Thanks a lot for interesting videos, great channel! One Tipp when you need to adopt the angle of the bridge plate to fit into the x-brace: take the woodworking shootingboard, it will allow you very easy and precisely shave a bit of the edge by keeping it straight and rectangular. A shooting board can be also easily made. Good luck building more guitars!
Fascinating! The bracing is a bit perplexing, but it will be interesting to see how it sounds. Ukuleles are essentially small guitars with low tension nylon strings. The bridge plate is a bit thinner than on a steel string guitar. The top is dead flat so any bulge or belly created by string tension is extremely obvious in the finished instrument. Most larger ukuleles (baritone and tenor) use fan bracing in the bridge area (most of the lower bout) to distribute the bending moment created by string tension pulling on the bridge/saddle. This keeps the top from distorting in a unsightly way. The radius on the parlor guitar top no doubt will provide stiffening benefit. But with my “ukulele roots” I would have made some fan braces.
Hello Eric, nice work. Did you come up with your own bracing system? Seems to me that your lower tone bar goes the wrong direction. At least on all plans and pictures it does vice versa. Or am I wrong?
Hi Eric, a question regarding the large brace above the sound hole. If i'm not mistaken you put a radius on it, so that the whole top is radiused. I thought the top should be flat above the sound hole, if it is radiused even above the sound hole, won't it be difficult to glue on the fretboard extension which is flat on that portion of the top which is radiused ? Thanks for your great content.
Hey Eric, Very cool as usual, I built 2 parlor sized guitars one for each of My Sons about 2yrs ago, I used a plan I bought from LMI .My biggest issue I had was the bracing layout that the plan called for the way the X-Brace layed out it was Very wide where the bridge plate was to be placed & the finished bridge ends would not be supported by the X-Brace. So my question is did you do your own bracing layout or did you go off a plan?? After I built the two guitars I did a modified drawing of the X-Brace so it came out kind of how yours looks so my bridge will be supported by the x-brace & bridge plate. Sorry for the rant, I can’t wait for the next vid to drop.👍👍🇺🇸🎸🎹🎼👨🏻🦯👨🏻🦯
Thanks a lot for interesting videos, great channel!
One Tipp when you need to adopt the angle of the bridge plate to fit into the x-brace: take the woodworking shootingboard, it will allow you very easy and precisely shave a bit of the edge by keeping it straight and rectangular. A shooting board can be also easily made.
Good luck building more guitars!
I addressed your comment in a new Q and A episode: ruclips.net/video/eraFsUhpxR8/видео.html
Very nice Eric. It is cool to see your process of operations. It is coming along very nice.
Really GREAT info on soundboard bracing!
Fascinating! The bracing is a bit perplexing, but it will be interesting to see how it sounds.
Ukuleles are essentially small guitars with low tension nylon strings. The bridge plate is a bit thinner than on a steel string guitar. The top is dead flat so any bulge or belly created by string tension is extremely obvious in the finished instrument. Most larger ukuleles (baritone and tenor) use fan bracing in the bridge area (most of the lower bout) to distribute the bending moment created by string tension pulling on the bridge/saddle. This keeps the top from distorting in a unsightly way.
The radius on the parlor guitar top no doubt will provide stiffening benefit. But with my “ukulele roots” I would have made some fan braces.
Hello Eric, nice work. Did you come up with your own bracing system? Seems to me that your lower tone bar goes the wrong direction. At least on all plans and pictures it does vice versa. Or am I wrong?
thank you Eric
“Doming” the top for strength…. If the bridge is pulling up on the dome wouldn’t it be stronger if the dome were inverted? Concave instead of convex?
Hi Eric, a question regarding the large brace above the sound hole. If i'm not mistaken you put a radius on it, so that the whole top is radiused. I thought the top should be flat above the sound hole, if it is radiused even above the sound hole, won't it be difficult to glue on the fretboard extension which is flat on that portion of the top which is radiused ? Thanks for your great content.
I've responded to your comment in this Q&A video. Check it out! ruclips.net/video/Ma-I2E0HwkI/видео.html
good vid, thanks. at 13:08 you use a file to fit the notch on cross brace. Is that a 1/4” Stewmac nut bottom file?
I've responded to your comment in this Q&A video. Check it out! ruclips.net/video/78aLqfHm3yw/видео.html
Hey Eric, Very cool as usual, I built 2 parlor sized guitars one for each of My Sons about 2yrs ago, I used a plan I bought from LMI .My biggest issue I had was the bracing layout that the plan called for the way the X-Brace layed out it was Very wide where the bridge plate was to be placed & the finished bridge ends would not be supported by the X-Brace. So my question is did you do your own bracing layout or did you go off a plan?? After I built the two guitars I did a modified drawing of the X-Brace so it came out kind of how yours looks so my bridge will be supported by the x-brace & bridge plate. Sorry for the rant, I can’t wait for the next vid to drop.👍👍🇺🇸🎸🎹🎼👨🏻🦯👨🏻🦯
I've responded to your comment in this Q&A video. Check it out! ruclips.net/video/Ma-I2E0HwkI/видео.html