Hello...i have a question... I make also same battery pack you made and same bms, but i make only 5p.If i connect only the discharge current of the battery pack i made to my original battery pack of my scooter as parallel, this will charge the also the battery pack i make if i charge the scooter?
Good question.. this is depends from the BMS, don't look that some BMS are exactly the same, they can be completely different.. to be sure you must discharge and charge the battery and see if the board can work like same port from the C- pin of the board... (not from P- pin)
Is the "rated output" of the BMS the continuous and the "max output" the peak rating? Because you have a 60A pack, so I would guess the two numbers you gave were a constant and peak discharge rating for the BMS and then your controller is probably somewhat less than that? Or equal to? Not sure if people put super powerful controllers on and just let the BMS prevent them from pulling too much but that seems like it would lead to a bad bad time to have the BMS cut off while you're climbing a hill. I guess if the controller is programmable you could limit it to match your BMS/pack.
Looks like you're using 12AWG for the main output cables? Could be 10AWG but it seems a bit thin for the load you're specing this bike at. I know 12AWG silicone is capable of much higher amperage than THHN or any PVC insulated wire but I see most builders stay conservative and give some headroom with the main discharge cables. 50A would get those pretty warm if it could be maintained for a while but even some hard riding at 30-35A would be pretty stressful for this pack. Don't get me wrong this is a very very well built pack, it is insanely clean, looks like a machine made it I just would have gone with slightly thicker nickel (but you do have 6 series connections so you'd be ok with 0.15mm which is what I think you're using) and I would have probably used some 2P nickel on the pos and neg to have the other side of the H lay on the edge of the cell holders and just solder a 10AWG to that part of the nickel. Maybe you don't intend for this pack to get pushed hard at all, its just capable of that.
Hello, thank you for sharing your knowledge through your YT channel. May I ask if the batteries should be in any particular 'state of charge' before spot welding the assembly? That is, should they be fully or partially charged? Should they be of equal charge? Thank you again.
Hi. I really enjoyed the video. I have two questions, why did you connect 6 and 12 in parallel with a nickel plate? Also, why did you solder the input wiring 3 times? I'd really appreciate it if you could answer.
Everything excellent. The only stop I would do additionally is rap the pack in gold electrical insulator tape and side insulators to prevent get damage on the battery for vibrations or friction. Also I like to add an additional active BMS. Thanks for the video.
@@EVCustoms Unless they are in bad shape, not. I will turn it on every few uses or as soon as the pack go out of balance. I like to use the smart active balancers so I can monitoring the cells on my cellphone. You can get a really nice BMS like JK ones or Daly and have built in active balancer.
Very Informative! I want to know how can we detect a weak cell and a weak weld in the module? If we measure the voltage across the grouped cell it would give us the normal readings (because parallel). Same with resistance. So is there any way to detect that?
Tell me you have ADHD without telling me you have ADHD😂. Super neat build though. Thats exactly how every battery manufacturer should manufacture batteries. Most of them dont pay much attention on manufacturing especially like what we see here. And thus the batteries often malfunction,or worse ,catch fire. I would trust this guy with my life . As an Electronics Engineer,this was so satisfying to watch 👍🏻
Can an escooter's controller use 14s6p 52v 20ah battery when original battery is 48v 20ah 13s6p battery? Or must series and parallels be same or something?
That would depend on the control unit and you would have to check it out (Google it!) beforehand. Without knowing that, you could potentially fry it since it's one cell higher i capacity (3.7V, 4.2V when charging). Most units would probably be able to handle a bit of overvoltage, if and when you add another cell you're pushing the threshold a bit further and it may just be enough to break it if it's only rated for 56.4V (Which is the charge voltage for 48V). As for the capacity (the "P"), you can add as many cells in parallel you want.
I was checking out your site. Do you sell battery packs? I started a solar e-bike channel made two solar setups and after going broke till next month I'm stuck with 7.5Ah battery packs advertised as 30Ah :(. I trust you would make an honest battery.
Du hast nicht ganz verstanden, wozu die runden Isolierringe sind. Und das der Aderquerschnitt vom Ladekabel dicker ist, als der P- Anschluss. Oh je...Dann mal viel Spaß damit.
This means output current of the battery is 3 times the capacity of the battery, so if we have 10Ah 36V battery pack, from this pack we can take safely 30Ah at the output..
Nice visual presentation. I do like your soldering technique on those wires. .. .. but BMS isn't needed. It has nothing to do with how you wired those balance wires but in reality the use of these BMSs don't actually work as advertised or how we have been taught in science. When the cells get joined in series and parallels as a pack they all get self-balanced even without the BMS. One thing the BMS will do is to discharge the battery on the negative and positive terminals while charging. It will spend more time charging because of this. There are a ton of disadvantages using the BMS but I won't mention them here cause it would take pages to cover that. I don't mean to offend you as you make great videos and take pride of your work but really, BMS isn't needed.
Hi, thanks mate. I agree with you on some points, yes on high capacity batteries you will have good balance, but only with brand batteries like Samsung LG Panasonic, again you need something to disconnect your battery from the load on low voltage, to not destroy the battery, you know that but other people didn't know when they must to stop discharge, to control it.
I have a 20s20p battery that I've built myself for my bike. 400 Samsung 30q cells bought new from reputable dealer. I've bought the smart bms from icgogo that everyone recommends when building a pack. When it got cold outside I parked the bike with just above half a charge in my storage that is at room temperature all the time to wait for warmer days to ride. Two months later I got an itch in my ass to check the bike,so i turn the key and nothing happened. Turns out that the bms balanced my battery to death and drained it to 12v. Nothing else is connected directly to the battery besides the bms. Everything else is connected after the contactor. I've managed to bring the battery back slowly to normal voltage using a bench power supply,not tested it yet on the bike but i think everything is ok because it's sitting at the same voltage for quite some time now. And the sad part is that i didn't even need the bms, I've done 3500km of really hard riding with the bike fully discharging then charging the battery to 84v with fast charger every 80km,so that's 40-45 cycles and the cells were never out of balance,i would check vigorously over the Bluetooth to see how the pack is doing,i was paranoid because it was the first big battery pack I've built. And every time they were perfectly balanced. So the next build I'm doing will definitely not have a bms connected to the pack,ill hook it up maybe once a year to check if the pack is out of balance. And I've seen a lot of similar stories online and a lot of them ended with a dead battery pack or even a house fire. And when i look at it now it doesn't even make sense to connect 30€ of crappy chinese electronics to a 1000€+ battery. It just doesn't. I wonder why no one filled that void in the market and produced a bms that actually works. It would sell like hot cakes in diy market.
@@Americadoe it will discharge the parallel group of cells on the positive and negative terminals through the resistor on the bms. But the resistors are so tiny and they can dissipate an insignificant amount of power so they can't balance one cell while charging let alone 5 or 10 connected in parallel. The only way to balance a pack with a chinese bms is to set it to balance manually after the charging,and it probably takes ages because their balancing current is pathetic.
This can take a lot of time, but you can salvage 18650s from things. I don't remember what it is, but there are these things you can buy for like a dollar a piece and have six cells in them. That catch is one or two are usually dead, that's why you're salvaging them. This is what I did anyway
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi, I didn't quite understand how the bms is applied. Where can I find a diagram? Greetings from Naples Thank you
Hello
What is the thickness of the BMS board cables in AWG?
Hi... this wires is 0.45mm or 24AWG..
@@EVCustoms
Thank you very much
Hello...i have a question... I make also same battery pack you made and same bms, but i make only 5p.If i connect only the discharge current of the battery pack i made to my original battery pack of my scooter as parallel, this will charge the also the battery pack i make if i charge the scooter?
Good question.. this is depends from the BMS, don't look that some BMS are exactly the same, they can be completely different.. to be sure you must discharge and charge the battery and see if the board can work like same port from the C- pin of the board... (not from P- pin)
What is the approximate cost to build one? Cost of materials? Thanks
25$-40$
Is the "rated output" of the BMS the continuous and the "max output" the peak rating? Because you have a 60A pack, so I would guess the two numbers you gave were a constant and peak discharge rating for the BMS and then your controller is probably somewhat less than that? Or equal to? Not sure if people put super powerful controllers on and just let the BMS prevent them from pulling too much but that seems like it would lead to a bad bad time to have the BMS cut off while you're climbing a hill. I guess if the controller is programmable you could limit it to match your BMS/pack.
Looks like you're using 12AWG for the main output cables? Could be 10AWG but it seems a bit thin for the load you're specing this bike at. I know 12AWG silicone is capable of much higher amperage than THHN or any PVC insulated wire but I see most builders stay conservative and give some headroom with the main discharge cables. 50A would get those pretty warm if it could be maintained for a while but even some hard riding at 30-35A would be pretty stressful for this pack. Don't get me wrong this is a very very well built pack, it is insanely clean, looks like a machine made it I just would have gone with slightly thicker nickel (but you do have 6 series connections so you'd be ok with 0.15mm which is what I think you're using) and I would have probably used some 2P nickel on the pos and neg to have the other side of the H lay on the edge of the cell holders and just solder a 10AWG to that part of the nickel. Maybe you don't intend for this pack to get pushed hard at all, its just capable of that.
Hello, thank you for sharing your knowledge through your YT channel. May I ask if the batteries should be in any particular 'state of charge' before spot welding the assembly? That is, should they be fully or partially charged? Should they be of equal charge? Thank you again.
Hi friend.. is no matter if the batteries are at full state or discharged, they must be at same voltage state before spot welding..
Hi. I really enjoyed the video. I have two questions, why did you connect 6 and 12 in parallel with a nickel plate? Also, why did you solder the input wiring 3 times? I'd really appreciate it if you could answer.
Wow the best of the best DIY. Where did you buy the battery and the BMS?
Hello friend.. bms from ebay and batteries from NKON (europ)
It is ok if the battery is not new and asorted but still 18650 to build battery pack like this?
Good job. What welder you are using?
Hi.. SEQURE SQ-SW1, I have link on description.
What are brand of batteries? And how to buy these battery sir , thz
How long that the battery takes on the charger
Hola disculpa quee soldado de puntos recomiendas
Everything excellent. The only stop I would do additionally is rap the pack in gold electrical insulator tape and side insulators to prevent get damage on the battery for vibrations or friction. Also I like to add an additional active BMS. Thanks for the video.
What do you mean "additional" active BMS?
@@mct8888 I meant, Active Balancer if the current BMS does not have one.
@@DroneSurf Ahhh got it. Yes, that would prevent many potential challenges down the road.
One question... if you will have active balancer on your battery pack you will have it always ON?
@@EVCustoms Unless they are in bad shape, not. I will turn it on every few uses or as soon as the pack go out of balance. I like to use the smart active balancers so I can monitoring the cells on my cellphone. You can get a really nice BMS like JK ones or Daly and have built in active balancer.
So how is the housing market where you live because I would like to have you as a neighbor .
🤔😆😁😄
what brand of battery did you use/??
Brand name-BAK
Very Informative!
I want to know how can we detect a weak cell and a weak weld in the module? If we measure the voltage across the grouped cell it would give us the normal readings (because parallel). Same with resistance. So is there any way to detect that?
So satisfiying to watch bro such a clean job (y)
Thank you mate... this build is not from my cleanest work 😄, it is about 6.5 from 10.
Impressive! My freind can you tell me whats the safe range that cells should be within do they have to be completely balanced ?
*From the bent tip of the soldering iron, a battery pack is created😁*
Tell me you have ADHD without telling me you have ADHD😂.
Super neat build though. Thats exactly how every battery manufacturer should manufacture batteries. Most of them dont pay much attention on manufacturing especially like what we see here.
And thus the batteries often malfunction,or worse ,catch fire.
I would trust this guy with my life .
As an Electronics Engineer,this was so satisfying to watch 👍🏻
Thank you mate!😄
Can an escooter's controller use 14s6p 52v 20ah battery when original battery is 48v 20ah 13s6p battery? Or must series and parallels be same or something?
That would depend on the control unit and you would have to check it out (Google it!) beforehand. Without knowing that, you could potentially fry it since it's one cell higher i capacity (3.7V, 4.2V when charging). Most units would probably be able to handle a bit of overvoltage, if and when you add another cell you're pushing the threshold a bit further and it may just be enough to break it if it's only rated for 56.4V (Which is the charge voltage for 48V).
As for the capacity (the "P"), you can add as many cells in parallel you want.
I was checking out your site. Do you sell battery packs? I started a solar e-bike channel made two solar setups and after going broke till next month I'm stuck with 7.5Ah battery packs advertised as 30Ah :(. I trust you would make an honest battery.
I put the BMS wiring below the green paper. I touhht it protecs the wiring better
Better is to put green paper below and top on BMS wires..
Dobre spracované video, super práca, ďakujem 👍🇸🇰👍
Hi ,i make now same battery pack 13s,6p, with 3400 mah batterys. Enough one bms with 35 a? Like this what u use, im buyed from AliExpress.
To know that you must tell me firs about your vehicle rated power .
@@EVCustoms 48v 250w , originally have 4x 12v acid Aku 12amp
BM-BLW 48v 250w blue one :)
@@FlorianTakacsBest option for you is 25A BMS
@@EVCustoms Ty maestro, than i buy 25A !
awesome build !
Very nice, thank you!
Thank you mate!!
Where is the c- used for?
Charging input (negative pole)
What is the C connection?
Charging port t
Du hast nicht ganz verstanden, wozu die runden Isolierringe sind. Und das der Aderquerschnitt vom Ladekabel dicker ist, als der P- Anschluss. Oh je...Dann mal viel Spaß damit.
Can someone tell me what is 3c in discharge current means
This means output current of the battery is 3 times the capacity of the battery, so if we have 10Ah 36V battery pack, from this pack we can take safely 30Ah at the output..
where is your kapton tape?>
you very good for creat battery i like you 👍👍❤❤
good work.tks for share
Nice visual presentation. I do like your soldering technique on those wires. .. .. but BMS isn't needed. It has nothing to do with how you wired those balance wires but in reality the use of these BMSs don't actually work as advertised or how we have been taught in science. When the cells get joined in series and parallels as a pack they all get self-balanced even without the BMS. One thing the BMS will do is to discharge the battery on the negative and positive terminals while charging. It will spend more time charging because of this. There are a ton of disadvantages using the BMS but I won't mention them here cause it would take pages to cover that. I don't mean to offend you as you make great videos and take pride of your work but really, BMS isn't needed.
Hi, thanks mate. I agree with you on some points, yes on high capacity batteries you will have good balance, but only with brand batteries like Samsung LG Panasonic, again you need something to disconnect your battery from the load on low voltage, to not destroy the battery, you know that but other people didn't know when they must to stop discharge, to control it.
What do you mean the BMS will discharge the battery on the negative and positive terminals while charging? Discharge to where or what?
I have a 20s20p battery that I've built myself for my bike. 400 Samsung 30q cells bought new from reputable dealer. I've bought the smart bms from icgogo that everyone recommends when building a pack. When it got cold outside I parked the bike with just above half a charge in my storage that is at room temperature all the time to wait for warmer days to ride. Two months later I got an itch in my ass to check the bike,so i turn the key and nothing happened. Turns out that the bms balanced my battery to death and drained it to 12v. Nothing else is connected directly to the battery besides the bms. Everything else is connected after the contactor. I've managed to bring the battery back slowly to normal voltage using a bench power supply,not tested it yet on the bike but i think everything is ok because it's sitting at the same voltage for quite some time now. And the sad part is that i didn't even need the bms, I've done 3500km of really hard riding with the bike fully discharging then charging the battery to 84v with fast charger every 80km,so that's 40-45 cycles and the cells were never out of balance,i would check vigorously over the Bluetooth to see how the pack is doing,i was paranoid because it was the first big battery pack I've built. And every time they were perfectly balanced.
So the next build I'm doing will definitely not have a bms connected to the pack,ill hook it up maybe once a year to check if the pack is out of balance. And I've seen a lot of similar stories online and a lot of them ended with a dead battery pack or even a house fire. And when i look at it now it doesn't even make sense to connect 30€ of crappy chinese electronics to a 1000€+ battery. It just doesn't. I wonder why no one filled that void in the market and produced a bms that actually works. It would sell like hot cakes in diy market.
@@Americadoe it will discharge the parallel group of cells on the positive and negative terminals through the resistor on the bms. But the resistors are so tiny and they can dissipate an insignificant amount of power so they can't balance one cell while charging let alone 5 or 10 connected in parallel. The only way to balance a pack with a chinese bms is to set it to balance manually after the charging,and it probably takes ages because their balancing current is pathetic.
.mag kano.po an.isangbox
Perfect job.
Thank tou mate..!!
Навіщо ж так якісно робити?клієнтів не буде потім на ремонт 😂👍
Music way too loud
👏👏👏👏👏👏
Traducere
This is absolutely pointless. For the price you pay to get enough 18650 batteries you could buy the ebike battery
😂 retard. Ready made batteries are trash mostly.
Buy directly in China then.
This can take a lot of time, but you can salvage 18650s from things. I don't remember what it is, but there are these things you can buy for like a dollar a piece and have six cells in them. That catch is one or two are usually dead, that's why you're salvaging them. This is what I did anyway
That's no fun
Live a little.
Learn something.