Nice Review! Turns out Charlie from Monocure3D is in the same city as I am, so he came over today to do his first sand casting (Tensile). I've also done my first investment cast with Burnaway but I need to practice some more! Rapid Burnouts makes this much more accessible for us hobbyists. Thanks for the video.
Great and informative review! I recently purchased a lot of the equipment and materials to do vacuum/investment casting (brass and nickel silver for model trains and other model purposes). On the recommendation of another RUclipsr, I purchased Siraya Tech castable resin (the purple stuff). Haven't used it yet, but reading the specs and use directions, burnout time is prohibitively long. Due to lack of a ventilation system, I have to melt the metal, burnout the investment and do casting in the garage. Have a difficult time rationalizing running the burnout oven and casting furnace (which use a lot of power) for such a long period of time. While this material is expensive compared to the Siraya Tech castable resin, I like that it burns out a lot quicker. Of course the downside is that it's over twice the price, but I guess that you can't have everything. I also like that you don't have to cure it in glycerin or other fluid. While glycerin cure isn't terribly difficult, it's just another potential mess to have to deal with. One question... It's required to shake the resin for 5 minutes prior to pouring into the tray and starting the printing process. From this info, I assume that you have to pour the resin out of the tray, back into the container in between printing runs (especially if you're only printing intermittently, rather than sequentially), so that you can re-shake the resin for sufficient mixing. Is that correct?
The one thing that will be prohibitive for you is the size of model that you’re casting. For people that are casting miniatures there are actually select resins that you can use well printing a solid model. You might have to consider doing some holliw printing. Great resins that are candidates for larger items with a 6-8hr burnout includes Bluecast XOne , apply lab works cyan, power resins vintage, siraya tech true blue. Per the video and guide we made monocure3d BURNAWAY does need to have the full 12hr burnout when casting non jewellery sized models. Many castable resins you need to remove from the resin vat and pour back in the bottle if left for more than a few days before doing your next print. This is due to the specific type of fillers that you find in castable resins. Asiga, Bluecast, and Monocure can all have visible separation after a few days. So definitely mix your resin well to avoid printing errors.
@@ClearMindJewelleryif you don’t mind explaining your burnout schedule for power resins? ( I’m using their dark resin btw) I’ve been sticking to their suggested burnout and it’s a painful 12 hours
I there! I love your channel, thank you for the great information that you put out there for all of us to see (this in not my experience within the jewellery trade). Where would you rank this on you Castable Resin List?
were those final cast models from the tree you sprued in the video? it seems like you sprued one tree then in the end you showed some finished cast models (out of bronze?) which seem to be cut off a different tree. Also when you pulled the one tree out of the investment, it looked like the tree you originally sprued, poured with silver..but we never got to see the finished models. This is an expensive bottle of resin (I normally use apply CYAN or siraya blue castable) ..hoping it performs as advertised.
We print and cast with resins several times, especially in cases like this one with monocure when we had the resin prior to release. There will be many different clips. With the siraya tech true blue we even showed some clips of when it was still a colourless formula.
Shrinkage in our experience is minimal. It will depend on your model size, exposure settings, and metal type. For rings with half size measurements I would recommend doing a test and then making adjustments but for other model types I wouldn't be overly concerned.
Hey, I have been using this product and have had issues with casting. I believe my issues are related to resin migration into the investment. I have had successful casting with other resins such as Power resin and Siraya Tech. Should I try cleaning in IPA for longer? I do notice the bottom of the sprue does seem to sweat when I take off the flasks rubber bottom after letting investment harden in the flask.
So Burnaby needs quick rinses. It can absorb the alcohol and cause the prints to become brittle. So if you are noticing asphalt like texture then give another quick wash. We like drying this resin with an air gun (compressed air from a can, hand held dryer etc. But no heat) as this can help push away the alcohol and left over resin residue from the little details. If your items are larger than a 1" mini figure we recommend the 12hr burnout.
@@ClearMindJewellery How long do you post cure for? I think that might of been my issue. And i'm using Goldstar Resin cast, have you used that investment before?
Burnaway is such a fast cure it's not recommended to do a post UV cure. It's only advised for like 5 minutes if the prints are tacky after such a fast cleaning.
Each of those resins are fantastic. But very different. XOne's softness lowers FEP adhesion, lowers the ignition temperature, but means you need 0.4mm support heads or larger to print well. Power Resins Vintage has great dimensional accuracy and strength which means stone in place casting is great but bed adhesion can be a problem. Then Monocure3d BurnAway is literally lightning fast printing and casting but as noted in the video is you leave it for to long in alcohol its going to crack. Each one has its own ideal workflow. Just depends on what you want the resin to do and then what you are willing to deal with as a potential negative.
Hi The speed of printing for me is the name of the game and the only name of the game. I recently ordered this resin because I want to test it to the limit in terms of speed. Do you think that with an exposure of 1.5 sec I can get this resing to print at 60-65 mm an hour ? I'm planning to do this with a elegoo saturn 4 ultra with an nFEP . Tnx
hi there, i have the same printer and trying out this resin too... I wonder how you getting along with and what settings have worked for you? I am having loads of failed prints with ...
You can get a wax tray if you want to protect the bottom of your kiln. However if you are casting from 3D prints the likely hood the material makes its way out of the flask is low. It generally burns away to nothing in place.
Formlabs printers as far as I’m aware are closed ecosystem. They have a cartridge based system for their proprietary resins to be used in their printers. Some individuals have found work around but I’m not sure how advisable that is or how much effort it is to do.
Nice Review! Turns out Charlie from Monocure3D is in the same city as I am, so he came over today to do his first sand casting (Tensile). I've also done my first investment cast with Burnaway but I need to practice some more! Rapid Burnouts makes this much more accessible for us hobbyists. Thanks for the video.
Great and informative review! I recently purchased a lot of the equipment and materials to do vacuum/investment casting (brass and nickel silver for model trains and other model purposes). On the recommendation of another RUclipsr, I purchased Siraya Tech castable resin (the purple stuff). Haven't used it yet, but reading the specs and use directions, burnout time is prohibitively long. Due to lack of a ventilation system, I have to melt the metal, burnout the investment and do casting in the garage. Have a difficult time rationalizing running the burnout oven and casting furnace (which use a lot of power) for such a long period of time.
While this material is expensive compared to the Siraya Tech castable resin, I like that it burns out a lot quicker. Of course the downside is that it's over twice the price, but I guess that you can't have everything. I also like that you don't have to cure it in glycerin or other fluid. While glycerin cure isn't terribly difficult, it's just another potential mess to have to deal with.
One question... It's required to shake the resin for 5 minutes prior to pouring into the tray and starting the printing process. From this info, I assume that you have to pour the resin out of the tray, back into the container in between printing runs (especially if you're only printing intermittently, rather than sequentially), so that you can re-shake the resin for sufficient mixing.
Is that correct?
The one thing that will be prohibitive for you is the size of model that you’re casting. For people that are casting miniatures there are actually select resins that you can use well printing a solid model. You might have to consider doing some holliw printing.
Great resins that are candidates for larger items with a 6-8hr burnout includes Bluecast XOne , apply lab works cyan, power resins vintage, siraya tech true blue.
Per the video and guide we made monocure3d BURNAWAY does need to have the full 12hr burnout when casting non jewellery sized models.
Many castable resins you need to remove from the resin vat and pour back in the bottle if left for more than a few days before doing your next print. This is due to the specific type of fillers that you find in castable resins. Asiga, Bluecast, and Monocure can all have visible separation after a few days. So definitely mix your resin well to avoid printing errors.
@@ClearMindJewelleryif you don’t mind explaining your burnout schedule for power resins? ( I’m using their dark resin btw) I’ve been sticking to their suggested burnout and it’s a painful 12 hours
I there! I love your channel, thank you for the great information that you put out there for all of us to see (this in not my experience within the jewellery trade). Where would you rank this on you Castable Resin List?
The list has been updated to include this resin clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
okay so I switched to this resin, what settings do you recommend on the m5s pro? first one fell totally flat.
I have a formlab 3 printer do you have any experience with that printer. Can different resins You talk about be used with the form labs printers.
Thanks I figured as much
were those final cast models from the tree you sprued in the video? it seems like you sprued one tree then in the end you showed some finished cast models (out of bronze?) which seem to be cut off a different tree. Also when you pulled the one tree out of the investment, it looked like the tree you originally sprued, poured with silver..but we never got to see the finished models. This is an expensive bottle of resin (I normally use apply CYAN or siraya blue castable) ..hoping it performs as advertised.
We print and cast with resins several times, especially in cases like this one with monocure when we had the resin prior to release.
There will be many different clips.
With the siraya tech true blue we even showed some clips of when it was still a colourless formula.
What about thin filigree models , and extra tall bangles , does it print perfect, usually these things need rigid and not easy breakable resins ?
Hi any idea of the shrinkage of this resin for jewellery prints?
Shrinkage in our experience is minimal. It will depend on your model size, exposure settings, and metal type.
For rings with half size measurements I would recommend doing a test and then making adjustments but for other model types I wouldn't be overly concerned.
Hey, I have been using this product and have had issues with casting. I believe my issues are related to resin migration into the investment. I have had successful casting with other resins such as Power resin and Siraya Tech. Should I try cleaning in IPA for longer? I do notice the bottom of the sprue does seem to sweat when I take off the flasks rubber bottom after letting investment harden in the flask.
So Burnaby needs quick rinses. It can absorb the alcohol and cause the prints to become brittle. So if you are noticing asphalt like texture then give another quick wash. We like drying this resin with an air gun (compressed air from a can, hand held dryer etc. But no heat) as this can help push away the alcohol and left over resin residue from the little details.
If your items are larger than a 1" mini figure we recommend the 12hr burnout.
@@ClearMindJewellery How long do you post cure for? I think that might of been my issue. And i'm using Goldstar Resin cast, have you used that investment before?
Burnaway is such a fast cure it's not recommended to do a post UV cure. It's only advised for like 5 minutes if the prints are tacky after such a fast cleaning.
how is this compared to blue cast x one v2 and power resins vintage?
Each of those resins are fantastic. But very different. XOne's softness lowers FEP adhesion, lowers the ignition temperature, but means you need 0.4mm support heads or larger to print well. Power Resins Vintage has great dimensional accuracy and strength which means stone in place casting is great but bed adhesion can be a problem. Then Monocure3d BurnAway is literally lightning fast printing and casting but as noted in the video is you leave it for to long in alcohol its going to crack.
Each one has its own ideal workflow. Just depends on what you want the resin to do and then what you are willing to deal with as a potential negative.
Hi
The speed of printing for me is the name of the game and the only name of the game.
I recently ordered this resin because I want to test it to the limit in terms of speed.
Do you think that with an exposure of 1.5 sec I can get this resing to print at 60-65 mm an hour ?
I'm planning to do this with a elegoo saturn 4 ultra with an nFEP .
Tnx
hi there, i have the same printer and trying out this resin too... I wonder how you getting along with and what settings have worked for you? I am having loads of failed prints with ...
Hey, do you just let the wax drip out during burnout?
You can get a wax tray if you want to protect the bottom of your kiln. However if you are casting from 3D prints the likely hood the material makes its way out of the flask is low. It generally burns away to nothing in place.
@@ClearMindJewellery Ok thank you, so when you sprue with wax to hold the resin prints in place its ok to just let it drip out?
Yes it is itll burn quickly
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you, looking forward to purchasing a 1on1 session with you in a few weeks.
I believe the prices on the official monocure website are in AUD not USD, so your final price per gram may be significantly different!
They will have an Amazon USA listing. They just haven’t arrived on their USA warehouse yet. Should have been up today.
@@ClearMindJewellery Ah, it's up for the US one, you may want to put a referral link up for the US peeps.
Really hope they do the UK amazon too!
I have a formlab 3 printer do you have any experience with that printer. Can different resins You talk about be used with the form labs printers.
I have a formlab 3 printer do you have any experience with that printer. Can different resins You talk about be used with the form labs printers.
I have a formlab 3 printer do you have any experience with that printer. Can different resins You talk about be used with the form labs printers.
Formlabs printers as far as I’m aware are closed ecosystem.
They have a cartridge based system for their proprietary resins to be used in their printers.
Some individuals have found work around but I’m not sure how advisable that is or how much effort it is to do.