99-07 Silverado U-Joints Front & Rear How to Replace
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2020
- How to remove and install Chevy Silverado U Joints 1999 - 2007. 4.3 4.8 5.3 6.0 2wd 4x4
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great info vid ..The c-clamp was a right cool idea; What bout puttint the new joints in the freezer 4 a few hours
Yes! I completely forgot about that. I did that once to get bearings in my ATV. Pinning your comment to the top, thanks.
Why do you freeze em
It microscopicly shrinks the bearing so it will fit more easily. Extreme cold causes metal to shrink, and extreme heat causes it to expand, which is why sometimes you will see people use a torch when working on a car.
What’s up guys I’m sure you already know but If the freezer doesn’t do it and you’re still in a bind dry ice works wonders. We used it when replacing the brass sleeves
and rings in the gyro mills and a few other zero tolerance industrial headaches. Whatever you do always be careful And never drop a little piece or two in a Gatorade bottle half full of H2o and screw the lid down tight. If this unfortunate series of events happen shake throw run😏
Lol
"You dont want dirt on this" *proceeds to drop it on the ground 3 times*😂😂😂 thanks, good vid and had me chuckling.
Good job with the video. It’s been years since I’ve done this. Appreciate the refresher!
Looks fairly comprehensive and I’ve done this for my truck so I KNOW what I’m saying when I say This Guy Knows what he’s doing!
Thank you
Very well explained, nice tips along the way.This video helped alot with my silverado.thanks
Thank you sir, I'm glad you liked the video.
Excellent video..One of the best videos when explaining step by step.
Thank you!
Thanks bud. Helpfull tips and a good visual guide.
good video, I like how you admit that you didnt do something perfect and you explain why! also how you expose potential mistakes. I had a noise in the front driver side 200 miles from home(Leadville). it wasnt a wheel because of the frequency. I got underneath and I could move the front drive shaft 3/16" side to side. I refuse to get screwed on mechanical work so I went across the street and bought some red spray Lucas solvent lube, sprayed the shit out of the u joint and made it home. Who knows if the lube did anything but I made it back to Fort Collins. I'll revisit your video when I replace the front u joints. Guys like you make wrenching easier. dont be afraid of filming everything, even simple stuff. sometimes people leave stuff out. Thanks. RS.
Going to do this tomorrow with no experience, This has helped Aton
Good luck
This is a very informative video footage of how you do it yourself always great video footage from your channel
Thanks, I thought so too- so I don't know why there are still naysayers in the comments and dislikes on the video. Some people just love to nitpick and be negative I guess. I appreciate the support man.
First time watching your videos. I hit the subscribe button due to the commentary. Was informative and funny. Enjoyed the video
Thanks for subscribing!
Good vid. Simple driveway techniques. Love it.
Yes sir!
Really great video had mine took out in a hour since this is my first time, not hard at all just time consuming and annoying sometimes but for the most part easy
Great video, Thanks! Ball joint press works wonders compared to a hammer though!
Thanks allot man this video was super helpful
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Great video! Thank you it helped immensely
Thanks for the video man very thorough
The good Ole Claw hammer just feels good workin on cars. I do the same.
The guy holding the drives haft was very trusting with the hammer guy😂
Great video and I got my answer. Taking it to a shop.
I can 100% confirm that renting/buying a u-joint press turns this job from a 1-2 hour job Into a 15-30 min job. If you work on your car to save money It wouldn't hurt to save time too.
As another viewer pointed out, freezing them would have helped to. I think if I froze them then all would have went pretty smooth with just the c-clamp. But a u-joint press is definately something I would like to get my hands on...
@@BuckeyeBallistics u can rent them for free. Or buy a used set or a cheap set online
Great video…. Having a small rattle on my drive shaft - 2000 Sierra regular cab 4wd push botton.
Thanks for posting this video. I'll be doing this to my '99 Sierra this weekend if I can get the U-Joints.
My pleasure
Good job guys.
such helpful thank you
Good job. I did both of mine on my 05 Chevy truck and discovered that the grease gun tip will not fit in the u-joint,
I even ground down the tip. I had to remove the driveshaft completely.
And by the way it was a bich of a job pounding and pounding. Then realized it was inner clips not outer clips.
And the parts store gave me the wrong size u-joints. Then they gave me two different kinds. Third trip back to the parts store I decided just to get tacos and screw this crap.
Note: they got the taco order wrong.😔
What a crappy day! 😅
Need a needle tip for your grease gun some yotas have split shaft with zerk fitting too
One thing I might add is to mark your drive shaft so you get it in the same way it came out.
Personally I've never done that and have been fine. If the driveshaft is balanced, it shouldn't matter. I got into quite the argument with another commentor about this if you wish to read my reasons and explanations, because it is too much to type for a second time. But that guy was being a jerk- you're not. I'm perfectly fine with people marking the shaft and putting it back in the same way, and perfectly fine if they believe it makes a difference. I just personally don't believe it matters, especially after numerous times of removing shafts and never marking them and it having never made a difference. But I fully respect if you think it makes a difference, and if you do, then by all means mark the shaft if you wish. In any future driveshaft videos I will make note of this being the preferred method by some, in case the viewer wishes to follow such a suggestion. It only takes 2 seconds to do it afterall...
@@BuckeyeBallistics thanks for your reply. I'm a novice but I like to do what I can which I usually learn from RUclips videos. I guess it makes sense if the drive shaft is balanced off of the vehicle it won't matter how you put it back. Thanks again.
@@drivewaygarage1561 My pleasure, thank you for watching and commenting.
I love how u wrre like dont wanna get any dirt on this and then instantly goes in dirt and then u drop it in gravel later lmao.🤣
I'm only human afterall...
Brother you was supposed to chalk mark the drive shaft too.😊
Needle noses with a bend in the end help too
I dont think it was mentioned, but if theyre the original factory ujoints theyre glued and you should hit them with a torch to melt the glue before removing them, you may have a hard time or it may be completely impossible to remove them without nuking the glue.
Just figured this out the other day. What a pain!
@@stevescuba1978 Really is satisfying watching the lil plugs fly out though
Part numbers for front and rear ?
be honest. how many times did that drive shaft fall out since installing it here in this video? i promise i wont get mad
thanks, you can pull the joint out of the transmission without it dumping fluid anywhere?
Depends on vehicle, condition of seals, level or not level vehicle, and level of fluid in trans. Basically, yeah probably or you might lose a few drops- but I'm not promising anything.
Did you have to add a grease to the end that went into the the transmission? Outside/inside?
No but you can if you want
after u get it all together hammer on the drive line a little the joints with walk a little and free up
What were the moog part #s for your application 270 and 290?
Also wondering this, I have 2 of the 290’s, will that not work?
Should I mark the drive shaft so I put it back in right????
I never do but a lot of people swear by it. It only takes a few seconds so why not.
What about making marks so the shaft is put together and put back in place the same way it was together and the way or position it came out in
Go for it
So I have a 2007 Chevy Silverado classic 1500 4.3 V6 2wd so are the U Joints front and back the same or different?
No clue but on this truck they were different if I recall correctly. Like they looked identical/nearly identical, but had different part numbers.
My whole driveline fell out on the road but the 2 caps and 4 bolts that holds it in place is still bolted onto truck...can anyone explain how that's possible and if it tore something up?
Did you break the ends of the driveshaft off? Hard to tell exactly what you're dealing with, would have to see what you're talking about to tell you. I would just closely examine what's in this video and compare to what you have and make an analagy as to what failed.
Your u joint wore out so much it had so much slack the unjointed could have fell out or you broke one of the ends off the joint and it fell out of the other hole into the road.
Will the bad U joint cling on acceleration? That's what happens on my 05 Silverado but only on acceleration from a complete stop; like from a parking spot or stop light. The noise isn't there while driving.
Yes it can and will, but not always. Usually it's a chriping/squeaking noise that progress with speed, on hard or takeoff acceleration. A 1 time clunk/clank type sound sound from a dead stop *could* be the u-joints, but it could also be other things like gear mesh, output shaft bearing, trans mount, spline play, etc. It's best to get under the truck and check for play by jerking the driveshaft around in all different directions around the u-joints.
@@BuckeyeBallistics I appreciate the advice and will check that out. I posted a clip of the issue if you get a chance to check it out. The issue was there when I purchased the vehicle. I assumed it was a bad u-joint and wouldn’t be much of a problem to replace.
Yeah I can't tell from that video (watched it). I would have to crawl under it and do what I said I do to find whether or not it is the u-joints. I guess next time I should make a video about how to check them- u-joints in my Durango are next.
@@BuckeyeBallistics No worries. I’ll definitely check for play in the driveshaft tomorrow. I appreciate your time and advice tonight!
@@pnw224yo man did you ever figure out what was wrong with your truck having the same problem
If only you would've punched the other 2 caps first and the first two caps last you would've had it made! Nice vid though man!👍
Did I do it backwards? 😅
Does the transmission leak all of the fluid once you pull the drive shaft?
Only a little (drops) and you might not lose any...
little late on commenting on this video, but i gotta 4x4 2004 silverado with u joints in the front and rear both needing to be replaced, these exact two. can you link the ones you bought so i could order the correct ones? auto parts stores tend to have no clue what i mean. thank you
This was a V6 2wd truck... your joints are likely different.
Just a question would it be safer to use a brass hammer so it won't mushroom and with using the c clamp which is a great idea could you grease the outer cap and use a socket that fits the whole when clamping just a thought dont know if it will work
Yes, yes, and yes. Also freezing the bearing will make it microscopicly shrink and fit more easily.
@@BuckeyeBallistics yep qe have done that dry ice on bearings but like you said its like in the thousandths but we have done it on die cast machines
What’s the part number for the rear one
Yo mark it good with alignment marks so you can match it back up exactly like it came out. Front and back so it goes back on in balance.
So how does one do that when replacing their driveshaft or upgrading to a better one? They don't because it's an all new shaft that has never been mounted, and because the shaft comes pre-balanced and it doesn't matter which way it goes in. But due to all the people that think the old one has to go back in in the same orientation that it came out, I started mentioning the mark in my later videos for those who believe it's necessary...
Maybe put it on in the same configuration it came off may be of some benefit ? Driveshaft shops often rebalance the driveshafts. I don't know if they have the new u-joints in place when balancing. It's probably trivial for most applications.
My 2004 extended cab has 3.
The auto shop said they were all the same.
Now I'm worried I may have the wrong one.
Maybe for yours, since it's different, are the same?
Iirc 4x4s have 2, they have these 1 piece driveshafts, rwd have 2 piece driveshafts and have 3 ujoints and a carrier bearing
Im guessing how to tell if the u joints are bad you’ll hear it ? Or does that mean the rear is bad? I heard a loud banging in the rear 99 sliverado I’m hoping it’s only the u joints & not the rear itself
Well there are several symptoms of bad u-joints. This one in particular, we had a vibration at certain speeds. Almost felt like a tire wobble, but the truck had new (balanced) tires on. We inspected the driveshaft and found that the u-joint was bad.
You can check this first of all visually, if there is any damage to the joint itself (I have seen cracked and busted caps). But generally, put it in nuetral (with the tires blocked) and grab and twist/shake/jerk both ends of the saft and see if there is any movement from the u-joints. If you have movement, it's bad.
Other symptoms can include a squeaking sound, grinding, etc. And I suppose a banging sound if it's bad enough... Impossible for me to tell without driving it myself.
was there a little hole under that driveshaft-transmission seal ?
Can't recall and I don't have access to the truck anymore to look (wasn't mine).
Measure your bearing caps on both axis , autozone only has 1 and was wrong size, or O’Reilley had several but we had to go one by one to get the right size on the bearing caps. So a Micrometer will be your friend.
Learn from my mistake took me 6 hours driving back after getting the wrong ones and fighting with the part store that yes there’s different bearing caps for the same vehicle , he realized I was right after going through multiple different ones
would it matter if the slip yoke was put on the other end?
Yes potentially- I'm not sure if both ends are identical. But even if they were, it could throw the balance off depending on the location of any balancing weights that may be attatched.
Can this cause clunking noise when it revers sometimes if they are bad?
Yes absolutely
@@BuckeyeBallistics I just the you joints on the shaft and inside the transmission they’re not moving so does that mean they are good? I did get my tranny rebuild last year with a warranty so I’m guessing it could be something in there or the transfer case
It's hard for me to tell without actually grabbing it with my own hands and yanking on it in every direction and turning it. And still sometimes when they are bad, they are still tight trying to yank on them until they get bad enough. Take off hard from a stop and if you hear a squeaking sound for a second or two then it is definately them. But there are lots of things that can cause a driveline clunk- like the splines, trans mounts, carrier bearings, and yes stuff inside the transmission or transfer case. And unless you're sure it's in the driveline, there are tons of other *non* driveline thing that could clunk when you back up as well...
What was the part # s for those u joints
Don't know man, they were parts my buddy got because it was his truck. But I can tell you they were Moog joints and they were bought at Advance Auto Parts, but you can buy Moog anywhere if you're trying to find a pair.
Why did you skip the yoke?
Heat with a torch, sometimes it's the only way it will come apart
Hey what's the ujoint part number for the correct rear aluminum cap ujoint?
Sorry but I don't have that information. Most parts stores these days can look up your vin to get you the right one...
Okay thanks. You're supposed to use the coated ones directly for aluminum shaft
Is it the same for the 4x4
Yes but they use a different driveshaft and u-joints
I'm always runnin into what knot,...
Idk about anyone else but mine all in bolted and will not budge at all
Adding to prior comment
Because aren’t driveshafts balanced at factory to the yolks they’re assembled with
Idk about that, but I never used to mark my driveshafts and never had any problems on any of the vehicles. But people started leaving comments about marking the driveshafts so now I include that in my driveshaft/u-joint videos to keep everyone happy... pretty sure I said something about it in this one, maybe not.
How did you get them off I’ve been spraying and trying to get them off and still no luck
Get what off? Bolts? U-joints?
@@BuckeyeBallistics sorry, the bolts
I mean, they just came out. I've been working on cars for almost 20 years, and sometimes bolts come out easy, sometimes they don't. If you've already sprayed it with pb blaster or similar penetrating oil/spray, then you either need a longer wrench/breaker bar on them for more leverage/power, an impact gun, or need to torch the metal part that the bolt threads into so it will expand and release the bolt. You can slide a pipe over your existing wrench to make the handle longer to give you more power, or slip a box end wrench over it at the right angle to do the same thing. Sometimes it helps to tap around on it with a hammer to help break it lose, similar to how an air chisel would be applied to do the same thing. I'm not sure how limited you either are or aren't on tools or experience, so that's why I'm trying to cover all the bases. Hope this helps...
Next time you should put some Vasoline on them caps be wayyyyy easier, so your not hammering them back on
It would just scrape it off as it went in
Should the shaft on the transmission be loose?
Depends on what you mean by loose
@@BuckeyeBallistics it has a lot of play
@@BuckeyeBallistics is there a bearing or something that holds the shaft in place?
Yeah, the tailshaft bearing.
@@BuckeyeBallistics is it hard to replace?
Did you mark your drive shafts position before removing? They have weights on them to balance and you can cause more issues latter on if you put it in balanced wrong..
No but I thought I mentioned that in the video. In my experience, I've never had an issue putting them back on in whatever position though, as was the case again with this truck. That's kinda like saying when taking a wheel off, to put it back on in the exact same position that you took it off from because they have balancing weights- it doesn't really matter. But I do believe I mentioned marking it in the video for people who think it makes a difference...
@@BuckeyeBallistics I mean... Balancing weights on tires totally do matter.. Thats why when you go to a tire shop the balance your tires.. It doesnt exactly do anything bad for that part or at that time. But down the road it can cause warping on other parts of the vehicle.
No, you misread what I said. Of course weights on a tire matter, just as they do on a driveshaft. What I was saying was the tire is balanced just like the driveshaft, yet you don't mark you tire when you take it off to do brakes and then put it back on do you? That was my point, that it's not really necessary. It's not necessary with a wheel and tire which are balanced- so in the same manner, it's not necessary with a driveshaft. Not to mention I've had plenty of driveshafts in and out of vehicles and never marked them and never got any vibrations when putting them back in. But that's just my opinion and you are free to think differently...
@@BuckeyeBallistics oh boy bud. You're runnin on half a cylinder aren't ya?
@@BuckeyeBallistics I am speaking in terms of longevity. You are speaking in terms of "it works so its good".
You changed the front u-joints in this video??
Both front and rear on the driveshaft, yes. I showed both ends. You miss stuff when you skip through the video...
@@BuckeyeBallistics So they weren't GM original u joints? I am dealing with originals with the nylon lockring.
@@BuckeyeBallistics Just rewatched the whole video, you are installing the u joints for the rear driveshaft. You don't install u joints on the front driveshaft.
@@BlackIrishx8x No, they weren't. As I said, you miss stuff when you skip the video. I explicitly stated/showed in the video that they were Moog u-joints. Sorry, but I just wish people would watch the video that I put my time and effort into answering all these questions before they ask these questions that are already answered within. It's a little frustrating to have to repeat myself because someone was too impatient to watch the mere 13 minutes for the answers...
*Driveshaft* - The thing that goes from the trans to the diff...
Do you remember where you got the ujoints from
Advance Auto Parts
@@BuckeyeBallistics thanks I bought some from there and they are not the right size 🤦
See if they can enter the vin# to get you the exact ones you need. These trucks had a bunch of different lengths of driveshafts and different corresponding u-joints.
@@BuckeyeBallistics thanks bud
👍
Got damn it boi hold the camera right😅
Gotta specify the truck bro, good video otherwise. Im in the middle of doing these but seems like i got 2 identical joints whicb wont work. But i have a 02 silverado v8 4wd
It's a 2wd v6, but that doesn't have anything to do with whether you ordered the wrong parts or the guy behind the counter gave you the wrong parts...
@BuckeyeBallistics ya the lady sold me 2 rear joints so I'm going to see if autozone got a front and replace one with that. Hopefully cuz I'm tryna get them pressed and my drive shaft back up today. Thanks tho
Should use your vin# to look up the exact parts. The joints vary depending on the driveshaft used and they used like 10 different driveshafts in these trucks depending on engine, bed length, cab length, 4x4 or not 4x4, 1500 or 2500 etc...
Is this a 2WD???
Yeah
@@BuckeyeBallistics maybe my half shafter axle is the problem for me.. My truck shakes to much at 50mph.
Idk, could be numerous things.
@@BuckeyeBallistics yeah
Couldn't we just Sawzall the old ones out?
I have transmission fluid leaking
If it still leaks after you put the shaft back in, then the seal needs replaced...
I can't continue..twice you drop the yoke in the dirt.
'Dont let dirt get on this' drops it in the driveway 🤣
Shit happens, clean it off. The other day I was doing the struts on my Mustang and the top mount on one seperated and all the little bb's for the bearing went everywhere. Picked em all up, cleaned, re-packed the bearing assembly with grease, and back on it went. Shit happens, it's not the end of the world. You two are the ones who need a video to show you what the hell to do, not me. Now who's laughing... I am 😎
You can relax man, I'm laughing cause its relatable! The last time I did u joints I broke 2 of the 4 bolts off and spend 2 days cussing and stomping haha
@@BuckeyeBallistics your a real defensive guy lol I hope you have a good day and for what it's worth video wasnt very helpful just entertaining
@@jacknelson3044I feel your pain.. u joints are a pain no matter how you try to do them.
My luck the clamp shoots out
Pinion seal is bad
pretty sure both u joints are the same on this vehicle.
I know they look identical but if I recall correctly, different part numbers. If that's the case, then they most certainly are different. Depends on the engine/cab/drivetrain too. There were almost 10 different driveshafts for this single year of silverado lol.
@@BuckeyeBallistics I might only be right about MY truck then. But when I checked my exact build on ACdelco, if you pay attention to the groups of part numbers, they come in fours. so the same part is good for rear shaft at the rear axle, rear shaft at the transmission, front shaft at the transfer case, front shaft at the front axle. I have a 2002 Silverado 1500 4x4 LS 5.3L. All four are the same. idk if the Z71 has a different one for the center bearing or not.
@@BuckeyeBallistics Also, mine is a one piece rear drive shaft and the single front, of course.
Yeah this is a 2wd 4.3 V6 single cab long bed I think
The yoke shaft is split. Junk truck .don't try this on your own .
It’s not split that’s the casting lmao. The ignorance in this comment section is comical
This was hard to watch. Some people shouldn’t make RUclips vids.
58,192 current subscribers disagree with you, 390 of which subscribed from this video alone. You keep thinking whatever you want while I laugh all the way to the bank- this video alone has payed my mortgauge 3 times now and has helped a lot of people...
Is the ujoint location the same in a z71 1500 like the smooth one goes in the front transmission side and the one with grooves goes in the rear end
Sorry but I have no clue
@@BuckeyeBallistics I can’t find anything and I don’t wanna rip apart to find out so I think I’m going to go with your choice . Thank you for the response
Did yours have 2 or 4 inside snap rings
I work on too many vehicles to remember something that specific about 1 single vehicle from several years ago (sorry). Only thing I can tell you is they are truck/make/model specific. Like the V6 u-joints usually won't work on a V8 truck, 2wd joints won't work on 4x4 etc. Even different cab and bed lengths have different driveshafts. As long as you give the autoparts store the correct make/model/exact trim (vin # if possible), then you should have the right ones. Also they should be able to tell you which ones go where. But if you google the part numbers, there should be exploded diagrams on some of the parts supplier sites that show which one goes where. Hope this helps...