I think the best feature about this kit is 1. The air gap for cooling cells 2. Replacement of cells is possible and reusable parts are good for the environment.
To prevent cold solder joints, heat the back side of the connector with the soldering tip and put the solder on the far side of the wire. This will ensure that all areas of the connection are hot enough to melt the solder for a solid solder joint.
Many thanks for your videos. I was quoted a lot of money for re celling my poor battery, so I have followed your videos and made one up using Vruzend system and bms. I’ve just come back from a 50% longer than usual ride and saddle sore☺️. It cost me half as much as re celling or buying a new lower capacity battery. The bonus is that I have had the pleasure of making it myself, and now understand the system. It’s 24v with four cells in parallel. Is that 7S4P? I’m going to increase it to six in parallel sometime soon. Your videos are clear and informative.
hey...I'm thinking of making my Tesla power wall. I m being seeing your video and they are great. but can you make one video of the next step or the gear wee need to charge the battery from solar and connect it to the house? thxs
Purchased a 10S BMS and had great communication from Micah whilst the BMS was on its way. After roughly 12 rides and charging cycles the eskate longboard stopped working. Narrowed the fault to the BMS and reached out to Micah for advice/support. That was three months ago. Very disappointed that there was no reply. Now I'm looking for a reliable BMS for my 10S 3P battery pack.
Hey bro. I've just made my own 1000w 48v e-bike, but I've ran into some problems. The bike kit is made for 48v, but i made a 55v (15s with 4 recycled 18650 batteries per cell) battery! A lot of people said that almost all e-bike esc's can handle a few more cells, but doesn't that mean it pulls more amperage? I found out that my 5 x 20a BMS'es in series setup wasn't powerful enough, so I bought five new 100a BMS'es. (Haven't installed them yet) Now, I had to change out one cell (4 batteries) because after i had ran my bike for a while (unprotected, without a BMS), i felt that some of my batteries were getting hot, and wouldn't cool down. When I checked the voltage the next day, all the 4 batteries were completely dead. Most of the 4 batteries that is in parallel is the same brand, but the cells in series are different brands because they're recycled. (If you understand what I'm trying to say), but does it mean that I might have floored it too hard, and my batteries couldn't handle the amperage? Should i maybe put on at least another battery on each cell, or is it because i ran it unprotected? I'm thinking about rewiring the whole battery pack to 48v, and just add a single 48v BMS. (Sorry for my shitty writing)
So I bought your book about a week ago, haven't got thru it all yet but so far really good info. The one thing I'm confused about with BMSs though is, if I have a 3S30p battery, do I need thirty 3s BMS boards? Or would you treat each of the 30 cells in parallel as one and then only need three 3s BMS boards?
At 2:10 you crimp and solder the main wire to the negative side of the pack. Hos do you get such a big wire to solder to the plate? Also these plates are quite tricky to get them to actually "crimp" onto the wire. Got any tricks? I'm currently trying to attach an 8 awg wire to 3 crimp connectors on the negative side of the pack.
Hi Micah, great job, I realy love the idea off the terminal caps, but why don't you use a plastic bold and nut in between each 4 cells to keep the top and bottom off the pack together, so you also can use old cells or cells whitout the plactic cover, which do not fit tightly in your terminal caps. the bolds also prevent the pack from falling apart because of vibrations. btw are you planning for a 16s BMS?
I ordered a kit and will look into your book too. You mentioned it can be tricky to remove cells from the holders. Can you provide any pointers on how to facilitate this process? I would assume it begins with removal of the bus bars and disassembly of the individual cell elements. What is the best way then to slide the caps off? Another question, I'd like to fuse each cell with PTC resettable. Do you have a recommendation as to how this could be configured with the Vruzend system, perhaps by soldering onto bus strips?
What is the need for the BMS? Seeing a lot of videos that say don't use them. I'm new to the ebike's world and have little to no electronics experience. Do you cover BMS and other equipment more in depth in your book? Thanks for the videos btw
Yes, there's a whole chapter devoted to the pros and cons of BMSs. BMSs make charging much simpler, and also offer protections during charging and discharging. However the cheap quality ones can fail without you knowing, so its not a good idea to buy the cheapest quality ones (like anything in life...).
Hi, i am looking at the kit to be used in conjunction for a E-MTB build I am working on. I will need a flat section battery so may have to use silicon wire to connect the parallel packs. Looking at the build video I am concerned with the nuts shaking loose as you don't seem to be using any sort of anti-shake washer, nyloc nut or thread-lock. Having one of those nuts come loose later on after the pack has been shrink wrapped would not be good. Also, i can see there might be an issue with the crimping only option of the tails connectors. I can see the only option is soldering for these which is ok. I have considered a non-insulated nickel crimp lug then bolting to the battery post but am thinking that the length of the post may not be long enough. In concept, a very good idea and I am very impressed. What are your thoughts on the points? Many thanks for your time, Mark
I don’t know if you already have but if not I recommend you to do this in Spanish, I’m talking about the books any way bro thanks a lot this video is very helpful
I just got your DIY book, its great. I also just ordered two 36v BMS's from VRUZEND.com. My question is, I have a FOCBOX (VESC) controller on my 10s4p skateboard, do I still need to run the discharge of the battery through the BMS or is that handled by the FOCBOX? My friends say not to discharge through the BMS.
Bought and love your book. Half way through. Awesome safety section! Should be required reading for anyone building a pack. Question. If I have 100 18650 cells (new LG) and want to build a pack to run an inverter for a fridge (120VAC, 80 watts continuous, 700 watts start up or so). What's the safest pack configuration in general? Is there a general rule of thumb? I live in Hawaii so worried about heat where we are going to place the battery. Thanks!
Thanks! I'd recommend a 14s7p with a 48VDC to 110VAC inverter, if you can find one, or a 7s14p with a 24VDC to 110VAC inverter, which may be easier to source.
So the p- (blue) is basically your negative discharge wire and the c- (black) is the negative charge wire and it goes with the positive red charge wire?
Hey man thanks for the thorough walkthrough. I used your kit to build my 7s7p pack for a portable power supply. One question tho... after wiring the BMS the charge and load ends of my bms are reading different voltages by about 1.8 volts different. The charge end was reading 24.8/9 volts and the load was at 23v. Any reason there is such a variation? Did I do something wrong?
They are both effective options for safe charging. The BMS is a little more convenient for me in most applications. It allows me to use a simple charger instead of a programmable balance charger, and also has automatic cutoff and safety limits for discharging. But it really depends on the application as to which is better.
Agree with eBikeSchool.com - The BMS protects the cell and cell groups from Over/Under charge, Short circuit and such. A Cell monitor is great to compare the cell groups during / between charges. As long as you have the BMS you can use nearly any voltage appropriate charger as long as you keep below the amperage of your battery. I use all three on the 3s1p and 4s1p, and have charged the 3s1p using solar with a charge controller, watching the cells with the cell monitor.
Hi. Very educational video. Thanks. Im trying to put together a battery pack for my motorcycle with each cell 2.1 amps. 5 rows in parallel and three cells in series to give 12.6 V fully charged at 10.5A. As Im a newbie, I do not know which BMS I should use and how to connect. your assistance if possible will be highly appreciated.
Hi Micah, great video! I ordered your book. I am working on making an e-motorcycle. I bought a 10KW 96V DC motor and now I am working on learning how to make the battery pack. I am hoping I am able to find a BMS system that will handle a 96V battery pack. Thanks!!
Hmmm, I'm thinking I'll hang those copper crimp tabs over the side and bend them for a clean flat surface area. Then I'll add crimp on post connectors and solder them for the BMS wires. Then they can go right under the nut with a loc washer.
In fact, I may connect everything with copper wire and those same crimp post connectors. Would take a little time, but I wouldn't care about not having the updated kit then. I would still use the kit connectors. Then do the wire on top of them with the post connectors.
Another Great Video!!!!!Would love to see some smaller applications for us DIYers. Most of the units or devices I build will see 3S/4S/5S/6S, and maybe adding a 2P. The BMS used on these applications would require soldering on the BMS. But I am really liking this idea 200%. Very Tempted in testing out for myself with the smaller applications. Of course I would have to be creative. But I really like this idea for safety reason! Edit: Is there anyway to get smaller kits. I would love to use these in my upcoming builds...: )
I first soldered the P-, B-, C- onto the battery. I continued hooking up the balance wires in the correct slots but in random order, then i noticed little smokes were coming out of the bms, but the battery pack were fine. Is there a pattern to install the wires from the BMS to the battery? I’m trying to find out what I did wrong. Unless it was a defective bms.
Thanks for this. I bought an Cao mm battery from ebay and it is not working after 1st cycle, i opened it up and see They connect the the LOAD - to the C- too. Did they do it wrong?
Well it seems triple checking was not enough! Although I connected all the balance wires in the correct sequence, I.e +1 +2 +3 ect and the black wire to the negative of the first cell, I started the sequence with +1 connected to cell 13 !! This happened because of how I was going to attach the BMS to the battery. I have now swapped it around and it all seems fine with a cool BMS. Another lesson learned! However I do not know if this mistake would have damaged the BMS? The charger is performing differently now also, it seems to cut in and out and the charge is building up which it wasn't doing the first time. I have never used an e-bike charger before so again I do not know if this is normal operation? I'll keep a close eye on things and see how it progresses. Thanks
What are great video very helpful I bought your book and I find it very interesting I really like getting into building batteries I'm not the best at doing it but your book is very helpful thank you very much keep up the great work
Great revolutionary work & videos. Thanks a lot. I have your BOOK. Inspired me to make my own Battery pack for a DRONE. Which Gauge silicon wire is suitable for 6S, 4P battery pack made out of 18650B ( Panasonic ). X60 connector is sufficient...???
I have a Wave ebike and I must use the battery metal box, have 2 dead batteries. How can I build the 48volt battery and get it to fit in the metal keyed box using their wired connections. I want to use, if possible the Vruzend connectors. I am uncomfortable in putting this together. Bought your book and the connectors. Can you help me? An old guy of 86 years. Ed G
Can you recommend 14 lead wire harness and where to purchase for the BMS connector? Two routes to go purchase all the parts to make my own wire harness or just buy the pins, tool for removal of pins and crimping tool.
Is it common to find the individual cells slightly out of balance after the first charge? I built a 10s3p pack and added the vruzend bms. The three cells closest to the positive terminal measure 4.22v and the others measure 4.18 or 4.17v.
Hello, I am hoping you could help me with this question. I made 3-24p 18650 battery packs, wired them in series to get 12v @ 60 ahs and added a 100amp BMS. Can I make a pack just like the one I mentions to acquire 120ahs? Thank you for your feed back. Have a nice day.
My question is about charging your setup. Do you the standard 2Amp charges sold on eBay/Amazon or go 5Amp for quicker charge time? Oh and what Voltage for both chargers? Nice BMS video looks easier than I thought. Labeling batteries during build helps.,🤔
Thanks for video how does this works the ballance wire connecting to every positive side of each parallel group really conect to negative end of next group as they all parallel group conect to the next positive to negative in series...
Great video..… but I am looking for a "Lithium Cell Charger Module (BMS) with Battery Protection board" that would output a 18V system..... any thoughts????
@@lorengameros3963 I'm not sure to be honest. After I wired everything up I was getting about 11v less from the discharge than the actual battery pack. It happened twice. It's 13s for a scooter.
What would happen if I don’t use a BMS? Could I just connect the positive and negative terminal into the connecter and then into in my case a transmitter and then camera? Also Do you have to have balance wires?
I just got into electric scooters and would love to be able to build my own 60volt replacement high quality battery, any ideas where to buy about 200 high end batteries. Thinking around 30ah,60volt, scooter is actually 58.8 volt.
I've got a question I haven't been able to find on the web site. Is this system compatible with the molicel p28a? It says they are 35a, and what I understand is this system is 20a. Do I need to find a different system or am I reading/understanding things wrong?
The terminal caps holder without spot welder function effectively usefull... no every country selling this parts... for example in jakarta indonesia even if online store local city.... wher i must to find the link buy this part important things in amazon... thx bro...
My bms has 14 wires and its for a 48v system, so the first black goes to the same cell that gets the big negative and also on the same cell the second wire and continue on connecting every other wire to only the positive of the cells right?
First black goes to same terminal on with the big negative wire, yes. The second balance wire goes to the opposite side of that same cell (the positive side). Then continue with the positive side of every cell until you run out of cells and balance wires. The last balance wire should land on the same terminal where you connect the big red discharge wire (and charge wire, actually).
Wonder can these 10s bms be used on 7s configurations ? someone in RUclips managed to use a 20s bms with his 14s pack not sure how he will know if it actually works
Thanks for the video - Book and Kit ordered. However for the application I have, I only need 12-14volts. Most of the quality BMS boards don't seem to cover this area. However, are you familiar with any - Application is for Ham Radio,
I'm trying to get into Ham radio radio myself... currently studying for the exam! You could build a 4s pack and use a 4s BMS from Aliexpress (I found a few there in a search) but you might also consider a 7s pack, which would be about 24V, then use a 7s BMS (much more commonly available) and a 24VDC to 12VDC stepdown converter. Also, you'll find 7s chargers more available as well, I believe.
It's tough to make a 12v battery with 18650 cells. The voltage range with 4s gets pretty high at the top. A lot of people use LiFePo in boats and RVs because the cells at 4s are in the 13v range. They are a little lower voltage and match up better to 12v systems. You might get hash, noise, with a basic DC/DC converter. MFJ makes some interesting boxes to boost voltage and to condition voltage with a bank of capacitors. With 100w SSB transmissions there are short peaks of power. Depends on the power output of the transmitter. There is always stuff on Ebay. Maybe Vruzend can carry some of the lower series protections boards. It's not great to have a small battery that could get run down below the safe level, more than anything. I think Vruzend would be super useful for small packs. And a lot of stuff you could just use a two dollar DCDC converter. www.ebay.com/itm/4S-16-8V-Li-ion-Lithium-18650-Battery-balance-Board-full-charge-Balance-Circuit-/122389198998?hash=item1c7ef6f896:g:x34AAOSwfVpYviYu
George - That is what I am building - either a 3S or 4S by 3 or 4P. Main goal is to have a slim battery to pair with the famous Yaesu FT-817nd radio. The radio only need 3amps but with a little extra you can run more - and do WSPR using the Wolfie Link and Android tablet.
love this channel, I'm interested in this battery connection style, however I have heard if one cell fails this will destroy all cells in series and then all cells in battery when charged... not fun, the solution is to have fuses to all cells. is this true, and does this battery system deal with this problem. thanks
I connected just the 14 red wires, not the BMS terminal wires (thick wires), and the BMS got hot, any reason why? Must the sequence of connecting the wires be followed exactly? I hope I didn't ruin my BMS.
i had a smart bms that i changed for a regular one because the connector didnt came with the battery , my problem is the B+ wire from the battery .. what do i do with it ,, my new bms has only C- P- and B- .. do you have a video already talking about that or a sugestion to give me to bypass the connector ,, i thought those problems would be out of the equation with a simplier bms but the B+ was hiden under the smart bms and unpleasant surprise to me when came the time to cut and replace the smart one with the already bought new simplier bms ,,it seems important because the current is still not going out of the battery to the bike everything is connected except that red wire .i m lost now i dont find any tip nowhere about this subject , a connector sold separately or else and spent too much money already to push the whole thing aside or find a new battery ,,sorry for my english i m french canadian hi hi thanks in advance
You put the bare balancing wire under the cell connection. I would not support this kind of installation. Did you think of krimping the balancing wires first?
I hooked up my BMS with bot meters on all 4 cells. It seem that the BMS is not charging the cells evenly. It is charging the cells from the outside cells in. Is that who is should work?
is a nice system I want to make a battery of 340 pieces Battery Model: 72 v 60Ah 17-parallel 20 series Capacity: 60AHSuit for motor: 72V 2000-6000W where can i buy them ?? am from the Netherlands a question which batteries can i use the best ??
I follow everything except for why you have two gold bar connections at each end. I don’t understand why there is twice as many as I am thinking there should be. Shouldn’t you only need one one each side?
could 2 of these 36 volt batteries made exactly like you did with the same bms configuration be wired together in parallel do achieve 72 volts battery pack with 17.5 ah battery pack cause parallel will double the voltage but not the amp hours correct or not or if I wanted to double the voltage and the amp hours then could I take 3 of these 36 volt 17.5ah batteries wire 2 in series and just add a 3rd one in parallel to make a 72volt 35 amp hour battery course I think they all have to be charged separately as 36 volt 17.5 ah battery would either one of these setups work and still be safe I want to have the most power and longest range with the smallest configuration and I feel confident building this 36 volt battery cause I can keep going back to the video for reassurances anyway from what I have read thus far it seems like both of these would be possible just need conformation thanks
You are the best person in the ebike community. This video provides much knowledge.
Great combo of voice-over and background music.
I think the best feature about this kit is 1. The air gap for cooling cells 2. Replacement of cells is possible and reusable parts are good for the environment.
bought the book however the videos help me come full circle
To prevent cold solder joints, heat the back side of the connector with the soldering tip and put the solder on the far side of the wire. This will ensure that all areas of the connection are hot enough to melt the solder for a solid solder joint.
Got to love this dude, All knowledge on this subject, loved the book and keep going strong.
No wonder you are so happy. your is the zone and giving away the answers. that books looks awesome!!!! I need one for Christmas for me...
Many thanks for your videos. I was quoted a lot of money for re celling my poor battery, so I have followed your videos and made one up using Vruzend system and bms. I’ve just come back from a 50% longer than usual ride and saddle sore☺️. It cost me half as much as re celling or buying a new lower capacity battery. The bonus is that I have had the pleasure of making it myself, and now understand the system. It’s 24v with four cells in parallel. Is that 7S4P? I’m going to increase it to six in parallel sometime soon. Your videos are clear and informative.
hey...I'm thinking of making my Tesla power wall. I m being seeing your video and they are great. but can you make one video of the next step or the gear wee need to charge the battery from solar and connect it to the house? thxs
Purchased a 10S BMS and had great communication from Micah whilst the BMS was on its way. After roughly 12 rides and charging cycles the eskate longboard stopped working. Narrowed the fault to the BMS and reached out to Micah for advice/support. That was three months ago. Very disappointed that there was no reply. Now I'm looking for a reliable BMS for my 10S 3P battery pack.
Hey bro.
I've just made my own 1000w 48v e-bike, but I've ran into some problems.
The bike kit is made for 48v, but i made a 55v (15s with 4 recycled 18650 batteries per cell) battery!
A lot of people said that almost all e-bike esc's can handle a few more cells, but doesn't that mean it pulls more amperage?
I found out that my 5 x 20a BMS'es in series setup wasn't powerful enough, so I bought five new 100a BMS'es. (Haven't installed them yet)
Now, I had to change out one cell (4 batteries) because after i had ran my bike for a while (unprotected, without a BMS), i felt that some of my batteries were getting hot, and wouldn't cool down.
When I checked the voltage the next day, all the 4 batteries were completely dead.
Most of the 4 batteries that is in parallel is the same brand, but the cells in series are different brands because they're recycled. (If you understand what I'm trying to say), but does it mean that I might have floored it too hard, and my batteries couldn't handle the amperage?
Should i maybe put on at least another battery on each cell, or is it because i ran it unprotected?
I'm thinking about rewiring the whole battery pack to 48v, and just add a single 48v BMS.
(Sorry for my shitty writing)
hello，i feel your video is very good,but i didn't know where to buy the facilities, such as mash welder, plastic protective casing.
So I bought your book about a week ago, haven't got thru it all yet but so far really good info. The one thing I'm confused about with BMSs though is, if I have a 3S30p battery, do I need thirty 3s BMS boards? Or would you treat each of the 30 cells in parallel as one and then only need three 3s BMS boards?
At 2:10 you crimp and solder the main wire to the negative side of the pack. Hos do you get such a big wire to solder to the plate? Also these plates are quite tricky to get them to actually "crimp" onto the wire. Got any tricks? I'm currently trying to attach an 8 awg wire to 3 crimp connectors on the negative side of the pack.
Hi Micah, great job, I realy love the idea off the terminal caps, but why don't you use a plastic bold and nut in between each 4 cells to keep the top and bottom off the pack together, so you also can use old cells or cells whitout the plactic cover, which do not fit tightly in your terminal caps. the bolds also prevent the pack from falling apart because of vibrations.
btw are you planning for a 16s BMS?
Very good video. Pl give link for your book.
I ordered a kit and will look into your book too. You mentioned it can be tricky to remove cells from the holders. Can you provide any pointers on how to facilitate this process? I would assume it begins with removal of the bus bars and disassembly of the individual cell elements. What is the best way then to slide the caps off? Another question, I'd like to fuse each cell with PTC resettable. Do you have a recommendation as to how this could be configured with the Vruzend system, perhaps by soldering onto bus strips?
What is the need for the BMS? Seeing a lot of videos that say don't use them. I'm new to the ebike's world and have little to no electronics experience. Do you cover BMS and other equipment more in depth in your book? Thanks for the videos btw
Yes, there's a whole chapter devoted to the pros and cons of BMSs. BMSs make charging much simpler, and also offer protections during charging and discharging. However the cheap quality ones can fail without you knowing, so its not a good idea to buy the cheapest quality ones (like anything in life...).
Hi, i am looking at the kit to be used in conjunction for a E-MTB build I am working on. I will need a flat section battery so may have to use silicon wire to connect the parallel packs. Looking at the build video I am concerned with the nuts shaking loose as you don't seem to be using any sort of anti-shake washer, nyloc nut or thread-lock. Having one of those nuts come loose later on after the pack has been shrink wrapped would not be good. Also, i can see there might be an issue with the crimping only option of the tails connectors. I can see the only option is soldering for these which is ok. I have considered a non-insulated nickel crimp lug then bolting to the battery post but am thinking that the length of the post may not be long enough. In concept, a very good idea and I am very impressed. What are your thoughts on the points? Many thanks for your time, Mark
I don’t know if you already have but if not
I recommend you to do this in Spanish, I’m talking about the books any way bro thanks a lot this video is very helpful
I just got your DIY book, its great. I also just ordered two 36v BMS's from VRUZEND.com.
My question is, I have a FOCBOX (VESC) controller on my 10s4p skateboard, do I still need to run the discharge of the battery through the BMS or is that handled by the FOCBOX? My friends say not to discharge through the BMS.
Bought and love your book. Half way through. Awesome safety section! Should be required reading for anyone building a pack. Question. If I have 100 18650 cells (new LG) and want to build a pack to run an inverter for a fridge (120VAC, 80 watts continuous, 700 watts start up or so). What's the safest pack configuration in general? Is there a general rule of thumb? I live in Hawaii so worried about heat where we are going to place the battery. Thanks!
Thanks! I'd recommend a 14s7p with a 48VDC to 110VAC inverter, if you can find one, or a 7s14p with a 24VDC to 110VAC inverter, which may be easier to source.
Regarding balance wires to positive terminals - Aren't the + and - electrically connected due to the series connections anyway?
So the p- (blue) is basically your negative discharge wire and the c- (black) is the negative charge wire and it goes with the positive red charge wire?
Hey man thanks for the thorough walkthrough. I used your kit to build my 7s7p pack for a portable power supply. One question tho... after wiring the BMS the charge and load ends of my bms are reading different voltages by about 1.8 volts different. The charge end was reading 24.8/9 volts and the load was at 23v. Any reason there is such a variation? Did I do something wrong?
Great video. Can you comment on why you choose a BMS over a hobby charger and cell monitor?
They are both effective options for safe charging. The BMS is a little more convenient for me in most applications. It allows me to use a simple charger instead of a programmable balance charger, and also has automatic cutoff and safety limits for discharging. But it really depends on the application as to which is better.
Agree with eBikeSchool.com - The BMS protects the cell and cell groups from Over/Under charge, Short circuit and such. A Cell monitor is great to compare the cell groups during / between charges. As long as you have the BMS you can use nearly any voltage appropriate charger as long as you keep below the amperage of your battery.
I use all three on the 3s1p and 4s1p, and have charged the 3s1p using solar with a charge controller, watching the cells with the cell monitor.
Hi. Very educational video. Thanks. Im trying to put together a battery pack for my motorcycle with each cell 2.1 amps. 5 rows in parallel and three cells in series to give 12.6 V fully charged at 10.5A. As Im a newbie, I do not know which BMS I should use and how to connect. your assistance if possible will be highly appreciated.
Hi. What is the Load cable for? And where it go conected?
Im new on ebikes jaja.
Thanks.
Hi Micah, great video! I ordered your book. I am working on making an e-motorcycle. I bought a 10KW 96V DC motor and now I am working on learning how to make the battery pack. I am hoping I am able to find a BMS system that will handle a 96V battery pack. Thanks!!
I'm so curious as to how this went @hgutierr
Hmmm, I'm thinking I'll hang those copper crimp tabs over the side and bend them for a clean flat surface area. Then I'll add crimp on post connectors and solder them for the BMS wires. Then they can go right under the nut with a loc washer.
In fact, I may connect everything with copper wire and those same crimp post connectors. Would take a little time, but I wouldn't care about not having the updated kit then. I would still use the kit connectors. Then do the wire on top of them with the post connectors.
Another Great Video!!!!!Would love to see some smaller applications for us DIYers. Most of the units or devices I build will see 3S/4S/5S/6S, and maybe adding a 2P. The BMS used on these applications would require soldering on the BMS. But I am really liking this idea 200%. Very Tempted in testing out for myself with the smaller applications. Of course I would have to be creative. But I really like this idea for safety reason!
Edit: Is there anyway to get smaller kits. I would love to use these in my upcoming builds...: )
I first soldered the P-, B-, C- onto the battery. I continued hooking up the balance wires in the correct slots but in random order, then i noticed little smokes were coming out of the bms, but the battery pack were fine. Is there a pattern to install the wires from the BMS to the battery? I’m trying to find out what I did wrong. Unless it was a defective bms.
Thanks for this. I bought an Cao mm battery from ebay and it is not working after 1st cycle, i opened it up and see They connect the the LOAD - to the C- too. Did they do it wrong?
Well it seems triple checking was not enough! Although I connected all the balance wires in the correct sequence, I.e +1 +2 +3 ect and the black wire to the negative of the first cell, I started the sequence with +1 connected to cell 13 !! This happened because of how I was going to attach the BMS to the battery. I have now swapped it around and it all seems fine with a cool BMS.
Another lesson learned!
However I do not know if this mistake would have damaged the BMS? The charger is performing differently now also, it seems to cut in and out and the charge is building up which it wasn't doing the first time. I have never used an e-bike charger before so again I do not know if this is normal operation? I'll keep a close eye on things and see how it progresses.
Thanks
Just got your book to support your hard work. Thanks
Are these available for 26650 batteries?
Thanks for sharing
Hello thanks for sharing beneficial videos, i have a quastion that i want to build 24v 24ah battery for my e bike which bms i should choose ?
Is it also possible to charge through p - and p+ ? So not the charge plug but the + and - clamps you find on your e bike battery.
What are great video very helpful I bought your book and I find it very interesting I really like getting into building batteries I'm not the best at doing it but your book is very helpful thank you very much keep up the great work
Great revolutionary work & videos. Thanks a lot.
I have your BOOK. Inspired me to make my own Battery pack for a DRONE.
Which Gauge silicon wire is suitable for 6S, 4P battery pack made out of 18650B ( Panasonic ).
X60 connector is sufficient...???
I must admit I'm confused. Ive built batteries before... Surely the pack negative terminal and the negative discharge terminal are the same terminal?
I have a Wave ebike and I must use the battery metal box, have 2 dead batteries. How can I build the 48volt battery and get it to fit in the metal keyed box using their wired connections. I want to use, if possible the Vruzend connectors. I am uncomfortable in putting this together. Bought your book and the connectors. Can you help me? An old guy of 86 years. Ed G
Can you recommend 14 lead wire harness and where to purchase for the BMS connector? Two routes to go purchase all the parts to make my own wire harness or just buy the pins, tool for removal of pins and crimping tool.
Hello I noticed you used 14 gauge for discharge,,,,what wire gauge do we use for charge...Thanx
Is it common to find the individual cells slightly out of balance after the first charge? I built a 10s3p pack and added the vruzend bms. The three cells closest to the positive terminal measure 4.22v and the others measure 4.18 or 4.17v.
Hello, I am hoping you could help me with this question. I made 3-24p 18650 battery packs, wired them in series to get 12v @ 60 ahs and added a 100amp BMS. Can I make a pack just like the one I mentions to acquire 120ahs? Thank you for your feed back. Have a nice day.
Do you have any view or recommendations on Smart (Bluetooth) BMS's, so you can get a view of what's going on inside the battery case on your phone?
My question is about charging your setup. Do you the standard 2Amp charges sold on eBay/Amazon or go 5Amp for quicker charge time? Oh and what Voltage for both chargers? Nice BMS video looks easier than I thought. Labeling batteries during build helps.,🤔
I have a video all about charging, I'd recommend going back and checking that one out
Thanks for video how does this works the ballance wire connecting to every positive side of each parallel group really conect to negative end of next group as they all parallel group conect to the next positive to negative in series...
I would prefer to connect the balance wires with small round crimping terminal to prevent against vibration.
Great video..… but I am looking for a "Lithium Cell Charger Module (BMS) with Battery Protection board" that would output a 18V system..... any thoughts????
Hi there, Do you know of a small BMS the does balance for 3s packs only about 1 amp charge, cheers great videos Brett
Yea there are tons of those on aliexpress.com
Is there a smart BMS you can recommend for a 52v Vruzend battery? I’d love to make a Vruzend battery and be able to monitor the cells on my phone
how much per pack like that,- power and cost?
Is there a certain order you have to connect the wires?? I've killed 2 BMS now because there's no instructions 😖
How did you kill the BMS?
@@lorengameros3963 I'm not sure to be honest. After I wired everything up I was getting about 11v less from the discharge than the actual battery pack. It happened twice. It's 13s for a scooter.
What would happen if I don’t use a BMS? Could I just connect the positive and negative terminal into the connecter and then into in my case a transmitter and then camera? Also Do you have to have balance wires?
I see that your using a 12g wire for the positive discharge and a 10g for the negative discharge. Is that correct?
Poking to build 26v 10s battery pack? How many total batteries do I need? 50? Can you make a video showing how to build a 36v pack?
Do you have or can you make a video of how much it costs to build our own Ebike battery?
I just got into electric scooters and would love to be able to build my own 60volt replacement high quality battery, any ideas where to buy about 200 high end batteries. Thinking around 30ah,60volt, scooter is actually 58.8 volt.
Try R S components.
I've got a question I haven't been able to find on the web site. Is this system compatible with the molicel p28a? It says they are 35a, and what I understand is this system is 20a. Do I need to find a different system or am I reading/understanding things wrong?
The terminal caps holder without spot welder function effectively usefull... no every country selling this parts... for example in jakarta indonesia even if online store local city.... wher i must to find the link buy this part important things in amazon... thx bro...
Wanted to know what kind of BMS voltage you needed for qty. 4 , 12 volt batteries? Thanks
My bms has 14 wires and its for a 48v system, so the first black goes to the same cell that gets the big negative and also on the same cell the second wire and continue on connecting every other wire to only the positive of the cells right?
First black goes to same terminal on with the big negative wire, yes. The second balance wire goes to the opposite side of that same cell (the positive side). Then continue with the positive side of every cell until you run out of cells and balance wires. The last balance wire should land on the same terminal where you connect the big red discharge wire (and charge wire, actually).
Thanks a lot! I actually dos one ando the bms got Hot, so ended re-doing as you dos, ando everything seems yo be fine, thanks again
Does it matter is the wires go in sequence as long as they all go to a positive group
Wonder can these 10s bms be used on 7s configurations ? someone in RUclips managed to use a 20s bms with his 14s pack not sure how he will know if it actually works
So am I right in saying your battery is 10s 5p ? So you don't need a bms for the 5p only the 10s ?
I ordered your book. It was about 17 dollars on amazon. It's a good book but I found a couple spelling mistakes.
Hello sir can u send the softcopy of Ultimate DIY book as it doesn't show in our country
What BMS I buy for a 3s6p pack using m26 cells ? And vruzend kit ?
Hi. How do you install bms if you powerbank 2s3p ? U got subs.
Is there a space to solder battery meter on this BMS? I am using Downtube (Hailong battery case and my battery is 11.6ah made of Panasonic 26PF)
Thanks for the video - Book and Kit ordered. However for the application I have, I only need 12-14volts. Most of the quality BMS boards don't seem to cover this area. However, are you familiar with any - Application is for Ham Radio,
I'm trying to get into Ham radio radio myself... currently studying for the exam! You could build a 4s pack and use a 4s BMS from Aliexpress (I found a few there in a search) but you might also consider a 7s pack, which would be about 24V, then use a 7s BMS (much more commonly available) and a 24VDC to 12VDC stepdown converter. Also, you'll find 7s chargers more available as well, I believe.
It's tough to make a 12v battery with 18650 cells. The voltage range with 4s gets pretty high at the top. A lot of people use LiFePo in boats and RVs because the cells at 4s are in the 13v range. They are a little lower voltage and match up better to 12v systems. You might get hash, noise, with a basic DC/DC converter. MFJ makes some interesting boxes to boost voltage and to condition voltage with a bank of capacitors. With 100w SSB transmissions there are short peaks of power. Depends on the power output of the transmitter.
There is always stuff on Ebay. Maybe Vruzend can carry some of the lower series protections boards. It's not great to have a small battery that could get run down below the safe level, more than anything. I think Vruzend would be super useful for small packs. And a lot of stuff you could just use a two dollar DCDC converter.
www.ebay.com/itm/4S-16-8V-Li-ion-Lithium-18650-Battery-balance-Board-full-charge-Balance-Circuit-/122389198998?hash=item1c7ef6f896:g:x34AAOSwfVpYviYu
George is right. That's why 7s with a step down converter might be best
George - That is what I am building - either a 3S or 4S by 3 or 4P. Main goal is to have a slim battery to pair with the famous Yaesu FT-817nd radio. The radio only need 3amps but with a little extra you can run more - and do WSPR using the Wolfie Link and Android tablet.
The 7s would be great for a 50-100watt station. And really due to the draw - required.
love this channel, I'm interested in this battery connection style, however I have heard if one cell fails this will destroy all cells in series and then all cells in battery when charged... not fun, the solution is to have fuses to all cells. is this true, and does this battery system deal with this problem.
thanks
I mean.... he has bms on it, so it wont destroy other batteries
I just bought and read your book. great read!
Thanks for your support!
Just bought your book. So far very well written, but I found a typo: "some ->time
would be nice after soldering showing the voltage value. so your followers can check and compare if they did everything right!
Great sir, I like ur video, please make a 60v-30ah lifepo4 battery pack with clearly show install BMS with rate of per call
I connected just the 14 red wires, not the BMS terminal wires (thick wires), and the BMS got hot, any reason why? Must the sequence of connecting the wires be followed exactly? I hope I didn't ruin my BMS.
Would this BMS work for my 14s12p 51.8v battery pack i built?? I'm new to this... Could you recommend a good charger?
Hi just want to ask if 38120 cells made by headway is reliable for ebike use. TIA.
my bms has like 17 wires for series. im only going to have like 11 series. do i NEED to use each wire? will the bms still work correctly?
also my bms does not have a P- , do i need that? instead it has like an extra connecttor with 3 prongs
Mike can u tell me a good Bms. I'm going to build a 24 volt 7p. 7s for my bike and I want to put a Bms on it thank you
i had a smart bms that i changed for a regular one because the connector didnt came with the battery , my problem is the B+ wire from the battery .. what do i do with it ,, my new bms has only C- P- and B- .. do you have a video already talking about that or a sugestion to give me to bypass the connector ,, i thought those problems would be out of the equation with a simplier bms but the B+ was hiden under the smart bms and unpleasant surprise to me when came the time to cut and replace the smart one with the already bought new simplier bms ,,it seems important because the current is still not going out of the battery to the bike everything is connected except that red wire .i m lost now i dont find any tip nowhere about this subject , a connector sold separately or else and spent too much money already to push the whole thing aside or find a new battery ,,sorry for my english i m french canadian hi hi thanks in advance
You put the bare balancing wire under the cell connection. I would not support this kind of installation. Did you think of krimping the balancing wires first?
does upgrading bms amps from 20 to 30a without changing battery increase power?
I hooked up my BMS with bot meters on all 4 cells. It seem that the BMS is not charging the cells evenly. It is charging the cells from the outside cells in. Is that who is should work?
can i use a 13s on my DIY 12v lithium of 6cells? and whats the connection, i got the BMS from self balancing scooter
From where do you buy vruzend solderless kit
What size copper wire should I use when building a 110amp battery?
Is it possible to charge and discharge an ebike battery at the same connector?
is a nice system
I want to make a battery
of 340 pieces Battery Model: 72 v 60Ah
17-parallel 20 series
Capacity: 60AHSuit for motor: 72V 2000-6000W
where can i buy them ??
am from the Netherlands
a question which batteries
can i use the best ??
Where can I get a 1S wire 🤔
I follow everything except for why you have two gold bar connections at each end. I don’t understand why there is twice as many as I am thinking there should be. Shouldn’t you only need one one each side?
I have 3s10p 18650 batteries every 3s=12v now is I have to connect a bms with only with positive end of every series or series and parallel both
Hello, I would like to assembly pile 24 pouch to make a battery. Could I have some advices please. Its new for me.
Thank you very much
Battery volt recommend 72V will 20-100Ah.
Which one; the best BMC bord model is available in Bangladesh.
.
i was wondering if it's possible to build a 72v pack with the kit?
WELL DONE MY FRIEND
I noticed Vruzend does not sell 7s BmS any recommendations you can give?
could 2 of these 36 volt batteries made exactly like you did with the same bms configuration be wired together in parallel do achieve 72 volts battery pack with 17.5 ah battery pack cause parallel will double the voltage but not the amp hours correct or not or if I wanted to double the voltage and the amp hours then could I take 3 of these 36 volt 17.5ah batteries wire 2 in series and just add a 3rd one in parallel to make a 72volt 35 amp hour battery course I think they all have to be charged separately as 36 volt 17.5 ah battery would either one of these setups work and still be safe I want to have the most power and longest range with the smallest configuration and I feel confident building this 36 volt battery cause I can keep going back to the video for reassurances anyway from what I have read thus far it seems like both of these would be possible just need conformation thanks