Thanks James. I've done similar from other brands and the Vitra concealed cistern too. It's nice to know I'm doing it the same and the comment about taking your time and plan- I always feel I'm taking too long working to the mm!
Hi mate.. great video I thought mine had been installed wrong I expected to turn towards the hot sign and left towards the cold but I can see you going towards cold for hot by turning left
so you're telling me a long threaded rod with a hex internal will be godsent for this job. Essentially a plumber's threaded rod that can be tightened from the inside, to install and nip up a straight coupling as deep or shallow as you want it.
Great vid, I'm about to install something similar. When you threaded the shower head unit into the fixed elbow, how do you ensure that the cover plate is tight and flush the same time that the angle of the arm is pointing down? Or was there a grub screw to rotate the unit to be at the right angle once nipped up?
Hi mate, great vid but a couple of comments. You state mimum finished wall depth is 50mm - is it? Just received my box to go into a 50mm metal stud wall and the void is 50mm, plus 12.5mm for aquapanel, plus 8mm for decorative wall panel (and a copluple mm for silicone)...yet marrying all that up I still dont reach the minimum line to cut off the shroud off? Also what is the platic square bracket thats supplied fitted around the v-box for? Cheers
It looks like you’ve got 3/4” connections and backplate elbows, as well as 22mm size pipe going to outlets. If the hot and cold feeds are 15mm while did you uprate the pipe sizing for the outlets? Also are the box connections all 1/2”? You said you were using 1/2” to 15mm irons for the feeds. Are the outlets 1/2” too, if so what would be the point of running the outlets in 3/4” and 22mm? Are you downsizing to the backplates? Surely the hand shower and rose connections would be 1/2” so you’d have to down rate at the outlets? I see a lot of people doing this but I’ve never understood why because the water can only flow at the width of the smallest fitting.
Been watching loads of your vids pal and I know being a seasoned plumber you love copper but, would you see anything wrong with using pushfit with a concealed shower unit? Am I asking for trouble down the line if I was to use pushfit for ease (not being a plumber or have the love to polish copper in a sexual manner) ?
Great video as ever. I have installed a similar set-up in the family bedroom and all works fine.....apart from after the shower is off. The shower head is huge 400x600 and holds lots of water. Due to the surface tension/vacuum effect this drips out slowly over the next hour. Is there a valve of any sort that can be installed between the main shower controller valve and the shower head, to allow air in? It is not possible to move the head after a shower, as it has 2 fixings and the feed into the ceiling.
Hello! You can find the mixer plates in the various colours here www.vitra.co.uk/arama/hizliErisim.aspx?tip=U&lang=en-GB&srt=&text=origin&kat=21053&page=4
Do video on quiet non kettling immersion heaters for people in flats that have tank close to bedroom..... Your call all these videos but no real know ledge
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Good lad, now have the rest of the weekend off.
It's Roger Bisby from SkillBuilder!
Cheers mate! 😂
🤣🤣🤣
Thanks James. I've done similar from other brands and the Vitra concealed cistern too. It's nice to know I'm doing it the same and the comment about taking your time and plan- I always feel I'm taking too long working to the mm!
Looks great! Would love to see something similar with a digital shower
Installing similar in my own place at the mo' and looking forward to seeing the end result.
I loved that video. Never seen a v box until now. Great pipework too 👍
U forgot the cross over plastic that goes around the valve box behind the tile backer board. Great video though helped me alot thanks
Hi mate.. great video I thought mine had been installed wrong I expected to turn towards the hot sign and left towards the cold but I can see you going towards cold for hot by turning left
Any advise on this
This is very helpful as I’m about to fit one for the first time. I will be using push fit and compression fittings though 😬
Copper looks proper 😍😍😍❤️❤️❤️❤️
Poet, didn’t know it 🤣
@@davezeraschi7936 and plastic is fantastic 😂😂😂
@@paul_my_plumbs_uk stop it now 🤣🤣🤣 you could write a book mate 😆😆
@@davezeraschi7936 sorry dave i'll stop the rave 😂😂😂🙌🙌🙌🙌
so you're telling me a long threaded rod with a hex internal will be godsent for this job. Essentially a plumber's threaded rod that can be tightened from the inside, to install and nip up a straight coupling as deep or shallow as you want it.
Good Sunday morning to you sir and your family
Great vid, I'm about to install something similar. When you threaded the shower head unit into the fixed elbow, how do you ensure that the cover plate is tight and flush the same time that the angle of the arm is pointing down? Or was there a grub screw to rotate the unit to be at the right angle once nipped up?
Nice finish... I'd go for the matt black
Really interesting video and yes I am thinking about having my bathroom done to a shower room I'm just looking for a decent plumber
Would love to see the same kit fitted on a brick wall, as guess that would need to be channeled quite a bit
Hi mate, great vid but a couple of comments. You state mimum finished wall depth is 50mm - is it? Just received my box to go into a 50mm metal stud wall and the void is 50mm, plus 12.5mm for aquapanel, plus 8mm for decorative wall panel (and a copluple mm for silicone)...yet marrying all that up I still dont reach the minimum line to cut off the shroud off?
Also what is the platic square bracket thats supplied fitted around the v-box for?
Cheers
Any tips for those who not great with pipe bender ? I do plumbing as a multi trader ,but not to that level.
Enjoy watching all your videos!
Thank you
Practice with off cuts. Bends are less joints. Better job and save money
It looks like you’ve got 3/4” connections and backplate elbows, as well as 22mm size pipe going to outlets. If the hot and cold feeds are 15mm while did you uprate the pipe sizing for the outlets? Also are the box connections all 1/2”? You said you were using 1/2” to 15mm irons for the feeds. Are the outlets 1/2” too, if so what would be the point of running the outlets in 3/4” and 22mm? Are you downsizing to the backplates? Surely the hand shower and rose connections would be 1/2” so you’d have to down rate at the outlets? I see a lot of people doing this but I’ve never understood why because the water can only flow at the width of the smallest fitting.
Well done James
Great video, is there any reason you cant use flexi plastic pipe for the pipework behind within the walls? Thanks
Well explained great video hot water child safety adjustment inside the hot water knob cos see someone asking that easy I RUclips this sorted
Nickel is my favourite 😊
That is a nice shower tbf 👌🏼 also, that laser level looked decent, what brand is that ?
Love the vitra shower. It has to be the Matt black all the way. Will they work with any pressure ?
The V-Box works with pressure from 0.4 bar above :)
Good job. Well done, exactly how I do it with the minimum on the stud face unless it’s a grohe 😎
Been watching loads of your vids pal and I know being a seasoned plumber you love copper but, would you see anything wrong with using pushfit with a concealed shower unit? Am I asking for trouble down the line if I was to use pushfit for ease (not being a plumber or have the love to polish copper in a sexual manner) ?
How does the faceplate come off, having trouble
Amazing video mate
Looks great, I bet everyone loved it when your wife used it in the test rig!
Great vlog. Thank you
Great video as ever. I have installed a similar set-up in the family bedroom and all works fine.....apart from after the shower is off. The shower head is huge 400x600 and holds lots of water. Due to the surface tension/vacuum effect this drips out slowly over the next hour. Is there a valve of any sort that can be installed between the main shower controller valve and the shower head, to allow air in? It is not possible to move the head after a shower, as it has 2 fixings and the feed into the ceiling.
You could try a vacuum breaker valve, which would let air in between the shower head and the valve.
Steven Spielberg quality. Thanks
Hi james great video,what brand is the shower panel,it looks like a good finish
Looks like proper sponsored advert video
Just FYI for anybody looking to fit one of these in a 2" stud wall... it won't fit as minimum depth is 77mm, unless you have 30mm of board amd tiles
I can’t find the copper black or nickel fittings any where am I being daft is there a link for those ?
Hello! You can find the mixer plates in the various colours here www.vitra.co.uk/arama/hizliErisim.aspx?tip=U&lang=en-GB&srt=&text=origin&kat=21053&page=4
lovely pipework at what cost? millions of fittings where they dont need to be
Great video
Anyone use loctite 577 or similar liquid ptfe for the connections to the box instead of the loctite 55 thread?
I have both, I tend to use 55 on fittings like this and use 577 on radiator fittings.
Bollocks. I wish I’d gone for concealed now.
Copper Beautiful
Personally that pipe work needed to be on the outside and not hidden it was lush mate
Its a concealed shower valve for a reason 😂
@@metazoocorner yeah I k is I was just complementing him on the pipe work you knob.
Good Vid but I've already done it, 5 years ago🙂
Do video on quiet non kettling immersion heaters for people in flats that have tank close to bedroom.....
Your call all these videos but no real know ledge
you taped the vacuum to the timber.. so you don't have to hold it.. GOD DAMNIT WHY DIDNT I THINK OF THAT BEFORE
Feature yourself on plumbproud lol
Um where is the standard testing the shower at the end wearing one of your groovy vest tops???? You’re slacking Mr James
push fit , its the future.