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Hi, Do you have a tensioner video for the MK7 GTI? I can't find torque specs anywhere for the 2 bolts that attach the tensioner and they seem really easy to break. I would be grateful for any info you have on that. Thanks!

I pulled and the cable broke. Do you have any other tips? I have also tried to pull the fuse and set it back but nothing. Also tried a stronger fuse but nothing as well. The fuse is fine so that isn’t the issue

Mine has an issue going from 1st, 2nd and reverse. When I need to take it out of reverse I need to shut off the car or stall it and 1st and second I need to apply force. Mine is a 16 Jetta tsi

Take 5 did me this. Been jacked up ever since

Been chasing an oil leak that tend to only happen everytime I drive Change the oil pan and still nothing I’m gonna say it’s either this or a timing cover

Thank you this was big help, able to transport the car to the shop

What did you spray it out with to clean it up?!

When these fail do they dump coolant around the side of the engine on the passenger side? Looking at a GTI MK5 kid said it needs a water pump. I ran the car for 10 mins and coolant dumped on the ground inside the passenger tire area! 😅

Thank you! I just did this task seamlessly with your help

Great video!! Answered everything I was questioning

How many miles is the change due under the factory service schedule, what kind of plugs to replace factory and what's the torque? Thanks for the video!

Mine does it at 70+ but also does it while coasting , not just accelerating

Thank you for making the video, my car (Volvo XC70) has been driving me mad with this elusive noise, the last few thousand miles it has got far worse and I was struggling to pin it down to a specific wheel bearing. (I have one in stock). A clue with mine is that it gets much quieter on damp roads, probably should try the spare on the suspect corner to see if it changes. Certainly does not seem to be affected by moderate side to side G forces.

Thank you ! I been thinking its my tire people tell me it’s my wheel bearing I’m like it can’t be I will a clicking or raspy vibration sound but my tires does the exact same thing

Dude. You might have just saved me a bunch of sleepless nights. I know my 2016 x1 mSport needs the vapor purge solenoid replaced cuz it's really running like a 20 year old farm vehicle and not "the ultimate driving machine". And it's very hard to start after fill ups. So I actually put two gallons in while it was running. Not very scientific I know but I did that years and years ago to a Mustang I believe. And the test is if your vehicle tries to cut off after a gallon or two, it's sucking vapor into the fuel injector manifold and flooding it our. The easy test is to pull the air hose from the solenoid with the vehicle running and put a 2 inch by 2 inch square piece of paper in front. If it gets sucked against the open hole the purge valve stuck open and needs to be replaced. And one of the earliest signs is the hard starts after filling the tank. I'd heard the valve can cause tons of problems in these little 2.0L twin turbos but I have a LOT of problems in this new lemon I just got stuck with. I knew this was easy and fairly inexpensive, so it was later in my list. Attacking the tougher stuff first. BUT, I wasn't connecting the purge valve to the other mixture, air flow and catalytic converter errors I was getting. Now that I looked closer at the errors in BimmerLink it IS the two faults on mix being too rich then the truck over corrects and makes it lean. None of the other 8 errors are enough to trigger the ML alert. But I'm going to replace it today when I'm installing the new aftermarket battery in trying. My 80ah AGM died 2 weeks after I pulled this heap off the lot. Lol but I can't find a new OEM version for under $750 with shipping. The H7-AGM Duralast Platinum at Auto Zone is only $260 and it has 50 more cold cranking amps and a three year replacement warranty. So I'm gonna give her a shot. I'll try to update folks if I manage to get either task on video. I keep forgetting to capture all the work I'm doing for posterity. Lol

Dude. You might have just saved me a bunch of sleepless nights. I know my 2016 x1 mSport needs the vapor purge solenoid replaced cuz it's really running like a 20 year old farm vehicle and not "the ultimate driving machine". And it's very hard to start after fill ups. So I actually put two gallons in while it was running. Not very scientific but I did that years and years ago to tell me if the tank vapor was being sucked into the injectors. And I'd heard the valve can cause tons of problems in these little 2.0L twin turbos but I have a LOT of problems in this new lemon I just got stuck with. So I know this is easy, so it was later in my list. Attacking the tougher stuff first. BUT, I wasn't connecting the purge valve to the other mixture, air flow and catalytic converter errors I was getting. But now that I looked closer it IS the two faults on mix being too rich then the truck over corrects and makes it lean. None of the other 8 errors are enough to trigger the ML alert. But I'm going to replace it today when I'm installing the new aftermarket battery in trying. My 80ah AGM died 2 weeks after I pulled this heap off the lot. Lol but I can't find a new OEM version for under $750 with shipping. The H7-AGM Duralast Platinum at Auto Zone is only $260 and it has 50 more cold cranking amps and a three year replacement warranty. So I'm gonna give her a shot. I'll try to update folks if I manage to get either task on video. I keep forgetting to capture all the work I'm doing for posterity. Lol

My truck's rear driver side wheel squeaks "as it turns" meaning the faster I drive the intervals are shorter, and the slower I drive the intervals are longer, etc. At higher speeds the noise goes away until I curve or turn right, when weight is applied to said side and tire. Can anyone help diagnose? My first thought was drive shaft, then brakes and now I have people telling me it's the wheel bearings. Not the most knowledgeable in vehicle mechanics so I could use a hand if anyone minds.

Just bought an M/T and i Cant shift into ANY gear besides 2 and 4 . Immediately smell a burning clutch as im driving her in 2nd. Clutch engages and springs beautifully! So I narrowed that as being an issue. I did notice the shift linkage was missing a clip… but i dont think one clip would throw it off entirely to the point where only 2/7 gears worked…. I feel like i know what is wrong but id like to hear from others. 14 challenger rt 6spd if that helps

Is the coolant temp sensor integrated in the thermostat housing?

Mine won't stay closed what do I do

Where are you located?

I have the same problem with my audi a4 b8.5 1.8tfsi 2012 . Wen i plug this out it blows hot air wen i put it back and restart the car it blows cold air and if i pull it out its getting hot again. Did you have a error code wen you use obd. I did have coolant pump fault code 001020.

What could cause a failure like that? Trans cooler line is behind there on the radiator. Was it it leaking and dripping down on the IC?

Good job

I love my 2.5, this was super helpful

How much does a timing chain job cost on this engine

Good shit, thanks!

what's the part called that he had to transfer over to the new pvc. I need that part to buy it?

THANK YOU SO MUCH. On my 2011 s4, it kept telling me this and I found that the wire is broken. Big thanks to you brother

Had to look up the meaning of the abbreviation... Had no idea that's what we experienced back in the day. Thanks for the teaching.

Now you and Franz should race the Beetle and the Quattro. 😅😅

Sounds nice! Can hear that turbo wine. Love them beetles.

Oh Teah! 😃

No shit, I have a 2011 BMW X3 28i xdrive with a failing alternator so you are a fucking miracle for me because it would be $1100 without manual labor at my mechanic. 🙏🙏🙏

Can you be more specific/clear about what you mean by "blowing compressed air through the hose on the car side"? Where exactly is it? Thanks

Thank you so much. Couldn't figure why or where that black sleeve was supposed to do. But you explained enough

The exhaust housing on the turbo, looks more like an early Passat or Audi A4 1.8

anyone have a link to the Upper timing chain cover

Never too old to learn something. I was about to do the tensioner on my Touran as it makes this same noise and I jumped straight to that conclusion. Gonna check this first 😂 thanks.

Nice video but i do t have all the tools does anyone in dallas tx does this work dm me

I have a p0304, I smell heavy fuel coming from the engine. I did a compression test on all 4 cylinders 1,2 & 3 was 180psi, the 4th cylinder was at 90psi. I put new spark plugs also changed the coils and misfire still there. Someone help please. 2009 golf Gti pzev 2.0t

What intake cam phase position degree, do usually recommend changing the chain at? Was the CEL lit, for any cam correlation codes, on the car you are working on, being it was at 9 degrees?

What's your acceptable degrees of stretch? I've heard 5 is the max.

How did you disconnect the yellow and orange clip shown at 2:02 in the video?

Even with the timing chain stretch.... do you find the balance chain to be generally in good order?

Tack för info,jag löste👍🏼 det själv🙂

Incredible. That's experience. Thanks for sharing.

Which part of Michigan is your shop?

How does the line crack from the booster in the first place?

You are the man, sniffing out bad wires like a bloodhound, nice work.