Thanks video is helping me a year later , I had to sand down my sidewalks in the spacer , also my gold bushings do not sit flush I think they are bent,… I guess I will have to buy a new unit 3000$🙃
@@fuzzybmw I’m on the lookout for a whole new unit because my gold washers don’t sit flush, and I sanded down the spacer and it’s not building pressure I’ll hit up mlr and see if they have one
@@quickflip9904 hopefully they do and can get you squared away. I do have a whole hydraulic unit I need to make a video on. Might go out and do it tonight. After I’m done I could sell it to you. Shoot me an email. Fuzzybmws@gmail.com
@@quickflip9904 got the video made. The pump needs gaskets but the internals are all good. Shoot me an email and I’ll get you squared away for the whole unit I have
On the driver side (left) of the transmission. There is a black box attached to the silver block. The black box is the fluid reservoir (chf11 fluid). You’ll have to remove the reservoir in order to get to this pump and there are only 2 bolts needed to remove the hydraulic pump so you can get to the bolts for the electric motor. Best recommendation is to pull the transmission so you can do this with ease but it is possible to do this all without removing the transmission
Exhaust has to be removed from manifolds back to mufflers, driveline must be removed, transmission needs to be at least lowered- jack underneath and unbolt transmission mount and crossmember to lower. If you would like to make life easier on yourself you should just remove the transmission from the car. You have some hard lines that you fight a bit and the clamp for the smg reservoir as well. Personal recommendation- pull transmission and do a bunch of maintenance and preventative maintenance while you are in there such as the clutch and flywheel, PLATIC clutch fork pivot pin (replace with plastic only), throw out bearing, slave cylinder, and anything else that looks like it may be wearing or starting to sweat/seep. These smg transmissions have a habit of leaking at the center housing gasket so that it something else to think about in the process and to at least keep an eye out for.
@@crherniman I did it no problem 2 years ago with the exhaust on the car. I dont think it was a terrible job to do. I swapped the whole pump electric motor and of course you have to take the pump out to do so. BUT I'll say if you can manage to drop the trans then do it and do a full service on the SMG system, o-rings for the entire unit, slave cylinder ect, MLR can help guide u to replacement parts. When I did just my motor 8 months later my clutch went. Rebuilding the pump now thats why im here!
@@djakatrey 1/4. I used a click style from Oreillys but now that I’m working in a shop I’d recommend spending the money on one of the tool truck brands for a digital one. Much more precise and no issues with the click messing with the torque amount. Good example of what I’m recommending is the Cornwell CTG2000ANGX. They’re spendy as hell but well worth it on something like this pump
The electric motor drives this hydraulic pump. And in order to remove the electric motor you do have to remove this pump. I’ll make another video tomorrow or this weekend to explain it better
@fuzzybmw cool so if i remove the motor without lowering the trans im across this thing correct? I just got the red cog and i see my car is not building pressure but the motor sounds okay when triggered manually, so i guess orings on that thing but i tought it was on top of the trans and thanks man ill watch it
I rebuilt it for a couple reasons. Ultimate reason was one of the brass bushings didn’t seat right and upon torquing it down it crushed the center plate making it lose pressure. Second part was you have to remove this to get to the bolts for the electric motor, and thirdly you have to open it up to replace the gaskets
@@Invisible-N1 it’s possible. I wouldn’t rule it out but if you’re not doing it yourself just be prepared for labor costs. The gaskets themselves I got from MLReng.com and they’re like $80. The labor is the expensive part. Personally, I’m all about preventative maintenance. I would say freshen up the system while you’re in there like I did but that’s ultimately up to you.
Thanks video is helping me a year later , I had to sand down my sidewalks in the spacer , also my gold bushings do not sit flush I think they are bent,… I guess I will have to buy a new unit 3000$🙃
Get ahold of MLReng. They saved my ass on it and I was able to purchase another pump spacer from them. Used but it’s been working no problem.
@@fuzzybmw I’m on the lookout for a whole new unit because my gold washers don’t sit flush, and I sanded down the spacer and it’s not building pressure I’ll hit up mlr and see if they have one
@@quickflip9904 hopefully they do and can get you squared away. I do have a whole hydraulic unit I need to make a video on. Might go out and do it tonight. After I’m done I could sell it to you. Shoot me an email. Fuzzybmws@gmail.com
@@quickflip9904 got the video made. The pump needs gaskets but the internals are all good. Shoot me an email and I’ll get you squared away for the whole unit I have
Where does this hydraulik pump sit?
I only know where the pump/electro-motor is.
On the driver side (left) of the transmission. There is a black box attached to the silver block. The black box is the fluid reservoir (chf11 fluid). You’ll have to remove the reservoir in order to get to this pump and there are only 2 bolts needed to remove the hydraulic pump so you can get to the bolts for the electric motor. Best recommendation is to pull the transmission so you can do this with ease but it is possible to do this all without removing the transmission
I can't seem to get a 100% answer on if the transmission and exhaust have to be removed to swap the electric motor. Do you happen to know?
Exhaust has to be removed from manifolds back to mufflers, driveline must be removed, transmission needs to be at least lowered- jack underneath and unbolt transmission mount and crossmember to lower. If you would like to make life easier on yourself you should just remove the transmission from the car. You have some hard lines that you fight a bit and the clamp for the smg reservoir as well. Personal recommendation- pull transmission and do a bunch of maintenance and preventative maintenance while you are in there such as the clutch and flywheel, PLATIC clutch fork pivot pin (replace with plastic only), throw out bearing, slave cylinder, and anything else that looks like it may be wearing or starting to sweat/seep. These smg transmissions have a habit of leaking at the center housing gasket so that it something else to think about in the process and to at least keep an eye out for.
@@fuzzybmw awesome thanks! Trying to avoid removing the whole trans etc since everything EXCEPT the electric motor was basically just replaced.
@@crherniman understood. Good luck and just be prepared to remove the trans to make life easier. Send an update when you finish it up!
@@crherniman I did it no problem 2 years ago with the exhaust on the car. I dont think it was a terrible job to do. I swapped the whole pump electric motor and of course you have to take the pump out to do so. BUT I'll say if you can manage to drop the trans then do it and do a full service on the SMG system, o-rings for the entire unit, slave cylinder ect, MLR can help guide u to replacement parts. When I did just my motor 8 months later my clutch went. Rebuilding the pump now thats why im here!
Short bolts 5nm longer ones 6nm? Or vice versa?
Short is 5nm longer is 6nm.
@@fuzzybmw the sort bolts use the washers?
@@djakatrey yes, short bolts use the washers
@@fuzzybmw what size torque wrench did you use?
@@djakatrey 1/4. I used a click style from Oreillys but now that I’m working in a shop I’d recommend spending the money on one of the tool truck brands for a digital one. Much more precise and no issues with the click messing with the torque amount.
Good example of what I’m recommending is the Cornwell CTG2000ANGX. They’re spendy as hell but well worth it on something like this pump
Where is this part located if is not the motor?
The electric motor drives this hydraulic pump. And in order to remove the electric motor you do have to remove this pump. I’ll make another video tomorrow or this weekend to explain it better
@fuzzybmw cool so if i remove the motor without lowering the trans im across this thing correct? I just got the red cog and i see my car is not building pressure but the motor sounds okay when triggered manually, so i guess orings on that thing but i tought it was on top of the trans and thanks man ill watch it
@@88zpeedy you could have low smg fluid ! or air in the system
Did you rebuild this because your transmission was out ?
I rebuilt it for a couple reasons. Ultimate reason was one of the brass bushings didn’t seat right and upon torquing it down it crushed the center plate making it lose pressure. Second part was you have to remove this to get to the bolts for the electric motor, and thirdly you have to open it up to replace the gaskets
did you fix it? I'm just suffering, I can't hold pressure (
@@Invisible-N1 have you inspected the system to try and find leaks or pinpoint where the leak is?
@@fuzzybmw Yes, they checked, my master claims that the problem is in this pump
@@Invisible-N1 it’s possible. I wouldn’t rule it out but if you’re not doing it yourself just be prepared for labor costs. The gaskets themselves I got from MLReng.com and they’re like $80. The labor is the expensive part. Personally, I’m all about preventative maintenance. I would say freshen up the system while you’re in there like I did but that’s ultimately up to you.