I really liked watching this and learned several techniques that I will use as I build #4; prepping the braces for scalloping with the saw and stabilizing the braces for glue-up with the small blocks. Thank you for your videos
Yes I learned something I never knew. Are different guitars voiced differently, like Martin or dreadnought style. Thank you i have to digest your genius.
Lovely work. Did the modifications to the bracing work out? I've learned a lot from watching this. Thank you for sharing. I'm a 77 Year old retired muso / entertainer who makes a few Ukuleles & I've made two guitars so far. I'm loving it. Cheers from Australia.
Very interesting eric,thanks. I can’t believe how much material you’ve taken off the braces with your end escalopes starting way earlier than mine and going down low very early. Then you still take out the massive middle escalope on the x braces. Just voiced my 2nd guitar (first solo build) with a Sitka top and my braces stay at full height until the escalopes at the end but are all slimed down to a point in profile. Starting to think I should take more off now! My tops about 2.6mm at moment before final sanding etc.
Interesting video with lots of tips, thanks, but what are listening for when tap tuning at the end? And how then do you alter the shapes of the braces from the sounds you hear?
That was really interesting. Meticulous and very accurate work, a pleasure to watch. Regarding the scalloping, as you mentioned, the height of the bracing effects its stiffness. Therefore, by scalloping, the plate ends up with points of stiffness at the point of each scallop, which In turn will effect the sound. So is the location of each scallop point important?
Very cool! I have a question....on my Martin 0 plans, the transverse brace is flat on the glue face, all others are 30' radious. Do I glue that brace against a flat surface in my gobar deck?
Man that bracing seems light. Especially for a Cedar top. Beautiful work btw. My Martin with golden era bracing has that pyramid shape on all of the bracing peaks. Nice to see they took the time in a production guitar to do that. I knwo not all have it. In fact some can look downright rough. Mine are smooth as can be
Could not agree more. I’d like to see the top belly that one has after a year or two. Those are the deepest “scallops” I’ve ever seen. Been building since 2001.
His scallops are too deep because he isn't keeping his chisel arm secure to his breast and pushing with his feet, look how far away his elbow is when he scallops. Also when he holds the soundboard up for checking tone he's grabbing only the top and not pinching the the top and brace so thusly he isn't getting accurate feedback.
Do you add like a drop pf ca glue to the little brace blocks or double sided sticky tape? What do you put on so it doesn't rip up when you remove those little blocks?
Hey Eric great video as usual. What was the final opinion of the x-brace to torsion bar brace you added around the sound hole? Also like the method you used for carving all the braces.
They say if you find something you love to do, and can get someone to pay you to do it, you'll never work a day in your life. Looks like you found yours.
Hello Eric, Do you radius all your braces or just the x-brace, the long sound bar braces and the trasversal brace? Thank you for your informative videos. Best wishes
Drum sander, Dremel, band saw, shop vac, heat blankets, calipers, body molds, neck jig, as many cam clamps as you can afford(you'll need more) chisel set, Japanese backsaw, varying grit sandpaper, hardened steel fret snips, bowl sander, machined plane rulers small and large, titebond, chalk, and a planer tool. Did I miss anything guys? All of this is incredibly expensive and you won't make cent one until probably your tenth guitar. It's addictive.
Rolling pin sander, 2 routers of different sizes, rig for routing in binding, 2 bandsaws, one with wide ripping blade $200. All kinds of tiny hand planes, ear protection things, .023 fretsaw, gobar deck, about 800 routerbits. Moisture meter, brooms, dust system, heated woodbox, sanding dishes of different radiuses, oscillating drum sander, chisel sharpening stuff. old t shirt with no lint.
Is it possible to have the bracing arched away from the top and only glued at the vibrational nodes? Do you voice tops differently for open and drop tunings?
Those are the Go bar rods that Stewmac sells. They have a lot more clamp force than the typical go bars you get from the kite-making industry that you see most people using for go bar rods. I still use the weak 'kite' rods to dry fit certain things or in situations where I don't need a lot of pressure, but for actually gluing in the braces I love the newer yellow fiberglass rods. I'm not sure where stewmac gets em from but they're great.
Jeffrey Douglas - The circle cutting jig? I made one out of scrap, it screws on to my stew Mac base. You can also get a dremel brand circle cutting jig for $20. Check amazon or your local big box hardware stores. it is worth a try for that price
Just an observation. If strength is so important for the braces, why do you, and many other builders, then scallop most of the wood away in the very spot where the most strength is needed? Martin started this and you could certainly find a worse model to somewhat copy. However, I believe Martin would never measure brace strength or flex or tap their tops or backs. Rather, everything was cut to, more or less, specs and put together and then quickly, that magic word...next! In a marketing sense it's beneficial to give that air of almost mystical intuition and advanced knowledge ant technique. However, is the final product superior? Mmmmm... Enjoy your videos and wish you much success!
Thanks for the kind words. That is a very charitable term! There are still spots in the 2020 building workshops. I hope you can make it out someday buddy!
@@EricSchaeferGuitars I live in Argentina, here is almost impossible to even think about souch a travel. Here the things are too expensive and because of that I call this a dream. Sad but true.
Beautifully done. Thank you. Liked. However, there are some surface defects on the soundboard on the inside that will not be visible to the owner unless he uses a mirror. You won't have this types of defect on the outside. For me, the best luthiers would make the interior perfect even though no one else would ever know. I have a friend who does that even for the parts under glue never to be ever seen again. I think that this mentality makes a difference over a lifetime of building. Just a person's opinion.
The bracing is too light for cedar top of say 2.8 mm, the floating soundhole brace was absolutely unnecessary as the X brace in tandem with the soundhole patch is more than enough to do the job. Tap tuning is a science when it comes to violins because it has been studied and attempted to be quantified for them, for guitars with multiple braces, it's a pseudoscience at best and most of the time it's just random. Deflection test is more accurate for guitars. Bracing strength depends on its material, width, height and profile, for example a rectangular brace of 42 cm length and 0.8 cm width and 1 cm height has the same amount of strength as a triangular brace of the same length and width with 1.6 cm height. That also means if your bracing height is less than 5 mm then the strenth it offers is no better than not having a brace in that location. It will work akin to the soundboard patch used below the neck. Barely good enough to prevent wood splitting but won't offer any structural strength at all, and in worse cases it creates dead spots in the top with those pyramids, which might be helpful to cut down certain frequencies but at the cost of significantly increasing damping. I would definitely recommend reading up on structural engineering and acoustics before dangerously reducing braces to paper. My most important question here would be, within how many months did the top begin to belly?
I really liked watching this and learned several techniques that I will use as I build #4; prepping the braces for scalloping with the saw and stabilizing the braces for glue-up with the small blocks. Thank you for your videos
What notes do you look for when tuning that top? Beautiful soundboard, and beautiful video. Thanks for teaching.
Where is the link of the finished product? The floating soundhole brace is interesting how to how it affects tone.
Yes I learned something I never knew. Are different guitars voiced differently, like Martin or dreadnought style. Thank you i have to digest your genius.
Agree! Nothing better than a good sharp chisel. Like butter. Thanks for the video.
I can see this bracing is good .
cool. thanks for the detailed video. ..
Lovely work. Did the modifications to the bracing work out? I've learned a lot from watching this. Thank you for sharing. I'm a 77 Year old retired muso / entertainer who makes a few Ukuleles & I've made two guitars so far. I'm loving it. Cheers from Australia.
Very interesting eric,thanks. I can’t believe how much material you’ve taken off the braces with your end escalopes starting way earlier than mine and going down low very early. Then you still take out the massive middle escalope on the x braces. Just voiced my 2nd guitar (first solo build) with a Sitka top and my braces stay at full height until the escalopes at the end but are all slimed down to a point in profile. Starting to think I should take more off now! My tops about 2.6mm at moment before final sanding etc.
Interesting video with lots of tips, thanks, but what are listening for when tap tuning at the end? And how then do you alter the shapes of the braces from the sounds you hear?
I like the little blocks of wood to keep things from sliding. Very helpful video!
Very nice ... Thanks for sharing !! :)
That was really interesting. Meticulous and very accurate work, a pleasure to watch.
Regarding the scalloping, as you mentioned, the height of the bracing effects its stiffness. Therefore, by scalloping, the plate ends up with points of stiffness at the point of each scallop, which In turn will effect the sound. So is the location of each scallop point important?
Very cool! I have a question....on my Martin 0 plans, the transverse brace is flat on the glue face, all others are 30' radious. Do I glue that brace against a flat surface in my gobar deck?
Man that bracing seems light. Especially for a Cedar top. Beautiful work btw. My Martin with golden era bracing has that pyramid shape on all of the bracing peaks. Nice to see they took the time in a production guitar to do that. I knwo not all have it. In fact some can look downright rough. Mine are smooth as can be
I feel the same.. I think it's too light
Could not agree more. I’d like to see the top belly that one has after a year or two. Those are the deepest “scallops” I’ve ever seen. Been building since 2001.
He killed the x brace 😂 yet he teaches luthiery
His scallops are too deep because he isn't keeping his chisel arm secure to his breast and pushing with his feet, look how far away his elbow is when he scallops. Also when he holds the soundboard up for checking tone he's grabbing only the top and not pinching the the top and brace so thusly he isn't getting accurate feedback.
I have to agree, I would not dare going this thin on that x bracing. I like the braces directions in the upper part
Nice clean work Sir .What notes are you looking for when tapping the top ?
I addressed your comment in a new Q and A episode: ruclips.net/video/W2pDZ3u5DXI/видео.html
Do you spec light gauge strings for your instruments? Great video.
Interesting...stop blocks for gluing on the go bar deck. I've never seen that before
Makes things so much nicer, I think it comes from the violin world where the braces have to be shaped to the exact shape of the top .
Nice braces like mountains for the good guitar sounding?
What bracing strategy to make a rosewood dreadnought more responsive and articulate in midst and highs? Sitka
That bracing looks super light for cedar bracing on a cedar top.. Now I’m curious how thick you left your top. Neat x to traverse bar braces
That one is .127", basically 1/8". In the end it will likely be somewhere around .110"
Eric Schaefer - Light weight! Wish I could hear how much volume and bass that thing is going to pump out.
The two braces below the bridge plate is for prevention of bulging the belly?
Do you add like a drop pf ca glue to the little brace blocks or double sided sticky tape? What do you put on so it doesn't rip up when you remove those little blocks?
Hey Eric great video as usual. What was the final opinion of the x-brace to torsion bar brace you added around the sound hole? Also like the method you used for carving all the braces.
I can't understand why you killed the X brace in this wideo? The top became so floppy in the middle.
From which point of brace we should start slicing.. I mean how much longer the cut should be..am newbie for this stuff
What's with the bracing on top of the bracing around sound hole? Limits vibration?
As you were tapping it what was it you were wanting to hear. Was it a particular ring? Is it at all quantifiable?
I have a question…what is purpose of the small piece of wood place on top of where the X brace meets??
Are the braces and back radiused
They say if you find something you love to do, and can get someone to pay you to do it, you'll never work a day in your life. Looks like you found yours.
How to do you measure the weight radio in the braces?
Hello Eric,
Do you radius all your braces or just the x-brace, the long sound bar braces and the trasversal brace?
Thank you for your informative videos.
Best wishes
How much a space is required to set up ones workshop Sir...and what are the heavy duty machines are required to be bought ?
Kindly do advise please
Drum sander, Dremel, band saw, shop vac, heat blankets, calipers, body molds, neck jig, as many cam clamps as you can afford(you'll need more) chisel set, Japanese backsaw, varying grit sandpaper, hardened steel fret snips, bowl sander, machined plane rulers small and large, titebond, chalk, and a planer tool. Did I miss anything guys? All of this is incredibly expensive and you won't make cent one until probably your tenth guitar. It's addictive.
Rolling pin sander, 2 routers of different sizes, rig for routing in binding, 2 bandsaws, one with wide ripping blade $200. All kinds of tiny hand planes, ear protection things, .023 fretsaw, gobar deck, about 800 routerbits. Moisture meter, brooms, dust system, heated woodbox, sanding dishes of different radiuses, oscillating drum sander, chisel sharpening stuff. old t shirt with no lint.
It would be nice to know what radius you use. Do you glue the braces on a radiused board or do you force them down flat like Martin does?
Did you get the sonic payoff by placing sound hole struts around the sound hole connecting the transverse with the x bracing?
does the brace serves its purpose? because it looks like paper thin after being scalp thus strength becomes insignificant.
Why are tone bars angled in this way?
Does squew sawn mean the same as rift?
Yes, in fact, I'm not even sure 'skew sawn' is a thing lol, but I said it...
@@EricSchaeferGuitars 😂😂👍 I have aphasia and have to have three or four words for everything, so thought that was probably what you meant 🤔💭😂
Is it possible to have the bracing arched away from the top and only glued at the vibrational nodes?
Do you voice tops differently for open and drop tunings?
Good, there's another plate on the sound hole area
thank you Eric. question please what were the yellow rods ?
Those are the Go bar rods that Stewmac sells. They have a lot more clamp force than the typical go bars you get from the kite-making industry that you see most people using for go bar rods. I still use the weak 'kite' rods to dry fit certain things or in situations where I don't need a lot of pressure, but for actually gluing in the braces I love the newer yellow fiberglass rods. I'm not sure where stewmac gets em from but they're great.
@@EricSchaeferGuitars thank you
What kind of saw is that little one you’re using. I searched all over the webs and found nothing.
looks like a japanese push saw
Maybe. I found one similar it’s a veneer saw made by Crown in England.
Eric, I think I need you to sharpen my chisels. Lol
I've been cutting my rosettes my hand and I really need to get that dremel attachment.
Jeffrey Douglas - The circle cutting jig? I made one out of scrap, it screws on to my stew Mac base. You can also get a dremel brand circle cutting jig for $20. Check amazon or your local big box hardware stores. it is worth a try for that price
hey Eric i love your videos!!, what kind of a joint would you recommend i use for attaching the guitar to the body?
Hey Andrea, I answered this in a Q&A at this link: vimeo.com/387789076
In my experience a joint will definitely attach the guitar to your body.
i know that i want to do when i grow up
Great video but the music is too loud? Could you turn it off when you are speaking?
Just an observation. If strength is so important for the braces, why do you, and many other builders, then scallop most of the wood away in the very spot where the most strength is needed? Martin started this and you could certainly find a worse model to somewhat copy. However, I believe Martin would never measure brace strength or flex or tap their tops or backs. Rather, everything was cut to, more or less, specs and put together and then quickly, that magic word...next! In a marketing sense it's beneficial to give that air of almost mystical intuition and advanced knowledge ant technique. However, is the final product superior? Mmmmm... Enjoy your videos and wish you much success!
It is my dream to go an meet your workshop and learn a few things, you are a genius.
Thanks for the kind words. That is a very charitable term! There are still spots in the 2020 building workshops. I hope you can make it out someday buddy!
@@EricSchaeferGuitars I live in Argentina, here is almost impossible to even think about souch a travel. Here the things are too expensive and because of that I call this a dream. Sad but true.
Beautifully done. Thank you. Liked. However, there are some surface defects on the soundboard on the inside that will not be visible to the owner unless he uses a mirror. You won't have this types of defect on the outside. For me, the best luthiers would make the interior perfect even though no one else would ever know. I have a friend who does that even for the parts under glue never to be ever seen again. I think that this mentality makes a difference over a lifetime of building. Just a person's opinion.
you have to put a quarter in the soundboard to talk to anyone. just dial 9 for help seriously, i enjoyed the video, thanks.
The bracing is too light for cedar top of say 2.8 mm, the floating soundhole brace was absolutely unnecessary as the X brace in tandem with the soundhole patch is more than enough to do the job.
Tap tuning is a science when it comes to violins because it has been studied and attempted to be quantified for them, for guitars with multiple braces, it's a pseudoscience at best and most of the time it's just random. Deflection test is more accurate for guitars.
Bracing strength depends on its material, width, height and profile, for example a rectangular brace of 42 cm length and 0.8 cm width and 1 cm height has the same amount of strength as a triangular brace of the same length and width with 1.6 cm height. That also means if your bracing height is less than 5 mm then the strenth it offers is no better than not having a brace in that location. It will work akin to the soundboard patch used below the neck. Barely good enough to prevent wood splitting but won't offer any structural strength at all, and in worse cases it creates dead spots in the top with those pyramids, which might be helpful to cut down certain frequencies but at the cost of significantly increasing damping.
I would definitely recommend reading up on structural engineering and acoustics before dangerously reducing braces to paper.
My most important question here would be, within how many months did the top begin to belly?
This looked like V bracing?
Music sounds cool but... If you ditched it and added the sounds of you working on the instruments. You would get a TON more views. Truth. Good luck
i cant build shit .. but love watching you