Insulating details for a radiant heated .Nudura crawl space.
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Check out this awesome insulation detail we did on this camp we are building. It has a Nudura frost protected crawl space. We put radiant heat in the concrete floor in the crawl space to heat the entire camp. This is a easy way to insulate the rim joist of any building you are building We are also building this camp with rough cut lumber. I will show you how we work with rough cut lumber. Most of this lumber is hemlock and pine from a local Amish sawmill.
RIP Larry Haun did every nail with one or two strikes…
Hi Bondo
Question, is there a concern of summer time moisture on the slab?
Have you built a heated crawl space in the past?
Are customers happy with past performance?
I have built a heated crawl space but tubing was in joist. It is one of my rental property and works great. Another one I did a basement this way and it heats the entire house just put open registers in every room. 👍
Would you be putting any vents in the floor to circulate the hot air from the crawl space?
We will try it without them but will probably put them in Jim. 👍👍
Who's got the bad case of dandruff? All that white stuff flying around..... Very good you have these beams from prior efforts, 6 years ago.... COOL! TIMBER FRAMING!!!! BOLTS?!?!? C'mon man i wanna see wooden pegs!
Sorry about the bolts. LOL 😊😊
I would think for NY State the outer foam is not thick enough to prevent a dew point from occurring at the outer rim joist. I was thinking you had sub zero weather most of the winter. I must be wrong though. You know what you are doing.
Noticed the zip board in my area is going from $36 to $52 bucks a sheet. You must be getting a good deal on you lumber to not be going full ICF. Going full ICF is the same costs as stick build right now. Not for long though. I heard Nudura is raising it's prices by 15% soon and Fox Block is going up 5% as well. This is going to be a great series. Looking forward to the coming vids.
Thank. Yes building materials are stupid right now. We saved a bunch building like this. 4" of foam is good around that rim joist. Could add more if needed but most houses have none. LOL
That's a great job Bondo. Most of the houses I've seen (and done) only use fiberglass inside the rim board. Cold goes right through that. Once you get the foam all done make sure you seal everything so no air leaks.
Ya the fiberglass is not a good choice for insulating a rim joist.
Squash blocks down the center, and bridging or squash block down the center of span each side of beam...thats code here in Ontario...makes a big difference, floor takes more weight and stops alot of squeaks
This floor is real sturdy. that rough cut hemlock is strong stuff.
@@bondobuilt386 ive got 40 acres..a bunch is bush..alot of 40- 45" pine, and many others..but also hemlock. Made a bench down by my creek out a 15" diameter chunk about 15 years ago, just 2 stumps, flatten top, removed bark, 10' long...and its still hard and solid as the day is long.
Looks great. Best part is the crawl space will be dry.
Definetly dry and warm. We did a nice drain in there. 👍
You built something I have had on my mind for a while now but with slightly different purpose . That insulated slub could be a great heat storage . Lets say you have night rate for electricity very low, just heat it up at night and regulate temperature inside a house with a fan in a floor or you have a big lot and want to install thermal solar panels to heat a house for free
Even more you can increase capacity of your heat accumulator just by placing big jars with water on the slab
That would be a great idea. I would put insulation down and then 4” of sand then the tubing and concrete. Bigger heast sink.
Bondo....don’t miss a single stage of this cabin. I want to see the ENTIRE build.
Thanks for the upload.
I'm trying uncle Jim. These videos are a lot of work but guys like you keep me doing them. 😊😊
You can always take a break and make more rebar protectors.
@@jimanderson4495 Yes I been doing that uncle Jim. LOL 😊
Looks good Ron, I like the idea of the foam on the outside of the rim. I've always just done the inside and of course usually after the deck was on. Looking forward to the next episode. And it looks like you have a gem in Terry always nice to have some old school experience.
Thanks Nick. Terry is awesome. A knowledgeable guy he is for sure. I taught and old dog a new trick though. Big papa never seen that insulation detail lol 👍👍
Good idea of the rim board being set back 2 inches. Never seen that done either! I hope you are enjoying your retirement.
Thanks Tom I am. Nice to just have one job. 👊👊
I wish you could come to Arkansas to build me a house you take pride in your work love your video’s
Thanks I would if you were closer 😊😊
Could'nt u have gone up another course and hangered your joist inside of that to keep R Value? That's how I've done it in the past
Yes Matt that is a good way to do it but this wall is like $16.00 a foot so that would cost a bunch more This project has a tight budget. 👍👍
How will you keep mice from getting into the foam?
Metal siding. 👍👍
You guy's are great
Glad I found your channel brother you got skill
Thanks I appreciate that buddy.
Should have planned a support for the half-lap...in fact, hope you put something under it. That half-lap is the obvious weak spot in the support. Nice job on the foam insulation! I like the idea.
Thanks that half lap is only spanning 66" from the chimney block pier . its a solid 8X12 pine. I Timberframe also and this is plenty strong. Thanks for the comments 😊😊
Yup that floor is going nowhere. Enjoyed seeing that double groove on the middle beam, same style of building as the good old days. How much was the half span?
Yup it is super strong. This house is 36 feet long so beams were 18 feet. thanks buddy 👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 wow that's a good size. A little over 1000 sqft, will it be a bungalow?
Rough cut is nice but I would prefer to use a BCI joist
Saved a bundle using this local sawed lumber
i gave you a like for the comedy of the winter spread
Thanks. Whats the winter spread? LOL
Ruff cut is the way to go as that is what we used in building our camp near Cocks Forest in 1960 and the saw mill delivered it and the total cost was almost nothing back then. We finished the outside walls with Homasote board at 25 cents a sheet and added several layers of oil based paint to seal using paint from the 60's and still today it still looks almost new.
A real thing of beauty there! Real nice looking two by material. Far cry from the Depot haha.
What about a post beneath the half lap? Nice joinery though I really like it.
Thanks for sharing. If you keep it up you’re gonna get a bunch of followers.
Thanks bud. I got over 9000 now. 👍 That 1/2 lap is is real solid. not nuch of a span for an 8X12 timber. Lol Cant buy that at the depot. 😁
Been building over 40 yrs in upstate NY ,have never built a beam with an unsupported splice...
Nice bondo where do u buy the nudura in NY??
My local lumber store started stocking them for me.
I was always taught to use ground contact treated lumber directly on top of the cement block walls as sill plates.
Please correct me if I'm wrong but, wouldn't it have been easier to do the full span of the floor joist starting at one end and working your way down? More room to swing the hammer for half of the anchoring to the center beam at least. I love the idea of using the foamboard on the outside of the rim joist, too bad they didn't do that when my home was built. Back in the late 1950's LOL
Yup but 24 foot lumber I would not want to handle So I don't think that would be easier. LOL Hard for us to get the 20 foot rafters. Big trees to make boards that long. 👍👍
@@bondobuilt386 I was thinking use the same method as you did (left and right halves of the floor joists). Just start at one end, put the two together, move to the next pair and repeat. I wouldn't want to be manhandling 24 foot lengths of the engineered wooden I-beams LOL
Is this project for u?
No Matt it is a camp for a guy I met.
Did you guys flip a coin to see who had to run that big ol skill saw. lol
Anyrate , i like how your doing the floor system👍insulation is cheap compared to life time heating bills.
Thanks Rod Absolutely how I look at things.👍
I like it. Well done.
Thanks 👍
where is your nail gun
We got it out to frame the walls. 👍
Wow that’s big piece of timber the beginning almost took his leg out ,that’s why we have to charge what we charge hard work , worth every penny
Yup that was some big beams we used. Strong floor system. 👍
Great job as usual pal!
thanks Jason. 😊👍
What is the size of the foundation. Would you use floor trusses instead of solid lumber on second floor so you can have open plan on the first floor. Thanks
24X36 foundation. We are framing the roof with rough cut lumber as well.
Nice! A great way to heat a house.
Thanks Tom should be sweet 😊
That is some good looking lumber.
What about between the top of wall and rejoice?
I don't know much about hemlock but I am wondering about the moisture content. You mentioned Amish- I'm interested in knowing what the current price per board/ft the locals Amish there are charging. $.25 ? Wet just sawed ponderosa pine in South Dakota is $.80 and up for dimensional and higher for 1" (which is crazy so I just walked away) Graded kiln dried is even more crazy.
So far the camp build is excellent. Good series so I hope you have time to keep filming.
The only question so far is about the foam board you laid around the outside (4' ft wide to protest the walls against frost). how does that work? Thank you
The moisture is high in this lumber but it will have all summer to dry so it will be good by fall. Im trying to keep up with filming. Our frost line here is 48” deep. the foam makes it so we dont have to build foundation so deep. the foam takes the place of that 48” of dirt. frost cant get under and heave the foundation.
@@bondobuilt386 Ah thanks- what are the Amish charging there for dimensional?
Love the insulation detail.
Thanks Dee 😊
I hope the Amish are watching lumber prices... lol
I think they are to busy cutting lumber to watch the prices. Lol
Nice video as always 👍👍
Thanks Kyle. 👊👍
I would have cut center beam in 3 pcs. Having lap joints land on supports and cutting lap joints horizontally rather than vertically. Probably a single dowel would hold it together given the lapping floor joists.
I had these beams and they were 20 feet long. That lap is only 66” from the chimney block pier. If thazt 8X12 beam sags in that distance something is wrong. Lol
@@bondobuilt386 I've no doubt what you've built will last forever it was more a manner of craftsmanship proper.
@@johnparkhurst825 Understood. We had these beams if I were to saw them special for the project I would have cut 3 - 12 footers and landed them on the chimney blocks. 👍👍
I like the way you added the foam to the outside/inside of the rim joists but I would have added caulk at the bottom rim to plate before the foam to act as a air barrier and added spray foam to the joints to completely seal all the exterior from air.
Did you forget the frame out for the access door?
No Dan we cut it out today as we put the sub floor down. 👍
That looks nice and sturdy.
thanks i think it is real solid. 👍
going to steal that great tip, thanks
great thganks for the comment. 👍
Great Build 👍
Thank you 😊
Nice work!
Thanks. 😊😊
Love the yard sign on the fork attachment at 3:22 !!!!
Big Pappa put that on there. Lol
@@bondobuilt386 I knew I liked that guy LOL
You have a floor drain in that crawl space?
No just a daylight drain around everything. its built on a hill also.
That's How We Do It. Merch. Would be awesome
Thanks Ken. 👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 shirts mugs etc..
Why bother making all this slit cut. If you're going to cross cut anyway
lack of planning. lol