like if you have real trouble fitting something into a car or a box or something, when you finally manage to get it to fit, the dad is obliged to say "like it was made for it!", "like a glove!" or "with room for a spare!"
No, I believe that law only applies definitively, if your son is standing a few meters away and looking nervously as if the anvil is suddenly going to jump sideways and land on his feet.
@@moparlarsson yeah, his english is damn perfect with very very little accent, which is totally lovely and interesting, i myself talk like a mexican jejeje
@@torbjornahman Not true. Your voice is quite unique and suits you. Also your pronunciation of the English word is very good. Stay the way you are. That is what we like about you.
Great video! While it strays from your usual "ASMR"/"Silent" style, I really do enjoy listening to someone tell a story about their tools - it almost felt like a mini-mini documentary about this anvil.
I feel that Torbjörn has the balance perfected. Mostly “asmr” but with a sprinkling of spoken content. Being an arborist, I am also a huge fan of the mini garden adventures.
That's a really nice anvil that can and should be handed down from generation to generation! Thank you for taking time to film, edit, and post this video.
It lived far past the life of the economy that supported it. Tough to make tools for trades that no longer exist at the level that demanded such tools. You can still buy a brand new farrier’s anvil though as a counter example.
@@torbjornahman Aren’t they still talking about MAYBE trying to restart the company? Or it might just be dreams that have been posted online... fingers crossed, cause I’d love to have a brand new one from them. A nice little 100kg A1 or A4
Honestly mate, you speak better English than the locals here haha, love the accent, love the history, especially how to pronounce words in swedish, reminds me of The Post Apocalyptic Inventor explaining how to pronounce names in German :) Thank you for coming out of your comfort zone to teach all of us a thing or two, and loved those old photos!! Even Swedish factories had beautiful architecture :) Cheers!
You Swedes has a long and proud tradition of making machines, engines and other industrial equipment of good quality, just like your anvil. And you are a good representative to bring this tradition further👍👍
On the subject of forge scale, there actually is (was) a use for. I used to volunteer in the forge of the Batavialand historic ship wharf (Dutch museum where they are building ships using historic techniques) and one of the researches found a piece of text regarding using forge scale to make the wood more durable. No idea exactly how it was used as I left to go work somewhere else, but we were asked to keep the forge scale (at least the "clean" bits from the anvil, not from the floor) separate so they could be used to treat the wood with.
Hello Mr fabulous. regarding Batavialand historic ship wharf, I just moved to Leeuwarden and desparate to start blacksmithing again (my previous workshop is in UK). Do you by ANY CHANCE do of any blacksmithing workshops or know of any blacksmiths in Friesland or nearby? I know its a long shot but thought i would ask in case! thanks!
A friend wanted our scale for home made linseed paint. Basically her process was wash it. While suspended in fluid magneticly separate it from dirt (or whatever wont stick to a magnet). Dried into cupcakes pan then ground to powder in a rock tumbler. From there mixed into her secret blend of oils.
Always a fan! As someone who did some very minor smithing when I was younger in a rural area, but now lives in an area too urban to allow it, your videos always give me a peek inside what might have been.
Re: repurposing scale - a potter who lives near me has asked that I save the scale for him to use in the making of custom glazes. Evidently iron oxide creates some interesting colors when blended with other glaze compounds. That seems like dark alchemy to me, but I’ll share a picture if he is successful. Always enjoy seeing the activities in your shop and homestead. Have a wonderful summer!!
@@torbjornahman My wife is an art teacher and she has a potters wheel and kiln at home in her workshop. She would love maybe 0.5kg of your scale to grind up and use with glazes. Please let me know if you would be willing to sell some.
Don't be scared of talking to us. I like listening to you! In the beginning of the video I thought that you would carve out a recess to put the anvil in and maybe fill it with a damping medium of some sort, so that it would be soundproofed from the sides as well.
My parents used linseed oil for a lot of things. When I see you use it, I am often reminded of them. You did a great job in reducing the noise of that anvil. Also, your command of the English language is very good. I wish there was more incentive for people in the US to learn and use multiple languages.
To quell the last bit of ring, inexpensively, and easily, you might try sticking welding magnets on the underside of the horn, and the tail. I couldn't believe the difference it made on my cheap little anvil. Nice piece, Mountain Bear!
My friend’s dad back in my hometown uses steel chains hanging down and around his anvil to reduce the “ringingness” of it. Might come useful. Much love from Russia! Thank you for your great videos!
Black Bear Forge got his anvil dead quiet, I was surprised how well it turned out. Yours turned out very similar. He has his anvil pedestal buried in the ground also which helps, however doing that stops you from ever easily moving it. Isolating the wooden block from the floor with rubber will also reduce the resonance as well. You could experiment with an old piece if rubber backed carpet.
The two ways to make things quiet are isolation and adding mass. You probably aren’t going to make the anvil heavier, but making the whole thing stiffer transfers more vibration into the floor which is like adding mass. But the wooden pedestal isn’t super stiff and only some frequencies are going through to the floor. So you can try to make the pedestal even stiffer and really fix it to the floor or (probably better) isolate the pedestal with sound deadening material. Could be as simple as putting the existing pedestal on a layer of sand in a sandbox. Wet or oily sand may work better. Or you could make something more serious by sandwiching mass loaded vinyl between sheets of plywood. Finally consider that the sound is echoing around the room, reflecting off surfaces, especially the flat concrete floor. You want it to be absorbed, not reflect off surfaces. Adding floor grating might help break up the reflected noise.
This anvil is an art piece. If I had one of these, I'd sleep in the workshop. It is quite hard to see anvils here, let alone a Kohlswa, wich I've seen just once, and man, it feels like they are calling you to hammer some hot steel on them
May I suggest: When creating a silicone-bed, it may be advantageous to place temporary wedges or shims under the anvil while the silicone is curing. This guarantees a certain minimum thickness of the rubber. In your case, the weight of the anvil probably squeezed away most of the silicone into the wood-gaps, making the silicone layer extremely thin. Then you have a hard-on-hard contact (steel on wood) and that would limit the sound-deadening effect from the rubber. Of course, once the silicone has cured, the wedges or shims must be removed, otherwise you still have hard-on-hard(-on-hard) contact via the shims.
@@torbjornahman I would agree if the damping is almost entirely derived from the wood. If you are using the "loss tangent" of the rubber as an energy-absorption/dissipation mechanism, then a (controlled) thick-layer would be beneficial.
It was a two part epoxy resin he dyed black. Would work great to deaden the ring but that anvil is there forever now! Like was mentioned above, one hot bit of metal would melt it and smoke up real bad, too.
@@johnnywoodbine9092 I think this is a theoretical question that might need to be addressed by some engineering students. I've been a blacksmith for well over a decade. I have tried solid mounting (anvil directly to solid stump), rubber mat, and silicone adhesive, and everything in between. Anything and everything to take the high frequency ring out of the equation. The silicone is the most effective to date. I have not found it to reduce the hammer's return. The rubber mat was actually the worst in that regard. Here's the point, when you're forging hot steel, you are deforming it, you are putting energy into changing its shape. An anvil may have a 995%+ return with a ball bearing but we don't hit the anvil with a hammer only. There is always something in the way that requires said energy to be deformed. I have had many close calls while forging and have missed or slightly missed the work piece and my hammer has returned violently and nearly hit my face. That experience dramatically demonstrates the energy that the hot steel steals. Sorry for the long rambling reply.
@@glennwiebe5128 From a purely theoretical perspective, rubber should (and I'm glad you're agreeing) be the worst. I should add I have next to no forging experience, but at one time I was one of those engineering students you speak of. With anything soft and elastically deformable between the anvil and it's base, you effectively have a sprung object, like a car. Much like with cars, if you increase the stiffness of the springs, or if you reduce the length of the springs, you reduce the travel after a given impact or load is applied. Using in this case what is now probably 1-2mm of silicone at the thickest, is a fairly short travel spring, and so will allow the anvil to move far less. In this way a thin layer of silicone is like a track car, and a thick rubber mat is like a trophy truck. They both absorb some impact, but a very different amount. If your end goal is to get 100% return from a bearing drop test, you need 2 things. 1 - for the surface to fully resist any deformation, and 2 - for the anvil to resist movement after the impact. Number one you'd implement by buying a good anvil with a hard top surface. Number two you'd implement by having the heaviest anvil possible, or having it attached as securely as possible to the biggest heavy thing you can find (the earth). In an ideal, and completely unrealistic scenario, a very overengineered steel grillages cast into a lot of concrete would be best for this, but to have any sound deadening, you need to sacrifice a little bit of the energy input! TL:DR, sound deadening costs whacking efficiency.
Världens i särklass bästa svarvar kom från Köping, som då också borde vara dina hemtrakter. Jag har tre. S8-S10-S14. Finfint Svenskt stål. Skål från Småland,, 🍻😎👍!
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I liked the talking episode! You did great ;)
I believe you are required by Dad law to tap those straps and then say "That's not going anywhere"
yea, I'm familiar with this law 😂
like if you have real trouble fitting something into a car or a box or something, when you finally manage to get it to fit, the dad is obliged to say "like it was made for it!", "like a glove!" or "with room for a spare!"
No, I believe that law only applies definitively, if your son is standing a few meters away and looking nervously as if the anvil is suddenly going to jump sideways and land on his feet.
@@Gameboygenius na, it's definitely to be said every time you tighten a strap.
I liked hearing you talk! You have a fun to listen to accent to my American ears. But do whatever makes you comfortable I'll keep watching!
Let's hear your Swedish accent!
@@moparlarsson yeah, his english is damn perfect with very very little accent, which is totally lovely and interesting, i myself talk like a mexican jejeje
Forgot to mention, enjoyed hearing your voice. Your “Swedish version “ of English is probably more accurate than my “Aussie version “ of it !!!
Too right cobber :)
Ha ha.... but your's is much cooler, mate! I wish I could speak like David Attenborough, then anything would be interesting to listen to. :)
@@torbjornahman Not true. Your voice is quite unique and suits you. Also your pronunciation of the English word is very good. Stay the way you are. That is what we like about you.
@@torbjornahman "Nordic English" have more color to it. Stay your way, please.
Scandinavians are often easier to understand in English than native English speakers. Australians? Not so much.
Great video! While it strays from your usual "ASMR"/"Silent" style, I really do enjoy listening to someone tell a story about their tools - it almost felt like a mini-mini documentary about this anvil.
I feel that Torbjörn has the balance perfected. Mostly “asmr” but with a sprinkling of spoken content. Being an arborist, I am also a huge fan of the mini garden adventures.
You have one heaven of an anvil there. That's a dream anvil of many blacksmiths, myself included. Congratulations.
That's a really nice anvil that can and should be handed down from generation to generation! Thank you for taking time to film, edit, and post this video.
The fact that the company went out of business after 4 and a half centuries is kinda saddening
Indeed! I have tried a bit to find out where all the patterns went, but haven't been able to find out more.
I get your point and agree, but to be fair, if any business makes it 450 yrs-the emotional response could easily be pride instead of sadness.
It lived far past the life of the economy that supported it. Tough to make tools for trades that no longer exist at the level that demanded such tools. You can still buy a brand new farrier’s anvil though as a counter example.
@@torbjornahman Aren’t they still talking about MAYBE trying to restart the company? Or it might just be dreams that have been posted online... fingers crossed, cause I’d love to have a brand new one from them. A nice little 100kg A1 or A4
@@Qrunch I'm not so sure... lets hope it's true!
Yes, extremely interesting! Perfect english too.
Thank you!
His English gets better and better in every video!
I only heard 3 slight mistakes which is WAY better than most Swedes who, in general, believe their English to be better than it actually is!
@@GregorShapiro Well,I'm a Brit living in Sweden and I would say that about a lot of Brits too.
Very interesting video. The story, old images of Swedish industry, ...
I like this "speaking format" very much.
Honestly mate, you speak better English than the locals here haha, love the accent, love the history, especially how to pronounce words in swedish, reminds me of The Post Apocalyptic Inventor explaining how to pronounce names in German :) Thank you for coming out of your comfort zone to teach all of us a thing or two, and loved those old photos!! Even Swedish factories had beautiful architecture :) Cheers!
You Swedes has a long and proud tradition of making machines, engines and other industrial equipment of good quality, just like your anvil. And you are a good representative to bring this tradition further👍👍
On the subject of forge scale, there actually is (was) a use for. I used to volunteer in the forge of the Batavialand historic ship wharf (Dutch museum where they are building ships using historic techniques) and one of the researches found a piece of text regarding using forge scale to make the wood more durable. No idea exactly how it was used as I left to go work somewhere else, but we were asked to keep the forge scale (at least the "clean" bits from the anvil, not from the floor) separate so they could be used to treat the wood with.
Hello Mr fabulous. regarding Batavialand historic ship wharf, I just moved to Leeuwarden and desparate to start blacksmithing again (my previous workshop is in UK). Do you by ANY CHANCE do of any blacksmithing workshops or know of any blacksmiths in Friesland or nearby? I know its a long shot but thought i would ask in case! thanks!
“Ironwood”, lol. We hav a species here in Ohio called Ironwood, as it sparks steel tools that cut it. High silica content.
You can also mix the scale with vinegar to make a stain for the wood.
A friend wanted our scale for home made linseed paint.
Basically her process was wash it.
While suspended in fluid magneticly separate it from dirt (or whatever wont stick to a magnet). Dried into cupcakes pan then ground to powder in a rock tumbler.
From there mixed into her secret blend of oils.
This is the first video I've heard this man's voice, and I was pleasantly surprised. Keep up the good work!
Always a fan! As someone who did some very minor smithing when I was younger in a rural area, but now lives in an area too urban to allow it, your videos always give me a peek inside what might have been.
Thanks!
Re: repurposing scale - a potter who lives near me has asked that I save the scale for him to use in the making of custom glazes. Evidently iron oxide creates some interesting colors when blended with other glaze compounds. That seems like dark alchemy to me, but I’ll share a picture if he is successful.
Always enjoy seeing the activities in your shop and homestead. Have a wonderful summer!!
Cool! Yes, you're right. I haven't thought about that. I guess you would have to grind it to powder then...
Pistachio trees love those scales; moist them and mix with soil and feed the tree around the root.
@@torbjornahman My wife is an art teacher and she has a potters wheel and kiln at home in her workshop.
She would love maybe 0.5kg of your scale to grind up and use with glazes.
Please let me know if you would be willing to sell some.
Check out Sculpt Nuveau's products. Good stuff.
@@thecorbies Nice! Send me a message on IG/FB or my web page!
Don't be scared of talking to us. I like listening to you!
In the beginning of the video I thought that you would carve out a recess to put the anvil in and maybe fill it with a damping medium of some sort, so that it would be soundproofed from the sides as well.
Thank you Torbjorn. I sincerely appreciate you sharing your work, skills and knowledge of this wonderful artform.
Greetings from Durban South Africa.
My parents used linseed oil for a lot of things. When I see you use it, I am often reminded of them.
You did a great job in reducing the noise of that anvil. Also, your command of the English language is very good. I wish there was more incentive for people in the US to learn and use multiple languages.
Thank you!
So true, but in usa we usually start in high school trying to learn other languages , way too late
To quell the last bit of ring, inexpensively, and easily, you might try sticking welding magnets on the underside of the horn, and the tail. I couldn't believe the difference it made on my cheap little anvil. Nice piece, Mountain Bear!
I have already tried that... doesn't work on my anvil for some reason.
This is the sexiest anvil on the internet - throughly researched.
I agree
I agree
I think so.
It is nice but I have to say I do like John's new one at Black Bear Forge! :-) I'm just envious as I don't have one of my own. Yet!
@@kirtodam6540 I think a double horn would be sweet.
My friend’s dad back in my hometown uses steel chains hanging down and around his anvil to reduce the “ringingness” of it. Might come useful.
Much love from Russia! Thank you for your great videos!
I have seen this too from a couple people. Glad someone else commented on it too.
Great to hear from you and appreciated the history.
It works for some, but not on this anvil... not sure why, maybe the size.
Black Bear Forge got his anvil dead quiet, I was surprised how well it turned out. Yours turned out very similar. He has his anvil pedestal buried in the ground also which helps, however doing that stops you from ever easily moving it. Isolating the wooden block from the floor with rubber will also reduce the resonance as well. You could experiment with an old piece if rubber backed carpet.
I saw that too
Yes he has the post buried and I think that would deaden the last bits here too... I will see if something under the wood helps!
The two ways to make things quiet are isolation and adding mass. You probably aren’t going to make the anvil heavier, but making the whole thing stiffer transfers more vibration into the floor which is like adding mass. But the wooden pedestal isn’t super stiff and only some frequencies are going through to the floor. So you can try to make the pedestal even stiffer and really fix it to the floor or (probably better) isolate the pedestal with sound deadening material. Could be as simple as putting the existing pedestal on a layer of sand in a sandbox. Wet or oily sand may work better. Or you could make something more serious by sandwiching mass loaded vinyl between sheets of plywood. Finally consider that the sound is echoing around the room, reflecting off surfaces, especially the flat concrete floor. You want it to be absorbed, not reflect off surfaces. Adding floor grating might help break up the reflected noise.
@@torbjornahman how about some rubber between the anvil and brackets?
@@marginatux No, I don't think that will do any good.
Your English is perfect my Swedish is like slag good for nothing . Stay safe happy trails.
:)
@@torbjornahman Your getting to intellectual with your answers Torbjon for this old fart of 78 who can barley type.
This anvil is an art piece. If I had one of these, I'd sleep in the workshop. It is quite hard to see anvils here, let alone a Kohlswa, wich I've seen just once, and man, it feels like they are calling you to hammer some hot steel on them
Kohlswa anvils are beautiful, such clean and crisp lines, really brings out the beauty of the London pattern. A real shame they're no longer produced
Beautiful kohlswa anvil! Soderfors and kohlswa are among the worlds best anvils. Nothing beats Swedish steel
Idag tog vi ett litet dopp i svensk metallurgihistoria. Det här är intressant! 👍
Anvil, the unsung hero of history
May I suggest:
When creating a silicone-bed, it may be advantageous to place temporary wedges or shims under the anvil while the silicone is curing. This guarantees a certain minimum thickness of the rubber. In your case, the weight of the anvil probably squeezed away most of the silicone into the wood-gaps, making the silicone layer extremely thin. Then you have a hard-on-hard contact (steel on wood) and that would limit the sound-deadening effect from the rubber.
Of course, once the silicone has cured, the wedges or shims must be removed, otherwise you still have hard-on-hard(-on-hard) contact via the shims.
I don't think you need a layer at all... just contact over the entire surface.
@@torbjornahman I would agree if the damping is almost entirely derived from the wood.
If you are using the "loss tangent" of the rubber as an energy-absorption/dissipation mechanism, then a (controlled) thick-layer would be beneficial.
Thunderbear's Forge Scale and Coke Dust Rub: For when you've got to have the look, but don't have the time.
Thought for sure you'd get one of those Scandinavian "World's Strongest Men" to come help move it for you. 💪
Like the late great Jon Paul siggmason
Magnus VonMagnuson?
@Charles Brainard I'm a Scotsman and don't know what your talking about lol
@Charles Brainard I know exactly what you mean lol
This is relaxing, like a Norse bob ross
RUclipsr AvE cast a base for his anvil in rubber, that should dampen the sound pretty good I think?
Until you drop red hot metal onto the rubber.
It was a two part epoxy resin he dyed black. Would work great to deaden the ring but that anvil is there forever now! Like was mentioned above, one hot bit of metal would melt it and smoke up real bad, too.
While it does kill the noise It also absorbs alot of the kinetic energy you want reflected back up through the anvil
@@johnnywoodbine9092 I think this is a theoretical question that might need to be addressed by some engineering students. I've been a blacksmith for well over a decade. I have tried solid mounting (anvil directly to solid stump), rubber mat, and silicone adhesive, and everything in between. Anything and everything to take the high frequency ring out of the equation. The silicone is the most effective to date. I have not found it to reduce the hammer's return. The rubber mat was actually the worst in that regard. Here's the point, when you're forging hot steel, you are deforming it, you are putting energy into changing its shape. An anvil may have a 995%+ return with a ball bearing but we don't hit the anvil with a hammer only. There is always something in the way that requires said energy to be deformed. I have had many close calls while forging and have missed or slightly missed the work piece and my hammer has returned violently and nearly hit my face. That experience dramatically demonstrates the energy that the hot steel steals.
Sorry for the long rambling reply.
@@glennwiebe5128 From a purely theoretical perspective, rubber should (and I'm glad you're agreeing) be the worst. I should add I have next to no forging experience, but at one time I was one of those engineering students you speak of. With anything soft and elastically deformable between the anvil and it's base, you effectively have a sprung object, like a car. Much like with cars, if you increase the stiffness of the springs, or if you reduce the length of the springs, you reduce the travel after a given impact or load is applied. Using in this case what is now probably 1-2mm of silicone at the thickest, is a fairly short travel spring, and so will allow the anvil to move far less. In this way a thin layer of silicone is like a track car, and a thick rubber mat is like a trophy truck. They both absorb some impact, but a very different amount.
If your end goal is to get 100% return from a bearing drop test, you need 2 things. 1 - for the surface to fully resist any deformation, and 2 - for the anvil to resist movement after the impact. Number one you'd implement by buying a good anvil with a hard top surface. Number two you'd implement by having the heaviest anvil possible, or having it attached as securely as possible to the biggest heavy thing you can find (the earth). In an ideal, and completely unrealistic scenario, a very overengineered steel grillages cast into a lot of concrete would be best for this, but to have any sound deadening, you need to sacrifice a little bit of the energy input!
TL:DR, sound deadening costs whacking efficiency.
Приятно смотреть за уходом инструмента....👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👋👋👋
Приветствую. Очень правильный подход! Наковальня это лицо кузнеца и должна стоять мертво и выглядеть идеально!!
Kolsva is not far from where I grew up. Every little town there was in some way part of the steel industry.
Världens i särklass bästa svarvar kom från Köping, som då också borde vara dina hemtrakter.
Jag har tre. S8-S10-S14. Finfint Svenskt stål.
Skål från Småland,, 🍻😎👍!
Svensk industrihistoria är fascinerade 👍🏻
Звенит так, что и сыграть можно запросто на ней..