Damn brother, my E60 M5s will love you! I’ve been searching the internet for months trying to find the procedure to do this fluid change, to no avail. I can’t thank you enough for doing this! You the man, M Tech Guy! Thanks 🎉
Thanks for the kind words Steve, it’s greatly appreciated! I dunno man, but I am very grateful for the subscribers that do currently follow the channel
@MTechGuy can you please help me out on making a video on how to bleed the vanos line after replacing your rod bearings with your scan tool . Or is this how you do it after replacing the vanos line inside the block I'm not seen any info on this any where and you will be the only one making a video please help me out
Another great video - I’ll complete this procedure on mine. That fluid looked very tired. So helpful of BMW to put the SMG III fluid reservoir all the way down there. Its a five minute job to do this on an SMG II in an E46 as the Pentosin reservoir is under the bonnet.
Hi! Great content and very appreciative of your thorough explanation and step by step instructions. I own a 2008 M5 with just about 68k miles. I just did the SMG hydraulic fluid change and it went very well. Thank you! The fluid that came out was dark orange, but the most concerning part was that there was much more new fluid going in compared to what came out. So i’m glad I did it and intend to do it every 15k miles along with the gear oil and diff oil moving forward. I m doing my oil change every 3.5k miles with 10w60 LiquiMoly and I add CeraTec to help with reducing wear on the rod bearings. The car was a south California car then with me in South Florida all its life, so cold start was never a problem. Plus it has the second drain plug so i’m not concerned about the bearing and will preventatively changed them after 100k miles. This might sound stange but this E60 M5 is one of the most reliable BMW i’ve ever owned. Despite its race pedigree, it’s built to last and it’s surprisingly easy to work on. Thanks again for the work you do, it really has an impact on getting the confidence of DIY and owning such an incredible piece of automotive history at a very small cost of ownership!
Cheers man, good to hear you are finding the channel useful. Sounds like your M5 is getting looked after properly. Yes, I found them to be very reliable for sure
I have a question @mtech guy! I hope you can give it a quick read. :) A symptom that is leading me to think that the pressure accumulator Is at fault. When I cold start in the morning after the car has been off for a good 10/12 hours, it drives very rough, specially in first gear, very bad jerky movement to get going, gear changes are rough aswell, specially 1st and 2nd.. but! after a drive of 10-15 mins, everything start to become smooth again. I feel like it's taking time for the pressure to build up. my theory is that there is no nitrogen left in the accumulator that builds pressure when the car starts after a long nap, and builds up to correct pressure after 10-15 mins. Sorry for the long note here, what do you think?
I would start by making sure the fluid is at the correct level, then get the vehicle connected to a BMW scan tool, see what SMG codes it’s got and go from there
Great tutorial, thanks. Any chance you could do a video on servicing the SMG pump motor? Apparently they can get clogged up with carbon dust and perform better after cleaning.
Another Quality video👍 Been hoping for a while you would do this one! But also “dam you” because I’ve only just put the under tray back on!😂 So may save this job for the winter! Another worth while job on these if your looking for ideas: Remove the side skirts and clean underneath them as they harbour all sorts of dirt,Mud,leafs & grime! That just hold the damp, well in the UK anyway! Stop the rot setting in! They come off and go on fairly easily as well,so worth doing as a preventative maint every once in a while!
Cheers Duncs, easy 20 min job jacking up and whipping the under tray back off 😉 I did notice a lot of stones stuck under the side skirts while I was busy with this job, that’s not a bad idea- I’ll write it down! 👍
Your vids have helped me so much! Thank you for making them. I think I’ve watched all of them for the s85 and keep referring back to them. Have you ever looked to do the x2 auxiliary oil pump gaskets?
Thanks for following the channel! No engine oil leaks currently, but if they do start leaking in the future I’ll replace them and more than likely make a video on it
Superb video ! That's a really cool (pristine) special Bimmer you have. I own several scan tools, but nothing extreme. I just bought a 2007 BMW 650i with the SMG transmission. The previous owner has had it for 4 years and he told me the trans. has not been serviced during his ownership. I'm not sure my scan tools can do the necessary transmission service functions, so can this hydraulic service be performed without a scan tool ? I know the car hesitates to go into reverse at startup, but I'm also not exactly certain how these cars should shift, so I'm unsure if it has shifting problems. It doesn't act right and shows 133,000 miles on the odometer. Any suggestions?
I would start by reading the codes. It’s certainly worth starting with checking the hydraulic fluid level and check the relays too. You will need a scan tool like this, to check the level and change the fluid (the accumulator needs to be depressurised) This scan tool was relatively cheap and has been very useful with this car
Excellent knowledge once again. Have you done a video on removing the SMG pump? My E61 has just got the red cog and pump wont prime now. Keen to fix it myself rather than take to my local dealer.
Not made a video on that so far, normally it’s the pump motor rather than the pump itself that fails. If you have a red cog light it could mean any number of things though, best to carry out a diagnosis before changing anything
Hi MTechGuy. Codes are 4FA0 and 5101. Clutch position sensor and hydraulic pressure sensor faults. Car is now in 165,000km so I'm going to take SMG pump off and give it an overhaul. Can I take the PLCD sensor off at the same time or does the transmission need dropping slightly? TIA
@@neilyates3255 Yeah have to drop the tail of the gearbox to replace the PLCD, but with them two codes together there is a possibility it could be a leaky clutch slave
Thanks MTechGuy... that does make more sense now as the SMG pump still primes when the car is unlocked. Getting put back in the garage over winter. Job for next spring.
No, it has to be bled using the correct procedure. If the level doesn’t get so low it introduces air into the system, you might get away with not having to bleed it, but it’s hard to tell
@@MTechGuy I figured as well . when I de pressurize with shwabben tool . and suck all old fluid out may introduce air , but part of me thinks would be short lived as any air bubbles with new fluid added would eventually make their way to the accumulator top by opening door and driving car ... i could be wrong though .. thanks
Doesn’t need to be done that often, but might as well do it with the diff oil and SMG gear oil at the same time- every 30,000 kms or 4 years, whichever comes first
just what i needed , planing on doing this soon . one question when you did the gearbox oil change you didnt show where the fill plug was . is it easy to find with the cooler removed ?
can you disconnect the battery instead of getting the relay out ??? i'm looking to do it my self as well just wanted to know if it's the same thing ! thanks!!
@@MTechGuy bro any suggestion on rpm drop, after I rev on idle to 3000 rpm , but whe I leave the throttle the rpm drops to 500 and gain again to 750 rpm
@@MTechGuy amazing, seriously thank you for the rapid response. i have a 2007 m6 e64 that has been neglected for the past few years so im trying to get it back to life and the transmission is the only thing acting up shifting, maybe slip
Can you tell us what the scan tool is that you’re using? Would be nice to be able to do these things without having to use a laptop and then trying to figure out how to get ISTA working.
Yeah getting INPA/ISTA working properly on a laptop can be difficult. In this video I’m using my Schwaben scan tool, I made a video on it previously- ruclips.net/video/qfAA3j9LaMM/видео.html
It empties the accumulator into the reservoir. Although you are not breaking into the high pressure side of the system with this job, you need to do this to give you a true level reading at the reservoir
Damn brother, my E60 M5s will love you! I’ve been searching the internet for months trying to find the procedure to do this fluid change, to no avail. I can’t thank you enough for doing this! You the man, M Tech Guy! Thanks 🎉
No worries, cheers Jeremiahex
can't wait to get one of these cars man. having your videos as a free resource would make ownership much less scary!
It’s not scary!
Still producing the best BMW content on RUclips. Can't understand why your subscriber count isn't 10 or even 100 fold higher
Thanks for the kind words Steve, it’s greatly appreciated!
I dunno man, but I am very grateful for the subscribers that do currently follow the channel
@@MTechGuy.
@MTechGuy can you please help me out on making a video on how to bleed the vanos line after replacing your rod bearings with your scan tool . Or is this how you do it after replacing the vanos line inside the block I'm not seen any info on this any where and you will be the only one making a video please help me out
@@catalinosolorzano7054 I plan to do one in the near future
@MTechGuy can you walk me through one I'm doing the vanos line right now and not sure how to bleed it afterwards
Another great video - I’ll complete this procedure on mine. That fluid looked very tired.
So helpful of BMW to put the SMG III fluid reservoir all the way down there. Its a five minute job to do this on an SMG II in an E46 as the Pentosin reservoir is under the bonnet.
Cheers Mark, it’s a good job to get done.
Yeah different set up to the E46 SMG II for sure!
Hi! Great content and very appreciative of your thorough explanation and step by step instructions. I own a 2008 M5 with just about 68k miles. I just did the SMG hydraulic fluid change and it went very well. Thank you! The fluid that came out was dark orange, but the most concerning part was that there was much more new fluid going in compared to what came out. So i’m glad I did it and intend to do it every 15k miles along with the gear oil and diff oil moving forward. I m doing my oil change every 3.5k miles with 10w60 LiquiMoly and I add CeraTec to help with reducing wear on the rod bearings. The car was a south California car then with me in South Florida all its life, so cold start was never a problem. Plus it has the second drain plug so i’m not concerned about the bearing and will preventatively changed them after 100k miles. This might sound stange but this E60 M5 is one of the most reliable BMW i’ve ever owned. Despite its race pedigree, it’s built to last and it’s surprisingly easy to work on. Thanks again for the work you do, it really has an impact on getting the confidence of DIY and owning such an incredible piece of automotive history at a very small cost of ownership!
Cheers man, good to hear you are finding the channel useful. Sounds like your M5 is getting looked after properly. Yes, I found them to be very reliable for sure
Big thanks for the all videos, learning alot for my 530i SMG 6 Speed!
I have a question @mtech guy!
I hope you can give it a quick read. :)
A symptom that is leading me to think that the pressure accumulator Is at fault.
When I cold start in the morning after the car has been off for a good 10/12 hours, it drives very rough, specially in first gear, very bad jerky movement to get going, gear changes are rough aswell, specially 1st and 2nd.. but! after a drive of 10-15 mins, everything start to become smooth again. I feel like it's taking time for the pressure to build up. my theory is that there is no nitrogen left in the accumulator that builds pressure when the car starts after a long nap, and builds up to correct pressure after 10-15 mins. Sorry for the long note here, what do you think?
I would start by making sure the fluid is at the correct level, then get the vehicle connected to a BMW scan tool, see what SMG codes it’s got and go from there
Great instructions, your car looks pristine
Thanks man, I hope the video helps you out with your fluid change
Love the videos! All great info I’ll be using on my new to me e60 M5
Cheers, thanks for following the channel. Congrats on the E60 M5 purchase 👍
Great tutorial, thanks. Any chance you could do a video on servicing the SMG pump motor? Apparently they can get clogged up with carbon dust and perform better after cleaning.
Another Quality video👍 Been hoping for a while you would do this one! But also “dam you” because I’ve only just put the under tray back on!😂 So may save this job for the winter! Another worth while job on these if your looking for ideas: Remove the side skirts and clean underneath them as they harbour all sorts of dirt,Mud,leafs & grime! That just hold the damp, well in the UK anyway! Stop the rot setting in! They come off and go on fairly easily as well,so worth doing as a preventative maint every once in a while!
Cheers Duncs, easy 20 min job jacking up and whipping the under tray back off 😉
I did notice a lot of stones stuck under the side skirts while I was busy with this job, that’s not a bad idea- I’ll write it down! 👍
Your vids have helped me so much! Thank you for making them. I think I’ve watched all of them for the s85 and keep referring back to them. Have you ever looked to do the x2 auxiliary oil pump gaskets?
Thanks for following the channel! No engine oil leaks currently, but if they do start leaking in the future I’ll replace them and more than likely make a video on it
Superb video ! That's a really cool (pristine) special Bimmer you have. I own several scan tools, but nothing extreme. I just bought a 2007 BMW 650i with the SMG transmission. The previous owner has had it for 4 years and he told me the trans. has not been serviced during his ownership. I'm not sure my scan tools can do the necessary transmission service functions, so can this hydraulic service be performed without a scan tool ? I know the car hesitates to go into reverse at startup, but I'm also not exactly certain how these cars should shift, so I'm unsure if it has shifting problems. It doesn't act right and shows 133,000 miles on the odometer. Any suggestions?
I would start by reading the codes. It’s certainly worth starting with checking the hydraulic fluid level and check the relays too. You will need a scan tool like this, to check the level and change the fluid (the accumulator needs to be depressurised) This scan tool was relatively cheap and has been very useful with this car
How much u put in there?
1Liter?
Excellent knowledge once again. Have you done a video on removing the SMG pump? My E61 has just got the red cog and pump wont prime now. Keen to fix it myself rather than take to my local dealer.
Not made a video on that so far, normally it’s the pump motor rather than the pump itself that fails. If you have a red cog light it could mean any number of things though, best to carry out a diagnosis before changing anything
Hi MTechGuy. Codes are 4FA0 and 5101. Clutch position sensor and hydraulic pressure sensor faults. Car is now in 165,000km so I'm going to take SMG pump off and give it an overhaul. Can I take the PLCD sensor off at the same time or does the transmission need dropping slightly? TIA
@@neilyates3255 Yeah have to drop the tail of the gearbox to replace the PLCD, but with them two codes together there is a possibility it could be a leaky clutch slave
Thanks MTechGuy... that does make more sense now as the SMG pump still primes when the car is unlocked. Getting put back in the garage over winter. Job for next spring.
Have you done the gearbox oil also?
Makes sense to do it while you've got the car jacked up and the covers off
Yes, good opportunity to do both together. I changed the gear oil when I first bought the car-
ruclips.net/video/4R-q8DFZ8PE/видео.html
Question .. I if i do this but leave out the bleeding procedure will i be able to bleed the system by driving the car running through gears ? thnx
No, it has to be bled using the correct procedure. If the level doesn’t get so low it introduces air into the system, you might get away with not having to bleed it, but it’s hard to tell
@@MTechGuy I figured as well . when I de pressurize with shwabben tool . and suck all old fluid out may introduce air , but part of me thinks would be short lived as any air bubbles with new fluid added would eventually make their way to the accumulator top by opening door and driving car ... i could be wrong though .. thanks
Love your videos ! so clean ! so easy to understand ! and you get to the point
Cheers man, I appreciate it
What change intervall would you recommend?
Doesn’t need to be done that often, but might as well do it with the diff oil and SMG gear oil at the same time- every 30,000 kms or 4 years, whichever comes first
just what i needed , planing on doing this soon . one question when you did the gearbox oil change you didnt show where the fill plug was . is it easy to find with the cooler removed ?
Yeah, it’s easy to find but tight access
can you disconnect the battery instead of getting the relay out ??? i'm looking to do it my self as well just wanted to know if it's the same thing !
thanks!!
Isolating the pump at the battery would work, you still need it connected for depressurising the system and bleeding afterwards though
so the 1L bottle was plenty enough for the Job ?
Yes
@MTechGuy 👍 thnx
Great video yet again , do you plan to change vacume lines , all of them
Cheers, no not at this stage, but maybe sometime in the future
@@MTechGuy bro any suggestion on rpm drop, after I rev on idle to 3000 rpm , but whe I leave the throttle the rpm drops to 500 and gain again to 750 rpm
do you need to setup any drain when you bleed with the diagnostics tool or does the car handle it?
No, it all goes back to the reservoir
@@MTechGuy amazing, seriously thank you for the rapid response. i have a 2007 m6 e64 that has been neglected for the past few years so im trying to get it back to life and the transmission is the only thing acting up shifting, maybe slip
Excellent
if you do this without depressurizing your not causing any damage just making a mess correct ?
You need to depressurise the accumulator into the reservoir to give you a true level reading
@@MTechGuy thanks bud !
@@MTechGuy think its a good idea to do it x2 twice to flush all old out ?
@@jayd1008 I think is probably unnecessary
so you think it's safe to change the fluid if i just disconnect the battery if i don't have the scanner ????
No, the system has to be depressurise first, and best to bleed it following the fluid change
Can you tell us what the scan tool is that you’re using? Would be nice to be able to do these things without having to use a laptop and then trying to figure out how to get ISTA working.
Yeah getting INPA/ISTA working properly on a laptop can be difficult. In this video I’m using my Schwaben scan tool, I made a video on it previously-
ruclips.net/video/qfAA3j9LaMM/видео.html
@@MTechGuy Awesome thank you. Love your videos. Keep up the good work!
how exactly does the pressure get reduced by the scan tool ?
It empties the accumulator into the reservoir. Although you are not breaking into the high pressure side of the system with this job, you need to do this to give you a true level reading at the reservoir
What scan tool model/manufacturer do you use? Thanks
Schwaben
Did you notice any improvement
Feels smoother, but might just be placebo effect! It was pretty smooth before anyhow