So I habe 2014 Audi Q5 Turbo Diesel... While most of the disassembly (of bumper and front end) is similar it isn't exact... However, the engine is VERY different and looks nothing like this 😳. Does anyone have a good video (link) to a Q5 turbo diesel job?
Great post, did you say your scanner will give details on condition of chain and or need for replacement? Just bought a 2012 with 118k (repo) & I'm not sure if chain / tensioner have been replaced. Take it to an Audi shop & let them inspect?
Yeah if you go into the engine control units advanced measuring block values and you look at intake cam phase position it should be under within 5 degrees of zero with the engine warmed up, thanks!
@@EuropeanAutoRepairI have a 2010 Q5 with the 3.2 that needs the timing chain replaced. Is that one in the back of the engine? Looking to get quotes, what would be reasonable? Thanks!
I don’t see problems with the balance shaft chains or guides so usually those can go untouched, if I have a balance shaft bearing failure I will change all that stuff
Excellent video thank you. Got a question on the timing chain tensioner (at 19 mins in your video) your comments make sense that failure is more to do with timing chain stretch than the tensioner device itself failing. I have a 2012 VW Eos with 71,000 trouble free miles. After inspection this week the engine has the tensioner as your video (the older style). The more I seek information on this to assess my risk (and therefore what preventative maintenance I should do) from forums, videos, class action lawsuit etc I assess my risk of failure as high and that I should change the tensioner device ASAP for the newer tensioner design (like in your video) to avoid risk of serious cylinder head damage from the timing chain jumping. Would love your input on this. Im in Chicago. Thanks, Simon
Yeah at 70k installing the updated timing chain and tensioner would be a good idea, if you would like you can ask the shop that services your vehicle to check intake cam phase position with the engine at operating temperature to get a better indicator of exactly how far the chain has stretched, when the number is under -4 degrees you should consider replacing it
The shop said the chain has 3 degree of stretch which they said was expected and not at a critical level of more than 4° to 5° which they considered excessive.
I used this (the older tensioner design, 3 degree wear) at 70K miles to change the tensioner now and the chain in a further 20K. But watching your video if the tensioner design is not my biggest risk I have some but low risk to do nothing until the engine has 90K on it. Thoughts?
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Agreed, thanks. My question is what engine failure risk do I face not changing the tensioner and chain until its at 90K Vs changing the chain & tensioner now at 70K.
I've removed the cover for the torque converter bolts and used a pry bar to hold the flywheel in absence of the crank tool. The crank bolt isn't extremely tight so you don't need a ton of force.
What is the normal range of phase position? I use VCDS to read my 2015 q5 76k miles. It gives me -3.87.
That’s pretty low stretch value still, I usually start to think about replacing when it gets under -4.5-5 degrees
So I habe 2014 Audi Q5 Turbo Diesel... While most of the disassembly (of bumper and front end) is similar it isn't exact... However, the engine is VERY different and looks nothing like this 😳. Does anyone have a good video (link) to a Q5 turbo diesel job?
nice job
Thanks for the video, looks like I'm doing this next week.
Great post, did you say your scanner will give details on condition of chain and or need for replacement? Just bought a 2012 with 118k (repo) & I'm not sure if chain / tensioner have been replaced. Take it to an Audi shop & let them inspect?
Yeah if you go into the engine control units advanced measuring block values and you look at intake cam phase position it should be under within 5 degrees of zero with the engine warmed up, thanks!
Was this on a 2.0 or 3.2 engine?
2.0
@@EuropeanAutoRepairI have a 2010 Q5 with the 3.2 that needs the timing chain replaced. Is that one in the back of the engine? Looking to get quotes, what would be reasonable? Thanks!
Thank you for the video. On the 2.0t & 1.8t's.....Do you usually change the balance shaft chain and guides as well?
I don’t see problems with the balance shaft chains or guides so usually those can go untouched, if I have a balance shaft bearing failure I will change all that stuff
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Really appreciate the reply, about to tackle this on my 2014 1.8t.
@cventures6235 I hope everything goes smoothly!
Very good. What's your location?
I work in south east Michigan
Does tfsi have same timing lay out or is it different?
Pretty much the same as 2.0tsi
can you provide me part numbers for all.. thanks
Buy a kit like this www.partsgeek.com/yv5jxxs-audi-q5-timing-chain-kit.html along with upper timing cover gasket
Did you replace oil pump chain also? Do they have a history of breaking like timing chains?
I didn't replace the oil pump chain, I've actually never seen a oil pump chain failure on a tsi engine. Good question
@@EuropeanAutoRepair thanks for the advice
Excellent video thank you. Got a question on the timing chain tensioner (at 19 mins in your video) your comments make sense that failure is more to do with timing chain stretch than the tensioner device itself failing. I have a 2012 VW Eos with 71,000 trouble free miles. After inspection this week the engine has the tensioner as your video (the older style). The more I seek information on this to assess my risk (and therefore what preventative maintenance I should do) from forums, videos, class action lawsuit etc I assess my risk of failure as high and that I should change the tensioner device ASAP for the newer tensioner design (like in your video) to avoid risk of serious cylinder head damage from the timing chain jumping. Would love your input on this. Im in Chicago. Thanks, Simon
Yeah at 70k installing the updated timing chain and tensioner would be a good idea, if you would like you can ask the shop that services your vehicle to check intake cam phase position with the engine at operating temperature to get a better indicator of exactly how far the chain has stretched, when the number is under -4 degrees you should consider replacing it
The shop said the chain has 3 degree of stretch which they said was expected and not at a critical level of more than 4° to 5° which they considered excessive.
I used this (the older tensioner design, 3 degree wear) at 70K miles to change the tensioner now and the chain in a further 20K. But watching your video if the tensioner design is not my biggest risk I have some but low risk to do nothing until the engine has 90K on it. Thoughts?
@@shawchicago I would not change the tensioner without installing the updated chain as well, the difference in cost would be minimal
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Agreed, thanks. My question is what engine failure risk do I face not changing the tensioner and chain until its at 90K Vs changing the chain & tensioner now at 70K.
Great video, thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Hello, good video. what is the best method to taking of crank pulley? My impact does not fit in there. I don’t want to drain radiator and ac.
You need to buy a crank pulley counter hold tool. It has pins that go into 4 small holes in the dampener and the the socket goes through it
I've removed the cover for the torque converter bolts and used a pry bar to hold the flywheel in absence of the crank tool. The crank bolt isn't extremely tight so you don't need a ton of force.
150nm+ 90° on the crank bolt
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Thanks! I'm almost to that point on reassembly lol
How much does this cost at a shop ?
I believe we charge around 1700 dollars.