that's a very comprehensive shopping/to-do list :)) As a follow-up, can you do one on your feeder and sprue (sprew?) system? I know you have covered those in a few of your videos in the past, but you have evolved and I'm sure you currently have a good idea how to best do it with lost PLA in a casting tree... And it definitely merits a video of its own, methinks =) As usual, thanks for making this video, it's quite educational and teasing to get building!
@@vogman I love it how you always find and take the time to respond to comments! It binds a community together, as I believe you've mentioned in one of your videos. But it also deserves special merit for you as a creator, because I know you already invest so much time in making and managing the videos themselves... I remember quite some time ago I found your channel when I was looking for alternative fuels and reusing waste for energy, and back then I already knew you were destined to become a RUclips classic... You didn't believe me when I told you, but you've been growing steadily ever since, both as a creator as well as the size of your channel, and that makes me conclude I was right. Make sure you take good care of yourself and your loved ones, so that you don't burn yourself out on this. I'd love to keep watching your channel for a long time to come.
You're very kind Luke... and I'm well aware you've been kindly contributing on my channel since almost the start : ) To me it doesn't seem anything special to respond to comments. I know prior to my own Channel - and even since - I've asked questions of YTers and have been frustrated by silence. I get that it's not easy to find the time, especially as channels grow bigger, but I've always tried to answer as many comments as I can. I'm happy to receive feedback (we all like a little ego massage), and I'm happy to receive suggestions. I've never claimed to know everything and the input from comments has steered my thinking on countless occasions. I may not follow every recommendation, but I do read and value them all. As for being a "RUclips Classic" - well, I think you''re being a little generous there. I've watched many channels soar past mine in terms of subscribers and views. I've even watched my methods become the "standard" approach of other YTers, without even a polite nod of recognition, but I get it. I'll continue to try and answer every comment / question, listen to advice and give credit where it's due. If nothing else it helps me sleep better at night : D
@@vogman I love reading comments and your answers to them, because it's like a huge think tank for me, giving me new ideas or making me ask questions that I should have asked myself sooner. If people "borrow" your style or solutions, even without the deserved credit, it shows that you're a core element of the platform, not an adornment. And that's exactly what I meant by being a classic. Those that soar by, often disappear equally fast. It's slow and steady that makes it in the long run. That is, IF youtube survives their own everlasting evolution into more ridiculous rules and false positives... But even then, if YT fails, another platform will take over and hopefully learn from the mistakes :) Speaking of mistakes, I was planning on uploading my first creation video today, but yesterday I messed up all the progress that I made on the items, so today I have to start over... Even though I'm all for showing failure alongside a successful end result, there still needs to be an end result first to do so, hahaha... XD (making some brass trinkets for kids who are celebrating a mile stone. We call it Spring Celebration when it's not connected to a religion or philosophy. Didn't know what to buy them, don't have the cash to make a donation to their savings, so I decided to get a little artistic and forgy. It was very windy yesterday, and I didn't get the metal hot enough for the manipulations that I wanted to do, so I stupidly created fatigue cracks destroying it all beyond repair...) So off to a new start it is! It's still windy, so I'm going to have to move my activities indoors, which might be not such a smart idea: using an open gas forge in a 27 sq.m wooden cabin which is my only dry living space that I share with a Golden Retriever service dog puppy that likes to investigate everything including flames, and a Kangal (one of the largest breeds in existence) bitch in heat that I can't leave alone outside... What could possibly go wrong? X'D
Just a quick thought on how to help protect your vacuum pump. With your long hose curl it round and put it in a bucket of cold water, the air that has been drawn through it will be chilled and this may help to protect your vacuum pump. 👍
I'll be honest Stephen, that was always my plan. But I genuinely found the hose didn't get even slightly warm... so it was a step I didn't need. BUT it is a sensible precaution for anyone trying this for the first time!
@@vogman even better to use a copper tube cooled in water. Plastic hose doesn't transfere heat much at all and it can be very hot innside but cool outside for a long time. On my steam cleaner that runs about 140°C has some kind of silicon/plastic hose and it takes around 20 minutes before it gets warm on the outside
I use one of those pressure paint buckets as a vacuum buffer. Pre-evacuating it with the vacuum pump and opening the inlet valve when needed provides a huge vacuum instantly, rather than the slow vacuum buildup of a pump. If you need additional vacuum you can leave the pump running so the bucket always has the pump drawing it down, and the large volume of the bucket disperses any heat that comes in.
Thank you for existing @VegOilGuy having someone in the UK who has tried & tested supplies and materials is a huge leg up for us before we dive into this world! thanks!!
You are an amazing gent! You have such a keen analytical mind, always finding sound method, and looking for other methods to keep improving. Thanx for the breakdown Geoff! :D
Another great video Geoff! I hope to be able to do some casting later this summer. You have supplied us with great content and how to. I like how you do things on a budget. Most of us are in the same boat, why throw a lot of capital into equipment when you can make your own, and learn something while building the projects! Thanks again. (Pedro)
Thanks Pedro - and there's wisdom in what you say. When you make something yourself, you understand what's involved which gives you greater insight into what's happening : )
You can use a compressor from a fridge or fixed speed AC as a vacuum pump. Just connect to the suction side, won't pump the same volume as the commercial pump but still does the job.
I was about to post that i use a old fridge freon pump hooked up to suction side as a vacume pump successfully on many dyi projects and i got the pump for free.
Electrically powered air inflators for an air mattress (i.e., hook to the inlet side) may be another cheap vac source. I know mine was under $20 USD and is designed to hook up to the air mattress to either inflate or deflate. Seems to push a pretty decent volume as a very low torr vac does not seem necessary. For those looking to use it for a quicky one-off, many of the autopart stores, at least in the US, will rent for a returnable deposit an A/C vac, which while overkill here, is after returning it to get back your deposit, completely free.
Have you tried just spraying the PLA prints with a few layers of plaster and then packing in fine dry sand? It works fantastic with lost foam casting and you don't need a vacuum system.
Excellent video. To the point. Pitched right for me. Sadly, I think it's put me off. I'm not having great results with greensand casting (I'd sand cast a few 3D prints) and thought I'd try this. I don't fancy baking the plaster mould for "hours" and I sure as heck don't want to be running a second furnace. I built my own vacuum pump from an old compressor. I used it for casting polyester resin: it'd probably work. It's the two furnace thing that's putting me off. For a small piece, what happens if I let the mould cool before pouring? What's the minium time I might get away with for burning the PLA out? Yes, I'm looking to shortcut your shortcuts! :-) Thanks.
I watched your videos some time ago and decided that I want to get into this craft. I recently have purchased a devil forge, vacuum pump and chamber. I already have 3D printers, now time to collect the other equipment and materials. Almost there and will check in when I am tooled up!
Great guide. I really can't wait to get into this hobby, I've got the printer just need the rest. I think I'll be starting with your tutorial series to make my own gear, then if I get serious I'll move into the pre-built stuff. Thanks again for the great content!
Going in via the Low Cost Method is the best way to explore any new hobby. That way you can avoid buying a White Elephant if you change your mind or if you really enjoy it then you can develop your equipment as you develop your skills without damaging your budget.
Great vid, FYI, You can make a inexpensive vacuum pump from a cheap 12v car Tyre inflator, just bodge a pipe to the inlet of the pump (I used JB weld). I use mine for vacuum bleeding brakes, works well. it will pull a decent vacuum and it can still be used as intended for inflating Tyres.
FYI- Just as you can store pressurized air in a tank for surge usage, you can store vacuum in a vacuum chamber. You can either use some sort of container that is made to handle a vacuum or you can seal up some 4" schedule 40 PVC pipe which will store a cubic foot per linear foot (8 foot pipe yields 8 cubic feet of vacuum). Connect it to your smaller casting chamber with an inline ball valve in case you need to slow things down.
I made a vacuum setup for a perforated flask. I just cut a hole in the top of an old pressure cooker the size of my flasks and threaded in a nipple for the vacuum pump
Hi. I learned something new today. What kind of mold investment powder are you using? Can you use cast iron or steel or platinum alloy for this kind of molds? Is there a lot of shrinkage? I know nothing about wax casting. I am interested in learning so I can produce my own products. After watching your video there is a lot of work to make a metal part. How much is it to build a couple of parts in steel alloy? Thank you.
Hey my friend i love your videos! I`m trying to make some aluminum castings! Biggest issue i have is Time, distance and money of course! Time: I have problems with plaster, to much time to bake plaster and is not safe to leave in my garage because of my kids. Distance: I live in Croatia and i order one batch (5kg) of Petrobond it cost me a 50 quid (A Good money on that goes in ) and take over a month to arrive on my adress. Is they some alternatives on baking plaster like microwave or someting else. And what alternitve to petrobond tipe material i can use to produce good results on my castings!
Hi Vog, I just watched this video and it extremely helpful, thank you. I was wondering what PLA filament you are using? I will now go through some more of your videos to see if you have answered someone else who may have asked the same question.
Do you account for metal shrinkage when designing the 3D model? And if so, do you simply scale up uniformly based on a shrinkage constant of the material used?
If you watch my latest video ruclips.net/video/8p7I8IVmpSo/видео.html you'll see shrinking happens at both the printing and the casting stage. Personally I bank on 1% shrinkage at the outset and as a general guide, this seems to work okay for me 😊
This is the best all around guide for lost pla casting that I've ever seen. Great job my friend !!! I have got a simple (probably dumb too...) question... Can't I use the furnace as the oven too? I mean... I knew that furnaces were just ovens that reach greater temperatures...
I took a very quick look on eBay and immediately found a refurbished vacuum pump including a 5 gallon vacuum chamber for less than US$130. There were many such items listed.
Great video, very helpful. What brand of investment plaster do you recommend (I'm in the UK also), I've tried some designed for Jewellery and had limited success with aluminium, although copper was fine in it.
Thanks Kieran. If you check the description you'll find links there : ) But Aluminium is an awkward one I'm hearing. Whilst I've had successes with it, apparently it's not the best metal for investment casting - or so the plaster manufacturers tell me.
Hi VoG, Great video! Have you seen any loss of detail or quality on the castings when using PLA instead of wax? When you used the blue injection wax for coins the results had a really impressive level of detail.
Hi Hördi. Actually I think the detail is better. Personally I find if I take a model, silicone mould it, wax cast it, I've lost some detail. It's not much, but I can see it. With lost PLA, you've skipped two processes that could potentially spoil the crispness. I'm still learning and far from an expert, but I really think Lost PLA has massive potential... but I also love Lost Wax : )
I wanted to share with you what I did for my vacuum portion last time but I forgot. :P I converted an old used propane tank ($5) that I place a vacuum on with a electric pump (definitely could use a hand pump as well and save some cash) and leave it charged so it'll be ready when needed. It'll draw air for a good while.
Nice idea. I toyed with the same plan myself but space is at a premium in my workshop, so I went with something a little more compact. But thanks for the share. It may inspire others to be equally creative : )
Great vid, thanks. What about dimensional changes between the PLA and the metal version? I had a friend who was a foundry man and he told me to expect some shrinkage between the model and the metal. What is your experience? Should I be 3d printing the PLA piece 5 or 10% oversized to compensate? Thanks.
Hi Capi. Generally a shrinkage rate of around 1% is more likely. Look out for my video next Friday. It covers this exact issue. In it I cast 3 small items of different metal looking for shrinkage. Now these are small, only maybe a couple of inches long, and there is hardly any shrinkage. Obviously with bigger items the shrinkage would be more obvious. But as a guide, between 1 and 2% seems most common.
If you make a vacuum chamber you can make the flow of gasses go across an aluminum heatsink in the chamber to keep particulate and temperatures down to extend pump life
Pardon my ignorance and thanks for your wisdom - regarding the burn out phase, does the molten metal not provide enough heat to burn out the PLA? If not would this change on a hollow print? Is there residue in the casting without the burnout?
It's good to ask questions - that's how we learn : ) Despite the amazingly high temperatures, metal solidifies surprisingly fast. Melting objects uses up energy and cools the metal, so it solidifies fast, typically about halfway through the object its melting, spoiling the cast. If you melt the pla away first, it might leave a tiny residue, but not really enough to cause a problem. So for the most part the metal is just filling up an empty space. Hope this helps.
Hello VOG. Do you know how much shrinkage needs to be accounted for in PLA lost casting? The aluminum pour will shrink as it cools so the PLA mold should be larger to accommodate for shrinkage. I read someplace that the PLA mold should about 30% larger.
I wonder why the preference is for plaster here? On another channel it seems Myfordboy uses greensand for casting and seems to have very good results. (Not with PLA if I recall, but other than that it seems the process is practically the same. It would seem possible to adapt it.) I think if the sand works, it'd allow for more material recycling to be done, as the majority of sand could be re-used.
You need to recheck Myford's approach. He DOES use plaster for Lost PLA. However, he will sometimes place the plaster into sand as a support material rather than use a metal flask (I've done this myself in some of my videos). This is just good sense and making use of what's available, a technique I always applaud. But with that said, I'm fairly sure in his most recent Lost PLA video, where he tries to develop a centrifugal device, I think I remember seeing him use a flask. Personally I'm betting he'll have a go with a vacuum before long... that's where the real benefit of this plaster comes from - and yes, Myford DOES use the proper investment casting plaster. He shows us the label. In case you haven't guessed, I'm a Myfordboy fan and sub : D
No, but it's my understanding there's no difference. It's just about getting the plaster off. The metal freezes within just a few seconds. But once the plaster is cold, it's hard and has to be hammered away... this could damage the casting : )
Thank you for the video. When you say you melt the PLA out at "very high temperatures," what exactly is that temperature. I want to melt out the PLA and not burn it out.
Essentially you need to do both. Most of the PLA should run out as it liquidises as the temperature rises, but some will always stay behind and need to be burned out. In conventional investment casting, it's often the practice to raise the temperature to around 750C and hold for 4 hours.
Do you really need a burnout oven? It seems really excessive for baking plaster. I'd think you could use just a normal oven no? If not, isn't there other material you can use that doesn't require super high temperatures to cure?
Hey Vog steadily picking up supplies I’m having some issues which wax sprews to buy , which diameter for the tree or the main wax that goes to the mold , I know if your doing several they have small wax for that I found a kit for around $30us but don’t see any bigger ones for the main pour diameter.
Hi Zach. I know the sprues I use are Ferris and they come from the US. If you look at this web link, the main sprues I use are the pale green ones. They're roughly 9mm. I dare say an email to Ferris will tell you where you can buys these :-) www.freemanwax.com/sprue-waxes.html
VOG thanks always a big help, every day getting closer to getting my foundry going , waiting on my truck to get out the body shop to pick up a few old bigger propane tanks to make a foundry and furnace! Great video on the new review also!
I haven't cast and compared, but I have printed and compared in my Elegoo Mars review. There's a massive difference in quality which I highly then, showing a few examples. Just imagine these example in metal and you've got what you're after : ) ruclips.net/video/Z-qC9KtOOzk/видео.html
Have you considered printing on PEI sheets? I love mine so much! I find that painters tape is expensive for me and PEI is very resilient! I have a sheet ready for my second printer, but have not installed it yet.
@@vogman www.amazon.com/stores/node/2529487011?_encoding=UTF8&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Gizmo%20Dorks&ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2529487011 The company is very good indeedl
Casting is a journey. It takes time and practice. Honestly no one can tell you in a sentence how to cast better. You just need to keep trying and eventually you'll get there. Personally I'm still learning and feel I have a long way to go 😁
I'm curious and know only what I've learned in your videos, if you were using a perforated flask- could you pour and then put the flask inside of your vacuum chamber to achieve a detailed mold?
@@vogman Thanks for the reply. I did my first pour yesterday. I ofcourse did everything wrong- which is good in a way yet it did turn out into something I was excited about. A vacuum chamber to pour into would be quite a cool concept.
If say I wanted to to use this method for casting a brass AR-15 lower, would I still use 100% infill? Or do you think 50% would be able to withstand the vacuum force?
Hi Jared. The vacuum is our friends as it encourages to metal to flow into every nook and cranny. Infill is really something to worry about if you want to keep a PLA item nice and strong. Once it melts, there's no infill, just 100% metal. I'm still experimenting but as far as I'm aware, there's no difference between 100% infill and 0 infill with this technique. As long as plenty of time is given for the PLA to melt, drain away and burn out any residue. This leaves the void for the metal to fill and that's the part we really want. With that said, logically I would say you want as little PLA there as possible... the less there is to melt and burn, the more likely your success will be. So my advice, print to the minimum infill you can get away with. If it flexes and bends, you may need a little more infill, but if it holds up the moderate handling, it will survive the plaster vacuum stage and melt away nicely for you : )
No my friend. That's where the word "investment" comes from. You sacrifice the cost of the plaster to achieve the casting... so you "invest" it. It's a damn shame though as it's the most expensive part of this process : )
Hi Dylan. It's done using the same vacuum chamber I built - but using it slightly differently. Here's the video where I figured this out - ruclips.net/video/EGNnH_xbjR4/видео.html
You have to appreciate I get a lot of people writing to me asking if I’ll print and cast things for them, so many in fact that I could never keep up. So when I get asked, I’ll be honest, most of the time the answer is ‘no’ simply because I don’t have the time or the resources. BUT do ask... let me know what it is you’d like casting. IF your idea sparks interest in me, I may try and find the time. BUT you must appreciate I can’t make any promises. I do what I do for the fun of it... if it starts to feel like work, well, that takes all the fun of of it for me. If you want to contact me privately, you can do so here: www.vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_me.php
@@vogman I appreciate your response and I completely understand. My goal is to eventually do this myself when I finally get the time. I have all the supplies to build a foundry just sitting in my shop and an almost endless supply of aluminum scraps(I work in a machine shop) Work seems to get in the way of life lol.
No worries my friend. There's a far greater sense of satisfaction when you make things yourself. But with that said, you can ask, honestly, but just don't be disappointed if I say know : )
A kitchen oven would easily burn out the PLA, which around 250C would do. But the plaster has to be taken all the way to 720C to properly prepare it for casting : )
@@vogman gotchya. Thanks for the response. I have been playing around with the whole process past couple of weeks. I am almost ready to get serious about it. I have been having issues with my plaster holding up to the pour. I thought i was allowing enough time and heat to completely dry out my molds. With so many variables I was about to write it off to something else in my evolving, temporary set up. I will definitely crank the heat towards the end of its cycle and see. Thanks again. Love your videos vegdude
No worries. It's a fiddly process to play with... you really need to follow the rules. You need a good plaster and you need to look up the burnout process for THAT plaster as they can differ : )
howdy! is your casting tree available on thingiverse? i noticed the celtic knot (thanks for that) i would love to see a professionally made one before i start again (most likely with failure)
Hey VegOilGuy! Why you use colored plastic? I mostly buy plastic pools, that are made during the color changing process. They are mostly uncolored, kinda raw pla, but can have a bit of color, and cheaper then colored ones from the same type of pla. I would think the lost PLA method would work better without extra coloring, and cheaper too.
The PLA is encased in investment plaster and then placed into a hot oven for several hours. The PLA melts away and its shape is left in the plaster : )
And I know some people are going to comment "it doesn't matter" or "it's not worth it" that's not the question. I have my own PLA and other plastics recycling systems and a filament extruder and I make my own 3D filament The question is WHY because i want to understand the reason why people aren't melting it out at 200 degrees C instead
If you CAN recycle the PLA, then yes it can be done : ) I know with wax I recycle. I tend to place a container beneath the flask and heat moderately. As the wax melts it drips into the container which I then remove, filter and reuse. If you heat to 250C you could certainly recover the PLA in the same way, though personally I have no idea how you'd reuse it : )
(1) Reusing PLA by making new wire is still not up to most people's standard of PLA wire. Usually dimensional/roundness issues. This is with freshly printed chips. (2) How do you filter out the micrometer sized plaster dust? That stuff will ruin a nozzle real quick by acting like sand-paper and also clogging it up. I use the PLA for the master models and use wax for burnout.
@@jhsevs can you make a video of making filament from recycled PLA? Would you need to add new softeners that evaporate during the melting process? Perhaps if more people could learn your way of recycling filament, they would melt out the bulk before burning out the left overs that are caught in corners or capilary details... I'm sure as the technique finds a wider application and popularity, more main stream solutions will appear. I don't think there are any reasons not to recycle other than cost efficiency or manufacturing restriction due to requirements of the plaster curing process (lower temperature requires longer heating cycle, also depending on the prescribed baking cycles of the plaster it might be tricky to interrupt the process to remove the recovered PLA before raising the temperature. All things that may increase the cost of the process and will increase the time spent)
@@jhsevs I just set up a garbage disposal to grind failed prints for recycling, please take a look and I'd like your opinion on the method. ruclips.net/video/rrGHxHEwGcs/видео.html
You can see for yourself. Look at my early day experiments with lost wax casting... I never really got it right until I made my own cheap vacuum system - ruclips.net/p/PLOzaysTbaKi6jcKZyiLBV_i42_6SgkRe8
that's a very comprehensive shopping/to-do list :)) As a follow-up, can you do one on your feeder and sprue (sprew?) system? I know you have covered those in a few of your videos in the past, but you have evolved and I'm sure you currently have a good idea how to best do it with lost PLA in a casting tree... And it definitely merits a video of its own, methinks =)
As usual, thanks for making this video, it's quite educational and teasing to get building!
Thanks Luke : )
@@vogman I love it how you always find and take the time to respond to comments! It binds a community together, as I believe you've mentioned in one of your videos. But it also deserves special merit for you as a creator, because I know you already invest so much time in making and managing the videos themselves... I remember quite some time ago I found your channel when I was looking for alternative fuels and reusing waste for energy, and back then I already knew you were destined to become a RUclips classic... You didn't believe me when I told you, but you've been growing steadily ever since, both as a creator as well as the size of your channel, and that makes me conclude I was right.
Make sure you take good care of yourself and your loved ones, so that you don't burn yourself out on this. I'd love to keep watching your channel for a long time to come.
You're very kind Luke... and I'm well aware you've been kindly contributing on my channel since almost the start : )
To me it doesn't seem anything special to respond to comments. I know prior to my own Channel - and even since - I've asked questions of YTers and have been frustrated by silence. I get that it's not easy to find the time, especially as channels grow bigger, but I've always tried to answer as many comments as I can.
I'm happy to receive feedback (we all like a little ego massage), and I'm happy to receive suggestions. I've never claimed to know everything and the input from comments has steered my thinking on countless occasions. I may not follow every recommendation, but I do read and value them all.
As for being a "RUclips Classic" - well, I think you''re being a little generous there. I've watched many channels soar past mine in terms of subscribers and views. I've even watched my methods become the "standard" approach of other YTers, without even a polite nod of recognition, but I get it.
I'll continue to try and answer every comment / question, listen to advice and give credit where it's due. If nothing else it helps me sleep better at night : D
@@vogman I love reading comments and your answers to them, because it's like a huge think tank for me, giving me new ideas or making me ask questions that I should have asked myself sooner. If people "borrow" your style or solutions, even without the deserved credit, it shows that you're a core element of the platform, not an adornment. And that's exactly what I meant by being a classic. Those that soar by, often disappear equally fast. It's slow and steady that makes it in the long run. That is, IF youtube survives their own everlasting evolution into more ridiculous rules and false positives... But even then, if YT fails, another platform will take over and hopefully learn from the mistakes :)
Speaking of mistakes, I was planning on uploading my first creation video today, but yesterday I messed up all the progress that I made on the items, so today I have to start over... Even though I'm all for showing failure alongside a successful end result, there still needs to be an end result first to do so, hahaha... XD (making some brass trinkets for kids who are celebrating a mile stone. We call it Spring Celebration when it's not connected to a religion or philosophy. Didn't know what to buy them, don't have the cash to make a donation to their savings, so I decided to get a little artistic and forgy. It was very windy yesterday, and I didn't get the metal hot enough for the manipulations that I wanted to do, so I stupidly created fatigue cracks destroying it all beyond repair...)
So off to a new start it is! It's still windy, so I'm going to have to move my activities indoors, which might be not such a smart idea: using an open gas forge in a 27 sq.m wooden cabin which is my only dry living space that I share with a Golden Retriever service dog puppy that likes to investigate everything including flames, and a Kangal (one of the largest breeds in existence) bitch in heat that I can't leave alone outside... What could possibly go wrong? X'D
Just a quick thought on how to help protect your vacuum pump. With your long hose curl it round and put it in a bucket of cold water, the air that has been drawn through it will be chilled and this may help to protect your vacuum pump. 👍
I'll be honest Stephen, that was always my plan. But I genuinely found the hose didn't get even slightly warm... so it was a step I didn't need. BUT it is a sensible precaution for anyone trying this for the first time!
@@vogman even better to use a copper tube cooled in water.
Plastic hose doesn't transfere heat much at all and it can be very hot innside but cool outside for a long time.
On my steam cleaner that runs about 140°C has some kind of silicon/plastic hose and it takes around 20 minutes before it gets warm on the outside
I use one of those pressure paint buckets as a vacuum buffer. Pre-evacuating it with the vacuum pump and opening the inlet valve when needed provides a huge vacuum instantly, rather than the slow vacuum buildup of a pump. If you need additional vacuum you can leave the pump running so the bucket always has the pump drawing it down, and the large volume of the bucket disperses any heat that comes in.
No worries Ivan : )
Brilliant idea to use the spray paint pot to provide extra capacity for the vacuum pump.
I've been watching your videos and learning so much! Thank you for making them!!
Thank you for your clear explanations. It s a pleasure to watch.
Hi from France :)
Merci : )
Thank you for existing @VegOilGuy having someone in the UK who has tried & tested supplies and materials is a huge leg up for us before we dive into this world! thanks!!
Thanks very much : D
👍🏻😁very informative bro🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
Thanks mate : D
Excellent - thank you for the listed info - Uedaman!
No worries : )
Love it!!! Gonna be trying my hand at it soon!
You'll have a great time Jack : )
I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing your methods.
Thanks Jody : )
amazing! thanks for the video. its great to have a complete picture of what the whole process will require
No worries. happy to help : )
I missed this video, thank you for your support and for emailing me the link. Jon
Happy to help : )
Great presentation mate, very well done.
Many thanks 😁
I didn’t know Ringo Starr also did RUclips vids! Awesome!
Great explanation. 👍🏻 the one thing I would have added is the temp at which you burn it out and whether you slowly increase it at intervals.
That depends on the plaster mate... that's why I showed the graph : )
Fantastic video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Wow so many lovely projects in a video! I'd better get started...
Go for it! You'll love it : )
You are an amazing gent!
You have such a keen analytical mind, always finding sound method, and looking for other methods to keep improving.
Thanx for the breakdown Geoff! :D
You read that script perfectly. The cheques in the mail ; )
devil forge is also sending me a foundry, pretty excited to see the quality :D
You'll love it : )
Thanks Pal, Shuld get me all set up for my future projects. Keep up the good work
Thanks John. Good luck with your projects : )
@@vogman thank you mate.
Another great video Geoff! I hope to be able to do some casting later this summer. You have supplied us with great content and how to. I like how you do things on a budget. Most of us are in the same boat, why throw a lot of capital into equipment when you can make your own, and learn something while building the projects! Thanks again. (Pedro)
Thanks Pedro - and there's wisdom in what you say. When you make something yourself, you understand what's involved which gives you greater insight into what's happening : )
Good summary information video Geoff.
Thanks Mark.
Great job!!
Thanks : )
You can use a compressor from a fridge or fixed speed AC as a vacuum pump. Just connect to the suction side, won't pump the same volume as the commercial pump but still does the job.
I have heard that said Gary. I've never tried it, but it is a good tip : )
since the casting doesn't require a high volume, that might do the trick indeed. And it's a lot less noisy than an old Dyson =)
I was about to post that i use a old fridge freon pump hooked up to suction side as a vacume pump successfully on many dyi projects and i got the pump for free.
Electrically powered air inflators for an air mattress (i.e., hook to the inlet side) may be another cheap vac source. I know mine was under $20 USD and is designed to hook up to the air mattress to either inflate or deflate. Seems to push a pretty decent volume as a very low torr vac does not seem necessary. For those looking to use it for a quicky one-off, many of the autopart stores, at least in the US, will rent for a returnable deposit an A/C vac, which while overkill here, is after returning it to get back your deposit, completely free.
Have you tried just spraying the PLA prints with a few layers of plaster and then packing in fine dry sand? It works fantastic with lost foam casting and you don't need a vacuum system.
Excellent video. To the point. Pitched right for me. Sadly, I think it's put me off. I'm not having great results with greensand casting (I'd sand cast a few 3D prints) and thought I'd try this. I don't fancy baking the plaster mould for "hours" and I sure as heck don't want to be running a second furnace. I built my own vacuum pump from an old compressor. I used it for casting polyester resin: it'd probably work. It's the two furnace thing that's putting me off. For a small piece, what happens if I let the mould cool before pouring? What's the minium time I might get away with for burning the PLA out? Yes, I'm looking to shortcut your shortcuts! :-) Thanks.
I watched your videos some time ago and decided that I want to get into this craft. I recently have purchased a devil forge, vacuum pump and chamber. I already have 3D printers, now time to collect the other equipment and materials. Almost there and will check in when I am tooled up!
I'm thrilled to have inspired your interest. By all means let me know how you get on. Just play safely!!
😊
VOG Thank you. I fully intend on being safe, fires here in Australia are a very real threat. Safety comes first, always.
Great guide.
I really can't wait to get into this hobby, I've got the printer just need the rest.
I think I'll be starting with your tutorial series to make my own gear, then if I get serious I'll move into the pre-built stuff.
Thanks again for the great content!
Happy to help : )
Going in via the Low Cost Method is the best way to explore any new hobby. That way you can avoid buying a White Elephant if you change your mind or if you really enjoy it then you can develop your equipment as you develop your skills without damaging your budget.
Well said Mark.
Great vid,
FYI, You can make a inexpensive vacuum pump from a cheap 12v car Tyre inflator, just bodge a pipe to the inlet of the pump (I used JB weld). I use mine for vacuum bleeding brakes, works well. it will pull a decent vacuum and it can still be used as intended for inflating Tyres.
Nice idea : )
It s a good video..i ve got a question could tell me how long time takes the pla to melted in the Electric foundry?thanks million
You could add an inline cooling sleeve for your vacuum pump like a condenser system for a still that will cool down the air before it reaches the pump
FYI- Just as you can store pressurized air in a tank for surge usage, you can store vacuum in a vacuum chamber. You can either use some sort of container that is made to handle a vacuum or you can seal up some 4" schedule 40 PVC pipe which will store a cubic foot per linear foot (8 foot pipe yields 8 cubic feet of vacuum). Connect it to your smaller casting chamber with an inline ball valve in case you need to slow things down.
this.is perfect thank you
Happy to help Shane : D
I made a vacuum setup for a perforated flask. I just cut a hole in the top of an old pressure cooker the size of my flasks and threaded in a nipple for the vacuum pump
I love your videos mate, if the wife didn’t buy a caravan id be hiding in my garage with all the necessary equipment!
I hear you. Keep her happy... that way you'll be happy : )
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi. I learned something new today. What kind of mold investment powder are you using? Can you use cast iron or steel or platinum alloy for this kind of molds? Is there a lot of shrinkage? I know nothing about wax casting. I am interested in learning so I can produce my own products. After watching your video there is a lot of work to make a metal part. How much is it to build a couple of parts in steel alloy? Thank you.
I've once made a vacuum pump from an old refrigerator compressor. Goes slow but does the job.
Excellent Mario. I had heard this was possible, so it's nice to hear from someone who's done it : )
Hey my friend i love your videos!
I`m trying to make some aluminum castings!
Biggest issue i have is Time, distance and money of course!
Time: I have problems with plaster, to much time to bake plaster and is not safe to leave in my garage because of my kids.
Distance: I live in Croatia and i order one batch (5kg) of Petrobond it cost me a 50 quid (A Good money on that goes in ) and take over a month to arrive on my adress.
Is they some alternatives on baking plaster like microwave or someting else.
And what alternitve to petrobond tipe material i can use to produce good results on my castings!
Thanks
Thanks to you too : )
Very clearr , but perhaps you can make the same with ABS and solve it with acéton ?!
The Futurama Dr Zoidberg's voice... 😎
Hi Vog, I just watched this video and it extremely helpful, thank you. I was wondering what PLA filament you are using? I will now go through some more of your videos to see if you have answered someone else who may have asked the same question.
Thanks Andrew. Have a look in the description. There should be a link to Amazon : )
Do you account for metal shrinkage when designing the 3D model? And if so, do you simply scale up uniformly based on a shrinkage constant of the material used?
If you watch my latest video ruclips.net/video/8p7I8IVmpSo/видео.html you'll see shrinking happens at both the printing and the casting stage. Personally I bank on 1% shrinkage at the outset and as a general guide, this seems to work okay for me 😊
This is the best all around guide for lost pla casting that I've ever seen. Great job my friend !!! I have got a simple (probably dumb too...) question... Can't I use the furnace as the oven too? I mean... I knew that furnaces were just ovens that reach greater temperatures...
As long as they are for high temperatures and you can control the heat safely, you can use pretty much anything : )
So what would happen if I didn't use a vacuum at any point?
I took a very quick look on eBay and immediately found a refurbished vacuum pump including a 5 gallon vacuum chamber for less than US$130. There were many such items listed.
Fantastic! And expensive, some day I will do it, rn I'll stay with my printer
It is expensive, like every hobby. But it's amazing the things you can creat... jewellery, brackets, toys, levers, gears, you name it : )
Great video, very helpful. What brand of investment plaster do you recommend (I'm in the UK also), I've tried some designed for Jewellery and had limited success with aluminium, although copper was fine in it.
Thanks Kieran. If you check the description you'll find links there : )
But Aluminium is an awkward one I'm hearing. Whilst I've had successes with it, apparently it's not the best metal for investment casting - or so the plaster manufacturers tell me.
Hi VoG, Great video! Have you seen any loss of detail or quality on the castings when using PLA instead of wax? When you used the blue injection wax for coins the results had a really impressive level of detail.
Hi Hördi. Actually I think the detail is better.
Personally I find if I take a model, silicone mould it, wax cast it, I've lost some detail. It's not much, but I can see it.
With lost PLA, you've skipped two processes that could potentially spoil the crispness.
I'm still learning and far from an expert, but I really think Lost PLA has massive potential... but I also love Lost Wax : )
Ever thought about using a vacuum ejector on a pressurized air system? Could be a quite cheap option if you already have a compressor.
One thing I don't own is a good compressor. The one I have couldn't blow up a balloon with pausing for more breath several times : )
I wanted to share with you what I did for my vacuum portion last time but I forgot. :P
I converted an old used propane tank ($5) that I place a vacuum on with a electric pump (definitely could use a hand pump as well and save some cash) and leave it charged so it'll be ready when needed. It'll draw air for a good while.
Nice idea. I toyed with the same plan myself but space is at a premium in my workshop, so I went with something a little more compact. But thanks for the share. It may inspire others to be equally creative : )
Great vid, thanks. What about dimensional changes between the PLA and the metal version? I had a friend who was a foundry man and he told me to expect some shrinkage between the model and the metal. What is your experience? Should I be 3d printing the PLA piece 5 or 10% oversized to compensate? Thanks.
Hi Capi. Generally a shrinkage rate of around 1% is more likely.
Look out for my video next Friday. It covers this exact issue. In it I cast 3 small items of different metal looking for shrinkage. Now these are small, only maybe a couple of inches long, and there is hardly any shrinkage. Obviously with bigger items the shrinkage would be more obvious. But as a guide, between 1 and 2% seems most common.
If you make a vacuum chamber you can make the flow of gasses go across an aluminum heatsink in the chamber to keep particulate and temperatures down to extend pump life
Nice thinking : )
Pardon my ignorance and thanks for your wisdom - regarding the burn out phase, does the molten metal not provide enough heat to burn out the PLA? If not would this change on a hollow print? Is there residue in the casting without the burnout?
It's good to ask questions - that's how we learn : )
Despite the amazingly high temperatures, metal solidifies surprisingly fast. Melting objects uses up energy and cools the metal, so it solidifies fast, typically about halfway through the object its melting, spoiling the cast.
If you melt the pla away first, it might leave a tiny residue, but not really enough to cause a problem. So for the most part the metal is just filling up an empty space.
Hope this helps.
Hello VOG. Do you know how much shrinkage needs to be accounted for in PLA lost casting? The aluminum pour will shrink as it cools so the PLA mold should be larger to accommodate for shrinkage. I read someplace that the PLA mold should about 30% larger.
Sorry Luis, no. I generally guess at about 1% but for accuracy, you're better off doing a trial casting and measuring the differences.
I wonder why the preference is for plaster here? On another channel it seems Myfordboy uses greensand for casting and seems to have very good results. (Not with PLA if I recall, but other than that it seems the process is practically the same. It would seem possible to adapt it.) I think if the sand works, it'd allow for more material recycling to be done, as the majority of sand could be re-used.
You need to recheck Myford's approach. He DOES use plaster for Lost PLA. However, he will sometimes place the plaster into sand as a support material rather than use a metal flask (I've done this myself in some of my videos). This is just good sense and making use of what's available, a technique I always applaud. But with that said, I'm fairly sure in his most recent Lost PLA video, where he tries to develop a centrifugal device, I think I remember seeing him use a flask. Personally I'm betting he'll have a go with a vacuum before long... that's where the real benefit of this plaster comes from - and yes, Myford DOES use the proper investment casting plaster. He shows us the label.
In case you haven't guessed, I'm a Myfordboy fan and sub : D
How Strong of a vacuum do you need? Would a home built venturi pump work? since they are simple and should not be affected by heat at all
In his Casting Handbook, John Campbell suggests that even a moderate vacuum will work. So give it a go : )
Have you experienced different results if you wait for the metal to fully cool before dissolving the plaster.
No, but it's my understanding there's no difference. It's just about getting the plaster off. The metal freezes within just a few seconds. But once the plaster is cold, it's hard and has to be hammered away... this could damage the casting : )
Is that copper that those casts are made of? also how do you get the casts so detailed?
Sometimes copper, but more typically I use bronze. It flows nicely.
As for the rest, it's just practice 😁😁😁
Thank you for the video. When you say you melt the PLA out at "very high temperatures," what exactly is that temperature. I want to melt out the PLA and not burn it out.
Essentially you need to do both. Most of the PLA should run out as it liquidises as the temperature rises, but some will always stay behind and need to be burned out. In conventional investment casting, it's often the practice to raise the temperature to around 750C and hold for 4 hours.
Have you considered using an air compressor and a venturi vacuum? If you all ready have an air compressor they make a cheap and robust vacuum source.
I don't have a suitable compressor if I'm honest, but I get what you mean. Interesting concept : )
Can I use my gas furnace to melt out the wax instead of a electric kiln?
Hi Jason, yes you can, though personally I prefer the control of electricity : )
whether the model is made of plastic
Do you really need a burnout oven? It seems really excessive for baking plaster. I'd think you could use just a normal oven no? If not, isn't there other material you can use that doesn't require super high temperatures to cure?
Hey Vog steadily picking up supplies I’m having some issues which wax sprews to buy , which diameter for the tree or the main wax that goes to the mold , I know if your doing several they have small wax for that I found a kit for around $30us but don’t see any bigger ones for the main pour diameter.
Hi Zach. I know the sprues I use are Ferris and they come from the US. If you look at this web link, the main sprues I use are the pale green ones. They're roughly 9mm. I dare say an email to Ferris will tell you where you can buys these :-)
www.freemanwax.com/sprue-waxes.html
VOG thanks always a big help, every day getting closer to getting my foundry going , waiting on my truck to get out the body shop to pick up a few old bigger propane tanks to make a foundry and furnace! Great video on the new review also!
Vog can you please do the casting with a resin printer please, just to see if the difference in fine detail.
I haven't cast and compared, but I have printed and compared in my Elegoo Mars review. There's a massive difference in quality which I highly then, showing a few examples. Just imagine these example in metal and you've got what you're after : )
ruclips.net/video/Z-qC9KtOOzk/видео.html
Have you considered printing on PEI sheets? I love mine so much! I find that painters tape is expensive for me and PEI is very resilient! I have a sheet ready for my second printer, but have not installed it yet.
I haven't tried them yet, no. I'm still very new to 3D printer and am frankly still amazed when things print : D
@@vogman www.amazon.com/stores/node/2529487011?_encoding=UTF8&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Gizmo%20Dorks&ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2529487011
The company is very good indeedl
i folowed each of your stelps, and i still get some deformations on cooling, and some porous surfaces..
Casting is a journey. It takes time and practice. Honestly no one can tell you in a sentence how to cast better. You just need to keep trying and eventually you'll get there. Personally I'm still learning and feel I have a long way to go 😁
Could you print a mould then use wax in the mould to then cast metal so you aren't killing a print each time you want to make the same thing?
Yes. I know professionals that do that. They come up with a design, print it, perfect it, silicone mold it, then wax cast as many as they need : )
3:35 😦how did you do that?? Do you think one can make a flexible shaft with something similar? It blew my mind! Wish I were more handy!
What the coil making jig? It's VERY easy to make, honestly ruclips.net/video/I-5_MN5_Fmc/видео.html 😁😁😁
Can i cast if the flax is 200°c and if i use everything else ? I am having problem to rais the flax temperature that's why
I tried it early on and it works, but it's not perfect. So really it's about how close to perfection you want to go : )
I'm curious and know only what I've learned in your videos, if you were using a perforated flask- could you pour and then put the flask inside of your vacuum chamber to achieve a detailed mold?
In theory yes, but you'd need to be quick as the metal freezes very quickly... plus the chamber and pump would need to be able to handle the heat : )
@@vogman Thanks for the reply. I did my first pour yesterday. I ofcourse did everything wrong- which is good in a way yet it did turn out into something I was excited about. A vacuum chamber to pour into would be quite a cool concept.
Is that a University of Kentucky Wildcat at 1:30?
Yes Tony. This is where I made it... ruclips.net/video/KBqDQv5ybVY/видео.html
If say I wanted to to use this method for casting a brass AR-15 lower, would I still use 100% infill? Or do you think 50% would be able to withstand the vacuum force?
Hi Jared. The vacuum is our friends as it encourages to metal to flow into every nook and cranny. Infill is really something to worry about if you want to keep a PLA item nice and strong. Once it melts, there's no infill, just 100% metal.
I'm still experimenting but as far as I'm aware, there's no difference between 100% infill and 0 infill with this technique. As long as plenty of time is given for the PLA to melt, drain away and burn out any residue. This leaves the void for the metal to fill and that's the part we really want.
With that said, logically I would say you want as little PLA there as possible... the less there is to melt and burn, the more likely your success will be.
So my advice, print to the minimum infill you can get away with. If it flexes and bends, you may need a little more infill, but if it holds up the moderate handling, it will survive the plaster vacuum stage and melt away nicely for you : )
@@vogman Thank you for the quick reply!! I'm getting a 3D printer and plan to build my forge soon. Love your videos. Super helpful.
Thanks Jared : )
Can detailed ring stl files be printed in pla?
Personally I don't think so. I moved from FDM printing to resin printing because I was blown away by the quality difference 😁
ausome also can you reuse plaster?
No my friend. That's where the word "investment" comes from. You sacrifice the cost of the plaster to achieve the casting... so you "invest" it. It's a damn shame though as it's the most expensive part of this process : )
My printer gets here tomorrow. whoopee!
Nice one Thomas : )
pour molten metal then vacuum again. how is this 2nd vacuum done?
Hi Dylan. It's done using the same vacuum chamber I built - but using it slightly differently. Here's the video where I figured this out - ruclips.net/video/EGNnH_xbjR4/видео.html
Just out of curiosity what would you charge to print and cast something for me out of aluminum if I sent you the stl file? Its pretty small.
You have to appreciate I get a lot of people writing to me asking if I’ll print and cast things for them, so many in fact that I could never keep up. So when I get asked, I’ll be honest, most of the time the answer is ‘no’ simply because I don’t have the time or the resources. BUT do ask... let me know what it is you’d like casting. IF your idea sparks interest in me, I may try and find the time.
BUT you must appreciate I can’t make any promises. I do what I do for the fun of it... if it starts to feel like work, well, that takes all the fun of of it for me.
If you want to contact me privately, you can do so here: www.vegoilguy.co.uk/contact_me.php
@@vogman I appreciate your response and I completely understand. My goal is to eventually do this myself when I finally get the time. I have all the supplies to build a foundry just sitting in my shop and an almost endless supply of aluminum scraps(I work in a machine shop) Work seems to get in the way of life lol.
No worries my friend. There's a far greater sense of satisfaction when you make things yourself.
But with that said, you can ask, honestly, but just don't be disappointed if I say know : )
Hello,
What is the temperature to burn the PLA?
Just go with the recommended burnout for the plaster : )
How to prevent pinhole defects for bronze casting?
Could be the metal is too hot...?
Can I use my foundry to melt the pla and harden the plaster? Or is that temperature too much?
An oven is better.... you need the slow and steady control of the heat.
@@vogman I see, thanks
Will greensand work instead of plaster
Not for investment casting, no.
What temperature is necessary for your burnout? Im curious since you stated aa cooking oven isnt up to the task.
A kitchen oven would easily burn out the PLA, which around 250C would do. But the plaster has to be taken all the way to 720C to properly prepare it for casting : )
@@vogman gotchya. Thanks for the response. I have been playing around with the whole process past couple of weeks. I am almost ready to get serious about it. I have been having issues with my plaster holding up to the pour. I thought i was allowing enough time and heat to completely dry out my molds. With so many variables I was about to write it off to something else in my evolving, temporary set up. I will definitely crank the heat towards the end of its cycle and see. Thanks again. Love your videos vegdude
No worries. It's a fiddly process to play with... you really need to follow the rules. You need a good plaster and you need to look up the burnout process for THAT plaster as they can differ : )
You could try a Vacuum cleaner 😉
howdy! is your casting tree available on thingiverse? i noticed the celtic knot (thanks for that) i would love to see a professionally made one before i start again (most likely with failure)
Hi Jason, yes, I think I've got a couple of sprue systems on Thingiverse. Just search for vegoilguy and they'll come up : )
@@vogman awesome thanks bro!!
Hey VegOilGuy!
Why you use colored plastic? I mostly buy plastic pools, that are made during the color changing process. They are mostly uncolored, kinda raw pla, but can have a bit of color, and cheaper then colored ones from the same type of pla. I would think the lost PLA method would work better without extra coloring, and cheaper too.
Nice suggestion : D
How do you Burnout the PLA?
The PLA is encased in investment plaster and then placed into a hot oven for several hours. The PLA melts away and its shape is left in the plaster : )
What 3D printer do you use?
Hi Nick. I use a Creality CR10S. I'm pleased with it.
you can use a fridge motor for vaccum
Thanks for sharing : )
How to you deal with shrinkage?
As a general rule, I guestimate 1%. It's normally pretty spot on 😁
@@vogman ok cool thank you very much for replying
What's your burnout schedule?
Look for the graph Adam. It shows the stages and schedule : )
Can you cast steel
It's not something I've personally done but I'm aware it is possible : )
@@vogman thanks for the answer
👍 👁 👍
I’ve wanted to get into metal casting for quite some years, but the investment just seems too much
Maybe one day
It is an expensive hobby - but so many hobbies are. I've also tried to reduce costs where I can to help inspire others : )
Why can't you melt out the plastic instead of burning it out, so you can recycle it?
And I know some people are going to comment "it doesn't matter" or "it's not worth it" that's not the question. I have my own PLA and other plastics recycling systems and a filament extruder and I make my own 3D filament
The question is WHY because i want to understand the reason why people aren't melting it out at 200 degrees C instead
If you CAN recycle the PLA, then yes it can be done : )
I know with wax I recycle. I tend to place a container beneath the flask and heat moderately. As the wax melts it drips into the container which I then remove, filter and reuse.
If you heat to 250C you could certainly recover the PLA in the same way, though personally I have no idea how you'd reuse it : )
(1) Reusing PLA by making new wire is still not up to most people's standard of PLA wire. Usually dimensional/roundness issues. This is with freshly printed chips.
(2) How do you filter out the micrometer sized plaster dust? That stuff will ruin a nozzle real quick by acting like sand-paper and also clogging it up.
I use the PLA for the master models and use wax for burnout.
@@jhsevs can you make a video of making filament from recycled PLA? Would you need to add new softeners that evaporate during the melting process? Perhaps if more people could learn your way of recycling filament, they would melt out the bulk before burning out the left overs that are caught in corners or capilary details...
I'm sure as the technique finds a wider application and popularity, more main stream solutions will appear. I don't think there are any reasons not to recycle other than cost efficiency or manufacturing restriction due to requirements of the plaster curing process (lower temperature requires longer heating cycle, also depending on the prescribed baking cycles of the plaster it might be tricky to interrupt the process to remove the recovered PLA before raising the temperature. All things that may increase the cost of the process and will increase the time spent)
@@jhsevs I just set up a garbage disposal to grind failed prints for recycling, please take a look and I'd like your opinion on the method. ruclips.net/video/rrGHxHEwGcs/видео.html
1:31 are u a university of kentucky fan
How shit will it look without a vacuum chamber?
You can see for yourself. Look at my early day experiments with lost wax casting... I never really got it right until I made my own cheap vacuum system - ruclips.net/p/PLOzaysTbaKi6jcKZyiLBV_i42_6SgkRe8
Do you have a hermit craft channel?🤔
Hi Rick... not so much hermitcraft, but I did make a very small minecraft channel a few years ago...
ruclips.net/channel/UCwhuuI_QUmcQO4DbzpTiwSg
I live in Kentucky go wild cats.
I hope you saw this one then David ruclips.net/video/KBqDQv5ybVY/видео.html
: )
@@vogman cool my wife friends with some of the administrative personnel at the university do you care if I share it on Facebook?
By all means. Thanks for sharing : )