E46 M3 SMG Motor Swap DIY
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2016
- E46 M3 SMG Hydraulic Pump motor swap from underneath the car without removing the hydraulic unit. Swapping the motor assembly without removing the unit means you won't need to have the system bled before driving the car.
The new motor was sourced from Burkhart Engineering out of Germany and took about six business to arrive. Swapping just the motor instead of the entire hydraulic unit will cure many SMG related problems without the need to spend thousands of dollars on an entirely new pump assembly. 
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Ok I did it. I didn’t use tool I used a torched and solder, cut the wires and joined them.
I struggled for 2 hrs to put the pump back in so I gave up and ended up thinking of a better way to put the pump back in. I glued the little coupling to the pump and it took me 2 mins to line it back up into the hydraulic unit. I used some sealer to glue it in place. Worked so well.
For those of us that have the 325 SMG E46 , I just found where to fill the reservoir for the hydraulic fluid. Follow the plastic tank that the pump couples up to on the trans to the rear of the tank and look up. There is a plastic cap nut that is a little hard to get to, but can be done. Remove, use a pump and hose to refill. Open and close the door a few times to let the pump cycle, then top off. Worked like a champ after. I hope this helps someone.
My local "good rep" indie shop here in WA, Broadstroke associates quoted me 6.7k for the pump...and another 1.8k for labor. Lol, so basically 9k to swap an smg pump. What the actual fuck man...then he had the balls to say "you dont love it that much?" and i said "i do, but not giving you 9k to fix it as that is a rip off and i'll fix it myself for much cheaper" Always a easier way out than these shit greedy shops!! Moral of the story: This man right here is saving all of you thousands, and thousands of dollars! Be grateful people like him exist! Thanks so much bro!
My lsb has been immobile now for just recently shy of a year. Time to get her back up again...for just a few hundred dollars. Savings of 98.7%. yeah, i'd much rather take that deal as opposed to 9k
Raw Frequency
hey its been 7 months since your comment. did you fix it? what happened?
i have just changed mine but the i still have the same problem, still having the same codes
53 (0x35) low level of pressure reached HE
and
56 (0x38) Switching-on time of hydraulic unit
i have changed the temp sensor before as well as the clutch sensor, nothing changed
i think i'm going to change the whole unit, i dunno what to do else
great work u did there btw, u really make it easy to do.
Did you change your fluid as well, or only the pump motor? One other thing to check would be your accumulator if you're still unable to maintain pressure before changing out the entire unit. Hope you get it sorted out without having to spend too much, good luck!
Detent springs too
Thanks bro mine stopped working and I gotta do this in the parking lot, this looks easier than remove the whole unit
Trust me at certain points you will have wished you went in from the engine bay 😅
@@biglefty08 yesssss I did think that, i glued the coupler to the pump and when I tired it again it took me 2 min, I would do it this way again.
@@HolyFix What kind of glue? Did you glue it to the pump side, the motor side, to both, or did you glue the two together? Can you give us the details?
@@RickHavok I used a silicone rtv sealer. The black stuff. Permatex “the right stuff” series. Left it in there for an hour or so.
That helped a lot. Went right in with the coupler glued on. I would do it again like this. Not without gluing the coupler onto the pump.
@@HolyFix Thanks for that tip!
I am struggling to get the torx bit in place to remove the electrical bracket. Any tips or suggestion are welcome.
I believe I did that one mostly by feel. It took some trial and error but I eventually got it out. Wish I had better advice, but sometimes taking a five minute break and then trying again helps get you through the frustrating or difficult parts.
Excellent video! I came here from the m3forum, but... Is there any DIY or steps about swapping the SMG Pentosin oil? Thanks!
I don't have a DIY on the SMG oil swap, but there are two ways to go about it. The best method would be to completely exchange the fluid, which would require BMW software. This wasn't an option for me, so I primed the pump and the removed all of the fluid from the reservoir that I could and refilled it with fresh fluid. While not optimal, I haven't had an issue since and the car has been working flawlessly. Hope this helps!
+y2ksierra oh nice! Yes I was confused because I read about the GT1 necessary to do the transfusion... But it that way worked out, it's good to know for the future ;)
any different you feel using the high performance hydraulic oil? can it solve the jerky downshift on auto mode?
The fluid wouldn't change poor driving characteristics. Have you tried having your adaptations reset? If not, I would start there and see if it improves your drivability.
just stick a csl gearbox rev matching software update on it.
Thanks for the video! Ill be doing this very shortly. Any chance of selling your pin removal tool?
No problem! I am going to hold onto the release tool but if I happen to change my mind, I'll let you know.
@y2ksierra what size are the torx bolts for the harness removal? the ones you have to remove by feel. Is it same size as the motor torx? t25? I tried that and not sure if its too big or small...i'm just worried not to strip it. Any advice would be appreciated.. the rest of the procedure is easy and i find this to be the hardest part. Thanks!
Update: Alright so the right socket is t15...got the first torx out of the harness socket, what is the easiest way to get the second one that is not visible with the naked eye? I located it by feel and tried using my little socket with a t15 attached to it...seems like one of the hoses on the oil block gets in the way when trying to remove the 2nd screw...therefore I'm having a hard time removing it..think I'm gonna call it a day today and get back to it another day. Some advice of how to remove this would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Thanks again
Raw Frequency did you find a solution? I am struggling to both screws out.
On mine they are both t20... they are tough to remove but with time and patience you can get them.. initially you can push up (slightly) on the unit to free up some space.. a low profile torx wrench combo really helps@@sandeep1966
After replacing the motor, the car does not start and has the yellow cog light.
Is there anything else that needs to be done?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Does the motor prime when you unlock the door or is nothing happening? Which codes are being thrown? I’d start there as it could be a simple as something not being hooked up correctly but the codes will point you in the right direction.
Gotta bleed the system too if you change fluid
what were the symptoms that pointed you to the motor? I don't hear my pump priming and now I can't get off parking and start the car. I already changed the salmon relay and checked fuses, but still the same problem.
My issues mostly seemed related to heat as most of my problems surfaced during the summer months. If you're not starting or even priming, I would see what codes are being thrown and go from there as it could be a number of things. Good luck with your car!
y2ksierra thank you
If you dont hear your Pump prime. Try the bleeding procedure. Also check the hydraulic pressure with INPA if possible.
What are the sizes of the torx sockets needed for this job?
anthony smith I cannot remember the exact sizes used; however, I had everything needed in my craftsman "mechanic" set so they are nothing out of the ordinary. I believe it was around a T20 or T25 size, hopefully someone else can chime in with the exact sizes.
Can you swap the oil without removing the unit or having to do all the bleeding procedures?
Peter Medland you can swap out what's in the reservoir but it won't net the same results as doing the entire system and properly bleeding it.
@@y2ksierra Thanks. So what's the proper way to fully drain the system before filling it again?
So my car goes into gear but as soon as i release my foot off the brake it drops to N. Will this fix my issue?
I would recommend reading the codes first as it will point you in the right direction. Could be this, the gps or a multitude of other things. Reading the codes will help you know for sure.
@@y2ksierra i am having p1717 error code..car was having slow shifting .. used GPS was changed ..and today car drops out of gear to neutral ..then pops back into gear .. i assume it's pressure related .. hope by changing out motor first can cure it .. or .. perhaps it's the accumulator .. Do you happen to have DIY video on accumulator as well (fingers crossed) ..
hi. how much is the motor
Where did you source the pin extractor? The ones I buy keep bending … or am I press too hard down?
Burkhart for mine. You may be pressing too hard if it’s damaging the removal tool.
@@y2ksierra I know you said it takes some force … I feel the release tool seating but the wire won’t budge. Did you push the wire in a little then put the tool in to get it out?
@@y2ksierra one more question… how does the drive coupler stay on the ends? Does it need to go into the pump first then insert the motor?
@@z-dub8577 apologize but it’s been a long time since I did this. I seem to remember the motor fitting over the coupler and all settling into place. There was no need to force anything together.
@@y2ksierra cool man I appreciate all the info and your a brave man for doing this and putting it up . thank you
I just replaced the smg pump electric motor with the burkhart. I check if the car goes into gears and everything was good. After a few minutes the cog light comes back on and the car goes into neutral. I try to change to R and 1 but it stays in neutral. After a few minutes it allows me to go into R and 1 and I can drive for a bout 30 seconds, then it goes back into N. It is worse than my original motor. I haven't put in the burkhart hydraulic fluid yet. Could this be the reason? or is there something else going on?
Is the SMG indicator blinking in the dashboard? If so, I would do the following:
1. Pull the codes with INPA.
2. Clear codes.
3. To be sure, replace the SMG relais.
4. Replace the fluid.
5. Execute the SMG bleeding procedure.
6. Calibrate SMG.
Christian Visser great advice. I agree 100%
The SMG indicator is not blinking, it stays lit, the yellow cog light. I don't have access to INPA. I used generic scanner to pull code, just getting a P1717. I cleared codes and car same problem happens shortly after I start the car back up and the cog lights up again on the dash. I will replace the current fluid with 0.46 L of the burkhart and see what happens. I should note that I replaced the motor without removing the HCU because I didnt want to bleed it as I dont have the bleeding software. I should also note that the car battery was fully drained before I did the replacement motor. I jumped the car battery to get it to start up. Can a very low or weak battery cause this problem? I unlock the door and I hear the pump priming, sounds good.
UTubeMakesMeHappy3 I would try to exchange the fluid in the reservoir first and see if it cures your problem. I am not sure on your battery issues, but having low voltage or a poor battery in a modern car is never a good thing. Perhaps have your battery tested and replaced, if necessary. Hope it works out for you, let us know!
ok i will replace the fluid now. Do i just suck out what is in the resevoir with a turkey baster and then refill the reservoir? I dont want to put air back into the lines, how much should I suck out? The battery was drained because I didnt drive the car for a few weeks and I had a audio system capacitor/lightning cap that was draining the main battery while the car was off. I uninstalled that so it would no longer drain my battery. The battery is maybe 2 years old I bought it oem from dealer. Thanks for the reply.
I just changed my motor out, it primes but it won't change from the gear I left it in before I swapped it. am I missing something simple?
Have you checked the codes? I would start there to see what kind of faults are displayed. Hopefully it is something simple that will be an easy fix!
Thats what im working on now, Its gotta be something simple if it worked before i changed it.
hooked up my laptop and discovered zero pressure being produced. turns out I installed the connector in reverse polarity. Don't be an idiot like me...
+sc1338 glad to hear it was something simple. Hope it's up and running now
I am struggling to get torn bit in place to remove the bracket for the electrical connector. Any tip on how to get those screws out?
Just spend 3 days doing this method and honestly it was a nightmare lmao, and to top it all off the car started to select gears then began making a awful clicking noise and now the pump is building zero pressure. If anyone is in the market for a 03 m3 vert lmk
Currently in the process of getting the funds together for a manual swap, a reputable shop in Tacoma WA has a turn key service for a great price!
Limited information and certainly not detailed.