Suggestions? I suggest that you do not touch your braces. I would first investigate neck/fret issues to find a dead note. Try dropping the tuning a half step and see if the notes are still dead or if the fret locations are dead. Then, drop a full step and check again. Odds are you will find the same fret locations will be dead in spite of the different note. Shaving braces can create benefit but it can also cause more trouble than you bargained for. If it is indeed a bracing issue there are techniques for finding the node that is causing the problem and then adding small patches inside the top as opposed to removing materials. Much safer but you need more info than I can give here.
Yeah is was watching a guy at CF Martin carving and was cringing as he came so close to the top that I would have bet he cut sound board fibers. Then I thought that if I were him I would have relieved the corners of my chisel. You just confirmed this rationality for me. Thanks for the great video as always.
you probably dont give a damn but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly lost my password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Micah Anakin Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I am not sure why you would say the braces are not quartered. Out of a sense of tradition I take great care to split and orient the grain "correctly". I put that in quotes because there is evidence that perfectly quartered material is not necessarily stiffer than other orientations with the same mass. I wrote an article on it in American Lutherie a while back.
I have a guitar that sounds like a million bucks but is a little lacking in the bass volume and sustain. What would you do to bring out the bass? I just read your bottom post.....I refretted this guitar three times.....everytime I refretted the bass response was a little weak.....not as balanced as the other strings. I do get a better response when I capo....the e string comes alive.....it seems to be only the E string. It's changing the tension? Maybe I should just use a .056 string and test it.....lights with a .056.
Thanks for info! Do you do the same stuff to the back? If so, are you trying to put it in some kind of relation with the top? For example, when I´m tuning violin plates, Im trying to put mode 5 frequencies of top and back a semi tone apart from each other. And last question.. if you are tuning the back.. where do you hit it? Thanks again for these great videos! :)
Yes I do tune the back as well. I also don't advise others in public forums as to how much or why as there are far too many "correct" ways to do it. We all must find our own paths. Fiddles and other bowed instruments are very different from guitars. Once plucked a string can only lose energy but when bowed energy is constantly applied. Therefore the wolf notes that are far more powerful in bowed instruments causing greater concern. I do recommend Roger Siminoff's book "The Luthier's Handbook" for some insight into wolf note control. His focus is on Lloyd Loars work with mandolins but it can apply to bowed instruments.
Hey, I got a question: how do you personally know hen to stop? I've had a hard time with it, it always feels like I could have taken a bit more. I know it's a personal thing and you don't want to bias us, but I still would like to have some kind of reference point. Thanks!
Way too much written about this by others much more experienced than I. I won't share exactly what I do but it is close to the theory of tuning the top down to the sound of cardboard and then building it back up with your braces. That included the rim.
hey Nelson. I have an acoustic guitar that was damaged on the back. since I already own it and run the repair business I was thinking to do a trial run on removing the back. I noticed the braces are very tall and the guitar sounds dull, midrangey and muffled. would there be any benefit on shaving the braces? can I open the sound more? thanks
When using braces for the back with a slight radius to give the back another 1/2" at the deepest point along the midline, how far should the back braces extend from midline to the edge? It seems I wouldn't want the braces all the way to the edge where it meets the side to allow for flush contact between back edge and side edge for gluing. Thanks
I am not sure why you would say the braces are not quartered. Out of a sense of tradition I take great care to split and orient the grain "correctly". I put that in quotes because there is evidence that perfectly quartered material is not necessarily stiffer than other orientations with the same mass. I wrote an article on it in American Lutherie a while back.
Very useful! Thank you!
Thank you.
Suggestions? I suggest that you do not touch your braces. I would first investigate neck/fret issues to find a dead note. Try dropping the tuning a half step and see if the notes are still dead or if the fret locations are dead. Then, drop a full step and check again. Odds are you will find the same fret locations will be dead in spite of the different note.
Shaving braces can create benefit but it can also cause more trouble than you bargained for. If it is indeed a bracing issue there are techniques for finding the node that is causing the problem and then adding small patches inside the top as opposed to removing materials. Much safer but you need more info than I can give here.
Yeah is was watching a guy at CF Martin carving and was cringing as he came so close to the top that I would have bet he cut sound board fibers. Then I thought that if I were him I would have relieved the corners of my chisel. You just confirmed this rationality for me. Thanks for the great video as always.
Thank you so much for the information! This is the most informative video on bracing anywhere on RUclips. This video was a big help.
you probably dont give a damn but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly lost my password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Reign Bishop Instablaster :)
@Micah Anakin Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Micah Anakin It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Reign Bishop No problem :)
I am not sure why you would say the braces are not quartered. Out of a sense of tradition I take great care to split and orient the grain "correctly". I put that in quotes because there is evidence that perfectly quartered material is not necessarily stiffer than other orientations with the same mass. I wrote an article on it in American Lutherie a while back.
Your videos are great, so much useful information. Many thanks. Be nice to see some new ones?
You gave some good tips ! Thanks
I have a guitar that sounds like a million bucks but is a little lacking in the bass volume and sustain.
What would you do to bring out the bass?
I just read your bottom post.....I refretted this guitar three times.....everytime I refretted the bass response was a little weak.....not as balanced as the other strings. I do get a better response when I capo....the e string comes alive.....it seems to be only the E string. It's changing the tension? Maybe I should just use a .056 string and test it.....lights with a .056.
Very informative! Thanks!
Thank you for this video, amazing information!
Hi Nelson. Thanks for all of your videos - they have helped me alot. Can you recommend any books on tap tuning? Thanks in advance.
Read Siminoff's "The luthiers hand book". It's not a how to but a good walk through what the hell is going on.
If the soundboard sustains longer, the strings will sustain shorter.. Simple science.
This makes no sense.
Great videos! looking to build an OM next any good plans you know of? free is nice too if you know a site.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for info! Do you do the same stuff to the back? If so, are you trying to put it in some kind of relation with the top? For example, when I´m tuning violin plates, Im trying to put mode 5 frequencies of top and back a semi tone apart from each other. And last question.. if you are tuning the back.. where do you hit it?
Thanks again for these great videos! :)
Yes I do tune the back as well. I also don't advise others in public forums as to how much or why as there are far too many "correct" ways to do it. We all must find our own paths. Fiddles and other bowed instruments are very different from guitars. Once plucked a string can only lose energy but when bowed energy is constantly applied. Therefore the wolf notes that are far more powerful in bowed instruments causing greater concern. I do recommend Roger Siminoff's book "The Luthier's Handbook" for some insight into wolf note control. His focus is on Lloyd Loars work with mandolins but it can apply to bowed instruments.
Hey, I got a question: how do you personally know hen to stop? I've had a hard time with it, it always feels like I could have taken a bit more. I know it's a personal thing and you don't want to bias us, but I still would like to have some kind of reference point. Thanks!
Way too much written about this by others much more experienced than I. I won't share exactly what I do but it is close to the theory of tuning the top down to the sound of cardboard and then building it back up with your braces. That included the rim.
hey Nelson. I have an acoustic guitar that was damaged on the back. since I already own it and run the repair business I was thinking to do a trial run on removing the back. I noticed the braces are very tall and the guitar sounds dull, midrangey and muffled. would there be any benefit on shaving the braces? can I open the sound more? thanks
thank you. i did not notice but did you need a mic to do that ?
Yes, a cheap desk mike. Nothing special
When using braces for the back with a slight radius to give the back another 1/2" at the
deepest point along the midline, how far should the back braces extend from midline to
the edge? It seems I wouldn't want the braces all the way to the edge where it meets the
side to allow for flush contact between back edge and side edge for gluing. Thanks
What apps are you using for the spectrum analyzer and O-scope?
It's just Peterson Tuner.
I see those braces are not quarter sawn ...
I am not sure why you would say the braces are not quartered. Out of a sense of tradition I take great care to split and orient the grain "correctly". I put that in quotes because there is evidence that perfectly quartered material is not necessarily stiffer than other orientations with the same mass. I wrote an article on it in American Lutherie a while back.
Your videos are great. Your guitars look and sound amazing. This guy's just a clueless troll. Pay him no mind