I'm exploring the net for days now, there is lots of talks how you can make your own jewelry with those printers, but nobody is actually casting metal. you are the first (that I found) that show in great details, how it's actually don, in real life. Thanks! I wish you'll have a jewelry store in every airport in the world.
"Very sophisticated mixing equipment". LOL. I love it. Bravo on the 3d prints. I tested that material at a very large jewelry manufacturer and it worked flawlessly. However, their commercial printers had to be used with a proprietary resin so there was no way to switch to this burgundy stuff.
Nice video. I saw some slight water trail, on your casting. Not sure if you tap your flask on the side after you pour and vacuum your flask. It helps with that for some reason. On the green stone setting, in a situation like that, I would suggest you use a beading tool as a prong pusher, instead of pliers. One more tip, finish out the ring completely before setting the stones, then go back and do touch ups. Great work, enjoying your videos. I have been a professional jeweler for 37 years now.
Oh now that is smart here I was thinking I’d start with one and you are making a casting tree. I have so much to learn. I need to go to school or do you think I could build all the skills I need myself?
If school is an option then definitely go that route. It's possible to teach yourself and learn from the internet, but going through proper training would save you a lot of trial and error.
thank you so much for the video! I have a question, do you know how much the models gets smaller in the process? I have heard that the final piece is about 6% smaller. I would like to scale some jewelry pieces before printing them, specially to avoid problems when setting the stones! Thank you!
In my experience I've found that the final piece cast in metal only shrinks by about 1% compared to the original resin print. This might be higher if you make a mold of the piece first and cast in wax though.
Thank you for the details shared in this video Nic! I'm a jeweller and only hand make. But I want to start 3D printing and casting. Do you have any advice or information regarding a good affordable 3D printer for beginners? I'm currently keen on the Phrozen Shuffle 4k. Any thoughts on that machine please?
@@SterlingKisses Thank you very much for the feedback! I really appreciate you taking the time to reply! Since my previous comment I thought that maybe a cheaper option would be good to start out with, and have settled on the Elegoo printers. Do you have any comments or advice for me, please, on these machines?
@@dustysanders2790 The more affordable printers like the Elegoo Mars for example will still work well enough for jewelry, but if your piece has fine details they won't be as sharp looking. Still a good entry level machine though.
Boric Acid is added to the distilled water used for mixing investment. It strengthens the investment mixture so the resin is less likely to damage the investment during burnout. Please watch from 1:57 and let me know if you have any other questions.
5:28 how to fix that yellow stone without using prongs? Would you glue that in? Do you have a video showing how to set gem stones without using prongs? How is that stone setting of the yellow stone called?
The stone is bezel set. Surrounding metal is pushed over the stone to secure it in place. An example can be found in my Gold Skull Dice video. ruclips.net/video/C4EnXIiqy0U/видео.html
Hello , what a nice job , I am trying right now to print some rings with the same Resin but I couldn’t get the right calibers until yet could you tell me what are the right calibers for this resin , btw I am using the Photon Mono X 3d Printer Best regards
The last time I used this resin was on a DLP Printer so your settings might need some tuning: Bottom Layer: 33 sec. Normal Exposure time 5 sec at .03mm layer height.
@@SterlingKisses wow i have a esun casteable resin , and need to use 60 sec bottom layer, I think is too much but i have acceptable results. In argentina your resin doesnt exist for buy it
Hi, congratulations for the video. Do you have a reason to put the printed pieces in a container with glycerin when they are under UV light? Usually the pieces are washed and then put dry under the light. Greetings from Italy.
@@SterlingKisses i think I found the answer myself. Seeing other videos on 3d jewelry prints, the use of glycerin under UV light is due to the specifications of the castable resin that is used. For the oxygen-free environment, this part only covers the procedure for the lost wax technique. It is used to remove the air bubbles which would then ruin the creation of the jewel.
Great Video! What is your burnout cycle? Im upgrading from an old (non-digital) pro-craft kiln. I’m going to be using a paragon kiln with a controller to program
Thanks for watching! Here is my schedule: Place flasks in 300f preheated kiln. Hold 3 Hours; Ramp @ 1680f per hour to 700f. Hold 1 hour; Ramp @ 1680f per hour to 1350f. Hold 4 hours; Full ramp down to casting temp. Final Hold 1 to 2 hours based on flask size.
Hello. I am from Brazil, would you like to know what you have added to the investment water? Was it Borax? What is the functionality of this product added to the coating water?
I'm not sure of the exact science behind it, but prints that require curing under UV light get a more complete cure in an oxygen free environment. If your resin does not require curing than you should skip this step.
Prongs are cut to shape and bent over the gemstone. Some other methods of stone setting can be found in this video. ruclips.net/video/C4EnXIiqy0U/видео.html
@@SterlingKisses reallly.... that's interesting. Is that just this resin, or is that true of all resins? You could make the argument that it is oxygen free when in the printer being printed, so that would kinda make sense.
Great video!!!!....How thick is the investment powder/mould? Which machine did you use for casting , moulding and heating the metal? And which resin and 3d printer did you use? I 3d printed some jewelry but when i casted the model it didnt turn out well and it broke? So just wondering if you have any tips??
My flasks are 3.5" tall by 2.5" in diameter to give you an idea of how much investment is in there. I use a vacuum pump and electromelt for casting. For this video I was using Resinworks brown material printed on an Asiga. I would need more detail to help you figure out what went wrong with your casting.
@@marcscheuer530 the vacuum is used to remove trapped air from the investment. The investment then hardens around the resin. The flask is then placed into a kiln and the resin is burnt out.
Hello, what do you mean by you add 1% depending on investment weight? also if you can give a more detailed equation for the ratio you used later on in the video. thank you so much in advance!
Hello. As an example, if I use 1200 grams of investment I would add 12 grams of boric acid. The Ransom & Randolph Investment website has an excellent calculator for determining water to powder ratios for different flask sizes.
Glass will block some forms of UV light. Not sure if it effects the type of UV light used for curing. Very good point! I'll have to research this more.
Just came off a video where someone else used PowerResin's WAX resin for lost-wax rather than burnout investment casting. Any opinions or thoughts on this vs that?
It seems the only major difference is that PowerResin Wax doesn't need to be post cured after printing. Could help to speed up workflow by eliminating that curing step and you don't need to worry about under curing a piece.
Bonjour pouvez vous me dire combien de borax vous ajouter par rapport au poids de plâtre, J'ai un gros problème d'état de surface sur mes fontes .merci
Can you shed some light on how to do this...i have this same resin and have been trying for over a year to get good results...im stumped and cant go to a school because its not feasible.
Here are a few ideas: After pouring your investment, let it bench dry for only 3 hours. Then place it into a preheated kiln for burnout. Try adding airflow into your kiln (if it's an electric kiln). Use a small aquarium air pump and direct the air through a metal tube into the base of the kiln (I had to drill into the door of my kiln to do this. Don't drill near the heating elements on the side of the kiln). Finally, try this quicker burnout cycle: Ramp 1465 to 300f. Hold 1 hour. Ramp 540 to 900f. hold 1 hour. Ramp 540 to 1382f. Hold 2h. Then full ramp down to casting temperature (1100f for light silver pieces). Hold for 1 hour then cast .
@@SterlingKisses oh, so you do remove some material at the end, OK. I am asking because those visible lines prove that resin/technique is capable of reproducing really small details, and is easy to work with - as opposed as one of the direct competitors, Bluecast OG or X10.
@@SterlingKisses It's not the cleaning that is the problem - as far as I know/tried Bluecast X10 practically requires primer to coat the build-plate (add. cost) and resin customizer (softenizer or hardenizer of sharpenizer, add. cost) so the whole process is over-complicated as opposed EasycastHD you reviewed here. I new to casting, so look at ruclips.net/video/w_vtrYIhXqE/видео.html + ruclips.net/video/WSHGFbB7QOw/видео.html (second part is important one). By the way - I just love your skull dice, the model is really awesome!
Excellent video. May I ask what are the printer settings for that particular castable resin. I got a sample and having trouble getting a decent print. Thanks
I don't think it will work on the anycubic photon. Easycast HD Brown is for DLP printers. The Photon is an LCD printer. You should try their Easycast HD Violet resin instead.
I don't want to teach you something,. I instead of using the pliers to close the prongs, I pushed the prongs close with an engraver, so I don't mark the piece with the pliers
I believe I used this burnout schedule, but the instructions that come with that bottle should work well too: Ramp 1465f per hour to 300f hold for 1 hour. Ramp 540f per hour to 900f hold 1hour. Ramp 540f per hour to 1382f hold 2h. Full ramp to casting temp and hold for 1 hour (or 2-3 hours for larger flasks) then cast.
The resin is actually burnt away, leaving a hollow impression in the investment. Metal is poured into this cavity, filling in where the resin once was.
Hearing someone saying aitch D rather than haitch D is like butter to my ears!!! I enjoyed that.
I'm exploring the net for days now, there is lots of talks how you can make your own jewelry with those printers, but nobody is actually casting metal.
you are the first (that I found) that show in great details, how it's actually don, in real life. Thanks! I wish you'll have a jewelry store in every airport in the world.
I'm happy you found my video! And you might have to keep a look out for a Sterling Kisses storefront at an airport near you soon!
A Keyblade!? Holy shit. I never realized how badly I wanted a sterling silver keyblade necklace until right now.. Genius.
Hey, long time fan of "Random Encounters" here, loving the new videos!
Wow! Thanks for being with me for so long! I'm glad you continue to enjoy the videos.
"Very sophisticated mixing equipment". LOL. I love it. Bravo on the 3d prints. I tested that material at a very large jewelry manufacturer and it worked flawlessly. However, their commercial printers had to be used with a proprietary resin so there was no way to switch to this burgundy stuff.
Those came out great! Very nice work 👍
Thanks a lot! And thanks for watching!
Nice video. I saw some slight water trail, on your casting. Not sure if you tap your flask on the side after you pour and vacuum your flask. It helps with that for some reason. On the green stone setting, in a situation like that, I would suggest you use a beading tool as a prong pusher, instead of pliers. One more tip, finish out the ring completely before setting the stones, then go back and do touch ups. Great work, enjoying your videos. I have been a professional jeweler for 37 years now.
Thanks! I just let the flask sit after vacuuming the investment. I'll have to try the tapping trick!
@@SterlingKisses best wishes!
Oh now that is smart here I was thinking I’d start with one and you are making a casting tree.
I have so much to learn.
I need to go to school or do you think I could build all the skills I need myself?
If school is an option then definitely go that route. It's possible to teach yourself and learn from the internet, but going through proper training would save you a lot of trial and error.
thank you so much for the video! I have a question, do you know how much the models gets smaller in the process? I have heard that the final piece is about 6% smaller. I would like to scale some jewelry pieces before printing them, specially to avoid problems when setting the stones!
Thank you!
In my experience I've found that the final piece cast in metal only shrinks by about 1% compared to the original resin print. This might be higher if you make a mold of the piece first and cast in wax though.
Hey, thanks for the video. What about leaving a link to buy it. Thanks!
just out of curiosity what did you use to set the stone in the bee? Thanks for the boric acid tip
I used a beading tool to push metal over the corners of the stone. A milgrain tool was also used to add detail to the bezel.
@@SterlingKisses thank you sir, I must have missed the prongs it was a lovely setting.
Thank you for the details shared in this video Nic! I'm a jeweller and only hand make. But I want to start 3D printing and casting. Do you have any advice or information regarding a good affordable 3D printer for beginners? I'm currently keen on the Phrozen Shuffle 4k. Any thoughts on that machine please?
I know of a few people that use the Phrozen Shuffle for jewelry. They get very nice results from it.
@@SterlingKisses Thank you very much for the feedback! I really appreciate you taking the time to reply! Since my previous comment I thought that maybe a cheaper option would be good to start out with, and have settled on the Elegoo printers.
Do you have any comments or advice for me, please, on these machines?
@@dustysanders2790 The more affordable printers like the Elegoo Mars for example will still work well enough for jewelry, but if your piece has fine details they won't be as sharp looking. Still a good entry level machine though.
@@SterlingKisses My Elegoo mars 2 pro seems to do VERY high detail. I'm gonna give it a try soon (on jewelry)
Could you explain more about the role of boric in the coating? Thanks
Boric Acid is added to the distilled water used for mixing investment. It strengthens the investment mixture so the resin is less likely to damage the investment during burnout. Please watch from 1:57 and let me know if you have any other questions.
5:28 how to fix that yellow stone without using prongs? Would you glue that in? Do you have a video showing how to set gem stones without using prongs? How is that stone setting of the yellow stone called?
The stone is bezel set. Surrounding metal is pushed over the stone to secure it in place. An example can be found in my Gold Skull Dice video. ruclips.net/video/C4EnXIiqy0U/видео.html
Hello , what a nice job , I am trying right now to print some rings with the same Resin but I couldn’t get the right calibers until yet could you tell me what are the right calibers for this resin , btw I am using the Photon Mono X 3d Printer
Best regards
The last time I used this resin was on a DLP Printer so your settings might need some tuning: Bottom Layer: 33 sec. Normal Exposure time 5 sec at .03mm layer height.
@@SterlingKisses wow i have a esun casteable resin , and need to use 60 sec bottom layer, I think is too much but i have acceptable results. In argentina your resin doesnt exist for buy it
Could you name the investment you are using to mix the boric acid?
Thanks
I use prestige optima.
@@SterlingKisses thanks 🙏
Hi, congratulations for the video.
Do you have a reason to put the printed pieces in a container with glycerin when they are under UV light?
Usually the pieces are washed and then put dry under the light.
Greetings from Italy.
I've heard that the prints cure more completely in an oxygen free environment. The better a print is cured the better it will burn out.
@@SterlingKisses i think I found the answer myself. Seeing other videos on 3d jewelry prints, the use of glycerin under UV light is due to the specifications of the castable resin that is used. For the oxygen-free environment, this part only covers the procedure for the lost wax technique. It is used to remove the air bubbles which would then ruin the creation of the jewel.
Great Video! What is your burnout cycle?
Im upgrading from an old (non-digital) pro-craft kiln. I’m going to be using a paragon kiln with a controller to program
Thanks for watching! Here is my schedule:
Place flasks in 300f preheated kiln. Hold 3 Hours; Ramp @ 1680f per hour to 700f. Hold 1 hour; Ramp @ 1680f per hour to 1350f. Hold 4 hours; Full ramp down to casting temp. Final Hold 1 to 2 hours based on flask size.
Hello. I am from Brazil, would you like to know what you have added to the investment water? Was it Borax? What is the functionality of this product added to the coating water?
It was Boric Acid. 1% of the investment's weight. It makes the investment harder.
Could you explain more about the role of boric in the coating? Thanks
@@jorgeemiliano2035 H₃BO₃. Makes gypsum hard
Question: why should u cure in Glyserine? some casting resins do not need curing at all. Does it influence the burnout? Love the quality of this one
I'm not sure of the exact science behind it, but prints that require curing under UV light get a more complete cure in an oxygen free environment. If your resin does not require curing than you should skip this step.
im trying to get into the custing world but i have some questions. How do you close the silver lapers after inserting the gem, do you heat it?
Prongs are cut to shape and bent over the gemstone. Some other methods of stone setting can be found in this video. ruclips.net/video/C4EnXIiqy0U/видео.html
What's the point of the glycerin in the UV curing chamber?
It's supposed to cure better in an oxygen free environment.
@@SterlingKisses reallly.... that's interesting. Is that just this resin, or is that true of all resins? You could make the argument that it is oxygen free when in the printer being printed, so that would kinda make sense.
Great video!!!!....How thick is the investment powder/mould? Which machine did you use for casting , moulding and heating the metal? And which resin and 3d printer did you use?
I 3d printed some jewelry but when i casted the model it didnt turn out well and it broke? So just wondering if you have any tips??
My flasks are 3.5" tall by 2.5" in diameter to give you an idea of how much investment is in there. I use a vacuum pump and electromelt for casting. For this video I was using Resinworks brown material printed on an Asiga. I would need more detail to help you figure out what went wrong with your casting.
@@SterlingKisses do you used the vacuum pump to get the air out of the plaster or to suck the resin out of the mold?
@@marcscheuer530 the vacuum is used to remove trapped air from the investment. The investment then hardens around the resin. The flask is then placed into a kiln and the resin is burnt out.
Does the 3d printer have to be the rasin type or other filaments can produce the quality prints?
Hello, what do you mean by you add 1% depending on investment weight? also if you can give a more detailed equation for the ratio you used later on in the video. thank you so much in advance!
Hello. As an example, if I use 1200 grams of investment I would add 12 grams of boric acid. The Ransom & Randolph Investment website has an excellent calculator for determining water to powder ratios for different flask sizes.
I thought glass blocks UV light. That means the glass bowl is blocking the light from curing it quickly
Glass will block some forms of UV light. Not sure if it effects the type of UV light used for curing. Very good point! I'll have to research this more.
Jez, go get a Curingstation. They´re about 120$ from Anycubic and do their job realy well.
Just came off a video where someone else used PowerResin's WAX resin for lost-wax rather than burnout investment casting. Any opinions or thoughts on this vs that?
It seems the only major difference is that PowerResin Wax doesn't need to be post cured after printing. Could help to speed up workflow by eliminating that curing step and you don't need to worry about under curing a piece.
@@SterlingKisses fair enough then. Thanks for the feedback!
What is the weight of cad in DLP machine, while the weight does not come in DLP machine, what can be the reason for that
Thank you for the amazing video! May I ask what was the temperature of the melted silver? My silver casts always come out black..
I cast 925 sterling at 1100f for light pieces. 900f for heavier pieces. Hope this helps.
@@SterlingKisses Actually I'm asking about silver temperature, not the flask. Thank you!
@@dvalid Ah, sorry for misunderstanding. My silver temperature is 1800f
@@SterlingKisses Thanks a lot!
What kind of investment do you use
How mach temperature of palak and how many hour palak in burnout
Is glycerine just for this type of resin or can you use other regular resin with glycerine?
I've used glycerine to help cure other castable resins. I don't think it would hurt regular resins.
Can you please elaborate the process where you put the 3d printed pieces inside.
Where does the resin go?
It gets burned out in the kiln. Leaving a hollow mold he pour the silver into.
Bonjour pouvez vous me dire combien de borax vous ajouter par rapport au poids de plâtre,
J'ai un gros problème d'état de surface sur mes fontes .merci
1% Boric Acid to investment weight.
What is the total cost for the machines you need to do what you're doing here?
Could you make a video on gold plating too please
What program is used for jewelry design?
I use 3ds Max but a good one specifically for jewelry is Rhino. Blender is a good general cad software too and it's free.
Can you shed some light on how to do this...i have this same resin and have been trying for over a year to get good results...im stumped and cant go to a school because its not feasible.
Here are a few ideas: After pouring your investment, let it bench dry for only 3 hours. Then place it into a preheated kiln for burnout. Try adding airflow into your kiln (if it's an electric kiln). Use a small aquarium air pump and direct the air through a metal tube into the base of the kiln (I had to drill into the door of my kiln to do this. Don't drill near the heating elements on the side of the kiln). Finally, try this quicker burnout cycle: Ramp 1465 to 300f. Hold 1 hour. Ramp 540 to 900f. hold 1 hour. Ramp 540 to 1382f. Hold 2h. Then full ramp down to casting temperature (1100f for light silver pieces). Hold for 1 hour then cast
.
Hi, can you please tell us what kind of investment you used for this purpose?
I used Plasticast investment 38:100
Hi. How much cost all the equipment necessary to produce jewelry like that?
Around 20k to do it right and professionally
Look up online a company called Stuller. They carry all equipment needed in this video and the printer
Hello, everytime I cast my investment always cracks in the oven, what am I doing wrong.
How long are you letting your flasks sit for after investing? I usually wait 4 to 5 hours before they go into the kiln.
Layer lines are clearly visible @5:27 - is your printer capable of anti-aliasing ? Is it possible to remove such layers before polishing ?
Emery wheels work well to remove the lines before casting.
@@SterlingKisses oh, so you do remove some material at the end, OK.
I am asking because those visible lines prove that resin/technique is capable of reproducing really small details, and is easy to work with - as opposed as one of the direct competitors, Bluecast OG or X10.
@@cthulpiss I was thinking of getting some bluecast. Is it not possible to clean up grow lines with x10?
@@SterlingKisses It's not the cleaning that is the problem -
as far as I know/tried Bluecast X10 practically requires primer to coat the build-plate (add. cost) and resin customizer (softenizer or hardenizer of sharpenizer, add. cost) so the whole process is over-complicated as opposed EasycastHD you reviewed here.
I new to casting, so look at ruclips.net/video/w_vtrYIhXqE/видео.html + ruclips.net/video/WSHGFbB7QOw/видео.html (second part is important one).
By the way - I just love your skull dice, the model is really awesome!
Niiiiice!
Hello, I wonder what powder you add to gypsum water.
Boric acid
@@SterlingKisses thank you for your centlemen
How much gram mixed wather&boricacid
@@murtazadanyal1702 I add 1% of boric acid by investment weight.
@@SterlingKisses thank you for all
Amazing 🔑🗣
Gracias cómo La puedo comprar por favor
You can find a reseller on the ResinWorks3d website.
how resin get removed before meted silver casting?
The flasks are placed in a kiln for roughly 12 hours to burn out the resin. 3:15
Excellent video. May I ask what are the printer settings for that particular castable resin. I got a sample and having trouble getting a decent print. Thanks
Hello Derek, could you please email us at info@resinworks3d.com so that we can troubleshoot your problem.
how much time took for burnout in the oven
It's roughly an 8 hour burnout
@@SterlingKisses but sir if i use 3 hours in 1200c is it good option you think so ?
it was great ... it will be my honor if you like share our jewel making experience ...
i still have ashes on surface .. how can i solve it plz ?
Facing same problem
Which model 3d printer was used?
A first gen Asiga freeform pico
What kind of investment did you use?
Plasticast investment mixed at 38:100
I'm a jeweler and we need a
Perfect print with no lines at all
hello friend will serve this resin to be used in anycubic photon
I don't think it will work on the anycubic photon. Easycast HD Brown is for DLP printers. The Photon is an LCD printer. You should try their Easycast HD Violet resin instead.
@@SterlingKisses gracias ,espero tener mejor suerte con esta resina,he usado resinas castables solo la bluecast y no he tenido buenos resultados
what kind of glicerin do you use ,please link to buy if is possible
@@SterlingKisses anycubic photon is an DLP-lcd, printer ,well its read google,I mean, this resin can be used in my printer
Hi Can I ask are you plating silver or rhodium
I cast in 925 Sterling silver and only plate pieces that need to be two tone. 14kt yellow gold plating is used.
does the 3d printed resin gets melted inside?
yes, the resin burns clean out of the investment
Nice bro can you make amulet for me,my own design bro?how much you charge
It is valable to lcd pls ?
This resin works with lcd printers.
I don't want to teach you something,. I instead of using the pliers to close the prongs, I pushed the prongs close with an engraver, so I don't mark the piece with the pliers
Why did you use glycerin?
Some castable resins cure better in an oxygen free environment. New resins that are available now don't need this extra step.
@@SterlingKisses Ah ..Thank you.
That resin can use protonS printer
Resinworks Violet resin might be more appropriate for the Photon S.
Pls tell me the burnout timing
I believe I used this burnout schedule, but the instructions that come with that bottle should work well too: Ramp 1465f per hour to 300f hold for 1 hour. Ramp 540f per hour to 900f hold 1hour. Ramp 540f per hour to 1382f hold 2h. Full ramp to casting temp and hold for 1 hour (or 2-3 hours for larger flasks) then cast.
Wouldn't it have been easier to cut off the supports from the rings before curing the resin...
No, they are there to let the silver flow into the lower parts of the mold.
Naku e work nerpistara anna
What time
cure?
About an hour under UV light. Depends on your curing station and size of the piece though.
No ash vac this time?
Nope! No need for vents or vacuuming.
@@SterlingKisses excellent. I appreciate the video. Lots of good information on this and your other d pad video.
ตอง้เรียนใช้งานยังไง
Is there an email where i can contact you?
I have a question
What 3d program do you use in making those?
How does the resin turn into metal...sorry for the dumb question but I don’t get it
The resin is actually burnt away, leaving a hollow impression in the investment. Metal is poured into this cavity, filling in where the resin once was.
Google lost wax casting
Pff easy for you.. anyone could do it with fancy mixing equipment like that...
+
Way too expensive. It costs almost as the silver jtsel.
Everybody can see the lines, 3D printing is far ftom perfect, maybe 10 to 20 years its just a new technology.