I'm a resin caster, not a 3d printer, so this might be useless, but you absolutely do not need a washing and curing station, use a hot cabinet for curing, and then wash in warm soapy water after, you're w essentially wasting off the sweated oils (and acetone of you use that, I prefer not to). I'm regards to speed, definitively, slow is better, resin is like glass, a small bit sudden rice can shatter it much easier than slow and constant. I hope this helps.
@@sarchlalaith8836 use a hot cabinet? This resin has to be cured under uv lights to be safe to handle. As for washing, IPA or denatured alcohol are the best solvents for cleaning uncured resin. Hot soapy water won't do much. It's definitely not the same as the resin casting you are doing
@@trekgod3 uv resin is used in casting too, you know sunlight is uv? My hot cabinet has uv lamps in for casting with clear resin which is uv. Solvents work by literally denaturing resin which eats at the surface, but sure, it does work better than hot water and soap, same way as acid is better than soap for cleaning but it does so at a cost. Obviously this depends on strength of it and how long you leave it in. Yes they're get different.. Which is why I said if it helps.
@@trekgod3 no lol, it's for putting mold into once the resin is poured to cure. Sometimes you can use it to delay cure to get better details, making sure the resin is hot so it fills all the details better, sometimes, when the resin is already hot you put more heat in to speed up the curing thermally or via uv depending on the type.
Using an LDR (light dependend resistor) as a camera trigger is such an incredibly ingenious solution, the simplicity blows my mind. No deducing the trigger time off some arbitrary parameters, no injecting additional layers to the print, no complicated electronics. Printer-brand-agnostic, using just the light that's already there as the basis of the trigger, resulting in a reliable solution. I love it.
I just want to thank both Tested and Elegoo for these videos. I wasn't aware these printers had become priced low enough for hobbyists until a few months ago. I purchased a Saturn as my very first 3D printer and could not be happier. I'm able to sculpt things in VR using Adobe Medium and print them out, it's like magic. You both improved my life a great deal, I've been able to realize a few of my dream projects.
I have been looking for a way to timelapse my resin prints and never considered using a photoresistor. That is such a simple and elegant solution. Thank you for explaining that!
I definitely recommend grabbing the Saturn if you enjoy the Mars. Even finer detail, quieter, and of course the MUCH larger print volume. So nice:) Elegoo are also working on a "Jupiter", though no word outside of that about it.
I gotta say. this is really cool. I love the behind the scenes stuff like this even if I'll never do it. those time lapses Norm showed were really pretty.
Hey Norm. I recommend getting a 10L+ Ultrasonic cleaner for your cleanup. It beats out those washing stations, and you can get one to the size you want. Personally I use the Vevor 10L that I got off of Walmart, but that's a super cheap machine, and I'm betting you could find a better quality one for a bit more somewhere. Nice extra bonus that these industrial units come with heaters, which really helps with support removal.
Far cry from the "rapid prototyping" resin printer we had in Engineering (MET, Community College at the time). This was 1978 or so! Programming the primitive CNC machine was fun too. Code IBM punchcards, then transfer to paper tape. Dodgy at best. Now we're 3D printing METAL parts! One step closer to the ST Replicator!
Great video, Norm. I feel you did a better job at explaining what the cable is for than Uncle Jessy. I got it, but he didn't show an example of a time lapse without the cable, which really helps in showing the value of the cable.
Norm, Creality's UW-01 wash & cure is larger than the ones made by Elegoo and Anycubic and has enough volume for about 95-98% of Saturn prints. I don't like it as much as the Mercury Plus, but it's better than trying to shoehorn a huge print into the Mercury's tub.
My first thought when he mentioned it was "tie it to the gcode" so it takes a picture every time the layer changes, but that requires extra interfaces and something like NanoDLP to control it. Using a light sensor is a million times simpler!
my original thought was more along the lines of Octolapse for FDM printers, where there's a switch that the printer presses after every layer, but yeah the light sensor trick is exceedingly simple and outstandingly brilliant in terms of implementation
Lift speed will also depend on the thickness of your resin. For example Siraya Tech Blu is very thick and viscous so you have to increase the lift time / distance so the liquid has enough time to flow into position for the next layer.
Not exactly. The lifting is followed by relatively rapid descent of the platform, so the resin gets stirred. Better designs move the vat or use a wiper/mixer.
i use a form2 and a form3B from Formlabs. I don't have all the adjustment parameters that you were showing with your Elegoo, but the largest effective setting seems to be the point-size for the supports and the resolution of choice. We've found that a lot of detail should be done with 0.05mm or even 0.025mm if possible. and the point size shouldn't be smaller than 0.4mm, for small parts. Large parts will drop as well using 0.4mm point size so anything large I try to lighten wherever possible and I still use 1.0mm point size but I reduce the support density to ~0.8 or 0.7. I currently use Fusion360 (some of use still use Solidworks) for our mechanical designs. I haven't had a chance to do anything organic. I was wondering what everyone prefers for more organic design work.
I ordered one of these cables as soon as I saw Jessy's video. My camera is petty old, a Canon 350D. I think it was their first DSLR, but it looks like it has the port so I hope it will work.
High end SLA printers, High end CNC and Laser cutters, great. But, right now when things are really tough for most of us, I would love to see you all not showing off your latest free toys so much and maybe showing more affordable stuff that makers can use. Maybe keep these videos for the Patreon folks or premium subs. Or spread them out more not sure. But, really getting this high brow vibe from these latest "tech" show & tell videos.
Install "Web Alert" on your phone (Android though), spend 2.50 for the expansion pack. You'll have it figured out in 10 minutes and it will save you an enormous amount of time you'd otherwise be spending checking the vendor sites every 5 minutes.
I kept seeing these comments after purchasing mine the other day when I saw it on Amazon not realizing it was so hard to get. I went back to Amazon today and there were 3rd party sellers already jacking the price up. Good luck I know how irritating it can be trying to get something in high demand.
Nice enough solution, but ideally 3D printer manufacturers should output a user configurable relay pins now, with one defaulted to shutter exposure. Users could configure the other outputs to connect to indicators, chimes, etc.
It's going to be standard on all printers going forward. Then the 3d resin printing factories will offer an extra service of your item being printed in timelapse.
Fantastic video Also I had no idea resin printing has gotten this affordable. A $300 (USD) printer that can do those figures, is pretty incredible. Now I'm seriously thinking bout getting into it. But first I'd have to look into the software and how to use it (and also I'd want to be able to model simple things myself so I'd be looking into that first too)
Highly recommend Chitubox for your slicer. Also, don't forget to include post processing gear in your budget. The Anycubic wash & cure is the simplest way to go
The original Mars is actually just $160, though it does come with a fair few drawbacks when compared to the newer machines. ( Slower, louder, smaller ) If you have questions, I recommend the Elegoo Mars and Saturn subreddits.
I've been considering upgrading to a Saturn. They seem to be Sold Out. I wouldn't be surprised to see out of stock but sold out implies they won't be restocking.
I don't own a 3d printer myself, so I can't try this, but I'm curious how it would look to have the whole video upside down, and keyframed to follow the print in the center of the frame so that it looks as though the print basin is kind of lifting off of the print as it emerges. I think that would look pretty cool.
Ok, I've some questions that I haven't seen addressed anywhere. Being that the resin(s) are "UV-cured", is it possible to OVER-CURE the resin castings? And, if so, what are the detrimental and/or benificial results of that happening? Does it get stronger or brittle over time and/or UV exposure? Should your castings be coated with a UV protectant? Or, are the castings fully stable after a certain period, after post-curing? Being it is nearly impossible to prevent further UV exposure, after "post-curing", this seems like an important thing to find out about.
Doing TL with a DSLR also destroys your DSLR pretty quick. Shutter count is 40K to 200K triggers. One TL can be 4000 photos, depending on the FPS and time.....
Nice video, I just discover this channel and happy about the contains I watched your anycubic Mono X review and saw that you use the Elegoo Saturn on this one i have to buy one of this, which one you will recommend on June 2021? thank you very much
In theory, yes. However, it would be a royal pain. You have 2 main options: Print separate, but designed to snap together. As mentioned, resin is more brittle, and this requires very precise tolerances and resins shrink. There's also light bleed, which really complicates tolerances. Different shapes, sizes, etc. each behave differently, so you would have to manually test and adjust to get it working right. Option 2 is printing in place. This gets around the brittle part, but it makes the tolerancing 10x worse, if not impossible. The way the light bleed and shrinkage work, it would be very hard to get a good tight joint.
Hey Norm, can you look at flexible resins ? Or mixing flexible resin with normal resin.. I want to try and get a TPU like print from my SL1 for drone parts!
Any general tips for noob at printing? Test print runs fine. Cant get my own file to work/adhere to the print plate. Have tried different exposure times, different supports, smaller size
I don't understand your comment about 2.5-3 second cure times. I have 2 different MSLA printers and your average Anycubic or Elagoo resin is 1.5-1.7 second cure times and even 3DMaterials resins curing in 1.2-1.3 second cure times. Are you not over exposing your resins?
Oh the mystery print music! Now I miss Will.. About the lift speed, in my case I found out that at lower speeds I have the least supports broken, and also if the contact surface with the FEP is too big (i.e. not hollowed big models) at fast lifting the FEP suction wins over the buildplate adhesion. But again, that's my own experience... Resin printing has so many variables that what works for me may not work for someone else..
With the Saturn you should really have the opposite problem where the plate holds too hard to the print. I actually had to completely turn off my bottom exposures to get it under control. I run 150mm/s lift speed, and it works great using standard resins. I definitely think the fast band-aid theory is BS. I can only see that making things worse. That being said, decent supports and orientation should handle much faster than the Saturn defaults plenty easily. I was able to double my speeds without changing anything else.
@@zemerick I have an Anycubic Photon. I have my bottom exposure settings dialed low enough to not have to fight with the buildplate when taking off the prints. It’s a matter of balance, as everything in resin printing haha..
@@ElEnanoAr Ok, yes. A different machine will require different settings. The somewhat good news is that lift speeds have much less impact for you, so no need to try and get what you can out of them. For monochrome machines ( like the Saturn and Mars 2 ), it can have a HUGE impact on print times, so it's worth the effort.
Iv only ever used FDM printers but I'm very tempted too buy this printer but don't have any room. Could anyone tell me what they think of the idea of me using this printer in my shed outside?
So I managed to get my hands on a resinlapse cable and I picked up a Lanc cable for the sony 6400 I have. But I still cant get it to work? Any help would be much appreciated. Please.
How did you make the end of your video ? (Filming the elegoo showing off the result from start to end). Because my elegoo goes up and then down, up and down , always !
Awesome video per usual. Not knowing anything about this, is it an expensive hobby only for the super-wealthy or has it become more mainstream and affordable yet? Looks so fun!
It has become extremely affordable, though I wouldn't quite say cheap. Entry level you're looking at the original Elegoo Mars, which is $160. Resin costs around $30 per liter/KG. I really recommend an ultrasonic cleaner for $60-150. There are some other minor expenses like paper towels, gloves, and the rare need to buy some more cleaner. ( IPA or an all-purpose cleaner ) It's also a good idea to buy a UV light of some sort, like $15, otherwise you have to work around the sun. Then there's the occasional maintenance which is pretty much just replacing a piece of thin FEP plastic ( ~$4, typically lasts months ), and the LCD screen ( for the Mars it's $20-40, about every 200-400 hours. ) There are also various improvements from there, such as the Mars Pro, Mars 2, Mars 2 Pro, and of course other companies printers ( I find Elegoo offers the best value, hence why you'll hear about them so much. ) Next up is the Elegoo Saturn as shown here. It's a much bigger size, monochrome screen ( lasts 10x as long, much faster printing ), with some other nice touches. It's much higher cost at $500, but its competitors are $750-$1,500. It's such a great deal by comparison, that it's also a bit hard to get ahold of. It's getting better, with new units appearing about daily, but they're also going in minutes. Beware of scalpers: Amazon is the official store, and $500 is the real price. I definitely think the Saturn is worth it.
would there be a safe way to resin print in an apartment? The fumes need to be ventilated somehow, but also you can't just put it near a window because of UV right?
Personally I've never noticed a problem with ventilation, and I print in my basement. In my opinion, the descriptions of how bad the fumes get are pretty exaggerated.
Depends on the apartment, and your habits. You don't want it sitting next to you for example. However, I print in an apartment fine: I have mine in a good sized bathroom and walk in closet combination, with a closed door and exhaust fan.
Una Creación Increíble materialista la imagen 👀 pero a mí me gusta más la impresora con láser !!!!!!🖨y sería todavía más INCREÍBLE que fuera comestible !!!!!😅🍞🍤🍟🍔🍕🍛
Didn't really think about it until saw this, how are we getting rid of the waste from these? The oceans is already choked with plastic waste, once everyone starts getting these as the price goes down, the waste just scares me. Is there anyone working on a recyclable printer?
I saw a person who was making a recycling machine that turns the waste plastic from norml 3d printers into useable filimant! I hope that technology goes further then it is now.
I like simplicity, but this method creates too many images (most of which will never be used) and causes an unnecessary wear of the mechanical camera shutter. The exposure should be triggered every N number of layers (where N is adjustable within some reasonable range).
ResinLapse cable: www.etsy.com/listing/970847090/resinlapse-resin-3d-printer-timelapses
Uncle Jessy's video on ResinLapse: ruclips.net/video/KWZPJ-bkvEA/видео.html
Uncle Jessy's RUclips channel: ruclips.net/channel/UC8i8e7likh-EYMq1bZ0ttHw
Elegoo Saturn: amzn.to/3slauw1
Elegoo Mars 2 Pro 3D Printer: amzn.to/3nM1mNN
Siraya Tech Resin: siraya.tech/collections/all
Nitrile gloves: amzn.to/34DIAlj
99% Isopropyl Alcohol: amzn.to/380IXst
Pickle Jar for IPA Wash: amzn.to/3jBwOfy
Wash Squeeze Bottle: amzn.to/34GGW2z
Spray bottle: amzn.to/2Tzwy6i
Silicone tray: amzn.to/3mypjI8
Alcohol wipes: amzn.to/3eh16Dh
Tongs: amzn.to/2HDN1UL
I'm a resin caster, not a 3d printer, so this might be useless, but you absolutely do not need a washing and curing station, use a hot cabinet for curing, and then wash in warm soapy water after, you're w essentially wasting off the sweated oils (and acetone of you use that, I prefer not to).
I'm regards to speed, definitively, slow is better, resin is like glass, a small bit sudden rice can shatter it much easier than slow and constant.
I hope this helps.
@@sarchlalaith8836 use a hot cabinet? This resin has to be cured under uv lights to be safe to handle. As for washing, IPA or denatured alcohol are the best solvents for cleaning uncured resin. Hot soapy water won't do much. It's definitely not the same as the resin casting you are doing
@@trekgod3 uv resin is used in casting too, you know sunlight is uv? My hot cabinet has uv lamps in for casting with clear resin which is uv.
Solvents work by literally denaturing resin which eats at the surface, but sure, it does work better than hot water and soap, same way as acid is better than soap for cleaning but it does so at a cost. Obviously this depends on strength of it and how long you leave it in.
Yes they're get different.. Which is why I said if it helps.
@@sarchlalaith8836 ok. Wasn't sure what you meant by hot box. Sounds like a box with a heater inside
@@trekgod3 no lol, it's for putting mold into once the resin is poured to cure. Sometimes you can use it to delay cure to get better details, making sure the resin is hot so it fills all the details better, sometimes, when the resin is already hot you put more heat in to speed up the curing thermally or via uv depending on the type.
Using an LDR (light dependend resistor) as a camera trigger is such an incredibly ingenious solution, the simplicity blows my mind. No deducing the trigger time off some arbitrary parameters, no injecting additional layers to the print, no complicated electronics. Printer-brand-agnostic, using just the light that's already there as the basis of the trigger, resulting in a reliable solution. I love it.
Thanks! I was pretty proud of this solution! 😅
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I just want to thank both Tested and Elegoo for these videos. I wasn't aware these printers had become priced low enough for hobbyists until a few months ago. I purchased a Saturn as my very first 3D printer and could not be happier. I'm able to sculpt things in VR using Adobe Medium and print them out, it's like magic. You both improved my life a great deal, I've been able to realize a few of my dream projects.
Print the mystery object was one of my favourite series of videos. Was exciting to hear that again!
I have been looking for a way to timelapse my resin prints and never considered using a photoresistor. That is such a simple and elegant solution. Thank you for explaining that!
I was pretty proud of that one! 😅
OMG so excited to see this!!!
The timelapses look so sharp!
Awesome!!! Congratulations man!
Make this for sony cameras please 😅, nvm saw that you guys r on it already, hypee
@@Ryxxi_makes yeppers! We are working on a solution for it!
It's a very nice solution, nice work. I just wish there was an equally easy way for it to trigger at the top of each layer, rather than bottom.
I love the look of the uv light passing through the clear resin print. Looks awesome……
I have the Elegoo Mars and love it. I've been coveting the Saturn for a long time. Prints look great!
I definitely recommend grabbing the Saturn if you enjoy the Mars. Even finer detail, quieter, and of course the MUCH larger print volume. So nice:)
Elegoo are also working on a "Jupiter", though no word outside of that about it.
I gotta say. this is really cool. I love the behind the scenes stuff like this even if I'll never do it. those time lapses Norm showed were really pretty.
The clear resin print at the end brings to mind Superman's Fortress of Solitude forming.
that resinlapse is ingenious.. comes out really nicely too
AWESOME! I'm so excited to see you using the ResinLapse, it looks so smooth!
Soo good! I can't wait for mine!! Congratulations man!
Ok, I'm going to have to get a resin printer now... And it was so nice to hear the mystery print tune again. I really missed that....
That light sensor setup is ingenious!
Hey Norm. I recommend getting a 10L+ Ultrasonic cleaner for your cleanup. It beats out those washing stations, and you can get one to the size you want.
Personally I use the Vevor 10L that I got off of Walmart, but that's a super cheap machine, and I'm betting you could find a better quality one for a bit more somewhere.
Nice extra bonus that these industrial units come with heaters, which really helps with support removal.
Far cry from the "rapid prototyping" resin printer we had in Engineering (MET, Community College at the time). This was 1978 or so! Programming the primitive CNC machine was fun too. Code IBM punchcards, then transfer to paper tape. Dodgy at best. Now we're 3D printing METAL parts! One step closer to the ST Replicator!
Ordered mine! Its on its way!! 😀
Brilliant solution. Well applied, Norm.
Love seeing the builds!
Great video, Norm. I feel you did a better job at explaining what the cable is for than Uncle Jessy. I got it, but he didn't show an example of a time lapse without the cable, which really helps in showing the value of the cable.
The Friday 3D Print Music is back.
Okay, the alligator clip solution is cooler than it has any right to be.
Norm, Creality's UW-01 wash & cure is larger than the ones made by Elegoo and Anycubic and has enough volume for about 95-98% of Saturn prints. I don't like it as much as the Mercury Plus, but it's better than trying to shoehorn a huge print into the Mercury's tub.
hell yeah give me more 3D printer coverage!
Wonderful Breakdown and even a nice "hack" tip for the TSR cable!
this is a genuinely outstanding solution to a problem i had no idea existed.
My first thought when he mentioned it was "tie it to the gcode" so it takes a picture every time the layer changes, but that requires extra interfaces and something like NanoDLP to control it. Using a light sensor is a million times simpler!
my original thought was more along the lines of Octolapse for FDM printers, where there's a switch that the printer presses after every layer, but yeah the light sensor trick is exceedingly simple and outstandingly brilliant in terms of implementation
@@logicalparadox8954 yeah unfortunately it looks like Octo doesn't support SLA printers, I had the same idea.
I'm just getting my first anycubic next week. Excited to get into the world of resin printing after a year of fdm!
I'm just glad I got my Saturn in the first preorder. It's a great machine if you can get it at normal price.
Those time lapses are frakin amazing!
Lift speed will also depend on the thickness of your resin. For example Siraya Tech Blu is very thick and viscous so you have to increase the lift time / distance so the liquid has enough time to flow into position for the next layer.
Not exactly. The lifting is followed by relatively rapid descent of the platform, so the resin gets stirred. Better designs move the vat or use a wiper/mixer.
what a great solution!
Strangely relevant. My Saturn arrived Tuesday, hoping to test it out Saturday
The resin lapse cable is non trivial. A new era of photography has begun. Enjoy the videos Norm!
Very interesting and informative, as usual. Thanks Norm.
I will buy one when they print as fast as your time-lapse video. :)
Awesome
Gonna try it
i use a form2 and a form3B from Formlabs. I don't have all the adjustment parameters that you were showing with your Elegoo, but the largest effective setting seems to be the point-size for the supports and the resolution of choice. We've found that a lot of detail should be done with 0.05mm or even 0.025mm if possible. and the point size shouldn't be smaller than 0.4mm, for small parts. Large parts will drop as well using 0.4mm point size so anything large I try to lighten wherever possible and I still use 1.0mm point size but I reduce the support density to ~0.8 or 0.7.
I currently use Fusion360 (some of use still use Solidworks) for our mechanical designs. I haven't had a chance to do anything organic. I was wondering what everyone prefers for more organic design work.
Really love this vid. The advice is good. Guy knows his shit.
I ordered one of these cables as soon as I saw Jessy's video. My camera is petty old, a Canon 350D. I think it was their first DSLR, but it looks like it has the port so I hope it will work.
High end SLA printers, High end CNC and Laser cutters, great. But, right now when things are really tough for most of us, I would love to see you all not showing off your latest free toys so much and maybe showing more affordable stuff that makers can use. Maybe keep these videos for the Patreon folks or premium subs. Or spread them out more not sure. But, really getting this high brow vibe from these latest "tech" show & tell videos.
I need to get me one of these
I got my Saturn last week, im goin to 3d print all my models. First i need to learn how to add proper supports to my models. = )
i made one of these cables for $5, really simple but its a great concept
Oh, how I’ve missed that timelapse music!
It's super nostalgic!
The Saturn is never in stock!
Install "Web Alert" on your phone (Android though), spend 2.50 for the expansion pack. You'll have it figured out in 10 minutes and it will save you an enormous amount of time you'd otherwise be spending checking the vendor sites every 5 minutes.
I kept seeing these comments after purchasing mine the other day when I saw it on Amazon not realizing it was so hard to get. I went back to Amazon today and there were 3rd party sellers already jacking the price up. Good luck I know how irritating it can be trying to get something in high demand.
The Makerbot series was what got me into tested initially....dang, it's been a spell.
I wonder if the people over at Lock & Lock know why they've been selling so many pickle trays over the past two years.
Too right! Theyre just so handy for resin printing haha
Nice enough solution, but ideally 3D printer manufacturers should output a user configurable relay pins now, with one defaulted to shutter exposure.
Users could configure the other outputs to connect to indicators, chimes, etc.
It's going to be standard on all printers going forward. Then the 3d resin printing factories will offer an extra service of your item being printed in timelapse.
Please please please bring back random printing timelapses on the regular!
Slice into multiple pieces to make it even bigger just have to glue together and use resin and uv pen to fill the gaps
My approach to 3d printing: Fill page with patterned designs, print 11x17 and fold. Next sheet, repeat in different shape. Sigh at print center bill.
Fantastic video
Also I had no idea resin printing has gotten this affordable. A $300 (USD) printer that can do those figures, is pretty incredible.
Now I'm seriously thinking bout getting into it. But first I'd have to look into the software and how to use it (and also I'd want to be able to model simple things myself so I'd be looking into that first too)
Highly recommend Chitubox for your slicer. Also, don't forget to include post processing gear in your budget. The Anycubic wash & cure is the simplest way to go
The original Mars is actually just $160, though it does come with a fair few drawbacks when compared to the newer machines. ( Slower, louder, smaller )
If you have questions, I recommend the Elegoo Mars and Saturn subreddits.
I've been considering upgrading to a Saturn. They seem to be Sold Out. I wouldn't be surprised to see out of stock but sold out implies they won't be restocking.
I don't own a 3d printer myself, so I can't try this, but I'm curious how it would look to have the whole video upside down, and keyframed to follow the print in the center of the frame so that it looks as though the print basin is kind of lifting off of the print as it emerges. I think that would look pretty cool.
Ok, I've some questions that I haven't seen addressed anywhere. Being that the resin(s) are "UV-cured", is it possible to OVER-CURE the resin castings? And, if so, what are the detrimental and/or benificial results of that happening? Does it get stronger or brittle over time and/or UV exposure? Should your castings be coated with a UV protectant? Or, are the castings fully stable after a certain period, after post-curing? Being it is nearly impossible to prevent further UV exposure, after "post-curing", this seems like an important thing to find out about.
Ohhh this is cool.
Doing TL with a DSLR also destroys your DSLR pretty quick. Shutter count is 40K to 200K triggers. One TL can be 4000 photos, depending on the FPS and time.....
Hi bud l have 2 mars resin and 2 proton resin printer l think they are great model makers good vid
150% bigger would be 3.375 times the resin as these are three dimensional (1.5*1.5*1.5 = 3.375)
You should somehow try film fast vs slow lift on slowmo with clear resin to see what's better
Oh, its a simple optical trigger! Nice. I wonder if someone could use a gender-barrel (2.5mm) for this to a Sony remote cable (Vello RCC-S2-2.5)?
Nice video, I just discover this channel and happy about the contains
I watched your anycubic Mono X review and saw that you use the Elegoo Saturn on this one
i have to buy one of this, which one you will recommend on June 2021?
thank you very much
Those look amazing... I wonder if you could print figures with ball joints make them moveable?
many resins are too brittle, but yes, you can
In theory, yes. However, it would be a royal pain.
You have 2 main options: Print separate, but designed to snap together. As mentioned, resin is more brittle, and this requires very precise tolerances and resins shrink. There's also light bleed, which really complicates tolerances. Different shapes, sizes, etc. each behave differently, so you would have to manually test and adjust to get it working right.
Option 2 is printing in place. This gets around the brittle part, but it makes the tolerancing 10x worse, if not impossible. The way the light bleed and shrinkage work, it would be very hard to get a good tight joint.
Norm, when are you going to turn this into a miniature painting channel?
Wait, elegoo Saturn with antialias?? I wasn't aware the LCD was compatible!
I want so damn bad 😂😂 My wallet says no but what does it know anyways besides holding money 🤔
I kinda like the jittery version better
Hey Norm, can you look at flexible resins ? Or mixing flexible resin with normal resin.. I want to try and get a TPU like print from my SL1 for drone parts!
Any general tips for noob at printing? Test print runs fine. Cant get my own file to work/adhere to the print plate. Have tried different exposure times, different supports, smaller size
The vroom values you quoted should be in mm/min not mm/sec.
oneplus usb charging cable, I also see oneplus power brick
What is the POWER box he sometimes uses to test the stuff he makes, the blue box that he connect his builds to get power?
I don't understand your comment about 2.5-3 second cure times. I have 2 different MSLA printers and your average Anycubic or Elagoo resin is 1.5-1.7 second cure times and even 3DMaterials resins curing in 1.2-1.3 second cure times. Are you not over exposing your resins?
Oh the mystery print music! Now I miss Will.. About the lift speed, in my case I found out that at lower speeds I have the least supports broken, and also if the contact surface with the FEP is too big (i.e. not hollowed big models) at fast lifting the FEP suction wins over the buildplate adhesion. But again, that's my own experience... Resin printing has so many variables that what works for me may not work for someone else..
With the Saturn you should really have the opposite problem where the plate holds too hard to the print. I actually had to completely turn off my bottom exposures to get it under control. I run 150mm/s lift speed, and it works great using standard resins.
I definitely think the fast band-aid theory is BS. I can only see that making things worse. That being said, decent supports and orientation should handle much faster than the Saturn defaults plenty easily. I was able to double my speeds without changing anything else.
@@zemerick I have an Anycubic Photon. I have my bottom exposure settings dialed low enough to not have to fight with the buildplate when taking off the prints. It’s a matter of balance, as everything in resin printing haha..
@@ElEnanoAr Ok, yes. A different machine will require different settings. The somewhat good news is that lift speeds have much less impact for you, so no need to try and get what you can out of them.
For monochrome machines ( like the Saturn and Mars 2 ), it can have a HUGE impact on print times, so it's worth the effort.
@@zemerick not only different machines, different climate situations require different settings. It’s almost an art dialing the right settings.
On a 10hour print, what is the average number of shots? Isn't it gonna kill ur camera's shutter easily since they only last up to 150-250k on average
Iv only ever used FDM printers but I'm very tempted too buy this printer but don't have any room.
Could anyone tell me what they think of the idea of me using this printer in my shed outside?
Mmm smells like purple
So I managed to get my hands on a resinlapse cable and I picked up a Lanc cable for the sony 6400 I have. But I still cant get it to work? Any help would be much appreciated. Please.
How did you make the end of your video ? (Filming the elegoo showing off the result from start to end). Because my elegoo goes up and then down, up and down , always !
You definitely want to print hollow with holes. If you print solid the post curing UV can't reach the inside of the model so it never fully cures.
can i ask you one qiestion "how bad smell is the resin 3d printer is?"
How would /get the cable to work with a Sony a6400? Could I just use an adapter > Micro USB to TRS ?
Awesome video per usual. Not knowing anything about this, is it an expensive hobby only for the super-wealthy or has it become more mainstream and affordable yet? Looks so fun!
It has become extremely affordable, though I wouldn't quite say cheap.
Entry level you're looking at the original Elegoo Mars, which is $160. Resin costs around $30 per liter/KG. I really recommend an ultrasonic cleaner for $60-150. There are some other minor expenses like paper towels, gloves, and the rare need to buy some more cleaner. ( IPA or an all-purpose cleaner ) It's also a good idea to buy a UV light of some sort, like $15, otherwise you have to work around the sun. Then there's the occasional maintenance which is pretty much just replacing a piece of thin FEP plastic ( ~$4, typically lasts months ), and the LCD screen ( for the Mars it's $20-40, about every 200-400 hours. )
There are also various improvements from there, such as the Mars Pro, Mars 2, Mars 2 Pro, and of course other companies printers ( I find Elegoo offers the best value, hence why you'll hear about them so much. )
Next up is the Elegoo Saturn as shown here. It's a much bigger size, monochrome screen ( lasts 10x as long, much faster printing ), with some other nice touches. It's much higher cost at $500, but its competitors are $750-$1,500. It's such a great deal by comparison, that it's also a bit hard to get ahold of. It's getting better, with new units appearing about daily, but they're also going in minutes. Beware of scalpers: Amazon is the official store, and $500 is the real price. I definitely think the Saturn is worth it.
@@zemerick Thanks for taking your time to compose all that information and explaining it. Awesome stuff!
would there be a safe way to resin print in an apartment? The fumes need to be ventilated somehow, but also you can't just put it near a window because of UV right?
Personally I've never noticed a problem with ventilation, and I print in my basement. In my opinion, the descriptions of how bad the fumes get are pretty exaggerated.
Depends on the apartment, and your habits. You don't want it sitting next to you for example.
However, I print in an apartment fine: I have mine in a good sized bathroom and walk in closet combination, with a closed door and exhaust fan.
If you have two bathrooms, put it in one of them close to the exhaust vent.
I might swap my mars 2 pro for a saturn. want bigger build space.
Una Creación Increíble materialista la imagen 👀 pero a mí me gusta más la impresora con láser !!!!!!🖨y sería todavía más INCREÍBLE que fuera comestible !!!!!😅🍞🍤🍟🍔🍕🍛
Source for the Samurai Vader?
Didn't really think about it until saw this, how are we getting rid of the waste from these? The oceans is already choked with plastic waste, once everyone starts getting these as the price goes down, the waste just scares me. Is there anyone working on a recyclable printer?
I saw a person who was making a recycling machine that turns the waste plastic from norml 3d printers into useable filimant! I hope that technology goes further then it is now.
Cool, just watch it at 1.75 speed...then sounds normal. Hehe.
Have you tested the prusa sl1 resin printer?
is this Darth vader the famous Viking?
Wheres the raptor project?
Adam how did you get into 3d printing ,
Does this cable work with canon 80d?
Where are the Star Wars STLs from?
Wish I had his job.
I like simplicity, but this method creates too many images (most of which will never be used) and causes an unnecessary wear of the mechanical camera shutter. The exposure should be triggered every N number of layers (where N is adjustable within some reasonable range).
Someone smart HELP! How do these printers work?!!
If only they weren’t sold out