Really well done video for us DIYers working in the driveway. I've owned and worked on two Pilots over 15 years, and spent a year as an auto tech and have seen a few brake jobs. Thought I had found all the Pilot brake videos on RUclips, but just found this one June/2023...go figure. Some good comments from others below as well. For rear brakes, I put jack under center suspension (where we change rear diff fluid) and have a jack stand near the tire on the crimp beneath the rocker panel where they are designed to go. I do agree with using silicone only on both the slider pins and I try to clean up the "boot" as well, it's when those crack caliper hell begins. I spend probably more time than I should wire brushing anything I can to get rid of loose rust on hub, bolt threads (gently), the bracket, etc and then waste a little more Brake Kleen. I'll even hit the parking brake area to clean out old rust and dust that's lying around. Good to see you did not put any "goo" under or on top of the brake hardware. They make the clips out of stainless steel so they never rust and the goo just attracts more crap. If the bracket is really rusted, I might brush and put a little on the bracket "under" the hardware. The goo on the ears of the pads themselves really isn't needed either, except a few aftermarket brands can be tight fits. Thanks for putting this out there.
Just a heads up. The screws in the rotor that you need to use an impact to get out are there to keep the rotors in place on the assembly line. They’re super soft metal that will get damaged trying to break them out like 90% of the time. A lug nut will keep it in place while you’re changing the pads and your wheel will do it when mounted. Do yourself a favor and toss them when you get them out don’t put them back. Also, if you strip the head of them just get a 1/4” drill bit and drill it out if a bolt extractor fails.
I replaced my 016 Honda Pilot front/rear rotors and pads without any problem after watching your video. Adjusting parking brake was owesome tip. Appreciate your video!
Great video! First time anyone shows those spacers/washers for the caliper bracket, didn't know they are supposed to be there. Might explain the brake squeal on one side...
When installing the rotor screws, put some anti seize on it. Next time it will come off with ease. also, you can use anti seize on the back off the rotor too.
Great video. What year Pilot did you do this on? I was going to do this for my 2016 Pilot touring model. Just wondering if it’s the same procedure as you show.
Thanks. This was done on a 2013, so it would be slightly different. The overall procedure would be similar but parts and torque specs would be different.
Great video 2 questions is that parking brake adjuster on both rear wheels or just one? Also when compressing the caliper to put the new pads on do you have to remove the cap on the master cylinder ?
Yes there is an adjuster for each side. As far removing the reservoir cap, you can remove it if you want, but I don’t believe it’s necessary unless you need to remove fluid if it’s in danger of overflowing. That likely won’t be an issue unless at some point the fluid was topped off with very worn brake pads. Thanks for watching!
I agree with you, but with the way the Pilot is built it’s difficult to use jack stands because there is only a small jack point, and when raised by the jack, it can be tricky to put a stand under at the same time. I’ve been able to do it on the front as can be seen in my video on replacing a sway bar end link, but have not done it on the rear. I definitely would never crawl under a vehicle only supported by a jack and this job did not require that. Thanks for watching!
I have personally never used loc-tire on these types of bolts. As far as a torque wrench, I typically use one on certain other applications like those involving aluminum or engine parts, but do not use one here. If you’d like to use one I believe the torque for the rear caliper bracket bolts is 65 ft-lbs.
@@stuffyoucando2 Just bought the lady a Pilot, I'm the mechanic. I'm familiar with both drum and disc but this is the first time I've seen both. I've never worked on anything newer than 2011 though. Basically more things to go wrong haha! Nonetheless, thank you for your time!
thalegacy6 gotcha, yeah it seems pretty common now. My 2014 F-150 even has the same setup and I had an ‘04 Grand Cherokee with it as well. As long as your familiar with both setups it’s no problem at all, just remember to adjust the parking brake shoes in and don’t engage the brake before trying to take the rotor off.
I didn't read other comments. Who noticed that the pads he took off had over half the meat still on them? Maybe this was for educational purposes? It is a really good video. I use a C clap to push the caliper piston back in.
If you’ll notice there’s other pertinent information provided during that part of the video. If that’s not worth paying attention to then I guess you don’t need to be watching the video, or maybe you could go ahead and make your own that excludes that?
Really well done video for us DIYers working in the driveway. I've owned and worked on two Pilots over 15 years, and spent a year as an auto tech and have seen a few brake jobs. Thought I had found all the Pilot brake videos on RUclips, but just found this one June/2023...go figure. Some good comments from others below as well. For rear brakes, I put jack under center suspension (where we change rear diff fluid) and have a jack stand near the tire on the crimp beneath the rocker panel where they are designed to go. I do agree with using silicone only on both the slider pins and I try to clean up the "boot" as well, it's when those crack caliper hell begins. I spend probably more time than I should wire brushing anything I can to get rid of loose rust on hub, bolt threads (gently), the bracket, etc and then waste a little more Brake Kleen. I'll even hit the parking brake area to clean out old rust and dust that's lying around. Good to see you did not put any "goo" under or on top of the brake hardware. They make the clips out of stainless steel so they never rust and the goo just attracts more crap. If the bracket is really rusted, I might brush and put a little on the bracket "under" the hardware. The goo on the ears of the pads themselves really isn't needed either, except a few aftermarket brands can be tight fits. Thanks for putting this out there.
Thanks for the extra tips!
Just a heads up. The screws in the rotor that you need to use an impact to get out are there to keep the rotors in place on the assembly line. They’re super soft metal that will get damaged trying to break them out like 90% of the time. A lug nut will keep it in place while you’re changing the pads and your wheel will do it when mounted. Do yourself a favor and toss them when you get them out don’t put them back. Also, if you strip the head of them just get a 1/4” drill bit and drill it out if a bolt extractor fails.
I replaced my 016 Honda Pilot front/rear rotors and pads without any problem after watching your video. Adjusting parking brake was owesome tip. Appreciate your video!
Awesome, glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
very helpful. Great tip on the parking brake and how to adjust it.
Thanks, I’m glad it was helpful!
great call on the impact screwdriver. Thanks for posting the video!
Thanks for watching, I’m glad it was helpful!
Great video! First time anyone shows those spacers/washers for the caliper bracket, didn't know they are supposed to be there. Might explain the brake squeal on one side...
Thanks! Yeah, I wanted to make sure to show it because they tend to fall out during the process.
@@stuffyoucando2 How do you like the Raybestos Element EHT?
So far so good, no issues or squeaks with several thousand miles on them.
When installing the rotor screws, put some anti seize on it. Next time it will come off with ease. also, you can use anti seize on the back off the rotor too.
Great video. What year Pilot did you do this on? I was going to do this for my 2016 Pilot touring model. Just wondering if it’s the same procedure as you show.
Thanks. This was done on a 2013, so it would be slightly different. The overall procedure would be similar but parts and torque specs would be different.
Great video 2 questions is that parking brake adjuster on both rear wheels or just one? Also when compressing the caliper to put the new pads on do you have to remove the cap on the master cylinder ?
Yes there is an adjuster for each side. As far removing the reservoir cap, you can remove it if you want, but I don’t believe it’s necessary unless you need to remove fluid if it’s in danger of overflowing. That likely won’t be an issue unless at some point the fluid was topped off with very worn brake pads. Thanks for watching!
Really nice video. Just need to switch to 3M silicone grease for the slide pins...the Permatex gums up over time
Thanks, personally I’ve been using the Permatex for many years without any issues.
Awesome work! But you missed the jack stands, very important for safety! Don’t rely in the jack for holding the car weight!😉
I agree with you, but with the way the Pilot is built it’s difficult to use jack stands because there is only a small jack point, and when raised by the jack, it can be tricky to put a stand under at the same time. I’ve been able to do it on the front as can be seen in my video on replacing a sway bar end link, but have not done it on the rear. I definitely would never crawl under a vehicle only supported by a jack and this job did not require that. Thanks for watching!
@@stuffyoucando2 i have seen the jack slip and tear into the cars fender or other parts.. so be careful of that also
If I'm not under the vehicle, what's the problem? Really, it falls.
Excellent video thank you!!
Thanks!
hello I liked your video a question to tighten or loosen must be on or of in minute 7
I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking. If it’s too tight you will need to loosen it, otherwise tighten until there is little to no drag.
Awesome video! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
great video. no one showed that gotta parking braking disengaged.
Thanks, I’m glad it was helpful!
So helpful. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
No Loc-Tite or Torque Wrench on the Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolts?
I have personally never used loc-tire on these types of bolts. As far as a torque wrench, I typically use one on certain other applications like those involving aluminum or engine parts, but do not use one here. If you’d like to use one I believe the torque for the rear caliper bracket bolts is 65 ft-lbs.
Forget to clean and lube the sliders?
Nope, it’s at 7:54, forget to watch it?
Caliper drum duo?
Yes, It’s a common rear brake arrangement on newer vehicles. The brake shoes you can see when I remove the rotor are for the parking brake.
@@stuffyoucando2 Just bought the lady a Pilot, I'm the mechanic. I'm familiar with both drum and disc but this is the first time I've seen both. I've never worked on anything newer than 2011 though. Basically more things to go wrong haha! Nonetheless, thank you for your time!
thalegacy6 gotcha, yeah it seems pretty common now. My 2014 F-150 even has the same setup and I had an ‘04 Grand Cherokee with it as well. As long as your familiar with both setups it’s no problem at all, just remember to adjust the parking brake shoes in and don’t engage the brake before trying to take the rotor off.
@@stuffyoucando2 Yes sir!
thalegacy6 thanks for watching! I also have several other Pilot videos for things like cabin filter, oil change, rear diff fluid, front brakes, etc.
Those 2 bolts on the caliper are so tight I have almost given up. I can't get s grip on them anymore
You've rounded them off?
I didn't read other comments. Who noticed that the pads he took off had over half the meat still on them? Maybe this was for educational purposes? It is a really good video. I use a C clap to push the caliper piston back in.
The main reason I changed them was because the previous set were squealing a lot so I decided to change everything out to a different brand.
what brand brakes/calipers did you use?@@stuffyoucando2
Don't need to see all 5 lugs removed
If you’ll notice there’s other pertinent information provided during that part of the video. If that’s not worth paying attention to then I guess you don’t need to be watching the video, or maybe you could go ahead and make your own that excludes that?