Glad it was helpful. Vintage is a really interesting resin. However if you’re doing relief work with lettering as per the video Bluecast XOne would be the better option.
can you please add a model to your testing suite that include some engraving and/or embossed text? I think its a really tough test for all resins and definitely something that could give more insight. Thanks for all the castable resin videos youve done over the years..very helpful
We do ave the open source signet with the large gear, which I think was included here. But we can definitely look at adding something more specific. I think we mentioned in this video, Bluecast XOne is still the go to for embossed/debossed style signets etc just due to the lower melt temp. Any resin that changes to a liquid as it burns will always have the advantage with that style of jewellery.
Our large wheats and tunnels or cast and silicon bronze. As are the majority of our tests, as most the items get re-melted after the video has been up for a couple of weeks. The figure featured at the end of this video is cast in sterling silver.
I've really been enjoying your channel. Do you share the print settings you use for testing each resin somewhere in your ecosystem? I know the one printer is a closed system so it uses its own settings. Power Resins doesn't have settings for the Prusa SL1S on its website. We have one at work but wouldn't try a resin without at least a starting point...
I have an issue with this resin. For me, it just does not work the way you have shown that it does. I get just terrible casts. Flashing/finning, surface roughness, some holes at the top of the rings too (coincides with the bottom most part when pouring metal). As a control I also use rings printed from Easycast series200 resin, and it casts almost flawlessly in the same flask. Do you, or anyone here, have any insights as to why that might happen? Casting silicon bronze, using R&R Plasticast 38:100 ratio, vacuuming, burnout schedule is: Insert flask, raise to 150 °C over 20 minutes, hold for 2 hours, raise to 730 °C over 2 hours, hold for 3 hours, drop to 540 °C over 20 minutes, hold for at least 30 minutes and cast.
So surface roughness in one resin but not the other points to some sort of post processing error usually, or compatibility issues with burnout length. As we've done rapid burns with both resins Ill assume its not that. With resins like Vintage that don't require a post UV cure some form of agitation during washing is extremely important. As Resinworks requires post UV curing for there entire line up that would be my first thought. However there could be other issues that I can't tell without knowing more. - Shannon
Hey again, i'm having troubles getting vintage sticking to the build plate of my new Mars Elegoo 4. I have tried: - Releveling. - Curing the power resin primer on buildplate for longer. - Ensuring room temperature is between 25-30 degrees Celsius. - Increasing bottom exposure time and decreasing lift speed. - PTFE lubricant on the FEP before build. Are there any pointers you can add? I am new to 3d printing. Regards, thanks for your help with the rapid burn out specifics, Luke
@@ClearMindJewellery Hey, the plate is laser engraved. I was running the recommended 48Second initial layer exposure time. I did trial up to 60seconds. The main fix was using the Vogman's resin printed priming plate. This allows for consistent prints now. I do intend to trial/use Monocure3D's Burnout resin which will hopefully have better adhesion. Thanks for all the top tier content, it is greatly helpful and appreciated.
Can you please add your Phrozen Mini8K resin settings to the discription (Maybe always for all tested resins) that would be really helpful.... thanks a lot!
I've found Power Resins support to have pretty reliable settings so I'd start there then slowly adjust. support.powerresins.com/en_US/elegoo-3d-printers-settings/elegoo-mars-3 How your print is failing will be telling as to what the issue is. If thats exposure, light off delay, supports, can't really say without more information.
I'm having trouble with bubbles, I clean the prints nice, no bubbles but once I burn out and pour I get some bubbles in my stone holes, please any insight would be appreciated, using tru blu, is it the resin or am I missing something?
If you can clarify what you mean by bubbles that would be great as depending on the shape and texture of the issue that will mean different things; Most likely due to the location and material you mentioned its a resin/investment issue. Improper post processing of the prints leaving residue in the stone settings that interact with the investment later causing breakage. That would be my suggestion if your "bubbles" are heavily textured and a non specific shapes. However if they are soft edged roundish shaped, or indented tiny soft edge spots, that would mean something else.
Its a roundish shape, I'm getting them in my stone holes for a cuban bracelet, I haven't tried any other resin yet, first cast I ever did it came out close to flawless, I think I could be adding to much water to investment mix, there no where else but my stone holes, like something is getting trapped somehow, I clean the prints very well, my first time investment was kinda clumpy but product came out good, if it's not mixed good enough it don't get in clasp holes for opening and closing the snap clasp, then I have to try to drill out holes but haven't had much luck, drill bits snap being so small then I have to take bit out and melt it back down, just costing a lot making mistakes, one of my biggest hills other then learning rhino
cheaper than its competitors. bluecast x10 and power resins dark are $300. $300 is still too much for me but im going to try this as siraya tech isn't really cutting it for me anymore (hard to print and long post print process, it burns out well its just a pain to print).
Meh, I'm moving away from formlabs. For me it's a choice from them between £260/$338 plus vat or £210/$273 plus vat. That's with a printer that cost me £2.8k at the time. Oh and their platforms and tanks start at £78+
I'm using this vintage resin for more than 6 months I have already done so many experiments.. Like I don't recommend stone setting if your stone can't handle extreme heat 1K degree Celsius and not for those who have a limited burnout cycle it creates a lot of clouds and imperfections because mostly burnout cycles common wax people not goes more to 4hours but it takes at least 6-8 hours. It is good resin lesser odor and strong and strength full of build items... But be careful with washing.
If you don't wash and cure your prints properly the resin can potentially react with the water in the investment and lead to infill. We have a video on our wash setup as well as our burnout.
Thank you so much for your informative reviews!! Will be switching to vintage from x-one next time 😊
Glad it was helpful. Vintage is a really interesting resin. However if you’re doing relief work with lettering as per the video Bluecast XOne would be the better option.
How is the shrinkage?
can you please add a model to your testing suite that include some engraving and/or embossed text? I think its a really tough test for all resins and definitely something that could give more insight. Thanks for all the castable resin videos youve done over the years..very helpful
We do ave the open source signet with the large gear, which I think was included here. But we can definitely look at adding something more specific.
I think we mentioned in this video, Bluecast XOne is still the go to for embossed/debossed style signets etc just due to the lower melt temp. Any resin that changes to a liquid as it burns will always have the advantage with that style of jewellery.
@@ClearMindJewellery id be happy to send over a ring design I have that fails often :)
what metal you casting brass? silver? gold?- the big pices?
Our large wheats and tunnels or cast and silicon bronze. As are the majority of our tests, as most the items get re-melted after the video has been up for a couple of weeks. The figure featured at the end of this video is cast in sterling silver.
I've really been enjoying your channel. Do you share the print settings you use for testing each resin somewhere in your ecosystem? I know the one printer is a closed system so it uses its own settings. Power Resins doesn't have settings for the Prusa SL1S on its website. We have one at work but wouldn't try a resin without at least a starting point...
01:34
hey what is that sprue cutting tool you are using? that thing is badass
It’s an air powered cutter. We will be doing a full video on it soon.
I have an issue with this resin. For me, it just does not work the way you have shown that it does. I get just terrible casts. Flashing/finning, surface roughness, some holes at the top of the rings too (coincides with the bottom most part when pouring metal). As a control I also use rings printed from Easycast series200 resin, and it casts almost flawlessly in the same flask. Do you, or anyone here, have any insights as to why that might happen?
Casting silicon bronze, using R&R Plasticast 38:100 ratio, vacuuming, burnout schedule is: Insert flask, raise to 150 °C over 20 minutes, hold for 2 hours, raise to 730 °C over 2 hours, hold for 3 hours, drop to 540 °C over 20 minutes, hold for at least 30 minutes and cast.
So surface roughness in one resin but not the other points to some sort of post processing error usually, or compatibility issues with burnout length. As we've done rapid burns with both resins Ill assume its not that. With resins like Vintage that don't require a post UV cure some form of agitation during washing is extremely important. As Resinworks requires post UV curing for there entire line up that would be my first thought.
However there could be other issues that I can't tell without knowing more. - Shannon
Hey again, i'm having troubles getting vintage sticking to the build plate of my new Mars Elegoo 4.
I have tried:
- Releveling.
- Curing the power resin primer on buildplate for longer.
- Ensuring room temperature is between 25-30 degrees Celsius.
- Increasing bottom exposure time and decreasing lift speed.
- PTFE lubricant on the FEP before build.
Are there any pointers you can add? I am new to 3d printing.
Regards, thanks for your help with the rapid burn out specifics,
Luke
What is your initial layer exposure and have you tried sanding the build plate if it is not already laser engraved?
@@ClearMindJewellery
Hey, the plate is laser engraved. I was running the recommended 48Second initial layer exposure time. I did trial up to 60seconds.
The main fix was using the Vogman's resin printed priming plate. This allows for consistent prints now.
I do intend to trial/use Monocure3D's Burnout resin which will hopefully have better adhesion.
Thanks for all the top tier content, it is greatly helpful and appreciated.
Can you please add your Phrozen Mini8K resin settings to the discription (Maybe always for all tested resins) that would be really helpful.... thanks a lot!
support.powerresins.com/en_US/phrozen-3d-printers-settings/phrozen-sonic-mini-8ks
Me podrías envíar la configuración en lychee, para una Phrozen Mighty Revo 14K?
Hey man, I’m using this resin on a elegoo mars3, any advice on the settings? I can’t get a print to succeed, it’s been fail after fail’ PLEASE HELP !!
I've found Power Resins support to have pretty reliable settings so I'd start there then slowly adjust.
support.powerresins.com/en_US/elegoo-3d-printers-settings/elegoo-mars-3
How your print is failing will be telling as to what the issue is. If thats exposure, light off delay, supports, can't really say without more information.
I'm having trouble with bubbles, I clean the prints nice, no bubbles but once I burn out and pour I get some bubbles in my stone holes, please any insight would be appreciated, using tru blu, is it the resin or am I missing something?
Burnout is set to 1400°F is that too high? Should I do 1350°?
Bubbles?
Could be from not vacuuming the investment or maybe trapped gas, have you had successful casting with different resin?
If you can clarify what you mean by bubbles that would be great as depending on the shape and texture of the issue that will mean different things;
Most likely due to the location and material you mentioned its a resin/investment issue. Improper post processing of the prints leaving residue in the stone settings that interact with the investment later causing breakage. That would be my suggestion if your "bubbles" are heavily textured and a non specific shapes. However if they are soft edged roundish shaped, or indented tiny soft edge spots, that would mean something else.
Its a roundish shape, I'm getting them in my stone holes for a cuban bracelet, I haven't tried any other resin yet, first cast I ever did it came out close to flawless, I think I could be adding to much water to investment mix, there no where else but my stone holes, like something is getting trapped somehow, I clean the prints very well, my first time investment was kinda clumpy but product came out good, if it's not mixed good enough it don't get in clasp holes for opening and closing the snap clasp, then I have to try to drill out holes but haven't had much luck, drill bits snap being so small then I have to take bit out and melt it back down, just costing a lot making mistakes, one of my biggest hills other then learning rhino
Turns out it's really hard to get power resin in the uk😢
you can get them shipped from Turkey, but shipping is 30 usd and you need to pay vat on delivery. Works out pricey 😞
the engraved signet ring doesn't look too good
160$ for 500g 😥😥😥😥
😉 Try gold @ $2300 US for 31.1 gm.
cheaper than its competitors. bluecast x10 and power resins dark are $300. $300 is still too much for me but im going to try this as siraya tech isn't really cutting it for me anymore (hard to print and long post print process, it burns out well its just a pain to print).
Meh, I'm moving away from formlabs. For me it's a choice from them between £260/$338 plus vat or £210/$273 plus vat. That's with a printer that cost me £2.8k at the time. Oh and their platforms and tanks start at £78+
@@jamescelliers3195 power resin dark is the same price, 300 for 1kg and 160 for 500g
I'm using this vintage resin for more than 6 months I have already done so many experiments.. Like I don't recommend stone setting if your stone can't handle extreme heat 1K degree Celsius and not for those who have a limited burnout cycle it creates a lot of clouds and imperfections because mostly burnout cycles common wax people not goes more to 4hours but it takes at least 6-8 hours. It is good resin lesser odor and strong and strength full of build items... But be careful with washing.
is washing that important for cleaner casts? can you please share your burnout cycle and washing methods?
If you don't wash and cure your prints properly the resin can potentially react with the water in the investment and lead to infill. We have a video on our wash setup as well as our burnout.