"As this is my experiment they can push off." I enjoy your practicality. Also, I'm a fan of the PLA or the cast-able resin, for their simplicity. Once I graduate and break into my engineering career I hope to do some fun casting in my workshop.
And you'll love it. The implications are endless. My mate Dick Morris in Alaska is an engineer. He uses these very techniques in his hobby building a scale model loco in bronze. In this week's video I cast a 40mm game miniature and in other videos I've done various jewellery. The only restriction is your imagination 😁😁😁
Bluecast is a lot more expensive than normal resins. It would be awesome if you’d try a few other cheaper resins with some other burnout cycles, to see if some of the other resins might be acceptable alternatives. Great video as always, I always learn so much from your videos. Keep up the great work!
Thanks VOG, thats pretty much the results I expected to see. I personally have switched to powercast opaque exclusively on my elegoo mars printers with excellent repeatable results. For the hobbyist I understand peoples concern with the cost but when you cast 120 items at a time quality resin pays for itself. It boils down to just pennies per item.
Hey timothy I hope you are doing well. Just wanted to know that is Mars Elegoo printer worth it for making casted jewellery. I will be very thankful if you can give your insights?
Now I really want to see you make a negative and do an investment cast of that. Like... make the whole mold for the injection-wax machine out of castable resin, then do the investment casting, then see if THAT makes a good wax-mold. (Actually, I'm investigating doing this for plastic injection molded miniatures)
I was looking at that, too. Since I don't have access to injection molding equipment it was low priority. I was thinking of a thin wall (1-2 mm) Zamack casting with a plaster or silicone back fill for insulation and support.
Wax can have a large thermal expansion coefficient. Often home appliances (laundry/dishwasher) will have the door lock be controlled by a hydraulic-like piston that is full of a wax and actuated (close the lock) by heating the wax. The machine sends an electric current to heating elements that melt the wax, which expands and advances the piston and latch. This may seem complicated, but this is a fantastic safety feature because it guarantees that the machines can be opened simply by unplugging them. It’s an elegant way to make sure that children and pets don’t get locked in them due to some malfunction that jams the lock closed.
I'm beginning my own PLA experiments just now. Years ago, I used lost wax with portland cement which worked... for a Radio controlled jet boat jet unit. Use the pure clear PLA and you won't get residue issues, it burns right out.
Castable resin appeared to have slight “crisper” details, which I am going to put down to being a “first generation” print, where the injected wax is a pattern from a mould from a pattern. I’m surprised how well the standard resin worked, given the price difference, I wonder if the clear printable resins might have less residue, and would be something I would like to explore. Thanks for sharing mate!
Unfortunately unless you have all the coins in your hand, it's hard to say. In this instance I believe wax won BUT I also believe I could have done a better job of printing. Had that been better, I think the outcome would have been different 😊👍
I guess this was his first and only pour with ordinary resin, maybe a difference in the burnout cycle could do the trick. I would love to see some videos about him experimenting with it.
Great video VOG as always. And I have a big question for you, say you cast something bigger, do you think that PLA or general resin will cause a hell of a crack on a plaster mould due to expansion? I mean larger the pattern bigger the pressure during dewaxing. Cannot wait for your answer
No, the size of the resin print or wax doesn't matter as long as you keep the edges of the model at least 12mm / half an inch away from the flask. If you go closer than that, the plaster can crack and the metal can spill out 😁
PLA is amazing stuff if you need to cast large parts. It's cheap, gets you a great surface even on a budget printer and melts at a low temperature. I've cast multiple 1+ Kg parts with lost PLA and this stuff has never let me down. Just make sure to not burn it out but to melt it out. Give it a couple hours at 220-240°C and you are fine. Also, you can get really precise if your printer is set up right and you know the shrinkage of your alloy. With aluminium, I was able to get within 0,05mm.
Do you you think if I had a resin figure that was casted out of a silicone mold, do you think I could use that as my object that will be casted, I ask because all of these were made with printer
You beat me to it James, thanks. Yes, you can let the investment cool and if you watch any of my pewter casting videos you'll see I did just that - and hated it. That meant manually breaking apart the plaster. I prefer to let the question do the work😊
@@vogman ah, my homemade recipe breaks apart dry pretty easily, and the last bit rinses off. Haven't tried to use it in a vacuum machine though, so it might not hold together under stress as well as the commercial stuff. On to more tests!
I very much like your videos about casting. I'm in the process of setting up my own lab. I have a question about burning out the wax. Do you collect it? (which seems to be hard in your oven) or do you let is vaparize? My first try with resinworks violet in my oven, it started to burn :-( so I figure that I should collect it after first stage @ 150 deg Celsius. Any thoughts about this?? Greetz Arend
VOG I sometimes mix 80 ml of casting resin and 20 ml of cheap resin to save on casting resin, I get great casts as long as it's not super detailed. Maybe your next experiment could be to see how far you can push that ratio? Keep up the great work!
I couldn’t wait to see this video and now I can tell you for sure it’s worth it!! In my opinion, and considering I’m watching the video on a smartphone and not on a 60 inches 4K TV, the BlueCast outcome seems the best to me (not telling because I’m italian too, I’m fair! 😉), surely comparable with the wax one. The other two “opponents” have got their pros and cons in the whole process, but they’re not at the same level when it come to the final result. BTW, no doubts: the most relevant part of the video is your singing 🎤 👨🏻🎤😂 Great 👍 😉 Ciao 👋🏻 Fulvio from Rome
You have plenty of reason to be proud of Bluecast. I've said many times that it burns away beautifully. I think in this instance wax won for looks, BUT I think I could have done a better job with the printing. But for burnout, there was no difference! Many thanks for your comments 😁😁😁👍👍👍
Was one support only needed for these coins? I have a resin printer and looking to do something similar but wasn't sure if supports are needed or not since it's such a small piece.
Get it and join the dark side lol. I use mine for miniatures but you can use it for all sorts of things. Just make sure to have a good ventilated area for some resins that stink.
Have you tried blowing the mold out with compressed air before casting? I have seen a couple of others do it this way and it seems to work better. Thanks for sharing :)
@@vogman The reason that technique scares me is that one is playing with a flask with investment that is at about 550 C and the displaced air coming would also be around 550 C. Another concern is that a blast of air would cool the mold and might require the mold be hotter at burnout or castings would fail because the mold was no longer hot enough.
Did you guess the PLA? 😄😆 To be fair, I think a lot of people would have guessed the same as you and I, but so many folks are claiming you can cast with ordinary resin, etc. Well the answer is, yes you can as long as you don't care what it looks like. If you want a decent finish, then you'll need wax or castable resin 😊
with the standard resin could ash deposits have been left and caused that? Would blowing it out have helped? Just curious as im looking at going down this rabbit hole myself lol.
Dont know if you are aware, butt here is a castable wax filiment for FDM printers. It is called moldlay, and is said to be pretty good. But good video regardless!
Never even occurred to me that you could do lost-resin casting with cheap, ordinary resin instead of expensive investment resin. Sure it doesn't look as good, but at 1/4 the cost or less, depending on the relative prices of ordinary vs. investment resin you use, it could still be a decent medium to practice casting with.
Hello VOG. I'm looking to buy a castable resin from POWER RESIN and I don't know which one to choose for casting. Should I make sure and buy the WAX Castable from POWER RESINS as it works with a standard burnout cycle? and What does it mean with "shrinkage" is about after printing or after casting? Thank you (:
Hi Rafael. Actually I have a bottle of Zero from Power resin to review. I haven't tried it yet. As you've seen in this video, it seems to me that each type of resin acts differently and may shrink differently. So something printed on the same printer with the same settings might be differently sized if printed with Resin A and Resin B. I think Zero is basically claiming it doesn't shrink when printed. They CANNOT make the claim that the metal won't shrink when casted, as they can't control physics. The thing I've noticed about Zero is that they are NOT making any claims about it being 100% ash free, where they do with Burn, Wax and Dark. That worries me... So, I've used Burn and Wax. They both work well. I personally prefer Wax but the choice is yours. In your position, I'd buy one of these and do a test print. Measure it. Adjust the size of the print if the shrinkage makes a difference (as it might with a ring or a gear). Personally I'm not so fussy. I increase all my prints by 1% and forget about it. It seems to work for me 😁
I’d assume that the differences in size for the resin parts have to do with cure times. They’re possibly undersized because you might be under exposing. Have you done all the XP finder tests by photonsters? Used the tests and turned out I was under exposing too and didn’t even know it.
@@vogman But its certainly 50% cheaper than conventional machining. Moreover for intricate profiles on sheet metal I need to make die even for prototype. I think it saves time too I don't need to wait for different manufacturer to finish their jobs before next is taken up.
How muck smoke there was when you were burning out resin, wax, castable resin out of furnace? Perhaps there was no extra dewaxing procedure, so it is interesting to know how much fumes generates such procedure
Then it was worth it John 😁 I think a few folks have missed my intention to amuse rather than thrill by singing... and what else could I have sung at that point? It just screamed to be heard 😊😊😊 As for the album, I'm entertaining several offers... though most of these offers can't be repeated in polite company 😆
@@vogman Oh yes it did I'm glad you put it in and those that missed the intention of you amusing us don't have a sense of humor. I always like it when you bring humor into your video's and when I start reording mine for my new channel I hope to do the sane thing! Keep up the good work and stay safe mate .
Hey VOG I've learned so much from you and started a business in jewelry but when I make 3d resin prints the castable wax doesn't stick to the spru tree. I've tried using sticky wax and still doesn't stick .any suggestions
Firstly, excellent - well done. Secondly, that's strange. Obviously it's all about the wax you use and it can often be fiddly, but it should work. The general idea is work quickly using a wax pen (similar to this amzn.to/2SupQ0Q ), melt a small patch of the pattern, then the end of the sprue, then bring them together and hold. I find retouching around the edges with the wax pen helps. In truth it's just a technique you have to practice. I still marvel at how well some guys do this. It takes me ages 😁😁😁
3:45 - Resin shrinks, wax shrinks, and don't forget that the silicone shrinks. Then of course the metal will shrink. Would be kind of fun to dial in all of those factors and figure out what percentage to scale up the original resin print in order to get a properly sized final result.
Hi Steffan. It's hard to say as it really depends on where you are in the world. In the UK I went here - www.castreekilns.co.uk/castable-refractory-56-c.asp - and have no complaints. It's an easy product to use but it still requires insulation :-)
My boss at a foundry blew up the inside by trying to burn out a resin pattern. I tried to tell him it would do exactly that; at 1600 degrees F a long chain polymer loses some of its hydrogen, enough to explode like tnt.
Thanks for a great video, as always. But please no more singing :p Maybe you could try wax filament in your next round. My local print shop got a filament called Moldlay, but it is pretty expensive so it would be nice to see a test before investing.
I understand Bjørn, you don't want me to sing again as you can have too much of a good thing 😆😆😆😆😆 I'll be completely honest... I have a few Castable PLAs here to review. But once I discovered resin printing, it was like going from b&w TV to colour. It's almost impossible to go back. It's not the burn out that bothers me, it's the print quality... they're too far apart for me 😊
non castable resin and poor castable resin for that matter have other issues besides the soot. usually a non castable resin expands during burnout sometimes causing plaster to crack. could explain the extra size
I love your videos. Thanks for your content. I wonder if the size difference in the two resin prints (0.06mm) has more to do with the repeatability of the resin printer than the resin? I would guess not given the Phrozen's minimum feature size of 0.035mm. You could find out by printing the same coin in the same resin several times (perhaps moving the coin of the build plate) and seeing if there is a variance in the print sizes.
I can't see it making any difference. After all the model is UV cured as it's printed. I suspect it's a nonsense claim. I've had so many people tell me ordinary resins can cast and I've proved here that they are RIGHT. The problem lies in the fact that those same people will look at all four coins in this example and consider them ALL good castings. You can't argue with that as it's the opinion of the individual. But for me there are only 2 successes here. So I won't argue one way or the other with such speculations. I'll just point them to this video let them make their own minds up. Some people will buy a lemon and say, "It's as good as an orange. It's still a citric fruit." My view is that they are right, but personally I WANT an orange :-)
@@vogman oh i do agree with you vog. the best ones was the wax and the the castable resin. and wax coming of the top. i would have done what you did and made a mould from a resin cast and injected it with wax. i must admit also i love to carve wax. i tend to do a lot of celtic stuff with it. also i can melt it down and reuse and repair easy :) but again a great video bud :)
It was really hard to see the detail of the Bluecast print. Some still images at a good exposure of each contender before would be good. I was comparing imperfections in the final products, and then went back to see if they came from the originals.
hello, love your vids man. They really helped me out a lote!!!! Little question, is it possible to release the stl file for the siliconeholder ? many thanks !!!
What a singer, it is a new hidded talent of mr VOG. (Is it really new, or even hidded)? 😌 Can a vogger be a good singer ? Any way you made my day, as usual 😉
John, I'll be completely honest... I have a few Castable PLAs here to review. But once I discovered resin printing, it was like going from b&w TV to colour. It's almost impossible to go back. It's not the burn out that bothers me, it's the print quality... they're too far apart for me 😊
Hello. I'm from Brazil. very good your channel. We would like a test ResinWorks Violet HD LCD and ResinWorks Brown HD DLP on the Phrozen Sonic 4k and Anycibic Photon X printer
Possibly the way it's supported. I can't remember your email Austin. If you have mine, drop me a line. If not, get in touch here - www.vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_general.php - I'll give you a supported coin file : )
Squirrel LOL 😆 🤣 Resin and PLA are fine for a sandcast in my opinion. Resin better. But as you already know I am moving to wax! I am still unsure why pure wax and melting silver would reduce the purity as no other metals are involved. UNLESS, there is something in the mold.
@@vogman VOG, I am AceBullion, or well you can see my channel as jonrms. I spoke to others about lost wax casting including a great artist that has made some lovely pieces. He puts .999fs in and they come back from the Edinburgh assay office as .925 ??? I would love to discuss this further with you as I am trying to buy all the correct starter kits for lost wax. As it would increase productivity and give a consistent pour
Don't worry my friend, I realised it was you. I'm still surprised by that. I don't think I'd look at the wax as the problem. Maybe the saws, files, etc.
Just wanted to say your videos have really gotten me interested in lost casting as a future project. I've only gotten into 3D printing this year, but it's already been a blast. I currently have two FDM 3D printers and have been contemplating a resin printer for doing miniatures. But seeing your videos on doing PLA, I see it is plausible to use the FDM printers depending on the projects I would want to do. A side question, and perhaps you already have a series on this that I just haven't run across yet as I am a new subscriber, what have you used to learn Blender and CAD based programs? I am at the point that I need to learn these for my designs, but I'm having a difficult time with the applications, so I'm searching for good tutorials to get comfortable with them for the purpose of 3D printing.
Hi David. Yes, I think both types of printers still have their uses and that's okay. You can't turn a screw with a hammer, and you can't drive home a nail with a screwdriver. Each has their own advantages disadvantages and uses 😊 As for the CAD stuff, I'm self-taught for the most part so I can't really offer any recommendations :-)
Are you suggesting I came close to matching any of the correct notes? I'd be thrilled to think I'd hit one... but the fact that there's no music, unique words and it's very much a parody designed to 'remind' people of a much better version is really all I was going for. Plus when you consider how many parody channels there are out there now...
Off? Off!? Is that some foreign word meaning bloody brilliant? Don't worry buddy, it's all done in silliness. If it brings the odd smile, then it was worth doing 😁😁😁👍👍👍
I'm always happy to take advice and help. Please email me here first - www.vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_general.php - and then I can reply properly. After that we can exchange emails with attachments, etc, as necessary 😊👍
Cool video, new viewer, liked and subbed. Could you help me? Could be a video on replacement parts. Cast a replacement gear for a cordless screw driver, I think I have a like for like gear that's not damaged, this one has split in half through the shaft hole.
I did a video on making gears a while ago - ruclips.net/video/0ow4x0jadJY/видео.html There's a couple of possibilities. You could print a new gear from casting resin or even PLA, or you could take the broken gear, glue it together and repair with filler, etc, and use this as a pattern in a silicone mold. 😊
@@vogman thanks, I'll check that video out I miss this little driver, it's only a single cell lithium but had a lot more guts that the newer model I bought to replace it.
I found myself laughing out loud a few times to this one. I'd guessed the wax would clinche it and it does appear the best. Don't give up the day job to be a singer by the way.
"As this is my experiment they can push off." I enjoy your practicality. Also, I'm a fan of the PLA or the cast-able resin, for their simplicity. Once I graduate and break into my engineering career I hope to do some fun casting in my workshop.
And you'll love it. The implications are endless. My mate Dick Morris in Alaska is an engineer. He uses these very techniques in his hobby building a scale model loco in bronze. In this week's video I cast a 40mm game miniature and in other videos I've done various jewellery. The only restriction is your imagination 😁😁😁
Hard to say via video on my phone, but castable resin looks like the winner from here 😁
It could be my printing let things down. The Bluecast performed perfectly.
I agree, the letters on the cast able wax coin are way more detailed
Bluecast is a lot more expensive than normal resins.
It would be awesome if you’d try a few other cheaper resins with some other burnout cycles, to see if some of the other resins might be acceptable alternatives.
Great video as always, I always learn so much from your videos. Keep up the great work!
Thank you! You the best reviewer of resins in the world 😁
Thanks VOG, thats pretty much the results I expected to see. I personally have switched to powercast opaque exclusively on my elegoo mars printers with excellent repeatable results. For the hobbyist I understand peoples concern with the cost but when you cast 120 items at a time quality resin pays for itself. It boils down to just pennies per item.
It's a hard point to get across, but you've done it well here. Yes a bottle is expensive, but if it produces reliable results, it becomes worthwhile.
Hey timothy I hope you are doing well.
Just wanted to know that is Mars Elegoo printer worth it for making casted jewellery.
I will be very thankful if you can give your insights?
Now I really want to see you make a negative and do an investment cast of that.
Like... make the whole mold for the injection-wax machine out of castable resin, then do the investment casting, then see if THAT makes a good wax-mold. (Actually, I'm investigating doing this for plastic injection molded miniatures)
I was looking at that, too. Since I don't have access to injection molding equipment it was low priority. I was thinking of a thin wall (1-2 mm) Zamack casting with a plaster or silicone back fill for insulation and support.
Great video!
Please, which castable resin could you recommending for my creality ld 002r? Gracias!!!
This was really useful to see the comparison, and your humor reminds me of a music teacher I had in high school.
10/10 make more videos :)
Wax can have a large thermal expansion coefficient.
Often home appliances (laundry/dishwasher) will have the door lock be controlled by a hydraulic-like piston that is full of a wax and actuated (close the lock) by heating the wax. The machine sends an electric current to heating elements that melt the wax, which expands and advances the piston and latch.
This may seem complicated, but this is a fantastic safety feature because it guarantees that the machines can be opened simply by unplugging them. It’s an elegant way to make sure that children and pets don’t get locked in them due to some malfunction that jams the lock closed.
When is the eye of the squirrel single coming out and can I pre-order?
Obviously I'm in negotiations with several big recording studious... it all pressure at the top end 😁😄👍👍👍
Who do you intend to torture?
I'm beginning my own PLA experiments just now. Years ago, I used lost wax with portland cement which worked... for a Radio controlled jet boat jet unit. Use the pure clear PLA and you won't get residue issues, it burns right out.
Result: proper material works best compared to unfit material. Genius conclusion ❤️
Most of the time the obvious answer is obvious for a reason : )
Castable resin appeared to have slight “crisper” details, which I am going to put down to being a “first generation” print, where the injected wax is a pattern from a mould from a pattern. I’m surprised how well the standard resin worked, given the price difference, I wonder if the clear printable resins might have less residue, and would be something I would like to explore. Thanks for sharing mate!
Unfortunately unless you have all the coins in your hand, it's hard to say. In this instance I believe wax won BUT I also believe I could have done a better job of printing. Had that been better, I think the outcome would have been different 😊👍
I guess this was his first and only pour with ordinary resin, maybe a difference in the burnout cycle could do the trick. I would love to see some videos about him experimenting with it.
The singing alone immediately made me subscribe lol !
Great video VOG as always. And I have a big question for you, say you cast something bigger, do you think that PLA or general resin will cause a hell of a crack on a plaster mould due to expansion? I mean larger the pattern bigger the pressure during dewaxing. Cannot wait for your answer
No, the size of the resin print or wax doesn't matter as long as you keep the edges of the model at least 12mm / half an inch away from the flask. If you go closer than that, the plaster can crack and the metal can spill out 😁
Thanks for video. Very interesting as always. Keep safe and stay well. That goes for the Sciurus vulgaris as well.
Thanks Colin... and it's a good job you mention 'him' otherwise he'd go nuts! 😁👍
Thanks for this. Need a brass branding iron for my woodworking and I will be using PLA.
Go for it!
Absolutely dying of laughter over here listening to your "announcer voice". :D
Just call me MC VOG 😁
Awesome i was wondering about how normal resin would go. Your channel is the reason i got my printer
Great to hear! I bet you love it 😁
@@vogman yeah made me try and learn about three different programs as well
Me three
PLA is amazing stuff if you need to cast large parts. It's cheap, gets you a great surface even on a budget printer and melts at a low temperature. I've cast multiple 1+ Kg parts with lost PLA and this stuff has never let me down. Just make sure to not burn it out but to melt it out. Give it a couple hours at 220-240°C and you are fine. Also, you can get really precise if your printer is set up right and you know the shrinkage of your alloy. With aluminium, I was able to get within 0,05mm.
Do you you think if I had a resin figure that was casted out of a silicone mold, do you think I could use that as my object that will be casted, I ask because all of these were made with printer
The investment sizzles when you drench it. Have you tried letting the investment cool to near room temperature before dunking it in water?
its designed to be drenched hot so the investment can break apart
You beat me to it James, thanks.
Yes, you can let the investment cool and if you watch any of my pewter casting videos you'll see I did just that - and hated it. That meant manually breaking apart the plaster. I prefer to let the question do the work😊
@@vogman ah, my homemade recipe breaks apart dry pretty easily, and the last bit rinses off. Haven't tried to use it in a vacuum machine though, so it might not hold together under stress as well as the commercial stuff. On to more tests!
I very much like your videos about casting. I'm in the process of setting up my own lab. I have a question about burning out the wax. Do you collect it? (which seems to be hard in your oven) or do you let is vaparize? My first try with resinworks violet in my oven, it started to burn :-( so I figure that I should collect it after first stage @ 150 deg Celsius. Any thoughts about this?? Greetz Arend
VOG
I sometimes mix 80 ml of casting resin and 20 ml of cheap resin to save on casting resin, I get great casts as long as it's not super detailed.
Maybe your next experiment could be to see how far you can push that ratio?
Keep up the great work!
That's an interesting approach that I hadn't heard of before. Nice one.
I couldn’t wait to see this video and now I can tell you for sure it’s worth it!!
In my opinion, and considering I’m watching the video on a smartphone and not on a 60 inches 4K TV, the BlueCast outcome seems the best to me (not telling because I’m italian too, I’m fair! 😉), surely comparable with the wax one.
The other two “opponents” have got their pros and cons in the whole process, but they’re not at the same level when it come to the final result.
BTW, no doubts: the most relevant part of the video is your singing 🎤 👨🏻🎤😂
Great 👍 😉
Ciao 👋🏻
Fulvio from Rome
You have plenty of reason to be proud of Bluecast. I've said many times that it burns away beautifully.
I think in this instance wax won for looks, BUT I think I could have done a better job with the printing. But for burnout, there was no difference!
Many thanks for your comments 😁😁😁👍👍👍
Was one support only needed for these coins? I have a resin printer and looking to do something similar but wasn't sure if supports are needed or not since it's such a small piece.
the bluecast x10 print seems over-exposed. I would try lower exposure times and see if it brings more detail
You may be right. The lettering is a little thick 😁👍👍👍
That squirrel knows his stuff.
Ever since I stopped him drinking Carling Black Label 😊
@@vogman Ha ha! : )
What burnout time and temperature did you use?
Nice and very interesting comparation , thats song was very funny ..:)
Glad you enjoyed it
What wax do you use for the tree structure? And where do I get it from?? Thanks.
Great video thanks for the very interesting content I have wondered what would happen if you where to cast straight resin for awhile.
Well you have you answer... it works, but it doesn't... 😁👍
VOG but just not enough detail
Very interesting comparison Geoff! Now I just have to get 'Eye of the Squirrel' out of my head...
Now that is the real challenge 😁😁😁
You know the more i watch this the more i'm willing to have a 3d printers with me and do this. great video :-)
You should... it's a game changer 😊
Get it and join the dark side lol. I use mine for miniatures but you can use it for all sorts of things. Just make sure to have a good ventilated area for some resins that stink.
Have you tried blowing the mold out with compressed air before casting? I have seen a couple of others do it this way and it seems to work better.
Thanks for sharing :)
That's a technique that scares me. The sudden temperature difference added to the force of the air should damage the plaster in my opinion...
@@vogman The reason that technique scares me is that one is playing with a flask with investment that is at about 550 C and the displaced air coming would also be around 550 C. Another concern is that a blast of air would cool the mold and might require the mold be hotter at burnout or castings would fail because the mold was no longer hot enough.
That song was the best!!
You're the only one to ever say that 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I picked out what they where made with before you said
Big differences
In the looks department wax was the best for sure
Enjoy your informative videos
Did you guess the PLA? 😄😆
To be fair, I think a lot of people would have guessed the same as you and I, but so many folks are claiming you can cast with ordinary resin, etc. Well the answer is, yes you can as long as you don't care what it looks like. If you want a decent finish, then you'll need wax or castable resin 😊
VOG most definitely
with the standard resin could ash deposits have been left and caused that? Would blowing it out have helped? Just curious as im looking at going down this rabbit hole myself lol.
All your videos are good. Subscription well earned!!
This was a very good instruction
Thanks John : )
Dont know if you are aware, butt here is a castable wax filiment for FDM printers. It is called moldlay, and is said to be pretty good. But good video regardless!
LOL that song reminds me of the “Goodies” stage improv style. Definitely a Tim Brooke Taylor😂😂😂😂😂
Remember the giant cat? Classic! 😁😁😁
Why not try FDM ABS with an acetone wash to clean away layer lines ?
I tried lots of things with FDM but never really felt satisfied with the level of detail possible
Never even occurred to me that you could do lost-resin casting with cheap, ordinary resin instead of expensive investment resin. Sure it doesn't look as good, but at 1/4 the cost or less, depending on the relative prices of ordinary vs. investment resin you use, it could still be a decent medium to practice casting with.
Yes I need to know
Dear , in my region there is only hair removing wax ( which is sticky wax )
Would it work? For both with molds and casting process
I have no idea to be honest. You could always experiment with it and see 😁
You could use ironing with PLA to get a better surface finish....
Amazing video for reference! Love your vids!
Thanks so much!
Hello VOG. I'm looking to buy a castable resin from POWER RESIN and I don't know which one to choose for casting. Should I make sure and buy the WAX Castable from POWER RESINS as it works with a standard burnout cycle? and What does it mean with "shrinkage" is about after printing or after casting? Thank you (:
Hi Rafael. Actually I have a bottle of Zero from Power resin to review. I haven't tried it yet.
As you've seen in this video, it seems to me that each type of resin acts differently and may shrink differently. So something printed on the same printer with the same settings might be differently sized if printed with Resin A and Resin B.
I think Zero is basically claiming it doesn't shrink when printed. They CANNOT make the claim that the metal won't shrink when casted, as they can't control physics.
The thing I've noticed about Zero is that they are NOT making any claims about it being 100% ash free, where they do with Burn, Wax and Dark. That worries me...
So, I've used Burn and Wax. They both work well. I personally prefer Wax but the choice is yours.
In your position, I'd buy one of these and do a test print. Measure it. Adjust the size of the print if the shrinkage makes a difference (as it might with a ring or a gear).
Personally I'm not so fussy. I increase all my prints by 1% and forget about it. It seems to work for me 😁
@@vogman Thank you for your complete answer. It was super useful
Wax! is awesome looking
It does shine through 😁
Thank you for this vid. Answered some of my questions. Now I will develop a cellulose nitrate based resin. Dissapears in a few seconds ash free. 😄
I hope it was some use to you Louw. Now we've got to work on an ice printer 😁
@@vogman You've dashed all my hopes and dreams!!! I'll never print again!
It's great to inspire folk 😆😄😁👍👍👍
I’d assume that the differences in size for the resin parts have to do with cure times. They’re possibly undersized because you might be under exposing. Have you done all the XP finder tests by photonsters? Used the tests and turned out I was under exposing too and didn’t even know it.
Can we combine. Print on FDM-PLA with high precision and then wax coat before investment casting will that work?
It certainly could be done, though it's doubling the work 😊
@@vogman
But its certainly 50% cheaper than conventional machining. Moreover for intricate profiles on sheet metal I need to make die even for prototype. I think it saves time too I don't need to wait for different manufacturer to finish their jobs before next is taken up.
so,i was thinking about 3d printing in pla, then maske a cast in silicone, then pour in candle wax, do you think that would work?
Probably not... candle wax is horrible stuff. If you used a castable wax, it you'd get better results 😁
your jokes always make me smile mate :)
Thanks Shane. My singing often makes people laugh 😁😁😁
@@vogman i didn't think it was to bad funny lyrics
Always helpful thank youuuu
My pleasure!
The only problem with bluecast x10 is the price, it was to much expensive, but the result it's great.
I think all GOOD castable resins are fairly expensive right now. I hope the price will drop over time : )
The singing interludes 🤣🤣🤣
Not my finest hour 😜🤣😂😁👍👍👍
@@vogman Comedy gold
Exceptional video. Very informative. But I'm sure an experienced printer like yourself could get a million times better results with that fdm print?
great editing :)
Thanks! 😊
How muck smoke there was when you were burning out resin, wax, castable resin out of furnace?
Perhaps there was no extra dewaxing procedure, so it is interesting to know how much fumes generates such procedure
There's always some smoke. It's best to ventilate well. 😁
@@vogman mmm, is it critical for living room with opened window?
For casting purposes, would it be possible (and beneficial) to print the sprue with all part attached in one go?
Yes, I often include the sprue in my design. Some folks even print the entire casting tree, but I think wax is the cheaper way to go 😁
VOG, I am crying! and when is the album coming out we need more laugh's like this great video mate!
Then it was worth it John 😁
I think a few folks have missed my intention to amuse rather than thrill by singing... and what else could I have sung at that point? It just screamed to be heard 😊😊😊
As for the album, I'm entertaining several offers... though most of these offers can't be repeated in polite company 😆
@@vogman Oh yes it did I'm glad you put it in and those that missed the intention of you amusing us don't have a sense of humor. I always like it when you bring humor into your video's and when I start reording mine for my new channel I hope to do the sane thing! Keep up the good work and stay safe mate .
the castable resin i got tends to expand when i try to burn it out, and crack the mold. that may be what is going on with the standard resin model.
Which wax and printer did you use to cast the wax model?
Try this my friend vegoilguy.co.uk/equipment.php
Coolcool. Fantastic singing
I'm expecting a record deal any moment 😉😄
Hey VOG I've learned so much from you and started a business in jewelry but when I make 3d resin prints the castable wax doesn't stick to the spru tree. I've tried using sticky wax and still doesn't stick .any suggestions
Firstly, excellent - well done. Secondly, that's strange. Obviously it's all about the wax you use and it can often be fiddly, but it should work. The general idea is work quickly using a wax pen (similar to this amzn.to/2SupQ0Q ), melt a small patch of the pattern, then the end of the sprue, then bring them together and hold. I find retouching around the edges with the wax pen helps. In truth it's just a technique you have to practice. I still marvel at how well some guys do this. It takes me ages 😁😁😁
3:45 - Resin shrinks, wax shrinks, and don't forget that the silicone shrinks. Then of course the metal will shrink. Would be kind of fun to dial in all of those factors and figure out what percentage to scale up the original resin print in order to get a properly sized final result.
To do that you need consistency... just one product every time. That's too boring for me, but certainly doable 😁😁😁
I read somewhere if you’re casting silver grillz you would make the model 103% size
Hi Geoff I'm making a foundry to melt copper and aluminium what is the best refractory cement to buy and where can I get it cheaply ?
Hi Steffan. It's hard to say as it really depends on where you are in the world.
In the UK I went here - www.castreekilns.co.uk/castable-refractory-56-c.asp - and have no complaints. It's an easy product to use but it still requires insulation :-)
Thanks I have looked on line but there's all different types and temperature differences I wasn't sure which one was correct thanks
Sorry I'm in Cheshire (uk)
I've already got the "Eye of the Squirrel" 45 preordered.
There's a re-mix coming out in time for Christmas 😉😄
My boss at a foundry blew up the inside by trying to burn out a resin pattern. I tried to tell him it would do exactly that; at 1600 degrees F a long chain polymer loses some of its hydrogen, enough to explode like tnt.
Thanks for a great video, as always. But please no more singing :p Maybe you could try wax filament in your next round. My local print shop got a filament called Moldlay, but it is pretty expensive so it would be nice to see a test before investing.
I understand Bjørn, you don't want me to sing again as you can have too much of a good thing 😆😆😆😆😆
I'll be completely honest... I have a few Castable PLAs here to review. But once I discovered resin printing, it was like going from b&w TV to colour. It's almost impossible to go back. It's not the burn out that bothers me, it's the print quality... they're too far apart for me 😊
non castable resin and poor castable resin for that matter have other issues besides the soot. usually a non castable resin expands during burnout sometimes causing plaster to crack. could explain the extra size
Good point 😁
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I love your videos. Thanks for your content. I wonder if the size difference in the two resin prints (0.06mm) has more to do with the repeatability of the resin printer than the resin? I would guess not given the Phrozen's minimum feature size of 0.035mm. You could find out by printing the same coin in the same resin several times (perhaps moving the coin of the build plate) and seeing if there is a variance in the print sizes.
It's a good point Michael but I'm fairly happy the printer seem consistent across with the same resin : )
another great video VOG did you cure the normal resin before the burn out. ? asi would not have cured it beforehand. just checking :)
I can't see it making any difference. After all the model is UV cured as it's printed. I suspect it's a nonsense claim.
I've had so many people tell me ordinary resins can cast and I've proved here that they are RIGHT. The problem lies in the fact that those same people will look at all four coins in this example and consider them ALL good castings. You can't argue with that as it's the opinion of the individual. But for me there are only 2 successes here.
So I won't argue one way or the other with such speculations. I'll just point them to this video let them make their own minds up.
Some people will buy a lemon and say, "It's as good as an orange. It's still a citric fruit." My view is that they are right, but personally I WANT an orange :-)
@@vogman oh i do agree with you vog. the best ones was the wax and the the castable resin. and wax coming of the top. i would have done what you did and made a mould from a resin cast and injected it with wax. i must admit also i love to carve wax. i tend to do a lot of celtic stuff with it. also i can melt it down and reuse and repair easy :) but again a great video bud :)
It was really hard to see the detail of the Bluecast print. Some still images at a good exposure of each contender before would be good. I was comparing imperfections in the final products, and then went back to see if they came from the originals.
Oh for a good camera 😁😁😁
Squirrels are the bane of makers everywhere.
Ah yes, the eye of the squirrel can drive you nuts!
@@vogman ruclips.net/video/xoyoW9dP1Bs/видео.html
hello, love your vids man. They really helped me out a lote!!!! Little question, is it possible to release the stl file for the siliconeholder ? many thanks !!!
What a singer, it is a new hidded talent of mr VOG. (Is it really new, or even hidded)? 😌
Can a vogger be a good singer ?
Any way you made my day, as usual 😉
My voice is a treasure, many people tell me. But then they suggest it should be buried deep underground 😁👍👍👍
they make a wax like fdm printable filament designed for lost wax casting also might be a better choice then pla
John, I'll be completely honest... I have a few Castable PLAs here to review. But once I discovered resin printing, it was like going from b&w TV to colour. It's almost impossible to go back. It's not the burn out that bothers me, it's the print quality... they're too far apart for me 😊
@@vogman have you thought about going to a .25mm nozzle for finer details?? Just trying to help cover all the bases.
Hello. I'm from Brazil. very good your channel. We would like a test ResinWorks Violet HD LCD and ResinWorks Brown HD DLP on the Phrozen Sonic 4k and Anycibic Photon X printer
I am trying... hopefully one day : )
How thick do ypu print your coins? I tried making some coins in my Elegoo Mars this week that were fairly thin and they came out all warped.
Possibly the way it's supported. I can't remember your email Austin. If you have mine, drop me a line. If not, get in touch here - www.vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_general.php - I'll give you a supported coin file : )
Squirrel LOL 😆 🤣 Resin and PLA are fine for a sandcast in my opinion. Resin better. But as you already know I am moving to wax! I am still unsure why pure wax and melting silver would reduce the purity as no other metals are involved. UNLESS, there is something in the mold.
I don't think it would. I know jewellers that wax cast and assay their silver. You'll be fine 👍
@@vogman VOG, I am AceBullion, or well you can see my channel as jonrms. I spoke to others about lost wax casting including a great artist that has made some lovely pieces. He puts .999fs in and they come back from the Edinburgh assay office as .925 ??? I would love to discuss this further with you as I am trying to buy all the correct starter kits for lost wax. As it would increase productivity and give a consistent pour
Don't worry my friend, I realised it was you. I'm still surprised by that. I don't think I'd look at the wax as the problem. Maybe the saws, files, etc.
@@vogman I didn't think it was the wax either. I thought the plaster could contain metals, and as you said. Not cleaning up the metal properly too.
Just wanted to say your videos have really gotten me interested in lost casting as a future project. I've only gotten into 3D printing this year, but it's already been a blast. I currently have two FDM 3D printers and have been contemplating a resin printer for doing miniatures. But seeing your videos on doing PLA, I see it is plausible to use the FDM printers depending on the projects I would want to do.
A side question, and perhaps you already have a series on this that I just haven't run across yet as I am a new subscriber, what have you used to learn Blender and CAD based programs? I am at the point that I need to learn these for my designs, but I'm having a difficult time with the applications, so I'm searching for good tutorials to get comfortable with them for the purpose of 3D printing.
Hi David. Yes, I think both types of printers still have their uses and that's okay. You can't turn a screw with a hammer, and you can't drive home a nail with a screwdriver. Each has their own advantages disadvantages and uses 😊
As for the CAD stuff, I'm self-taught for the most part so I can't really offer any recommendations :-)
I'm still wandering how small can you go. How much detail and if lare lines can be taken advantage of to make small details in casts.
I agree there's plenty of scope to still be explored : )
@@vogman yeah it will be interesting. I'm looking into casting myself. Practicing on warhammer figures. See how detailed I can go with this.
Surprised you did not hit a copyright match for that singing.
Great video as always, happy Friday.
Are you suggesting I came close to matching any of the correct notes? I'd be thrilled to think I'd hit one... but the fact that there's no music, unique words and it's very much a parody designed to 'remind' people of a much better version is really all I was going for. Plus when you consider how many parody channels there are out there now...
@@vogman you be fine, looking forward to the Christmas album release.
@@vogman As Eric Morecombe said - It has all the right notes but no necessarily in the right order.
BRILLIANT!!!
Now there was a comedy genius.
You should try resin works castable resin
So many things to try 😄
I'd consider adding a few links to your watch. :)
What watch?
I agree with wax
Many thanks : )
@@vogman any time dude😀 but is it possible to use injection wax with a syringe and a silicone mould?
No fair…no warning on singing at the end 😂
True... by that point I was assuming you were immune to the suffering 😁😁😁
I give it to the castable resin
It worked well : )
Good work on the comparisons, but the singing was a bit off, lol but funny.
Off? Off!? Is that some foreign word meaning bloody brilliant?
Don't worry buddy, it's all done in silliness. If it brings the odd smile, then it was worth doing 😁😁😁👍👍👍
Do you have a video trying X-Vest investment?
Not yet, but I do have some to review 😁😁😁
VOG can I send you the instructions on how to use X-Vest?
I'm always happy to take advice and help. Please email me here first - www.vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_general.php - and then I can reply properly. After that we can exchange emails with attachments, etc, as necessary 😊👍
The singing sounds like Herbert from Family Guy
Damn. I was going for Lurch from Addams family 😉😁
Every reputable resin manufacturer has typical shrinkage specs listed for all of their resins.
Good point 😁
Cool video, new viewer, liked and subbed.
Could you help me? Could be a video on replacement parts.
Cast a replacement gear for a cordless screw driver, I think I have a like for like gear that's not damaged, this one has split in half through the shaft hole.
I did a video on making gears a while ago - ruclips.net/video/0ow4x0jadJY/видео.html
There's a couple of possibilities. You could print a new gear from casting resin or even PLA, or you could take the broken gear, glue it together and repair with filler, etc, and use this as a pattern in a silicone mold. 😊
@@vogman thanks, I'll check that video out I miss this little driver, it's only a single cell lithium but had a lot more guts that the newer model I bought to replace it.
I found myself laughing out loud a few times to this one. I'd guessed the wax would clinche it and it does appear the best. Don't give up the day job to be a singer by the way.
I think wax resembles the 4K original print much more closely than the X10 version, but both burned away very clearly.
I thought the Eye of the tiger parody was hilarious, but in a good way. 👍
If it brought a smile, then it did its job 😁👍