Damn brother, I have learned so much watching this channel. Gotta say, I'm so glad I stumbled across it just for knowledge to do my own cabin build. Happy to be subscribed my man.. Gawd Id sure like to see how much Big Biscuit can eat at a buffet.. All the best to you boys n girl from BC Canada ✌️👍
Nice job! 👍 Not a critique but a question from a layman, is why not dig the footers into the earth as opposed to forming them on top. I can see how this would work much better with the mud situation and any water build up.
Them concrete trucks are really popular here in the UK we call them volumetric concrete trucks. They are good because you only pay for what you used & no wastage.
Never in my 50 years have I seen anyone lay plastic under a footing to prevent wicking. But it's a damn good idea man! Does several jobs at once. Wicking prevention, concrete release agent, and keep the forms clean!
Good job. Watched a concrete crew put a small channel down the center of the footer all the way around to help the rebar in keeping the wall from ever moving side to side They also dug out small pockets in the soil under the footer to prevent the footer from ever sliding in any direction. Flat bottom footers could slide very easily on top of gravel. Pushing the rebar through the footer into the dirt will allow the rebar to get wet and rust. When rebar rusts it expands with extreme force and breaks the concrete around it. Why put plastic when you puncture it with rebar.Maybe an L shaped rebar placed vertically would be better. Not slamming you just trying to help.
There is many ways to skin a cat. 👍👍 The pored floor locks everything together also. I never seen one move built like this. I been doing them this way for 30 years. Thanks I always like to hear other ideas 😊😊
Ron, why the poly? Just easier to pull forms later? And, you're placing the radiant in the concrete which will be a crawl space? No heating the floor? Do you plan to use spray foam under the concrete? Kranz road?
Hi Dan yes Kranz road. The polly is for a thermal break. will stop water from wicking into the wall. Also we will reuse the lumber and its clean 👍 Yes heated concrete floor but I'm gonna use 2" foam board.
@@bondobuilt386 when you put small rocks under the footing you made capillary brake so engineers would say poly is not necessary and some even say it may definde a purpouse , if water finds a way behind poly .
@@andreycham4797 Yes we did both the rocks and the polly. The drain I put in should keep everything pretty dry around the footer as well. 👍👍Its going to be a shallow frost protected with foam board foundation so I have a nice drain to keep the water away so nothing is wet and will freeze in winter.
Site mix is only as good as the guy operating it , It has been my experience that it's great for footings , piers , setting posts or anything you don't need a good finish on . The local guy where I live has a whole fleet of these trucks and only one or two decent operators . It can be a real pain in the arse when pouring for ICF walls . I've built a few Nudura houses . Getting the proper mix for ICF is most important , So far I'm not impressed with this guy but the boss won't switch suppliers because the guy he uses has a pump and he's related to him , sooner of later they are going to have a major form blowout . I'd stick to plant batched stuff for finished work or ICF's .
Thanks for the insight Steve. I think I will slowly work into using this truck. I like it for footers and small pours so you only pay for exactly what you use. This machine is brand new also so maybe the tecnology is better. This had a computer on board and had to set all the peramiters for the mix like water content of aggregate and stuff. This new company has a bunch of regular trucks also so I got them working on mix design for my flat work. The owner seems like a guy thats listens to his customers also and I like that. He came out to the job to chat and is looking for feedback. . 👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 They are perfect for small work . We used them in Toronto way back in late 70's . The fact that this rig has a batch computer on board will certainly help , if you have a good operator that knows the machine makes a huge difference .
lot of segragation in those type trucks , might loose volume at the end gain in begining or oppisite i forget lol, used to pull gradations on those all failed, good news does not mater ahahah just number s get it done ahahha
Another good one Bondo. Did you use the portable mixer, so you only have to pay for what you use? As opposed to estimating. I thought the mixer in the excavator bucket was going to be a slow process, but worked really well. You don’t need Uncle Jim if you have Big Papa!
Uncle Jim 😊😊 Big Papa is a good carpenter. He is gonna help me this summer. 👍 We have poured footers this way before. He has a bigger bucket thats even faster. That truck was the truck available that day but I really liked that it only mixes what we needed no waste. 👍👍
Yes it will! That poly installed in that manner will for sure hold on the water! Under ground like that there is more surface water that will fall through the soil than will come up through the earth!
No the rebar will not rust out. The plastic is just a capillary break to keep footer from wicking ups water. You actually want a place for water to escape if it somehow gets in there.
Hey Bondo I'm trying to learn and I'm trying to learn right but no matter what I do I can't make the dots connect on this so I have to ask it directly. May be silly but sometimes we all have a question. So I'm wondering this - say we take an example of a frost line depth of 24" and code requires 12" below frost line. This makes a combined 36" obviously. Now when you dig down 36" to pour the footing - say your footing is 18" wide. Do you have to pour 18" wide all the way to the surface? For a dimension of 18"x36"x feet in length. Or can you pour a 12"x8"-12"x feet in length footing and then build a block wall 2'8" and fill around the block wall back in, then build on that. I guess what I'm getting at is depth of the pour required (not how deep you need to dig, how thick is the pour requirement) when there is a frost line. I ask because if it is required to pour from frost line to grade 36"-48" or even more, that seems like an excessive amount of concrete just to build a house on. It's codified as well so even for small things that would never need such support it will be required. Please tell me you can pour thinner and build blocks on it haha.
The footer is wider than the wall to distribute the load. most footers are going to be 10" thick and 20 to 24" wide. the depth of the wall including the thickness of the footer needs to be below the frost line depth unless you protect the footing from the frost with foam insulation and then the wall/ footer combo does not have to be so deep because the foam board takes the place of all that extra dirt. Hope that makes sense.
@@bondobuilt386 wow thank you so much!! Yea that makes total sense and seems like the foam also does a small bit if there does happen to be any soil movement to sort of dampen or cushion it's effect. You know that's also something not many people talk about or do. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question and provide even more insight! Best wishes and I hope you and your family and crew have a safe, lucrative, and successful 2024!!
@@bondobuilt386 Oh yea one more sort of technical one this time - since the load bearing value of the soil is one of the factors that determines footing thickness, when you dig your trench below frost line - let's say for some reason the soil is compacted to 2000psi (I know at that depth it's impossible but this will help me connect some other dots that I'm not asking about) so if the soil in the trench is only 2000 - theoretically the soil on either side of it is as well. Let's say I bring the space to where the footing is to 4000 psi - the surrounding soil that will surround the footing is still 2000 psi. Will there be any issues presented due to that? This is still in a below the frost line scenario. Furthermore will this create any water drainage issues having highly compacted soil completely around less compacted? Is there anything I need to be aware of as far as that thought process goes?
What are all the coloured liquids on the side of the truck for? I am guessing, retarders, accelerators, and super plasticizers, I have never seen them and don't know what they actually look like so just a wild guess.
Hey Bondo Well that's how I used to do them now I build forms our of foam to create a fully insulated footing and foundation. Current house I'm building is over 1 million lbs. Sitting on 12 inches of foam and 12 inches under basement slab unfortunately changed plans midway and only have 6 inches under garage slab. 2.5 lb geofoam under footings and 1 lb under slabs. Only really needed 2 lb under footing but leave it to engineers to over do things and cost you extra money. Only plus to 2.5 lb foam is temp screws hold better but it's totally unnecessary. BTW foam is eps with r value of about 4 per inch. Yup about r 50 under the house. If y'all think that's overkill it's all radiant heated floors so the delta t is about 45 to 55 f depending on weather. We also run cold water through the floors starting late spring and through the summer. We can get the cold water from a ground loop outside or from the air to water heat pump.
I must have missed it but is the infloor heating going to be the space in that crawl space? Will you be putting foam on that ground first? I have spray foamed one 2 inch pass on gravel prior to a concrete poor for basements. Would definitely make the in floor heating more efficient.
We will use 2” board foam under this slab to save a fews bucks from spray foam. Then run out heat tubing. This is a camp and a tight budget for the project. 👍👍😊
That truck is a neat trick if your site is a distance from the concrete supplier! No more concrete that's beenm churning in the truck for half an hour before it reaches the front gate! Probably easier to deal with if someone orders too much, too. You only mix what you need.
Hey Bondo Built, would you please provide a link to that monolithic pour frostproof website. I'm in northern WI and want to get this right. Here comes the mud!
Anybody else questioning the math? Was it four inches to the wall or 4.5? Does half of 11 equal 5.5 ? Are the inside dimensions now off by a half inch on each wall ?
@@bondobuilt386 genius why it take this long to invent that we always just order extra and waste it. Your videos are top notch bondo very well done. And explain everything very well
At about 7:45 you say the poly is going in as a thermal break! Maybe you misspoke.... Because poly is not a thermal break of any kind! Maybe a vapor barrier but not a thermal break😲
Can’t imagine this method of concrete mixture is worth the trouble. I’ve hauled concrete for 9 years. Mixes should have a minimum revolutions which doesn’t appear to be the case here. Based on this job site a traditional concrete truck should be more than capable to tailgate this.
Just curious if the owner of that new mix truck won't allow it to move around a jobsite? A regular truck could have moved around the site eliminating the need for the excavator to place the mix. Unless of course those rocks from hell were in the way.
Hi Ron, do you ever put drainage lines through the footers to allow any water under the slab to drain out to the French drain on the exterior of the footing? I’ve seen recommendations of embedding a 4” pipe segment through every 10’ of the footer. Maybe would require extra reinforcement? Thanks!
Nice to see how you guys get it done and what you have to deal with , here in so Cali we are all about earthquakes which we hardly ever have , so lots of money down the drain for homewoner, a bunch of steel that is overkill and a ton of useless inspections, meanwhile you go to a home 100 yrs old on a 4 inch slab , no reinforcement no fancy brackets or hold downs, steel , just bedrock and the home is in prestine condition
@@fuddavis1993 We run bar right to the top of the wall. We put dowels in footer every 18" to 22" then slide full length rods in wall after its up to the top. at same spot as dowels. 😊
It is very good for remote work that is far away from a batch plant because the concrete is fresh and therefore requires much less water than a truck coming from a far away batch plant. You get better concrete with less water.
You use hook dowels. 👍👍They are not required here. We dont have to worry about uplift We do not have huracanes or tornados in my area. Thanks for the comment. 👊👊
You guys don't have many stone slingers up there do you? I worked in western NY (Dunkirk) for a couple of years and we would haul gravel in the mixer with the conveyor on it to stone the drains around foundations and sometimes the floors.
I've asked you this question before. Do you need to do this for a pole barn if it's slab-on-grade also? My dad lives in Northern Vermont and the guy put a foundation around his garage and then poured the cement inside. I'm thinking if you don't do that you'll crack the cement for a pole barn. Thanks for the awesome video . I'm thinking where I want the pole barn then might be ledge
We do not do this for a pole barn we do them all the time and just pour arouind thge poles. If its heated we put the foam down under the slab and insulate the slab edge just the thickness of slab. We have a real cold area and a 48” frost line but the pole barns are floating slabs. I have several pole barn videos that we preped I’ll send you one or to bud. 👍 This is a foundation and will hold up the building. A pole barn the poles hold everything.
@@bondobuilt386 love how everyone tells you what you should and shouldn't do boss , yet your are working and kicking ass lol , love the content from one contractor to another , you do great work sir , keep it up 🙏
@@jessedukelacrosse6470You gonna tell that to someone who accidentally skewers themselves on the rebar? “Oh don’t worry we weren’t required to because it’s residential.” Caution tape doesn’t protect you from getting skewered. It’s meant to give caution not to offer protection.
Would it be ok to do this footer in sections? Say you just wanted to do 12 feet at a time because you're hand mixing and want to tackle it over multiple days or even weeks, can you have each new pour butt up to the previous one?
Where is the inspection? You can’t stab your rebar into the ground! That’s why inspectors make you tie your vertical bar up before you pour your mud so you don’t do exactly what you are doing!
So basic it's frustrating to watch. 1. Talked about excavating further out from the footer framing: Why? 2. Talked about putting down insulation to prevent frost. Never showed it being installed. 3. Never explained how to set/adjust height of footer framing. 4. Showed, but never explained the necessity of using the gravel compactor for the footing gravel. 5. Talked "dropping in" the rebar! Otherwise, if time permits they would be hung. So, what's the difference? 6. How far apart/how high are the vertical rebar pieces placed in the newly poured footer? etc., etc. Too many references to Big Biscuit, Big Papa, et; al. Enough, already!
I think you should start a RUclips Chanel Larry and do 290 videos like I did and show the world how it is done so someone can criticize you. I'm sure your videos would be much better than mine with the list you just made. LOL
Take it easy boys, Larry is just trying to get the details and Bond does not have time to give them. Larry take what Bond gives you and find the details you need, some where else. I understand both of your views, good luck.
2 big fat thumbs up👍👍. You guys make this look easy. Good job!
Thanks for that Rod. I appreciate that buddy. 👍👍
At last finally found a video explaining this. Thank you.
I like that you don’t have to order extra concrete with that truck. Nice job as always
Thanks Ed. I like that also. It already saved 2 yards of concrete. Thats $300 👍
Volumetric truck nice
Damn brother, I have learned so much watching this channel. Gotta say, I'm so glad I stumbled across it just for knowledge to do my own cabin build. Happy to be subscribed my man.. Gawd Id sure like to see how much Big Biscuit can eat at a buffet.. All the best to you boys n girl from BC Canada ✌️👍
That’s hard work!!!
Nice job! 👍 Not a critique but a question from a layman, is why not dig the footers into the earth as opposed to forming them on top. I can see how this would work much better with the mud situation and any water build up.
Yes water mud and huge rocks on this job. All that bad dirt out ad good well drained stone and gravel put back in.
Them concrete trucks are really popular here in the UK we call them volumetric concrete trucks.
They are good because you only pay for what you used & no wastage.
Never in my 50 years have I seen anyone lay plastic under a footing to prevent wicking.
But it's a damn good idea man!
Does several jobs at once.
Wicking prevention, concrete release agent, and keep the forms clean!
Yes Mike thanks I think I will do it every time now. 👍😊
Driving the rebar thru the plastic No no
@@edjones8706 The footer was pretty hard and 10" thick.
There is a product called FastFoot - very easy to use.
@@anonymousbyproxy8250 yes I have seen that product. 👍
Good stuff !!
I thought this video was about hooters...nope footers😁
Lmao 😂
Are inspectors pretty quick to keep your work rolling?
Good job.
Watched a concrete crew put a small channel down the center of the footer all the way around to help the rebar in keeping the wall from ever moving side to side They also dug out small pockets in the soil under the footer to prevent the footer from ever sliding in any direction. Flat bottom footers could slide very easily on top of gravel.
Pushing the rebar through the footer into the dirt will allow the rebar to get wet and rust. When rebar rusts it expands with extreme force and breaks the concrete around it.
Why put plastic when you puncture it with rebar.Maybe an L shaped rebar placed vertically would be better.
Not slamming you just trying to help.
There is many ways to skin a cat. 👍👍 The pored floor locks everything together also. I never seen one move built like this. I been doing them this way for 30 years. Thanks I always like to hear other ideas 😊😊
I would use rebar caps for safety.
Working in the rain and mud sucks huge ass. Hot and dry is better but not by much. :)
Where did you get the name big biscuit from? Around here everyone has nicknames as well.
Ron, why the poly? Just easier to pull forms later?
And, you're placing the radiant in the concrete which will be a crawl space? No heating the floor? Do you plan to use spray foam under the concrete? Kranz road?
Hi Dan yes Kranz road. The polly is for a thermal break. will stop water from wicking into the wall. Also we will reuse the lumber and its clean 👍
Yes heated concrete floor but I'm gonna use 2" foam board.
@@bondobuilt386 do you mean capillary break?
@@andreycham4797 Yes thats what I mean. 👍👍
@@bondobuilt386 when you put small rocks under the footing you made capillary brake so engineers would say poly is not necessary and some even say it may definde a purpouse , if water finds a way behind poly .
@@andreycham4797 Yes we did both the rocks and the polly. The drain I put in should keep everything pretty dry around the footer as well. 👍👍Its going to be a shallow frost protected with foam board foundation so I have a nice drain to keep the water away so nothing is wet and will freeze in winter.
I have a question. When pouring a monolithic wall foundation how do you get the spreaders out?or do you just leave them there.
We leave them in there
Site mix is only as good as the guy operating it , It has been my experience that it's great for footings , piers , setting posts or anything you don't need a good finish on . The local guy where I live has a whole fleet of these trucks and only one or two decent operators . It can be a real pain in the arse when pouring for ICF walls . I've built a few Nudura houses . Getting the proper mix for ICF is most important , So far I'm not impressed with this guy but the boss won't switch suppliers because the guy he uses has a pump and he's related to him , sooner of later they are going to have a major form blowout . I'd stick to plant batched stuff for finished work or ICF's .
Thanks for the insight Steve. I think I will slowly work into using this truck. I like it for footers and small pours so you only pay for exactly what you use. This machine is brand new also so maybe the tecnology is better. This had a computer on board and had to set all the peramiters for the mix like water content of aggregate and stuff. This new company has a bunch of regular trucks also so I got them working on mix design for my flat work. The owner seems like a guy thats listens to his customers also and I like that. He came out to the job to chat and is looking for feedback. . 👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 They are perfect for small work . We used them in Toronto way back in late 70's . The fact that this rig has a batch computer on board will certainly help , if you have a good operator that knows the machine makes a huge difference .
lot of segragation in those type trucks , might loose volume at the end gain in begining or oppisite i forget lol, used to pull gradations on those all failed, good news does not mater ahahah just number s get it done ahahha
pull some 4 by 8 compression cylinders for strength test s, 3000 mix design strength is 4200 , forget formula been long time since designing mixs oops
love the poly and good for hot summers too, ur great in doing it for wicking prevention
It hardened up good at the end. LOL 👊😁
Another good one Bondo. Did you use the portable mixer, so you only have to pay for what you use? As opposed to estimating. I thought the mixer in the excavator bucket was going to be a slow process, but worked really well. You don’t need Uncle Jim if you have Big Papa!
Uncle Jim 😊😊 Big Papa is a good carpenter. He is gonna help me this summer. 👍 We have poured footers this way before. He has a bigger bucket thats even faster. That truck was the truck available that day but I really liked that it only mixes what we needed no waste. 👍👍
Wouldn't that plastic trap as much moisture against the footer as it keeps out?
No I do not think so.
Yes it will! That poly installed in that manner will for sure hold on the water! Under ground like that there is more surface water that will fall through the soil than will come up through the earth!
Site mix seems good to dial in your slump, right? I didn't see you test it or mention what you got.
We poured these footers at about a 4” to 5’ slump.
I'll put Bondo inspired in the footer when I pour mine lol.
Thanks Matt that would be sweet 😊😁
Taking a shot every time he says “big biscuit” will update after unless I forget.
Question... wouldn’t punching the rebar like that compromise the poly and now be prone to rusting out?
No the rebar will not rust out. The plastic is just a capillary break to keep footer from wicking ups water. You actually want a place for water to escape if it somehow gets in there.
Yes the rebar in not supposed to touch the ground! For uncoated rebar there should be at least 2 inches of concrete encasing the bar, sometimes more.
I like the idea of paying for only what u use, never being short 2 wheelbarrows would be great.
Hi Matt. Yes that was a good deal not wasting anything. 👍👍
Where'd you find a woman that can tie rebar??
She is actually a tennant of mine. She is a hell of a worker. 👍👍
Looks like it! I've always done footers pretty much just like that, except without the poly in the forms 👍
@@brockwagner939 The polly is first for me too. I like to change as I learn new things. 👍👍
Hey Bondo I'm trying to learn and I'm trying to learn right but no matter what I do I can't make the dots connect on this so I have to ask it directly. May be silly but sometimes we all have a question.
So I'm wondering this - say we take an example of a frost line depth of 24" and code requires 12" below frost line. This makes a combined 36" obviously. Now when you dig down 36" to pour the footing - say your footing is 18" wide. Do you have to pour 18" wide all the way to the surface? For a dimension of 18"x36"x feet in length. Or can you pour a 12"x8"-12"x feet in length footing and then build a block wall 2'8" and fill around the block wall back in, then build on that. I guess what I'm getting at is depth of the pour required (not how deep you need to dig, how thick is the pour requirement) when there is a frost line.
I ask because if it is required to pour from frost line to grade 36"-48" or even more, that seems like an excessive amount of concrete just to build a house on. It's codified as well so even for small things that would never need such support it will be required. Please tell me you can pour thinner and build blocks on it haha.
The footer is wider than the wall to distribute the load. most footers are going to be 10" thick and 20 to 24" wide. the depth of the wall including the thickness of the footer needs to be below the frost line depth unless you protect the footing from the frost with foam insulation and then the wall/ footer combo does not have to be so deep because the foam board takes the place of all that extra dirt. Hope that makes sense.
@@bondobuilt386 wow thank you so much!! Yea that makes total sense and seems like the foam also does a small bit if there does happen to be any soil movement to sort of dampen or cushion it's effect. You know that's also something not many people talk about or do.
I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question and provide even more insight! Best wishes and I hope you and your family and crew have a safe, lucrative, and successful 2024!!
@@bondobuilt386 Oh yea one more sort of technical one this time - since the load bearing value of the soil is one of the factors that determines footing thickness, when you dig your trench below frost line - let's say for some reason the soil is compacted to 2000psi (I know at that depth it's impossible but this will help me connect some other dots that I'm not asking about) so if the soil in the trench is only 2000 - theoretically the soil on either side of it is as well. Let's say I bring the space to where the footing is to 4000 psi - the surrounding soil that will surround the footing is still 2000 psi. Will there be any issues presented due to that? This is still in a below the frost line scenario. Furthermore will this create any water drainage issues having highly compacted soil completely around less compacted? Is there anything I need to be aware of as far as that thought process goes?
What are all the coloured liquids on the side of the truck for? I am guessing, retarders, accelerators, and super plasticizers, I have never seen them and don't know what they actually look like so just a wild guess.
Hey Bondo
Well that's how I used to do them now I build forms our of foam to create a fully insulated footing and foundation. Current house I'm building is over 1 million lbs. Sitting on 12 inches of foam and 12 inches under basement slab unfortunately changed plans midway and only have 6 inches under garage slab. 2.5 lb geofoam under footings and 1 lb under slabs. Only really needed 2 lb under footing but leave it to engineers to over do things and cost you extra money. Only plus to 2.5 lb foam is temp screws hold better but it's totally unnecessary. BTW foam is eps with r value of about 4 per inch. Yup about r 50 under the house. If y'all think that's overkill it's all radiant heated floors so the delta t is about 45 to 55 f depending on weather. We also run cold water through the floors starting late spring and through the summer. We can get the cold water from a ground loop outside or from the air to water heat pump.
Thats awesome. I like the cooled floors idea.
thank you for showing us what you do. we are in Michigan and have to gut our basement and trying to tigure out if we can do it ourselves
Your welcome. I have to fix one for my brother that is falling in too. Its a stone basement. Gonna be a pain. 😊
what I.C.F block do you recommend for a basement foundation ?
@@shawncindy3434 Nudura. Check out my videos from last year we did a bunch with Nudura.
I must have missed it but is the infloor heating going to be the space in that crawl space? Will you be putting foam on that ground first? I have spray foamed one 2 inch pass on gravel prior to a concrete poor for basements. Would definitely make the in floor heating more efficient.
We will use 2” board foam under this slab to save a fews bucks from spray foam. Then run out heat tubing. This is a camp and a tight budget for the project. 👍👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 make sure yo at least tape the joints between the boards, I'm sure you already know this lol. That's an awesome project you have.
@@SinnisjInsulator Thanks bud. Should be a fun project. 👍👍
@@bondobuilt386 looks that way.
@@SinnisjInsulator 👍
Would the rebar being driven into the ground rust, and would the rust travel up into the concrete, making the concrete crack?
Shouldn't dowels have a 90 degree bend and tied to the footing steel and not just pounded in
Good thing you don't have any little people on your crew. Every is Bondo Big.
Ya we are Jim. LOL 👍👍
That truck is a neat trick if your site is a distance from the concrete supplier! No more concrete that's beenm churning in the truck for half an hour before it reaches the front gate!
Probably easier to deal with if someone orders too much, too. You only mix what you need.
It has its advantages 👍
Learned so much from this video.
Can a shallow frost monolithic slab work well in RI for a 32x32 two story garage build? Thanks
It can work anywhere in the country. You just need to have the correct amount of foam for your area. There is a table online you can reference.
Hey Bondo Built, would you please provide a link to that monolithic pour frostproof website. I'm in northern WI and want to get this right.
Here comes the mud!
Anybody else questioning the math?
Was it four inches to the wall or 4.5?
Does half of 11 equal 5.5 ?
Are the inside dimensions now off by a half inch on each wall ?
That was just a quick dry lie to mark the center of the hole in the block. There is a 6” space to jab those bars in. They will be perfect.
Sounds good.
I'm learning a lot.
@@SciPunk215 Awesome glad I can help ya. 👍
How far are the rebar apart that she is hammering in
Sorry, I'm not sure you know what a frost-protected shallow foundation means, where is your foam layer?
ruclips.net/video/apxjP4EjnGE/видео.html 14:45
I'm wondering why you tied the horizontal rebar off the ground yet hammered the uprights into the ground?
The horizontal bars are for the strength of the footer the vertical bars just keep the wall locked to the footer so it don't shift.
Hey Ron how much more cost per yard is with this truck from ready mix? nice work ! Holler out to the big Biscuit !
Hi there. The company gave me a good price. It was less then I payed last year. 👍👍 I'll tell Biscuit 😊
Meany used to have one of those trucks that mix in the shoot. The concrete never amounted to much but he probably used silty gravel.
Ya thats no good Greg. 👎👎
Mixing trucks can be good but operator is everything to get a decent mix
I see that. This one had a computer on it to set everything.
We have those trucks all over Washington DC, but never seen one with a pressure washer built in. They are handy trucks for certain jobs!
Yes They are quite handy it seams. Once they dial that slump in. 👍😊
Hey bondo
Hi 👍
Where you from
@@rubenvarela4077 Upstate New York. 45 minutes north of Syracuse.
@@bondobuilt386 ok thanks South Texas here
@@rubenvarela4077 you bet 👍
Hi Bondo, is Jess your sister? ... I want to marry her, such a pretty and hardworking woman! 👀😊😉👍
That’s how we do it in Michigan. So the aggregate remains dry in that truck and only batch out what’s needed? Have not seen that style of truck yet
Yes it mixes everything in the back of truck. 👍👍
@@bondobuilt386 genius why it take this long to invent that we always just order extra and waste it. Your videos are top notch bondo very well done. And explain everything very well
Used these dry concrete trucks in gunite pool building alot.
Awesome I'm thinking this truck will save me money this year not wasting any concrete. 👍👍
At about 7:45 you say the poly is going in as a thermal break! Maybe you misspoke.... Because poly is not a thermal break of any kind! Maybe a vapor barrier but not a thermal break😲
Can’t imagine this method of concrete mixture is worth the trouble. I’ve hauled concrete for 9 years. Mixes should have a minimum revolutions which doesn’t appear to be the case here. Based on this job site a traditional concrete truck should be more than capable to tailgate this.
Great video. Do you cut the Poly back or just leave it?
we ended up cutting it after the pour. 😊
Bondo, what area of upstate NY are you working? Nice job, thanks
Thanks buddy. I live in Mexico New York. 45 minutes North of Syracuse. 😊
@@bondobuilt386 Thanks, I live in Walton NY Delaware County and building a Nudura house now. I like your site, thanks
@@neustif Awesome are you going all the way up or just the basement? My videos should be helpful 👍
@@bondobuilt386 All the way to trusses, and thanks, your videos do help
@@neustif Awesome 👍
Nice work to see thank you for the video and thumbs UP. :)
Thanks for the comment Richard. 👍
Does all water and soft ground effects the concrete S in settling
Yes wet ground and clay dirt can effect concrete a lot.
I do shotcrete with those trucks 5days a week
Just curious if the owner of that new mix truck won't allow it to move around a jobsite? A regular truck could have moved around the site eliminating the need for the excavator to place the mix. Unless of course those rocks from hell were in the way.
Hi Ron, do you ever put drainage lines through the footers to allow any water under the slab to drain out to the French drain on the exterior of the footing? I’ve seen recommendations of embedding a 4” pipe segment through every 10’ of the footer. Maybe would require extra reinforcement? Thanks!
Will that be enough to heat the living space completely
Yes Pat it sure will. 👍👍We are going to insulate it real good.
Hi Ron, looking forward to this camp build. Been a long winter without concrete!
Thanks Tom. We're gonna ge pouring a bunch this year buddy. 👍😊😊
How far down did you excavate to then set the footers?
About 32” on this one Michael.
Great to see that you are starting a new project 👍🏻👍🏻 I still have two feet of snow on my property or I would be starting my build
big biscuit count 27
What is wrong with your lens?
Things get really scratched up filming in the mud and dirt all the time. I go through a case every few months it seams. Time for another. 😩
How many yards?
Nice to see how you guys get it done and what you have to deal with , here in so Cali we are all about earthquakes which we hardly ever have , so lots of money down the drain for homewoner, a bunch of steel that is overkill and a ton of useless inspections, meanwhile you go to a home 100 yrs old on a 4 inch slab , no reinforcement no fancy brackets or hold downs, steel , just bedrock and the home is in prestine condition
"Just put the rod in the hole"....LMAO. She's got a sense of humour.
Love the plastic around footer. Should be code everywhere
Thanks Adam. 👍😊
But, You penetrated the plastic with some 124 vertikal rebars, that will rust away😂
Out of curiosity what is the height, and spacing of your dowels? Great videos! Love the content.
Rob the dowels are 2 foot on center and like 30 " high. The wall will be 2 blocks and 36" tall
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for the reply! Is 30” standard for all walls? Would you use 30” for a 8’ wall? Thanks
@@fuddavis1993 We run bar right to the top of the wall. We put dowels in footer every 18" to 22" then slide full length rods in wall after its up to the top. at same spot as dowels. 😊
Is this style of concrete truck ideal for remote work?
I dont think so. I think it would get stuck.
It is very good for remote work that is far away from a batch plant because the concrete is fresh and therefore requires much less water than a truck coming from a far away batch plant. You get better concrete with less water.
Great work, fun with family
Ya we enjoy this work. 👍😊
Great content brother, concrete is one thing we haven’t got into , always sub it out but recently having trouble getting them in timely manner
These thumbnails get me every time !
LOL and we poured some concrete.
What's the "we" shit? 😜
LMAO ya no kidding.
When we do our footings , we have a 90 degree angle tail that goes in the footing to lock the rebar in
You use hook dowels. 👍👍They are not required here. We dont have to worry about uplift We do not have huracanes or tornados in my area. Thanks for the comment. 👊👊
You guys do excellent work
Thanks Shane. 👍
Bondo you sure she didn't hammer those rebar into the ground that a no no
You guys don't have many stone slingers up there do you? I worked in western NY (Dunkirk) for a couple of years and we would haul gravel in the mixer with the conveyor on it to stone the drains around foundations and sometimes the floors.
There are some slingers but they charge a fortune for the machine and you need to buy there expensive stone also.
I've asked you this question before. Do you need to do this for a pole barn if it's slab-on-grade also? My dad lives in Northern Vermont and the guy put a foundation around his garage and then poured the cement inside. I'm thinking if you don't do that you'll crack the cement for a pole barn. Thanks for the awesome video . I'm thinking where I want the pole barn then might be ledge
We do not do this for a pole barn we do them all the time and just pour arouind thge poles. If its heated we put the foam down under the slab and insulate the slab edge just the thickness of slab. We have a real cold area and a 48” frost line but the pole barns are floating slabs. I have several pole barn videos that we preped I’ll send you one or to bud. 👍 This is a foundation and will hold up the building. A pole barn the poles hold everything.
ruclips.net/video/JcBpTpNxneI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/gVxCKcWDF3w/видео.html
Just to be clear you can build a garage with frost walls but that would not be a pole barn. We do them as well with Nudura.
ruclips.net/video/2gGS4KWHiCc/видео.html This is a garage we did.
Great videos! Thanks
Wait 2 in the middle of a poore when the computer board strews up on the concrete truck A buddy of mine run 1 of those trucks
You need to check your own Computer Board.
Orange safety caps need to be on rebar please for everyone’s safety. Great content
Thanks
No not really or not for residential, caution tape just fine , or you can get many soda cans , plastic bottles and you are golden 👍
@@bondobuilt386 love how everyone tells you what you should and shouldn't do boss , yet your are working and kicking ass lol , love the content from one contractor to another , you do great work sir , keep it up 🙏
@@jessedukelacrosse6470You gonna tell that to someone who accidentally skewers themselves on the rebar?
“Oh don’t worry we weren’t required to because it’s residential.”
Caution tape doesn’t protect you from getting skewered.
It’s meant to give caution not to offer protection.
Sweet job guys
Thanks Ralph 👍👍
Maybe he can't hear to well?
Rocky land 😮
I didn't know can flip buckets
Thanks
Awesome video !
No hooks on your verticals?
Amateur
Would it be ok to do this footer in sections? Say you just wanted to do 12 feet at a time because you're hand mixing and want to tackle it over multiple days or even weeks, can you have each new pour butt up to the previous one?
Where is the inspection? You can’t stab your rebar into the ground! That’s why inspectors make you tie your vertical bar up before you pour your mud so you don’t do exactly what you are doing!
say Hy to Sean Butler for me next time you see him
Will do Greg. 👍
0/
So basic it's frustrating to watch.
1. Talked about excavating further out from the footer framing: Why?
2. Talked about putting down insulation to prevent frost. Never showed it being installed.
3. Never explained how to set/adjust height of footer framing.
4. Showed, but never explained the necessity of using the gravel compactor for the footing gravel.
5. Talked "dropping in" the rebar! Otherwise, if time permits they would be hung. So, what's the difference?
6. How far apart/how high are the vertical rebar pieces placed in the newly poured footer?
etc., etc.
Too many references to Big Biscuit, Big Papa, et; al. Enough, already!
I think you should start a RUclips Chanel Larry and do 290 videos like I did and show the world how it is done so someone can criticize you. I'm sure your videos would be much better than mine with the list you just made. LOL
Take it easy boys, Larry is just trying to get the details and Bond does not have time to give them. Larry take what Bond gives you and find the details you need, some where else. I understand both of your views, good luck.