kiln. Get a castable resin with an as high wax content as possible while still maintaining its green strenght
Nice work with the saw. If you are not careful you'll find yourself doing silver piercing work. ;-) Too bad about the castings, I'll guess you'll stick to the other product.
Thank you for this helpful review. I've got a question for you. I make pewter rings. First I print on 3d resin printer (anycubic photon S) and then I make a silicone mold where I pour the pewter. The question is ... Could I directly make a mold with this resin (anycubic cartable) and pour the molten pewter into the mold at 250 ° C? Thank you!!
I don't think so. It becomes a gas at a low temperature I think, less than 250C certainly, so there'd be nothing there for you. Powercast do a printable silicone which I'll be reviewing soon. I know that's good for wax... I'm not sure if it's good for pewter directly. I'll try to remember to test it : )
I would probably take a pass on that resin. It being brittle, needing higher exposure time and needing higher temperatures than others. You'll probably have to re-cast and re-cast again the prints wasting time, resin and money (in the long run).
You can burnish out holes and blemishes. 12 mm Square plate by 1.3 mm thick with rounded edges put in a mandrel 1/8 you can see examples Rio Grande. Com
Excellent results, as always! But please don't sell your stl-files =(. Much of the maker community is about sharing - give-and-take basis. Some of your work would not exist without the free stuff on thingiverse for example. Just a thought. =)
I know what you mean and don't be too hard on me... if you search for VegOilGuy on Thingiverse you'll see I've placed plenty of freebies there and will continue to do so. I agree 100% about sharing and caring... I have taken so I want to give back. But something this specialised is never going to set Thingiverse alight and a few coppers in my pocket help me keep my Channel alive : )
can you please post your print settings? I am trying to produce small pendants and my prints are coming out muddy with artifacting in places. the size 39x34x33mm so its very small and im trying to figure out the best settings for something that tiny. here is a snapshot of my settings in case u wanted to c. i.imgur.com/pBVka2d.png
@@vogman it's not important on gold, as it does not form oxide layer, but for aluminum it's important. Do not know about pewter, but I would imagine it oxidizes too.
I suspect makers Muse may be a little too busy to deal with a small channel like mine, but it honesty I'm not too troubled with my printing efforts. I used two different printers and did NOT get consistent problems. The faults I showed happened only occasionally. With that said I've no doubt someone with greater printing experience than me could fine tune things : )
The anycubic castable resin is the worst resin I've ever used. I've never got a clean casting. I've tried numerous times. I'm a professional jeweler and my main portion of my business is casting silver and gold. I've used multiple resins and I agree with your results. The price is good but print time and results are poor.
I managed to get fairly close (though probably not a professional finish like you're after) but the high burn out just wastes energy for me. Shame that. But there are plenty that swear by it, a friend of mine included 😊
I'm always game for a bit of casting fun but I know the other guys have had very busy lives recently. Hopefully the New Year will bring a few opportunities : )
Some channels just do the same thing over and over but you are always pushing the boundaries and trying new stuff! That's why I love your channel!
That's very kind : )
The truth is I have a VERY low boredom threshold. Doing the same thing more than once drives me mad. You can imagine how I struggled with this video ; )
Excellent review video. Your comments are the best. Your work is outstanding and you're definitely an artist. 👍👍👍
That's very kind Chuck : )
Another good vid, thank you. It seems that a lot of pros don’t post cure their prints before burnout, this might help with support removal. Cheers, Pete
That's a nice tip Peter. I can see that might help : )
Soft wax is good but you can also do repairs with the resin and a uv flashlight.Mine always leaves thin ash behind.
Bigstack will be drooling over that ring :) nice work
He's a talented guy who will make something even better : )
Good to see a video again. Hope you had a good Christmas. Nice work, loved the items.
Them coins are Beautiful! Nice job on the rings.
Thanks Mike : )
Good to have you back. Looks like you were hard at it. Difficult to choose, money or time, in some cases. It’d be cool to see some more gears, as I love gears and steampunk... 😁
Thanks John. I love steampunk too. I can't design anything steamy, no matter how hard I try. It's a real gift those goes have : )
VOG no kidding, it doesn’t just pop out. But honesty I think most of it is adapted from other designs...
I love the skull ring. Not quite as much as the Phantom rings though ;)
Good to see you again, Geoff! I just got an Elegoo Mars in the mail yesterday, and I can't wait to try some casting with the prints.
Thanks Austin - and you're going to love it mate : )
been looking at the anycubic dental for a while. good to see it burnout well. at the proper temp.at the least its worth a try at the price. awesome job Geoff your a legend
Many swear by it. I'm sure with patience and careful adjustment it will be a real winner for you : )
Hope you had a Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year Geoff!
Thanks Michael. My best to you and yours : )
Sir pls let me know about the best castable resin
dude, i can't imagine you ever losing your temper, you got a bob ross thing going on bro, merry new year and cheers!!! p.s thanks for the 3d printable sprue thing, also these settings ( layer height 0.2, bottom 3, exposure time 15 seconds, bottom ex 30 secs, bottom lift 5, lift dist 5, lift 75, retract 155) on chitubox work perfectly for me with the dental resin from anycubic. hope this helps. manual supports are worth doing yourself too, 100% success with manual support. love you man!!!
THANKS for the excellent feedback. Maybe I'm overcooking it : )
Hopefully you and your family had a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Yes, thanks Craig. Happy New Year to you and yours : )
Another good honest review mate. The coins look pretty good to me, but the ring is superb! I like the smooth curves of the ring base that really matches the shape of the skull. Very nice indeed!
It'll be a while before I can try to print and cast anything with the Anycubic casting resin. Hopefully by then, someone will have found a good all-round settings profile for this resin.
Ultimately though, it comes down to the final casting result.
Nice video mate. All the best to you and yours for 2020.
Many thanks Dan. All the best to you and yours in 2020 : )
Hello, can you gently help with the right exposure time for the Anycubic castable resin? I use anycubic photon S in 0,030 mm thickness. Please, thank you so much.
Excellent video. Did you really only burn out the resin at 730 C for the top temperature? That's only 1350 in F and I thought Anycubic Dental casting resin says you should burn out at 930 C which is about 1700 F. (Which would require really good investment for that temp.). I'm about to try casting my Anycubic dental casting models and was curious if we really have to burn out at 930 C which is much higher than what most investment can stand. (I'm very experienced in casting with wax which only requires 1350 max burn out)
wow, muchas gracias por este maravilloso y honesto vídeo
Gracias por ver 😁
Beautiful pieces! Great video!
Thanks Connor : )
You're not dead!
Not as far as I know : )
Till know what's the best resin for jewelry cast ,,,for u sir we will appreciate it 🙏.
Thank you for the review! I've been pondering moving over to resin printing for casting :)
You'd love it. It's incredibly versatile. Look out for my video tomorrow!
Hello, with 14Sec exposure Time, the prints are great
Support removal tip: Few seconds of boiling water over your supports will soften them so you can pull them away with ease for a nice clean break!
Thanks for the info!
so after all the reviews which castable resin do you like the best ? love the vids by the way and you have helped me huge. thanks
I may be on the point of changing my mind Chris, so now is not a good time to ask : )
What was the odor like with the anycubic resin while 3d printing?? (not burnout) Thanks
Can you show your exact burnout cycle for this casting?
This is so amazing! Do you have a walkthrough guide/tutorial on casting?
Hi Nikk, this video shows Lost PLA casting, which is basically the same process. There's also links to equipment, etc, in the description - ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html
Thank you for yet another review, do you have plans on trying out the bluecast castable resins series? It has the highest reputation on the jewelry market but seems to have a consistent percentage of people not getting the results they want I'd love to see your expertise and patience on it!
They won't answer my emails for some strange reason, but I'll keep trying : )
@@vogman I have gotten in touch with them concerning your RUclips channel via the user group, hopefully it will move things along and you might get some samples.
@@vogman hello again bluecast has asked me for your email address so they can get in touch, they are very interested. Good news :)
Wow, that's VERY kind of you. I don't like to list my email online as I already get too much spam as it is : )
Can you do me a favour and visit here - vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_me.php - and send me a brief message. After that I'll get in touch with you. Sorry for the cloak and dagger. 😆
But such kindness deserves reward. If Blucast get in touch, I'll cast YOU a little something as a thank you 👍
Happy New Year to you mate. I was starting to get VOG withdrawal symptoms! Glad to see you're all better mate and hope the in-laws and Brussel Sprouts didn't cause to much trouble for you! LOL!
The sprout danger is one we all have to face, but it's part of the festivities : )
I'm good thanks John. I hope all is well with you and yours my friend. My best to you for 2020.
@@vogman Thanks mate. all is well and had a good time let alone Santa didn't bring me the 3D printer and new crucibles I asked for. but all in all I now have a weeding to plan for in may! and all the best to you as well for 2020.
Always your casts look amazing compared to what I can do.
I think you need to do a side by side comparison with resins, printers, and casting techniques. (Video series).
Keep up the awesomeness Geoff.
It's just practice and technique Herb, and thanks : )
Look out for tomorrows video. I was amazed what this technique can do.
how do you remove the 3d prints from the plaster?
Is it compatible with wanhado d7
heat the supports with a hair dryer this make them more flexible and easy to remove. you can use a small point of a cocktail stick with some uncured resin to fill and level out pockmarks then cure with a uv torch. lines in the print might be from incorrect support. if you was using chitubox to slice make sure you using the latest version. i had errors like that due to bad slicing. if you keep getting this problem with the photon-s you might need to update the firmware to the latest version and you might not need to post cure the resin. this might help with the burnout. hope this helps :)
also the makers coin is a thing for youtubers that use 3d printers. it tends to have your logo on it in some form :)
Definitely got the latest software versions (I've checked) but I love the cocktail stick suggestion : )
I do pretty much the same thing with molten wax.
The printing issues occurred on both printers which surprised me.
The main problem, I think, is that I've been spoiled by Poweresins. That stuff is amazing and after using it everything else seems less impressive : )
@@vogman Which power resin do you suggest for the Elegoo?
Personally I love the Wax. Look at this video. ruclips.net/video/xNipIFMKta4/видео.html
In the description there's a discount code to cheapen the expense. I assure you I get NOTHING from whatever you purchase. I was lucky enough to be given a bottle to review and it's spoiled me... I'm nearly at the end of my bottle and I know full well I'm going to have to buy a bottle or two because I've yet to try anything better : )
i think in cases like this its better just to go with a normal good quality resin that your used to, clean it up with post processing and make a master and then do wax duplicates for lost wax casting
I'd encourage the use of wax where multiple castings are required. But I think for a limited run, resin wins on sheer convenience : )
Well, as the skull ring showed us, this resin can certainly pick up the detail - I´d have been jolly interested to see how the tiny gear came out, but I think we can assume the stuff would have done the business there too.
As for your regrettable habit of picking up new vices as you progress through life - at least you´re honest with us about this character flaw.
I hated all the little grooves if I'm honest : )
@@vogman It´s your perfectionism again - it´s been the driving force which has fuelled your determination to get superb results for ages now.
I fear, sir, that you´re an incurable "do it properly" merchant. Nothing to be done about it, I´m afraid...
I'm afraid it's true. I'm immensely forgiving in others, but when it come to myself, perfection is never really attainable as it's always just out of reach : )
@@vogman You get a great deal closer than most of us, though...
What about shrinkage? I would like to print with minimal shrinkage. Thanks for the video buddy.
Sorry Gordon, shrinkage is something I didn't look at : )
I printed a few pieces about a week ago with Anycubic dental resin on a Mars printer but haven't cast them yet. I just checked them and dimensions of .812 inches, .843 inches, and .749 inches in the drawing were printed at .813, .847, and .744. I'm using the cast parts to make an operating steam locomotive, so dimensions can be fairly critical, but the tolerance of these is good enough form my purposes. I haven't printed and cast enough parts yet to see if those numbers can be improved upon or if a larger piece will have a proportionally larger error. The areas that I measured were all above the build plate, so the Z axis compression wouldn't have been an issue. The other source of shrinkage is the metal. As it cools it shrinks. Bronze is supposed to shrink about 2%. I didn't compensate for metal shrinkage on these parts and I won't know my actual shrinkage until I cast the parts.
Nice effort - sorry my gear didn't make it to the final attempt. I thought you had forgotten about me! I wonder, how does it compare (based on price) to the other resin if you factor in the added cost of electricity for the print and the extra burnout temps/time. Of course, you already accounted for your added time in prep and finishing but I'm sure that $69 price goes up when you consider other the other factors.
I've just been hunting through my emails for you : )
Sorry, yes it's possible, but damn fiddly with my meaty fingers.
@@vogman just read your email - with the Christmas season about over, the rush is off to get this done. I may give this a try myself but I have a lot of catching up to do. Thanks anyway for your help. I may bug you for advice in the future. Just say'n.
Awesome work! How much actual energy is used for burnout cycle? (in KW)
I make a point NEVER to look. If I did, I'd probably never cast again : )
my guess is 6-8 kwh (melting the bronze inclusive). depends on the isolation of the furnace =).
Is it possible for you to use the supports as sprues that way you can remove them later as metal instead of before when it's so brittle?
It is possible and it is a worthwhile idea. It's something I've done a few times. But you'll likely need additional supports and that's where the problem lies : )
Very detailed video
what is the metal casting ?
Hi, do you have any idea where I can buy this Anycubic castable resin in the UK. Thanks
Sorry, no... but it's not the best resin in my opinion... Have you considered Siraya Tech Cast? Very good price and easily available on Amazon. ruclips.net/video/7MDl6ZeTrME/видео.html
How much are the printers worth
Have you taken a shot at BlueCasts new Cr3a resin? Alot of photon users like it over the expensive x10 bottles.
I hope to try Blucast soon. I confess they're NOT returning my emails...
I can tell you english isnt their primary language but they are super responsive in the Bluecast users facebook group. Ive had them respond to private messages pretty quicky
do you have a vacuum to help with the investing process? or do you just use gravity?
I use a vacuum system : )
Dear, so if I understand well the burning out temperature must be above 950 C - 0,5 hour for gold and silver? I have Anycubic-3D printing UV Sensitive Resin Basic, so do you think I need something to change? I try 5 times and It looks like your first and second try.
Thank you for your friendliness.
Unfortunately if you're teaching yourself, it will take many tries before you can perfect casting. Personally I'm still learning 😁
I think your molds would come out better with a vent tube connected to near the bottom of the tree
Hey vog! I've been watching your videos for quite some time now and i'm about to move forward and start metal casting some stuff. About this castable resin, is there any other castable resin that you recommend for the anycubic photon mono? Thanks
Hi Hugo. ANY castable resin should work as long as it uses the 405nm wavelength that most home printers do. Here's those that I've reviewed so far ruclips.net/p/PLOzaysTbaKi4bt4yl3WQI6rymVLknpEAG
@@vogman Oh ! i never realised that you had a playlist of Castable resins reviews! Thank you so much !
Hi, just a quick question. I have one of these furnaces but have a wee problem, i used it once no problem but the second time around ( over a yr later) it doesnt seem to be heating properly....it is heating, but insanely slow....18 degrees c in 3 hours and counting...im wondering if the controller has reset to factory, but cant seem to find the correct settings for the furnace anywhere. Any help you can give would be amazing.
Sorry Aaron I haven't a clue. Is it still under warranty?
I do like your determination. And those results were quite good. But like you have mentioned it would not be my resin to go to - considering the price it is actually better to buy normal one do a print and make a mould from RTV or custom silicon and just inject wax. This way you could get few more copies. Since Grand gone (aka King of random) you are this first place to go to nowadays (your alterative - myfordboy sadly is just make me sleepy :) ). Keep up good work.
I like the silicone mould approach but it's expensive for one-off pieces, which is mostly what I do. Resins win in that situation : )
How bad does the dental one smell when printing?
The problem with odour is that it effects some more than others. Personally I didn't find the odour an issue : )
have you tried heating the mold before pouring?
The flask is hot : )
What were your photon settings? the same?
I followed those given by Anycubic 😁
I’m doing an internship of some sort at a jewelery store and they recently got an anycubic photon and bought the basic resin. People recommend using the castable resin but is it possible to use the basic resin for casting?
You need to watch a video I did a couple of weeks ago that will answer your question perfectly 😁
ruclips.net/video/8p7I8IVmpSo/видео.html
Hi mate
I am from Australia and want to get into casting. Will you help for any doubts.
There's always plenty of support here for fellow enthusiasts 😁
VOG help me please , what if i go with 5 hours only for the burnout schedule , will i have problems ? Because i cant wait 12 to 14 hours .
The burnout schedule is long for a reason. It avoids "shocking" the plaster which can cause it to crack or even explode. I also burns away the resin (or wax) cleanly where a quick blast might not.
I know there are fast burnout schedules around but personally I prefer slow and gradual. Plus I can run it overnight allowing me to get some sleep 😁
@@vogman you are right about cracks for sure , i will not rush i will do it your way , the right way blesssss u .
Hey what foundry are you using ? I think i recognize this model, a very affordable one, would you recommend it ? Is it durable ? Can it hold up high temps ?
Thanks !
Hi Jean. Have a look for a link below this video : )
ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html&lc=UgzSKZtlrMzHHvtki654AaABAg
It maxes at 1150C and seems to be doing okay so far.
Mate, try cutting your supports off the print prior to curing. They won't be as brittle.
Good tip : )
@@vogman I've also noticed with "normal " and "eco" resin, if you soak the part in ipa for about 2-3 hours, the supports become very pliable, enough to be able to rip them right off and generally leaves cleaner results in my findings. Not sure how this would work for casting resins
Great video..... again!! :) very inspireing! Where can i buy this plaster? Greetings from Germany :)
Tricky... it's definitely available. Try searching online for jewellers suppliers or for Lost Wax Casting supplies. You can always ask at a friendly jewellers store. If they make their own, as many do, they might sell you a bag or tell you where you can get some : )
I tried this resin... its so crispy...need thick support to hold your model. Alot longer exposure time then basic resin.
Any other casting resin recommend?
Hi Ivan. I like the Powercast Wax but it is expensive. Here's my review of it - along with a helpful discount code ruclips.net/video/xNipIFMKta4/видео.html
@@vogman Ya, I saw it. Thks for sharing
After you polished the resin parts do you put them under uv light again or not?
Did you mean 'polished' or 'printed' there? I did UV after printing, though someone has suggested below that it might be best not too. After sanding, etc, I never bother with more UV : )
@@vogman After the print when you're cleaning the resin parts, and looking for imperfections and before the cast.
Ah... no. I brush away any dust etc but don't UV again : )
Is it Friday already?
I'm making up for lost time... but I do have plans for Friday... a Tolkien inspired ring!!!
Look at them beautiful things 🤩🤩💎🔥
Sorry about your ring. I think it was a thickness issue. I'll have another bash : )
@@vogman it's alright dude 😁😄 it's a good way of learning and pushing though, why I love crafting
awesome review. thank you for the valuable info
Many thanks : )
How do you understand what causes low-quality metal casting?
That's a question that will have a thousand answers as folks tend to disagree. I'd tend to say follow the advice given and then perfect your own technique based on your own experiences.
Great stuff.
Many thanks : )
What program did you used to make those ring
I tend to use a combination of Fusion 360 and Blender as both are free : )
@@vogman ok
I check other programs they are expensive 6-9k
Problem with castable resins is that unlike wax it expands because it goes direct from an solid to a gas the ticker the pieces the greater the problem while it expands it can damage the mould resin also reacts with water so your invesent should be dried very well before putting it in the kiln. Get a castable resin with an as high wax content as possible while still maintaining its green strenght
That might explain why the Powercast Wax I've been using works so very well. ruclips.net/video/xNipIFMKta4/видео.html
Throw some borax in the furnace. It will help get any debris to the top so you can pour into that first reservoir with the lip.
Nice work with the saw. If you are not careful you'll find yourself doing silver piercing work. ;-) Too bad about the castings, I'll guess you'll stick to the other product.
I'm going silver this Friday. That's as adventurous as I want to go : )
je suis prothésiste svp qulqu'un pourrait me donner comment relgler les paramètre de l'imprimante mono x6k
Oi! 3 attempts, hope you got some shut eye in between burn outs!
It did slow down the process which was annoying when recovering from man flu, but I got there in the end : )
Thanks
No problem
Thank you for this helpful review. I've got a question for you. I make pewter rings. First I print on 3d resin printer (anycubic photon S) and then I make a silicone mold where I pour the pewter. The question is ... Could I directly make a mold with this resin (anycubic cartable) and pour the molten pewter into the mold at 250 ° C? Thank you!!
I don't think so. It becomes a gas at a low temperature I think, less than 250C certainly, so there'd be nothing there for you. Powercast do a printable silicone which I'll be reviewing soon. I know that's good for wax... I'm not sure if it's good for pewter directly. I'll try to remember to test it : )
Awesome!!!
Really nice job buddy, was wondering what happened with you as ain't seen you post anything in age hope all well mate
Man flu. What a wimp I am : )
I would probably take a pass on that resin. It being brittle, needing higher exposure time and needing higher temperatures than others. You'll probably have to re-cast and re-cast again the prints wasting time, resin and money (in the long run).
That's my feeling, but I know folks that love it : )
Which resin would you recommend?
You can burnish out holes and blemishes. 12 mm Square plate by 1.3 mm thick with rounded edges put in a mandrel 1/8 you can see examples Rio Grande. Com
Interesting... I haven't tried burning the prints.
I did 25 second exposures to get Siraya Blu to cure and it fried my LCD.
That is the worry. They have a finite life anyway, but if we can stretch it out as long as possible, all the better : )
I know this is an old review, but compared to some of the new stuff, this is twice the price.
Excellent results, as always! But please don't sell your stl-files =(. Much of the maker community is about sharing - give-and-take basis. Some of your work would not exist without the free stuff on thingiverse for example. Just a thought. =)
I know what you mean and don't be too hard on me... if you search for VegOilGuy on Thingiverse you'll see I've placed plenty of freebies there and will continue to do so. I agree 100% about sharing and caring... I have taken so I want to give back. But something this specialised is never going to set Thingiverse alight and a few coppers in my pocket help me keep my Channel alive : )
@@vogman =)
can you please post your print settings? I am trying to produce small pendants and my prints are coming out muddy with artifacting in places. the size 39x34x33mm so its very small and im trying to figure out the best settings for something that tiny. here is a snapshot of my settings in case u wanted to c. i.imgur.com/pBVka2d.png
I have done. It's 0.58 in the video : )
Try to design your tree so shapes are filled bottom to the top. Metal surface should not fold on itself.
Nice tip. Thanks : )
@@vogman it's not important on gold, as it does not form oxide layer, but for aluminum it's important. Do not know about pewter, but I would imagine it oxidizes too.
The reason why this resin is a bit cheaper is because you will put more money into processing.
You can definitely get much better quality with your prints. Why don't you reach out to fellow youtuber: Makers muse to sort out your printer issues.
I suspect makers Muse may be a little too busy to deal with a small channel like mine, but it honesty I'm not too troubled with my printing efforts. I used two different printers and did NOT get consistent problems. The faults I showed happened only occasionally. With that said I've no doubt someone with greater printing experience than me could fine tune things : )
The anycubic castable resin is the worst resin I've ever used. I've never got a clean casting. I've tried numerous times. I'm a professional jeweler and my main portion of my business is casting silver and gold. I've used multiple resins and I agree with your results. The price is good but print time and results are poor.
I managed to get fairly close (though probably not a professional finish like you're after) but the high burn out just wastes energy for me. Shame that. But there are plenty that swear by it, a friend of mine included 😊
Hey Michael, what is the best affordable resin for casting jewelry?
950 degrees C is way too high!! Investment breaks down at over 750-780 degrees C .... mmmmhh....
I agree. It's a little power hungry for me...
centre vuge it
ɢʟᴀᴅ ʏᴏᴜʀ ʙᴀᴄᴋ !!!! ʜᴏᴘᴇ ʏᴏᴜ ʜᴀᴅ ᴀ ᴡᴏɴᴅᴇʀғᴜʟ ᴄʜʀɪsᴛᴍᴀs ᴀɴᴅ ᴛᴀᴋᴇ ᴄᴀʀᴇ ᴏɴ ɴᴇᴡ ʏᴇᴀʀs !!.. ᴀʟsᴏ ᴡʜᴇɴ ᴡɪʟʟ ʏᴏᴜ ᴅᴏ ᴀɴᴏᴛʜᴇʀ ᴄᴀsᴛɪɴɢ ᴄʜᴀʟʟᴇɴɢᴇ ᴡɪᴛʜ ʙɪɢ ᴅ ᴀɴᴅ ᴀᴅʀᴏᴄᴋ? ᴛʜᴀᴛ ᴡᴀs ᴀᴡᴇsᴏᴍᴇ! ... sᴛɪʟʟ ʟᴏᴠɪɴɢ ᴛʜɪs ᴄʜᴀɴɴᴇʟ!!! 😁😁
I'm always game for a bit of casting fun but I know the other guys have had very busy lives recently. Hopefully the New Year will bring a few opportunities : )