Thank you for showing people how to do this right. I have watched too many hacks do this on youtube with big hammers and sockets beating on their drive shafts causing damage. I need to do this on my truck and will follow your approach to do it right. Oh yeah, nice lift. Once you have one you will never go back to crawling under a vehicle.
when you press the caps in, it also squeezes the yoke together (not enough that you can see it) which causes the u-joint to be stiff. If you'll take a rubber mallet and smack the back of each side of the yoke it will relieve the tension from pressing the caps in and the joint will loosen back up to how it should be.
Things that might help with a project like this: Ball Joint Press: amzn.to/2DGk6e9 AC Delco U-Joint: amzn.to/3sD3Hi0 This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
Good ear! I would've sworn it was the brakes squeaking, but there's no denying that U-joint was bad. I've always used a vise to change u-joints, but since I have a tool like yours I'll try that next time!
I use my home made press to press my u joints, they do feel stiff too, what I do is hold up the drive shaft while the freshly pressed in u joint dangling downwards, then, strike the "ears" of the driveshaft with the new u joint you just pressed in, it should loosen up.
Those must have been replaced before , mine didn't have c-clips I had that Plastic that GM used to hold the joints in. I couldn't get them out. Brought them to a shop cause I thought I was going to ben my shaft, which that guy probably did. I had the same tool as you, but didn't have an impact at the time. Now I have one.
RedWhiteAndBlueVideo Yup, that joint was replaced and probably tweaked the ears some. The factory does use plastic to lock the joints in. If this joint doesn't last very long I will be searching junk yards for a new shaft with factory joints.
Great video, thanks for sharing. I'm planning to do all my U-Joints as a PM due to miles (200+K). and yes, in this video your rear rotors "look" grooved.
I've had problems with mine knocking out pinion bearings in the rear end I am going to have to check the runout on the differential case could be out of balance!
+Greg Robinson Yup, probably bent from the guy that took out the factory joints. So far so good with the new one but I don't expect it to last as long as if the ears weren't bent. We will see I guess.
Great job - thanks. Is there any rubber seal that might be worth replacing while this is all taken apart. Either in the front transmission connection or the rear differential. Thanks!
The piece you are referring to as being installed backwards is a "Zerk fitting." Named for its designer, Oscar Zerk. (Or just "grease fitting." Or grease nipple. Not a "grease-sert.")
I like the shot with the cam mounted to hear the U-Joint squeak. Gopro? How did you mount it? Also, what impact is that Dewalt 18v?. -Really great job with your repairs and documentation. So many cool tools and equipment!
Kevin Shea I used my JVC Everio to get the squeak. I have a magnetic mount that I made. The impact is a Dewalt 18V. I have a video on it in my "product spotlight" playlist. Glad you are enjoying the videos.
Again great job - happened to be watching Eric the car guy video at 5:20 and he indicated Zerk fitting goes towards the driveshaft always which you indicated was incorrect. Looks like yours was on correctly in the first place according to Eric. Which is right?
Where the grease fitting was I couldn't fit the grease gun to grease it. Probably why the joint failed so quickly. I installed the new one correctly. That might be true for Hondas but not gm trucks.
My 2009 Z-71 has a tick 2-3 times when I put a load on it forward or reverse, even from a stop sign. Think that's a u joint? almost sounds like it's in the middle of the shaft. It is aluminum. Great video. Might get one of those kits. Harbor Freight might have it.
The slip yoke can make some noise on take off. Some people grease it up. I watched a video awhile ago the guy took off a heat shield or skid plate that was making a noise on take off.
Great vid. Question- when I go to replace the joint into the saddle, the retaining clips prevent it from seating. Do I have to press the caps in a little so that it fits correctly? Usually I wouldn't have to do that. The part is correct.
The retaining clips have to go in so yes you have to press it on far enough to get them in. If the joint is tight after that you can press it the other way to loosen it up a bit.
I wouldn't be concerned about the new u-joint being stiff, I never put one in which was not tight; all were tight till they break in...I think it is the right thing to replace them both while it's out for the cost of the part though. Also when the shaft starts to corrode and gets "build up" it throws them out of balance so if thats the case send it out for re-bal to take care of it; the truck will vibrate even though the tires are balanced and front end is good so it can drive you nuts trying to figure the source..That shaft is clean not like here on the rust belt..Good vid..
Veikra I don't think I put enough force on it to bend the ears. I am pretty sure the guy that put the last u-joint in backwards was the one that tweaked the ears. If this joint doesn't last very long I will be looking in junk yards for a driveshaft with factory joints.
Veikra Our local driveshaft guy is gone. I could probably put it in our press and work it until the joint was free. There are probably tons of driveshaft at the junk yard. Probably cheaper too.
Should I be worried about how careful I am removing and reinserting the yoke to not ruin the seal for the yoke? What grease should I use for the yoke? I'm guessing their shouldn't be a lot of fluid that comes out if the truck is level.
It would be hard to wreck the seal for the driveshaft yoke. Just install slow and add a small amount of trans fluid on the seal before installing driveshaft. You might loose a small amount of fluid but it shouldn't be much.
I know this is old but I have the same truck and just replaced the same rear u joint and mine was tight too. I haven't reinstalled it on the truck yet. My question is did did the u joint hold up? I've been trying to teak the joint around to find the sweet spot but the previous owner must have messed it up. It's not the factory u joint so it was replaced once.
I have sold the truck but it was fine the whole time I had it. I have done several other u joints and they all seem to be tight now. Not sure what the manufactures are doing. Seems like the joints are made just a tad to big. I think you will be fine. Just get it as free as you can.
You did it the hard way. Next time, rest the exposed pins of the u-joint on the jaws of an open vice. Then hit the yoke just behind the cap that is facing up. The cap should then pop out. Then turn the driveshaft over and do the same. This way, you are not pushing the one cap in only to have to try and push it back out plus you are only trying to move one frozen cap at a time
Because those are the easy parts. If you can't figure out how to get the driveshaft out and the clips out you surely won't be able to get the u-joints out and installed.
I am not trying to be mean. Most u-joints are a bitch and if you struggle with the easy parts I wouldn't even attempt the joints. Easier and probably cheaper to just have a shop do it.
If they are a little tight wack the yoke with a hammer and it will loosen up! If you have the factory plastic retainers you just heat em up with a torch and it melts out!
So easy to replace both u-joints at the same time and not have to worry about it for a long time. U-joints aren't that expensive and are cheap insurance. Besides, the front u-joint usually has more angle than the rear one and usually wears out first.
mossman381 I hear what you're saying but the reason is the part is cheap. an extra twenty bucks to know it's good IS cheap insurance. I got other things to do on my truck, the last I wanna do is the same job twice.
Over the years replacing parts I have found that sometimes you get bad new parts. And it's getting more and more common. I am going to try and keep all OEM parts on the truck until they are actually worn out.
Any ideas on taking off a stripped transfer case bolt ,ive tried a few different things n nothing. I got a 02 yukon 5.3L v8 4x4 , the truck has over 200,000 but runs amd drives mint for the miles
Sometimes you can use a different size socket. Like one size smaller or standard instead of metric. Or even a 12 point socket instead of a 6 point. If you find one that is a tight fit you can pound it on with a hammer and sometimes you can get lucky.
mossman381 ... That may be true, but it's still good practice to mark them. A lot of the time you won't know it's out of balance until parts start wearing out faster.
So i had a guy do this for me he did not mark it, at 45mph the truck shook violetly then kept blowing the carier bearing about a year later i found out that the dumb azz did not mark the shaft so i had another shop redo it and they sent the shaft to get balenced.... now there is a small vibration from the punkin because of the unbal shaft for a year. it was about $500 to have the shaft bal new u joints and carer baring but to go into the punkin the shop wants $1200 just to start could go up or mabe less MARK THE FN SHAFTS PEOPLE!
I recall years ago I had a reputable shop install new joints in my 88 IROC with an alloy shaft. When I picked up the shaft, I noticed that the joints were a bit stiff. The guyy said they would loosen up over time, or he could do something, i forget what, to get them loose. I asked him to loosen them up, and he did...... so I guess it's normal.
jewllake The joint should be a little looser than this one. It will work but probably won't last as long. The guy that did the joint before me probably tweaked the ears a little. Probably could fix it with the press. If I have trouble with it I will try and fix it.
+mossman381 yes in theory they should never wear out. but I've seen two sets that looked fine. put the new ujoint in nice and tight then in about 1k miles later the ghost vibration came up. replaced the straps and vibration went away. but in both cases trucks had over 300k on them. weird but for as cheap as they are I just replace them.
I didn't mark the shaft and never had any issues. I did tap the joint but it wouldn't loosen up. My conclusion is the person before me tweaked the ears on the shaft.
Hey man I have a 2002 avalanche and this shop is charging me $845 to fix this same exact noise you had. Is this a good price? Which parts did you get to fix this?
I think the joint is $20 or so. You can double that if you do both joints. Then time to pull the drive shaft and install the joints. Shouldn't take that much time for a good mechanic.
One joint on a 2003 Suburban is 22 bucks and the other is like 13 bucks on Amazon. For that price worth just doing both at the same time. Those are the AC Delco parts
Need some help on 03 chevy Silverado 1500 4X4. I'm having trouble with 354 greasable u joint towards the transfer case. It's suppose to fit but I'm having trouble putting back on an one side is fitting right but the other side won't go in for the one side. Any ideas?
If you are talking about the cup not going in they should go in pretty easy. If you force them you could bend the ears. If you cleaned the ears and made no burs then they should go in with little effort. I would say something is wrong and you need to start measuring stuff. Wouldn't be the first time a new part was made wrong.
Do not but the U joint he has linked as it is not the correct one for a 99 z71. Not sure if that was his mistake or Amazon's but the link is 100% NOT the correct u joint
You are correct. Just looked it up and it's not the right joint for a 2000 1500. Not sure what happened. Here is the right joint for the rear of the driveshaft on the rear axle: amzn.to/3sD3Hi0 I have fixed my other links as well.
@@mossman381 good stuff. Great video it helped me out alot. Just had used that link and got the wrong one. It happens. Figured i would try and save someone the hassle of having to do the return. Thanks for replying and fixing it!
@@jacobhughea8568 I am glad you said something. I don't want people to get the wrong parts. I am trying to help. I would suggest you always check fitment on all parts people link. This truck is a 2000. Even though the 99 is pretty much the same truck joints/parts could be different from year to year.
+Russell Vaughan Not sure I have heard them make a crunching noise. Usually they are a squeak. Check your brakes or maybe the brake shields to make sure they aren't broken and rubbing. I would do a really good visual inspection and see if anything is loose under the truck.
My wife 2006 tahoe made really bad grind humming noise at different speeds especially around 63mph.for 2 years was checking everything in suspension,even did one rear u joint towards the rear diff. Then decided to change both u joints on rear shaft and the wierd noise at 63mph went away
Just wondering what you call that grease fitting? A grease cert or greaser ? Only reason I ask is those were invented in my hometown , kenosha, wi. By a man named Oscar Zerk. Hence the name Zerk fitting :)
you should have took it back apart and filed a scosche off of each end of the needle bearing race and that would have loosened it up. It might loosen up on it's own but if it don't it's going to get hot and its going to prematurely fail.
That can be the slip joint on the trans/transfer case. Depending on if you have 4wd truck. If a joint was bad enough to clunk it would be making all kinds of other bad noises. I had a truck that would clunk going into reverse and even at a stop sign sometimes taking off. I took off the driveshaft and lubed the slip yoke and that did seem to help for a short time. It started doing it again. Without actually seeing your truck I am just guessing at this point.
@@mossman381 checked auto zone and the joints I checked wasn’t specific on the designation front or rear so I assumed both are the same. I’ll keep researching until I get a definite answer. Thank you my friend.
Just went to advance yesterday and purchased 1- $19.99 U-joint, and rented the exact u-joint removal tool he has for about $240.00 which I will get back when I return the tool. Im going to be using my impact for the job but im sure it wouldnt be that bad if i had to break out a ratchet.
@@mossman381 I have done hub assembly's, ball joints, and other's on my truck. If you think you're sitting high you can kiss my ass. You have a poorly made video and you're mad about it.
Yea that's diffently the right tool for the job but there ant no way I'm gonna go there the trouble removing my drive and just replace one end .you got it right there why in the world would you not do both.
Why replace a part that is good? 4 small bolts to take off the joint straps and the driveshaft comes out. If you have trouble pulling the driveshaft I would suggest not doing the joints.
You can put the joint in between a vise and tap on it to loosen the joint. I couldn't get this one to loosen up because the previous person must have bent the ears.
I had a 2002 Silverado 3500 that would make a noise when taking off from a stop sometimes. I wouldn't call it a clunk. That was the slip joke and is pretty common. If yours is so bad it's clunking, then you can probably go under your truck and move the joint by hand. Be careful putting the repair off. I have heard of joints completely locking up and driveshafts exploding. When you hear them squeaking it's time.
Thank you for showing people how to do this right. I have watched too many hacks do this on youtube with big hammers and sockets beating on their drive shafts causing damage. I need to do this on my truck and will follow your approach to do it right. Oh yeah, nice lift. Once you have one you will never go back to crawling under a vehicle.
+Michael Bilotta Glad to help. The hoist is great.
same here.
when you press the caps in, it also squeezes the yoke together (not enough that you can see it) which causes the u-joint to be stiff. If you'll take a rubber mallet and smack the back of each side of the yoke it will relieve the tension from pressing the caps in and the joint will loosen back up to how it should be.
Chance Sanborn thanks Chance that's exactly what I was wondering and this explanation was great. Thanks!
Worked perfect taping the sides loosened it right up
Finally, I found a video of someone working with a drive shaft more similar to my GMC van. Thanks for posting... it helped a lot!
Glad to help.
Best thing to do afterwards if U joints seems a bit tight take a hammer and tap around the outside you should loosen everything up
Things that might help with a project like this:
Ball Joint Press: amzn.to/2DGk6e9
AC Delco U-Joint: amzn.to/3sD3Hi0
This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
Good ear! I would've sworn it was the brakes squeaking, but there's no denying that U-joint was bad. I've always used a vise to change u-joints, but since I have a tool like yours I'll try that next time!
farmboy30117 I was 90% sure it was a u-joint :)
I love that big c press. Use it for all sort of work, besides what it was made.
I love it too. Makes quick work of some difficult jobs.
Dont get a cheap one though
I use my home made press to press my u joints, they do feel stiff too, what I do is hold up the drive shaft while the freshly pressed in u joint dangling downwards, then, strike the "ears" of the driveshaft with the new u joint you just pressed in, it should loosen up.
Great Video! Thank you for sharing this! Doing mine tomorrow with a ball joint press as well.
Those must have been replaced before , mine didn't have c-clips I had that Plastic that GM used to hold the joints in. I couldn't get them out. Brought them to a shop cause I thought I was going to ben my shaft, which that guy probably did. I had the same tool as you, but didn't have an impact at the time. Now I have one.
RedWhiteAndBlueVideo Yup, that joint was replaced and probably tweaked the ears some. The factory does use plastic to lock the joints in. If this joint doesn't last very long I will be searching junk yards for a new shaft with factory joints.
Great video, thanks for sharing. I'm planning to do all my U-Joints as a PM due to miles (200+K). and yes, in this video your rear rotors "look" grooved.
Buen trabajo Amigo gracias por el vídeo esta herramienta nos ahorra mucho trabajo y tiempo para cambiar las crucetas del cardan
Saludos Amigo.
I've had problems with mine knocking out pinion bearings in the rear end I am going to have to check the runout on the differential case could be out of balance!
Great video
it looks like the ears on that drive shaft is bent in slightly that might be why they are so stiff turning! love the video great job!
+Greg Robinson Yup, probably bent from the guy that took out the factory joints. So far so good with the new one but I don't expect it to last as long as if the ears weren't bent. We will see I guess.
I cant imagine how much noise is coming from the brakes. The rotors are about 3x overdue for replacement.
Great job - thanks. Is there any rubber seal that might be worth replacing while this is all taken apart. Either in the front transmission connection or the rear differential. Thanks!
If you have a slip yoke there is a seal but if it's not leaking I would leave it alone.
The piece you are referring to as being installed backwards is a "Zerk fitting." Named for its designer, Oscar Zerk. (Or just "grease fitting." Or grease nipple. Not a "grease-sert.")
I like the shot with the cam mounted to hear the U-Joint squeak. Gopro? How did you mount it? Also, what impact is that Dewalt 18v?. -Really great job with your repairs and documentation. So many cool tools and equipment!
Kevin Shea I used my JVC Everio to get the squeak. I have a magnetic mount that I made. The impact is a Dewalt 18V. I have a video on it in my "product spotlight" playlist. Glad you are enjoying the videos.
Again great job - happened to be watching Eric the car guy video at 5:20 and he indicated Zerk fitting goes towards the driveshaft always which you indicated was incorrect. Looks like yours was on correctly in the first place according to Eric. Which is right?
Where the grease fitting was I couldn't fit the grease gun to grease it. Probably why the joint failed so quickly. I installed the new one correctly. That might be true for Hondas but not gm trucks.
My 2009 Z-71 has a tick 2-3 times when I put a load on it forward or reverse, even from a stop sign. Think that's a u joint? almost sounds like it's in the middle of the shaft. It is aluminum. Great video. Might get one of those kits. Harbor Freight might have it.
The slip yoke can make some noise on take off. Some people grease it up. I watched a video awhile ago the guy took off a heat shield or skid plate that was making a noise on take off.
Great vid. Question- when I go to replace the joint into the saddle, the retaining clips prevent it from seating. Do I have to press the caps in a little so that it fits correctly? Usually I wouldn't have to do that. The part is correct.
The retaining clips have to go in so yes you have to press it on far enough to get them in. If the joint is tight after that you can press it the other way to loosen it up a bit.
Thank you! My 2000 is startimg to make a racket and this will help point the mechanics im the right direction. What was the cost for this?
I do all my own repair work so this only cost me what the joint cost. $20-30 maybe, can't remember what the joints cost.
What size is your stock rear axle in that 02 chevy 2500hd? Not the gear size. Thanks....
I wouldn't be concerned about the new u-joint being stiff, I never put one in which was not tight; all were tight till they break in...I think it is the right thing to replace them both while it's out for the cost of the part though. Also when the shaft starts to corrode and gets "build up" it throws them out of balance so if thats the case send it out for re-bal to take care of it; the truck will vibrate even though the tires are balanced and front end is good so it can drive you nuts trying to figure the source..That shaft is clean not like here on the rust belt..Good vid..
Thanks for the video ,im def buying one of those tool presses!!!
Glad to help.
This is the same noise my 09 Tahoe was making thanks
Glad to help.
I have the same exact tool kit for balljont and u joints. works great but need to be carefull not to bend the ears of the driveshaft
Veikra I don't think I put enough force on it to bend the ears. I am pretty sure the guy that put the last u-joint in backwards was the one that tweaked the ears. If this joint doesn't last very long I will be looking in junk yards for a driveshaft with factory joints.
or you bring it to a driveshaft place to straighten them
Veikra Our local driveshaft guy is gone. I could probably put it in our press and work it until the joint was free. There are probably tons of driveshaft at the junk yard. Probably cheaper too.
Should I be worried about how careful I am removing and reinserting the yoke to not ruin the seal for the yoke? What grease should I use for the yoke? I'm guessing their shouldn't be a lot of fluid that comes out if the truck is level.
It would be hard to wreck the seal for the driveshaft yoke. Just install slow and add a small amount of trans fluid on the seal before installing driveshaft. You might loose a small amount of fluid but it shouldn't be much.
I know this is old but I have the same truck and just replaced the same rear u joint and mine was tight too. I haven't reinstalled it on the truck yet. My question is did did the u joint hold up? I've been trying to teak the joint around to find the sweet spot but the previous owner must have messed it up. It's not the factory u joint so it was replaced once.
I have sold the truck but it was fine the whole time I had it. I have done several other u joints and they all seem to be tight now. Not sure what the manufactures are doing. Seems like the joints are made just a tad to big. I think you will be fine. Just get it as free as you can.
@@mossman381 awesome. ill put back in the truck. thanks for the fast reply.
You did it the hard way. Next time, rest the exposed pins of the u-joint on the jaws of an open vice. Then hit the yoke just behind the cap that is facing up. The cap should then pop out. Then turn the driveshaft over and do the same. This way, you are not pushing the one cap in only to have to try and push it back out plus you are only trying to move one frozen cap at a time
I would like to see an unedited video of that. This tool is way easier than beating on it with a hammer.
PCFree48 I build and repair driveshafts for a living and what you explained is exactly the way I do it. We don’t have special tools in our shop.
they always install tight. you have to releive the joints by smacking the ears with a hammer a couple times.
Looks like said moog 353 which mine says but you have a ac delco # in the link listed
If I could choose which joint to get, I would get AC Delco all day long. Moog was probably all I could get at the time.
Do you use locks on the u joints that are bolted down?
Why did you not record how to take out the drive shaft, or the retaining clips off the ujoint?
Because those are the easy parts. If you can't figure out how to get the driveshaft out and the clips out you surely won't be able to get the u-joints out and installed.
mossman381 im learning, this is why I watched the video, no need to be condescending.. i got what I needed from another vid, thanks tho
I am not trying to be mean. Most u-joints are a bitch and if you struggle with the easy parts I wouldn't even attempt the joints. Easier and probably cheaper to just have a shop do it.
This man I swear sounds like the boxing trainer Freddie roach
If they are a little tight wack the yoke with a hammer and it will loosen up! If you have the factory plastic retainers you just heat em up with a torch and it melts out!
Eric S do you have to melt them out? I got my u joint out already
So easy to replace both u-joints at the same time and not have to worry about it for a long time. U-joints aren't that expensive and are cheap insurance. Besides, the front u-joint usually has more angle than the rear one and usually wears out first.
No reason to replace a good part. Pulling the driveshaft isn't that hard.
mossman381 I hear what you're saying but the reason is the part is cheap. an extra twenty bucks to know it's good IS cheap insurance. I got other things to do on my truck, the last I wanna do is the same job twice.
Over the years replacing parts I have found that sometimes you get bad new parts. And it's getting more and more common. I am going to try and keep all OEM parts on the truck until they are actually worn out.
Any ideas on taking off a stripped transfer case bolt ,ive tried a few different things n nothing. I got a 02 yukon 5.3L v8 4x4 , the truck has over 200,000 but runs amd drives mint for the miles
Sometimes you can use a different size socket. Like one size smaller or standard instead of metric. Or even a 12 point socket instead of a 6 point. If you find one that is a tight fit you can pound it on with a hammer and sometimes you can get lucky.
drill it out! then retap! if not. dyno MIGHT! 😀
Wait a sec, you didn't mark the driveshaft to keep it in sync when you put it back???
You can mark it and put it back the way it came out.
mossman381 ... That's what I was saying.
I have not marked them before and put them back with no issues.
mossman381 ... That may be true, but it's still good practice to mark them. A lot of the time you won't know it's out of balance until parts start wearing out faster.
So i had a guy do this for me he did not mark it, at 45mph the truck shook violetly then kept blowing the carier bearing about a year later i found out that the dumb azz did not mark the shaft so i had another shop redo it and they sent the shaft to get balenced.... now there is a small vibration from the punkin because of the unbal shaft for a year. it was about $500 to have the shaft bal new u joints and carer baring but to go into the punkin the shop wants $1200 just to start could go up or mabe less MARK THE FN SHAFTS PEOPLE!
I recall years ago I had a reputable shop install new joints in my 88 IROC with an alloy shaft. When I picked up the shaft, I noticed that the joints were a bit stiff. The guyy said they would loosen up over time, or he could do something, i forget what, to get them loose. I asked him to loosen them up, and he did...... so I guess it's normal.
jewllake The joint should be a little looser than this one. It will work but probably won't last as long. The guy that did the joint before me probably tweaked the ears a little. Probably could fix it with the press. If I have trouble with it I will try and fix it.
just FYI you guys should replace the ujoint straps the do wear out over time esp if the joint has been walking in and out.
Not sure how the straps would wear out. Even if the needle bearings are wore out the cup on the strap won't move.
+mossman381 yes in theory they should never wear out. but I've seen two sets that looked fine. put the new ujoint in nice and tight then in about 1k miles later the ghost vibration came up. replaced the straps and vibration went away. but in both cases trucks had over 300k on them. weird but for as cheap as they are I just replace them.
I think there are stops so the cup can't move side to side. There is really no possible way to wear them out.
lol. I have had many that the cups have rotated in and straps were replaced
Time to upgrade to some Dana-Spicer drive lines and universals! ☺️
Thanks for the video. Nice shop.
Glad to help.
I notice you didn’t mark the driveshaft and didn’t get it with a hammer around the knuckle of the u joints to make them not be so tight
I didn't mark the shaft and never had any issues. I did tap the joint but it wouldn't loosen up. My conclusion is the person before me tweaked the ears on the shaft.
Hey man I have a 2002 avalanche and this shop is charging me $845 to fix this same exact noise you had. Is this a good price? Which parts did you get to fix this?
I think the joint is $20 or so. You can double that if you do both joints. Then time to pull the drive shaft and install the joints. Shouldn't take that much time for a good mechanic.
One joint on a 2003 Suburban is 22 bucks and the other is like 13 bucks on Amazon. For that price worth just doing both at the same time. Those are the AC Delco parts
Just wondering what brand of U-joint that is and if you know if its us made?
Thanks.
BigGing82 I believe the brand was Precision. Not sure if it was US made but it was the more expensive joint not the cheaper ones.
mossman381 Thanks, great videos man.
Need some help on 03 chevy Silverado 1500 4X4. I'm having trouble with 354 greasable u joint towards the transfer case. It's suppose to fit but I'm having trouble putting back on an one side is fitting right but the other side won't go in for the one side. Any ideas?
If you are talking about the cup not going in they should go in pretty easy. If you force them you could bend the ears. If you cleaned the ears and made no burs then they should go in with little effort. I would say something is wrong and you need to start measuring stuff. Wouldn't be the first time a new part was made wrong.
Do not but the U joint he has linked as it is not the correct one for a 99 z71. Not sure if that was his mistake or Amazon's but the link is 100% NOT the correct u joint
You are correct. Just looked it up and it's not the right joint for a 2000 1500. Not sure what happened. Here is the right joint for the rear of the driveshaft on the rear axle: amzn.to/3sD3Hi0 I have fixed my other links as well.
@@mossman381 good stuff. Great video it helped me out alot. Just had used that link and got the wrong one. It happens. Figured i would try and save someone the hassle of having to do the return. Thanks for replying and fixing it!
@@jacobhughea8568 I am glad you said something. I don't want people to get the wrong parts. I am trying to help. I would suggest you always check fitment on all parts people link. This truck is a 2000. Even though the 99 is pretty much the same truck joints/parts could be different from year to year.
Noise was probably from the front yoke, GM trucks are notorious for this.
Nickel plated yoke is the fix. Clunk fix-
Part # 12477702.
could u-joints cause a crunching noise? at very low speeds my truck sounds like i'm running over an aluminum can
+Russell Vaughan Not sure I have heard them make a crunching noise. Usually they are a squeak. Check your brakes or maybe the brake shields to make sure they aren't broken and rubbing. I would do a really good visual inspection and see if anything is loose under the truck.
@@mossman381 My Z71 4WD did the crunching noise. I replaced the front axles and hubs.
When you let of the gas driving down the road does it make a weird noise only at higher speeds
A bad U-joint will usually make noise under load and direction changes.
My wife 2006 tahoe made really bad grind humming noise at different speeds especially around 63mph.for 2 years was checking everything in suspension,even did one rear u joint towards the rear diff. Then decided to change both u joints on rear shaft and the wierd noise at 63mph went away
Just wondering what you call that grease fitting? A grease cert or greaser ? Only reason I ask is those were invented in my hometown , kenosha, wi. By a man named Oscar Zerk. Hence the name Zerk fitting :)
RedWhiteAndBlueVideo You can call them grease zerk or grease fittings. Actually you can call them what ever you want as long as you grease them :)
Do you press both bearing races at the same time?
One at a time is easier.
you should have took it back apart and filed a scosche off of each end of the needle bearing race and that would have loosened it up. It might loosen up on it's own but if it don't it's going to get hot and its going to prematurely fail.
+Elliott Todd It wasn't too bad. I think it will loosen up but if it don't when I replace it again I will have to press the ears back in place.
If the universal is stiff it could be that's the caps aren't seated squarely
Could a bad u joint be the cause of the clunking my truck makes when going into reverse?
That can be the slip joint on the trans/transfer case. Depending on if you have 4wd truck. If a joint was bad enough to clunk it would be making all kinds of other bad noises. I had a truck that would clunk going into reverse and even at a stop sign sometimes taking off. I took off the driveshaft and lubed the slip yoke and that did seem to help for a short time. It started doing it again. Without actually seeing your truck I am just guessing at this point.
@@mossman381 I have a 2001 silverado 1500 ls extended can 5.3 liter Vin code(T) mine has the center support bearing too and torsion bar.
@@mossman381 only noise I hear is only the clunking going into reverse nothing else.
Is the center support bearing ok?
@@mossman381 it's getting pretty rusted out looks like the rubber is smashed together
Nice job!
Front and rear the same joint?
Not sure. Should be able to look it up online on the bigger websites. I use Advance Auto a lot.
@@mossman381 checked auto zone and the joints I checked wasn’t specific on the designation front or rear so I assumed both are the same. I’ll keep researching until I get a definite answer. Thank you my friend.
Did this fix the noise? I have the same issue.
Yes, this was the issue.
mossman381 how long did the new u joint you installed last? Mine was a little snug like yours and I'm worried it may not last
I have an 07 Tahoe and it makes a weird rumbling noise when I drive (stays the same volume and speed) could this be a u-joint issue?
+Bawnquishasm A u-joint is usually a squeak like in the video. How do your brake rotors look?
My brakes are looking good. I found out the issue was a pinion bearing needing replacement
could help but notice the condition of your rotors
+devon rogers What is this suppose to mean? Is this to make me look bad or what. I know the condition of my brakes.
thank acara ini , makin baik aja
spicer says never to reuse them they should be replaced.
ever time i put my 2000 gmc truck in gear i hear a weird click sound. could this be my problem?
+Danielle Homoki It could be. This was more of a squeak not a click.
Thx ! Good video !
Glad to help.
What if you dont have the press?
+TheMightybasstone I would take it to a mechanic then. Doing these with a hammer and vise is difficult.
TheMightybasstone rent it from parts store
Just went to advance yesterday and purchased 1- $19.99 U-joint, and rented the exact u-joint removal tool he has for about $240.00 which I will get back when I return the tool. Im going to be using my impact for the job but im sure it wouldnt be that bad if i had to break out a ratchet.
What's the part number on that needle type deal...lol
wish you gave part #s...
Any auto parts store should be able to look them up easily and they should have them in stock.
The Brake front left looks not good....
On my 2002 Silverado z71 my U-Joints have 2 different size caps😕
I don't think they are suppose to be different sizes.
chupacabra 146 ù7
Same here I’m pissed about it
No video of the install, nice...
If you can't install a driveshaft you have no business changing u joints.
@@mossman381 I have done hub assembly's, ball joints, and other's on my truck. If you think you're sitting high you can kiss my ass. You have a poorly made video and you're mad about it.
@@mossman381 BTW I meant pressing them back in, you douche.
Pressing them back in is the same EXACT thing as pushing them out. I think we all know who is mad and a douche.
Yea that's diffently the right tool for the job but there ant no way I'm gonna go there the trouble removing my drive and just replace one end .you got it right there why in the world would you not do both.
Why replace a part that is good? 4 small bolts to take off the joint straps and the driveshaft comes out. If you have trouble pulling the driveshaft I would suggest not doing the joints.
mine started sqeaking was going to grease it but some dumbass put it in backwards, now I have to replace it
Many people install them backwards :)
Ty
an it sounds like its coming from it but wasn't sure
Are you in SW Wisconsin? I could use you lol
Central Wisconsin.
where at in central wisconsin are you located?
I think your squeak is your rear PS rotor breaking in half.
Did you watch the video??? I found the problem.
Zerk fitting
you kno what ?.....the most important part you just skip like it dont even matter....manipulating that joint into the mounting spot...show us...please
If I didn't show it, you should be able to figure it out.
He left out the Tips on putting it Back and how loosen it..
You can put the joint in between a vise and tap on it to loosen the joint. I couldn't get this one to loosen up because the previous person must have bent the ears.
Mine did the same thing
I just paid $300 for replacement 😠
I find it easier and quicker with an old rusty socket and a hammer lol
I hear a clunk sound on mine
I had a 2002 Silverado 3500 that would make a noise when taking off from a stop sometimes. I wouldn't call it a clunk. That was the slip joke and is pretty common. If yours is so bad it's clunking, then you can probably go under your truck and move the joint by hand. Be careful putting the repair off. I have heard of joints completely locking up and driveshafts exploding. When you hear them squeaking it's time.
@@mossman381 thank you I’ll try that it was clicking sound turned to clunk ?
necesito comprar uná prensa
How much torque does your impact have?
Not a lot. This is an older 18v but it shouldn't take a lot of force to remove and install u joints.