360x360 is great. It’s the size of the usable part of the regular honeycomb work area since the FRAME around the honeycomb is no bueno for cutting anyway.
Nice work, sir! Great video! My 20W should be here Saturday so this will help me get going right away and avoid the problems mentioned in your first video. Yup. 7 3D printers and 2 Lasers, Z1 and OMTech K40… LOL, Thanks.
I got to sleep with a, artificial version of a thunderstorm. Love it. Very soothing. Love the Redneck Engineering. I’m a SW/HW Engineer by Profession, 37 years. Adopted AL Redneck Engineer talking… so 🎉👍
Sorry Dave was wondering going to be ordering this machine an hope they have fixed the limit switch problems but love this video helped clear up alot of foggy $%$& in my mind an now feel confident this will be a great machine
i have Z1 and wanted the 20 watt. This helps my decision. Will get it and do the things you showed. I do not need workspace more than 200x 200 so this will work out well for me
@@TheClackShack Got it and it wont work . Customer service said they do not recommend putting it on a 5-10 watt laser assembly . Yet, the description has my very laser as one to put it on. I may just be out $200 because it will not work on my Z1.
This is a excellent video! It's funny, because I had almost the same idea as you did, but I I don't have a 20w module to test it on... Yet... The only difference in my idea was for the X axis, that hole you put the screw in for the block of wood.. I think it's threaded, so I was going to put a bolt in there with a fender washer to act as the stop for the limit switch. But the block of wood works too! While trying to figure out the limit switch issue, I also came up with an idea of how to extend the Z1 fairly easily. If I am able to make it work, I can give you the details if you want. Merry Christmas!
Interesting. Coming from building a lot of 3d printers, this dual motor y axis not having dual switches and independent y motor channels means the left and right side can get out of time with each other. Basically the x gantry could get skewed. The solution in 3d printers is to locate the y1 and y2 to a know good location and then home to the limit switch. So pushing the gantry all the way to the rear, assuming it stops at a point that makes it square would ensure that. Then home to the switch in front to get you y0 location. That's part of the reason I haven't added limit switches to my DIY open frame Neje e40 rig. I considered a drive shaft going completely across from left to right and a single motor but felt like it added more complexity.
Love my Z1. Really appreciate your Videos. I've learned a lot from you and have purchased from your Etsy store. Looking forward to fitting this 20w upgrade into my budget. Have you ever found a way to extend the Z1 frame for a larger work area?
Quick question.. On the Comgrow 20w laser, how do you clean the lens cover glass? I just got mine and it's not apparent to me how to get the air assist nozzle off to clean the laser cover lens
Hey there, I was wondering if I can use the Laser with a Lightburn camera without limit Switches enabled? I basically only use lightburn camera so I don't really need absolute coordinates per se, except if thats a requirement for lightburn camera to work. Appreciate the help!
@@TheClackShackI ended up doing it your way as going by position of the Module would Not Work for me. I also couldnt get that to Work with the camera which is a Feature I wouldn't wanna Miss. Ended Up losing a Bit more im Y direction (355mm) but I did Not need such a thick piece of Wood on the x Axis, so I got to 370mm. Sounds pretty OK to me. Thanks for the Help!
This is great! I am all about the limit switches as well. I am always about redneck fixes if that's what it takes. Nothing wrong with that at all and hope Comgrow gets this updated for it's customers. I would love to be one of those customers but can't afford that 20w laser. I have had lots of fun with my xTool D1 and love watching what you are working on in the Shack! Thanks
Thankx for putting these vidz together helps alot Brotha,CHEERS can't wait til the Beast has his final home 🙌
No problem
360x360 is great. It’s the size of the usable part of the regular honeycomb work area since the FRAME around the honeycomb is no bueno for cutting anyway.
Very true!
Nice work, sir! Great video! My 20W should be here Saturday so this will help me get going right away and avoid the problems mentioned in your first video. Yup. 7 3D printers and 2 Lasers, Z1 and OMTech K40… LOL, Thanks.
Glad to help
I got to sleep with a, artificial version of a thunderstorm. Love it. Very soothing.
Love the Redneck Engineering. I’m a SW/HW Engineer by Profession, 37 years. Adopted AL Redneck Engineer talking… so 🎉👍
Very cool!
Thank you for this. Helped me set up my laser module and working great.
Very welcome
Sorry Dave was wondering going to be ordering this machine an hope they have fixed the limit switch problems but love this video helped clear up alot of foggy $%$& in my mind an now feel confident this will be a great machine
Thanks 👍
I’m gonna 3D print what’s needed based on this video for my 20W owner friends on the Comgrow Z1 FB group.
Cool
Dude you are amazing!!! I have been banging my head for a couple of days
I’m glad I could help!
i have Z1 and wanted the 20 watt. This helps my decision. Will get it and do the things you showed. I do not need workspace more than 200x 200 so this will work out well for me
Good deal
@@TheClackShack Got it and it wont work . Customer service said they do not recommend putting it on a 5-10 watt laser assembly . Yet, the description has my very laser as one to put it on. I may just be out $200 because it will not work on my Z1.
Nice easy fix Clack!!
Thanks
This is a excellent video! It's funny, because I had almost the same idea as you did, but I I don't have a 20w module to test it on... Yet... The only difference in my idea was for the X axis, that hole you put the screw in for the block of wood.. I think it's threaded, so I was going to put a bolt in there with a fender washer to act as the stop for the limit switch. But the block of wood works too! While trying to figure out the limit switch issue, I also came up with an idea of how to extend the Z1 fairly easily. If I am able to make it work, I can give you the details if you want. Merry Christmas!
Cool, I wanted to make a new mount out of acrylic for the switch but the block was just easier…
Did you ever get the Z1 extension to work?
Interesting. Coming from building a lot of 3d printers, this dual motor y axis not having dual switches and independent y motor channels means the left and right side can get out of time with each other. Basically the x gantry could get skewed. The solution in 3d printers is to locate the y1 and y2 to a know good location and then home to the limit switch. So pushing the gantry all the way to the rear, assuming it stops at a point that makes it square would ensure that. Then home to the switch in front to get you y0 location. That's part of the reason I haven't added limit switches to my DIY open frame Neje e40 rig. I considered a drive shaft going completely across from left to right and a single motor but felt like it added more complexity.
It uses fixed belts on both sides to mitigate the issue. As long as they are in time, it seems to work well. The limit switch deactivates both motors.
I knew that you could do it!
Yea, just tried to find the simplest approach.
Love my Z1. Really appreciate your Videos. I've learned a lot from you and have purchased from your Etsy store. Looking forward to fitting this 20w upgrade into my budget. Have you ever found a way to extend the Z1 frame for a larger work area?
It could be done but I did not. I have several different machines
Quick question.. On the Comgrow 20w laser, how do you clean the lens cover glass? I just got mine and it's not apparent to me how to get the air assist nozzle off to clean the laser cover lens
Unscrew the air line from the module them the cone tip just pops off. Lens is then exposed
Hey there,
I was wondering if I can use the Laser with a Lightburn camera without limit Switches enabled? I basically only use lightburn camera so I don't really need absolute coordinates per se, except if thats a requirement for lightburn camera to work.
Appreciate the help!
Switches aren't required but do help.
@@TheClackShackI ended up doing it your way as going by position of the Module would Not Work for me. I also couldnt get that to Work with the camera which is a Feature I wouldn't wanna Miss. Ended Up losing a Bit more im Y direction (355mm) but I did Not need such a thick piece of Wood on the x Axis, so I got to 370mm. Sounds pretty OK to me. Thanks for the Help!
Ive tried every wire theyve gave me with the z1 an the 20watt module
It has been a while since I did it
Should have a harness
A focus screw KNOB would be good too instead of the screw that it shows in their video that this comes with.
It has a lever similar to Xtool
What about wiring cause that's where I'm stuck
Trying to figure out how to connect everything so can use 20watt on the z1 frame can't figure out what wires go where to make it work
Mine had its own wiring harness and power supply.
Oh that homing speed $25 is SLOW! I set mine to $25=10000. Faster.
Stock settings
The wiring hook up is confusing me man
Follow the book closely
This is great! I am all about the limit switches as well. I am always about redneck fixes if that's what it takes. Nothing wrong with that at all and hope Comgrow gets this updated for it's customers. I would love to be one of those customers but can't afford that 20w laser. I have had lots of fun with my xTool D1 and love watching what you are working on in the Shack! Thanks
Thanks for watching. I like testing them out and helping make sure they work for us makers...
Share and Share alike, my AL, Redneck friend…🎉 ideas are meant to be shared!
Thanks