Hi Buddy. You say you love more PC because it don t need postcuring. Palese remember Cr3a is our entry level resin. BlueCast original, x5 and x10 don't need postcuring. Also....you test BlueCast with most hard patterns you can and casting come out great also if you use cheap hobbyist equipment. You test competitors with easiest patterns, casting have evident defect and you like more. There is something of strange
Thanks for commenting and thanks for the resin. I appreciate it. If you think you have a product that stands up better against Powercast, please feel free to send it to me. I would be happy to test and review it fairly for comparison. As for equipment, yes, like many of my subscribers I use homemade equipment and have used this on every resin I've sampled so far, including Powercast. When it comes to the prints, I vary to keep things interesting. If you think the prints I chose were too difficult for Bluecast resin to handle, I'm happy to try others. But it really wasn't all that complex and it handled it well. The prints were good and the casting was excellent. It's a shame the resin is so heavy that it needs thicker supports. And the curing solution adds more steps to the process. For these reasons I have to say I find Powercast easier to use than Bluecast - but Bluecast CR3A is still good. Thanks again for being kind enough to send your resin and let me know if you ever want anything else reviewing 👍
3D Garage Staff - I think Geoff's review was very well balanced, honest and fair. Your marketing claims that the CR3A is "... one of the easiest cast able resins... ". Geoff has shown that this is obviously not the case, if it requires more processing steps and expense than others. He also made the points (a few times) that the resin prints well and the castings were very good. There are growing numbers of hobbyist jewellers who are using "cheap hobbyist equipment" or even home made equipment. Geoff has demonstrated that he was still able to produce some great pieces using the resin and his "cheap hobbyist equipment". Perhaps you could treat the review as 'constructive criticism' and pass it onto BlueCast's management, so they can get a better understanding of the requirements of an emerging market.
IMPORTANT NOTE : I did struggle with washing the prints of uncured resin. However, keen eyed viewers have spotted that the instructions read "ethyl" alcohol where I used "iso" alcohol, so results could well have been different. Please do take that into account when watching this video 😊
"If we amend Bluecast's statement just slightly" *Deletes "easiest” from said statement* "I completely agree with it" Freaking savage. For real though, honest reviews are important. Keep up the good work.
That's very kind. I try to be honest. I don't criticise just to be heard, but I will point out problems if I see them. I've always been surprised how receptive companies are to honest feedback... I suppose it helps them improve their product. With that said, I made a LOT of positive comments about this resin : )
I was looking for relays the other day for my car and your older video popped up. Been working my though and fixing the EGR vacuum control side in a old TX1 taxi I have.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I was also having trouble with this kind of castable resins, because the printed pieces didn't stick to the platform. I used a self adhesive sheet (I'm from Mexico, so I don't know exactly how it is called in the US) in the platform, and then calibrated the Printer. All the pieces were printed ok.
Excellent review VOG, This is why i look forward to your review videos, they're honest and you're not afraid to tell it how it is. Not like alot of other channels that just happen like everything that gets sent to them. Lets see if these guys have the guts send the 5x and 10x, 'cause i certainly wouldn't be using this resin.
Thanks : ) I believe in being completely honest. I firmly believe by doing this, companies get genuine feedback and consumers know what to expect. BUT I have to respect Bluecast. They responded very quickly and have already sent me a bottle of X10 to review. I think this shows they listen!
Hi VOG I have my anycubic photon and I am experimenting printing with the resin they send it with. I am satisfied with the results, but my intention is to use for casting metals From your experience which is the best casting resin considering quality price Thanks
Really good review Geoff! Honest and fair. It's a pity that BlueCast's seller focused on the 'constructive criticisms' rather than the good points in the review. Nevermind... hopefully this will encourage other manufacturers, who have a good product and want it reviewed by someone with a reputation for integrity, to say "Send it to the VOG!" :)
Thanks Dan. I don't think anyone likes criticism deep down. It's good that they're passionate about their product. Hopefully they'll realise that my stance is that of a "user" not a seller...
Great video. I am curious about your base you used on the flask. I haven't seen any other bases with a pour basin. I have seen aluminum use a pour basin but never precious metals. Lol I just remembered, I don't think you mentioned what you were pouring
Hi Bill. That's a homemade pour basin set up which I designed to use with scrap metal. The set-up revolved around a silicone mould system which I still sell on my Etsy store etsy.me/3dEEuAe When you use scrap metal, it tends to be full of all kinds of impurities. This style of pouring basin actually helps filter out some of that dross. You'd need to view a few videos prior to this and see how it all came about. These days I use clean casting grain so I don't need to worry about impurities 😁
I really enjoy your videos and reviews. Not exactly sure where I should put this question but here goes: I know you have resin printers now and have done some lost PLA casting in the past, but have you ever tried a FDM type of filament that is specifically meant for casting? I wonder if any are better than just using PLA. I guess they are 3d printable wax? Would love to see some reviews on these types of filaments. Thanks
It's a very good question... and in honesty I do have some that I still haven't got around to testing. I was happily plodding my way through Lost PLA when I got a resin printer... and the difference is quality is soooooo different that FDM feels like I'm going backwards... but I really should test it :-)
Love your videos, look forward to each new one... Been studying casting for a while, and I have collected most of the supplies needed, including the oven, just need to roll up my sleeves and give er a go. QUESTION, which casting resin should I start with in your opinion. (I have a an EPAX X1 and Anycubic Photon original)? Also, where can I get the casting "base/pouring" silicone form that you use? Keep up the great work, thank you.
Many thanks Billy Bob. You're right to keep costs down when first having a go. Whilst the process genuinely IS simple, very few get it right first time - I'm still trying 😊 If your oven can cope with the heat, the Anycubic Castable Resin is pretty well priced, BUT you need to take it all the way to 950C. If you don't, the results aren't good. ruclips.net/video/JP6AeoVDVl4/видео.html I have got a couple of budget resins to review, but haven't had the opportunity to test them yet.
You mean the pouring basin? Have a look at this - www.etsy.com/uk/listing/729345066/casting-flask-silicone-base-mould?ref=shop_home_active_4&crt=1 You would need to buy mold making silicone similar to this amzn.to/2Sxg1Pt and have access to a FDM printer. If money isn't an issue, may personal choice of resin is Powercast Wax. There's a review here with a useful discount code in the description - ruclips.net/video/xNipIFMKta4/видео.html
Hate to be a bother but by any chance have you use Alphasense castable resin? And if not would you be able to do a review and maybe a tips and tricks tutorial. I’m new to 3D printing for jewelry and could use have been trying to do my own research to no avail.
Thanks for a great, honest review, but how does it (and the powercast Wax) respond to re-working with heat & wax? I was taught to re-work wax with heat rather than sanding, does this work with these resins?
Mike you have the advantage on me sir. I'm learning as I'm going and wax is something I couldn't get close to perfecting. So I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you. I will say I sand a lot, and with ever finer paper you can get them like glass. I also use castable waxes to fill in imperfections, which works very well. Hopefully that's some use to you : )
You can use ordinary glycerin for bluecast Cr3a. Interesting how you had problems with clean up, never experienced this is all my time using blue cast resins. I use the phrozen shuffle perfect adhesion every time with fewer supports easier to print than x10 but no real problem with that as well. Fantastic burn out no ash residue and no shrinkage but I follow there TDS to the letter and use an air assist Kiln really helps.
I think for me the wash set the mood. I couldn't get the darn things clean. I agree with you about the cast though... there's no faulting them there : )
Hi V.O.G :-) I have found that Flash surface cleaner actually cleans the Uncured Resin from the Prints much mor effectively than Alcohol.. Give it try, its very good.. I just sprayed at the piece while it was attached to the plate and all the Un-Resin just fell away.. Then I sprayed water to neutralise.. I repeated about 4 times and was amazed at the detail :-)
I purchased a Mars printer off the back of your review video, and purchased my second a week ago! I'm looking out for a larger lcd printer, would love to see you review some larger printers! All the best, Mart.
Two? You must love your printing : ) I think we're all looking forward to seeing bigger screens as standard and I think that day will arrive very soon. Until then, such machines are expensive and probably considered by suppliers to be commercial rather than domestic, so I can't imagine anyone sending me one for review. For instance, Formlabs have already very politely told me to sod off, probably for that exact reason 😁
@@vogmanI guess so! But I do use them for my bureau service, they are cheap machines but in the correct hands are very good tools. Yeah I know what the big companies can be like, always wanting to make the distinction between proffesional and hobby 'additive manufacturing'. Have you tried Photocentric? They have some good products, I have had some chats to them at TCT and they seem very open with information about the printers capabilities.
The datasheet says to use ethyl alcohol, and your video states you were using isopropyl alcohol. It's possible that the solubility of this product in isopropyl alcohol is much lower than it is in ethanol. Maybe try it with laboratory grade ethyl alochol for a re-visit? It may help with your washing problems.
Is that the matt wax pen your using? You should try the foredom wax carving pen, it works much better and you will save yourself some money on batteries.
Bit expensive for me I'm afraid. I could buy 12 or more pens for the same cost, so the batteries aren't much of a concern. BUT if I was doing a lot of wax work, I have to say, I'd be 100% with you : )
Hi VOG I see you have some experience with printing on different machines. I intend to buy an Anycubic Photon S or an Anycubic Zero mostly to use for jewelries printing of course with castable resin. I will very much appreciate any advice. Regards J P.
Hi JP. These home machines are all pretty good in honesty. You might want to get something with dual rails for extra stability, but everyone I've personally tried have been good for the purpose : )
Aight Vegoil guy. Im going off of using X5 Def keep priming your plate, but honestly a swab of normal resin off a popsicle stick works for me Also, idk about cr3a but X5 need preheating. I lay my bottle in my burnout oven and take it to 104F. Ive only had 1 failed print and it was 100% my fault (missed a decimal point lol) The separate curing solution is news to me. With x5 you rinse in IPA a few seconds, then force air dry. Have you tried the fast burnout schedule yet on cr3a?? I just saw someone on the fb group do it with x5 and cr3a in the same batch. I havent had the guts to try it yet lol. But not having to burn out for 12-14hrs? Sign me up! I wouldnt be down on your casting result. Looks fantastic. Remember, you are casting with aluminabronze, and your buddy is using precious metals. Did you tumble and polish yet? Ive yet to use cr3a. X5 has been a breeze.
I wish they'd sent me the X5. I seem to have upset them, which was never the plan. I can only speak as I find. And no, I haven't tried a fast burnout yet.
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but I assume the "sprue" is reusable? The little "tree" of metal where the cast flows into the mold to fill the space, that piece can be melted back down into an ingot can it not? Or it is not reusable?
There's no silly questions mate. Not asking and not learning is silly : ) With Castable Resins, the resin is designed to melt without a trace, so you leave them in plaster and heat everything up to around 700C. With good quality resins, there's no ash at all. Some resins leave a little ash and others aren't worth buying. You're also right about vapours as the resins become gas.
Have you tried giving the prints a hot water bath for 15-20 seconds after cleaning is done? I find that a hot water bath makes supports almost fall off - granted that is with standard resin and not casting resin but thought i'd put it out there.
Hmmm... interesting approach. I'll have to give it a try. Can I get in the bath with them and do I have to be alone? Because the answer to those questions might make this whole process MUCH more fun ; )
The problems with the the heavy resin are one of the reasons I went away from the Formlabs printers. Parts breaking, being hard to clean, and poor bed adhesion are all common on the Form 1/1+ and I would hate to go back to dealing with those issues after how much easier it is to get the Elegoo resins ready for sanding. Thanks for the reviews - when I get some metal melting gear I think I will try Powercast first.
I can't promise that something else won't come along in the future, so keep an eye out for more reviews, but yes, Powercast. My only grumble is price and maybe with popularity the price will drop : )
I wonder if you just expect to much from Bronzal, You got better result with silver. Perhaps it is the molten metal itself, silver being much more fluid. (I'm only speculating...)
You're right to a degree Peter. Firstly, it's important to note that I am NOT blaming Bluecast for my results. The resin did an excellent casting job... but I could have done better : ) My set up isn't perfect yet (I'm working on it) so that's part of the reason for the casts not being perfect. Then there's the metal... I'm using scrap here and many people think it's not as good a quality ingots (including silver). Hopefully in the next few months I'll have an answer : )
I heard you mention that you sell some of the coins you make on Etsy. Have you ever thought about making some antique reproduction French medals and stampings, there are a few sellers who do as they are very very popular.
This may have been explained in other videos but: I find it strange that priming with brush and UV curing the primed surface makes a difference to the adherence to the build plate. Why it makes a difference? In the printer the whole plate is submerged in the resin and you can flood it with UV light for as long as you like and repeat as necessary. Is the non-adherence so bad that you can't do that?
I have to admit Jim, it was a whim that worked for me, so I shared it. My GUESS is that it's all about surface area. A small area can peel away. But a large area sucks itself into place. I regularly remove a full plate of prints with absolute ease... they glide off and leave no traces. Yet during printing, they are held firm.
@@vogman I saw in your other video that you suggested that vacuum (really air pressure) is what makes this work and I think that is a very plausible explanation. I also saw that you soon tried a "printed primer" which was my first thought and that is of course golden if the first layer has enough 'attachment'. PS Great videos, thanks for making them.
It was fiddly, Joe. I guess I've been spoiled. I'm lucky because companies send me resins to test and this gives me access to stuff I'd be nervous about buying (and THAT is why I'm HONEST in my reviews - this has cost me nothing, but I don't want to waste other peoples hard earned cash). It's heavy, so thick supports are needed. That clutters the print and needs lots of sanding. Then the curing process is fiddly... It works, it really does, but there's less problematic resins available : )
It's all about the journey Joe : ) Think of it like taking a long hike is good quality boots that are three sizes too small. You'll get there, but it won't be fast and there will be swearing ; )
Zach, genuinely, I love the Wax. It's so easy to use. Prints great, you can use light supports, no post curing, washes easy, sands well, casts brilliantly. So far it's the easiest / best quality resin in my mind. The Burn is equally as good, but the transparent green makes prints harder to see. You've got it right and won't be disappointed : )
I think I'll take a pass on that resin. The casts did come out nice though I have a part that is printed from my FDM printer in Abs. But it's a bit too flimsy for my liking. Can you have it cast in aluminium (of course I'll cover the cost of postage and material and your time)?
I try to help if I can. Drop me a line here - vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_me.php This will let us swap emails privately and then we can discuss things properly : )
Hi Thanks for the video. I use a elegoo mars 3d printer and a fun to do castable blend resin. I can't burnout clear, the patterns are always messy and ruined, even if I attempted all the specs from print to burnout. Can you help me please? Thanks in advance.
There are so many factors, but the main ones are: 1) Use a good castable resin 2) Use PROPER investment plaster 3) Follow the burnout cycle precisely 4) Use good clean metal
@@vogman everything was followed properly. Can you tell me a good investment plaster? I already use ransom, the best one in the market also a bit expensive....Thanks
Have a look at this video. In the description are links to the various products. ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html&lc=Ugw94-ghO5iZ_9cxUTp4AaABAg
Go and get a printer. It's a fun hobby and can be very useful to produce replacement parts. I printed a distance/alignment for my father's 25year or car seat because it wasn't available any more. Battery covers for kids toys. Microwave knob. Customized Holder for dish-towel. Mounting plate for better wheels on toddler bed. Plate to strap my TV down so that it can't fall on the kids. Toddler proof Covers for power outlets. A mechanism to prevent my self made sliding door to be opened by kid. Replacement part for Nespresso machine. Knob for tank of an stream iron. Custom parts (UV resistant) to be mount on the roof (I water my roof with rain water during summer to keep the house cool)....
@@vogman sorry, i dont see the link but i but plasticast, you think i can cast with this investment the resin blucast cr3a, if you can help me i will apreciate.
Very nice review of that resin buddy! I appreciate your honesty! Seems you are correct about what you said, and I agree with your opinion as well. Now on to the castings! I like the lot of them, but the earrings and coins did come out better than that ring. I have a bit lower standards(comes from buying things from China), but I still have a very sharp eye. You will sort the details on that ring design, I estimate in 2-3 castings! :D Thanx for a great vid Geoff!
Be careful putting IPA in an ulatrasonic cleaner. You likely already know that but for those who don't, IPA (being an alcohol) is very flammable and can lead to an explosion/fire if you are not careful.
You're absolutely right to be safety conscious, especially will something as flammable as IPA. That's why I only use it for 5 to 10 minutes, strictly at low temperatures, and always supervised.
Now, I've been working with these resins for a while now. Have many and many tests with Bluecast and other resins. What I have learned is that these resins are not easy to cast because of the ash leftover after burnout. I think that the only way right now is just to cast with wax. I have done some research in how to carve wax in a very precise way but unfortunately there are not many affordable ways to do so. There are CNC machines like NSCNC and MIRAmills but those are really expensive. There is an affordable alternative like the Chinese 3040 CNC. The problem here is that the manufacturer claims that the machine has a resolution of 0.03 mm but I have not found any real results of that online. Maybe together with this community, we can find an affordable way to carve wax with high resolution.
Carving wax is not easy. Those with the skills to do so by hand are to be admired. Personally I've never used a CNC machine, so I'm not much help to you I'm afraid : )
Elegoo do not make a castable resin, but you could use : Bluecast - look here 3dgarage.shop/en/ Powercast - look here powerresins.com/ Anycubic - look here www.anycubic.com/collections/uv-resin/products/dental-castable-green-uv-resin-for-photon-series There are others but I have used these and know they work well : )
You are honest and not throwing dirt on them. You are saying they can improve. If they get angry, then they are in trouble. If they are saying "fuck" and coming with a better product, then they have rising and can better compete with the compiticing. (Spelling?) Bad reviews is good. Good reviews are ass licking. If they have a production engineer he will agree.
Much better alternatives surfacing every day. BC strongarms the elitist apple attitude very well. Hell, 9 out of 10 times you dont even need to use a castable if you are intending on mass producing or copying- just use normal resin, make a mold, wax inject and go.
I can't help it. You should pity my wife. I'm a perfectionist and now my son is too. She has to deal with it every day 😁😁😁. JUST ENJOY IT my friend. Put now pressure on yourself. Don't be like me. 😁👍
Hi Buddy. You say you love more PC because it don t need postcuring. Palese remember Cr3a is our entry level resin. BlueCast original, x5 and x10 don't need postcuring. Also....you test BlueCast with most hard patterns you can and casting come out great also if you use cheap hobbyist equipment. You test competitors with easiest patterns, casting have evident defect and you like more. There is something of strange
Thanks for commenting and thanks for the resin. I appreciate it.
If you think you have a product that stands up better against Powercast, please feel free to send it to me. I would be happy to test and review it fairly for comparison.
As for equipment, yes, like many of my subscribers I use homemade equipment and have used this on every resin I've sampled so far, including Powercast.
When it comes to the prints, I vary to keep things interesting. If you think the prints I chose were too difficult for Bluecast resin to handle, I'm happy to try others. But it really wasn't all that complex and it handled it well. The prints were good and the casting was excellent.
It's a shame the resin is so heavy that it needs thicker supports. And the curing solution adds more steps to the process. For these reasons I have to say I find Powercast easier to use than Bluecast - but Bluecast CR3A is still good.
Thanks again for being kind enough to send your resin and let me know if you ever want anything else reviewing 👍
nothings strange. its was a honest review.
@@vogman you say you like but its is not easy. ignore him. you can say what you think is right.
Thanks. I always try to be honest and fair : )
3D Garage Staff - I think Geoff's review was very well balanced, honest and fair. Your marketing claims that the CR3A is "... one of the easiest cast able resins... ". Geoff has shown that this is obviously not the case, if it requires more processing steps and expense than others.
He also made the points (a few times) that the resin prints well and the castings were very good. There are growing numbers of hobbyist jewellers who are using "cheap hobbyist equipment" or even home made equipment. Geoff has demonstrated that he was still able to produce some great pieces using the resin and his "cheap hobbyist equipment".
Perhaps you could treat the review as 'constructive criticism' and pass it onto BlueCast's management, so they can get a better understanding of the requirements of an emerging market.
IMPORTANT NOTE : I did struggle with washing the prints of uncured resin. However, keen eyed viewers have spotted that the instructions read "ethyl" alcohol where I used "iso" alcohol, so results could well have been different. Please do take that into account when watching this video 😊
"If we amend Bluecast's statement just slightly"
*Deletes "easiest” from said statement*
"I completely agree with it"
Freaking savage.
For real though, honest reviews are important. Keep up the good work.
It is a good resin, but "easiest" is NOT the word I would have inserted in that sentence 😊
I dont often comment but always watch your reviews. Your honesty stands out. Keep it up. Its so helpful to us all.
That's very kind. I try to be honest. I don't criticise just to be heard, but I will point out problems if I see them. I've always been surprised how receptive companies are to honest feedback... I suppose it helps them improve their product.
With that said, I made a LOT of positive comments about this resin : )
Just the kind of real review we need 👍 Thanks again for your hard work 😊
Thanks Peter. I prefer to speak honestly... it's a resin that works, but it's no the easiest to use : )
Thank you very much for the review.
It really helps us make the best informed choices
Many thanks : )
Honesty is the best policy! great video as always. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks John : )
I was looking for relays the other day for my car and your older video popped up. Been working my though and fixing the EGR vacuum control side in a old TX1 taxi I have.
I hope it helped : )
I like those earrings! Although IMHO they would look better at about 2/3 the size.
That's the beauty of printing... scale is achievable : )
I suspect smaller earrings would look a bit dainty on VegOilGuy.
Appreciate your honesty and well rounded review! The castings we also really great
Many thanks : )
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I was also having trouble with this kind of castable resins, because the printed pieces didn't stick to the platform. I used a self adhesive sheet (I'm from Mexico, so I don't know exactly how it is called in the US) in the platform, and then calibrated the Printer. All the pieces were printed ok.
Honest reviews, that's what we're all looking for..... thanks
Thanks Steve : )
Excellent review VOG, This is why i look forward to your review videos, they're honest and you're not afraid to tell it how it is. Not like alot of other channels that just happen like everything that gets sent to them. Lets see if these guys have the guts send the 5x and 10x, 'cause i certainly wouldn't be using this resin.
Thanks : )
I believe in being completely honest. I firmly believe by doing this, companies get genuine feedback and consumers know what to expect.
BUT I have to respect Bluecast. They responded very quickly and have already sent me a bottle of X10 to review. I think this shows they listen!
@@vogman good on 'em. looking forward to the test :)
Hi VOG
I have my anycubic photon and I am experimenting printing with the resin they send it with. I am satisfied with the results, but my intention is to use for casting metals
From your experience which is the best casting resin considering quality price
Thanks
Really good review Geoff! Honest and fair. It's a pity that BlueCast's seller focused on the 'constructive criticisms' rather than the good points in the review. Nevermind... hopefully this will encourage other manufacturers, who have a good product and want it reviewed by someone with a reputation for integrity, to say "Send it to the VOG!" :)
Thanks Dan. I don't think anyone likes criticism deep down. It's good that they're passionate about their product. Hopefully they'll realise that my stance is that of a "user" not a seller...
Great video. I am curious about your base you used on the flask. I haven't seen any other bases with a pour basin. I have seen aluminum use a pour basin but never precious metals. Lol I just remembered, I don't think you mentioned what you were pouring
Hi Bill. That's a homemade pour basin set up which I designed to use with scrap metal. The set-up revolved around a silicone mould system which I still sell on my Etsy store etsy.me/3dEEuAe
When you use scrap metal, it tends to be full of all kinds of impurities. This style of pouring basin actually helps filter out some of that dross. You'd need to view a few videos prior to this and see how it all came about.
These days I use clean casting grain so I don't need to worry about impurities 😁
I really enjoy your videos and reviews. Not exactly sure where I should put this question but here goes: I know you have resin printers now and have done some lost PLA casting in the past, but have you ever tried a FDM type of filament that is specifically meant for casting? I wonder if any are better than just using PLA. I guess they are 3d printable wax? Would love to see some reviews on these types of filaments. Thanks
It's a very good question... and in honesty I do have some that I still haven't got around to testing. I was happily plodding my way through Lost PLA when I got a resin printer... and the difference is quality is soooooo different that FDM feels like I'm going backwards... but I really should test it :-)
Love your videos, look forward to each new one... Been studying casting for a while, and I have collected most of the supplies needed, including the oven, just need to roll up my sleeves and give er a go.
QUESTION, which casting resin should I start with in your opinion. (I have a an EPAX X1 and Anycubic Photon original)?
Also, where can I get the casting "base/pouring" silicone form that you use?
Keep up the great work, thank you.
Many thanks Billy Bob. You're right to keep costs down when first having a go. Whilst the process genuinely IS simple, very few get it right first time - I'm still trying 😊
If your oven can cope with the heat, the Anycubic Castable Resin is pretty well priced, BUT you need to take it all the way to 950C. If you don't, the results aren't good. ruclips.net/video/JP6AeoVDVl4/видео.html
I have got a couple of budget resins to review, but haven't had the opportunity to test them yet.
@@vogman Cost isn't an issue... Confidence is... How do I get the end piece that shapes the pour spout on your casing?
You mean the pouring basin? Have a look at this - www.etsy.com/uk/listing/729345066/casting-flask-silicone-base-mould?ref=shop_home_active_4&crt=1
You would need to buy mold making silicone similar to this amzn.to/2Sxg1Pt and have access to a FDM printer.
If money isn't an issue, may personal choice of resin is Powercast Wax. There's a review here with a useful discount code in the description - ruclips.net/video/xNipIFMKta4/видео.html
Great Review. Stick with what works right?
Spot on mate : )
Hate to be a bother but by any chance have you use Alphasense castable resin? And if not would you be able to do a review and maybe a tips and tricks tutorial. I’m new to 3D printing for jewelry and could use have been trying to do my own research to no avail.
Excellent video.Thanks
Nice channel!
have you tried senertek castable resin?
Thanks for a great, honest review, but how does it (and the powercast Wax) respond to re-working with heat & wax? I was taught to re-work wax with heat rather than sanding, does this work with these resins?
Mike you have the advantage on me sir. I'm learning as I'm going and wax is something I couldn't get close to perfecting. So I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you.
I will say I sand a lot, and with ever finer paper you can get them like glass. I also use castable waxes to fill in imperfections, which works very well.
Hopefully that's some use to you : )
Thank you for honest review!🏹
No problem 😊
did you pour metal on the resin or did you melt it out from the investment before that ?
thanks for the content.
You can use ordinary glycerin for bluecast Cr3a. Interesting how you had problems with clean up, never experienced this is all my time using blue cast resins. I use the phrozen shuffle perfect adhesion every time with fewer supports easier to print than x10 but no real problem with that as well. Fantastic burn out no ash residue and no shrinkage but I follow there TDS to the letter and use an air assist Kiln really helps.
I think for me the wash set the mood. I couldn't get the darn things clean. I agree with you about the cast though... there's no faulting them there : )
@@darranknight4311 Yes I use the Prestige optima as well and it works really well.
Hi V.O.G :-) I have found that Flash surface cleaner actually cleans the Uncured Resin from the Prints much mor effectively than Alcohol.. Give it try, its very good.. I just sprayed at the piece while it was attached to the plate and all the Un-Resin just fell away.. Then I sprayed water to neutralise.. I repeated about 4 times and was amazed at the detail :-)
Thanks for sharing this tip Mark 😊👍
@@vogman And thank you for your Kind Reply :-)
Great vid Geoff! Keep the reviews coming 🙂
I purchased a Mars printer off the back of your review video, and purchased my second a week ago! I'm looking out for a larger lcd printer, would love to see you review some larger printers! All the best, Mart.
Two? You must love your printing : )
I think we're all looking forward to seeing bigger screens as standard and I think that day will arrive very soon. Until then, such machines are expensive and probably considered by suppliers to be commercial rather than domestic, so I can't imagine anyone sending me one for review. For instance, Formlabs have already very politely told me to sod off, probably for that exact reason 😁
@@vogmanI guess so! But I do use them for my bureau service, they are cheap machines but in the correct hands are very good tools. Yeah I know what the big companies can be like, always wanting to make the distinction between proffesional and hobby 'additive manufacturing'. Have you tried Photocentric? They have some good products, I have had some chats to them at TCT and they seem very open with information about the printers capabilities.
I might drop them a line : )
Nice video as always save my evening
Many thanks. Did you get my email?
The datasheet says to use ethyl alcohol, and your video states you were using isopropyl alcohol. It's possible that the solubility of this product in isopropyl alcohol is much lower than it is in ethanol. Maybe try it with laboratory grade ethyl alochol for a re-visit? It may help with your washing problems.
Thanks for the input : )
Great video. Thanks for the review on the resin.
Thanks John : )
Those are some beautiful earrings you made, very intricate like the ring. They’ll look great on you! 😂
That wasn't me you saw in the nightclub! I deny it! I would never wear earrings! They clash with my lipstick.
Means entry level printers like elegoo are not much compatible with castable resins?? Specially with high details.. ??
Is that the matt wax pen your using? You should try the foredom wax carving pen, it works much better and you will save yourself some money on batteries.
Bit expensive for me I'm afraid. I could buy 12 or more pens for the same cost, so the batteries aren't much of a concern. BUT if I was doing a lot of wax work, I have to say, I'd be 100% with you : )
Hi VOG
I see you have some experience with printing on different machines. I intend to buy an Anycubic Photon S or an Anycubic Zero mostly to use for jewelries printing of course with castable resin. I will very much appreciate any advice.
Regards J P.
Hi JP. These home machines are all pretty good in honesty. You might want to get something with dual rails for extra stability, but everyone I've personally tried have been good for the purpose : )
I've always cut the supports before putting it before a curing lamp..
My week is now complete
Please don't tell me you work for Bluecast 😉
Ha ha I wouldn't admit to that now
Aight Vegoil guy. Im going off of using X5
Def keep priming your plate, but honestly a swab of normal resin off a popsicle stick works for me
Also, idk about cr3a but X5 need preheating. I lay my bottle in my burnout oven and take it to 104F.
Ive only had 1 failed print and it was 100% my fault (missed a decimal point lol)
The separate curing solution is news to me. With x5 you rinse in IPA a few seconds, then force air dry.
Have you tried the fast burnout schedule yet on cr3a?? I just saw someone on the fb group do it with x5 and cr3a in the same batch. I havent had the guts to try it yet lol. But not having to burn out for 12-14hrs? Sign me up!
I wouldnt be down on your casting result. Looks fantastic. Remember, you are casting with aluminabronze, and your buddy is using precious metals. Did you tumble and polish yet?
Ive yet to use cr3a. X5 has been a breeze.
I wish they'd sent me the X5. I seem to have upset them, which was never the plan. I can only speak as I find.
And no, I haven't tried a fast burnout yet.
Hey man. Your findings are your findings. If that upsets em. Meh. Oh well.
Could you sand cast small 3d prints instead of using the plaster method?
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but I assume the "sprue" is reusable? The little "tree" of metal where the cast flows into the mold to fill the space, that piece can be melted back down into an ingot can it not? Or it is not reusable?
Valid question Zeb and the answer is yes. Any unused metal is kept to one side and used again another day.
The plaster, however, cannot be reused.
You finally got some!
Yes : )
Hi VOG. How long does the test print take to print please?
Love the vids 😀
The Amerilabe town print? Obviously it depends on the printer, the resin and the settings, but typically around 2 hours : )
@@vogman Silly question -do you take out printed part before pour -or does it all vapors like with lost wax /foam method ?
There's no silly questions mate. Not asking and not learning is silly : )
With Castable Resins, the resin is designed to melt without a trace, so you leave them in plaster and heat everything up to around 700C. With good quality resins, there's no ash at all. Some resins leave a little ash and others aren't worth buying.
You're also right about vapours as the resins become gas.
Have you tried giving the prints a hot water bath for 15-20 seconds after cleaning is done? I find that a hot water bath makes supports almost fall off - granted that is with standard resin and not casting resin but thought i'd put it out there.
Hmmm... interesting approach. I'll have to give it a try.
Can I get in the bath with them and do I have to be alone? Because the answer to those questions might make this whole process MUCH more fun ; )
@@vogman I do not judge what a man and his 3d prints do behind closed doors
Love the honesty buddy
Thanks Gordon.
Terrific! thank you
The problems with the the heavy resin are one of the reasons I went away from the Formlabs printers. Parts breaking, being hard to clean, and poor bed adhesion are all common on the Form 1/1+ and I would hate to go back to dealing with those issues after how much easier it is to get the Elegoo resins ready for sanding. Thanks for the reviews - when I get some metal melting gear I think I will try Powercast first.
I can't promise that something else won't come along in the future, so keep an eye out for more reviews, but yes, Powercast. My only grumble is price and maybe with popularity the price will drop : )
@@vogman I will keep following as long a useful and interesting information is posted! Thanks for the help and information you have shared!
Useful and interesting.... damn, I'd better start then ; )
I wonder if you just expect to much from Bronzal, You got better result with silver. Perhaps it is the molten metal itself, silver being much more fluid. (I'm only speculating...)
You're right to a degree Peter. Firstly, it's important to note that I am NOT blaming Bluecast for my results. The resin did an excellent casting job... but I could have done better : )
My set up isn't perfect yet (I'm working on it) so that's part of the reason for the casts not being perfect. Then there's the metal... I'm using scrap here and many people think it's not as good a quality ingots (including silver).
Hopefully in the next few months I'll have an answer : )
I heard you mention that you sell some of the coins you make on Etsy. Have you ever thought about making some antique reproduction French medals and stampings, there are a few sellers who do as they are very very popular.
It's a nice suggestion. Thanks : )
Hi VOG
I just want to know how long it took to print those objects
Best regards
Sorry, I've no idea. It's been too long. A few hours is typical : )
@@vogman thanks :)
Do you have a link to your prime coat print
Hi VOG, is there a supplyer in the UK for this resin?
Talk to Stuart here bluecastjewellery.com/ 😁
VOG , can you tell me the burnout full schedule time ? How many hours
Look to the graph in the video 😁
Do you think Bronzal can be a bit "sluggish" to fill detail say compared to pure silver?
Absolutely. My Bronzal is scrap metal. The silver I use is ingot quality : )
This may have been explained in other videos but: I find it strange that priming with brush and UV curing the primed surface makes a difference to the adherence to the build plate. Why it makes a difference? In the printer the whole plate is submerged in the resin and you can flood it with UV light for as long as you like and repeat as necessary. Is the non-adherence so bad that you can't do that?
I have to admit Jim, it was a whim that worked for me, so I shared it.
My GUESS is that it's all about surface area. A small area can peel away. But a large area sucks itself into place. I regularly remove a full plate of prints with absolute ease... they glide off and leave no traces. Yet during printing, they are held firm.
@@vogman I saw in your other video that you suggested that vacuum (really air pressure) is what makes this work and I think that is a very plausible explanation. I also saw that you soon tried a "printed primer" which was my first thought and that is of course golden if the first layer has enough 'attachment'. PS Great videos, thanks for making them.
what will be the settings for the photon mono se?
All I know about casting is what I see on this channel , but I am shocked you didnt like this the prints came out fantastically.
It was fiddly, Joe. I guess I've been spoiled. I'm lucky because companies send me resins to test and this gives me access to stuff I'd be nervous about buying (and THAT is why I'm HONEST in my reviews - this has cost me nothing, but I don't want to waste other peoples hard earned cash). It's heavy, so thick supports are needed. That clutters the print and needs lots of sanding. Then the curing process is fiddly...
It works, it really does, but there's less problematic resins available : )
@@vogman that's fair enough, I was looking at the finished product and not the journey it took to get there
It's all about the journey Joe : )
Think of it like taking a long hike is good quality boots that are three sizes too small. You'll get there, but it won't be fast and there will be swearing ; )
Zach, genuinely, I love the Wax. It's so easy to use. Prints great, you can use light supports, no post curing, washes easy, sands well, casts brilliantly. So far it's the easiest / best quality resin in my mind. The Burn is equally as good, but the transparent green makes prints harder to see. You've got it right and won't be disappointed : )
Great review!
Thanks Joe : )
Your background music reminds me of playing monopoly on PS3. Love it
I've played it via Xbox and have to admit I enjoy it much more than playing the traditional board game... but I still usually lose : )
Looks like it worked damn good
It did. Good resin. Just a bit fiddly for me personally : )
Good review.
Many thanks : )
have you tried the UV DLP Castable by Photocentric?
Hi Ricky. No, not yet : )
Really good turn out dude
many thanks : )
I think I'll take a pass on that resin. The casts did come out nice though
I have a part that is printed from my FDM printer in Abs. But it's a bit too flimsy for my liking. Can you have it cast in aluminium (of course I'll cover the cost of postage and material and your time)?
I try to help if I can. Drop me a line here - vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_me.php
This will let us swap emails privately and then we can discuss things properly : )
Hi Thanks for the video. I use a elegoo mars 3d printer and a fun to do castable blend resin. I can't burnout clear, the patterns are always messy and ruined, even if I attempted all the specs from print to burnout. Can you help me please? Thanks in advance.
There are so many factors, but the main ones are:
1) Use a good castable resin
2) Use PROPER investment plaster
3) Follow the burnout cycle precisely
4) Use good clean metal
@@vogman everything was followed properly. Can you tell me a good investment plaster? I already use ransom, the best one in the market also a bit expensive....Thanks
Look at my latest video... there's links to the products there : )
What investment powder did you use please?
Have a look at this video. In the description are links to the various products.
ruclips.net/video/qxj5eUkAFUI/видео.html&lc=Ugw94-ghO5iZ_9cxUTp4AaABAg
I don't have a printer, so I can't apply the knowledge, but your reviews are very well done. 👍
It's kind of you to watch... plus knowledge is always valuable : )
Go and get a printer. It's a fun hobby and can be very useful to produce replacement parts. I printed a distance/alignment for my father's 25year or car seat because it wasn't available any more. Battery covers for kids toys. Microwave knob. Customized Holder for dish-towel. Mounting plate for better wheels on toddler bed. Plate to strap my TV down so that it can't fall on the kids. Toddler proof Covers for power outlets. A mechanism to prevent my self made sliding door to be opened by kid. Replacement part for Nespresso machine. Knob for tank of an stream iron. Custom parts (UV resistant) to be mount on the roof (I water my roof with rain water during summer to keep the house cool)....
Wow. That's impressive : )
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanks
HI, WHAT KIND OF INVESTMENT DID YOU USED
Have a look in the description below the video. There's links there : )
@@vogman sorry, i dont see the link but i but plasticast, you think i can cast with this investment the resin blucast cr3a, if you can help me i will apreciate.
Very nice review of that resin buddy!
I appreciate your honesty!
Seems you are correct about what you said, and I agree with your opinion as well.
Now on to the castings!
I like the lot of them, but the earrings and coins did come out better than that ring.
I have a bit lower standards(comes from buying things from China), but I still have a very sharp eye.
You will sort the details on that ring design, I estimate in 2-3 castings! :D
Thanx for a great vid Geoff!
Ahhhh... you know me well. Failure irritates me and I just have to figure out why : )
gr8 review
Many thanks : )
Bluecast CR3A превосходная смола
You make me want to get a 3D printer but with forging atm I doubt I could afford it
No worries buddy. I'd love to have a go at forging but have the same problem : )
Be careful putting IPA in an ulatrasonic cleaner. You likely already know that but for those who don't, IPA (being an alcohol) is very flammable and can lead to an explosion/fire if you are not careful.
You're absolutely right to be safety conscious, especially will something as flammable as IPA. That's why I only use it for 5 to 10 minutes, strictly at low temperatures, and always supervised.
i can use with wnahao??
Nice
Thanks : )
Now, I've been working with these resins for a while now. Have many and many tests with Bluecast and other resins. What I have learned is that these resins are not easy to cast because of the ash leftover after burnout. I think that the only way right now is just to cast with wax. I have done some research in how to carve wax in a very precise way but unfortunately there are not many affordable ways to do so. There are CNC machines like NSCNC and MIRAmills but those are really expensive. There is an affordable alternative like the Chinese 3040 CNC. The problem here is that the manufacturer claims that the machine has a resolution of 0.03 mm but I have not found any real results of that online.
Maybe together with this community, we can find an affordable way to carve wax with high resolution.
Carving wax is not easy. Those with the skills to do so by hand are to be admired.
Personally I've never used a CNC machine, so I'm not much help to you I'm afraid : )
What's your favorite casteable resin for jewelry ?
How much do these 3D resin printers cost?
There's various printers out there. It's worth shopping around : )
Any to casting by elegoo MarS? Thanks sr
You can use most castable resins with the Elegoo Mars. I have one and love it : )
@@vogman and could you tell me where I bought the resin for the castable Elegoo
Elegoo do not make a castable resin, but you could use :
Bluecast - look here 3dgarage.shop/en/
Powercast - look here powerresins.com/
Anycubic - look here www.anycubic.com/collections/uv-resin/products/dental-castable-green-uv-resin-for-photon-series
There are others but I have used these and know they work well : )
@@vogman but which one does elegoo use, what resin is good for it?
Any of them : )
All of them work with the Elegoo Mars.
Haha. A pair of "gold" ear rings!
Well, gold-ish. Don't tell my wife 😁😁😁😁😁
sir whats the price per ltr
It would depend on where you buy it I guess. If you visit www.bluecast.it you can find worldwide suppliers 😁
You are honest and not throwing dirt on them. You are saying they can improve.
If they get angry, then they are in trouble. If they are saying "fuck" and coming with a better product, then they have rising and can better compete with the compiticing. (Spelling?)
Bad reviews is good.
Good reviews are ass licking.
If they have a production engineer he will agree.
Thanks Markus. I appreciate that : )
You didn't answer the biggest question. How did your wife like her ear rings?
Ahhh.... right.... for the wife.... didn't think of that ; )
Much better alternatives surfacing every day. BC strongarms the elitist apple attitude very well. Hell, 9 out of 10 times you dont even need to use a castable if you are intending on mass producing or copying- just use normal resin, make a mold, wax inject and go.
It's an exciting time I agree. Lots of good quality resins and that will encourage competition and hopefully reduce prices :-)
like 666 for the win
Chroma-crap hahahahahahaaaa 🤣
Chromacrap!!! 😂🤷♂️🤪
It just sort of came out... 😁
STOPPPPPPPPPP DOINGGGGGG ITTTTTTT ALWAYSSSSSSS SOOOOOOOOOO PREFECTTTTTTTTTT
MAKE ME WANNA DO IT TOO !! STOP IT!@!
I can't help it. You should pity my wife. I'm a perfectionist and now my son is too. She has to deal with it every day 😁😁😁.
JUST ENJOY IT my friend. Put now pressure on yourself. Don't be like me. 😁👍
@@vogman can u tell me what deviced u using where to buy and melting metrials
www.vegoilguy.co.uk/equipment
I buy Ancient Bronze casting grain from www.riogrande.com
@@vogman Not Found
The requested URL was not found on this server.
I thought they were fancy truck nuts.