Roy’s and John’s (black bear forge) channels are the 2 channels I go to for learning or any information. Maybe other good channels, but these two are the most informative and at a teaching level. Some information may be a little to descriptive for most of us. But maybe not for your average viewer or beginner. Great job Roy.
I just picked up the 88 lb. version of this for just over $2/lb. it is quite impressive, it will be replacing my waist of money 55 lb. from Harbor Freight. Thanks you Roy for everything that you do for the blacksmithing community, keep up the great work it is truly appreciated.
Man, I don't need a magnet to quiet my 66lb anvil now! I mounted as you suggested minus the silicone. I'm grateful for your videos. Keep up the good work.
If you use a piece of angle iron (with the toe a little taller than the foot of the anvil) in place of the flat bar, you will have a proper clip. This will move the downward force further inboard on the feet and look a lot more pleasing. I have been a Millwright 22 years .
I have that anvil. In fact I started blacksmithing about 4 months ago and had it anchored to my stand with metal straps. This made a world of difference. Thanks.
So, just for information’s sake, I bought the 110 lb version of this anvil and I just ended up drilling 1/2” mounting holes through the base/feet to attach it to my stump with lag bolts. On the plus side, I can 100% guarantee these anvils are steel by the drill shavings.
I have been watching John for a while, love his stuff. he likes to keep it simple and does a good job of saying why he's doing what you see him doing at the same time.
Saw a guy on RUclips use several small magnets for dampening. I have tried rubber, sand and springs. The Magnets worked amazing. I realize now the anvil is basically a bell.
Nice job on the mounting there Roy. I made up an anvil awhile back made from a railroad rail and that's how I mounted it up. Once I put on the silicone rubber under the mount and mounted the anvil up then it sounds as flat as your anvil that you just showed us all here. I believe the silicone rubber makes a big difference in the sound quality.
Good video ..... watched another anvil mount where as the base of the block was concaved out , this mod kept base wood from movement. Made wood base more stable.
that's a great set up you got there i am in the process of mounting a anvil a little smaller like yours. look forward to watching more of your videos. take care
I love what u do on here, im just starting out with my first forge and really need anything that will help me along. I want to start forging knives and axes also would be amazing
Hey Man I stumbled across your RUclips channel and love it. So many good hints tips and tricks. I I’m toying with the idea of buying a decent anvil instead of my cheap harbour freight one. But when I get my new one I am defently doing this.
Roy, I understand the Hardy hole for this anvil measures 18mm or .709 inches. Can you show us how to make hardy hole tools to fit it. Thanks & God Bless you guys! Really enjoy the videos and this series!
What I did on mine was router out the exact shape of the anvil so it sits down about a half an inch. I put lead mat under it, then bolted it down.routering out that hole makes a big difference. Thanks for the info., Roy who?
Ben Toombs I did similar. Routed out about 3/4, then placed cut to fit pieces of conveyor belt in the holes and the anvil on top. Haven’t bolted mine down yet, have a good size chain around it. Makes it easy for me to move for me when it’s separate from the base
I see that you have added and insert into your hardy hole. Did you resize the hole to the large anvil size of 1"x1" and put a sleve made from the tubing you used for hardy tool storage on the stump?
I have axes to 6'x6'' Oak beam's from pallets Rather than Pine wood that mite be harder wood do ya think that wood will work to Man That did cut the ring down I like that Thanks Bud
Goofy question incoming. Could I put that anvil upside down in an ice bath, weld a bunch of 16 penny nails in the void, close out the sides with 1/16th plate then fill the void with lead? Would the added mass do anything, such as quiet it even more and maybe influence the rebound characteristics?
I know a better option than the silicone. There are rolls of soft uncured rubber they sell at Home Depot that you put around the flange for installing windows. Clean the bottom of the anvil with acetone or something first and cut the rubber to fit with scissors. If you wanted the rubber thicker you can double it up. You could also use PVC cement as an activator if you wanted to bond it. As far as the price I think might be a little cheaper by a dollar or two for the rubber than the silicone. The last time I bought it I think it was about $8. They have 8in wide rolls and about 12 inch wide, depending on the size of your anvil. If you do metal roofs or know someone who does, they also use a similar product for sealing down the metal flashing. Most of the excess silicone squeezes out, but this rubber is not going to squeeze out. The silicone dries like rubber but it's not going to provide as much dampening effect as actual rubber. I used it for mounting a vise and I torqued it down really tight and it performed very well. It's thick enough to provide a great dampening effect but still thin enough to be very stable.
I am just starting out but wouldn't the silicone gives it a spring instead of using the wood itself as part of the mass of the anvil? my understanding is that you want the mass of the mount and anvil to be solid mass by being tight. Thanks for your great videos me and my son are just getting ready to set up our shop and start learning. We have learned a lot from your videos to help get started.
Hello Roy, I ordered anvil from your affiliate ebay link. My current anvil shape object is a piece of mild steel drop 12" x 8" x 2" at 65 pounds. Would there be an advantage of mounting my 66 pound anvil on top of my horizontal mounted 12" x 8" x 2" ASO ?
Ima beginner to so very interested in his answer. I'm betting if you secured them together really tight then mounted it as a unit to the stand...it's going to be a yes and be like a 130 lbs anvil. I asked a similar question pertaining to an upsetting block adding to the mass of the anvil. His answer was yes ONLY if the anvil is secure on top of the upsetting block. So that's why I theorize his answer will be yes. 🙏 Blessings to you now Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
@@therealamerican99.76 So I'm going to venture this. If it's the same anvil w the same hole in the feet.... I don't see why one couldn't drill the mild steel. Inserrt a bolt n tork it down pretty tight. Then if one wanted to weld it....given its done like welding the edges, heat the plate and foot up to around 200/250 f and weld it. As long as the heat didn't migrate more that 3/4 of way to top and face didn't get warm it should hold it's temper. Face cooling may be advisable in that situation. Not a welder but I've been around a bit. Probly wanna go at it cross corners for tacking it down then alternate running beads this side n that to prevent warping. That's all I know. Should be able to do it that way w o issues. As it won't be a true structure weld I'd say a 60 series like 6018 would be good choice for being a tough weld that could handle the vibration better than a 70 or 100 series rod that may creat a more brittle weld under vibration. Perhaps someone else would have more experienced information
Beware if you choose those links won’t help getting people to come in to look at products that will help your pocket. Do a little changing and don’t force awareness by wording like beware or do It Now. Or it’s your opportunity of a lifetime. Any who glad to sit down and learn some anvil knowledge. Thanks bud.
Learned a lot from your videos Roy but that was painful! Stick to blacksmithing Roy, putting fixings into timber is not your strong point. Please replace the bandsaw blade before you hurt yourself!
Roy’s and John’s (black bear forge) channels are the 2 channels I go to for learning or any information. Maybe other good channels, but these two are the most informative and at a teaching level. Some information may be a little to descriptive for most of us. But maybe not for your average viewer or beginner. Great job Roy.
I also watch Daniel moss, he has great content also
I just picked up the 88 lb. version of this for just over $2/lb. it is quite impressive, it will be replacing my waist of money 55 lb. from Harbor Freight. Thanks you Roy for everything that you do for the blacksmithing community, keep up the great work it is truly appreciated.
I just finished mounting my 30kg anvil using these instructions, and it's solid as a rock. Thanks so much for this!
Man, I don't need a magnet to quiet my 66lb anvil now! I mounted as you suggested minus the silicone. I'm grateful for your videos. Keep up the good work.
Hah, someone needs a new bandsaw blade I think. :)
Ordered the 110 lb anvil this morning cant wait to get off the rail track
If you use a piece of angle iron (with the toe a little taller than the foot of the anvil) in place of the flat bar, you will have a proper clip. This will move the downward force further inboard on the feet and look a lot more pleasing. I have been a Millwright 22 years .
I have that anvil. In fact I started blacksmithing about 4 months ago and had it anchored to my stand with metal straps. This made a world of difference. Thanks.
So, just for information’s sake, I bought the 110 lb version of this anvil and I just ended up drilling 1/2” mounting holes through the base/feet to attach it to my stump with lag bolts. On the plus side, I can 100% guarantee these anvils are steel by the drill shavings.
I have been watching John for a while, love his stuff. he likes to keep it simple and does a good job of saying why he's doing what you see him doing at the same time.
Saw a guy on RUclips use several small magnets for dampening. I have tried rubber, sand and springs. The Magnets worked amazing. I realize now the anvil is basically a bell.
That band saw looks sketchy as heck...
subbed. youtube must have known i needed a way to smith without annoying all my neighbors. thanks for all your vids! God bless!
Glad you found it handy. Flypress is a silent way to forge also. God bless you too.
Nice job on the mounting there Roy. I made up an anvil awhile back made from a railroad rail and that's how I mounted it up. Once I put on the silicone rubber under the mount and mounted the anvil up then it sounds as flat as your anvil that you just showed us all here. I believe the silicone rubber makes a big difference in the sound quality.
Good video ..... watched another anvil mount where as the base of the block was concaved out , this mod kept base wood from movement. Made wood base more stable.
bought one after i snapped the heel of an old harbor freight anvil right trough the hardy hole. i got it on prime day so i saved 19% off :)
that's a great set up you got there i am in the process of mounting a anvil a little smaller like yours. look forward to watching more of your videos. take care
awesome videos just ordered an anvil cant wait to get started
Looks alot colder up your way. Raining and 33° in southern Michigan. Good video Roy.
thanx for the video... what about get the band saw fixed?
I love what u do on here, im just starting out with my first forge and really need anything that will help me along. I want to start forging knives and axes also would be amazing
What a wealth of knowledge! Thank you!
Hey Man I stumbled across your RUclips channel and love it. So many good hints tips and tricks. I I’m toying with the idea of buying a decent anvil instead of my cheap harbour freight one. But when I get my new one I am defently doing this.
Great video, did you plan on eventually make a video about creating hardy hole tools for this particular anvil?
Roy, I understand the Hardy hole for this anvil measures 18mm or .709 inches. Can you show us how to make hardy hole tools to fit it. Thanks & God Bless you guys! Really enjoy the videos and this series!
We recently did a livestream where Roy forged a cold cut hardy tool for this anvil. You might like checking that out. Have a great day. ~Jessica
@@ChristCenteredIronworks Hi Jessica, thanks for the reply. Found it! Thanks again, you guys are the best!
What I did on mine was router out the exact shape of the anvil so it sits down about a half an inch. I put lead mat under it, then bolted it down.routering out that hole makes a big difference. Thanks for the info., Roy who?
Ben Toombs I did similar. Routed out about 3/4, then placed cut to fit pieces of conveyor belt in the holes and the anvil on top. Haven’t bolted mine down yet, have a good size chain around it. Makes it easy for me to move for me when it’s separate from the base
Thanks bud just solved my problem with my vevor anvil to lock it down so it does not sing
Nice stand
I have the same anvil. I didn’t mount mine, I just wrapped some heavy chain around the base to get rid of the *ting*
How about squaring the anvil, marking the corners, apply silicon, the set to your previous marks?
14:30 “now that’s not a proper hammer…”
Electricians seeing what he is holding- confused ooga booga noises
that's a great way to mount it....... shoulda squared up the base so it doesn't rock first though.
I got a old 110lbs peter Wright I haven't mounted yet
great video thank you for the lesson
I see that you have added and insert into your hardy hole. Did you resize the hole to the large anvil size of 1"x1" and put a sleve made from the tubing you used for hardy tool storage on the stump?
Is it a bad idea to put holes into the anvil feet and then connect it directly to the wood?
I love your work...I love your symbol
Roy does it matter with what wood you use, did you use a hard wood like oak or are these just spruce softwood sleepers/beams you used?
I've become a grumpy impatient old coat
Hope you've discovered the usefulness of a pencil for marking holes.
👍🏻🙂
Cool man I want to enter to get one what doni got to do?
Looks cold thereee
I just found your channel! Great content. Missed the free anvils!
:-( what’s next? :-)
I have axes to 6'x6'' Oak beam's from pallets Rather than Pine wood that mite be harder wood do ya think that wood will work to Man That did cut the ring down I like that Thanks Bud
Lolz dangit I missed the anvil giveaway!!!
Good video
Love your channel and how you've inspired me. also, my $29 ugga-dugga gun from harbor freight goes faster lol 13:29
Goofy question incoming. Could I put that anvil upside down in an ice bath, weld a bunch of 16 penny nails in the void, close out the sides with 1/16th plate then fill the void with lead? Would the added mass do anything, such as quiet it even more and maybe influence the rebound characteristics?
Hey, how do you enter to win. Do you have to go Black Bear Forge to enter? What to do?
How do I enter for the anvil???
I know a better option than the silicone. There are rolls of soft uncured rubber they sell at Home Depot that you put around the flange for installing windows. Clean the bottom of the anvil with acetone or something first and cut the rubber to fit with scissors. If you wanted the rubber thicker you can double it up. You could also use PVC cement as an activator if you wanted to bond it. As far as the price I think might be a little cheaper by a dollar or two for the rubber than the silicone. The last time I bought it I think it was about $8. They have 8in wide rolls and about 12 inch wide, depending on the size of your anvil. If you do metal roofs or know someone who does, they also use a similar product for sealing down the metal flashing. Most of the excess silicone squeezes out, but this rubber is not going to squeeze out. The silicone dries like rubber but it's not going to provide as much dampening effect as actual rubber. I used it for mounting a vise and I torqued it down really tight and it performed very well. It's thick enough to provide a great dampening effect but still thin enough to be very stable.
I am just starting out but wouldn't the silicone gives it a spring instead of using the wood itself as part of the mass of the anvil? my understanding is that you want the mass of the mount and anvil to be solid mass by being tight. Thanks for your great videos me and my son are just getting ready to set up our shop and start learning. We have learned a lot from your videos to help get started.
Could you have used leather strips underneath the anvil instead of silicone.
I used nitrile rubber quarry conveyor belting under mine and it works a treat.
should have marked the base before doing the caulk .
Hello Roy, I ordered anvil from your affiliate ebay link. My current anvil shape object is a piece of mild steel drop 12" x 8" x 2" at 65 pounds. Would there be an advantage of mounting my 66 pound anvil on top of my horizontal mounted 12" x 8" x 2" ASO ?
Ima beginner to so very interested in his answer.
I'm betting if you secured them together really tight then mounted it as a unit to the stand...it's going to be a yes and be like a 130 lbs anvil.
I asked a similar question pertaining to an upsetting block adding to the mass of the anvil.
His answer was yes ONLY if the anvil is secure on top of the upsetting block. So that's why I theorize his answer will be yes.
🙏 Blessings to you now
Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
Iff it would be possible to weld the two together that would be good too. But hey do what u gotta do.
@@therealamerican99.76 So I'm going to venture this. If it's the same anvil w the same hole in the feet....
I don't see why one couldn't drill the mild steel. Inserrt a bolt n tork it down pretty tight. Then if one wanted to weld it....given its done like welding the edges, heat the plate and foot up to around 200/250 f and weld it. As long as the heat didn't migrate more that 3/4 of way to top and face didn't get warm it should hold it's temper. Face cooling may be advisable in that situation.
Not a welder but I've been around a bit. Probly wanna go at it cross corners for tacking it down then alternate running beads this side n that to prevent warping. That's all I know. Should be able to do it that way w o issues. As it won't be a true structure weld I'd say a 60 series like 6018 would be good choice for being a tough weld that could handle the vibration better than a 70 or 100 series rod that may creat a more brittle weld under vibration.
Perhaps someone else would have more experienced information
@Dragonstone Gem & Ironworks Crawford.
Exactly! I just think that welding it on (doing proper prep and procedure) would make it better.
@@therealamerican99.76 👍
i`ve never been a fan of screwing the end grain in wood ,
👍
* lag screws, not bolts.
Oh !!
For a blacksmith, it looks like your fire went out.
Beware if you choose those links won’t help getting people to come in to look at products that will help your pocket.
Do a little changing and don’t force awareness by wording like beware or do It Now.
Or it’s your opportunity of a lifetime.
Any who glad to sit down and learn some anvil knowledge.
Thanks bud.
Learned a lot from your videos Roy but that was painful! Stick to blacksmithing Roy, putting fixings into timber is not your strong point. Please replace the bandsaw blade before you hurt yourself!
Second
Why don't you use the holes that are already there?
Think
@@strangetar2833 that really helps lol
A plasma cutter would save you alot of time cutting stock over that portaband.
Bill Woehl
A new bandsaw blade would also help! Blunt is a five letter word!
Stop supporting Amazon.
Wiiiiiiii